What are the pathological symptoms of nutrient deficiency in Clivia?
Clivia is a precious indoor ornamental flower. Clivia is easy to cultivate, but improper management can lead to failure to bloom, or even poor plant growth. Therefore, rational fertilization is one of the important conditions for growing Clivia well. According to observation and research, when Clivia lacks nutrient elements, it shows the following symptoms: when deficient in nitrogen
Clivia is a precious indoor ornamental flower. Clivia is easy to cultivate, but improper management can lead to failure to bloom, or even poor plant growth. Therefore, rational fertilization is one of the important conditions for growing Clivia well.
According to observation and research, when Clivia lacks nutrient elements, it shows the following symptoms:
When deficient in nitrogen, the plant grows short and weak; the old leaves turn pale green, and in cases of severe nitrogen deficiency the old leaves turn yellow and develop red pigmentation, and the old leaves at the base gradually die from the bottom upward; new leaves, flowers and fruits become noticeably smaller.
When deficient in phosphorus, plant growth is inhibited, the leaves turn dark grayish-green mixed with purple pigmentation; the leaves become slender, the basal leaves gradually turn yellow and die, and the stem is short and thin.
When deficient in potassium, small yellow spots appear on the leaves, the leaf tips turn yellow first, then the yellowing spreads along the leaf margins toward the base, and the leaves gradually dry up and turn yellow; in severe cases the mesophyll tissue between the veins also dries up and dies; the plant is short with short internodes; the symptoms first appear on the old leaves at the base.
When deficient in calcium, the root tips of the plant are damaged and die. The root system rots easily, the young leaves cannot expand and appear thread-like, and plant growth stagnates.
When deficient in sulfur, the plant suffers from chlorosis, the leaf veins turn yellow, and the young leaves at the top are affected earlier than the old leaves; the leaves become slender and growth is slow.
When deficient in manganese, the middle and upper leaves become chlorotic, the leaf veins remain green, but the mesophyll shows small yellow spots, and in severe cases brownish small spots form and the leaves become smaller.
To prevent the occurrence of nutrient deficiency diseases in Clivia, measures such as adding fertilizer, increasing light, and reducing water should be taken in winter and spring. After the Start of Autumn is the golden season for Clivia growth; about every twenty days, a dilute fermented cake fertilizer solution can be applied along with watering, which will meet the needs of Clivia growth.
How to grow succulents (super detailed)
Around us, there are many people who want to be lazy yet also want to fiddle with some plants and flowers. Those green plants bought out of personal preference often either turn yellow or rot not long after being kept. If you want "green plants that don't take time, don't take effort, and can still live well on their own," succulents, known as the "cutest plants in history," are the first choice. So, how do you grow succulents? Let's take a look together below.
How to grow succulents
1. Soil
Basic requirements of succulents for soil
Loose and breathable, with good drainage and water retention, containing a certain amount of humus, with moderate particle size, no overly fine dust, and weakly acidic or neutral (a few species can tolerate slightly alkaline).
[Soil mixing] Coal cinder is a commonly used ingredient, but almost all furnace slag contains sulfur. Succulents are not sensitive to sulfur, and sulfur has bactericidal and insecticidal effects. From years of planting comparisons, plants grown with coal cinder are more resistant than those without it, and are less prone to root rot and root mealybugs. The best coal cinder to use is fully burned granular raw coal cinder (whether it contains incompletely burned coal does not matter), with honeycomb coal cinder being second best. Honeycomb coal cinder contains a large amount of soil, so if you want to use it, it should be crushed and sifted. Before use, coal cinder should be rinsed with water to remove dust and alkalinity. Eggshells can be used, with eggshells making up about 1/4 of the mix, and the effect is very good. Eggshells are a very good breathable and water-permeable planting material, very useful for increasing soil breathability, and of course they can also increase calcium content. Eggshells should be crushed to 2-3mm. In planting material, garden soil generally accounts for about 1/4 and sand about 1/3. But both garden soil and sand contain fine dust, and brick granules, vermiculite, perlite, orchid stone, and furnace slag must all be sifted free of fine dust and repeatedly washed before use. The composition of planting materials does not have to follow exactly what the experts list, nor does it have to be a single ingredient; rather, the more ingredients and the more varied, the better. If you have brick granules, vermiculite, perlite, orchid stone, and furnace slag on hand, then use a bit of each, with the total amount controlled at about 1/3. For another example, if you also have eggshells, clam shells, bone meal, old lime, carbonized rice husks, and other calcium-containing things, then use a little of each, with the total amount controlled at about 10-20%. Different planting materials have different physical functions and different nutrients, and using a more varied mix is definitely better than a single ingredient. No matter which ingredient it is, before use it should at the very least be sun-baked for several days.[Soil mixing substrate]
For succulents, the culture soil sold on the market mostly has certain limitations, so experienced enthusiasts often mix their own. What kind of culture soil counts as high quality? Simply put, it should be a sandy loam that is loose and breathable, drains well, has a certain crumb structure, and can provide the nutrients needed during the plant's growing period. When mixing, attention should be paid to the reasonable combination of organic planting materials and inorganic planting materials, avoiding overly fine and overly small dust. Below are some commonly used substrates for succulents:
1. Organic planting materials
① Leaf mold: You can choose the Clivia soil sold on the market, or you can collect and compost bald cypress or zelkova leaves yourself, and disinfect them before use.
② Peat: It is a lake and marsh plant buried underground for thousands of years, and currently the kind produced in Jilin and Heilongjiang is relatively good. High-quality peat is brown in color, has high organic matter content, good fiber degree, a loose texture, feels non-sticky, has strong adsorption, and a slightly acidic pH.
③ Sawdust: It has strong water permeability and water retention, but because it itself has high carbon content and low nitrogen content, it is generally not used alone and can be mixed with some nitrogen-containing compounds such as soybean cake and composted and fermented.
④ Rice hull ash: Rich in potassium fertilizer, with a slightly alkaline pH. Choose deep black kind, not whitish, and with a uniform structure, not too fine.
⑤ Tree fern fiber: The treated stem of a fern plant (Cyathea). Hard in texture and brown in color, not easy to rot. It drains well and has a certain fertility, and is a popular cultivation substrate in recent years.
⑥ Mountain soil: Huangshan soil: low organic matter content, average drainage; red mountain soil: high organic matter content, soil becomes sticky and heavy after watering, and easily hardens after drying; black mountain soil: high organic matter content, good drainage and not easy to harden after watering. Generally black mountain soil is used.
⑦ Orchid soil: A commonly used orchid cultivation substrate. But practice has proven that it is also quite good for succulents. Its characteristics are: complete nutrients, good drainage, no pollution, no weed seeds. After one year in a pot, the crumb structure is still very good.
2. Inorganic planting materials
① Vermiculite: A golden lightweight material with a honeycomb-like structure, with strong water and heat retention, good breathability, and no pathogens. Used as a cutting substrate, the survival rate is high, but it itself has no fertility, so it is best mixed with other substrates. After long-term cultivation it easily breaks down structurally. Used vermiculite should be sifted before reuse.
② Perlite: A volcanic stone containing aluminum silicate, expanded into a lightweight material by high-temperature heating. Good water permeability and good aeration. But its available water content is low, so it is often used as an additive supplementary material.
③ Coconut coir: Palm fiber, loose in texture, with especially strong water retention. Often used for cuttings. What is commonly seen on the market is coconut coir compressed into small blocks, also called "expanded soil." Soak it in water before use.
④ Pond foundation stone: Made by high-temperature firing, often placed at the bottom of the pot or mixed with other substrates. If mixed with other planting materials, the granules should not be too large; about 0.2cm is fine.
⑤ Plant gold stone: It is an orchid cultivation substrate, with more advantages than pond foundation stone, rich in various minerals, and with remarkable results for cultivating succulents; it can replace the former, but is slightly more expensive.
⑥: Choose one that does not contain salt, and the granules should not be too fine. Before use, wash and sift it, and mix it with other substrates. Good water permeability, high oxygen content, and large day-night temperature difference suit the requirements of succulents. Other inorganic planting materials include volcanic stone, coal briquettes, and so on. In addition, when mixing culture soil, some auxiliary materials are often used, such as calcium-containing materials like shell powder and calcium treasure. There are also some base fertilizers such as chicken manure and cow manure. When mixing, attention should be paid to the reasonable combination of organic planting materials and inorganic planting materials, avoiding overly fine and overly small dust.
[Soil formulation] No matter which planting material is chosen or how it is mixed, it must satisfy the basic requirements of the plant, and all aspects must be considered and handled flexibly.
① Mix according to the cultivation site: For example, the soil for ground planting and pot planting is different. For ground planting, more consideration should be given to drainage, and materials with strong drainage such as gravel should be added. For pot planting, on the principle of ensuring looseness and breathability, organic matter should be appropriately supplemented. If planting on a south-facing balcony, the characteristics of being relatively dry and having sufficient light should also be considered, and substrates with strong water retention such as vermiculite and coconut coir should be appropriately added.
② Mix according to different species: Different species may be "vastly different" in soil formulation. For example, epiphytic species need a certain amount of humus, while some terrestrial species whose original habitat soil is poor and whose root systems are not well developed have lower humus requirements than the former. Not only do species of different families need different soils, even species of different genera within the same family have different soil requirements. Take the Liliaceae plants Chinese aloe and Gasteria verrucosa for example: the former belongs to the genus Aloe, has a robust habit and grows quickly, and sufficient base fertilizer can be added at the bottom of the pot. The latter is a Gasteria plant, grows slowly, and basically does not need base fertilizer.
③ Mix according to different cultivation regions: The northern climate is dry, and there are certain requirements for the soil's moisture retention capacity; the south has abundant rainfall and high air humidity, so there are higher requirements for the soil's drainage and aeration.
④ Mix according to different growth stages: In the seedling stage the root system is not well developed, the organic matter content should be slightly lower, and the soil should mainly be lightweight materials combined with some fine sand, and then the organic matter content can be gradually increased later.
Actually, soil formulation cannot be explained clearly with just a few simple principles. The following recipes can be used for reference:
1) 8 parts plant gold stone + 2 parts orchid soil + a little shell powder (suitable for cultivating Lithops).
2) 10 parts coarse sand + 2 parts sawdust + 1 part base fertilizer + 1 part garden soil (suitable for ground planting).
3) 1 part leaf mold + 1 part peat + 2 parts coarse sand + 1 part lightweight material + a little base fertilizer (suitable for cultivating epiphytic types).
4) 3 parts pond foundation stone + 2 parts orchid soil + 1 part lightweight material + 1 part peat (suitable for cultivating Haworthia hard-leaf series varieties).
5) 2 parts garden soil + 1 part leaf mold + 4 parts coarse sand + 1 part lightweight material + half a part rice hull ash (suitable for cultivating ordinary terrestrial types).
For Sedum soil mixing, I think the proportion of peat soil or grass peat soil can be slightly larger, with notes of humus soil, river sand, perlite, vermiculite, etc. In order to facilitate rooting and robust growth, add an appropriate amount of rice husk charcoal, bone meal, fungicide, etc. to the soil; watering should be decided according to the weather and plant growth conditions, watering when dry and letting it dry between waterings. Focus on managing those that are growing well. Most of those that are not growing well are actually in a dormant period, so of course it is best to manage them less.
Soil mixing: sifted honeycomb coal cinder + garden soil + orchid soil + sand + bone meal + shell powder + eggshell + ceramsite + orchid stone + activated carbon, sift out fine dust before planting. Maintain under full light, water when dry and let dry between waterings. Add decomposed chicken manure at the bottom of the pot. The pot should be small, and the soil should be little and loose. After the soil dries completely, wait a few days before watering, and give more sun. Water less in midsummer; most Crassulaceae succulents enter dormancy or semi-dormancy in summer. [Source]
For strong-spined balls like golden barrel cactus, ordinary flower soil + coal ball ash + bone meal is enough; as for watering, once a month is fine.
Ball types: ordinary flower soil + coal ball ash (sifted into granular form) + vermiculite + an appropriate amount of bone meal
Succulents with thick fleshy roots (such as Lithops): orchid stone + orchid soil + an appropriate amount of bone meal
Other succulents: ordinary flower soil + leaf mold + tree fern + vermiculite + an appropriate amount of bone meal
Put the mixed planting material into a stainless steel container, pour in rainwater to moisten the soil, then seal the container and heat it over fire for a period of time to ensure killing insects, larvae, and eggs, but some beneficial soil microorganisms will survive, especially those that reproduce by spores.
[Pot selection] Clay pots absorb water very well, so even if you water too much there is not much problem, and they can alleviate the negative effects caused by overwatering, but clay pots become heavy after absorbing water, requiring a sturdy flower stand. Purple clay pots have breathability between that of tile pots and porcelain pots, and generally purple clay pots are mostly used for growing succulents and cacti. With purple clay pots, special attention should be paid to the thickness of the pot wall; the thinner the wall, the stronger the breathability, and those with very thick walls have breathability similar to porcelain pots.
Generally speaking, the root systems of succulents and cacti are not very well developed, and many only have fibrous roots. Planting a species with very shallow roots in a relatively deep pot will only be detrimental to its growth, because the lower pot soil that the roots cannot reach will retain moisture for a long time, making the pot soil sticky and sluggish. If there is too much soil, the moisture cannot evaporate and transpire for a while, which easily leads to rot. Therefore, when choosing a pot, follow the principle of "better small than large, better shallow than deep," and it is best to use a half-height ratio or a flat pot. Only those succulent and cactus varieties with tubers or taproots need deeper pot soil, and they will grow very well in standard pots or deep pots. For medium and large balls, the pot diameter should be basically equal to the ball diameter, or the pot diameter slightly larger than the ball diameter by one or two centimeters, and small balls are best planted several per pot. The cultivation soil depth should be at most twice the ball diameter, that is, if the ball diameter is 5cm, a soil depth of 10cm is enough, and for large balls it can be even shallower. The larger the ball, the less water and nutrients it consumes, and too much pot soil is not only useless but also prone to causing rot. If the flower pot is too deep, add more non-soil filler at the bottom as a drainage layer, and the drainage material granules can be arranged in several layers, with the largest placed at the very bottom. After the drainage material is placed, first put in coarse-grained ingredients and then fine-grained ingredients. After placing the plant, add soil while lifting the plant slightly upward to spread the roots. Do not fill the soil too full at once; tamp the soil evenly along the edge of the pot, and finally tap the pot lightly a few times to level the pot soil.
[Repotting]
Because succulents mostly grow under artificial cultivation conditions, their root systems are confined in flower pots and can hardly stretch freely. After a period of growth, the root system fills the entire flower pot, which is not conducive to drainage or aeration. Moreover, the soil in the pot is limited, and after continuous absorption by the root system and repeated watering, the nutrients are almost completely lost, and the culture soil also changes from the original crumb form into powder form. In addition, in the process of absorbing nutrients, the root system also continuously excretes acidic metabolites, making the soil acidic, which is very unfavorable to plant growth. Therefore, after the plant grows to a certain stage, it must be repotted and the soil changed. According to different varieties and plant sizes, repot once every 1-2 years or 3 years (some small seedlings of certain varieties can even be transplanted several times a year, the so-called "move a bit, grow a bit"). For most varieties, repotting is generally carried out in mid-to-late March, and division propagation is carried out together with repotting. Learn more: Succulent repotting guide2. Watering
Succulents must be supplemented with water in a timely manner to meet the needs of growth and development, and definitely not according to what some people think: "better dry than wet." Of course, for ground-planted plants, the number of waterings can be fewer. For most succulents and own-root cultivated cactus balls, watering is difficult to master, mainly in terms of timing the watering.
To master the watering techniques for succulents, you must first understand the dormancy habits of each species. Watering during the dormant period easily causes plant rot. For example, if Lithops, which are dormant in summer, are watered in summer, the plants will rot immediately; for cactus balls that are dormant in winter, if watered in winter, it will cause root rot or make them susceptible to freezing. Although they may not rot in winter, they will rot as soon as spring arrives.
Second, carefully observe the growth condition of each plant. Some people, as soon as they see that some plants have red leaf color, or dried leaf tips and old leaves, think it is due to lack of water. In fact, this phenomenon may also appear when the light is too strong, the pot soil has been dry for a long time, the root system is damaged, the root crown is rotting, or the root crown has been bitten by insects and then repaired itself and formed a scar, causing poor water transport. Therefore, being familiar with the plant's growth condition is very helpful for mastering watering techniques. Generally, plants that grow particularly vigorously and plants in the flowering and bud-bearing stage have higher water requirements, and watering for them should be as timely as possible; while for some old large balls whose growth has basically stagnated, the number of waterings should be fewer.
Finally, watering should take into account air temperature, air humidity, greenhouse ventilation, pot size and material, whether the roots have extended down to the sand bed, and so on. The purpose is to help judge whether the pot is short of water. When growing other potted flowers, watering can generally be decided according to whether the surface pot soil has turned white, but with succulents, judging by this will cause errors, because the culture soil of succulents is generally mixed with sand, vermiculite, lightweight stone, shell powder, and other substances, which easily cause the pot soil surface to turn white. Especially when the proportion of these substances is large, often after watering, by the next day the pot soil surface has already turned white, while at this time the pot soil below is not short of water at all. Some experts point out that when the pot soil surface 1 centimeter deep is already dry while the lower pot soil is still moist, the root absorption of succulents reaches its maximum. If according to convention, you water as soon as the pot soil turns white, then it will cause overwatering and affect plant growth.
As for the time of watering, in summer it is best in the early morning, in winter it should be done in the morning of a clear day, and in spring and autumn either morning or evening is fine. Under normal circumstances, do not pour water from the top, otherwise over time ugly spots will appear on the ball body, the hairs of hairy column types are easily soiled and matted, and water accumulating at the growth point of plants such as Haworthia will cause rot. Pond water poured on the plants easily breeds algae, making them look as if covered with moss, which is very ugly. Under normal circumstances, watering must be thorough, and for this reason the soil must be loosened frequently so that the pot soil can evenly absorb enough water. For winter-growing and intermediate-type plants that are growing, the pot soil should be kept moist but not waterlogged, and watering should be done by "water thoroughly when dry," neither waterlogged nor overly dry. Summer-growing types can be watered appropriately, but not excessively. If there is cloudy and rainy weather or the temperature suddenly drops, then stop watering.
How exactly to control the amount of watering
The source of this problem, I think, is mainly the lack of quantitative experience. The descriptions in many books are nothing more than "strictly control watering," "can water more," "keep dry," "better dry than wet," and so on. Everyone's understanding of such descriptions is definitely different. Some friends understand "dry" differently from another friend, so one waters and the other does not, and naturally the results are different. Although quantitative analysis can make the mistake of dogmatism, it should be helpful for everyone to reduce losses in the process of becoming an expert grower. Below are two experiences I find relatively practical; I have said them before, and here I will summarize them again:
1. Bamboo skewer judgment method: Insert a bamboo skewer (or toothpick) to two-thirds the depth of the pot soil. When you are about to water, pull out the bamboo skewer and look at the dryness and moisture of the soil portion. This method is very helpful for watering plants that are dormant or semi-dormant, or about to enter dormancy or semi-dormancy;
2. Surface soil dryness and moisture judgment method: Generally speaking, when the surface soil turns white, you can water. This is the principle of "don't water if not dry, water thoroughly when dry." So-called dry thoroughly means the surface soil turns white, but if you push aside the surface soil, you can still see moisture. For succulents and cacti in the growing period, this judgment method is enough. For robust ones, you can water immediately; for those relatively afraid of water, wait two more days before watering.
There are also the pot-lifting method, that is, friends with a good sense of feel can lift the pot, and if they feel the pot is lighter, they can water. For succulents and cacti grown in plastic pots, with soil mainly composed of lightweight materials such as peat, the difference in weight after watering and when dry is still quite obvious. The pot-tapping method, that is, lightly tapping the pot wall with a finger; if it makes a hollow sound, it means the soil is dry.
Once the soil moisture has been judged, it is time to water. When conditions permit, the bottom-watering method is best. Generally, immerse the pot to one-half its depth in water, and 15 seconds is enough; do not wait until moisture appears on the surface soil before taking it out. The looser and more breathable the soil, the shorter the time can be, because the siphon effect is strong. The advantage of this watering method is that it can ensure the upper part of the soil is relatively drier than the lower part, making root rot less likely. Because the root tip of the plant is divided into the root cap zone, growth zone, elongation zone, and root hair zone, only the root hairs are the main part absorbing water and have the strongest resistance to moisture, while the old roots above the root hair zone have already lost the function of absorbing water and mainly play the role of transporting water and nutrients and anchoring, with poor moisture resistance; root rot often starts from here.3. Air humidity
Some succulent enthusiasts often discover this problem: the succulent treasures they just picked up from the flower market have already lost the spirited look they had when they first "moved in" after only a few days. Although they take great care of them, these little things are very ungracious. This greatly worries their owner. Little do they know that this problem can be said to be one that every succulent enthusiast will encounter, and it often stumps some hobbyists. But any cultivator with a little experience knows that this is actually a problem of air humidity.
If you are a succulent friend in a dry northern region; if your cultivation site is your own open-air balcony or windowsill, this point is especially important. So why do the above problems occur? Why is air humidity so important? Here we can analyze it together: the succulents in the flower market are all produced in nurseries, and such plants are all grown in greenhouses, and greenhouses are mostly closed cultivation most of the time, so the air humidity inside is relatively high. Plants cultivated this way are plump and full of vitality. However, after they are purchased, because household cultivation sites in most regions often cannot reach such conditions, the above problems appear. Then some succulent friends will ask: the original habitats of these succulents are mostly harsh environments, with very little annual precipitation and dryness, so how do they use air humidity? First, let us exclude the relatively high air humidity during the rainy season. In these places of origin, the temperature is relatively high in the few hours before the sun sets (especially at noon). But at night the temperature drops sharply again. In this way, the hot and cold air condenses into mist. This is especially noticeable at dawn. This is also one of their ways of absorbing water, and at this time they are at their happiest. Now looking back, the conditions of most of our cultivation sites are still insufficient. This does not even include some epiphytic varieties with higher requirements and some Bromeliaceae plants.
It is precisely because of the limitations of cultivation site conditions that many plants show fading, withered and scorched leaf tips, shriveling, premature aging of the plant, and so on. And this cannot be seen in greenhouse cultivation. Although it is not fatal, the ornamental value will be greatly reduced. The most effective method is very simple: spray with a fine-nozzle spray bottle. Many hobbyists also use a disposable plastic cup inverted over the pot (mostly in spring and winter). Or they choose to cultivate in a glass tank, laying a layer of coarse gauze at the bottom, and sprinkling water on it from time to time, which can increase humidity without making the pot often "flooded with water." In short, the adjustment of air humidity must consider many aspects, including species, season, growth stage, etc., and absolutely must not be generalized. If humidity is too high, plants rot easily and are prone to scale insects; if humidity is too low, the ornamental value of plants is reduced and they are prone to red spider mites.
1 Air humidity requirements in each season: Maintaining a certain air humidity during the growing period is quite important. When the plant enters the growing period, the role of air humidity is obvious. Species native to tropical rainforests have even stricter requirements. Some horticultural varieties rich in color changes, if considerable air humidity can be maintained, will have more brilliant colors. It can be said that basically most varieties need a certain humidity at this time. During the dormant period, however, the control of air humidity must be quite cautious. The first to bear the brunt are some summer-dormant varieties with a high degree of succulence. For example, summer in Shanghai is a typical "hot and humid" weather. Highly succulent species of Aizoaceae rot quite easily. How old varieties such as Lithops and Dinteranthus wilmotianus pass the summer is often the most headache-inducing problem for enthusiasts. Similarly, winter-dormant varieties also need to maintain a certain degree of dryness. This point should be given considerable attention after the temperature drops below 5 degrees. When the temperature continues to drop to 0 degrees or lower. At this time, if the humidity is on the high side, it is often fatal and can kill them overnight. However, most cities in the north are relatively dry in winter. This kind of "wet and cold" climate is more common in some southern cities in China.
2 Air humidity at the seedling stage: Air humidity at the seedling stage is particularly important, and its significance exceeds that of soil humidity. Because in the seedling stage there will be a process of "hardening the seedlings." The purpose of controlling the moisture in the soil in this way is to promote new roots, and at this time maintaining relatively high air humidity can prevent them from lacking water because of seedling hardening. Generally, the air humidity requirement at the seedling stage is higher than at other growth stages, but the air humidity at this time is also the hardest to master. Practice has proven that the smaller the seed, the relatively smaller the seedling, and the poorer its resistance, often unable to tolerate high humidity. Typical examples are most varieties of Aizoaceae and some varieties of Crassulaceae (with begonia, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, being the most prominent) as representatives. Once they are fully formed, such phenomena will greatly improve, and the problem of air humidity will not be so prominent.
3 Air humidity requirements for asexual propagation: The two commonly used asexual propagation methods at home are cuttings and grafting. Cuttings: Plant organs should be kept dry for the few days just after being separated from the mother plant. This period of time depends on the variety. At least 4 or 5 days, at most one month, and after the wound has completely dried it can be inserted into the substrate. At this time relatively high air humidity can be maintained. On this point there are mainly two schools: one advocates creating a dry environment, which can root in a relatively short time but consumes more; the other advocates creating a moist environment, and this method consumes less of the cutting individual. As for grafting, the views are relatively unified: in the first two weeks after grafting is completed, dryness and ventilation must be maintained, and excessively high humidity has an effect on the survival rate of grafting.
4 For certain tuberous-root varieties such as: Dioscorea elephantipes, bitter gourd types, and Ceropegia woodii, etc. In their places of origin, their surfaces are often irregularly cracked and mostly uneven. But under artificial cultivation conditions, especially when domestication starts from seedlings, their uneven surfaces become very inconspicuous. But the reason is not only a matter of humidity; it is an all-around issue. This point is also an auxiliary basis used by some experienced enthusiasts to judge wild versus artificially cultivated plants.
3. Fertilization
Winter-growing and intermediate-type plants should be given a decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer about every 20 days. The fertilization time can be on a clear morning, and be careful that the fertilizer liquid does not splash onto the plants. Summer-growing types do not need fertilization.
4. Temperature
The most suitable temperature is 15-28, and 5-35 is the plant's tolerance limit.
5. Propagation
After leaf cuttings have taken root, wait until the leaf withers, and after the bud grows larger, then move them. Wait until the seedlings grow to two or three cm before doing anything. When doing leaf cuttings, use a large pot, do not spray, water when the soil is dry, and do not water onto them.
Beheading is suitable in mid-April each year; just leave three to four leaves below, then let the cut-off part dry for five days and then insert it as a cutting.
Many succulents can be propagated by cutting branches from the stem with a sharp knife and inserting them as cuttings. Any tool used to cut plant bodies must be disinfected with alcohol beforehand. Learn more: Succulent stem cutting propagation methods
The best cutting site is, for example, below a node on a stem with nodes, or below the leaf petiole or the base of a new bud on the stem. Be careful not to damage the beauty of the mother plant's shape when taking cutting branches; it is best to take branches after at least one stem node. Insert the cutting branch into a high-temperature sterilized sandy medium, which can be pure sand, coarse sand, or vermiculite. Sometimes the cutting branch can be planted directly after being cut, or it can first be air-dried for one or two days to let the wound tissue heal and avoid fungal infection.
Many succulents need only one leaf to obtain a new plant through cuttings. Such as Adromischus and Echeveria of Crassulaceae, Sansevieria, and many epiphytic Cactaceae plants. Gasteria plants can sometimes also be propagated by leaf cuttings. Let the removed leaf dry for a few days, so that the wound closes and healing tissue forms, then place the leaf into a propagation pot, with only the base of the leaf touching the cultivation substrate. It feels that this works better than inserting the lower part of the leaf into the substrate, and it is less likely to rot. After a period of time, new roots can be observed growing out, and subsequently new buds and new leaves will also appear.
Cuttings are best done at the beginning of the growing period, usually in spring, of course excluding winter-growing plants. After cuttings are done, place them in a well-ventilated, brightly lit place at room temperature 20°C, but avoid sunlight. Putting the cuttings into a closed environment that can maintain suitable humidity until they root is also a good method. A simple way is to put a large polyethylene plastic bag over a large flower pot, or cut off the upper half of a clean transparent plastic bottle and invert it over a pot of comparable size. Water the cuttings sparingly rather than heavily, until obvious growth can be observed, then increase the amount of watering.
Division propagation: Many succulents are clustered, or have thick large tubers, and they can be propagated by division. After taking the plant out of the pot, remove as much pot soil as possible. The specific method of division depends on the plant's growth type. For example, multi-headed varieties in Apocynaceae, Crassulaceae, and Cactaceae can be divided when the pot is tipped out, and young plants that are growing well and have already rooted independently can be separated and potted separately.
Offset propagation: Many cacti and succulents will produce offsets or small offsets at the base of the mature plant, which are usually very easy to pick or cut off, and after drying and resting for a few days they can be potted separately. Doing this is also good for the mother plant, because these offsets or small offsets consume a lot of nutrients from the mother plant. Some plants will sprout tillers on the leaf edges or flower stalks, which can also be picked off and cultivated.
6. Pest and disease control
1. Red spider mite
It mainly harms succulents of Apocynaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Asteraceae, and Liliaceae. It sucks the sap of young stems and leaves with its mouthparts. The damaged leaves show yellow-brown spots or wither and fall off, and such scars remain forever. Generally speaking, you can check whether there are spider webs on the back of the leaves, and also very small red/white/dark-colored insects; if there are, it is usually red spider mite.
Control methods can be to increase environmental humidity to reduce and avoid spreading. 40% dicofol 1000-1500 times solution can be used to kill by absorption, or abamectin.
Red spider mite removal method
Removing red spider mites by hand has low cost, is easy to source materials for, and has excellent effect.
Materials: one toothpick, a small amount of double-sided tape.
Method: Cut the double-sided tape into small pieces 0.5-1CM square and place them flat on the tabletop; take one toothpick, press one end onto the adhesive surface to fix it, then lightly roll the toothpick in one direction so that the double-sided tape wraps around one end of the toothpick; thus a simple miniature "lint roller" is made. Place the plant with red spider mite damage under bright light (because the pests are too small, they cannot be seen clearly at all in poor light), then use the "lint roller" to roll over the ball body. The red spider mites will find it very hard to escape. Because the "lint roller" is very small, it can flexibly move between ribs and spines, leaving red spider mites nowhere to hide. When one "lint roller" is covered with pests, you can take a short rest, then make a new one. This method is suitable for use in the early stage of the disease, when the ball body has not yet been extensively damaged, and the effect is quite good.
2. Scale insects
The scope of damage is very broad. It often harms succulents such as Agave and Haworthia whose leaves are arranged compactly, sucking stem and leaf sap, causing poor plant growth and, in severe cases, withering and death. Its peak occurrence period is earlier than that of red spider mite, and it often has already multiplied in large numbers in early spring. But there is also an easily controlled aspect to its damage, namely that it often concentrates only on a few plants. Sometimes one plant is covered with scale insects, while a neighboring plant has not a single one.
Control methods: When the number is small, they can be removed with a brush. In addition, 800-**** times solution of profenofos can also be sprayed to kill them. Mixing a certain amount of carbofuran into the culture soil has a preventive effect, but the efficacy lasts only 3 months.
3. Whitefly
The scope of damage is not large, occurring more on shrub-like succulents of Euphorbiaceae such as Euphorbia trigona, Euphorbia milii, Euphorbia neriifolia, and Euphorbia mammillaris, piercing and sucking sap on the back of leaves, causing leaves to turn yellow and fall off, and at the same time inducing sooty mold, with large patches of ugly black powder on stems and leaves, directly affecting the ornamental value of the plant.
Control methods: In addition to improving environmental ventilation, in the early stage of occurrence, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-2000 times solution can be sprayed to kill them. Malathion 500 times solution or dimethoate mixed with dichlorvos 1000 times solution can also be sprayed. Two days after spraying, use a strong water stream to wash away the dead insects together with the black powder.
Rot treatment
Rot is a disease that commonly appears in succulents, usually a fungal infection caused by overwatering or an overly humid cultivation environment. Some insects such as mealybugs can also cause rot, especially root mealybugs. The wounds caused when these pests suck plant sap can lead to fungal infection.
Rot has many manifestations, and by the time you discover it, it is often already too late. Always be alert to areas of fading color on the plant, as well as stems and leaves that have become soft and mushy.
Once a part of a succulent has faded in color and become soft and mushy, it is rotten. If it is rotten, it must be cut off immediately. The knife and hands must be disinfected before and after to avoid infecting other plants. If it is a fungal infection, spray the plant with fungicide, and the wound must be completely dry before it goes into soil.
There are many kinds of rot, briefly introduced as follows:
Crown rot: The inside of the plant rots, causing the plant to fall over;
Stem rot (mainly Euphorbiaceae): The stem rots, usually appearing at the bottom of the stem;
Spotted stem rot: Caused by orange stink bugs (Orange stink bugs);
Fungal rot: Brown, watery stains appear on the plant;
Aizoaceae rot: Occurs on branches and stems
Black rot: Often occurs after cotton aphid or root mealybug infection.
Treatment methods for rotted succulents
When handling rotted plants, be sure to keep tools clean and sterile, and be sure to wash your hands carefully before touching other plants.
Crown rot: Use a sharp knife to cut away the infected part, then stuff crushed charcoal and sulfur into the wound, and the wound should be completely dry.
Neck rot: Cut off the rotten part, and treat the rest as a stem cutting. Remember that it can only go into soil after the wound is completely dry.
Fungal rot: Cut off the damaged parts with a clean knife and cover the cuts with sulfur. Spray the plant with a mixed solution of benomyl (translator's note: a fungicide) and mancozeb.
Black rot: Cut off the infected parts with a clean knife, spray with benomyl, and cover with sulfur.
If you do not have the above chemicals, ordinary disinfectant and antibacterial medications will do as a makeshift substitute. The most important thing is to cut away the rotted parts, then place the plant in a well-ventilated spot and wait for the wound to dry and heal. As long as the rot is cut away, succulents will generally survive thanks to their tenacious nature, though some harder-to-grow varieties are exceptions.
★ Spring Care of Succulents
In climatology, spring refers to the period when the average temperature remains steadily above 10°C for 5 consecutive days. Although the Start of Spring solar term arrives around February 4 each year, China's vast territory means temperatures vary greatly from region to region; moreover, early spring and late spring climates also differ enormously. Therefore, spring care of succulents should be carried out according to the climate and timing of each different region.
In early spring in February, northern regions are still icy and snowy, and succulent care can still follow the winter care methods; while in the south, where spring warmth has already arrived, daytime temperatures can reach 10°C-15°C, and on clear days indoor temperatures can exceed 20°C, with nighttime temperatures of 3°C-5°C. However, temperatures at this time are still unstable, with cold spells occurring frequently, a phenomenon known as "sudden warmth followed by cold." Do not rush to move the flowers outdoors, and do not rush to open the greenhouse, because the blowing of cold wind can give plants a "cold," and pay attention to temperature stability, avoiding temperatures that rise and fall abruptly, while maintaining a certain day-night temperature difference. Also prevent condensed water droplets from dripping onto the plants and causing rot. By March, as temperatures continue to rise and the day-night temperature difference increases, "winter-growing type" and "intermediate type" succulents that grow in spring and autumn both enter their peak growing season, and "summer-growing type" plants also begin to awaken and prepare to grow. At this time, do not rush to move the flowers out; you can first open the greenhouse windows for ventilation so the plants gradually adapt to the outside climate, especially when the weather is clear in the south, to avoid the microenvironment temperature becoming too high and steaming the plants. However, in northern regions, if a cold spell, "late spring cold," or windy temperature drop occurs, doors and windows should still be kept tightly closed to prevent the plants from being damaged by freezing. In April, as the weather further warms, succulents enter the golden growing season of the year. Winter-growing and intermediate varieties continue to grow, and summer-growing types also begin to grow. Some plants suitable for outdoor growth can gradually be moved outside to receive sunlight and the spring breeze. But if there is continuous rainy weather, care should be taken to prevent prolonged rain exposure, so that low temperatures and dampness do not cause the plants to rot. When indoor temperatures exceed 30°C, windows should be opened for ventilation to lower the temperature, prevent high temperatures from harming the plants, and increase air circulation to benefit plant growth.
In spring, for "winter-growing type" and "intermediate type" succulents in their growing period, watering can follow the principle of "do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly." In addition, pay attention to differences between varieties. For example, among Crassulaceae, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Echeveria 'Chihuahuaensis', and Crassula 'Green Pagoda'; among Liliaceae, Gasteria, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia cooperi, and Haworthia cooperi var. picturata; and among Aizoaceae, Lithops and Conophytum, all are in their growing period. The first two groups grow relatively quickly, so they should be watered somewhat more, and a certain air humidity should be maintained to make the leaves thick and plump with vivid colors; the latter group grows relatively slowly and is in the "molting period," requiring little water, so they should be watered less, and excessive air humidity should be avoided to prevent the plants from rotting. In short, both the plant's water needs for growth and the avoidance of water accumulation in the pot soil must be satisfied. According to differences in variety and growth vigor, some well-rotted dilute liquid fertilizer or "low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium" compound fertilizer may be applied as appropriate. By late April, the growth of "winter-growing type" succulents tends to slow, and fertilization should be stopped, with attention paid to controlling watering.
"Summer-growing type" succulents should have watering controlled during the relatively cold early spring. By mid-to-late March, as temperatures rise, the plants begin to grow slowly and can be watered somewhat more. After "Qingming Festival," temperatures generally stabilize around 20°C, the plants grow gradually more vigorously, and normal watering can resume, along with light fertilizer application. Regardless of the type of succulent, fertilizer solution should be dilute rather than concentrated; plants with vigorous growth can be fertilized more and more frequently; weaker-growing varieties should be fertilized less, or even not at all; newly potted plants should also not be fertilized, since their root systems have not yet recovered their absorption capacity.
Regardless of the type of succulent, full sunlight should be provided in spring. Insufficient light will cause the plants to become leggy; rosette-forming Crassulaceae plants will have loose forms and dull, lusterless leaf colors, and some varieties will have reduced white powder on the leaf surface; Aizoaceae Lithops and Conophytum plants will grow thin and tall, lacking vitality.
"Summer-growing type" succulents can be repotted at the end of March, "intermediate type" can be repotted as early as the beginning of March, and "winter-growing type" is generally not repotted in spring. In short, the best time to repot is when the dormant period is about to end and the growing period is just beginning. When repotting, knock the plant out of the pot, remove the soil from the roots, cut away rotten, hollow, non-absorbing old roots, and replant with fresh growing medium. If it is a clustering plant, division propagation can also be carried out along with repotting. In addition, for some seedlings sown last autumn, if they are growing too densely, they should be separated and transplanted.
In addition to division propagation, cutting, sowing, and propagation of certain succulent varieties can also be carried out in spring. After mid-to-late April, when temperatures stabilize around 20°C, grafting propagation can be carried out on Cactaceae and Euphorbiaceae succulents. Succulents that have already flowered can be hand-pollinated to obtain seeds, and through hybridization the plant quality can be improved and superior individuals selected; with luck, new varieties can even be bred. Succulents that flower in late autumn or winter will have ripe fruit in spring, and attention should be paid to collecting the seeds so they are not scattered and lost.
Spring is the season when all things revive, and it is also a season when pests and diseases are more likely to occur, so attention should be paid to spraying chemicals for prevention and control.
★ Summer Care of Succulents
Summer refers to the period from the "Start of Summer" around May 5 to the "Start of Autumn" around August 7. This is the hottest season of the year. Due to regional differences, climates vary greatly from place to place; generally speaking, summers in the south are hot and humid, while in the north they are hot and dry. Relatively speaking, May and the first half to middle of June are not yet so hot, and the day-night temperature difference is relatively large. After the dog days begin, however, not only are temperatures high, but the day-night temperature difference is small and the weather is muggy. Such an environment is very unfavorable for the growth of succulents, especially for "winter-growing type" and "intermediate type" succulents. In addition, summer hail and flood disasters caused by heavy rain or continuous rainy weather can also cause great harm to succulents, even wiping them out completely.
In summer, "summer-growing type" succulents such as Cactaceae's Echinocactus grusonii and Parodia scopa, Agavaceae's Agave filifera, Agave potatorum 'Kichiokan,' and Agave isthmensis 'Ohi Raijin,' and Euphorbiaceae's Euphorbia tirucalli, Euphorbia lactea 'Cristata,' and Euphorbia neriifolia generally reach their peak growing season. Most cactus varieties can bloom beautifully in May and June, and some varieties bloom in July. Meanwhile, "intermediate type" succulents that grow in spring and autumn, such as Liliaceae Haworthia's Haworthia cooperi var. truncata, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia retusa, and Haworthia cooperi, Crassulaceae's Sempervivum and Sedum spurium, and Aizoaceae's Cheiridopsis and Oscularia, can continue growing in May when temperatures are suitable and the day-night temperature difference is large; by June, growth becomes slow, and in the hotter south they may even stop growing; by July, except in a few cooler regions, in most parts of China, "intermediate type" succulents stop growing or grow extremely slowly. "Winter-growing type" succulents such as Aizoaceae's Lithops, Conophytum, Frithia, and Lithops pseudotruncatella, Crassulaceae's Pachysedum and Cotyledon, and Dioscoreaceae's Dioscorea elephantipes slow their growth as temperatures rise in summer, until it completely stops.
In terms of care, "summer-growing type" succulents should be given ample sunlight. Insufficient light will not only cause the plants to become leggy, but will also affect flowering. For certain Cactaceae, Euphorbiaceae, and Asclepiadaceae varieties with columnar or globular forms, it will cause the fleshy stems to become thinner; for foliage-type succulents, it will cause the plant form to become loose and the leaf color to become dull. Especially for certain varieties whose leaf color is red or whose leaf surface has patterns or white powder, the fleshy leaves will also turn green, and the patterns or white powder on the leaf surface will decrease or even disappear. Therefore, it is best to place the plants outdoors in a spot with ample light and good ventilation; however, for certain delicate varieties, strong direct sunlight around midday in June and July should still be avoided to prevent sunburn on the epidermis. When temperatures continuously exceed 38°C, ventilation and cooling should also be carried out; shade netting can be added and white or light-colored stones can be laid on the surface of the pot soil to help lower the temperature. Plants that have been kept indoors for a long time or cultivated in other locations with insufficient light should not suddenly be moved into strong light; they should first be kept in semi-shade for a period, then moved to a spot with stronger light, so they can gradually adapt to the environment. Watering should follow the principle of "do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly," avoiding water accumulation in the pot soil. During the rainy season, pay attention to drainage and waterlogging prevention, so that water accumulation in the soil does not cause root rot, but do not let the soil become too dry either; otherwise, although the plants will not die, growth will stop, the leaves will shrivel, and they will lack vitality. Depending on the variety, apply well-rotted dilute liquid fertilizer or "low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium" compound fertilizer once every 10-15 days.
"Intermediate type" succulents can be kept in summer in a spot with bright light but no direct sunlight; at home, they can be placed on the inner side of a balcony or under the shade of trees in a courtyard. Watering can be done according to climate and variety differences as well as the plant's growth condition. In May and early June, when temperatures are not yet too high and the plants are still growing, normal watering can be done, with some light fertilizer applied as appropriate; by late June and July, when plant growth has basically stopped, watering should be controlled, keeping the pot soil from becoming excessively dry, and fertilization should be stopped.
"Winter-growing type" succulents basically stop growing in summer, and strong direct sunlight should be avoided, good ventilation should be provided, and watering should be strictly controlled. They should not be exposed to rain, especially prolonged rain or heavy rain. For varieties with extremely fleshy leaves, such as Aizoaceae's Lithops, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, and Pleiospilos, a little water can still be given in early to mid-May; after June, watering must be strictly controlled, and water can even be completely cut off, to prevent the plants from rotting.
In summer, regardless of the type of succulent, good ventilation is required. If ventilation is poor, combined with damp soil and air, it is very easy for muggy, humid conditions to cause root rot, and in severe cases even the entire plant rots away; while poor ventilation with dry air will lead to red spider mite damage. Although pesticide spraying can control them, the damaged areas will turn brown and are very difficult to eliminate. Therefore, for greenhouse cultivation, the surroundings of the greenhouse must be opened up to facilitate ventilation, and if necessary, electric fans can be installed inside the greenhouse. For home cultivation, plants should also be kept in well-ventilated balconies, windowsills, or courtyards. For Haworthia and certain cactus varieties that like relatively high air humidity, in early summer in May, the plants can be covered with transparent, colorless beverage bottles for cultivation, but by June these must be removed to avoid suffocating the plants. If the air is dry, a little water can be sprayed on the plants in the morning or evening to increase air humidity.
Most types of succulents are afraid of water accumulation, and summer is also a season with relatively high precipitation during the year. Therefore, drainage and waterlogging prevention are also important aspects of summer succulent care. Succulents placed in courtyards, on rooftops, or in greenhouses should preferably be placed on shelves or raised platforms, and bricks can also be used to prop up the flower pots, so that the pots are not submerged during heavy rain. Plants planted in the ground inside greenhouses should also be well protected to prevent water from entering the greenhouse. In addition, in summer, attention should also be paid to preventing hail damage to plants. Keep an eye on weather forecasts and prepare early, so that severe weather does not harm the plants.
Summer's high temperatures and high humidity also make it a season when various pests and diseases easily occur. The main diseases of succulents include stem rot, root rot, and rust. The main cause is pathogen infection brought about by poor ventilation in the cultivation site and excessive soil moisture. In addition to improving cultivation conditions, chemicals such as carbendazim can also be sprayed periodically for prevention and control. The main pests of succulents include woodlice, snails, red spider mites, scale insects, and root mealybugs. If found, pesticides should be sprayed promptly for control.
In May and early June, repotting, grafting, cutting, division, and sowing propagation can still be carried out for intermediate type, summer-growing type, and certain winter-growing type succulents. If temperature and humidity are suitable and methods are correct, such work can also be done in July. For flowering varieties, select plants with good appearance for hand pollination. After the fruit ripens, collect it promptly so the seeds are not scattered and lost. With luck, superior varieties can also be selected and bred from the seedlings grown from these seeds.
★ Autumn Care of Succulents
In phenology, autumn refers to the period after the heat has passed when the average temperature remains steadily below 22°C for 5 consecutive days. This is a relatively cool season of the year. Among China's traditional twenty-four solar terms, "Start of Autumn" falls around August 7, and "Start of Winter" around November 7 marks the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. However, because China has a vast territory, climates vary greatly from region to region, so the true autumn may be long or short, and the time autumn begins and ends also differs from place to place.
In early autumn in August, the "autumn tiger" is still raging, especially in southern regions, so the climate in most parts of China is still mainly "muggy and humid." This climate is unfavorable for succulent growth, and care can still follow summer methods, focusing on ventilation and cooling. By late August and early September, as temperatures drop and the day-night temperature difference increases, the climate becomes cool and pleasant, making it a good season for succulent growth. After Frost's Descent around October 22, northern regions begin to gradually turn cold, with frost occurring; in early November, some northern regions may even see snow. In short, autumn has clear skies, ample sunlight, and a relatively large day-night temperature difference, which is very favorable for succulent growth. But at the same time, autumn is also a season of greater climate change, with periods of continuous autumn rain and periods of "autumn tiger" heat, and in late autumn there can also be frost and cold spells that harm succulents. Attention should be paid to prevention to avoid losses.
In autumn, from August to September, "summer-growing type" succulents such as Agavaceae's Agave potatorum, Agave potatorum 'Kichiokan,' Agave victoriae-reginae, Agave filifera, and Sansevieria, Cactaceae's Opuntia, Lophophora williamsii, and Cereus, and Euphorbiaceae's Euphorbia mammillaris, Euphorbia lactea, Euphorbia spiralis, and Euphorbia neriifolia are still in their peak growing season, and some varieties can still bloom with gorgeous flowers; by October, growth slows and finally stops completely. Meanwhile, "intermediate type" succulents that grow in spring and autumn, such as Crassulaceae's Adromischus, Crassula 'Emerald,' Pachyphytum, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop,' and Cotyledon tomentosa, Asteraceae's Kleinia, Senecio, and Senecio rowleyanus, and most Liliaceae Haworthia varieties, begin to grow again in late August in the cooler northern regions, though growth is relatively slow, while in the hot south they are still dormant until after mid-September, when they generally enter their peak growing season. "Winter-growing type" succulents such as Aizoaceae's Lithops, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, and Titanopsis, Liliaceae's Bowiea volubilis and Gasteria, and Crassulaceae's Crassula, Crassula 'Green Pagoda,' and Pachyphytum, are completely dormant in August, begin slow growth in September, and enter their vigorous growing period from October to early November. Most Aizoaceae succulents such as Lithops and Conophytum bloom in this season.
In terms of care, "summer-growing type" succulents should be given ample sunlight. Most varieties can be placed outdoors in a spot with ample sunlight for cultivation, so they can grow robustly, maintaining beautiful plant forms, lustrous epidermis, and good appearance. However, in early autumn, seedlings should preferably be kept in a spot with bright light but no direct sunlight, to avoid overly strong light causing the seedlings to turn red and their growth rate to slow or stagnate. From August to September, watering should follow "water when dry, stop when wet"; both water accumulation in the soil and excessive dryness are unfavorable for normal plant growth. If continuous autumn rain occurs, watering should be stopped, and attention should be paid to drainage and waterlogging prevention. Fertilize according to variety differences. In northern regions, after October, watering should be controlled and fertilization stopped, so the plant's stems and leaves become firm and lay a good foundation for overwintering. Because the climate in southern regions is relatively warm, the time for controlling water can be postponed to late October.
"Intermediate type" succulents begin to grow again in late August in the relatively cool northern regions, while in southern regions growth is delayed until early to mid-September. But initial growth is relatively slow, so watering can be done appropriately, though not too much, and fertilization should also be avoided, so that excessive fertilizer and water do not cause root rot. After the plants have fully resumed growth, normal water and fertilizer management can be carried out. Depending on variety, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 15 to 20 days. For Liliaceae Haworthia and Sansevieria succulents that require slightly higher air humidity, the plants can be misted in the morning and evening, or a transparent, colorless beverage bottle with the top cut off can be placed over the plant to increase air humidity, making the leaves thick and plump with vivid color. In terms of light, from August to September they can be kept in a spot with bright light but no direct sunlight; from October to November, give ample light so they absorb as much sunlight as possible, making the plants firm and beneficial to the beauty of their form.
"Winter-growing type" succulents generally begin to grow in early to mid-September. For varieties with extremely fleshy leaves, such as Aizoaceae's Lithops, Conophytum, and Pleiospilos, ample light can be given to make the plants grow robustly. Other "winter-growing type" succulents should avoid harsh sun exposure. In the early growth stage, because growth is relatively slow and water and fertilizer requirements are not so high, a little water can be given, and after the plants regain vigor in late September, normal water and fertilizer management can be carried out.
In autumn, watering succulents can follow the principle of "water more for varieties in the growing period, water less for dormant varieties; water more for healthy, vigorously growing plants, water less for weak-growing plants." In short, it is necessary both to meet the plants' water needs for growth and to avoid water accumulation in the soil, so that root rot does not occur and, in severe cases, the entire plant does not rot away. In many parts of China in August and September, there will still be hail and heavy rain, and in the south there will also be typhoons, severe storms, and other severe weather; in late autumn in the north there will also be frost and cold spells. These can all cause great harm to succulents, and in severe cases even wipe them out completely, destroying plants cultivated for many years in an instant. Therefore, extra care should be taken, weather information should be monitored frequently, and preventive work should be done well to prevent severe weather from harming the plants.
In early November in late autumn, apart from some frost-sensitive varieties that should be moved indoors, other varieties should be kept outdoors as much as possible if temperatures are not too low, so they can be hardened by the cold climate and increase their cold resistance during overwintering. The saying "bundle up in spring, chill in autumn" also applies to plants. If temperatures drop below 10°C, all succulents should be moved indoors. If a cold spell or other severe weather occurs, regardless of whether it is south or north, and regardless of the type of succulent, all should be moved indoors to prevent damage. Before bringing them indoors, insecticide can be sprayed once, and the indoor cultivation site should also be sterilized and treated with insecticide, to kill overwintering pests and harmful pathogens and prevent them from spreading in the greenhouse.
From September to October, repotting and soil changing can be carried out for winter-growing and intermediate type succulents, and seedlings can be divided into separate pots. When repotting, the root system can be pruned, removing rotten, hollow old roots and shortening overly long roots to stimulate vigorous new roots. Newly potted plants should not be given too much water, but air humidity should be appropriately higher, and the plants can be misted frequently to help the root system recover and new roots grow. "Winter-growing type" succulents such as Lithops, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, and Lithops marmorata, as well as certain "intermediate type" varieties, can also be sown, cut, and divided for propagation in September in autumn; some Cactaceae and Euphorbiaceae succulents can also be grafted for propagation from mid-August to late September. For varieties that bloom in autumn, hand pollination should be carried out to obtain seeds for propagation. Because most succulents bloom when the weather is clear and sunlight is ample, pollination should be timed well, and some varieties should be deliberately selected for hybridization. Only in this way can seeds of excellent quality and relatively high germination rate be produced.
★ Winter Care of Succulents
Succulents are extremely diverse in variety and form. According to differences in their habits, they can generally be divided into three types: the winter-growing type, which grows in the cool season in winter and goes dormant during high summer temperatures; the summer-growing type, which grows in the warm season in summer and goes dormant in cold winter; and the "intermediate type," which is dormant or semi-dormant during both high summer temperatures and cold winter, and grows only in spring and autumn. Therefore, winter care should also be carried out according to the different plant types.
Common winter-growing succulent varieties include Liliaceae's Gasteria and Haworthia, Crassulaceae's Crassula, Crassula 'Green Pagoda,' and Pachyphytum, and Aizoaceae's Lithops, Conophytum, Titanopsis, Dinteranthus, and Lithops. Their main growing period is in winter and the relatively cool seasons of early spring and late autumn. The overwintering temperature should preferably be maintained at around 10°C at night and above 20°C during the day. Under these conditions, watering should follow "do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly," avoiding water accumulation in the pot soil to prevent root rot. According to variety differences and growth conditions, apply some well-rotted dilute liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer as appropriate, but do not overapply, to avoid fertilizer damage. If such high temperatures cannot be maintained, then watering should be controlled, but water cannot be completely cut off, and fertilization should be stopped, allowing the plants to go dormant; they can also tolerate low temperatures of around 5°C.
Common summer-growing succulents include Agavaceae's Beaucarnea recurvata, Sansevieria, and Agave; Liliaceae's Aloe; Crassulaceae's Kalanchoe, Echeveria 'Black Prince,' and Kalanchoe; Portulacaceae's Portulacaria afra and Portulacaria afra 'Variegata'; Asclepiadaceae's Dischidia; and Cactaceae's Astrophytum, Astrophytum myriostigma, and Echinocactus grusonii. These plants are dormant in winter and should be kept at 5°C-10°C. Although some varieties will not die even below 5°C, and can even survive around 0°C, the plant surface is prone to developing unsightly yellow spots, affecting appearance and ornamental value. But the temperature should not be too high either; otherwise it will break their dormancy, which is instead unfavorable for growth the following year. Stop fertilization and strictly control watering; some varieties can even have water completely cut off to ensure sufficient dormancy. For example, in Cactaceae varieties such as Echinocactus and Opuntia, if winter temperatures are too high and the soil is damp, the plants cannot fully enter dormancy, which instead affects later flowering.
Intermediate type succulents that grow in spring and autumn mainly include Liliaceae's Haworthia; Crassulaceae's Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop,' Aeonium, and Cotyledon; Aizoaceae's Oscularia and Glottiphyllum; and Cactaceae's Blossfeldia liliputana. Their winter care is relatively easy. At higher temperatures, they can be managed as winter-growing type, allowing the plants to continue growing; if temperatures are lower, they can be managed as summer-growing type, allowing the plants to go dormant, but note that the temperature should not be too low and should preferably be maintained above 5°C.
Regardless of the type of succulent, ample sunlight should be given in winter. Insufficient light will cause varieties in their growing period to become leggy with loose plant forms. In particular, for some globular types, the growing point at the top will suddenly become thin, forming a small protrusion that is approximately conical or cylindrical, seriously affecting ornamental value. This is even more likely when insufficient light is combined with high temperatures and damp pot soil. Varieties in their flowering period may also have difficulty opening their flowers. Therefore, in cultivation, try to avoid environments unfavorable to plant growth. If temperatures are too high and light is insufficient, appropriately lower the temperature and control watering so they grow more slowly, which may instead produce good results. For dormant plants, insufficient light will reduce their cold resistance. They can be managed according to the specific environment. If the cultivation environment has poor light conditions, water should be completely cut off; as long as it is not too shady, they can overwinter safely. In terms of insulation facilities, professional growers have large greenhouses with good insulation and light transmission; home growers can place plants in a relatively sunny south-facing window or an enclosed south-facing balcony, and enthusiasts with the means can also build a small greenhouse or small insulated box on a rooftop or in a courtyard. Relatively speaking, "summer-growing type" plants have slightly higher light requirements, so when placing them they can be positioned closer to the window to increase light exposure.
In winter, watering succulents can be done between 10 and 12 a.m. on clear days, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. You can put your hand in the water; it should not feel ice-cold. For growing plants such as Liliaceae's Haworthia, Sansevieria, and Aloe; Crassulaceae's Aeonium and Echeveria; and Cactaceae's Schlumbergera and Hatiora, a certain air humidity is also needed. In northern households, because indoor heating is used, the air is often too dry, so the plants can be kept in an enclosed glass fish tank to increase air humidity and prevent leaf tips from drying out. Warm water can also be sprayed around the plants, but water droplets should be prevented from remaining on the leaves for a long time, especially near the central growing point of the plant; otherwise it will cause the leaves to rot, and even the whole plant to rot away.
If the insulation facilities are complete and a continuously warm environment can be provided, cutting propagation can also be carried out; of course, this is limited to certain varieties, such as Crassulaceae Echeveria's Echeveria 'Black Prince' and Echeveria 'Chihuahuaensis,' and Liliaceae Haworthia's Haworthia cooperi var. picturata, Haworthia cooperi, and Haworthia truncata.
It is worth mentioning that even for the same type of succulent, care should be carried out according to differences in variety. For example, winter-growing Crassulaceae plants of the genera Crassula and Cotyledon should keep their pot soil moist in winter; while winter-growing Aizoaceae plants of the genera Lithops and Conophytum should have watering appropriately controlled in winter, and the plants should not be misted either. (Author: Dui Baofeng)Author: A Dai
Autumn and Winter Cultivation and Care of Succulents
According to the ecological habits of succulents, they can generally be divided into winter-growing, summer-growing, and spring-autumn types. The so-called winter-growing type goes dormant in summer and grows in winter. The summer-growing type goes dormant in winter and grows in summer. The spring-autumn type goes dormant in summer and winter and grows in spring and autumn.
In September, most succulents enter the second stage of their growing period, so once the pot soil dries out, they should be watered thoroughly. At this time, summer-growing types can reduce shading and ventilation, but top dressing can be added. As for winter-growing types, ventilation and watering should still be maintained.
When the autumn rainy season arrives, for some moisture-sensitive varieties and varieties native to tropical regions, once growth stagnation appears, the plants should be prevented from being directly exposed to rain. In September, sowing, grafting, cutting, and other methods are all quite suitable. For varieties that bloom in winter, repotting can be done at this time. What differs from spring repotting is that the root system does not need extensive pruning.
In October, sunlight is ample and the temperature difference between morning and evening is large. Peony-type plants and some Aizoaceae plants enter their flowering period. The leaves of Crassulaceae plants begin to turn red.
Regardless of whether they are summer-growing or winter-growing varieties, watering should be done as thoroughly as possible before noon. Winter-growing varieties should be given attention to ventilation; only in this way can the plants grow healthily. When the leaves of summer-growing caudiciform plants placed outdoors turn yellow, they should be moved into the greenhouse.
In late October, because temperatures drop, some cold-intolerant varieties should be protected from frost damage. At this time, Lithops and Conophytum can be sown. By November and December, the air becomes dry and daylight hours are relatively shortened, so succulent care should focus mainly on cold protection, insulation, and increasing light. Summer-growing types grown in greenhouses should be given attention to watering, and the best time to water is in the evening. For Lithops and Conophytum whose flowering period has ended, division of the clumps can be carried out at this time.
December represents the arrival of winter. When temperatures drop below zero, varieties with poorer cold resistance should stop being watered, and insulation work should be done well. Use sunny days as much as possible to give the plants sunlight, and rotate the pots from time to time so the plants receive sunlight evenly. If light is insufficient, artificial light sources can be used as a supplement.
January is the coldest month of the year.
However, sunlight in late January is slightly stronger than in December. At this time, winter-growing varieties grow very vigorously, so do not be reluctant to water. Special attention should be paid to thawing the plants: it is best to place the plants in a shaded, dark place so they thaw slowly, which is better than placing them in sunlight. After late January, if high temperatures occur in the greenhouse, seedling scorching often happens. For Lithops and Conophytum, they may turn yellow or even stop growing, so on clear days the greenhouse vents or doors should be opened to maintain air circulation.
By late February, there is already a hint of spring. In places where temperatures are warmer, seedlings can be repotted, which greatly helps their growth. As for small to medium seedlings and mature plants, it is still best to repot them from March to May.
Four-Season Care of Succulents
Succulents themselves are basically made up of water. Plants that can store water themselves can survive even if they are not watered very often. On the contrary, if too much water is given, they cannot hold the excess water and it will cause rot, and they will slowly wither. Therefore, each time you water, pay attention to observing the plant's condition. If the plant becomes thin and shriveled, this is a sign that it needs water; if it already has enough water, then it will look plump. This is a simple way to tell.
Next, how much sunlight the placement location receives is also a very important point. Not only succulents, but all plants cannot survive in places with no light at all. Without light, plants will grow like bean sprouts, frail and weak, and the leaf color will gradually fade. If you want them to maintain a healthy and good appearance, you must definitely give them the most appropriate sunlight. It should be noted that artificial light cannot replace sunlight.
SPRING (March-May)Within a year, most types grow relatively quickly in spring. After temperatures rise, the plant roots become more active, and the soil in the pot dries out relatively quickly. Therefore, water should be replenished actively; once the surface is dry, water thoroughly.
Plants that have been cooped up indoors all winter can also be moved outdoors in this season to fully enjoy the sunlight and the caress of the wind. However, sunlight becomes stronger at this time, and if they are suddenly taken outside, they can still easily get sunburned. You can first choose a cloudy day to take them out, or if taking them out on a sunny day, first cover them with newspaper, and once the plants have adapted to the light, remove it. On days with cold spells or frost, it is still better to put them indoors at night.
SUMMER (June-August)Summer is a season that succulents find relatively difficult to get through. During this period, humidity is higher and there is more moisture in the air; succulents can survive on air moisture alone. Watering can be controlled. However, if the plant is too small, 3 months without water will also cause it to dry up. Therefore, you can judge by the condition of the leaves and choose cool nights to replenish water.
Succulents placed in a room need attention to ventilation; please try not to place them in a sealed room. If the room has air conditioning, it is not a big problem, but air conditioning also puts pressure on plants, so try not to place them directly in the path of the air conditioner outlet.
AUTUMN (September-November)Let those succulents that suffered in summer slowly recover their health. As the weather gradually cools, succulents also begin to slowly show red. First, water the plants; after shriveled leaves absorb water, they will slowly recover and sprout again.
The succulents that were moved to shaded areas in summer to avoid strong sunlight begin to be moved back to places with ample sunlight. If they are kept in a place without sufficient sunlight, the leaves cannot turn a beautiful red. With ample sunlight, you can feel the beautiful colors that autumn brings to succulents.
WINTER (December-February)People have the impression that succulents are not cold-resistant and are not easy to get through winter. When temperatures are low, watering frequency should be reduced to prevent frost damage. With less water, the concentration inside the succulent plant becomes higher, making it less likely to freeze. As in summer, control watering. In particular, cold-intolerant varieties can be not watered at all.
Cold-intolerant varieties will drop their leaves, completely stop growing, and enter dormancy. For these varieties, water can be completely cut off until spring, waiting for new buds to revive. They must overwinter indoors, placed by a window with light, and given as much sunlight as possible. At night, place the plants a little farther from the window to prevent freezing.
Succulent Care Guide
Translation: Qiuhan
This is a comprehensive discussion of care methods, from which you can find answers to most problems. This article starts from a practical perspective and explains how to satisfy and make use of the basic habits of succulents. It is not some simple 1-2-3-4 list of instructions.
The purpose of this article is to teach you how to fish, not to give you a fish. With just a little practical application, you will soon be able to solve problems on your own and grow perfect plants.
Table of Contents
Light and Strategies for Dealing With It
Temperature
Watering
Dormancy
When to Transplant
Key Points of Pot Cultivation
Growing Medium, Nutrition, Containers
Pests
Basic Equipment List
For many people, the biggest obstacle to entering the world of succulents is the Latin nomenclature used to describe the natural world, so much so that they encounter enormous obstacles when collecting and trading plants. But do not shrink back!
Knowing the scientific names of your treasures and the rules for pronouncing them is a required lesson for aspiring enthusiasts. Stop bringing up those common names like "snake plant" and "pencil cactus"; you should call them "Sansevieria" and "Euphorbia." Common names and plant varieties do not correspond one to one, and using them only causes unnecessary confusion.
Through scientific names, you can grasp whether each plant is actually an independent species or a hybrid, and classify it into a larger category, namely the "genus," such as "Pachypodium." Of course, "genera" with similar characteristics also form an even higher level called the "family," such as "Apocynaceae," which includes Pachypodium and Adenium. Genus and species names make up a plant's scientific name, so the so-called "Madagascar palm" should actually be called Pachypodium lamerei, while the "desert rose" has the scientific name Adenium obesum.
When you read these strange names, do not feel embarrassed or shy. No one can avoid mistakes entirely, but with a few more practices, you will surely become familiar with these words. At first, you can watch the TV program "Victory Garden" more often; it uses very standard Latin scientific names.
◆ Light and Strategies for Dealing With It
Undoubtedly, the most important factor in growing perfect plants is light. Succulents need very abundant sunlight, which means south-facing exposure is essential, and it is best if nothing is between the plants and the sunlight except glass or greenhouse film. So-called south-facing exposure means receiving all-day sunlight for most of the year and avoiding being blocked by trees or buildings.
Under ideal conditions, your plants should preferably receive ample south-facing sunlight, and the light should come from a 360-degree direction. Of course, this means a perfectly positioned greenhouse, or an outdoor growing environment in a frost-free climate. Such requirements are unrealistic for most enthusiasts, but that does not mean that first-rate appearance cannot be achieved without them. At this point, a little strategy is necessary.
Your strategy is to give the plants the sunlight they need only when they need it; timing is very important. Many succulents have a dormant period, and during dormancy they do not require the most ideal sunlight environment.
If you grow indoors, it is best to move them outdoors during the growing season and place them under a south-facing window during dormancy.
If you can only be limited to an indoor environment all year round, then you can only compromise. No matter how good your window position is, the plants can only receive sunlight from one direction, and not all succulents can accept such less-than-ideal light.
If you have a greenhouse or can grow outdoors in a frost-free area, then sunlight is not a problem at all. In fact, in the southwestern United States, the light may instead be too intense, and young plants need appropriate shading.
Artificial light sources can indeed keep most (not all) succulents alive, but only at the level of basic survival. For example, plants that have lived under fluorescent tubes for one or two months will be very soft and weak, and their appearance will be far inferior to before. Supplemental lighting is best used only as a supplementary light source for indoor cultivation in winter.
Of course, for winter-growing varieties, providing ample light during the growing season is even more problematic, but this is not impossible either.
How can you tell whether your plants are receiving sufficient light? This depends on whether their form is compact, whether the distance between leaves is very short, and whether the leaves are short, thick, firm, and not drooping. Varieties with rosette-shaped leaves, such as Echeveria, should have a compact form; thick, fleshy varieties such as Lithops should be short and sturdy with vivid colors, not puffed up and weak.This is a negative example of a good variety under poor light.
These two Pachypodium horombense are the same age. The one on the right enjoys ample sunlight, while the one on the left has become leggy due to lack of light. This kind of pathological legginess can never be reversed.
Succulents that are very sensitive to light include Crassulaceae (Echeveria, Crassula, Graptopetalum, Kalanchoe, Sedum, etc.), Aizoaceae (Lithops, Conophytum, etc.), and Apocynaceae (Pachypodium, Adenium). Those with lower light requirements include Liliaceae (Aloe, Haworthia), many Euphorbiaceae varieties, Sansevieria, and Asclepiadaceae.
If you want to grow top-quality beautiful plants, light is the most important thing. Nothing reflects a grower's incompetence more than a leggy succulent. Legginess is irreversible unless you behead it and start over. Therefore, once it becomes leggy, that succulent is ruined. Study your growing environment carefully and be sure to find a suitable light supply strategy; this is irreplaceable. [Experience Book]
◆ Temperature
Many succulents sold on the market are not cold-resistant. Although some Agave and Sedum species can tolerate slight frost to some degree, they are not frost-hardy.
The minimum temperature we give plants all year round is 55°F (about 12°C), and for some sensitive varieties we maintain it above 60°F (15°C).
The maximum temperature depends on the weather. Most succulents can adapt well to 100°F (38°C). Prolonged high temperatures at most cause them to go dormant.
Of course, excessively high temperatures will still damage the plants, especially in fully sunlit growing environments such as greenhouses. At this time, good air circulation is essential. Hot, stagnant air can quickly kill succulents.
◆ Watering
The timing and amount of watering has always been a controversial topic. Although this is a very basic element of growing succulents that everyone must go through, it is also very complex. The key is that watering needs to match your growing environment and habits; other people's experience cannot be copied rigidly. You must observe carefully; watering is the kind of thing that only you can help yourself with.
Basically, when you water matters more than how much you water, and when depends on your environment. If your growing conditions are ideal and your medium is scientifically sound, most potted plants will dry out within a few days. So the first rule is: never let a potted plant dry out to the point of smoking. Really. Water, and when the plant has used up all the water you gave it, water again.
How do you know the plant has used up its water? Lift the pot. If it feels very light, water thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. With just a little experience, you will be able to tell by eye whether a plant needs water.
Do not think of watering as an exact science, where every drop must be precisely measured. It is not that strict. Make sure your plants have water to drink, then forget about it. It is true that some succulents are very sensitive to how much water they get, but as long as you observe more and accumulate experience, you will soon be able to handle them well.
When watering, be sure to use a good nozzle, or pour the water gently. This prevents the water from washing away the substrate and damaging the roots. And never, for the sake of checking the moisture of the potting soil, insert anything into the pot, including your finger or any strange object (translator's note: such as a toothpick). This is a bad habit. The roots of succulents are very delicate, and inserting things will only injure the roots, and injured roots rot easily.
◆ Dormancy
The dormant period is a dangerous time for succulents, and somewhat mysterious for growers. Many plants die during or shortly after dormancy, mostly because they were too dry or not carefully monitored during dormancy.
Dormancy is part of their life cycle. When light and temperature are no longer suitable for them to be active, they need to rest in order to maintain a healthy state. Your task is to accompany them through this period.
The first sign that a plant is entering dormancy is that it stops growing. Then the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off, and the rosette closes up. Some types of succulents (such as the mesembs) retract their entire body into the soil and grow a papery outer skin to protect themselves.In October, this Pachypodium densiflorum (a summer-growing type) showed signs of dormancy, with leaves falling from the bottom.This Haworthia cooperi (a winter-growing type) enters dormancy in June, and its rosette closes.
Although it cannot be seen from the outside, the plant is not actually idle during dormancy. Transpiration continues, and the water supply cannot stop. Their roots need a certain amount of moisture, so the soil cannot be kept completely dry, otherwise the roots will die of dryness. For slow-growing varieties, signs of decline may not appear until early spring. What you do to them in winter will come back to haunt you in April or May, although this revenge may be delayed by several months.
So how should you water during dormancy? Again, it depends on your growing environment, that is, how quickly the potting soil dries out. If winters where you are are relatively cold and there is heating indoors, the soil will dry out quickly, so watering once or twice a week is reasonable. If you live in a mild climate, perhaps watering every other week is more suitable. The key is to water, wait until the moisture has completely disappeared, that is, when the pot becomes light but has not yet dried to the point of smoking, then water again.
So how should plants that are dormant in summer be cared for? Since these guys choose to sleep during the hottest time of the year, the potting soil dries out faster than in winter, and they need more frequent watering. Generally speaking, in summer you can water twice for summer-growing types and once for winter-growing types. But again, this depends entirely on your environment. In especially hot weather, they may even need watering every day.
Note that you cannot control whether a plant goes dormant by adjusting how much water you give. Of course, there is one exception, namely the saying that "succulents should be completely cut off from water during dormancy." If you really do that, then of course they will go dormant, and they will never wake up.
To better understand the dormancy of your plants, it is very important to know when they go dormant. According to their nature, succulents can be divided into summer-growing types (grow in summer, dormant in winter) and winter-growing types (grow in winter, dormant in summer). The table below lists the dormancy times of common genera, but individual varieties may be exceptions.
Dormancy Schedule
Dormant in winter, growing in summer - summer-growing types
This group of succulents is often called summer-growing types. They grow in the Northern Hemisphere and are dormant from November to February of the following year. But during the hottest part of summer, they also enter a false dormancy. False dormancy usually lasts several weeks, and then in September and October they have another big burst of growth.
Adenia
Adenium
Agave
Alluaudia
Brachystelma
Bursera
Calibanus
Ceropegia
Cissus
Cyphostemma
Didieria
Dorstenia
Echeveria
Encephalartos
Euphorbia
Ficus Fockea
Huernia
Ibervillea
IpomoeaJ
athropha
Lithops
Monadenium
Moringa
Operculicarya
Pachypodium
Pedilanthus
Plumeria
Pseudolithos
Pterodiscus
Raphionacme
Siningia
Stapelianthus
Synadenium
Tillandsia
Trichocaulon
Trichodiadema
Xerosicyos
Dormant in summer, growing in winter - winter-growing types
Usually called "winter-growing types," these genera go dormant when it is warm, from May to August. Their growing season is actually in spring and autumn, and growth slows significantly in winter. Many varieties also show slight growth in summer, especially the lily family and Crassulaceae plants.
Adromischus
Aeonium
Aloe
Anacampseros
Astroloba
Avonia
Bowiea
Bulbine
Ceraria
Conophytum
Cotyledon
Crassula
Dioscorea
Dudleya
Fouqueria
Gasteria
Gibbaeum
Graptopetalum
Graptoveria
Haemanthus
Haworthia
Kalanchoe
Neohenricia
Othonna
Pachycormus
Pachyphytum
Pachyveria
Pelargonium
Peperomia
Portulacaria
Sansevieria
Sarcocaulon
Sedeveria
Sedum
Senecio
Stomatium
Talinum
Tylecodon
◆ Timing for repotting
Repotting, pruning, beheading or any other practice that physically changes the plant must take dormancy seriously into account. Succulents are very different from many other plants and do not want to be disturbed at all during dormancy. Some very slow-growing varieties are especially sensitive, and ill-timed repotting can be fatal.
If you want to repot, you must wait until you see signs of plant growth before doing it. Pruning should be done when the growing season is about to begin. For summer-growing types, March is a good time, and for winter-growing types, August. But some tough varieties can be repotted or pruned at any time of the year.
Key points for potting
Potting succulents is very different from potting other plants. Whether the size of the container is appropriate has a great effect on the plant's appearance. A common misconception is that you want to use a large pot to give the roots plenty of room to grow, thinking that this will make them grow faster and better. In fact, the opposite is true. Many succulents actually slow down their growth rate under such conditions. Some slow-growing rare varieties may even stop growing completely, because they simply do not like sitting in so much damp soil. Many experienced growers have already been rethinking this issue and have given up using oversized containers.
When repotting, it is enough to increase the pot size by only 0.5 inches (1.27 cm). For large pots of 5 inches (12.7 cm) or more, an upgrade of 1 inch (2.54 cm) is also sufficient. If you use an oversized container, the growth of the roots and the rest of the plant will be disproportionate, causing energy to be spent on branches and leaves. Some plants have crowns that are too large, weak branches, and floppy leaves, and you can tell at a glance that the pot is too big.
The size of the container is very important to the plantThe Cissus tuberosa on the left has been sitting in a 3 inch (7.62 cm) pot for four years, and it has grown a sturdy stem. The one on the right came from the same mother plant as the one on the left and was cut at the same time, but it was planted in a 4 inch (10.16 cm) pot from the start.
When repotting, try to avoid damaging the roots. Usually, the roots cling tightly to the soil and form a ball. Just leave it like that. Do not treat it like a tropical plant and pull all the soil off or untangle the root system, as this will only cause the plant to decline and can easily lead to fatal root rot. Also do not put old potting soil or gravel at the bottom of the pot; in fact, this will cause the root tips to decline. Simply covering the drainage holes with mesh (window screen, insect netting) is enough.
◆ Growing medium, nutrition and containers
Growing medium - growing medium is the term used in horticulture for the material plants are grown in, and its selection has always been controversial. Those strange formulas and contradictory recommendations always leave beginners completely confused. To grow beautiful plants, a good medium is very important. Do not think that what you put in the pot is just so-called "soil."
Should you buy a pre-mixed medium from a supplier, or mix your own? Of course, buy one that is pre-mixed. Please note that we are talking about professional products here, not some "succulent soil" sold in discount stores. The process of manufacturing growing media is very complex, and it is best left to professional manufacturers. If you want to mix your own medium, remember that there are many issues we usually do not think of.
In the last 15 years, commercially sold media have made great progress and have moved toward being soilless. These media have a wide variety of formulas, among which mixing in bark is the best. Nowadays very few people use media mixed with garden soil. Who can blame them, when soilless media are so easy to use?
Simply put, the substrate of a soilless formula is made of evenly sized particles to ensure healthy plant growth, and then nutrients are added in liquid or solid form. The substrate scientifically mixes composted bark (not landscaping bark), horticultural-grade peat (no more than 20%), perlite (baked pumice), vermiculite, and additives used to adjust soil pH. It does not contain any garden soil or aggregate.
Two important criteria for judging whether a substrate is excellent are drainage and weight. Legend has it that a good succulent medium must allow all water to drain away quickly and retain no water, in order to avoid root rot. You can of course choose a medium that dries especially fast to prevent rot, but this also prevents normal plant growth. A medium with excessive drainage will make your succulents grow as slowly as glaciers move. A good medium must retain a certain amount of moisture and nutrients, and one that dries too fast cannot meet this standard.
Very heavy substrates are bad and should be avoided at all costs. Root growth and function require breathing, and breathing requires oxygen. A good medium allows oxygen to enter the soil and carbon dioxide and other waste gases to escape, so it is very light in weight. Good breathing is necessary for developing strong and robust roots, and is also an essential element for maintaining plant health.
Heavy media suffocate the roots. They are usually aggregates and must be avoided. Common aggregates include sand, gravel, montmorillonite and pumice. Horticultural pumice is relatively commonly used as a growing medium in the southwestern United States because it is readily available. The climate in these regions is hot, and plants grown in pumice dry out quickly enough. But for milder regions, such as the northern and eastern United States, pumice is too heavy and retains too much water. The structure of pumice is hollow and stores water easily. By comparison, perlite is much better because its structure is closed.
For hobbyists, finding a suitable soilless medium is very difficult. Some well-stocked nurseries do sell growing media, but it is best to ask local commercial greenhouses. The owners of these greenhouses are usually experienced plant enthusiasts, and they are generally quite willing to sell you a bag or two.
Their medium is designed for greenhouse potting, and a little perlite needs to be added for use with succulents. You can try mixing three parts medium with one part perlite. You do not need to change the basic ratio of the medium, and do not add too much perlite. Definitely do not add other ingredients, such as garden soil or aggregates, otherwise you will destroy the concept of a soilless medium.
There is another creative way to think about growing media, namely to leave some margin for error in watering. People often hear that different environments need different media, but in fact a good medium is good under any conditions. If your plants often die unexpectedly, you should seriously reflect on whether there is a problem with your medium. Change the medium ratio step by step, first experimenting with a few plants, until you are familiar with the effects of the various materials.
Nutrition - Providing some nutrition during the growing season is necessary, then gradually reduce the nutrient supply, and do not fertilize during dormancy. It is best to mix in some soluble liquid fertilizer each time you water.
Choose a reliable commercial brand for fertilizer, such as Peters, and do not use counterfeit or cheap products. Good fertilizers are usually sold in garden stores and come in many different formulas. For succulents, 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 formulas work quite well. Some fertilizers have trace elements added and are specially designed for soilless media, which is very useful. If you choose the method of applying a weak fertilizer solution with every watering, using one quarter of the standard concentration each time is enough, and this can provide 50 ppm of nitrogen. If you fertilize less frequently, adjust to a higher concentration.
An alternative to the method of applying weak fertilizer with every watering is slow-release fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizer can be buried in the medium or sprinkled on the soil surface, and its effect can last for a period of time. Reliable brands include Nutricote and Osmocote's 13-13-13, 180-day formula.
Not all succulents need fertilizer. Many varieties look floppy and unhealthy after fertilizing, not as good as when grown in a poor medium. These varieties include most Crassulaceae (Echeveria, Crassula, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.), almost all Aizoaceae (Lithops, etc.) and Senecio.
Containers - As said earlier, the right container size is very important. But should you use plastic pots or terracotta pots? Many people think this is purely an aesthetic issue, but it is far from that.
Plants simply grow better in plastic pots, because plastic pots retain water better. If you use terracotta pots, then you need to water three to four times as often as with plastic pots, because terracotta pots dry out far too quickly, especially small ones.
Many growers use plastic pots when they need pots of 6 inches (15.24 cm) and below, and terracotta pots for 6 inches (15.24 cm) and above, and this method works very well. In addition, roots develop better in round pots than in square pots. Most importantly, all containers must have drainage holes.
◆ Pests
Fortunately, succulents do not attract pests too badly. Fungal and viral infections are also rare, so you only need to firmly monitor the pest situation. Plants and insects are natural good buddies. As long as you have plants, there will inevitably be insects. If you find some kind of insect on your plants, do not panic. Just keep the pest problem under control. Completely eliminating insects is almost impossible.
So far, the most common and most persistent pest on succulents is the ubiquitous mealybug. There are many species of mealybugs, and those that like succulents are usually the citrus mealybug and the greenhouse mealybug. Their adults are about one eighth of an inch (3 mm) in size, with a white powdery outer covering. Their larvae form white fluffy masses on the undersides of leaves and also squeeze into tender new leaves wherever they can. They secrete a sticky honeydew that attracts many other insects to carry their larvae to other plants, such as ants. Pay attention to the presence of ants, and in this way you will naturally be able to monitor other pests as well.Mealybugs are the number one enemy of succulents, and once infected, they can easily break out over a large area. Carefully watch the undersides of leaves, new leaves and flowers. If you do not look carefully, you may miss hundreds of tiny larvae hiding there.
Mealybugs are easy to control. As long as you do not just leave them alone, they are rarely fatal. Mites, scale insects and whiteflies occasionally also attack succulents, causing greater trouble, and they are difficult to remove. Mites are actually not insects. They like to suck plant sap and often appear in hot, dry places. If there are many water-stressed plants in a poorly ventilated greenhouse, that is simply their paradise. Scale insects and whiteflies are very stubborn, and unless you strike during a specific stage of their life cycle, they are difficult to eradicate. There is a lot of information on the prevention and control of these pests, and with a little effort you can identify and control them well. The internet and local agricultural technicians are good sources of help.
Convenient pest control - A cotton swab dipped in alcohol can harmlessly remove a small number of mealybugs. But a severely infested plant may have hundreds of tiny insects on it, especially near the growing point. At this point, try blasting them with water, using an adjustable nozzle and a hose with a shutoff valve. A few minutes of pulse rinsing with tap water is enough to clean most plants inside and out. This method can even remove scale insects with their damned waxy surfaces, which are usually very difficult to drive away.An adjustable nozzle is a powerful tool for giving plants a bath, and it works wonders against insects, weeds and withered leaves alike. Paired with a hose with a trigger switch, you will be invincible against pests.
Adjustable nozzles are not expensive and can be bought in any garden supply store. Choose the blue 4 gallon per minute high-power product. You can even use a bathroom showerhead in an emergency, but a rubber hose is more common. This may sound too simple, but as long as you try it, you will know how useful it is.
Chemical control - If the situation gets out of control and you have to deal with several severely infested plants at the same time, chemical treatment is necessary. The first rule is never, I repeat, never use petrochemical products on succulents. These things are usually labeled "liquid" this or that, marked "EC" or just with an "E." EC chemical products can severely burn succulents and are strictly forbidden. Systemic insecticides have recently become popular, but making the entire plant toxic also exposes the grower to chemical pesticides, and many growers feel this is unsafe.
Many wettable powder and water-based suspension insecticides can be safely used on succulents. But which one to use depends on the type of pest, and you will have to do your own homework on that. It is not enough to just listen to the advice of garden stores or friends. When trying new products, proceed gradually, and never apply an untested pesticide to your entire collection. Try it on a few plants first.
Finally, if you are a very enthusiastic collector and always buy plants from different sources, then your collection will inevitably bring in new pests frequently. A handheld magnifying glass or a 6-10x loupe is a must, so that you can better inspect new and old plants one by one.
◆ Basic equipment list
Watering - A watering device with a gentle flow is recommended, but a hose or watering can will also do. We like to use a hose with adjustable flow and a nozzle specially designed for potted plants. This kind of nozzle has a short wand and can produce a very gentle stream, and it is sold in many garden supply stores.
Tweezers - A small pair of tweezers is invaluable, and gardening-specific tweezers are of course even better.
Magnifying glass - A 4-10x magnifying glass is enough. Whether it is a simple magnifying glass or an optical microscope, it is essential for pest control and studying plants.
Labels - It is important to label each plant with its family and genus, variety, purchase date and source. If you unfortunately lose a true love, with this information you can at least get another one. Writing on plastic labels with pencil can last a long time, while sunlight will blur labels made of other materials.
Transplanting tools - Good trays and shovels are very useful. The large trays used in restaurants are very handy, and you can get them from any restaurant. We like to use the size that just holds 1 cubic foot of medium.
Containers - Always have a reliable source for buying pots. Whether you prefer plastic pots or terracotta pots, keep a little of every size at intervals of every half inch (1.27 cm) in diameter.