Environmental requirements and propagation and cultivation methods for Serissa
The scientific name of Serissa is Serissa serissoides. It blooms between June and July, with small white flowers covering the branches like a layer of snowflakes, hence the name "June snow" (Serissa). It is native to the provinces south of the Yangtze River in China, prefers sunlight but is also fairly shade-tolerant, and is not strict about temperature, able to adjust its own growth habits according to winter temperatures
The scientific name of Serissa is Serissa serissoides. It blooms between June and July, with small white flowers covering the branches like a layer of snowflakes, hence the name "June snow" (Serissa). It is native to the provinces south of the Yangtze River in China, prefers sunlight but is also fairly shade-tolerant, and is not strict about temperature, able to adjust its own growth habits according to winter temperatures. For example, in the subtropical region of South China it remains evergreen in winter and can continue growing; in the warm temperate region south of the Yangtze River it enters a semi-dormant state in winter and growth stops. It has no special requirements for soil and is highly drought-tolerant, growing rapidly in moist acidic soil.
Serissa rarely sets seed after flowering. Cuttings can be taken from March to April using two-year-old hard wood, or from June to July using one-year-old soft shoots, and the survival rate is very high either way. It is a traditional plant material for making stump bonsai. To make the bonsai look ancient and simple, it is best to dig up perennial old stumps from the hills and wilds of the Jiangnan region and plant them in pots; root-sucker shoots sprouting around old stumps can also be divided and planted.
Serissa is robust and highly adaptable. In spring, summer and autumn it should be kept in sunlight. If displayed indoors, ventilation must be strengthened, otherwise the branches will grow leggy, the leaves will turn yellow, and the lower leaves will drop. In the dry season, water should be sprayed frequently to raise air humidity. To control plant height, fertilize at most twice a year. If it is not to be displayed for continued viewing in winter, it can be placed in a cold room and allowed to drop its leaves and go dormant; prune once the following spring to encourage new branches and leaves. If it is to continue being displayed in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 8°C, and it should receive ample light. New side branches should be cut back and pinched promptly to maintain a full, rounded plant shape.
The complete guide to orchid cultivation and growing techniques
I. Location
The location where orchids are placed is very important, as it directly affects their growth and development. Orchids are generally placed outdoors in spring, summer and autumn (in a shaded spot outdoors in summer), and indoors in winter. Outdoors, it is best to have open space on all sides and moist air. Indoors, there should be ample light, ideally facing south. This is favorable for orchid growth. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden stands or tables, not on the ground.
II. Shading
Most orchids are semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight, so appropriate shading is needed. In early to mid-April, orchids can receive more sunlight to promote growth. After late April, appropriate shading is needed. Among summer orchids and autumn orchids, varieties with upright leaves are best placed on the south side of a shaded area so they receive a suitable amount of sunlight; for drooping-leaf autumn orchids and spring orchids, two hours of light per day is best. From the beginning of June to September, shading should be started earlier each day; for example, with reed blinds, use dense blinds or two layers of sparse blinds. After October, when the weather turns cooler and sunlight is weaker, shading can be delayed, but around midday attention should still be paid to providing shade.
III. Rain protection
Orchids can tolerate light rain, but must be protected from plum rains, showers or continuous rain. During the plum rain season, rain protection work must be done especially well. From late June to mid-September, there are often showers. If the rain is short in duration and light in amount, more water should be given in the evening to let the heat out of the pot, otherwise the orchids will be damaged, or even suffer root rot and die. If a shower is followed by sunshine, shade must be provided promptly to prevent heat rising from the ground from affecting orchid growth. The rainy season coincides with the stage when orchids are putting out leaf buds. If the potting soil is too wet, it will cause poor leaf bud growth or lead to disease. At this time, a small amount of plant ash can be scattered to regulate the moisture of the potting soil.
IV. Watering
A flower proverb says: "Dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums," and there is some truth to this. Generally speaking, orchids do best with eight parts dry and two parts wet. If too wet, the flowers easily rot and the plant dies. The principle of watering should be: water when dry, stop when wet, and keep slightly on the dry side. In practice, the following should generally be noted: during the growing period (May to the end of June), water appropriately more; during the leaf bud emergence stage (about March to April) and the flowering stage (about March to April), water appropriately less; during the dormant period (winter), water even less or not at all. If the pot is large and the orchid plant is small, water less; if the pot is small and the plant is large, water more. In hot, dry weather, water appropriately more; in cool, humid conditions (such as the plum rain season), water less or not at all. Newly dug orchids from the mountains, if they have few roots or many broken roots, should be watered less to keep the potting soil a bit dry; this prevents root rot and favors the emergence of new leaves. The ancients' experience that "do not let them dry in autumn, do not keep them wet in winter" is a very good summary of how to water spring orchids and summer orchids. However, in some northern regions, because the climate in winter and early spring is too dry, orchids should not be allowed to become excessively dry either. Watering time: in summer and autumn, water after sunset so the orchid leaves dry before nightfall, or water in the early morning; in winter and spring, water around sunrise. Do not suddenly water with cold water after scorching sun exposure, lest the soil temperature drop, affecting root water uptake and disrupting physiological balance. The amount of water should not be too large, to help suppress disease occurrence.
Watering method: water should be poured in from the edge of the pot, and must not be poured into the flower buds, to avoid causing rot.
The ancients had a very good summary of experience on watering orchids. For example, Yu Zhao in "Dumen Yulan Ji" proposed different watering methods according to the twenty-four solar terms within a year, excerpted below for reference. But two points should be noted: first, "Dumen Yulan Ji" is based on Beijing's climate; second, the months in the text refer to the lunar calendar, not the Gregorian calendar, so "first month" is actually February in the Gregorian calendar.
1. Start of Spring, Rain Water: spring orchids have already set flowers, the soil should not be too dry; moisten slightly along the edge of the pot; if the autumn orchid pot has not dried to the bottom, do not water.
2. Awakening of Insects: when the spring orchid pot is dry to half the pot (empty above, firm below), it can be moistened, but not much; autumn orchids same as before.
3. Spring Equinox: spring orchids have finished flowering and should avoid moisture; when the pot is half dry, it can be moistened.
4. Pure Brightness, Grain Rain: do not let the potting soil become too dry; moisten every 5 days.
5. Start of Summer: orchids begin to be moved out of the room; water thoroughly once.
6. Grain Full: do not let the potting soil be too dry or too wet; spots appearing on leaves means too wet, and withered tips of new shoots means too dry; water one liter (about a dry teacup) every 4 days, so that the lower 2/3 of the potting soil from the bottom up is moist.
7. Grain in Ear: the climate is dry, so pay even more attention to avoiding too dry or too wet conditions.
8. Summer Solstice: the potting soil must not be too dry; if heavy rain occurs, it can only be endured for one day; if there are successive days of cloudy rain, the pot must be moved to a ventilated place.
9. Minor Heat: at this time the air is too humid, and the potting soil must not be too wet; the pot should be placed in a ventilated place; if it is hot and dry with little rain, water one liter every 2 days; after heavy rain or one heavy wetting, you must wait until 2/3 of the potting soil is dry, otherwise do not water again.
10. Major Heat: the potting soil easily dries all the way through; note that only one heavy rain or one heavy wetting per day is appropriate.
11. Start of Autumn: orchids need water at this time; water 2 liters every 3 days, and it is also advisable to shelter them from wind.
12. End of Heat: water once every 5 days; except during successive days of hazy rain, they can be allowed to receive rain and dew.
13. White Dew: autumn orchids need frequent watering even more than spring orchids, but after wetting they must dry out greatly before they can be wetted again.
14. Autumn Equinox: if autumn orchids have already produced flowers, water slightly less; if they have not produced flowers, water slightly more.
15. Cold Dew: autumn orchids should be watered thoroughly; spring orchids should not be watered thoroughly but kept moist.
16. Frost's Descent: orchids should be moved indoors; watering time changes to midday, and after watering they should be placed in the midday sun for 1-2 hours.
17. Start of Winter: only moisten, about half a liter every 5 days.
18. Minor Snow: the flower room should avoid warmth and should not be too humid; if too humid it can cause root rot, spotted leaves and even withering; if the pot has not dried to the bottom, only slightly moisten the soil surface.
19. Major Snow: autumn orchids need no water; spring orchids should be slightly moistened.
20. Winter Solstice: neither should be irrigated.
21. Minor Cold: watering is taboo for both.
22. Major Cold: autumn orchids still need no water; spring orchids can be slightly moistened with water.
V. Fertilizing
Whether to fertilize orchids should be decided based on their growth condition. Those growing luxuriantly and free of disease can be fertilized; those growing poorly should not be fertilized or only lightly fertilized. Newly dug orchids from the mountains must absolutely not be fertilized before new roots have emerged; they need 1-2 years of cultivation, and only when the new roots are vigorous can they be fertilized, otherwise they are prone to withering and dying.
Generally speaking, in June-July, when orchid leaf buds have elongated to about 1.5 cm, 1-2 applications of thin, fully decomposed liquid fertilizer may be given (chemical fertilizers are not suitable), but fertilization is not suitable in high-temperature seasons. In August-September, apply 1-2 more applications of decomposed thin liquid fertilizer. For plain-hearted orchid varieties, 1-2 applications of plant ash extract can be given with very good results. Fertilization is best done in the evening, and the next morning water once with clear water.
A relatively simple way to tell whether orchids need fertilizing is to look at the depth of leaf color. If the leaves are yellow and thin, they lack fertilizer and should be top-dressed; if the leaves are dark and the leaf tips are scorched, there has been too much fertilizer and fertilization should be stopped.
For fertilizer, the various methods introduced above can be used to make homemade fertilizer. When applying these fertilizers, they need to be diluted with 8-9 times water, and must not be too concentrated. When fertilizing, apply it to the root zone of the plant, and never to the leaf surface. The main fertilization times and dates for orchids: Times Dates Category First time Second time Third time Fourth time Notes
Spring orchid types: late June, mid-July, mid-August, early September; the fourth time should be especially thin.
Summer orchid types: late June, mid-July, mid-August, early September; the fourth time should be especially thin.
Autumn orchid types: early June, late June, late July, mid-August; the fourth time should be especially thin.
VI. Pruning
During orchid cultivation, pruning must be carried out continuously. When old leaves turn yellow and wither, they should be cut off promptly to improve ventilation, and some leaves whose tips have dried should also be cut off. In particular, leaves damaged by pests and diseases must be removed promptly to prevent spread. When cutting off leaves with viral disease, the scissors used should not then be used to cut healthy leaves, to prevent virus transmission. If the same pair of scissors is used, it must be disinfected. For precious orchids, after the flower buds emerge from the soil, if there are too many flower buds, keep the strong buds and remove the rest of the thin, small flower buds; keeping 1-2 flower buds per pot is appropriate. If there are too many flower buds, it will not only make that year's flowers bloom poorly, but also consume too much of the parent plant's nutrients and affect next year's flowering. Generally, orchids need not have their flower buds removed. Spring orchid flowers bloom for about half a month, after which the flowers should be cut off; for summer orchid flowers, when the last flower on the inflorescence has been open for one week, the inflorescence should also be cut off. Precious varieties should not be allowed to be pollinated and set seed, otherwise it will affect the next year's flowering. If they are used for hybrid breeding, then they need extra careful cultivation so that the fruit becomes plump and ripe.
VII. Cold protection
Autumn orchids should be protected from cold early; for example, when the temperature is 2-3°C, they can be moved indoors. Cymbidium kanran, growing in the south, needs even earlier cold protection. Spring and summer orchids have relatively strong cold resistance, but if freezing occurs they must also be moved indoors promptly. If the room temperature can be kept at 1-2°C, they can overwinter. If a severe cold wave strikes and the room temperature drops below zero, heating must be provided promptly; generally it is enough to keep the room from freezing. Indoors, autumn orchids should be placed on the south-facing side, and spring and summer orchids on the other side. Around midday, windows facing south and southeast should be opened for ventilation (autumn orchids should not have windows opened on cloudy days at 1-2°C, to prevent cold wind from injuring the leaves). Autumn orchids prefer to be somewhat dry in winter, while the potting soil of other orchids should be kept moist.
VIII. Flower removal
For orchids growing poorly, with few leaves per clump, or with poor roots, the flowers should be removed. For better varieties, spring orchids may appropriately have 1-2 flower buds removed; for summer orchids, when the buds have elongated, keep 1-2 buds and remove the rest; this way the flowers can last longer, more new leaves can emerge, and old leaves are less likely to wither and die. For precious spring orchids, the flowers should be removed after 3-5 days of blooming, so that the leaf buds grow robustly; for summer orchids, when the topmost flower has opened, the inflorescence can be cut off at a point centimeters above the pot surface.
IX. Flood prevention
If the cultivation site is open on all sides and at a relatively high elevation, wind protection work must be done in summer when strong winds or typhoons pass through, to prevent the leaves of summer orchids or Cymbidium kanran from being broken and damaged.
X. Mist spraying
In dry seasons, spray every evening on the balcony where the potted flowers are placed, mainly to moisten the ground and increase air humidity. The pot surface of orchids should also be sprayed. When spraying, spray upward so that the mist falls finely and evenly, moistening the leaf surface; this can promote good orchid growth and give the leaves a glossy appearance.
XII. Pest and disease control
Sterilization treatment should be carried out (exposure under strong sun is sufficient) to prevent disease occurrence. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons; it can be prevented by spraying with 800-fold thiophanate-methyl solution or Bordeaux mixture. If the disease is severe, use 500-750-fold thiophanate-methyl dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days. Among insect pests, scale insects occur most frequently; this insect attaches to the base of the leaves, and if scale insects are found, they should be removed promptly. To avoid scale insect infestation, starting in April, "1059" at 2000-fold dilution can be used for control. To suppress the occurrence of orchid diseases, in addition to appropriately controlling the dryness and wetness of the potting soil at ordinary times, clay pots should be used as much as possible and glazed pots used less. In particular, poorly growing newly dug orchids from the mountains must be planted in clay pots. Doing so makes the potting soil dry easily, which can promote orchid growth and reduce disease occurrence.
How should orchids be grown well?
1. Potting soil requirements: a neutral to slightly acidic soil rich in humus, loose and well-drained is best, with a pH generally around 5.5 to 6.5. In Sichuan, Emei Xiantu and "Xinghong brand" refined orchid growing medium are often used, and more commonly "bamboo root soil" and leaf mold from broad-leaved forests in mountainous areas are used to grow orchids.
2. Placement location: orchids can be cultivated outdoors and on balconies in spring, summer and autumn, and a place with good ventilation, moist air, and no environmental pollution should be chosen. Being near a pond or riverside is of course good; at minimum there should be tall trees or bamboo groves and shade netting to reduce sunlight exposure and lower temperature. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden stands (or steel stands); if placed on the ground, bricks should be used as a base. A home balcony can also use a small galvanized iron water tank to store water with bricks placed on top for cultivation, increasing humidity.
3. Appropriate shading: most orchids are semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight, so appropriate shading is needed. In early to mid-April, orchids can have the net removed and windows opened to receive more sunlight and promote growth. In May, aside from the midday sun, they can receive 6 hours of light; from June onward, provide shade all day, and after October, aside from midday, they can be kept fully open. Remember the proverb: "More shade gives good leaves, more sun gives good flowers."
4. Reasonable fertilization: orchids are inherently "vegetarian," and fertilization should depend on the chosen potting soil and growth condition. Those growing luxuriantly and free of disease can be fertilized; those growing poorly should not be fertilized or only lightly fertilized. Newly potted orchids whose roots have not fully developed must be fertilized only after 1-2 years. Generally, in June-July, when orchid leaf buds have elongated to about 1.5 cm, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every three weeks (a thin concentration of 10% is suitable). Chemical fertilizers are taboo; in high-temperature seasons fertilization is not suitable. In August-September, apply diluted liquid fertilizer once every two to three weeks. Each fertilization of orchids is best done in the evening, and in the morning water with clear water, called "return water."
5. Appropriate watering: rainwater and spring water are best for orchids; tap water or rice-washing water should be left overnight before use. When watering, pour from the edge of the pot, and do not pour into the flower buds. The amount of water should be determined according to temperature, the dryness and wetness of the potting soil, and the growth condition of the orchid. Water more when leaves are large, and less when leaves are fine. In April-May, when new shoots have not yet emerged from the soil, the potting soil should be somewhat dry; if too wet, new shoots rot easily. June-September is the growth period for new orchid shoots, and the amount of water should be increased; on sunny days, water once each morning or once daily, and absolutely avoid watering under the scorching midday sun. In autumn, reduce the amount of water as appropriate; leaf-surface misting can be used, and keeping the potting soil moist is best. In winter, water should be controlled even more, keeping it at "eight parts dry, two parts wet."
6. Evening misting: orchids originally grow in humid air, so in dry seasons, in addition to shading, misting must also be done in the evening to increase air humidity and lower temperature; water can also be poured on the ground (table surface) where the potted orchids are placed; "one cold and one hot" can further stimulate orchid growth.
7. Wind and rain protection: "February ghost wind" causing old leaves to yellow and fall is a normal phenomenon, and withered branches and dead leaves can be cut off. Orchids can tolerate light rain, but must avoid plum rains, heavy rain or continuous rain, otherwise the heart and leaves rot easily. In rainy seasons, a small amount of plant ash can be scattered appropriately.
8. Pruning and flower removal: during orchid cultivation, withered, yellow, broken and diseased leaves should be cut off frequently to improve ventilation. For precious orchids, if there are too many flower buds, keep only the strong buds; 1-2 flower buds per pot is appropriate. Spring orchid flowers should be removed after half a month of blooming; precious orchids should be removed after 7 days, so that spring orchid leaf buds grow robustly and bloom better the following year. For summer orchids, when the last flower on the inflorescence has been open for one week, cut it off 3 cm above the pot surface.
9. Cold protection and warmth: because orchid varieties differ, their places of origin vary, and their cold resistance is also different, so the time to move them indoors in winter and their indoor placement also differ. Cymbidium kanran, autumn orchids, and Cymbidium sinense grow in the south, and should be moved indoors (or have windows closed and netting drawn) when the temperature is 5°C, and placed in a south-facing sunny spot as much as possible. Spring and summer orchids have strong cold resistance and can be moved indoors only when the temperature reaches 0°C, placed on the northeast side. Around midday on sunny, windless days, windows facing south or southeast should be opened and netting pulled open for ventilation. Autumn orchids should not have windows opened on sunny days at 1-2°C. Of course, where there is a greenhouse, electric light heating can be used.
10. Disease and pest control: the potting soil should generally be sterilized (exposure under strong sun also works) to prevent disease occurrence. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons; for a small amount, it can be brushed off with a damp cloth; for many pots, 500-800-fold Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate-methyl can be used, spraying once every 7-10 days. Among pests, scale insects (commonly called "orchid lice") occur frequently; during the hatching period, use 1% omethoate and 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-fold dilution, spraying once a week. To treat the symptoms you must treat the root cause: pots should be spaced appropriately, placed at different heights, and ventilation increased, so as to reduce disease occurrence.
(II) Ecological habits of orchid cultivation
Orchids are native to China. They prefer warmth and humidity, and are especially ideal in conditions of warm winters and cool summers; high temperature and dryness must be avoided. In winter, it is best if they do not freeze, and keeping 3°C-7°C is most suitable; in summer, 25°C-28°C is suitable. In their natural distribution, orchid habitats are beside streams and gullies, receiving rain and dew year-round, and annual rainfall is required to be above 1000 mm. They require deep upper soil rich in humus, dark brown, loose and fertile, with good water permeability and water retention, and slightly acidic soil, pH 5 to pH 6.5, and they must not have waterlogging.
Orchids prefer shade and require short sunlight duration. In their natural distribution, spring orchids require tree canopy closure of 0.7-0.95; Cymbidium faberi requires 0.5-0.8, with a slightly longer light duration than spring orchids; Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium kanran also require high canopy closure for shade. Cymbidium plants have a dormant habit in their native areas, which depends on the rainy and dry seasons. Usually the dry season is in winter, which is the orchid dormant period, and the rainy season is in spring and summer, which is the orchid growing period, when they can continuously bud and bloom.
(III) Propagation methods for orchid cultivation Orchids are commonly propagated by division, sowing and tissue culture.
1. Division: this can be done in both spring and autumn, generally once every three years. Any plant growing robustly with crowded pseudobulbs can be divided; after division, each clump should retain at least 5 connected pseudobulbs. Before division, reduce watering to make the potting soil somewhat dry. When potting after division, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, then spread coarse gravel to occupy 1/5 to 1/4 of the pot depth, then place coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and then plant with humus-rich sandy loam. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just buried in the soil; leave a 2 cm rim at the edge of the pot, spread Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel on top, and finally water thoroughly, place in a shaded spot for 10-15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal care.
2. Propagation by sowing: orchid seeds are extremely fine, and the seed contains only one incompletely developed embryo, with very low germination capacity. In addition, the seed coat does not easily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not germinate; therefore orchid mycorrhiza or artificial culture medium is needed to supply nutrients for germination. For sowing, it is best to choose fruit that has not yet split; after sterilizing the surface with 75% alcohol, take out the seeds, soak them in 10% sodium hypochlorite for 5-10 minutes, take them out and rinse 3 times with sterile water, then sow them in culture bottles containing medium, and then place them in a dark culture room, keeping the temperature at about 25°C; after germination begins, move them into the light and they can form protocorms. From sowing to transplanting takes half a year to one year. Tissue culture has already been successful, and where conditions permit this method can be used for propagation.
(IV) Orchid cultivation techniques
1. Site selection: require open surroundings, good ventilation, and proximity to water, with moist air and no coal smoke pollution. On the southwest side of the site, evergreen broad-leaved trees can be planted, with canopy closure of about 0.7; this can reduce afternoon sunlight exposure and regulate humidity and temperature.
2. Watering: rainwater or spring water is suitable; water containing salt and alkali should not be used. If tap water is used, it should be left standing for several days before use. Watering should depend on temperature conditions: in spring the amount of water should be small, and in summer it should be more; the plum rain season coincides with orchids putting out leaf buds, so the potting soil should be slightly dry; after autumn when the weather turns cooler, the amount of water should be reduced as appropriate, keeping it moist. In winter indoors it should be dry, reducing watering frequency, and it is best to water at midday. Orchids can tolerate light rain, but continuous rain or heavy rain easily causes heart and leaf rot, so attention must be paid to rain protection.
3. Fertilization: for growing orchids, cake fertilizer is suitable. Mix 4 parts plant ash, 10 parts soybean cake, and 10 parts bone meal evenly, place in a vat, add water several times until the soybean cake is soaked and swollen, then cover and seal, and after one year of decomposition, make it into dry granules. When using, place it on the pot surface. If using full manure, it should also be decomposed for one year, then diluted with water and the residue filtered out before use. Generally, fertilization starts in May and stops at the Start of Autumn, with the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently. Fertilization should be done in the evening, and the next morning water once with clear water.
4. Shading and cold protection: except in early spring and winter, orchids should be placed under open-air sheds. The shade shed should have good ventilation. When orchids have just been moved out in March-April, they can receive more sun, and afterward the shading time gradually increases. In winter, orchids must be moved indoors for cold protection, and keeping the room temperature at 1°C-2°C is sufficient. In addition, after orchids are moved out in spring and before they are moved in in autumn, attention must also be paid to frost protection.
5. Pest and disease control: the main pests and diseases of orchids are:
(1) Southern blight: occurs mostly in the plum rain season. Attention should be paid to ventilation and light transmission, and good potting soil drainage for prevention. After onset, the infected potting soil can be removed, and pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime can be scattered on it.
(2) Anthracnose: occurs year-round, and is even more rampant in high-temperature, rainy seasons. In addition to improving environmental conditions, during the disease period spray first with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800-1500-fold dilution, once every 7-10 days, and then supplement with 1% equal-strength Bordeaux mixture, once every half month.
(3) Scale insects: under conditions of high temperature, high humidity and poor air circulation, they reproduce fastest. Use conventional control methods.
In summary, to grow orchids well, one must master their natural growth environment conditions, take reasonable measures, and strengthen care and management. According to "Orchid Growing Formulas": "Do not move out in spring, do not expose to sun in summer, do not let dry in autumn, do not keep wet in winter." This is a summary of China's experience in growing orchids.
A brief discussion of rational pesticide use for orchids
Fungicides are agents for preventing and controlling crop diseases. When we usually prevent and control orchid diseases, we must choose according to the different properties and modes of action of different categories of fungicides. One type is protective fungicides, whose role is to treat plants or the environment in which plants are located before pathogens invade. They need to be used before plants come into contact with pathogens or before disease occurs to be effective, such as Bordeaux mixture, lime sulfur mixture, mancozeb, zineb, etc. Another type is therapeutic fungicides. We often come into contact with this type of fungicide; its characteristic is that it is systemic. The use of such fungicides is when the pathogen has already invaded the plant body or the plant is already infected, and at this time it is applied to reduce or eliminate plant disease. Applying the pesticide in the early stage of plant disease gives better results.
The onset and peak periods of various pathogens also differ, influenced by the external environment, especially by the growth and development status of the infected crop and by temperature and humidity, (therefore, we should grow orchid seedlings strong). When preventing and controlling diseases, it is even better if everyone can be familiar with the living habits and epidemic patterns of the pathogenic organisms, and can carry out disease control according to different seasons and temperature environments; this plays a huge role in the effective exertion of pesticide efficacy. Crop diseases caused by various pathogens are different, and the disease symptoms are also obviously different, so when choosing fungicides, the right medicine must be selected for the disease. Moreover, the efficacy should be significant and lasting; one should not blindly pursue high efficiency, broad spectrum, or even "all-purpose" pesticides, treating ten thousand diseases with only one pesticide. This is certainly not acceptable. When using pesticides, attention should be paid to preventing the development of pathogen resistance, that is, the same fungicide should not be used continuously, nor should the same category of fungicide be used continuously several times in one growing period; especially for systemic agents, their frequency of use should be limited. For example, in production, systemic agents can be used in combination or rotation with chlorothalonil, mancozeb, etc.
In our daily pesticide use, we should adopt corresponding control measures according to the patterns of pathogen infection. When using fungicides to spray directly on orchid plants, attention should be paid to the influence of natural conditions to prevent loss of efficacy or pesticide damage. When temperature and humidity are relatively high, the concentration of the pesticide used can be appropriately reduced; for pesticides that easily decompose or volatilize under strong light, they should be applied on cloudy days or in the evening. Different pesticides all have a certain scope of use; only by understanding them deeply and mastering their use characteristics can one correctly select pesticides and achieve twice the result with half the effort. Carbendazim is a systemic fungicide commonly used by everyone, and can prevent and control dozens of fungal diseases. Ascomycetes and deuteromycetes are especially sensitive to this pesticide, but it is ineffective against diseases caused by bacteria and oomycetes among fungi. Therefore, when it is confirmed that a plant is infected with a fungal disease and repeated use of carbendazim is ineffective, consideration should be given to switching to phenylamide pesticides (such as metalaxyl). This type of pesticide is mainly used for downy mildew, Phytophthora disease and Pythium disease caused by oomycetes, while its effect on diseases caused by other fungi and bacteria is very poor. Chlorothalonil is a non-systemic broad-spectrum fungicide with preventive effects on many plant fungal diseases. It can prevent pathogen spores from germinating, hinder mycelial development and spore formation, and can also control diseases that have developed resistance to carbendazim, but its control effect on diseases caused by soilborne Pythium is poor. Therefore, often change fungicides, (Huakang is said to be able to kill all diseases; I do not know whether it is true. When I use it, I do not dare to be careless, and still mix it with other fungicides), striving for maximum protection of orchid plants, so that they are spared from the torment of disease. When orchids grow healthily, orchid friends are happy too.Figure 1 Ring spot disease + anthracnose (Colletotrichum)
Ring spot disease + anthracnose (Colletotrichum) routine preventive pesticide use:
Pesticide name: 77% Kocide wettable powder; mode of action: broad-spectrum protective fungicide; method of use: 1000-fold solution / 3-4 times / interval 7 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: brown spot disease, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, ring spot disease, bacterial brown spot disease;
Pesticide name: 25% Sportak emulsifiable concentrate; mode of action: broad-spectrum fungicide; method of use: 1500-fold / 2-3 times / interval 8 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot disease, sooty mold, black spot disease, round spot disease, ring spot disease;
Pesticide name: 80% mancozeb wettable powder; mode of action: broad-spectrum protective fungicide; method of use: 800-fold / 3-4 times / interval 6 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot disease, sooty mold, black spot disease, round spot disease, ring spot disease;
Ring spot disease + anthracnose (Colletotrichum) supplementary notes:
1. Because most of the control prescriptions for anthracnose are emulsifiable concentrates or mancozeb types, pesticide use must pay attention to weather temperature and UV index.
2. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, avoid using emulsifiable concentrates and copper agents as much as possible; when the weather UV index is too high, try to choose to apply pesticides before 5 a.m. or after 6 p.m.
3. It is recommended that during normal pesticide use, two prescription fungicides can be mixed for use; this allows treatment and defense in multiple aspects.Figure 2 Ring spot disease + leaf spot disease
Ring spot disease + leaf spot disease routine preventive pesticide use
Pesticide name: 80% mancozeb wettable powder; mode of action: broad-spectrum protective fungicide; method of use: 800-fold / 3-4 times / interval 6 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot disease, sooty mold, black spot disease, round spot disease, ring spot disease;
Pesticide name: 77% Kocide wettable powder; mode of action: broad-spectrum protective fungicide; method of use: 1000-fold solution / 3-4 times / interval 7 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: brown spot disease, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, ring spot disease, bacterial
Ring spot disease + leaf spot disease supplementary notes: before the leaves of diseased orchids dry up and wither, if not carefully observed, ring spot disease is often mistaken for ordinary leaf spot disease. Treatment: it is a disease that is relatively easy to control.
2. It is recommended that during normal pesticide use, two prescription fungicides can be mixed for use; this allows treatment and defense in multiple aspects.Figure 3 Mild nutrient deficiency disease (zinc, magnesium, iron)
Mild nutrient deficiency disease (zinc, magnesium, iron) routine preventive pesticide use: although this is a diseased state, it is not contagious; during normal fertilization, supplement some trace elements and fertilizers containing zinc, magnesium, iron and calcium. Mild nutrient deficiency disease (zinc, magnesium, iron) supplementary notes: during normal fertilization, supplement some trace elements and fertilizers containing zinc, magnesium, iron and calcium.Figure 4 Soft rot + black spot disease
Pesticide name: 72% agricultural streptomycin sulfate wettable powder; mode of action: antibiotic fungicide; method of use: 800-fold / 2-3 times / interval 7 days, spray, root drench; can simultaneously prevent: bacterial brown spot disease, soft rot;
Soft rot + black spot disease supplementary notes: because this is a condition in which fungi and bacteria occur at the same time, two different fungicides must be mixed for use. Since the two fungicides each have their own concentration dilution factor when mixed, this often troubles beginner orchid friends. Here is a renewed supplementary explanation: ratio: need 100 jin of water, use the bacterial one, streptomycin sulfate 500-fold, mixed with the fungal one, carbendazim, 1000-fold.
1. 100 jin of water with streptomycin sulfate at 500-fold equals streptomycin sulfate needing to be added in an amount of 100 grams.
2. 100 jin of water with carbendazim at 1000-fold equals carbendazim needing to be added in an amount of 50 grams.
3. That is, using 100 grams of streptomycin sulfate equals (500-fold) + 50 grams of carbendazim equals (1000-fold), put into 100 jin of water at the same time and mixed for use; only then is it considered a correct pesticide amount preparation.Figure 5 Leaf tip anthracnose + leaf blight
Leaf tip anthracnose + leaf blight routine preventive pesticide use
Pesticide name: 25% propiconazole emulsifiable concentrate; mode of action: broad-spectrum systemic fungicide; method of use: 1500-fold / 2-3 times / interval 8 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: brown spot disease, round spot disease, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, leaf tip blight;
Pesticide name: 10% Score water-dispersible granules; mode of action: broad-spectrum systemic fungicide; method of use: 3000-fold / 2-3 times / interval 8 days, spray / leaf underside, leaf surface; can simultaneously prevent: brown spot disease, leaf spot disease, black spot disease, round spot disease, leaf blight, ring spot disease, leaf tip blight, sooty mold;
Leaf tip anthracnose + leaf blight supplementary notes: because this is a cross co-existence of two pathogens, it is recommended to use two fungicides for relatively simple control. Regarding the mixing method of the two fungicides, here it is repeated once: when two disease conditions occur at the same time, two different fungicides must be mixed for use. Since the two fungicides each have their own concentration dilution factor when mixed, this often troubles beginner orchid friends. Here is a new supplementary explanation: ratio: need 100 jin of water, use the bacterial streptomycin sulfate 500-fold mixed with the fungal carbendazim 1000-fold.
1. 100 jin of water with streptomycin sulfate at 500-fold equals streptomycin sulfate needing to be added in an amount of 100 grams.
2. 100 jin of water with carbendazim at 1000-fold equals carbendazim needing to be added in an amount of 50 grams.
3. That is, 100 grams of streptomycin sulfate equals "500 times" + 50 grams of carbendazim equals "1000 times", and both are put into 100 jin of water and mixed for use - only then is the pesticide dosage correctly prepared.Image 6: Leaf margin black spot disease
Routine preventive spraying for leaf margin black spot disease
Pesticide name: 80% mancozeb wettable powder. Characteristics: broad-spectrum protective fungicide. Application: 800 times / 3-4 times / 6-day interval, spray on leaf undersides and upper surfaces. It can also prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot, sooty mold, black spot, round spot, ring rot.
Pesticide name: 10% difenoconazole water-dispersible granules; Characteristics: broad-spectrum systemic fungicide; Application: 3000 times / 2-3 times / 8-day interval, spray on leaf undersides and upper surfaces; It can also prevent: brown spot, leaf spot, black spot, round spot, leaf blight, ring rot, leaf tip blight, sooty mold;
Pesticide name: 25% prochloraz emulsifiable concentrate; Characteristics: broad-spectrum fungicide; Application: 1500 times / 2-3 times / 8-day interval, spray on leaf undersides and upper surfaces; It can also prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot, sooty mold, black spot, round spot, ring rot;
Pesticide name: 50% prochloraz wettable powder; Characteristics: broad-spectrum fungicide; Application: 2000 times / 2-3 times / 8-day interval, spray on leaf undersides and upper surfaces; It can also prevent: anthracnose, leaf spot, sooty mold, black spot, round spot, ring rot;
Supplementary notes on leaf margin black spot disease: In fact, the fungicides used for many orchid leaf diseases have similar properties, but as a professional introduction we must present all the disease conditions for orchid enthusiasts to understand. In general, the best pesticide choices are broad-spectrum and systemic fungicides.
Experience reminder: In my experience, the key task when buying pesticides is to choose based on the manufacturer's reputation and the clearly labeled ingredients, so as to avoid the psychological comfort of thinking you have a fungicide when the product turns out to have fake ingredients, resulting in the disease not being controlled and missing the golden window for treatment.
Experience reminder: The second cause of harm is this: thinking that these pesticides may not have sufficient active ingredients, one instead increases the concentration and the dilution ratio - only to find that this time you bought genuine product, and the increased ratio causes severe pesticide damage. Haha! One can only look to heaven speechlessly.Image 7: Stem rot
Routine preventive spraying for stem rot
Pesticide name: 72% cymoxanil wettable powder; Characteristics: systemic fungicide; Application: 1500 times solution / 2-3 times / 10-day interval, drench the roots and stems; It can also prevent: stem rot
Pesticide name: 50% anke wettable powder; Characteristics: systemic fungicide; Application: 12500 times / 2-3 times / 10-day interval, drench the roots and stems; It can also prevent: stem rot
Supplementary notes on treating stem rot once infected:
1. During the peak period of disease incidence, preventive medication must be applied continuously. Having understood the characteristics of stem rot, we can only use targeted fungicides.
2. 72% agricultural streptomycin sulfate soluble powder at 800 times solution, 77% copper hydroxide powder at 1000 times solution, spray on leaf undersides, upper surfaces and the crown.
3. Mifenan (emulsifiable concentrate) 1500 times + tetracycline (powder) 2000 + dimethomorph (powder) 2000 times solution, spray on leaf undersides, upper surfaces and the crown.
4. Antaisheng 500 times + Mifenan 1500 times + streptomycin sulfate 500 times solution, spray on leaf undersides, upper surfaces and the crown. (When applying fertilizer or pesticide, you must spray the leaf undersides, because plants absorb through the stomata on the leaf undersides.)
5. Every 20 days or so, use dexon 800 times + tetracycline 3000 times solution to thoroughly drench the roots.
6. Fungicides must be alternated and rotated so as not to produce resistance and delay treatment of the disease.Basic principles of orchid cultivation and management techniques - Orchid cultivation techniques
1. Preparation of growing medium. Planting orchids requires a specially made growing medium, also called orchid soil. The growing medium for orchids should preferably be loose and breathable, well aerated, with an appropriate amount of fertilizer, and free of hidden pests and diseases. The composition of the growing medium is made from one or several basic components (substrates). These basic components include soil, fertilizer and other materials, of which there are quite many types. Some components seem unrelated to soil, but they are all substrates on which orchids depend for stabilizing the plant and for growth and development.
(1) Growing medium formulas.
In East China, orchid growers generally prefer orchid soil from places such as Shaoxing and Yuyao. In recent years, Emei Hewang brand immortal soil has also become popular, but these growing media are limited in quantity and expensive, and can only be used for repotting. Large-scale ground planting requires hundreds or thousands of tons of growing medium, so only local materials can be used. After years of practice and repeated screening, we determined that the best formula is: four parts yellow sandy soil, four parts sawdust, two parts river sand; if using yellow loam, then one part river sand, one part sawdust, one part yellow loam. All are thoroughly mixed. The prepared growing medium should have a pH value between 6.5-6.8, be loose and breathable, have excellent water retention and aeration, and be comprehensive in nutrients. River sand and sawdust serve to conduct water and air; the sawdust is decomposed by bacteria and can slowly release nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Yellow loam also contains various trace elements. After years of observation, this formula is very suitable for orchid growth. It is especially suitable as a substrate for domesticating and cultivating wild orchids. It suits Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi, and is also ideal for Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium kanran. Whether in flowering rate or stress resistance, it shows a significant increase.
(2) Bamboo root soil.
This refers to the soil at the base of bamboo clumps that have been planted for many years. Because of the spreading growth of bamboo rhizomes and bamboo roots, as well as the decomposition of bamboo leaves and shoot sheaths, this soil becomes loose in structure, well drained, and has a certain fertility without being excessively fertile, making it suitable for orchid growth. The quality of bamboo root soil depends on three factors: first, the original soil quality, which is the predecessor and foundation of the bamboo root soil, with sandy loam being the best; second, the age of the bamboo clump planting - the longer the time, the more fully the bamboo roots, bamboo leaves and bamboo rhizomes have acted; third, the distance from the bamboo stump - the closer the soil is to the bamboo stump, the better.
(3) Vetch bran soil.
Vetch bran is made by harvesting, sun-drying and crushing the plants of green manure (Chinese milk vetch). Mix vetch bran with bamboo root soil or ordinary sandy loam, pile it up and compost it, and it becomes vetch bran soil. The preparation method is: choose a rain-sheltered site, spread a layer of soil, then a layer of vetch bran, then pour on a round of * manure water, and pile up layer by layer in this way; after the pile is finished, sprinkle water on the surface to moisten it, then coat it with thin mud to seal it. It can be used after pile fermentation for half a year.
When using, mix it into other growing media in proportion.
(4) Leaf mold.
Use fallen leaves or green grass and tall stalks, pile them up, water or apply fertilizer, coat with thin mud to seal, and after composting and screening it is ready. It is best to use green grass that has not set seed, and to compost it fully to kill pests, diseases and weed seeds; otherwise there will be many weeds in the orchid pot later.
(5) Mountain soil.
That is, the forest soil where wild orchids originally grow. It is formed by fallen branches and leaves accumulating and rotting over many years and mixing with the soil. Naturally formed leaf mold contains rich humus, is loose and breathable, and is very suitable for orchid growth. When transportation is convenient, digging up mountain soil in large quantities to plant orchids is relatively simple and economical, and it is even better for domesticating wild plants. Humus soil under broad-leaved forests, especially leaf mold under chestnut trees, is an ideal soil for orchids.
(6) Pond mud.
When repairing ponds and fish ponds in winter, dig out the mud, dry it in the sun, then break it into fine particles. It can be used to cultivate all flowers, including orchids.
(7) Field soil.
That is, select loose topsoil from fields, mix in a little sandy soil or a small amount of rice hull ash, then add some composted manure or fermented and decomposed organic fertilizers such as soybean cake and rapeseed cake, to improve the soil structure and enhance fertilizer efficiency. After turning and mixing the pile evenly several times, screen it. This soil is nearly neutral and not as good as humus soil. Therefore, it is used only reluctantly when there is no suitable humus soil or mountain sandy loam, and is mostly used for cultivating coarse varieties of orchids.
(8) Cow dung soil.
Break up and grind dried fermented cow dung, and mix it into sandy soil or field topsoil in a 1:3 ratio. It is best to choose cow dung from cattle fed dry feed in winter, because after the dry grass feed is chewed by the cow's stomach, although the fibers are finely broken, they are still elastic and are plant fibers containing certain nutrients. This cow dung soil is soft and rich in fertilizer, extremely suitable for the air-loving orchid roots. In Taiwan, China orchid circles, this cow dung soil is often used as a filling material for cultivating terrestrial orchids, with very good results. Abroad, for cultivating terrestrial orchids, generally 5 parts humus soil or leaf mold plus 1 part sand is used; or 3 parts peat soil plus 1 part river sand, mixed with crushed dry cow dung and thoroughly blended before use. The cultivation substrate for epiphytic orchids is mainly moss and ferns, with a small amount of tree leaves, small pieces of charcoal and crushed dry cow dung added. Before using soil to plant orchids, expose the soil to sunlight for disinfection and sterilization. In summer, spread the soil out and let it sun-expose for more than 3 days, which can kill pathogens and insect eggs in it. Before use, the growing medium should be tested and its pH adjusted. For overly acidic soil, lime can be used to adjust it. For overly alkaline soil, use superphosphate, ferrous sulfate, etc. mixed into the soil. In short, it is better to control the soil pH at slightly acidic to neutral (that is, pH 5.5-7). Using organic fertilizers, such as grass and tree leaves composted into fertilizer, and adding them to the soil to change the soil pH is a better method. In addition, before planting orchids, the nutrient soil should be screened and graded, separating large particles from small particles.
When planting orchids, place the large particles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. At the same time, the degree of soil dryness and moisture should also be adjusted well - it should not be too wet or too dry. It is best to ball the soil in your hand and squeeze hard so that the soil can form a ball; when you open your hand and shake it a little, the soil again breaks apart into particles - this degree of dryness and moisture is suitable.
2. Preparation of the orchid-growing site. 1. Productive ground planting. The original environment for terrestrial orchids is among mountain forests and secluded valleys, with high, refreshing terrain, shade from trees, and a humid microclimate. The temperature difference is small and the air is clean.
When introducing and domesticating them, one should first simulate their wild environment before they can be grown with abundant flowers and lush leaves. At present, with industrial development and urban modernization, greening work cannot keep up in time, and they are affected by pollution from factories and vehicles. Therefore, orchids cultivated in cities are not as robust as those grown in the suburbs. There is a gap with the original environment of wild orchids, and a great difference from the meteorological factors of the original habitats of Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium ensifolium, so careful design was made for the domestication and orchid-planting site and practical arrangements were made for adjusting environmental factors.
The orchid nursery covers about 15,000 sq m and is rectangular, with a rectangular pond used to store rainwater. In the nursery, every 2.5 m or so, a 2.5 m high moso bamboo pole is fixed, and bamboo is tied horizontally above to form a frame, used to lay and tie the first layer of shade net. About 20 cm below the first layer of shade net, another horizontal thin moso bamboo is placed, used to lay the second layer of movable shade net. The first layer of shade net is basically fixed from spring to autumn, while the second layer can be retracted or extended as needed. Carefully adjust light and temperature. The seedbed width is 1.2 m, the length is 12-16 m (depending on terrain), and the height is about 30-40 cm (5-7 bricks high). The seedbeds are spaced 50 cm apart, and the passages are 130 cm wide. This facilitates daily management. In winter, every two beds are covered with a plastic greenhouse for warmth. On snowy days, clear the snow in time and avoid too much snow crushing the plastic greenhouse. For about each mu (one mu is about 667 sq m), build two water tanks with a storage capacity of 1 cubic meter to treat tap water. In winter, 100-150 watt bulbs are set up about 4 m apart inside the plastic greenhouse, mainly for raising the temperature.
2. Open-field cultivation
(1) Ground planting of cymbidiums in tree shade.
This is for ornamental purposes, making appropriate plantings in the ground in front of houses with sparse shade, in wall corners or in scenic areas, but the original poor clay must be dug out and replaced with loose humus soil or good field topsoil.
When winter arrives, spread some rice straw over the soil surface at the roots to avoid freezing the orchid roots. If there is severe cold, straw curtains or other soft coverings should also be laid over the leaf clusters to prevent cold damage. For this kind of ground-planted orchid cultivation, apart from strengthened management and protection during the hottest midsummer, it can generally be managed extensively and allowed to grow naturally. Orchids planted in the open field are all coarse varieties without petal-type classification. In the following spring, after the weather turns warm, the cold-protective coverings can be removed. After growing for many years, as long as they are watered and fertilized in a timely manner, their adaptability is still relatively strong, and they can bloom abundantly year after year, with a delicate fragrance drifting far - a fine item for embellishing the countryside.
However, when arranging ground-planted orchid cultivation, besides considering the tranquility of the layout
(2) Pot cultivation of orchids.
This also refers to growing orchids under a shade shed.
Whenever orchids are grown in pots, it is best to use clay pots, that is, unglazed earthenware pots. They have good breathability, can filter water, and are cheap. They are economical and practical orchid-growing supplies. But clay pots are rather rough and not attractive, and are unsuitable for exhibition. Porcelain pots or glazed pots are attractive in appearance, but their breathability and drainage are very poor. If used for long-term orchid growing, they easily rot the orchid roots, making it difficult for orchids to grow vigorously. Therefore, when using porcelain or glazed pots to grow orchids, more drainage tiles must be placed at the bottom of the pot, or fillers such as clam shells; moreover, watering must be controlled and not excessive. If orchids are grown in clay pots, they can be placed inside larger porcelain or glazed pots when participating in exhibitions. Yixing purple clay pots are attractive and elegant in appearance and also have a certain breathability, making them relatively suitable for growing orchids. Newly bought orchid pots must be soaked in water for several days; especially newly kilned clay pots must be allowed to absorb enough water to completely eliminate their fiery dryness. Generally, for orchid growing, newly planted orchids mostly use new pots, while repotting mostly uses old pots. Whenever orchids are grown in pots, it is best not to place them directly on the ground, because they are easily disturbed by pests and overgrown weeds. Especially in hot summer, when the scorching sun is intense and ground temperature rises, it harms the orchid plants; during thunderstorms and the plum rain season, the rise of damp heat is even greater, easily steaming the orchid roots; moreover, being close to the ground, ventilation is poor. This is beneficial for aerial root growth. To reduce the above effects, orchid pots can be placed on orchid stands built from cement boards, facilitating upward and downward convection, continuously supplying fresh air, promoting orchid respiration, enhancing metabolic function, accumulating nutrients and energy production, making orchids grow robustly, and also avoiding harm to orchid roots by ants, slugs, etc. If conditions are limited, an empty clay pot can be turned upside down on the ground, and the potted orchid placed on top.
3. Orchid room cultivation. The orchid room is mainly for the wintering of terrestrial orchids.
Different types of orchids have different ecological habits, so the time for moving them indoors for winter and the required room temperature also differ. For terrestrial orchids, as long as the temperature is not below 7°C-8°C, most can be cultivated in the open. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the custom is that after the Start of Winter, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense, which require slightly higher temperatures, are moved indoors for cultivation, while some Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi with flower buds are moved under the eaves or to cold-protected places to avoid attack by early frost and prevent effects on flower bud development. After Light Snow, potted orchids cultivated from pseudobulbs and thin, weak small plants, especially orchids of the plain-heart petal type, are gradually moved indoors and placed on orchid stands near windows so they can receive sunlight. After Great Snow, all potted orchids are moved indoors for care. Before orchids enter the orchid room, first wash the area around the orchid pots clean, which can prevent mud from contaminating insect eggs, mold, etc., and also looks clean and elegant. When placing orchid pots, pay attention to reasonable arrangement, so as to facilitate sunlight penetration and ventilation. When terrestrial orchids overwinter indoors, the key is to manage temperature and humidity well. Generally, the room temperature should be kept above 7°C-8°C, and for Cymbidium sinense the ideal range should be kept at 10°C-15°C. After the orchid pots are moved indoors, if the weather is not yet severely cold and freezing, open the south-facing windows around noon and open a small vent on the north side to facilitate indoor air circulation. In the evening, if the indoor temperature is still above 5°C, the small north and south vents can be opened slightly; if below 5°C, all windows should be closed. In deep winter, only on windless, sunny days at noon should the windows be slightly half-opened for a little ventilation. When the sun begins to slant, the doors and windows should be closed, and in the evening straw curtains or cotton cloth curtains should be hung. If the temperature continues to drop below 3°C-5°C, a coal stove with a chimney pipe can be used for heating. After the Start of Spring, the climate gradually warms, and on clear noons all doors and windows of the orchid room can be opened wide, but attention should be paid to temperature changes; in the afternoon when the temperature gradually drops, the south windows should be half-opened and half-closed; before nightfall, all should be closed again.
During this period, the orchid room temperature should preferably be kept at around 10°C. If the temperature is on the high side, it will cause early-flowering varieties of Cymbidium goeringii to bloom early, and the flowers are also prone to wilting early. In early spring, it is even more necessary to prevent a late cold spell, which affects flower bud growth and can even freeze the orchid roots.
After Awakening of Insects, all Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi without flower buds can be taken out of the room and placed on open-air stands, with reed curtains added over the frames at night to guard against frost damage. All kinds of orchids with flower buds should still remain in the orchid room for care, and only after Pure Brightness can they be moved outside for cultivation; but at night attention should still be paid to preventing late frost. During the period of indoor orchid cultivation, especially in severely cold seasons, special attention must be paid to the dryness and moisture of potted orchids. The pot soil should preferably be dry. When watering is needed can be judged by looking at the pot surface: if the top layer of soil is in a powdery, loose state while the soil below is still slightly moist, do not wait until the pot soil is completely dry before watering. When watering, first move the potted orchids down and place them on the ground, and water along the water groove at the rim of the pot. Never let water soak into the leaf clusters. The orchid pots can also be placed in a water vat and shallow-soaked for several minutes, with the water limited to reaching the waist of the pot. When watering, if water soaks into the leaf sheaths, promptly wipe off the water marks with a dry cloth, or let the sunlight dry them before moving them back indoors. Because orchids are placed indoors for long periods, many dust particles often attach to the leaf surfaces, hindering metabolism. On clear, warm days, around noon, move the pots outdoors into the sunlight, and use a fine-nozzle watering can to spray and clean the leaf surfaces, washing away dust; after the water marks dry, move them back indoors. If the water marks are not dry, the wet parts of the orchid leaves are prone to turning black and withering. When growing orchids indoors, during the heating period, the indoor air temperature is often on the high side, the leaf clusters appear dry, the soil surface in the pot is dry and loose, or the moss on the pot surface looks withered. Then water should be sprayed in time on the passages and walls to let it evaporate, so as to regulate temperature. In short, for indoor orchid cultivation, whether the orchid plants in the pot or the moss on the pot surface should stay green and lush. If you are an amateur orchid grower, due to limited conditions, you can use a south-facing, sun-facing spot along a wall outdoors, leaning against the wall on one side and using bricks on the other three sides to build a single-slope ground box. The size can be determined according to the number of pots. On the sloped surface of the ground box, install a wooden-framed glass window or plastic film window that can be opened and closed as needed. For orchids with long, tall leaves, place them in a higher position near the wall, on inverted empty flower pots, or on bricks, strips of wood, or cement boards stacked to an appropriate height. Short orchid pots are arranged in rows toward the front, and all leaf tips or the tops of ringed leaves must not touch the glass or plastic film of the window. In severely cold seasons, whenever the temperature is too low or on windy and snowy days, the sloped window must be covered with enough straw curtains or other coverings to prevent cold air from entering. When the weather is clear and mild, especially after the Start of Spring, when sunlight shines, the cold-protective straw curtains can be removed; when the noon sunlight is strong and the temperature is slightly higher, the covered window can be lifted to leave a gap to regulate fresh air. After the sunlight slants, the covered window should be closed immediately. In daily care, great attention should be paid: excessive water droplets must not condense on the glass of the covered window, to prevent them from dripping into the leaf clusters; the wet parts often turn black and rot, and may even die.
3. Planting orchids. 1. Planting timing. Whether repotting or newly planting, the choice of timing has a great influence on the survival, growth vigor and development of orchids. Therefore it is very important. Generally, the more suitable time is the dormancy period of orchids, that is, March-April, before new shoots emerge from the soil; in terms of solar terms, it is between the Spring Equinox and Pure Brightness. If done after new shoots emerge, the operation is very inconvenient, and a little carelessness may break or injure the new shoots. When the dormancy period of orchids is about to end and the new shoots and new roots are just about to grow but have not yet grown, planting at this time is best; shortly after planting, they can root and sprout and resume normal growth. If planted too early, orchids do not easily recover after planting, and if low temperatures, cold waves, late frost or spring thunder occur, freezing injury often results. In the Yangtze River basin, orchid rooms are rarely heated in winter. Winter is very cold, so dividing plants in severe winter is not advocated. To make division easier, the soil can be allowed to dry appropriately before division. This makes the roots whiten and produce inconspicuous shrinkage, making the originally brittle and easily broken fleshy roots soft, so that when dividing and potting, the roots are not broken too much. In larger orchid nurseries, the planting workload is large and takes a long time from beginning to end. Valuable varieties should be arranged for planting at the best time. Ordinary varieties can be delayed or advanced as appropriate.
2. Using orchid seedlings. For propagation, orchid seedlings that grow well and are free of pests and diseases should be selected.
After 2-3 years of cultivation, orchids need a soil change or repotting, and at this time division propagation should be combined with it. When repotting, support the bottom of the flower pot with the left palm, carefully extend the fingers of the right hand into the orchid seedling leaf cluster to block the pot soil, then lay the orchid pot on its side, tilt the pot body sideways facing the person, and let the lower edge of the pot mouth touch the ground. At this time, lift the pot slightly upward with both hands simultaneously, so that the lower edge of the pot lightly taps the ground, loosening the pot soil. Rotate the pot body and change the contact point where the lower edge of the pot mouth taps the ground, so that the pot soil gradually loosens evenly and separates from the flower pot. Support the orchid plant with the right hand and remove the flower pot with the left hand. If the orchid plant is too tall, it is better to tap the lower edge of the pot mouth against the edge of a wooden chair or cement platform, so that the orchid leaves hang in the air and are not injured or broken. After the orchid pot soil separates from the pot, lay the orchid seedlings and pot soil flat, so that the soil ball does not suddenly loosen and split, causing the orchid root system to break. Then carefully pat the soil ball gently to loosen it, and gradually shake off the old pot soil. Carefully grasp the pseudobulbs to avoid injuring the leaves and tender shoots, especially protecting the root tips. Cut off already yellowed and withered leaves, decayed bracts on the pseudobulbs, and rotten, dried and hollow old roots. However, for pseudobulbs with new shoots, the leaves should be retained as much as possible to promote good growth of the new shoots. For the larger clumps that have been selected and cleaned, find the natural gap where the two pseudobulbs are relatively far apart and where they easily loosen when shaken by hand, and cut the two pseudobulbs apart. The ancients called this "opening the road", and then, holding the bases of the two clumps with both hands, gently shake and slowly pull along the road to divide them into two clumps. Properly prune the separated orchid clumps, then soak them in a 800 times water-diluted thiophanate solution for 10-15 minutes; only the roots should be soaked, not the leaves; a 1000 times potassium permanganate solution can also be used for disinfection. Note that only the wounded parts should be disinfected, then air-dry the orchids in a cool, ventilated place. When the orchid roots become soft and easy to bend, they can be planted. Generally, in clear weather, air-drying for half a day is enough, but of course they must not be dried too much.
3. Planting procedure. For the separated orchid clumps, do not divide them too sparsely. Each clump should have at least 3-5 seedlings; it is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same clump.
(1) Padding the pot.
Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a piece of tile, then gradually fill with bricks, tiles or shells, with large gaps filled with mud particles or bean-sized stones, generally about 1/2-1/3 of the pot height. The remaining clear height above is about 10-15 cm, reserved as the growing medium layer. Its specific height should be determined according to the type of orchid, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The padding material should not be packed too densely or too solidly; some gaps should be retained. Practice has proved that some new roots can grow well in the gaps of the padding layer.
(2) Planting.
On the padding layer, first fill in 2-3 cm of growing medium, press it slightly firm with the hand, then place the orchid upright on it. According to the size of the plant and the flower pot, several single plants, 2 clumps, 3 clumps or more clumps can be planted in one pot. 3 clumps should be planted in a tripod arrangement. 4 clumps can be planted in a square arrangement, and 5 clumps should be arranged in a plum-blossom shape. The orchid roots should spread naturally, and the leaves should spread out in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots into the pot, so that the orchid roots spread naturally and as much as possible do not rub against the inner wall of the pot. After the orchid plant enters the pot, gradually fix the posture of the orchid plant. For one clump in a pot, the old pseudobulbs should be placed to one side, leaving room for new shoots to develop. For multiple clumps in one pot, the old pseudobulbs of each clump should be gathered relatively toward the middle of the pot, so that new roots and new shoots have enough space to develop outward.
(3) Filling soil.
When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other, hold the base of the orchid plant and lift it slightly upward to stretch the root system, while shaking the orchid pot. Let the growing medium go deep into the root zone; continue adding soil and shaking the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid plant. Press with the hand along the edge of the pot, but never too hard so as not to injure the roots. Continue adding soil and pressing until the pot surface soil is 2-3 cm above the pot mouth, slightly in a steamed bun shape. The growing medium should cover all the orchid roots, up to the base of the pseudobulbs. As for the depth of soil filling, tradition holds that Cymbidium goeringii should be shallow and Cymbidium faberi should be deep, but generally the standard is not to bury the leaf bases on the pseudobulbs. When newly collected orchids grow in the wild, the plants leave obvious markers above and below the soil surface, and these markers can be used as the standard. The size of the flower pot should also match the size and number of the plants; it should be neither a large pot with small and few plants, nor a small pot with large and many plants. Generally, the number of plants should be based on the principle that after 2-3 years they will just fill the pot. The size of the plants should match the height of the pot. This is both beneficial to growth and meets ornamental requirements.
(4) Top dressing.
After planting is completed, a layer of small stone particles or green moss can be spread on the surface of the pot soil, preferably high-quality moss from under the forest. It is both attractive and can regulate moisture, and can also protect the leaf surface from being polluted by muddy water, so that new shoots will not be infected by pathogens in the soil and rot at the center; in addition, it can also reduce the washing effect of rainwater on the pot soil and keep the pot soil loose.
(5) Watering.
After planting is completed, water for the first time immediately. The pot soil must be thoroughly wet. The water droplets should be small, and the force should not be strong. If placed in a water basin to soak, never soak for too long. Once the pot soil is soaked, immediately take the orchid pot out, then move it to a shaded place for care.
4. Care and management after planting. Mastering orchid-growing skills is certainly very important, but managing and caring for orchids well is even more difficult, hence the saying "three parts planting, seven parts care." The care of orchids requires understanding the environment, accumulating care experience, and patience and carefulness. The most important thing is to grasp the laws of orchid growth and development: when they sprout, when they grow leaves, when they bloom, and when they dormancy. Then carry out care and management in terms of temperature, humidity, watering, fertilizing, ventilation, plant protection, cherishing leaves and protecting flowers, and you will certainly grow orchids well.
1. Cherishing leaves. Orchid leaves are soft and beautiful but not weak, upright but not stiff.
Orchids are moving and lovely, but good flowers do not bloom often, and there is no way to keep them when they fall; but orchid leaves remain green through the four seasons, forever full of vitality, giving people year-round enjoyment. The elegance of orchids is displayed both in the flowers and entrusted to the leaves.
And lush leaves are also the prerequisite for good flowers. If the leaves are healthy and lush, the plant itself produces abundant nutrients, so the flowers are many and beautiful. If the leaves are damaged but the flowers are many, it is merely a sign of rapid decline. The key to cherishing leaves is first of all to control the degree of shading, air humidity, appropriate water and fertilizer, and maintain good ventilation. Make the orchid leaves lush and healthy, verdant and glossy. Also strengthen pest and disease control, and prevent wind and rain attacks and mechanical damage. In addition, preserve the leaf tips. The tips of orchid leaves are like sword points, brush tips and eyebrow ends, able to convey meaning and spirit. Losing the leaf tip makes them appear abrupt and dull. The key to preserving leaf tips is to ensure that orchids have sufficient water and nutrients, that the pot soil is loose and breathable, and therefore that the root system is well developed and intact, and the plant grows vigorously without scorched tips. Some people say that the sign of well-grown orchids is that the leaf tip can pass through the eye of a needle, which refers to the leaf tip being intact and the tip undamaged. The shape of the leaf tips differs among different types of orchids: some are acuminate, some obtuse and rounded, some notched, and some upturned; as for leaf color, some orchid varieties have gold or silver tips (that is, the leaf tip is yellow or white), showing their preciousness and rarity. This is another layer of interest in appreciating leaves through the leaf tips. In daily care, pay attention to protecting orchid leaves, be light and careful in operations, do not bump the orchid leaves, and maintain their natural posture.
Carefully clean polluted leaves, and sprayed water must not accumulate in the center of the leaf clusters. Withered yellow old leaves and diseased leaves should be cut off in time. For partial cutting of orchid leaves, cut at an appropriate place with a slanted cut, and the resulting pointed angle should be less than 30. Some also cut twice, but it must not be cut into a flat head.
2. Protecting flowers. After flower buds emerge from the soil, if there are too many, they consume excessive nutrients from the mother plant, hindering the formation and robust growth of leaf buds. Excess thin and small flower buds should be removed as early as possible. For each orchid seedling, keeping one flower bud z is enough.
Each pot should preferably retain 3-5 flower buds. Retain flower buds appropriately according to the orchid variety, the size of the pot and the number of seedlings. In order to protect and develop valuable varieties, all flower buds can also be removed to let them multiply luxuriantly. During the period from flower bud elongation to flowering, maintain moderate light so that the flower color is bright and full, glossy and with sufficient fragrance. If the light is too weak, the flower color is pale and lacking in luster. Flowers that remain too long consume nutrients, hindering sprouting and leaf growth as well as flowering the next year. The flowers of Cymbidium goeringii bloom for about half a month, and after they fade, the flower scapes should be cut off in time. For Cymbidium faberi flowers, when the last flower of the inflorescence has been open for 1 week, the inflorescence should be cut off. When snapping off flower scapes, steady the leaf base with one hand and push the flower scape to one side with the other, so that it breaks at the base and can be pulled away, or it can be cut off. The removed flower stems can be placed in a vase and enjoyed for many more days. Generally, orchids are not allowed to be pollinated and set seed after flowering, especially not the less robust and valuable varieties, otherwise it affects flowering the following year. If hybrid breeding is to be carried out, artificial pollination should be performed at the appropriate time. And the maternal parent should be carefully managed so that the seeds are full and mature.
3. Temperature. Most of our country lies in the temperate and subtropical zones, while orchids generally come from places with mild and humid climates, relatively high annual average temperatures and longer frost-free periods. In Northeast and Northwest China, orchids are rarely grown, mainly because of temperature constraints. The northernmost distributed Cymbidium species in our country are Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi. Along their distribution line, there is frost or short-term snow accumulation in winter, and higher temperatures in summer. But because orchids mostly grow in forests where broad-leaved and coniferous trees are mixed, or in bamboo forests, the trees both block the summer sun and resist the winter cold wind; even in places covered by snow, the impact on orchids is not great, because snow actually serves to protect orchids through the winter, and the ground temperature under the snow is generally not lower than 0°C. In our introduction and domestication of Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium kanran, we have moved them 600-1000 km northward from their original habitats, and have carried out large-scale ground planting. It can be seen that the survival ability and adaptability of orchids are still relatively strong. In most areas of Northeast, Northwest and North China, winters are too cold and the outdoors is unsuitable for orchid cultivation. From mid-to-late October to late April of the following year, for half a year, orchids all need to be moved indoors or into greenhouses for cultivation. In the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, orchids must also be kept indoors in winter or heated in sheds. In provinces and regions such as Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan, Sichuan and Taiwan, China, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium ensifolium generally do not need to overwinter indoors in winter. In Jiangxi, Hunan and parts of Sichuan, certain measures are still needed in winter to protect orchids.
Temperature requirements of orchids: The germination temperature of orchid seeds is: 21°C-25°C during the day and 15°C-18°C at night. The temperature required for grown plants of terrestrial orchids is 20°C-22°C during the day and 13°C-0°C at night.
During the winter dormancy period of orchids, the temperature can be lowered. For example, Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi require a minimum winter night temperature of 4°C-6°C, and dropping to 0°C is also acceptable. The plant leaves can even drop to minus 2°C-3°C under dry conditions without harm. Orchid flowers develop from flower buds, and flower bud differentiation is closely related to temperature and light. Previous generations did much research on orchid flower bud differentiation, and concluded that a low temperature of 12°C-13°C is sufficient to cause flower bud differentiation, and the relationship with day length is not very great. But the more light orchids receive, the more pronounced the effect of low temperature on flower bud formation. Therefore, from late spring to autumn, placing orchids outdoors for cultivation is better for growth and development than indoors. The purpose of regulating temperature mainly has 3 aspects, namely: preventing cold in winter, preventing heat in summer, and changing the flowering period. When the winter temperature is below 0°C, orchid leaves and flower buds are prone to cold injury, with water-soaked black spots appearing on the leaves and flower buds wilting. If the temperature drops suddenly and sharply or there is severe frost, the damage is even greater. But winter temperatures being too high are also not good, because orchids are in a dormant state in winter, and too high a temperature will disturb dormancy. In summer, if the temperature is too high and orchids suffer from heat, the leaves turn yellow, become rough and lusterless, and are prone to pest and disease attack, often with the leaf base beginning to rot. The flowering period of orchids is very obviously affected by temperature. Under general conditions, appropriately raising the temperature can make them bloom earlier. For example, the flowering period of orchids under cultivation conditions in plains and cities is often 15-30 days earlier than under original wild conditions. Using this biological characteristic, the temperature can be appropriately regulated to advance the flowering period by half a month to one month. Especially for species that bloom in spring, flower buds have generally already formed in July-September of the previous year; after they pass through the dormancy stage, appropriately raising the temperature can make them bloom early and catch the Spring Festival holiday. But it must be pointed out that raising the temperature must be done step by step. Experiments show that sharply raising the temperature instead produces an inhibitory effect and delays the flowering period.
Methods of regulating temperature:
Temperature has a great influence on orchid growth and development. If the temperature is too high, respiration speeds up and nutrient consumption increases; if too low, enzyme activity decreases, synthesis is low, and growth and development slow. What is important is that day-night temperature differences and seasonal temperature differences must form, so that sprouting and flowering can occur. In temperature regulation for domestication and cultivation, we adopt the principle of approximating the original orchid-producing area. In summer, double-layer shade nets are used to shade the orchid nursery, and the cooling effect is obvious. When the air temperature reaches as high as 35°C, the temperature in the orchid nursery is only 31°C-32°C. In winter, plastic greenhouses are used for warmth. When the air temperature is as low as 0°C, the temperature inside the plastic greenhouse can still remain at 6°C-8°C. The winter temperature difference is smaller than in the open field, which is beneficial for nutrient storage and does not cause cold injury. In addition to building earthen orchid sheds and orchid rooms, temperature regulation can also be achieved by planting trees, shrubs, vines and lawns around the orchid nursery. In summer they can absorb part of the solar radiant heat, and in winter they can slow the loss of heat from the ground and air. Taking lawn as an example, according to measurements, in winter the air temperature in a lawn environment is higher than on bare ground, with a maximum daytime difference of up to 4.4°C, helping to avoid cold injury; while in summer the air temperature in a lawn environment is much lower than on cement ground, helping to prevent heat and lower temperature. In summer, it is advisable to spray or sprinkle clear water in the air, on the ground, on flower stands and on orchid leaves. Because water absorbs part of the heat when evaporating, it can play a role in cooling and preventing heat; similarly, expanding water surfaces nearby also has this effect, such as ponds, storage tanks, ditches and water vats. Greenhouses need curtains hung on the glass to block light and prevent heat. In hot weather, more attention should be paid to ventilation and strengthening air convection for heat dissipation, partially lifting the coverings on the shed; in the orchid room, open doors and windows to avoid accumulation of hot air. In temperature regulation, in addition to air temperature, attention should also be paid to soil temperature. Orchid roots grow in the soil, and the temperature of the pot soil has a direct impact on their physiological functions. Under general conditions, soil temperature and air temperature are positively correlated. When air temperature is high, pot soil temperature also rises, but the change process is relatively slow. First, prevent direct sunlight from shining on the flower pot and heating the soil and pot, which would burn the orchid roots close to the pot wall; also note that when watering, the water temperature should be close to the soil temperature and not too different. There is also a question worth discussing, namely the relationship between artificial protection and the orchid's own adaptability. Like all plants, orchids also have adaptability to the external environment. They are not inherently delicate. Therefore, when orchid growers protect orchids from heat and cold, their measures should be moderate. Covering too densely and for too long will inevitably weaken their stress resistance. In our orchid nursery, the Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium ensifolium introduced and domesticated from 600-1000 km away in the south, in addition to protective measures, are also gradually allowed to enhance their stress resistance and gradually adapt to the new environment.
4. Humidity. Humidity generally refers to relative humidity, commonly expressed as a percentage.
Orchids have no fibrous roots, still less root hairs, and their water-absorbing surface is small; on the contrary, orchid leaves grow in clusters. Leaf transpiration is relatively large, and only when the air is humid can the balance between water absorption and transpiration be maintained. In the original growing areas of orchids, rainfall is abundant during the growing season, the air is humid, and the relative air humidity is above 80%; especially Cymbidium sinense grows beside streams, where water mist is often pervasive, and the relative humidity is around 90%. One important reason why growing orchids in the north is difficult is dry air. Generally, it is not easy to succeed in growing orchids in urban homes and on balconies, and insufficient humidity is also a major factor. When air humidity is low, orchid leaves are rough, dim and lusterless; when air humidity is suitable, the leaf surface is moist and green. Usually the humidity required during the orchid growing season should not be lower than 70%, and in the winter dormancy period it is about 50%; air humidity at night should be somewhat higher than during the day. Humidity and ventilation are two relatively contradictory factors; too much ventilation lowers humidity. In winter and spring in the north, dry winds blow frequently and humidity cannot be maintained, which is unfavorable to orchid growth, so ventilation should be appropriately reduced.
Methods of regulating and increasing air humidity:
Plant many trees, bamboo and grass around the orchid nursery. The root systems of these plants can absorb large amounts of water from underground and then evaporate it from the leaves above ground. They can also retain surface moisture and gradually transpire, increasing the content of water molecules in the air, thereby raising air humidity. When the ground is dry, sprinkle water on the ground, stands and walls, which also has the effect of lowering temperature. Spraying or sprinkling water can also be done in the air space of the orchid-growing site or on the leaf surface. However, spraying or sprinkling water on the leaf surface should not be done at night. If water needs to be sprinkled on the leaf surface in the evening, it must be ensured that the leaf surface can return to dryness by night. In southern China, there are sometimes continuous rainy days, especially during the plum rain season when humidity is too high, so doors, windows and coverings should be opened for ventilation. Orchids like warmth and moisture; when humidity is high and ventilation is good, orchids grow robustly; but when the temperature is low and there is no ventilation, water vapor condenses into droplets, which is harmful to new shoots and easily causes disease, so low temperature and high humidity should be avoided. In our large-area ground-planted orchid seedling beds, bricks are laid around, and the surface is covered with green moss. Bricks and green moss have very strong water-absorbing and heat-preserving capacity, and this economical and convenient natural humidification measure is very effective.
5. Watering. When watering, attention should be paid to issues such as water quantity, water quality, water temperature, watering time and watering method.
In the classification of xerophytes, hydrophytes and mesophytes, orchids belong to mesophytes and do not need excessive water, so the pot soil should not be too wet. This is determined by the structural characteristics of orchid rhizomes. Orchid pseudobulbs are enlarged, with a cuticle on the surface, and the epidermal cells are thickened to form stone cells, with vascular bundles scattered throughout the stem. The pseudobulbs can store nutrients and water and are not easy to evaporate. Orchid roots are mostly fleshy, with the outermost layer being velamen tissue, whose cells are elongated and polygonal. When the velamen tissue cells mature, the protoplasm disintegrates and the cell walls develop thickened striations. The function of the velamen tissue is to protect the cortex, absorb water, and reduce and protect against the loss of water inside the cortex. Therefore, orchids should not be watered too frequently, and the pot soil should not be too wet, so as to avoid root rot. In addition, judging from the original producing areas of orchids, orchids mostly grow on hillsides, on both sides of mountain ridges, and in rock crevices. These places are well drained and free from the harm of accumulated moisture and standing water. It is precisely by adapting to such an environment that orchid rhizomes are structured to store and retain water and nutrients.
Principles of watering orchids:
It must be based on the following conditions:
(1) The type of orchid.
Epiphytic orchids and those with aerial roots can be watered less. For example, Cymbidium hookerianum has aerial roots and can absorb water from the air, so it does not need to be watered too much. In addition, those with thick cuticles on the leaves should be watered less. For example, the leaves of Tiegusu have a thick cuticle and low water evaporation, so watering must be strictly controlled.
(2) The growing season of the orchid.
In spring, as temperatures gradually rise, it is the season for new buds to sprout, so watering should be timely. Water once a day or every other day to keep the potting soil moist. If water is lacking during this period, flowers will be late and buds will not be strong. In summer, temperatures are high and water evaporates quickly; this is the period of leaf expansion, root emergence, and root and leaf elongation. Water once every morning, and in the evening if the potting soil is dry, add a little water to moisten the potting soil, thoroughly moisten the leaves, lower the temperature, and reduce nutrient consumption to benefit growth and development. Entering autumn, temperatures gradually drop and orchids grow slowly; observe the dryness and moisture of the potting soil every day, water when dry, and leave it alone when moist. In winter, orchids enter dormancy. The potting soil should be slightly dry; water less or not at all, but pay attention to the potting soil to prevent it from losing too much water and instead drawing water out of the roots. At the turn of winter and spring, after Cymbidium goeringii buds, the flower buds begin to elongate, so the potting soil should also maintain a certain humidity. If the potting soil is too wet in winter, the water content of the orchid plant increases, which easily causes cold damage.
(3) The growth condition of the orchid.
If the orchid is growing vigorously and the roots are good, water more; otherwise reduce as appropriate, and for diseased plants control moisture even more. When the orchid is sprouting and growing, it can take more water; after sprouting, gradually reduce it. When the new buds gradually mature, water should again be less; when flower buds appear, slightly more water; and during flowering, water should not be too much, in order to prolong the flowering period. After the flowers fade, stop watering for several days to let the potting soil dry slightly and the orchid rest briefly, then water again.
(4) The condition of the pot and the plant.
That is, water according to the texture and size of the pot: water more for clay pots and large pots, and less for porcelain pots and glazed pots. Water more when there are many potted plants or when ground-planted orchids are densely planted.
(5) The dryness and moisture of the potting soil.
The bases for watering such as season, plant, weather, pot, and soil quality can all be comprehensively reflected by the degree of dryness and moisture of the potting soil, so the dryness and moisture of the potting soil is the direct and intuitive basis for watering.
It can be judged by observation and touch. If the potting soil becomes hard, the color becomes lighter, and the moss on the pot surface is dry and wilted, it indicates the soil is dry. It should be watered immediately. If the potting soil is dark in color, has moisture, and the moss is moldy, it is a sign that the soil is too wet and should not be watered. Generally, a soil moisture content of 15%-20% is suitable.
(6) Watering time.
Generally speaking, spring and autumn are suitable for watering in the morning; during the hot midsummer period, it is suitable around sunrise and sunset; in early winter and early spring, water after the sun is overhead and the temperature has warmed slightly. During the period of moving indoors for the winter, watering must be done at noon on clear days. But care should be taken to avoid wetting the leaf surface or soaking into the leaf sheaths. Among the people, there are some very valuable experiences in watering orchids, such as for Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi: not dry in autumn, not wet in winter, and in spring liking moisture, in summer and autumn liking slight dampness, and in winter needing moisture with some dryness. This shows that orchids have different water requirements at each growth and development stage, and management should be adapted to local conditions and flexible. Generally after the Beginning of Spring, the climate gradually warms, the flower buds swell, and the soil should remain moist, with spraying once every 2-5 days. After Awakening of Insects, for flowerless Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi grown in the open, wind and sun make the pot water dry easily, so daily watering should be frequent, but the amount should not be too much; water once every 2-3 days or a small amount once a day. After the Beginning of Summer, for all orchids that have finished flowering (including Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense), the soil should be slightly drier, because after flowering most have a short dormant period, grow slowly, and lose less water through the leaves. From June, as the weather gradually becomes hot, the young shoots (that is, young buds) grow faster; at this time pay more attention to soil moisture and frequently spray the orchid leaves and orchid benches with clean water to create a small humid microclimate, which is beneficial for the young shoots to elongate and unfold leaves. During the plum rain season, watering should be controlled to reduce disease occurrence; leaf-variegated types and some petal-type seedlings are even more prone to disease, so even more attention should be paid. During the three fu periods, the climate is hot; in addition to strengthening shading, carefully maintain soil moisture and spray the leaves and pot surface with clean water around sunrise every day. After White Dew, it gradually turns cool in autumn, and with the nourishment of night dew, the growth of new plants pauses and orchid buds break through the soil and grow slowly; at this time reduce irrigation, but when the potting soil is found to be dry, it must be watered until moist. In late autumn, the new plants have changed from fresh green and tender green to deeper and darker colors. The flower buds and their shells are all visible; prevent prolonged rain and excessive moisture to reduce rotten sheaths (that is, rotting of the bud sheaths), and try to shelter from rain and expose them to more sunlight.
(7) Water quality and water temperature for watering.
For watering orchids, it is best to use stored rainwater, which is the cleanest and also neutral; river water is next; well water contains minerals and is mostly alkaline, so it is relatively poor; tap water contains disinfectants and is most unsuitable for orchids. If tap water must be used, it should be stored in a water tank for more than 24 hours, and better if exposed to sunlight, and after the disinfectant has settled or decomposed, take the clear water on top to water the orchids. In addition to this storage treatment, there is also an activation treatment, which is to keep fish, algae, Chlorella, red floating algae, and other aquatic organisms in the tank storing tap water to improve water quality. But pay attention to whether the fish have diseases, to prevent water pollution. The temperature of the potting soil can directly affect the water-absorbing function of orchid roots. Therefore, the temperature of the irrigation water should be very close to the potting soil temperature and air temperature. In hot summer, after the pot and soil have been heated by direct sunlight, if cold water is suddenly poured on them, the temperature difference between the two is too great, which will destroy the normal absorption function of the root system and affect physiological balance. Therefore, watering orchids in summer should be done in the morning and evening, when the water temperature and soil temperature are close. The water storage pool or water storage jar is best half buried in the soil, plus shading, so that the water temperature in summer will not become too high.
(8) Watering methods.
Common orchid watering methods include watering, spraying, and soaking. Usually a watering can, ladle, or hose is used for watering; when watering, slowly pour from the edge of the pot so that the water gradually seeps downward and toward the center, never suddenly pour it into the center of the leaf cluster, and do not let the water splash up the potting soil and pollute the leaves. Spraying should soak the entire pot, not just halfway, that is, with water on the surface layer while the lower layer gets none; if halfway watering is done for a long time, the surface is wet while the interior is dry, causing some orchid roots to be unable to absorb water for a long time and shrivel, while the upper orchid roots instead turn upward and grow, curling in disorder in the surface soil. Many people, for convenience and to save trouble, connect a rubber hose directly to the tap and irrigate the orchid pots, which is very harmful: first, the tap water has not been treated, and the bleaching agent is harmful to orchids; second, the water temperature differs greatly from the soil temperature; third, watering cannot be differentiated according to different situations. The spraying method is to use a spray can to spray water on the leaf surface, which can both increase air humidity and soil moisture and wash away dirt on the leaf surface; this method is often used during the orchid growing season. Do not spray too much each time; the degree should be that the leaf surface is wet but water does not run off. If too much water is poured into the leaf center, it will rot the new shoots if it remains for a long time. The nozzle holes of the spray can should be fine and dense, and the water droplets fine and even. The soaking method is also called seep watering, that is, placing the bottom of the orchid pot into shallow water and letting the water gradually moisten the potting soil. The soaking time must not be too long; as soon as the surface soil is seen to be moist, take the orchid pot out immediately. This method can keep the orchid leaf surface clean. In dry seasons, the orchid pot can also be placed in a shallow tray, and the pot absorbs the accumulated water in the tray and then moistens the potting soil, thus maintaining relatively stable soil moisture. The disadvantage is that the bottom hole of the pot is blocked by water, and air permeability is affected to a certain extent.
6. Light and sunshine. Light refers to the quality and quantity of sunlight, including wavelength, spectral composition, and light intensity. Sunshine refers to the duration of sunlight; generally, more than 14 hours of illumination is long-day, and less than 14 hours is short-day. Among plants, those that need long days to flower are called long-day plants; conversely, those that need short days to flower are called short-day plants. Light and sunshine are closely related to the growth and development of orchids.
The orchid's requirements for light:
A floral proverb: shade for camellias, sun for peonies, half shade and half sun for the four-season orchid. This shows that different flowers and trees have different sunlight requirements, and orchids need half-shade and half-sun light conditions. The effect of light on leaf color -- orchids have long grown in mountain forests and developed shade-tolerant habits, disliking direct strong light. When light is too strong, the leaf color becomes light green; if suddenly exposed to strong light, the leaf color quickly turns yellow, the leaf surface becomes rough, and even the leaves scorch. With moderate light, the leaves are green, fine in texture, and glossy; with too weak light, the leaf color is dark green and loses its luster. The effect of light on sprouting -- the strength of light has a direct impact on the number of leaf buds and flower buds, the time they emerge from the soil, and their growth condition. With too weak light, orchids produce more leaf buds and fewer flower buds, and grow poorly. Therefore, starting some time before flower bud formation, appropriately increasing light can promote flower bud differentiation and achieve more flowering. The effect of light on flower color and flowering -- orchid flower color is mainly determined by flower pigments, and the violet light and ultraviolet light in light are the main light energy forming orchid pigments. Therefore, strong light makes flower color deeper and more vivid; excessively weak light makes flower color extremely pale, so that compared with normal it may be mistaken for another variety. For example, in ancient times Ningbo, Zhejiang had a kind of snow orchid, produced on shady north-facing mountain slopes; if planted in a pot and exposed to a little sunlight, it immediately turned green, and so it was regarded as rare and precious, but today it is often encountered during field collection, and it can also be obtained through artificial cultivation. Some people use this to commit fraud and pass it off as a new variety, and those with insufficient experience are often deceived. If other conditions are the same, orchid pots placed in positions with stronger light bloom first, because the accumulated illumination and accumulated temperature first reach a certain value. Some people have experimented and found that extending the light period to 14-16 hours can promote earlier flowering in medium plants and small seedlings; but for mature orchid plants, a light period of no more than 8 hours can promote flowering. For orchids that bloom in winter, short days and long nights and low-temperature conditions must be met to promote flowering. For orchids that bloom in summer, long days and short nights and high temperatures are required to promote flowering. For orchids with flower buds, to promote earlier flowering, appropriately extend light and increase temperature. In a small room, a 100-watt bulb can raise the room temperature by 3°C-5°C and can promote earlier flowering. The relationship between light and leaf variegation -- leaf variegation is the cultivation technique in which lines or spots appear on the leaves. Leaf variegation is related to light. Changes in light can be used to promote changes in leaf variegation. The method is to use robust growing orchid seedlings, with more than three plants connected together; before 9 o'clock in summer and before 10 o'clock in winter, expose the orchid pot to sunlight, insert a thermometer into the pot, and when it reaches 30°C move it into the shade. When it drops to 25°C, move it out into sunlight again. Repeat this over the long term. One shade and one sun, one cold and one hot, are beneficial for the appearance of variable factors within the leaves; over months and years, hard work pays off, and variegated leaves may appear. But this must be premised on the existence of recessive factors for leaf variegation within the orchid leaves; the change in sunlight merely promotes their manifestation.
The basis and methods for regulating orchid light:
Liking half-shade and half-sun light is common to most Cymbidium plants, but there are also differences among species. Species that bloom in spring, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum, and Cymbidium goeringii 'Songchun', need relatively weaker light, and the shading degree should be controlled between 70%-80%. Species that bloom in summer and autumn, such as Cymbidium faberi 'Xiahui' and Cymbidium ensifolium 'Qiusu', need slightly stronger light, and their shading degree should be controlled between 60%-70%; Cymbidium sinense needs about 85%. The illumination time and intensity of spring, summer, autumn, and winter are all different, so they should be treated separately and the shading degree adjusted well. Within a day, morning and evening sunlight can be allowed, but the fierce midday sun must be blocked and regulated, and on cloudy days the shading degree should be reduced. It is worth noting that after summer rainstorms, or when it first clears after long rain, orchid pots must not be exposed to the sun; predecessors' experience: if exposed to the sun right after rain, the water in the pot is hot, which scalds the leaves and injures the roots. Although orchids are relatively shade-tolerant, they also have phototropism; in the same cultivation site, the flowers and leaves on the sunny side are always more luxuriant. Over time, this makes the growth of flowers and leaves uneven and causes them to lean to one side. For symmetry and beauty, the direction of the orchid pots should be rotated and adjusted at intervals. If for special needs of shaping or composition, in order to express a specific poetic or pictorial mood, the position of the light source can also be used to strengthen the tendency of flowers and leaves, achieving the beauty of dynamic balance and satisfying appreciation needs. To regulate shading degree and light duration, there are usually the following methods: Buildings -- build greenhouses, orchid pavilions, waterside pavilions, and orchid corridors to place orchids, and use the light-transmitting and sun-shading properties of such buildings to regulate light. As long as the orchid pots are placed appropriately, the expected effect can be achieved; in the sunny areas of these buildings, bamboo blinds or shade nets can be hung for regulation. For potted orchids kept on balconies, light is regulated by carrying them in and out; although laborious, it also cultivates enjoyment, and combining flower growing with fitness is a pleasure in itself. Building sheds -- shade sheds can be built with bamboo, wood, angle steel, etc., covered with bamboo blinds, plastic film, shade nets, etc. Our method of regulating light intensity is to use bamboo frames in the orchid nursery, on which are set two layers of shade nets with 50%-70% shading rates; the upper layer is relatively fixed and only rolled up in winter, while the lower layer can be put down or rolled up. In midsummer use two layers; in spring and autumn use one layer; at noon on clear days in summer and autumn use two layers, and on cloudy and rainy days one layer. In winter, it depends on the situation: on clear days put down the lower layer, on cloudy days roll up the lower layer, because in winter the light changes inside the plastic greenhouse must not be too great; if too great, temperature and humidity will also change accordingly, which is unfavorable for orchid hibernation. In addition, before orchid flower buds are ready to open, they must have moderate scattered sunlight, otherwise the flower color will be dull and not show its beauty. Building racks -- on the orchid cultivation site, build bamboo racks, wooden racks, or reinforced concrete racks and let vines such as grapes, honeysuckle, morning glory, Chinese trumpet creeper, and cypress vine climb and spread over them, which both shades and is beautiful and practical. Deciduous vines shade in summer and let light through in winter, which is a natural regulation. Planting trees -- around the orchid nursery, select and plant evergreen trees, deciduous trees, and bamboos of different heights in combination to regulate light intensity.7. Fertilization. Orchid roots have no fibrous roots, and within the roots there are symbiotic bacteria.
The root bacteria absorb mineral nutrients from outside and supply them to the orchid, while the orchid root cells provide water and organic nutrients to the root bacteria, forming a mutually beneficial and coexisting symbiotic relationship. But they must maintain a stable balance between them in order to grow luxuriantly. Preparing suitable nutrient soil and fertilizing appropriately to maintain the balance between the two can promote vigorous orchid growth. Previously some people thought that orchids grow in the mountains and are naturally refined, so clear water and fresh air alone could sustain them. Others loved orchids too deeply and were too impatient, often applying strong, high-concentration heavy fertilizer, causing results contrary to their wishes. Therefore we must seriously explore scientific and reasonable fertilization.
(1) Types of fertilizer.
Fertilizers can be distinguished by their effective components, fertilizer properties, and fertilizer usage. By effective components, they are mainly nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorus fertilizer, and potassium fertilizer. Nitrogen is the main component of cell nuclei and proteins, and also an indispensable element in forming chlorophyll. Nitrogen fertilizer can make orchid leaves luxuriant and robust; otherwise the leaves droop and soften, sprouting is difficult, and the reproduction rate is low. Commonly used nitrogen fertilizers include compost, night soil and urine, urea, green manure, ammonium sulfate, and ammonium nitrate. Phosphorus is also a main component of cell nuclei and directly affects cell division, chlorophyll formation, and protein synthesis and transformation within plant cells, and can promote flower bud differentiation and growth and contribute to larger flowers, brighter color, and stronger fragrance. Commonly used phosphorus fertilizers include superphosphate, monopotassium phosphate, phosphate rock powder, bone meal, and rice-washing water. Potassium directly participates in photosynthesis, can make cell physiology normal, and is also related to the synthesis of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. Potassium fertilizer can make orchid stems, leaves, and roots grow robustly, make leaves tough and not easily broken, and enhance cold resistance and disease resistance, and can also increase flower fragrance. Commonly used potassium fertilizers include plant ash and potassium sulfate; monopotassium phosphate is also a fertilizer containing relatively much potassium. In addition to the three main elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, orchids also need various trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, and zinc; these can be satisfied in the prepared culture soil and generally do not need to be added separately. The requirements for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are relatively large and must be solved through fertilization, repotting, and soil changing. By fertilizer properties, they can generally be divided into organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers include compost, green manure, barnyard manure, and cake fertilizer. Before use, organic fertilizer must be fully fermented, and the fermentation time must be at least more than one month. Organic fertilizer can improve soil structure, increase soil humus, make soil air permeability and water retention good, and its fertilizer effect is also long, continuously decomposing long-lasting nutrients for orchid absorption. Inorganic fertilizer, also called chemical fertilizer, has high nutrient content, is clean and odorless, and can be diluted and used immediately without fermentation; it is convenient and fast-acting, but lasts only a short time, and long-term use can worsen soil structure. Generally orchid growers oppose the use of chemical fertilizers. In fact, if orchids are mainly given organic fertilizer and chemical fertilizer is used in combination, the effect is still very good. By fertilizer usage, they can be divided into base fertilizer and topdressing. Base fertilizer is the fertilizer added to the soil when preparing culture soil or before planting, such as leaf mold, grass compost, and chaff soil, which are both the substrate for cultivating orchids and base fertilizer. Silkworm droppings, night soil, cow dung, bone meal, hair, and cake fertilizer can all be used as base fertilizer added to the bottom of the pot or turned under the soil as base fertilizer, but chicken manure and human feces are taboo.
(2) Topdressing is fertilizer applied during the growing season after orchids are planted.
Generally orchids are repotted and the soil changed only 2-3 years after planting, and nutrients must be supplemented in between, so topdressing should be applied.
Fertilization time:
During the spring and summer growing period of orchids, to make orchids grow robustly and vigorously, more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied. For leaf-variegated varieties, apply less nitrogen fertilizer or none, because dark green leaf color will affect the appreciation effect of leaf variegation. Do not fertilize when the summer temperature is above 30°C, because the potting soil temperature is relatively high, water evaporates too quickly, and the concentration of residual fertilizer increases, which is harmful to growth. If fertilized too frequently in summer, it easily stimulates autumn shoots, and the plants that grow later will be short and weak, and the next year's spring shoots will be inhibited as a result. Do not fertilize when the temperature is below 10°C, because at this time the orchid is in a semi-dormant state and does not absorb nutrients. Fertilizer should only be applied when sunlight and temperature are suitable and photosynthesis is vigorous. In winter, orchids are dormant, so there is even less need to fertilize. Before orchid new buds grow to half-maturity from the pseudobulb, and around the time leaf buds emerge from the soil and during their elongation period, this is the vegetative growth stage of orchids, and slightly more nitrogen fertilizer should be applied, with less phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After vegetative growth comes reproductive growth; the nutrients produced by photosynthesis are stored in the pseudobulbs and leaves for flowering or new bud growth. At this time, more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is needed; applying appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can promote the pseudobulbs to become plump and mature and to sprout and bloom. If orchid leaves are pale and yellow and the plant is weak, it is mostly caused by fertilizer deficiency, and topdressing should be applied in time. But sometimes leaves also turn yellow due to excessive sunlight. Diseased plants should not be fertilized; fertilizer should be applied only after the disease is cured and the plant recovers. Robust orchid seedlings can be helped by more fertilizer.
Ancient orchid growers had experience:
Never suddenly fertilize a thin orchid. Never let a fat orchid stay thin for long. This means that a thin orchid that has never been fertilized cannot suddenly be given strong fertilizer, as it cannot absorb it and it will be harmful. For orchids that are regularly fertilized, one also cannot go a long time without fertilizing. In short, uneven fatness and thinness is not beneficial to orchids. Usually Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, and Cymbidium ensifolium begin fertilization in early May. In the three fu periods of summer and from December to early February of the following year, do not fertilize. From May, apply light fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks until the end of September. In early September apply light fertilizer once to Cymbidium goeringii, and in late September fertilize Cymbidium ensifolium once. After each fertilization, clean water must be watered in the next morning to facilitate orchid absorption and also prevent improper concentration from injuring orchid roots. Generally, do not fertilize before and after flowering.
(3) Fertilization methods.
Fertilization must mainly use organic fertilizer, which can make the soil loose and well structured and benefit orchid growth. Also apply thin fertilizer frequently, that is, the predecessors' experience of frequent light application, and absolutely avoid sudden heavy application, which is what people today mean by small amounts and many meals. When applying, dilute the water-fertilizer appropriately, then use a watering can to pour it into the root zone, and do not pollute the orchid leaves. If chemical fertilizer is used, the concentration must be even lower. During the orchid growing season, a water solution of 2‰ urea and 2‰ monopotassium phosphate can be used as topdressing 2-3 times.
8. Ventilation.
Ventilation is also very important in orchid cultivation and management, but it is often overlooked by people. 146 Zhuhong Xinsu (Beijing). Good ventilation continuously supplies orchids with sufficient fresh air, can promote photosynthesis, increase nutrient production, promote metabolism, and make orchids luxuriant. Ventilation in orchid rooms and shade sheds can regulate their temperature and humidity, making them beneficial to orchid growth, and can also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases. Orchid brown spot disease and southern blight often occur in poorly ventilated environments. The orchid cultivation site must be open, the terrain should be slightly high, the flower bench should not be too low, and attention should always be paid to ventilation. Orchids like gentle and mild breezes, not sharp winds, and excessively cold or strong winds should be avoided by whatever means. Orchid pots should be placed sparsely rather than densely, and sufficient distance should be kept between orchid pots to prevent leaves from rubbing against each other in the wind and being damaged. If the site is small, the flower bench can be built in a stepped shape, which facilitates ventilation and is also convenient for management and viewing. Each orchid pot should not contain too many or too densely planted plants. If the plants multiply too densely, they should be repotted and divided in time. Frequently remove weeds, diseased leaves, fallen tree leaves, and other debris from orchid pots to facilitate ventilation within the pots. Daily work for ground-planted orchids throughout the four seasons: In spring, around Qingming, remove the plastic film from the greenhouse, then water thoroughly once; several days later apply once a 15-20 times diluted duck feather water or fertilizer water made by fermenting cake fertilizer. At the same time, spray once with 1‰ omethoate (containing 40% effective ingredient) to kill insects. From May to July, apply once a month a fertilizer water made with 5% duck feather water or cake fertilizer. In August, apply once a 3‰-5‰ compound fertilizer. After entering autumn, no more fertilizer is applied. Autumn management is extremely important; we summarize it in two words: autumn tempering. That is, after entering autumn, orchids are no longer fertilized, water is controlled, and light is increased to promote early maturity. Generally potted orchids should follow the golden rules of orchid care: do not take them out in spring, do not sun them in summer, do not let them dry in autumn, and do not keep them wet in winter. But ground-planted orchids are not entirely like this; in autumn they should rather be dry than wet. The reason is: although the air is dry in autumn, ground qi still rises from the soil, so there is not severe water shortage; moreover, drought can temper the orchid's cold resistance and prepare it for overwintering. Autumn tempering can promote nutrients to gather in the pseudobulbs, increase the protoplasm concentration of the pseudobulbs, lower the freezing point, and prevent cold damage. If in autumn the orchid seedlings grow vigorously, and then a cold wave comes and the temperature drops sharply, they will inevitably suffer cold damage. Ground-planted orchids cannot be moved indoors before severe winter arrives, so only through autumn tempering can they survive. November is a relatively busy season in the orchid nursery, mainly to prepare for orchid overwintering. First remove the upper shade net, then install the plastic greenhouse; the two ends of the greenhouse are initially not closed, and are closed only when the temperature drops noticeably, and opened for ventilation at noon on clear days. This month, spray once with 1:1 Bordeaux mixture. Entering the severe winter season, first, one must not water easily; second, moderately increase light. The so-called moderate means that in winter some clear days have relatively high temperatures, especially with the warming winter phenomenon in recent years; at such times the lower shade net should be put down so that the temperature in the shed does not rise or fall sharply. If the shade net is not put down, and the temperature in the shed reaches 18°C-22°C for several consecutive days, some new buds will begin to sprout, and once a cold wave arrives and the temperature drops sharply, they will undoubtedly be frostbitten. Therefore, in winter a dormant environment must be created for orchids, and dormancy must not be easily broken. In early spring, cold and warm air masses move frequently over the land, so management must be even more careful; otherwise orchid seedlings that have consumed nutrients through the winter are very likely to wither and yellow. Gradually and moderately increase light; do not remove the plastic film too early, and remove it only after the weather is stable and clear in early April.
1. Potting soil requirements: It is best to use neutral to slightly acidic soil containing a large amount of humus, loose and well drained, with a pH generally around 5.5 to 6.5. In Sichuan, Emei Xiantu and "Xinghong brand" refined orchid planting material are often used, and more commonly "bamboo root mud" and leaf mold from moist forests in mountainous areas are used to cultivate orchids.
2. Placement site: Orchids can be cultivated outdoors and on balconies in spring, summer, and autumn, and a site with good ventilation, moist air, and no environmental pollution should be chosen. Being near ponds and riversides is of course good, but at least there should be tall trees or bamboo groves and shade nets to reduce sunlight exposure and lower temperature. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden racks (or steel racks); if placed on the ground, bricks should be used underneath. For home balconies, a small galvanized iron water tank can be used to store water with bricks placed on top for cultivation, increasing humidity.
3. Appropriate shading: Most orchids belong to semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight and need appropriate shading. In early to mid-April, orchids can have the nets removed and windows opened, and receive more sunlight to promote growth. In May, except for the midday sun, they can receive 6 hours of light; from June, shade all day, and after October, except for the midday sun, they can be fully exposed for care. Remember the proverb: "More shade makes good leaves, more sun makes good flowers."
4. Reasonable fertilization: Orchids are naturally "vegetarian," and fertilization should depend on the selected potting soil and growth condition. Those growing luxuriantly and without disease can be fertilized, while those growing poorly should not be fertilized or only lightly fertilized. Newly planted orchids whose roots have not fully developed should be fertilized only after 1-2 years. Generally in June-July, when orchid leaf buds have elongated to about 1.5 cm, apply once every three weeks a fully fermented liquid fertilizer (dilute concentration, about 10%). Avoid chemical fertilizer; in high-temperature seasons it is not suitable to fertilize. From August to September, apply once every two to three weeks a diluted liquid fertilizer. Orchids should be fertilized in the evening each time, and clean water should be watered in the morning, called "return water."
5. Appropriate watering: For watering orchids, rainwater and spring water are best; tap water or rice-washing water should be left overnight before use. When watering, pour from the edge of the pot, and do not pour into the flower buds. The amount of watering should be determined according to temperature, the dryness and moisture of the potting soil, and the growth condition of the orchid. Water more when there are many leaves, and less when the leaves are fine. From April to May, when new buds have not yet emerged from the soil, the potting soil should be somewhat dry; if too wet, new buds rot easily. From June to September, which is the new bud growth period of orchids, the amount of watering should be increased; on clear days water once every morning or once a day, and never water under the fierce midday sun. In autumn, appropriately reduce the amount of water; leaf-surface misting can be used, and it is better to keep the potting soil moist. In winter, water should be controlled even more, and it is suitable to maintain "80% dry, 20% wet."
6. Evening misting: Orchids originally grow in humid air environments, so in dry seasons, in addition to shading, evening misting must be done to increase air humidity and lower temperature; water can also be poured on the ground (bench surface) where potted orchids are placed; "one cold and one hot" can even more stimulate orchid growth.
7. Wind and rain protection: The "February ghost wind" causing old leaves to yellow and fall is a normal phenomenon, and dead branches and withered leaves can be cut off. Orchids can be exposed to light rain, but avoid moldy rain, rainstorms, or continuous rain, otherwise they easily rot at the heart and leaves. In seasons with much rain, a small amount of plant ash can be appropriately scattered.
8. Pruning and flower removal: During orchid cultivation, withered yellow broken leaves and diseased leaves should often be cut off to facilitate ventilation. For precious orchids, if there are too many flower buds, keep only the strong buds, with 1-2 flower buds per pot being suitable. Cymbidium goeringii flowers should be removed half a month after blooming, and precious orchids should be removed after 7 days, so that spring leaf buds grow robustly and bring better flowering the following year. For summer orchids, when the last flower on the inflorescence has been open for one week, cut it off 3 cm above the pot surface.
9. Cold protection and warmth: Because orchid varieties differ, their places of origin differ, and their cold resistance also differs, the time to move them indoors in winter and their indoor placement positions are also different. Cymbidium kanran, autumn orchids, and Cymbidium sinense grow in the south and should be moved indoors (or have windows closed and nets drawn) when the temperature is 5°C, and placed as much as possible in a south-facing sunny spot. Spring and summer orchids have stronger cold resistance and can be moved indoors only when the temperature reaches 0°C, placed on the northeast side. Around noon on clear, windless days, open windows and draw nets on the south or southeast side for ventilation. Autumn orchids should not have windows opened on clear days at 1-2°C. Of course, if there is a greenhouse, electric light heating can be used.
10. Disease and pest control: Potting soil should generally be sterilized (sun exposure can also be used) to prevent disease occurrence. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons; for a small amount, it can be brushed off with a wet cloth, and for many pots, 500-800 times Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate can be used, sprayed once every 7-10 days. Among pests, scale insects (commonly known as "orchid lice") occur more often; during the hatching period, use 1% omethoate and 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times solution, sprayed once a week. To treat the symptoms one must treat the root cause: pots should be arranged with appropriate spacing, placed high and low, increasing air permeability and ventilation, to reduce disease occurrence.
However, different orchids have different cultivation methods.
Several aspects to note in orchid cultivation
Our country has a long history of orchid cultivation, and predecessors have accumulated rich experience in orchid growing for us. We should thoroughly understand the experience of our predecessors, absorb its essence, and deeply recognize that: cultivation environment, planting material, watering, fertilization, and prevention and control of disease and pest damage are the five major links in orchid cultivation and management.
1. The choice of environment is relatively important. Cymbidium faberi mainly grows under shrubs in subtropical mountain forests, and has developed the growth habits of orchids liking half shade and half sun and liking moisture and ventilation. As long as the growth rules of orchids are mastered and environmental conditions close to the orchid's growth are provided or created, all parts of the country are suitable for cultivating Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi.
2. Use of planting material. According to cultivation experience in various places, as long as it is slightly acidic, no matter what planting material is used (including soilless culture), orchids can be grown well; the problem is that different planting materials should be managed with different methods. Flower pots are best made of clay pots or Yixing clay pots, because orchids are aerial-root plants and pot air permeability is very beneficial to orchid growth.
3. Reasonable watering is the key to growing orchids well. The water for watering orchids must be clean and slightly acidic, and never sewage carrying pathogens. The watering method should differ according to the plant. Loose mountain mud holds sufficient water, and granular soil plus volcanic rock with stones also absorbs water relatively fully but does not accumulate water. After different planting materials have been watered thoroughly once, when the pot surface is seen to be dry, the planting material about one centimeter deep turns white. To increase air temperature, the pot surface can be sprayed to increase the moisture of the upper pot planting material so that the orchid and pseudobulbs maintain a certain moisture; when the whole pot, top and bottom, has not dried thoroughly, water heavily and thoroughly again.
4. Fertilization: On the basis of mastering watering well, in order to promote better growth of the orchid, fertilization becomes even more important. Organic fertilizer, that is, farmyard manure, should be dilute and can be applied once every ten or more days. Other inorganic fertilizers (chemical fertilizers) should be used according to the instructions. During the orchid growing season, foliar fertilizer can be applied as a root-outside topdressing. Base fertilizer is also very important. When repotting and changing soil, if the fertilizer does not contact the orchid roots, an appropriate amount of base fertilizer can be added; too much fertilizer easily burns orchid roots and causes black spots, while proper fertilization can produce strong seedlings and good flowers. The overall requirement for fertilizing orchids is small amount, clear, dilute, and light, truly achieving thin fertilizer applied frequently.
5. Pest and disease control: Insect pests are easy to prevent, fungal diseases are hard to cure. If scale insects and other pests are found on orchids, omethoate or decis can be sprayed according to the instructions, best used in combination, 2-4 times a year. General fungal diseases such as black spot can also be treated with fungicides such as copper hydroxide, methyl thiophanate, and chlorothalonil according to the instructions, with regular alternating treatment and preventive spraying every 15-20 days during the growing season. If Buras soft rot (rot-coccus disease) is found, it is an incurable disease among orchids and cannot be cured at all; once found, remove it promptly. Therefore, when purchasing orchids, one must pay attention and absolutely not buy lower-priced diseased plants home, thereby affecting other precious orchids.
Different orchid species have different temperature requirements. For Chinese orchids, the most suitable temperature for vegetative growth is 20-30 degrees, the adaptive temperature is 5-35 degrees, and the temperature for the reproductive period is generally between 5-15 degrees. At night it is 3-5 degrees lower than during the day. When the summer temperature is above 30 degrees, the higher the temperature, the more orchid growth is hindered. But under ventilated conditions, Chinese orchids are not harmed by short periods of high temperature up to 35-42 degrees. When the temperature is below 12 degrees, growth is slow. When the temperature is below 12 degrees, Chinese orchids shift to reproductive growth. Cymbidium sinense originally grows in subtropical mountain forests; in summer, daytime temperatures can reach about 32 degrees, while at night it is cooler, with temperatures generally not exceeding 20 degrees, and winter temperatures do not drop below 10 degrees. Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium ensifolium originally grow in mountain forests transitional to the subtropics. Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi mostly grow in temperate mountain forests; in temperate regions, summer temperatures can reach about 38 degrees, but in shaded mountain forests daytime temperatures do not exceed 30 degrees, and at night are about 18 degrees. In winter, under short-term snow cover, the surface temperature is still above 5 degrees, and flowering is not affected. Indoors they can also overwinter at about 0 degrees. The suitable growth temperature for Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum is 18-28°C, not exceeding 35°C in summer, and not lower than minus 2°C in winter; the reproductive growth temperature is 8-18°C. The temperature requirements for Cymbidium tortisepalum are generally not lower than -12°C in winter; in the reproductive period in spring and autumn, the temperature should not be lower than 12°C; in the summer growing period, the temperature is mostly suitable between 15°C-32°C, with 35°C or above as the critical line for growth; beyond this limit, growth stops again.
The driving force of orchid life -- light
"All things grow relying on the sun." This sentence highly summarizes the enormous role of light in the growth, development, and continuation of generations of living things, especially plants. The orchid itself relies on the photosynthesis of green leaves to obtain energy to maintain and continue life and carry on the family line; sunlight is the driving force of orchid life. But for orchids, which require half-shade and half-sun habits, excessively strong light is also harmful to orchid growth. It is necessary to regulate and control light suitable for orchids according to temperature, humidity, and the growth habits formed under the ecological environments of various orchids in different seasons, so as to satisfy and benefit the survival and growth of orchids. Below, regarding the close relationship between light and orchids, I will discuss some immature views and explore them with orchid friends, which may be somewhat useful for growing orchids well:
Below we discuss from five aspects:
1. The relationship between light and orchid growth.
2. The effects of light on orchid leaves, buds, and flowers:
3. The role of light in orchid fertilization and sterilization.
4. The light intensity for orchids.
5. Artificial regulation of light.
1. The relationship between light and orchid growth.
Suitable light can promote normal orchid growth: orchid growth relies on the photosynthesis of green leaves to obtain energy to maintain and continue life, and light's effect on photosynthesis in Cymbidium plants is completed through light quantity and light quality.
① "Light quantity." That is, light intensity. Plant photosynthesis changes with changes in light intensity, and photosynthetic intensity is directly proportional to light intensity. That is, when light intensity doubles or halves, photosynthetic intensity also doubles or halves. Through the chemical action of chlorophyll in orchid leaves, light absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen to increase the nutrients needed by the orchid body. The pseudobulbs and roots digest and decompose at night, converting carbon dioxide into sugar, then forming various required proteins, and through the flow and pressure of water and air, transport them to all parts of the whole plant, so that potted orchids can grow shoots and bloom. Photosynthesis has a heat limit and a cold limit, that is, maximum temperature and minimum temperature, also called the critical points of photosynthesis. Too much and too strong sunlight, exceeding the critical point, can cause leaf dwarfing, yellowing, and even premature aging without growing grass, and gradual decline and death. Conversely, if light is insufficient, although the plant still grows, the nutrients produced are not enough, which is likewise unfavorable to the healthy growth of orchids. Therefore, the height of a plant's light compensation point and light saturation point directly affects the accumulation of organic matter and healthy growth of orchids. To make crops grow well, attention should be paid to lowering the light compensation point and raising the light saturation point. The usual measures are: sun plants should be reasonably densely planted, group development controlled, and the plants ensured sufficient light; if natural light is insufficient, increase artificial light. Shade plants should be moderately shaded on the premise of satisfying their photosynthetic intensity as much as possible. Letting orchids have relatively abundant light of sufficient duration is beneficial.
② "Light quality." The regulation of light should consider not only light quantity but also light quality. The intensity of plant photosynthesis varies with light quality. Sunlight contains seven kinds of visible light as well as invisible light such as ultraviolet. But orchid leaves respond only to red, orange, yellow, and blue-violet series of light. Different colors of sunlight differ in their effect on plant photosynthesis; red light and blue-violet light are more efficient, while yellow-green light is less efficient. Not only does photosynthetic intensity differ, but photosynthetic products are also not completely the same; for example, plants grown under blue-violet light have more protein and fat in their photosynthetic products, while those formed under red light have more carbohydrates. Infrared light irradiation is beneficial to plant cell division, and in plants it manifests as thickening; far-infrared light irradiation is beneficial to plant cell elongation, and in plants it manifests as growing taller; ultraviolet light irradiation is beneficial to shortening the internodes of orchids, and in plants it manifests as dwarfing. Therefore, orchid supplementary lighting should set different light qualities according to the specific growth condition and requirements of orchid seedlings (ordinary incandescent lamps have less blue-violet light and more infrared light than the sun; fluorescent lamps have more blue-violet and green light and less red light; the visible light portion of xenon lamps is similar to sunlight, but ultraviolet and infrared light are greater than in sunlight). Orchid cultivation generally uses more red light and blue-violet light. Experts suggest that supplementary lighting for Chinese orchid cultivation should use more red light. Of course, if conditions permit, choosing plant lights specially designed for orchid supplementary lighting is even better.
In short, according to the type of photosynthetic products required above, one should comprehensively consider and make up for deficiencies, select suitable light sources, and promote the normal growth of orchids.
2. The effects of light on orchid leaves, buds, and flowers:
1. The effect of light on orchid leaves.
① Orchid leaves under different light: Orchids have long grown in mountain forests and developed half-shade and half-sun habits, liking scattered light and not direct strong light. When light is too strong, orchid leaves tend to be shorter, thicker and stiffer, with a rough leaf surface, and the leaf color becomes light green. If suddenly exposed to strong light, the leaf color quickly turns yellow, the leaf surface becomes rough, and even the leaves scorch. With moderate light, the leaves are green, fine in texture, glossy, and grow robustly. With too weak light, the leaf color is emerald green, and the leaf texture is thin and long without luster. In short, the stronger the light, the yellower the leaf color; the weaker the light, the deeper the green. Too strong or too weak both affect the perfect growth of orchids.
② Changes in light can promote the manifestation of leaf variegation. Plants with the possibility of variable variegation can receive a longer light period. For line-variegated orchids, sunlight from 6 a.m. to 9 a.m. is best. Someone did an experiment; the method was: before 9 o'clock in summer and before 10 o'clock in winter, expose the orchid pot to sunlight, insert a thermometer into the pot, and when it reaches 30°C move it into the shade. When it drops to 25°C, move it out into sunlight again. Repeat this over the long term. One shade and one sun, one cold and one hot, are beneficial for the appearance of variable factors within the leaves; over months and years, variegated leaves may appear. But this must be premised on the existence of recessive factors for leaf variegation within the orchid leaves; the change in sunlight merely promotes their manifestation and has no necessary connection. White-spotted cells are the decisive factor and play the decisive role in orchid line variegation changes.
2. The effect of light on sprouting. Light can increase the sprouting rate of orchids. Orchid sprouting cannot rely solely on water and fertilizer management; appropriately increasing light is very critical. The sprouting rate under strong sunlight is generally high. Strengthening light can not only increase the sprouting rate, but also make new buds stronger.
① Orchids planted shallowly sprout more. Orchid growers generally believe that for orchids, "deep planting is not as good as shallow planting." This is because when orchids are planted deep, the pseudobulbs are buried deeply and receive less light; under the same fertilizer, water, and management conditions, deeply buried pseudobulbs are small and sprout less in spring. When planted shallowly (with half the pseudobulb exposed outside the soil), the pseudobulbs are large and sprout more in spring. This is closely related to the spectrum and the length of light duration. It also demonstrates the reason why light can increase the sprouting rate of orchids.
②Light promotes flower bud differentiation, helping to achieve more blooms. This is because light is the source of nutrients for flower bud differentiation and growth. Light intensity has a direct effect on the number of leaf buds and flower buds, their emergence time, and their growth status. Orchids receiving sufficient light produce more nutrients through photosynthesis, develop more flower buds, bloom more profusely, have deeper flower colors, and larger, finer flower shapes. Conversely, orchids under too-weak light may grow lushly but produce insufficient nutrients, resulting in many leaf buds and few flower buds. Even if they bloom, the flower colors tend to be pale, the flower shapes poorer, and the growth poor. Therefore, starting some time before flower bud formation, appropriately increasing light can promote flower bud differentiation and achieve the goal of more blooms.
3. The effect of light on flowering:
①Light intensity and flower color changes. Sunlight is the fundamental source of color for all things in the world. The seven colors of the rainbow can change in infinite ways, and the original colors of orchids are composed of ever-changing primal light. Violet light and ultraviolet light in the spectrum are the main light energies that form orchid pigments. Therefore, sunlight has a direct effect on colored orchids. Strong light produces deeper, more vivid flower colors; excessively weak light produces very pale flower colors. For example, to make red-flowered varieties beautiful, sunlight can be slightly increased; to make blue-green varieties produce beautiful flowers, sunlight should be reduced. Colored orchids should be appropriately shaded during the flowering season, because under sunlight they do not absorb red and green light, while petal-form orchids should receive more sun to thicken the petals. When growing colored orchids, paying attention to and controlling light during cultivation can make flower colors more beautiful. Green and white flowers need reduced light; red, yellow, pink, and purple flowers need increased light. For example, Spring Orchid (Cymbidium goeringii) opening in shade has better flower quality and color than when opening in sun (except colored flowers), and the flower stalks are also longer. Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium ensifolium benefit from stronger light for flowering, producing larger flowers, better color, and fragrance. Therefore, controlling and adjusting reasonable light is a cultivation technique that must be mastered to fully express the best flower color.
②The effect of light on orchid opening.
For orchids with flower buds, promoting early or delayed flowering can be achieved by regulating the length of the light period. Appropriately extend lighting and increase temperature. For example, using a 100-watt bulb or infrared lamp in a small room, raising the room temperature by 3°C-5°C, can promote earlier flowering. Similarly, orchids with flower buds placed in a location with weak light and low temperature can also delay flowering. For orchids that have already formed flower buds, appropriately extending sunlight exposure and raising the temperature, or using a 100-watt bulb or infrared lamp in a small room to raise the room temperature by 3°C-5°C, can accelerate the flowering period and make them bloom earlier. Conversely, reducing light under a low-temperature environment can delay the flowering period, because raising or lowering temperature can accelerate or slow the physiological activities within the plant. Using this biological characteristic, some have experimented with extending the light period to 14-16 hours, which can promote medium-sized plants and small seedlings to flower earlier; but for mature orchid plants, a light period of no more than 8 hours can promote flowering. Appropriately adjusting light intensity can make orchids open at the right time, especially for species that bloom in spring. Generally, flower buds have already formed by July-September of the previous year, and after they pass through the winter dormancy stage, appropriately increasing light and raising temperature can make them bloom early, in time for the Spring Festival holiday. Conversely, appropriately reducing light and lowering temperature can also delay flowering for timely orchid exhibitions. In short, regulating light intensity can make orchids open at the right time.
III. The role of light in orchid fertilization and sterilization.
1. The relationship between light and fertilization. Generally, how to shade and supplement light for various orchids in different seasons and at each growth stage so that they receive suitable light intensity is of concern to everyone. However, in the process of orchid cultivation, whether the relationship between fertilization and light is handled correctly is not necessarily taken seriously. In fact, this is equally very important for the vegetative growth of orchids. The strength or weakness of light leads to the strength or weakness of assimilation. If light is too weak, the assimilation of leaves is also insufficient. This leads to poor digestion of nitrogen fertilizer during the day, with less accumulation of carbohydrates and starch, so there is also less decline at night. Over time, leaves become very long while roots remain very short. If light is too strong, leaf assimilation also becomes excessive. Orchid respiration increases, consuming excessive nitrogen fertilizer, causing leaves to become short, small, and yellowed. At the same time, abundant carbohydrates and amino acids cause excessive growth of pseudobulbs and roots. There may be many reasons for these two poor growth conditions; light is not the only factor (for example, long-term dryness of the pot, excessive organic fertilizer, high-carbon growth, small day-night temperature difference, nitrogen deficiency, and other conditions can also produce these problems). However, failing to correctly handle the relationship between fertilization and light is also one of the important reasons among them, and must be paid attention to. The maintenance measures when encountering these situations are: when orchids show a state of "long leaves and short roots," light intensity must be gradually strengthened, organic nitrogen continuously supplied, and water supply reduced. After new roots grow out, they will slowly return to normal. When orchids show a phenomenon of "small leaves and strong roots," light should be reduced, and sufficient inorganic nitrogen should be continuously supplied. This can both lower carbohydrate content and promote protein synthesis, so the new growth can return to normal.
Practice has proven that only under conditions of sufficient light can orchids absorb nutrients, so when fertilizing orchids there must be moderate sunlight. The best fertilization time is in the morning on a good-weather day. When applying chemical fertilizer, the light intensity selected should be relatively higher; when applying organic fertilizer, it should be relatively lower.
2. Sunlight is a good weapon for sterilizing orchids and preventing disease. Light can not only raise temperature; ultraviolet light in the spectrum can kill and prevent the growth of fungi, pathogens, and viruses. Pathogenic bacteria generally find it very difficult to survive under blazing sun exposure. Therefore, exposure to the sun can sterilize and disinfect pots and growing media. However, for the sterilization and disinfection of orchids, the use of sunlight must be timely. For example, in winter, sun the orchids and let the whole plant bathe in sufficient sunlight; in summer, avoid the blazing sun at noon and in the west-facing afternoon sun. Light can also close the stomata of orchid leaves, blocking pathogenic fungi that easily invade through the stomata. We have found that orchid plants with good light exposure have strong disease resistance, while orchid plants with poor light have stomata often in an open state and are prone to infection by invading pathogens. Orchid plants with insufficient light are prone to pests and diseases. Using sunlight for sterilization and disinfection has long been advocated by orchid growers. The photosynthesis of orchids, like other biochemical processes, cannot exist in isolation, and at the same time is constrained and affected by external environmental conditions. These external factors are: light intensity, concentrations of carbon dioxide and oxygen, wind speed, temperature, water supply, inorganic nutrients, and pollutants in the atmosphere and soil, and so on. In addition, photosynthesis is also affected by the plant's own internal factors, such as chlorophyll content, degree of stomatal opening, and the physiological state and structure of the leaves themselves. By improving the above internal and external factors, the goal of raising the plant's photosynthetic efficiency can be achieved. This promotes healthy development, growth, and flowering of orchids. In summary, according to the growth habits of orchids, giving appropriate light can improve fertilization efficiency, enhance disease resistance, and benefit the healthy growth of orchids. For this reason, orchids that are weak, do not bloom, and are prone to pests and diseases must have enhanced light.
IV. The light intensity for orchids.
1. Orchids grow in mountain forests, and their ecological environment has cultivated a need for semi-shade, semi-sun light conditions. There is a folk flower saying: "Shade for camellias, sun for peonies, half shade and half sun for four-season orchids." This shows that orchids have a semi-shade, semi-sun light habit, and the growth of all types of orchids cannot be separated from light. This is also a "common characteristic" of orchid plants.
2. The light requirements of various orchids are not all the same. Due to differences in ecological environments, various orchids differ in their light requirements, strong or weak. Generally speaking, Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium ensifolium need more light for growth and can be shaded less. But in the vigorous growing summer and early autumn, strong direct light will still scorch some leaves, causing them to turn brown, or even making the leaves scorched yellow and withered. At this time, shading is essential, blocking 70%-80% of sunlight. Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense relatively need less light, and in summer should be shaded from 80%-85% of sunlight. For newly potted plants, diseased and weak seedlings, old plants, especially delicate plants, and plants that have not been hardened and have long been in semi-shade and semi-sun, shading must be provided during the growth period. For variegated-leaf orchids, striped orchids, crystal orchids, and transparent types, strong direct light cannot be tolerated. Shading must be provided when sunlight is strong. The amount of shading is also a rough estimate, because different varieties under the same species do not have absolutely identical light requirements. For example, within the same species, variegated orchids, colored flowers, and strong versus weak plants all differ in light requirements. This is the "individuality" of orchid plants, and growers need to observe carefully in order to correctly grasp the appropriate light level for each type of orchid.
3. Orchids can be roughly divided into three categories: sun-loving, semi-shade, and shade types. And also long-day and short-day types. Long-day orchids bloom as daytime gradually lengthens and nighttime gradually shortens; for example, sword orchids and summer Cymbidium kanran that bloom in late spring and summer. Short-day orchids are the opposite, blooming as daytime gradually shortens and nighttime gradually lengthens, such as Spring Orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Chun Jian, Cymbidium faberi, and Cymbidium sinense that bloom in late autumn and winter.
4. Reference values for optimal sunlight intensity for various orchids (unit: LUX)
Orchid species Sunlight range Optimal light intensity Variegated orchid light intensity
Four-season orchid 10000-14000 **** 10000
Cymbidium faberi 9000-13000 11000 9000
Spring Orchid 8000-**** 10000 8000
Chun Jian 8000-**** 10000 8000
Lianban orchid 8000-**** 10000 8000
Cymbidium kanran 8000-**** 10000 8000
Cymbidium sinense 4000-****5000 4000
"Fairburn and Pring pointed out: no one can propose the best light quality and light quantity for orchid growth and development, because these are complex factors involving light, temperature, different times, carbon dioxide concentration, day length, nutritional conditions, humidity, and the day-night temperature difference, and so on." ---- Excerpted from Wu Yingxiang, "Chinese Orchids." Therefore, the sunlight intensity above is only a reference value.
5. The light intensity for orchids changes with the seasons: In winter and spring, orchids should receive more sunlight and basically do not need shading. In summer and autumn, sunlight before 8-9 a.m. should be enjoyed more, and the west-facing afternoon sun must be avoided, otherwise orchids are prone to disease. Sunlight and temperature have a great influence on orchid reproduction. If there is no sunlight for a long time in winter and the temperature is also relatively low, it will affect the development of winter buds, leading to fewer and poorer-quality shoots in spring, affecting the rate of shoot increase for the whole year.
6. Orchids like light under cool environmental conditions. Generally, shading begins when spring passes and summer arrives, and shading ends only after late autumn. In summer, shade 40-50%; in late autumn, winter, and spring, it is suitable to fully receive light. Generally speaking: at 20-25°C, under direct sunlight, the chlorophyll in orchid leaves reacts quickly with light, and the plants grow vigorously. Above 30°C, chlorophyll in the leaves automatically decreases, leaf color becomes lighter, and a gray visible film gradually forms to reflect sunlight and prevent scorching. This condition can only be maintained for a relatively short time. If it lasts too long, it starts from the leaf tips first, and the whole plant gradually withers and dies, especially older plants, which first turn yellow and then scorch and dry. Therefore, the length of time orchids receive light changes with high and low temperatures, in an inverse relationship.
7. Orchids like morning sunlight. When the morning sun first rises, the sunlight angle is low, and the orchid's light-receiving area is large. Also, because morning sunlight is blocked by morning mist, the light is relatively soft, and direct exposure will not scorch orchid leaves. After nighttime nutrient accumulation, orchids have their strongest photosynthetic capacity in the morning.
V. Artificial regulation of light.
Light that is too strong or too weak is harmful to orchid growth, and orchid light varies greatly with season, weather, region, environment, and so on. If light is too strong because of this, artificial shading must be used, adjusting the shade density to reduce the light received by the orchids. If light is insufficient because of this and affects the healthy growth of orchids, artificial lighting must also be used to supplement light moderately for the orchids, giving them relatively abundant light of sufficient duration. In short, to give orchids moderate light, artificial regulation is necessary.
1. Basis for adjusting orchid light:
①Adjust the appropriate light for each type of orchid according to differences in their light requirements. Different orchid varieties also differ in photosynthesis and optimum temperature. For example, different orchid species and variegation types differ at different times and in different regions. In the blazing sunlight of midsummer and golden autumn, regarding shading requirements, the shade density for Cymbidium ensifolium is 60%-70%; Spring Orchid and Cymbidium faberi require 70%-80% shading in summer, while Cymbidium sinense needs about 80-85%. Ordinary linear-variegated orchids can have about 80%, while high-grade linear-variegated orchids, crystal orchids, and patterned orchids should have about 90%. Flower-art orchids and ordinary linear-variegated orchids can receive full light before 9 a.m. and after 4 p.m. on clear days; high-grade linear-variegated orchids, crystal orchids, and patterned orchids should be semi-shaded. In high-temperature "furnace" regions, the shading density should be correspondingly increased by more than 5%. In winter and spring, appropriately increasing the light amount by 20% is more favorable for orchid growth.
②Adjust the shade density according to light duration and light intensity in different seasons. From late spring to summer and autumn, shade 40%-50%; in winter and early spring, 10%-20% light. Insufficient light will make orchid leaves soft and dark in color, and make the leaves at the rhizome bend downward or outward. Especially during the leaf-emergence period, it makes the leaves grow rapidly. Conversely, too much light will make the leaves turn yellow, or the chlorophyll will be destroyed and cells will die, while excessive light makes the leaves shorter and thicker and open too early or bend outward. Therefore, except in early winter and midsummer, move the orchids outdoors in the morning until 9-10 o'clock, so they receive sufficient light. As the angle at which sunlight strikes the earth shifts, light duration and light intensity all change. In the short and weak light of winter and spring, except that high-grade linear-variegated orchids, crystal orchids, and patterned orchids need 60%-70% shading, all other orchids can receive full light, or be semi-shaded daily from 10-14 o'clock on clear days. In the long and strong light of summer and autumn, the shading time and density for orchids must also be adjusted accordingly.
③According to weather changes. With ever-changing weather such as clear, partly cloudy, cloudy, overcast, and rainy or snowy days, light also changes frequently and correspondingly. Therefore, the shading level must be appropriately adjusted as the weather changes and light strength changes. In particular, high-grade linear-variegated orchids, crystal orchids, and patterned orchids cannot tolerate strong light, and if the shading level is not adjusted in time, it often leads to sunburn damage. In addition, if a fixed shading density is always maintained regardless of light strength, the germination rate and flowering rate of orchid plants will naturally not be as good as with timely adjustment.
④According to changes in sunlight within a day, such as clear turning overcast, overcast turning clear, clear turning rainy, and clearing after rain, morning and evening sunlight can be allowed to shine, while the blazing noon sun must be shaded and adjusted, and on overcast days the shade density should be reduced. It is worth noting that after summer rainstorms, or when it first clears after long rains, orchid pots must absolutely not be exposed to the sun. Previous experience says: "If exposed to the sun right after rain, the water in the pot is hot, and it will scald the leaves and injure the roots."
⑤Adjust specifically according to differences in climate and light intensity in different regions. China has a vast territory, and climate cold and heat and light intensity differ greatly, but the standards and requirements for strong, weak, and moderate light for orchid growth are still unified, and specific adjustments can be made according to the local climate.
⑥Adjust according to temperature. Orchid photosynthesis is closely related to temperature. Generally speaking, Chinese orchids carry out normal photosynthesis at 5-36°C, with the optimum temperature being 18-28°C. When the temperature is as low as 0°C or as high as 40°C, these are the limits, and orchid photosynthesis is inhibited. Starting from the low-temperature limit, photosynthesis strengthens as temperature rises. Above the optimum point, photosynthesis declines; above 36°C photosynthesis is very weak, and when it reaches the 40°C limit, photosynthesis also stops. When the temperature is high, use shading to cool down; when the temperature is low, heating equipment can be used to raise the temperature, thereby achieving a relatively suitable temperature, promoting orchid photosynthesis, and ensuring the healthy and rapid growth of orchids.
⑦According to the phototropism of orchids. Orchids are phototropic, so the direction of the orchid pot should be rotated and adjusted at intervals, to prevent the plant and leaves from leaning to one side. In particular, the side with new growth should face the direction of sufficient light during the budding period, to facilitate germination and healthy growth of the buds. If, for the special needs of shaping or composition, in order to express a particular poetic and artistic conception, the position of the light source can also be used to strengthen the tendency of flowers and leaves, achieving the beauty of dynamic balance and satisfying appreciation needs.
⑧Adjust according to the growth condition of the orchid. Generally speaking, if the leaf color is light green and the orchid leaves are thin and weak and leggy, then the light is too strong. If they appear yellow-white or even scorched yellow and withered, it indicates that the light has exceeded the orchid plant's tolerance level. Conversely, if the color is dark green or deep green without luster, it indicates that the light is too weak. Adjust shading well according to the growth condition of the orchid. In addition, if stems and leaves are relatively dense and soft, with many leaf buds and few flower buds, then light is insufficient; conversely, if stems and leaves are sparse and firm, with few leaf buds and many flower buds, then light is too strong. Both are abnormal and need timely adjustment.
⑨Adjust light according to the orchid's growth stage. During the growth period, the supplemental light duration should be longer, and during the dormant period, a little less.
⑩According to professional testing. (Excerpt)
(1) The light intensity for well-growing orchids is 4000-5000 Lux (lux, unit of light intensity), and their germination rate, flowering rate, leaves, and leaf color are all excellent.
(2) From the practice of professional testing, it has been found that orchids have a saturation point for light requirements. After light reaches the saturation point, even better sunlight is harmful rather than beneficial to orchids.
(3) Plants most easily absorb red and blue light, and balanced red and blue light is especially important for photosynthesis. Experiments have proven that red light can promote orchid growth, while blue light is indispensable for thickening leaves, accelerating plant development, and regulating stomatal opening. Green light also cannot be ignored; it can promote oxygen production, thereby helping orchids better accumulate nutrients.
(4) A certain intensity of long-wave ultraviolet light is also essential; it helps form anthocyanins and inhibit the elongation of branches and leaves.
2. Methods of adjusting orchid light:
First, shading. In nature, orchids mostly grow in cool, shaded mountain forest environments with scattered sunlight, and semi-shade and shade types account for more than four-fifths of all orchid plants. Therefore, when light is too strong, shading must be used to reduce light.
(i) Plant shading. Imitating the natural environment, using plants for shade is one of the relatively ideal methods. The method is: on the orchid cultivation site, set up bamboo frames, wooden frames, or reinforced concrete frames, and let vines such as grapes, honeysuckle, morning glory, Chinese trumpet creeper, and cypress vine climb and spread over them, which both shades and is attractive. Deciduous vines shade in summer and let light through in winter, which is a kind of natural regulation. Trees can also be planted around the orchid garden, using a combination of evergreen trees, deciduous trees, and bamboos of different heights to regulate light intensity.
(ii) Shade net shading. The shade shed can be built with bamboo, wood, angle steel, and so on, covered with bamboo blinds, plastic film, shade nets, and so on. On top, install a double layer of shade net with 50%-70% shading rate. The upper layer is relatively fixed and is only rolled up in winter, while the lower layer can be put down or rolled up. In midsummer use double layers; in spring and autumn use a single layer. On clear days at noon in summer and autumn use double layers; on cloudy and rainy days use a single layer. In winter, decide according to conditions: on clear days lower the lower layer, on cloudy days roll up the lower layer. In addition, before orchid flower buds are about to open, there must be moderate scattered sunlight, otherwise the flower color will be dull and not show its beauty. Install the shade net in a movable style as much as possible, so that the shading density can be increased or decreased as needed. The shade net should as much as possible not be placed tightly against the plastic film or glass on the shed roof, and there should also be a gap of about 30 cm between net layers. The shade net should be installed outside the plastic film or glass, so that the shading effect is good. If installed inside the shed, its shading effect is greatly reduced. When growing orchids on a balcony, during midday when direct sunlight is strong, and when walls have reflected light and radiant heat, ventilation is also poorer than in a courtyard or orchid nursery, so in high-temperature seasons, outside the security grille, hang a 50% shade net for 3-4 hours around noon to prevent scorching the orchids. When sunlight is slanting and the temperature has also dropped, roll it up in time to facilitate ventilation. Orchid shading requires a certain regularity. Generally speaking: large-leaved types require more than small-leaved types, and low-altitude types require more than high-altitude types. In summer, more shading is needed; in winter, less shading can be used. At noon, more shading is needed; in the morning and evening, less shading can be used. When hot, more shading is needed; when cool, less shading can be used, and so on.
Second, "supplemental light." Regulating light in orchid-growing sites is not only about shading; when natural light is insufficient, artificial light also needs to be added to moderately supplement light for orchids. This is especially true for indoor orchid growing and after the beginning of winter, when the light duration is short and has a certain impact on orchid growth. Only by supplementing light to meet the orchids' light requirements can orchid plants develop soundly, have firm stems, and grow and bloom.
(i) Basis for supplemental light. How to supplement light moderately, and what kind of light to supplement? There must be a scientific basis. Sunlight is a collection of various continuous wavelength bands of light from red to violet, and artificial simulation of the plant growth environment should also start from this. In addition to considering the light quality and light intensity necessary for orchid growth, artificial supplemental light also needs to consider the physiological radiation characteristics of the light source. (Light waves matching the characteristic curve of plant chlorophyll synthesis are called physiological radiation light sources, namely photosynthetic light waves.) Under different light qualities, not only is photosynthetic intensity different, but the photosynthetic products are also not completely the same. For example: plants absorb red light most strongly, followed by blue light. When plants grow under blue-violet light, the amount of protein and fat in their photosynthetic products increases, and it is effective for thickening stems and leaves, accelerating plant development, and regulating stomatal opening. Under red light, more carbohydrates are formed, which can promote orchid growth. Violet light and ultraviolet light mainly form anthocyanins and inhibit the elongation of branches and leaves (ultraviolet light must not be too strong, as it will scorch orchid leaves). Green light also cannot be ignored; it can promote oxygen production, thereby helping orchids better accumulate nutrients. In addition, a certain intensity of long-wave ultraviolet light is also essential; it helps form anthocyanins and inhibit the elongation of branches and leaves. Supplemental light must be based on the above spectral effects and the growth condition of the orchids when choosing a suitable light source.
(ii) Light source selection. Because light quality has an obvious effect on the composition of photosynthetic products, people should choose suitable light sources according to the type of photosynthetic product needed. Ordinary incandescent lamps have less blue-violet light than the sun but more infrared light; fluorescent lamps have more blue-violet and green light but less red light. Generally speaking, orchid cultivation can use a mixed light of red, blue, and white tubes to supplement insufficient light. A complete combination of red and blue spectra can enable orchids to achieve optimal growth. Philips' tri-phosphor 6400K fluorescent lamp can basically meet the growth requirements of orchids, and the price is also cheap. Of course, if conditions permit, it is best to choose plant lights designed specifically for orchid supplemental lighting. They are a bit more expensive, but the effect is better. Using LED lighting, the plant growth rate and photosynthetic rate both increase by more than 20%. LED lights have especially strong durability compared with ordinary lights and also save electricity, reducing operating costs. When choosing a light source, one must consider not only light quality and light quantity, but also low power consumption, economy, durability, and ease of use.
(iii) Supplemental light duration. After installing artificial lighting equipment in the orchid room, the supplemental light duration should be determined according to the actual light conditions of the orchid-growing site, seasonal light changes, weather changes, and the orchid's growth stage. The supplemental light duration also differs according to different orchid growth stages and the orchid-growing environment. Indoor orchid growing with weak light but able to receive scattered sunlight should have no less than 5 hours of supplemental light; balconies should have no less than 4 hours of artificial supplemental light; basements and indoor spaces without sunlight should have no less than 10 hours of artificial supplemental light. During the orchid growth period, the supplemental light duration should be longer, and during the dormant period it should be a little less. On cloudy, rainy, and foggy days, artificial supplemental light should be no less than about 10 hours. Supplemental light duration involves many factors and needs to be tested in practice to obtain a relatively correct supplemental light duration.
(iv) Light distance. Light intensity is inversely proportional to the distance from the light source to the leaf surface, that is, the closer the distance, the stronger the light, so the height distance of the light tube can be adjusted to regulate light intensity, so as to adapt to the moderate light requirements of different orchid species. How to choose the light distance? The installation distance of supplemental light fixtures should be set according to the power of the lamp and the height of the orchids. The closer the lamp is to the orchids, the higher the light utilization, but care should be taken to avoid the lamp being too close to the orchids and the temperature being too high, which will cause harm to the orchids. Fluorescent lamps and special plant light sources (40W) should be at a distance of 20-40 cm; incandescent lamps (100W) should be installed at a certain height from the plants, because the large amount of infrared radiation from incandescent lamps converts into heat, so 70 cm or more is better; high-pressure sodium lamps (120W-400W) should maintain a vertical distance of 1 m-1.5 m from the plants, which is more suitable. For LED supplemental light sources, because LEDs produce very little heat, they can illuminate at close range, and 10 cm is better.
(v) Light direction. To ensure the supplemental light intensity for orchids, the lamps should as much as possible be arranged directly above the orchids. Benefits: first, because of plant phototropism, with more overhead light the orchid leaves have stronger uprightness, which meets the aesthetic requirements of orchid lovers; second, if the angle of the light matches the growth angle of the plant stems and leaves, the light intensity received per unit area is higher, which helps improve light energy utilization efficiency.
(vi) Precautions for supplemental light.
①It is best not to supplement light at night, because orchid growth requires a certain period of darkness to regulate the respiratory function within the orchid plant and to carry out the transformation and synthesis of dry matter within the plant.
②Pay attention to ventilation. Most supplemental light fixtures generate heat, especially in summer, which will raise the temperature of the orchid room or orchid shed and cause orchid diseases. Ventilation can reduce heat.
③Comprehensive configuration of light sources. To obtain better supplemental light effects, light fixtures of different light sources need to be comprehensively configured, such as using a combined configuration of fluorescent lamps and incandescent lamps, or pairing low-pressure sodium lamps with incandescent lamps. This meets the orchid's need for various spectra during growth.
④Pay attention to the installation safety of supplemental light fixtures to prevent accidents.
The above briefly described the role of artificial supplemental light for orchids and some specific issues. In short, by moderately supplementing light for orchids and ensuring that orchids have relatively sufficient light, not only can the cold resistance of orchids during overwintering be improved, but it can also ensure the robust growth and abundant flowering of orchids the following year.
Third, "hardening the plants." Orchids have relatively strong adaptability to light, and this is also related to the number of generations exposed to light intensity. They will gradually change and adapt. For orchids that have always been grown in shade, if the light conditions for the plants are artificially changed, after a period of time, the structure and function of their chloroplasts will undergo a certain degree of change to adapt to the new light conditions. For example, under weaker light conditions, plant leaf structure and function will develop in a shade-tolerant direction, enabling them to maintain relatively high photosynthetic efficiency under weaker light; conversely, under stronger light conditions, plants can also adapt to a certain extent, effectively using sufficient sunlight for photosynthesis. The folk so-called "hardening the plants" roughly means this - letting orchids adapt to different environments - including light, temperature, and so on. Through "hardening the plants," they can be made stronger generation by generation.
Fourth, display. In the display of potted orchids, according to the habits of each type of orchid, those with high light requirements should be placed in the locations most often reached by light. Those with low light requirements should be placed in locations with less light. In addition, orchids are phototropic, so it is best to adjust the pot direction once or twice a month to prevent the plant and leaves from leaning to one side. In particular, the side with new growth should face the direction of sufficient light during the budding period, to facilitate germination and healthy growth of the buds.
In summary, light plays a vital role in the growth, development, flowering, and reproduction of orchid plants. Although orchids prefer shade, if all things in heaven and earth had no sunlight, they could not carry out photosynthesis to make nutrients. Nor could they survive. Therefore, light is the driving force of orchid life. Photosynthesis is also a quite complex issue. Orchid photosynthesis, like other biochemical processes, cannot exist in isolation, and at the same time is constrained and affected by external environmental conditions. These external factors are: light intensity, concentrations of carbon dioxide and oxygen, wind speed, temperature, water supply, inorganic nutrients, and pollutants in the atmosphere and soil, and so on. At the same time, light is also affected by the plant's own internal factors: for example, different orchid plants have certain differences in light duration, intensity, and requirements. Another example is the influence of chlorophyll content, degree of stomatal opening, and the physiological state and structure of the leaves themselves. Only by improving the above internal and external factors can the goal of raising the plant's photosynthetic efficiency be achieved. This promotes healthy development, growth, and flowering of orchids.
Loquat Eriobotrya japonica Loquat illustrated guide: how to grow loquat / how to propagate loquat
Loquat profileLoquat Eriobotrya japonica
Loquat cultivation methods and precautions Loquat introduction
Loquat (scientific name: Eriobotrya japonica; English name: Loquat), ancient Chinese name Luju, also known as Jinwan and Luzhi, is a genus in the Maloideae subfamily of the Rosaceae family, and is an evergreen small tree. Together with cherry and plum, it is called one of the "three friends among fruits." The crown is round, the trunk is quite short, and the tree is generally 3-4 m tall. The leaves are thick, dark green, with down on the underside and serrated edges. Loquat originated in southeastern China, and is named because the fruit resembles the pipa instrument.
Morphological characteristics of loquat
Loquat originated in southeastern China. It is a genus in the Maloideae subfamily of the Rosaceae family, and an evergreen small tree in the genus Eriobotrya of Rosaceae. The crown is round, the trunk is quite short, and the tree is generally 3 to 4 m tall. Young branches are densely covered with rusty-colored down. The leaves are thick, dark green, leathery, oblanceolate, obovate to oblong, with acute or acuminate tips, cuneate bases or gradually narrowed into petioles, and the underside and petioles are densely covered with gray-brown down. The upper edges have sparse serrations, the surface is wrinkled and green. The panicle is terminal, and the pedicels and calyx tubes are densely covered with rusty-colored down. The flowers are white and fragrant. The flowering period is from November to February of the following year. The fruit is spherical or oblong, yellow or orange-yellow. The fruit ripening period is May to June. The fruit is oval, elliptical, round, and various other shapes. Around May-July, in the season when the strongly fragrant orange-yellow fruit ripens, among the layered verdant mountains of Dongting Mountain, yellow loquats hang all over the branches. Some compare them to "golden pills," and some call them "little golden hammers." The Ming dynasty poet Shen Zhou wrote: "Who cast three hundred golden pills, the pellet embryo slightly wet with dew. From now on, to strike the magpie, why need jade, there is also tin syrup refreshing the teeth with cold." The loquat tree is quite beautiful in form and grows rapidly, with lush green leaves, and is planted as a horticultural ornamental plant in many places. It is produced in Shaanxi, Gansu, Jiangsu, Anhui, Fujian, and other provinces and regions in China. Loquat is fresh, sweet, and slightly sour. It is produced in areas south of China's Huai River, and the most famous is Anhui's "Santang." In Huizhou folk culture there is a saying, "The Queen Mother of Heaven has flat peaches; on earth there are Santang loquats," and together with cherry and plum it is called the "three friends." It is harvested from April to May; remove the outer skin and take the flesh for fresh use.
Unlike most fruit trees, loquat blooms in autumn or early winter, and the fruit ripens from spring to early summer, earlier than all other fruits, so it is called "the only one among fruit trees endowed with the qi of all four seasons." The loquat flower is white or pale yellow, has five petals, is about 2 cm in diameter, and is borne in clusters of five to ten flowers, and can serve as a nectar source crop.
The loquat tree is more than one zhang tall, with luxuriant branches and leaves, yellow hairs on the underside of the leaves, and does not wither in all four seasons. The flowering period is generally concentrated from October to December, and by March and April it bears ball-like fruit. When ripe, the color is like yellow apricot, with small hairs, very thin skin and flesh, and a large pit like a chestnut. But in Panzhihua City, Sichuan Province, fruit ripens from December to May of the following year. Loquat, anciently named Tianxia Shan, belongs to the genus Eriobotrya in Rosaceae, and is an evergreen small tree, 3-5 m tall, with large and long leaves, thick and downy, long elliptical, shaped like a pipa. It is also known by other names such as Luju, Luzhi, Jinwan, Yanguo, and Jiaozi. Evergreen small tree, up to 10 m tall; young branches densely covered with rusty-colored or gray-brown down. Leaves leathery, lanceolate, long obovate, or long elliptical, 10-30 cm long and 3-10 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base cuneate or gradually narrowed into a petiole, edges with sparse serrations, surface wrinkled, underside and petiole densely covered with rusty-colored down. Panicle with many and densely arranged flowers; peduncle, pedicel, and calyx tube densely covered with rusty-colored down; flowers white, fragrant, 1.2-2 cm in diameter, inner side of petals downy, base with a claw. Pome nearly spherical or oblong, yellow or orange-yellow, externally with rusty-colored soft hairs that later fall off. Fruit size and shape vary by variety. Flowering period October-December, fruiting period May-June of the following year. It is named for resembling a pipa.
Loquat fruit: round or elliptical, 2-5 cm in diameter, exocarp yellow or orange-yellow, with soft hairs, top with black persistent calyx teeth; after removing the calyx teeth, a small empty chamber can be seen. Base with a short fruit stalk, with rough hairs. Exocarp thin, mesocarp fleshy, 3-7 mm thick, endocarp papery-membranous, brown, containing 1 to many seeds. Odor slight and fresh, taste sweet and sour. There are extremely many loquat varieties, which can be divided into two types: red-fleshed loquat and white-fleshed loquat. The former has a long lifespan, strong tree vigor, and high yield, but its quality is not as good as the latter. Famous varieties include Yuanzhong and Jidanhong, and so on; white-fleshed loquat is not as good as red-fleshed loquat in growth and yield, but has excellent quality. Famous varieties include Yuanzhong, Yuzhong, and Jidanbai, and so on. The seeds can be used for winemaking and extracting alcohol; the wood is hard and tough, used for making wooden combs, wooden sticks, and other materials; the leaves and fruit are used as medicine, with effects such as clearing heat, moistening the lungs, and relieving cough and resolving phlegm; the leaves are also steamed to obtain a distillate called "loquat leaf dew," which has effects such as clearing heat, relieving summer heat, and harmonizing the stomach; it is also an excellent nectar source plant, and among honeys, "loquat honey" is of high quality. The leaves contain saponins, amygdalin, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, tannins, vitamin B1, vitamin C, and so on. It has high medicinal value. The loquat tree has a neat and beautiful form, large leaves and dense shade, and is evergreen in all four seasons. In spring it sprouts new leaves covered with white down, in autumn it develops flower buds, in winter it blooms, and in spring it fruits and ripens in summer. Among the green leaves, clusters of golden pills hang, and the ancients called it an excellent fruit.
Ripe loquat fruits also hang on the tree in clusters. Each fruit is 3-5 cm long, round, elliptical, or long "pipa-shaped." The surface of the loquat is covered with down; when unripe it is blue-green, relatively firm, and has a relatively strong fragrant aroma. After ripening, the outer skin is generally pale yellow, and some are darker, approaching orange-red. The flesh is soft and juicy, and can mainly be divided into two types, white and orange; called "white sand" (white loquat) and "red sand." Among them, white sand is sweet and the fruit type is smaller; red sand is sour or quite sour, and relatively larger. Each loquat fruit contains five ovaries, among which one to five develop into brown seeds. Artificially developed seedless varieties have no seeds.
Ecological habits of loquat
Loquat can bear fruit normally in places with an annual average temperature above 15°C, and can grow in areas with an average temperature above 12°C. It also has very strong cold resistance. Adult trees can resist low temperatures of -18°C, and flowers can resist low temperatures of -4°C. Its flowering period is also long, and it is less likely to suffer frost damage entirely. In addition, loquat does not have high requirements for soil and sunlight, so it is planted in all places south of China's Huai River. Besides China, loquat is also planted in Japan, the United States (Hawaii and California), India, Brazil, Israel, Turkey, Spain, and other places. Among them, the history of loquat cultivation in Japan dates to the late Edo period, when it was introduced from southern China. The history of loquat cultivation in Japan has exceeded one thousand years.
Distribution range of loquat
The loquat tree is a subtropical tree species, originally produced in China's Fujian, Sichuan, Shaanxi, Hunan, Hubei, Zhejiang, and other provinces, and now distributed in central and southern China as well as Shaanxi, Gansu, Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Sichuan, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other places. Provinces south of the Yangtze River mostly cultivate it as a fruit tree. Dongting Mountain in Wuzhong District (Wuxian), Suzhou, Jiangsu (Dongshan Zhaozhong white-fleshed loquat), Tangqi in Yuhang District, Hangzhou, Zhejiang (Ruantiao white sand), Ninghai, Sanmen white loquat, Baokeng in Putian, Fujian (Dazhong/Jiefangzhong), Shexian in Anhui Province is one of China's five major loquat producing areas, and Shufeng Township, Changtai Town, and Yunxiao in Putian City, Fujian, are also praised as the hometown of Chinese loquat. A large loquat festival gala is held every March.
Landscape uses of loquat
Loquat has strong adaptability. Besides being planted in parks, it is also often planted in courtyards as a horticultural ornamental plant. Loquats by the shore of Taihu Lake and on the islands in the lake are especially good. Because of winter water vapor and mist, the winter flowers are protected from cold damage, so every year they bear abundant fruit. Its fruit is edible and sweet; the fruit and leaves can be used medicinally; the wood is reddish-brown, hard and tough, and can be used for walking sticks, wooden mallets, wooden sticks, and so on. Loquat can be planted artificially and can also be grown in greenhouses. Loquat's living habits: loquat likes light, is slightly shade-tolerant, likes a warm climate and fertile, moist, well-drained soil, is slightly cold-tolerant, not tolerant of severe cold, and grows slowly. In areas with an average temperature above 12-15°C, where winter is not below -5°C, and the flowering and young fruit stages are not below 0°C, it can all grow well. Its lifespan is relatively long. Grafted seedlings begin to bear fruit in 4-6 years, enter full fruiting age at about 15 years, and yield decreases after 40 years. Under general conditions, it can also be cultivated in Henan Province, but if the fruiting period is below minus 2°C, the young fruit will freeze. Suitable cultivation areas are the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and areas to the south. It is best in fertile soil and is commonly used for garden ornament, in residential communities, gardens, schools, institutions, factories, hillsides, courtyards, roadsides, and in front of buildings.
Uses and purposes of loquat. Loquat is soft and juicy, sweet in flavor, and fine in texture. Eating ripe loquat tastes sweet. The peak production season is March and April each year. Loquat is rich in various nutritional elements needed by the human body and is a nutritious health fruit. Loquat is rich in cellulose, pectin, carotene, malic acid, citric acid, potassium, phosphorus, iron, calcium, fructose, glucose, and vitamins A, B, and C. Among them, carotene content ranks third among all fruits. It has the functions of protecting eyesight, maintaining healthy and moist skin, and promoting children's physical development. The vitamin B17 it contains is also an anti-cancer nutrient! Therefore, loquat is also called the "crown of fruits." It can promote appetite and help digestion; it can also prevent cancer and prevent aging. Traditional Chinese medicine believes that loquat is sweet and sour in taste, neutral in nature, and has effects such as moistening the lungs and relieving cough, quenching thirst and harmonizing the stomach, and promoting urination and clearing heat, and is used for lung atrophy with cough and chest tightness with much phlegm. Besides being eaten fresh, loquat flesh is also made into syrup canned goods, or loquat is used to brew wine. Besides the fruit, loquat leaves and loquat seeds are also commonly used Chinese medicinal materials. Loquat leaves have the functions of clearing lung and stomach heat and directing qi downward to resolve phlegm. Large pieces of loquat leaves are sun-dried and used as medicine, for lung-heat dry cough, stomach pain, nosebleeds, and stomach-heat vomiting, and are made with other medicinal materials into "Chuanbei Loquat Paste"; loquat seeds are used to treat hernia, eliminate edema, and benefit the joints. But like other related plants, loquat seeds and new leaves are slightly toxic, and eating them raw releases trace amounts of cyanide, but because they taste bitter, people generally will not eat an amount sufficient to cause harm. Jia Ming of the Yuan dynasty, in "Dietary Essentials," mentioned that "wheat should not be eaten with millet or loquat."
Nutritional analysis1. The organic acids contained in loquat can stimulate the secretion of digestive glands, and have a considerable effect on increasing appetite, helping digestion and absorption, quenching thirst, and relieving summer heat. 2. Loquat contains amygdalin, which can moisten the lungs, relieve cough, and remove phlegm, and treat various coughs.
3. Loquat fruit and leaves have an inhibitory effect on influenza viruses, and eating them regularly can help prevent common colds throughout the four seasons. Loquat is rich in various nutrients needed by the human body and is a nutritious health fruit. Loquat is rich in cellulose, pectin, carotene, malic acid, citric acid, potassium, phosphorus, iron, calcium, and vitamins A, B, and C. The abundant vitamin B and carotene help protect eyesight, keep skin healthy and moisturized, and promote children's physical development. The vitamin B17 it contains is also an anti-cancer nutrient! Therefore, loquat is also called the "crown of fruits"; it can stimulate appetite and aid digestion, and can also help prevent cancer and aging. Every part of the loquat is useful: the tree stem can be used to make traditional Chinese medicine; the leaves can clear heat and treat stomach ailments; the flesh is highly nutritious, and eating it regularly is very helpful for children's development, and it can also relieve cough, moisten the lungs, clear heat, and promote urination.
4. Loquat leaves can be dried to make tea, which has the effects of clearing heat and directing qi downward, and harmonizing the stomach and descending rebellious qi. It is an excellent remedy for stopping vomiting and can treat various types of vomiting and hiccups.
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that loquat is sweet and sour in taste and neutral in nature, with effects of moistening the lungs and relieving cough, quenching thirst and harmonizing the stomach, and promoting urination and clearing heat. It is used for lung atrophy with cough and chest tightness with profuse phlegm.
In addition to the fruit, loquat leaves and loquat seeds are also commonly used traditional Chinese medicinal materials. Loquat leaves have the functions of clearing lung and stomach heat, and descending qi and resolving phlegm. They are used for dry cough due to lung heat, stomach pain, nosebleeds, and vomiting due to stomach heat. Loquat seeds are used to treat hernia, eliminate edema, and benefit the joints. Loquat is a rare fruit unique to southern China. For more information, search for loquat tree bases. It nurtures buds in autumn, blooms in winter, sets fruit in spring, and ripens in early summer, receiving the rain and dew of the four seasons, and is "the one among fruits that uniquely embodies the qi of the four seasons." Its flesh is soft and juicy, moderately sweet and sour, and delicious, and it is known as the "emperor of fruits." Loquat is not only delicious and nutritious but also has high health value. The Compendium of Materia Medica records that "loquat can moisten the five viscera and nourish the heart and lungs." Traditional Chinese medicine has long held that loquat fruit has the effects of eliminating phlegm and relieving cough, promoting fluids and moistening the lungs, and clearing heat and strengthening the stomach. Modern medicine has further proven that loquat fruit contains abundant vitamins, amygdalin, and white arbutin, among other anti-cancer and cancer-fighting substances. Entering early summer, it is again the season when loquat ripens. Loquat is not only good in taste but also quite rich in nutrition. According to analysis, its main components include sugars, protein, fat, cellulose, pectin, carotene, tannins, malic acid, citric acid, potassium, phosphorus, iron, calcium, and vitamins A, B, C, etc. Among these, especially the carotene content is abundant, ranking third among fruits. Moreover, the types of sugars it contains are also quite rich, mainly composed of glucose, fructose, and sucrose. In addition, the abundant vitamin B in loquat plays a very important role in protecting eyesight, keeping skin healthy and moisturized, and promoting children's physical development. Loquat is cool in nature and sweet and sour in taste, with effects of moistening the lungs and relieving cough, quenching thirst, and harmonizing and strengthening the stomach. It is often used for symptoms such as dry throat and excessive thirst, cough with blood-streaked sputum, and hiccups. Not only can the flesh of loquat be used as medicine, but its seeds, leaves, and roots also have medicinal value. Wash fresh loquat and eat it raw to treat discomfort such as dry mouth and excessive thirst. In addition, wash 50g of fresh loquat, peel it, add 5g of rock sugar, simmer for half an hour, and take it; it is especially effective for red, swollen, and painful throat caused by tonsillitis.
According to analysis by the Department of Nutrition of the Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences, every 100g of the edible portion of loquat fruit contains 0.4g protein, 0.1g fat, 7g carbohydrates, 0.8g crude fiber, 0.5g ash, 22mg calcium, 32mg phosphorus, 0.3mg iron, 3mg vitamin C, and 1.33mg carotenoids. Among these, calcium, phosphorus, and carotene are significantly higher than in other common fruits, and it also contains the 8 essential amino acids required by the human body.Note:People with lung atrophy and cough, chest tightness with profuse phlegm, blood-streaked sputum due to overexertion, and scurvy are especially suitable to eat it. People with diarrhea due to spleen deficiency and diabetes patients should avoid eating it. Its seed contains amygdalin, which is toxic, so be sure not to eat it by mistake, to avoid harming health and life.ExtractUrsolic acid. Ursolic acid, also called wusolic acid, loquat leaf extract ursolic acid content: 25%, 90%, 98% HPLC. Ursolic acid CAS: 77-52-1. Ursolic acid appearance: white fine powder 75179466. Ursolic acid melting point and solubility: mp 283-287°C. Insoluble in water, soluble in ethanol, no foreign matter after dissolution. Ursolic acid alias: wusolic acid, ursolic acid, belonging to triterpenoid compounds. Ursolic acid molecular formula and molecular weight: C30H48O3; 456.68. Ursolic acid is a triterpenoid compound present in natural plants, with multiple biological effects such as sedation, anti-inflammation, antibacterial, anti-diabetic, anti-ulcer, and blood sugar lowering. It has been found to have anti-carcinogenic, anti-tumor-promoting, F9 teratoma cell differentiation-inducing, and anti-angiogenic effects, and is very likely to become a new low-toxicity, high-efficiency anti-cancer drug. In addition, ursolic acid has obvious antioxidant function, so it is widely used as a raw material in medicine and cosmetics. Pharmacological effects of ursolic acid: ursolic acid, also known as wusolic acid, ursolic acid, belongs to triterpenoid compounds.Loquat juice beverageProcess flow: raw materials → washing → crushing and juicing → screening → heating → blending → canning → exhausting → sealing → sterilization → cooling → packaging → finished product. Key points of process operation. Raw material selection: use mature fresh loquat, or part of the broken fruit flesh selected from the production of loquat in syrup, but it must be fresh and hygienic. Washing: first rinse the surface dust and other impurities from the fruit with running water, then soak in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 1 minute to achieve disinfection and sterilization. Then rinse clean with running water, and remove seeds, stems, moldy and rotten parts, and other parts unsuitable for processing. Crushing and juicing: use a pulping machine with a screen plate aperture of 1.5-2.5mm to extract juice, then press the loquat pulp residue through a screw juicer to extract residual juice, add 0.02%-0.04% ascorbic acid to prevent juice oxidation, and quickly carry out heat treatment to inhibit oxidase activity. Heating: after adding 0.02%-0.04% ascorbic acid to the extracted juice, quickly heat it in steam so that the center temperature of the raw juice reaches 85-90°C, maintain for 15 seconds, then quickly filter. Screening: filter the above juice while hot through silk cloth, or use a high-speed centrifugal separator to separate coarse particles and coarse fibers, then filter through silk cloth to remove coarse fibers and broken fruit flesh. Blending: according to the specification requirements and sensory needs of fruit juice beverages, add sugar, water, and citric acid to the filtered raw juice to make a natural beverage. Canning, exhausting, sealing: bottle the adjusted beverage, heat and exhaust, control the center temperature of the fruit juice beverage at 90°C, maintain for 1-2 minutes, take it out, let it cool slightly, and quickly seal. Sterilization, cooling: heat the bottled beverage in steam for 15 minutes for sterilization, then quickly cool to room temperature to obtain the finished product. In order to prevent browning of the fruit juice beverage, throughout the entire production process, minimize contact between the juice and air and avoid direct contact between the juice and metal materials as much as possible. Sensory indicators: color is uniform light yellow, no sediment, pure taste, sweet and sour palatable, with obvious fruit aroma.Loquat and white fungus soupIngredients: 100g soaked white fungus, 50g loquat. Seasonings: appropriate amounts of scallion sections, ginger slices, salt, and rock sugar. Method: Wash the white fungus, wash the loquat, remove the seeds, and slice. Pour an appropriate amount of cold water into a clay pot, add the white fungus, scallion sections, [8] ginger slices, and cook over high heat for 30 minutes. Remove the white fungus, drain, and tear into small pieces. Wash the original pot, pour in an appropriate amount of boiling water, add the loquat, white fungus, salt, and rock sugar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the cooked ingredients into a bowl and steam in a steamer until the white fungus is soft and tender. If fresh loquat is unavailable, canned loquat can be used instead.
Selection and storageWhen selecting loquat, choose those that are large and uniform, obovate in shape, with orange-yellow peel, intact fuzz, juicy, thin-skinned and thick-fleshed, and without green fruit. Loquat should not be put in the refrigerator; storing it in a dry, ventilated place is sufficient. If soaked in cold water, sugar water, or salt water, it can prevent discoloration. Never eat unripe loquat.
Classification of loquat varieties
Production areas and varieties. Loquat production areas.Tangqi in Zhejiang, Sanmen, Huangyan, Ninghai, She County in Anhui Province, Putian in Fujian Province and Yunxiao County in Zhangzhou City, and Dongxishan in Wu County, Jiangsu (Wuzhong District, Suzhou), are together known as the six major loquat production areas in the country.Hangzhou Tangqi loquatTangqi loquat is mainly produced in Tangqi Town, Yuhang District, Hangzhou City. Tangqi loquat has a beautiful fruit shape, golden color, large fruit and thick flesh, abundant juice and sweet taste, moderate sweetness and sourness, good flavor, and rich nutrition. In May, Jiangnan is lush and green, silkworms are old and loquats are yellow. Tangqi loquat blooms in early winter, and the flowers are very fragrant. Each flower cluster consists of 60-90 small flowers, and the fruit ripens in May. Whenever in the deep winter and twelfth lunar month, when all flowers have withered, loquat flowers bloom braving the cold, white as jade, and are deeply loved by literati and painters of past dynasties, who called them "loquat morning emerald." According to historical records, Tangqi began planting as early as the Sui Dynasty, with a history of nearly 1,400 years. Because of its excellent variety, superior quality, and unique flavor, it was listed as a tribute from the Tang Dynasty onward. In the Tang Dynasty it was already quite prosperous, and there were certain cultivation, storage, and transportation techniques, and loquat was regarded as a "precious fruit." According to historical records, Tangqi loquat was first planted in the Sui Dynasty, flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and reached its peak in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, Tangqi ranked first among the ten famous towns in Jiangnan and was known as "a land of beauties in Jiangnan."She County Santan loquatSantan loquat in She County, Anhui, has long been famous and was historically a tribute product.Lanxi Hongni Mountain loquatOn May 25, 2011, at the first Zhejiang Agricultural Guinness Loquat Competition held in Nubu Street, Lanxi City, Lanxi "Hongni Mountain" loquat became the "sweetest loquat in the province." Hongni Mountain loquat won: "First Prize in the Zhejiang Agricultural Guinness Loquat Competition." The competition used soluble solids content as the main quantitative indicator, tested with a digital measuring instrument conforming to national standards, and notarized on site by notary personnel. The competition attracted 11 loquat professional cooperatives and leading agricultural enterprises from Jinhua, Wenzhou, Taizhou, Hangzhou, and other places to compete. According to on-site testing by experts from the Provincial Department of Agriculture, the loquat of the Hongni Mountain Loquat Professional Cooperative in Nubu Street took first place with a sugar content of 18.1, the loquat of the Muwu Loquat Professional Cooperative took second place with a sugar content of 16.4, and the loquat of the Tangjia Loquat Professional Cooperative in Huangyan, Taizhou, took third place with a sugar content of 15.0.Other varieties. Loquat belongs to the genus Eriobotrya in the family Rosaceae. This genus has more than 20 species in total, 14 of which are native to China, mostly originating in the middle and upper reaches of the Yangtze River and the mountainous areas of the southwest. The main ones are:
1. Common loquat
Common loquat is an evergreen small tree, 6-10m tall, with grayish-brown, rough trunk. New shoots are densely covered with fuzz. Leaves are obovate or long elliptic, nearly sessile, leathery, with rusty tomentum on the underside, and serrated notches on the leaf margin. Paniculate inflorescence, small white flowers, 5 sepals and 5 petals each, numerous stamens, style 5-cleft, ovary inferior, 5 locules, 2 ovules each. Fruit large, orange-red or orange-yellow. Seeds 2-6. All cultivated varieties belong to this species. Characteristic: blooms in winter and fruits in summer. Native species are distributed in Shaanxi, Hubei, Sichuan, and other places.2. Taiwan loquatTaiwan loquat, also called red-leaf loquat, is native to Hengchun, Taiwan, China. Leaves thin, fruit small, round, ripening in October, sweet and edible, with the effect of treating febrile diseases, weak cold resistance. Can be used as rootstock. Its characteristic is blooming in summer and fruiting in autumn. Distributed in Taiwan, China and Guangdong.3. South Asian loquatSouth Asian loquat, also called Yunnan loquat or smooth-leaved loquat, has native species in Yunnan and northern India. Evergreen large tree
. Leaves smooth and hairless on both sides, glossy, petiole 2-3cm long. Flowers have hawthorn fragrance. Fruit small, elliptic. Seeds 1-2. Characteristic: blooms in winter and fruits in summer.4. Large-flowered loquatLarge-flowered loquat has native species in western Sichuan. Leaf margin revolute, initially with fuzz, later shedding, petiole 2.5-4.0cm long. Flowers large, diameter 2.0-2.5cm, pistils 3. Fruit relatively large, nearly round, orange-red, smooth. Seeds 1-2. Distributed in Sichuan, Guizhou, Hubei, Hunan, Jiangxi, and Fujian. Characteristic: blooms in spring and fruits in autumn.5. Oak-leaved loquatOak-leaved loquat is produced in Mengzi, Yunnan, and western Sichuan. Small tree. Leaf underside densely covered with appressed gray fuzz. Ovary semi-superior. Fruit small, ovate, thin-fleshed but edible. Single seed (1 seed). Characteristic: blooms in autumn and fruits in summer.6. Nujiang loquatNujiang loquat is produced along the banks of the Nujiang River in Yunnan. Small tree. Leaf surface glossy, leaf underside with yellow long soft hairs. Fruit spherical. Single seed (1 seed). Ripens from June to August. Characteristic: blooms in spring and fruits in autumn. As far as varieties are concerned, red-fleshed types have thick peel that is easy to peel, sweet taste and coarse texture, and are suitable for canning. White-fleshed types have thin peel and thick flesh, fine texture and sweet taste, and are suitable for fresh eating. Famous loquat varieties include: "Ruantiao Baisha" from Yuhang, Zhejiang, with white flesh and sweet taste; "Jiefangzhong" from Putian, Fujian, with thick and tender flesh, abundant juice and delicious taste; "Zhaozhong Baisha" from Wu County, Jiangsu, with abundant juice, fine texture, and fresh sweet flavor.
Original varieties
Jiefangzhong: A famous variety, selected in 1949. The fruit is extra large, averaging 61.04g, but due to poor early fruiting, it bears fruit four years after planting, is prone to fruit cracking, and is susceptible to sunscald. In particular, the flavor is rather bland and sour, and the quality is clearly inferior to Dawuxing. It was eliminated in the mid-1980s in Longquanyi District, Chengdu. In its place of origin, Fujian, development has basically stopped. It may be developed in moderation in new loquat areas, but the production scale should not be blindly expanded. Luoyangqing: A famous domestic variety. Average fruit weight 32.g, good high-yield performance, but the fruit has high acidity, the fruit shape is rather small, the appearance is poor, and the commercial performance is poor. It can be developed in moderation as a processing variety, but areas mainly focused on fresh eating should not blindly launch it. Dahongpao: The fruit shape is rather small, and it is no longer being developed. Dongting loquat: Average fruit weight 30.2g, mild taste, more sour than sweet, poor quality, and the planting scale should not be further expanded. Zaozhong No. 6: An early-maturing variety, average fruit weight 25-30g, but the fruit is small and the flavor is bland, and the selling price is ordinary. Development has stopped in its place of origin, Fujian, and it may be developed in small amounts in new areas. Baisha loquat (Baiyu loquat): Relatively good quality, but the fruit is rather small, average fruit weight 25-30g, and the flavor becomes bland after overripening. It may be developed in moderation. Changhong No. 3: Fruit weight 34.05g, the fruit flavor is rather bland, the tree is prone to premature aging, and it is not suitable for large-scale development. 8 "Guangronghua." "Dahongpao" has yellow peel but the flesh shows red, while "Guangronghua" is named because an obvious five-pointed star grows at the calyx. First-grade loquat has only about 20 fruits per kilogram. In Miantan Village, the Santan loquat production area in She County, a "loquat king" with only 10 fruits per kilogram has even been cultivated.Wuxing brand. Zaowuxing.King of early-maturing loquat - Zaowuxing. Selected by scientific and technical personnel in Longquanyi District, Chengdu, from seedling trees, with an average fruit weight of 66g. Extremely early-maturing. In the Chengdu area, it generally ripens around April 10, about 20 days earlier than Dawuxing, and its maturity period is comparable to Zaozhong No. 6, but its average fruit weight is obviously one to two grades larger than Zaozhong No. 6, and its other traits are basically the same as Dawuxing. The number of nursery stock of this variety is extremely small and it is very precious.WanwuxingKing of late-maturing loquat - Wanwuxing (Red Lantern). This variety was selected in 1987 by scientific and technical personnel in Longquanyi District, Chengdu, from seedling trees in Meiman Village of the district, originally numbered 87-1-8. In 2001 it passed expert appraisal and was named Red Lantern, but locally in Longquanyi District, most fruit farmers call this variety Wanwuxing or Chiwuxing. This variety has moderate tree vigor and an upright tree posture. Leaves are medium-large, dark green, and the surface of new leaves is densely covered with white fuzz (one of the important characteristics of this variety). Flower formation is extremely easy and extremely high-yielding. The flower formation rate of summer shoots produced in the same year after fruit harvest is above 80%, with 5-10 fruits per cluster. Generally, it tries to flower and bear fruit in the second year after planting, and officially enters production in the third year. The average yield per tree of 5-year-old trees is 25kg, and the yield per tree of 11-year-old trees is 75kg. Calculated at an average planting density of 111 trees per mu, the average yield per mu of a 5-year-old orchard is 2,750kg. It is 161% higher than the yield of an orchard of the same age of Zaozhong No. 6, and 136.2% higher than the yield of an orchard of the same age of Jiefangzhong. The fruit is ovate or nearly round, extremely large, with an average fruit weight of 65.3g. The peel is orange-red, with no or very few rust spots on the fruit surface, medium-thick fruit powder, and bright and beautiful appearance. The flesh is orange-red, extremely thick, with an average flesh thickness of 1.21cm, fine and tender texture, especially abundant juice, and a rich sweet flavor. According to determination by the Central Laboratory of the Sichuan Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the soluble solids content is 13.5%, and the edible rate is 76%. This variety has extremely strong drought resistance. In most years in Longquanyi District, Chengdu, spring drought is severe, yet Wanwuxing orchards planted on the thin, stony mountain soil of Longquan Mountain can obtain a relatively good harvest every year. No fruit cracking or pre-harvest fruit drop has been found in this variety, and under the condition of no bagging, it also does not produce sunscald fruit, whereas Jiefangzhong, if not bagged, suffers very severe sunscald. This variety is extremely late-maturing. In normal years, it generally begins to ripen in early June, and the latest batch of fruit can be harvested in late June, about 20 days later than the maturity period of Dawuxing, and more than 10 days later than the famous late-maturing loquat variety Jiefangzhong, which is beneficial for filling market gaps, and the market price is 50-100% higher than that of Dawuxing. Wanwuxing loquat is one of the latest-maturing loquat varieties and is in the early stage of development. Even in its place of origin, Longquanyi District, Chengdu, the cultivation area is less than 100 mu, and the production area is less than 50 mu.HuangwuxingThe latest improved variety selected and bred - Huangwuxing. Newly selected and bred, with sweetness slightly higher than Dawuxing. The five-pointed star at the calyx depression of the fruit is relatively small, and other traits are basically the same as Dawuxing.DawuxingKing of loquat - Dawuxing loquat. Dawuxing loquat is the latest variety bred through seedling selection in Longquanyi District, Chengdu, and is a major achievement in loquat breeding since the founding of the People's Republic of China. This variety has the following characteristics: extra-large fruit and good commercial performance. After fruit thinning, the average fruit weight is 81g, and the maximum is 194g. It is currently the loquat variety with the largest fruit in China. The fruit is extremely beautiful. It clearly surpasses famous varieties such as Jiefangzhong and Luoyangqing (according to the latest test on May 9, 2001, after strict fruit thinning, the average fruit weight was 80.91g, and the maximum fruit weight was 206g; in orchards without fruit thinning, the average fruit weight was 66g, and the maximum fruit weight was 173g). The tree vigor is moderate, early fruiting performance is good, and it is extremely high-yielding. Generally, it tries to flower and bear fruit in the second year after planting, two years earlier than Jiefangzhong entering production. Plant 222 trees or 111 trees per mu. If flowers and fruits are not thinned, the yield per mu can reach 5,000kg, but in order to ensure the commercial performance of this variety, a large amount of flower and fruit thinning is required every year. Generally, more than 2/3 of the flowers and fruits must be thinned, and maintaining a yield of 2,000kg per mu is sufficient. In addition, the stable-yield performance is also good. Under normal management levels, there is almost no alternate bearing or the alternate bearing is not obvious. The flavor is rich and sweet, the sugar content is high, and the quality is extremely superior, overcoming the shortcoming of Jiefangzhong's rather sour flavor. Sugar 11.5-12.6 degrees, soluble solids 13.5-14.8%. The flavor clearly surpasses famous domestic varieties such as Jiefangzhong, and it is the best variety for producing high-grade fresh loquat fruit. On May 15-16, 2000, a large company, after inspecting domestic loquat production areas such as Fujian and Zhejiang, came to Longquanyi and Tongliang to inspect Dawuxing loquat. Tested with a self-carried sugar meter, the sugar content of fresh Dawuxing fruit reached 13.2 degrees, so the company gave Dawuxing the highest evaluation, believing that this variety currently has the most excellent comprehensive traits. Strong stress resistance, wide adaptability, simple management, few pests and diseases, and low production cost, suitable for vigorous development in all loquat production areas in the south. According to feedback after introduction and trial planting in nine southern provinces and regions, the performance of Dawuxing in each province exceeded all local varieties. Its performance in Guangdong and Guangxi was excellent, and its quality, flavor, and yield clearly exceeded those in Sichuan, and it was not affected in the slightest by the severe freeze damage at the end of 1999. The fruit has high hardness, strong peel toughness, and is resistant to storage and transportation. It can be stored and transported for more than 10 days at room temperature and can be stored for two months under cold storage conditions. If airlifted from Chengdu to the Shanghai market, the good fruit rate can remain above 99.5%. Therefore, it is conducive to capturing the northern market. The fruit harvest period is long. Generally, from the first batch of fruit coming to market to the end of harvest, the period lasts more than 20 days, greatly alleviating sales pressure. High edible rate, golden color, and attractive appearance. According to statistics on May 12, 2000, the edible rate reached 75.62%, clearly exceeding Jiefangzhong and Zaozhong No. 6. In addition, the fruit surface is golden and has few spots, which is conducive to entering supermarkets for sale as a high-grade fruit.
Off-season marketing. It generally ripens in early May in the Chengdu area, half a month earlier than Jiefangzhong. It ripens in late April in southern Hunan, southern Guizhou, and southern Jiangxi, and in mid-April in Guangxi and Guangdong. At this time, hundreds of fruits are not yet ripe, so it just fills the gap of other fruits, and therefore has extremely high economic value. This variety is the latest bred and, whether in appearance, fruit weight, or in yield performance, quality, stress resistance, and other aspects, greatly surpasses famous varieties such as Jiefangzhong, Luoyangqing, Taicheng No. 4, Dahongpao, Tianzhong, Maomu, Zaozhong No. 6, and Senwei Zaosheng. It won the silver medal at the "99 Kunming World Horticultural Exposition" (the highest award among loquat varieties). On June 10, 2000, the selected Dawuxing won the Golden Elephant Award at the "21st Century Agriculture and Animal Husbandry Science and Technology Achievement Exposition" hosted by the Thai Agricultural Economics Association and the Taiwan Agricultural Product Development Research Center.
Other classifications
Loquat, cherry, and bayberry are together called the three sisters of early summer, and there are more than 200 varieties. By maturity period, loquat can be divided into early, middle, and late types. Early-maturing varieties can come to market in May, middle-maturing varieties appear in large numbers in June, and late-maturing varieties can extend to early July.
According to fruit shape, there are round-fruited and long-fruited types. Generally, round-fruited types contain more seeds, while long-fruited types mostly have few seeds or a single seed.
According to fruit color, they are also divided into red-fleshed and white-fleshed types. Red-fleshed loquat is called "golden pill" because its peel is golden yellow, as written by Lu You in the Song Dynasty: "It is hard to learn from the powerful to pile up firewood, so follow the young gentleman to pick up golden pills." White-fleshed loquat has jade-colored flesh, and the ancients called it "wax pill," just as Guo Zhengxiang of the Song Dynasty wrote: "Each loquat still tastes sour, northerners once regarded it as a flower branch. I do not know what can truly compare, I only fear sending a flying letter to entrust a wax pill." The former has a long lifespan, strong tree vigor, and high yield, but its quality is inferior to the latter. Famous varieties include Yuanzhong and Jidanhong, etc.; Baisha loquat is inferior to Hongsha loquat in growth and yield, but has excellent quality. Famous varieties include Yuanzhong, Yuzhong, and Jidanbai, etc.
As far as varieties are concerned, red-fleshed types have thick peel that is easy to peel, sweet taste and coarse texture, and are suitable for canning. White-fleshed types have thin peel and thick flesh, fine texture and sweet taste, and are suitable for fresh eating. Famous loquat varieties include: "Ruantiao Baisha" from Yuhang, Zhejiang, with white flesh and sweet taste; "Jiefangzhong" from Putian, Fujian, with thick and tender flesh, abundant juice and delicious taste; "Zhaozhong Baisha" from Wu County, Jiangsu, with abundant juice, fine texture, and fresh sweet flavor.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of loquat
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huhua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
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Medicinal value
Fruit: sweet and sour in taste, neutral in nature; seed: bitter in taste, neutral in nature, entering the lung and stomach meridians;
Fruit: clears the lungs, promotes fluids, and quenches thirst; seed: eliminates phlegm and relieves cough, harmonizes the stomach, and descends rebellious qi;
Mainly used to treat lung heat and cough, chronic unrelieved cough, dry throat and thirst, and insufficient stomach qi, among other conditions.
Applied to cough: 9-15g loquat seeds, crushed, add 3 slices of ginger, decoct in water, remove residue and take, once each in the morning and evening.
Suitable population
1. People with lung atrophy and cough, chest tightness with profuse phlegm, blood-streaked sputum due to overexertion, and scurvy are especially suitable to eat it;
2. People with diarrhea due to spleen deficiency and diabetes patients should avoid eating it.
Precautions for selecting and eating loquat
When selecting loquat, choose those that are large and uniform, obovate in shape, with orange-yellow peel, intact fuzz, juicy, thin-skinned and thick-fleshed, and without green fruit.
If loquat is placed in the refrigerator, it will turn black due to excessive moisture. Generally, storing it in a dry, ventilated place is sufficient.
Because loquat contains polyphenolic components, after peeling, it easily browns and discolors. Soaking in cold water, sugar water, or salt water can prevent discoloration.
Never eat unripe loquat.
Diabetic patients should avoid eating it, and people with spleen deficiency and slippery diarrhea should eat less or not at all.
Brief introduction to dietary therapy. Effects:Moistens the lungs and descends qi; quenches thirst.Textual research:From "Mingyi Bielu."Main indications:Cough and asthma due to lung heat, vomiting, excessive thirst, chronic unrelieved cough, yin deficiency and lung dryness, coughing blood; stomach yin insufficiency, dry throat and thirst, loss of harmonious descent of qi, dry vomiting and unwillingness to eat, and other conditions.Properties:Fruit: sweet and sour, slightly sour in taste, neutral in nature. Clears the lungs, promotes fluids, and quenches thirst. Seed: bitter in taste, neutral in nature, entering the lung and stomach meridians, promotes fluids and quenches thirst, eliminates phlegm and relieves cough, harmonizes the stomach, and descends rebellious qi.Reference:The flesh contains sugar, protein, fat, pectin, carotene, vitamins B1 and C, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, and other components.Usage:Eat raw, make into paste, or decoct in water.Supplementary formulas:Loquat fruit includes both flesh and seed. The former can moisten the lungs and relieve cough, and the latter can resolve phlegm and relieve cough, together achieving the effects of moistening the lungs, resolving phlegm, relieving cough, and descending qi. Used for dryness-heat in the lung meridian, cough with phlegm. Selected dietary therapy prescriptions. Treating dry cough due to lung dryness: eat 5 fresh loquat fruits each time, twice daily. Treating lung cancer with heat-type cough, purulent sputum, and coughing blood: 15g loquat leaves (60g fresh), 100g japonica rice, a little rock sugar. First wrap the loquat leaves in cloth and decoct, take the thick juice and remove the residue. Or brush all the fuzz from the underside of fresh loquat leaves, cut finely, decoct to obtain juice and remove residue, add japonica rice to cook porridge. After the porridge is done, add a little rock sugar and take it with meals. Treating stomach cancer with persistent hiccups and inability to eat: 20g loquat leaves, 25g dried tangerine peel, 15g honey-fried licorice, 3 slices ginger, decoct in water and take, twice daily. Treating stomach cancer with lung metastasis, vomiting and hiccups, cough, and spontaneous sweating: several fresh loquat leaves, 250g glutinous rice. Soak the glutinous rice in clean water overnight, remove all fuzz from the fresh loquat leaves, wash them, wrap zongzi, steam until cooked, and eat. 1-2 times daily, for 3-4 consecutive days. Treating cough, jaundice, and preventing influenza: 60g loquat leaves (fuzz brushed clean), decoct in water and take in two divided doses. Treating diabetes: 60g loquat root, decoct in water and take. Treating jaundice: 120g loquat root, decoct in water, add an appropriate amount of brown sugar, take warm, once daily, for four consecutive days. Cough: 9-15g loquat seeds, crushed, add 3 slices ginger, decoct in water, remove residue and take, once each in the morning and evening. Loquat cough-relieving soup: 100g loquat (fruit), split into two halves, crush the seeds, add water and decoct as soup. Treating stomach heat: [Formula] 15 loquats. [Preparation] Put the loquats into a pot, add an appropriate amount of water, and simmer over gentle heat. [Administration] Take in divided doses each morning and evening. Treating hernia: [Formula] 10-20g loquat seeds. [Preparation] Crush the loquat seeds, put into a pot, add an appropriate amount of water, and decoct over gentle heat. [Administration] Take twice daily. Loquat for weight loss. Loquat is rich in crude fiber and mineral elements. Every 100g of loquat flesh contains 0.4g protein, 6.6g carbohydrates, and contains vitamin B1 and vitamin C, making it a very effective fruit for weight loss. Traditional Chinese medicine theory holds that weight loss should be based on strengthening the spleen, promoting diuresis, and resolving phlegm, and loquat possesses these effects, so it is a very good fruit for weight loss. The following introduces two ways to eat loquat: Loquat paste. Ingredients: 500g loquat flesh, 600g rock sugar. Preparation: Put the rock sugar into boiling water and cook until dissolved, add the loquat flesh and continue cooking until thick and paste-like. Loquat porridge. Materials: loquat, chrysanthemum, raw gypsum, japonica rice. Method: Wrap the above medicinal materials in cloth, then put them into a pot, add water and decoct; then add japonica rice and cook porridge. Usage: Take three times daily, and it will be effective in half a month. Effects: Both loquat and chrysanthemum have the effect of clearing the stomach and purging the lungs, and can treat acne caused by accumulated heat in the lungs and stomach. Loquat wine. Ingredients: 0.8L low-alcohol glutinous rice wine with an alcohol content of 10-12, 600g loquat, 2g clove, 6g vanilla bean, 10g lemon peel, 450g white granulated sugar, 1.1L cold boiled water. Preparation: Put the sugar into a pot, add a small amount of boiling water to fully dissolve it, then add washed, peeled, and seeded loquat, soak for 2 hours, then add crushed vanilla bean and stir evenly; wash the lemon peel, soak in warm water for 30 minutes, and cut into shreds; take a clean container, put in the wine, then add the lemon shreds, stir evenly, and soak for 30 minutes; take a clean container, put in the loquat mixture, then add the lemon mixture, stir evenly, finally pour in cold boiled water, and stir evenly. #5 After standing, store for 1-2 months, filter and remove residue.WineIngredients: loquat, rock sugar, low-alcohol white liquor
Method: If not peeling, remove both ends; score the surface, add rock sugar; use low-alcohol white liquor of about 30-40 degrees, and soak for nearly three months.Nature and taste:Sweet and sour, cool. ① "Shu Bencao": "The Tujing says, sweet and sour in taste." ② "Kaibao Bencao": "Sweet in taste, cold, non-toxic."Meridian entry: "Bencao Qiuzhen": "Enters the spleen and lungs, and also enters the liver."Functions and indications: Moistens the lungs, quenches thirst, and descends qi. Treats lung atrophy with cough and blood-streaked sputum, epistaxis, dry thirst, and vomiting. "Bencao Gangmu": "Quenches thirst and descends qi, benefits lung qi, stops vomiting and hiccups as well as thirst and phlegm." "Bencao Xinbian": "Loquat leaves, bitter in taste, neutral in qi, non-toxic. Enter the lung meridian, stop cough, descend qi, eliminate unceasing vomiting and hiccups, and also relieve thirst. When using, remove the fuzz, but only use it to stop cough due to yin deficiency; other coughs must not use it." "Benjing Fengyuan": It must be extremely ripe to have the effect of quenching thirst, descending qi, and moistening the five viscera. If it is unripe and sour in taste, its power can help the liver attack the spleen, and eating it causes abdominal fullness and diarrhea. Meng Shen: Benefits the five viscera. Cui Yuxi's "Shijing": Descends qi, stops vomiting and hiccups. "Rihua Zi": Treats lung qi, moistens the five viscera, descends qi, stops vomiting and hiccups, and also thirst diseases. "Diannan Bencao": Treats lung atrophy, overexertion damage, and blood-streaked sputum, cough with phlegm, and asthma and roaring. Also treats children's convulsions and fever.NoteJia Ming of the Yuan Dynasty mentioned in "Yinshi Xuzhi" that "wheat should not be eaten together with millet or loquat." "Suixiju Yinshi Pu": Eating too much promotes dampness and generates phlegm, and those with spleen deficiency and slippery diarrhea should avoid it. Loquat leaves are also a kind of traditional Chinese medicine. Large pieces of loquat leaves are dried and used as medicine. They have the function of clearing lung and stomach heat, descending qi, and resolving phlegm. They are often made with other medicinal materials into "Chuanbei Loquat Paste." However, like other related plants, the seeds and new leaves of loquat are slightly toxic. Eating them raw releases trace amounts of cyanide, but because they taste bitter, people generally will not eat an amount sufficient to cause harm. Li Shizhen, a medical scientist of the Ming Dynasty, recorded in "Bencao Gangmu": "Loquat is a fine product and good medicine for harmonizing the stomach, descending qi, clearing heat, and relieving summer heat." Because of its miraculous effects, loquat has been rated as the "crown of fruits" and was often used as a tribute in history. Both loquat flowers and leaves can be used as medicine. Loquat leaves have the functions of clearing the lungs and harmonizing the stomach, descending qi, and resolving phlegm, and are an important medicine for treating cough due to lung qi. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, Lin Xiechun, a worthy of Yunxiao who successively served as compiler of the Hanlin Academy, right assistant administration commissioner of the Huguang Surveillance Commission, Liangzhe joint administrator, and deputy commissioner of Huguang military defense, wrote in his manuscript "Yunshan Jushi Ji" (recorded in Ming History: Yiwenzhi) many poems and essays describing loquat cultivation. In the "Yunshan Academy," the temple in Yunxiao that enshrines Lin Xiechun, there are 260 medical divination lots, many of which have prescriptions using loquat leaves as medicine. It can be seen that Yunxiao was already rich in loquat in the Ming Dynasty, and its functions were well known to the common people. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Qiu Jin's grandfather Qiu Jiahe served twice (in 1878 and 1889) as subprefect in Yunxiao, and often placed the locally abundant loquat flowers, loquat leaves, and loquat roots in his residence for the common people to boil in water and drink, in order to nourish yin and reduce fire, clear the lungs and resolve phlegm, and treat colds, cough, excessive heat in the lungs and stomach, and dry mouth and tongue. He often told the people: "This is a folk medicine; it saves money and can also treat illness."Food incompatibilitiesJia Ming of the Yuan Dynasty mentioned in "Yinshi Xuzhi" that "wheat should not be eaten together with millet or loquat." Small prescription for preventing and treating influenzaFormula: 15g loquat leaves.
Preparation: Remove the fuzz from the loquat leaves, wash them, put them into a pot, add an appropriate amount of water and decoct, and it is done.
Administration: Take for 3 consecutive days.Cough treatment plan one
Formula: 12 loquats, 30g rock sugar. Preparation: Peel and seed the loquats, put them into a pot with rock sugar, add an appropriate amount of water and decoct as soup, and it is done.
Administration: One dose daily, for 5 consecutive days.Plan two
Formula: 30g loquat, appropriate amount of rock sugar.
Preparation: Remove the outer shell of the loquat seeds, sun-dry, crush, put into a pot, add an appropriate amount of water and decoct for 10-15 minutes, remove the residue, then add rock sugar, and it is done.
Administration: Take twice daily.
Effects: Most suitable for people with cough and profuse phlegm.Treating cough due to lung heat
Formula: Several loquats.
Preparation: Peel the loquats and eat them raw.
Formula: Administration: 10-15 daily, divided into 2-3 times to finish.
Treating stomach heat
Formula: 15 loquats.
Preparation: Put the loquats into a pot, add an appropriate amount of water, and simmer over gentle heat.
Administration: Take in divided doses each morning and evening.
Cultivation techniques of loquat. Cultivation methods.1. For loquat planting, it is advisable to choose flat, high-yield dry land cultivated over many years with deep, loose, fertile soil rich in organic matter. Soil pH 6.0 is most suitable. When choosing land, water sources must be considered to ensure that the orchard can be irrigated from November each year to May of the following year, and that transportation and shipping are convenient. Land with low, flat terrain that easily accumulates water should not be chosen. Before planting, deep plowing of more than 30cm must be carried out throughout. 2. Where irrigation conditions exist, planting in February-March is suitable; where there are no irrigation conditions, planting should be done in mid-June (early rainy season). 3. The climate is warm and loquat trees grow quickly, so the planting density should be 960.5 trees/hm, with a row spacing of 3m x 3.5m, and production can begin 3 years after planting. After a certain number of years, thinning out should be carried out, which is conducive to management and obtaining early high yields. 4. In September-October of the year before planting, while the soil is moist, dig planting holes 60cm deep, 80cm wide at the mouth, and 70cm wide at the bottom, and at the same time pile topsoil and subsoil separately. Apply 30kg farmyard manure or sugar mud and 0.8kg calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer as base fertilizer into each planting hole, mix with topsoil and apply into the planting hole, then backfill all the original subsoil. The backfilling work must be completed 2 months before planting the loquat seedlings, so that the base fertilizer is fully decomposed and the filled soil settles firmly. Transplanted seedlings should be selected from those free of pests and diseases, with dark green leaf color, well-developed root systems, a graft union thickness of more than 1cm, good union healing, and 45-50cm above the union (preferably branched). When planting, the root neck of the seedling should be level with the ground and must not be too deep. Some leaves and tender shoots should be pruned to reduce evaporation. When planting, let the fine soil fully contact the root system, compact the soil around the roots, and each plant must be watered with about 20L of settling water. After the water seeps down, cover with a layer of fine soil. Set the trunk at 45-50cm above the ground.Strengthen management of young treesIn the first year after planting, apply human excreta diluted to a concentration of 10%-30% 3-4 times; in the second year, apply 15kg of farmyard manure or decomposed sugar mud and 0.8kg of compound fertilizer per tree; pay attention to pest and disease control, and apply an appropriate amount of lime to acidic soil to promote the vigorous growth of young trees. Among the shoots that sprout in the current year on young trees, select 1 branch as the trunk and keep 4-5 branches to develop as the first tier of main branches; when the trunk has grown to 50cm above the first tier of main branches, pinch off the growing tip to encourage the sprouting of whorled branches for developing 3-4 second-tier main branches. When the trunk has grown another 50cm above the second tier of main branches, pinch off the growing tip again to encourage the sprouting of whorled branches for developing 3-4 third-tier main branches; when the main branches grow to 70cm, bend them into horizontal branches and pinch off the growing tips to promote the sprouting of secondary main branches and dwarf the canopy. After two and a half years of training, the branching reaches 6-7 orders. After unified heading, the first flush of shoots numbers 4-5, which are trained as first-order main branches; on each main branch, 3-4 shoots sprout in the first flush to form second-order sub-main branches; on each sub-main branch, another 2-3 shoots sprout to form third-order framework branches; then on the framework branches, fruiting branch groups are developed.Promoting and controlling flower bud differentiationGirdling, branch bending, and light breaking of branches to promote and control flower bud differentiation: In late June, make 2-3 girdling cuts on the trunk, and apply a 50-fold dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder to the wounds to prevent pathogen infection; from June to July, bend all main and lateral branches with a diameter of more than 1cm and a length of more than 70cm to form a 50-55 degree angle with the trunk, guiding the shoots to grow horizontally so that the branches grow at a slant with a slight droop; other branches are twisted or rubbed to change their growth direction and favor flower bud formation. 4.2 Fertilizer and water regulation of flower bud differentiation: From June to August, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; from June to August, after branch bending and before flower bud formation, if vigorous branch growth still cannot be controlled, spray the leaves with a mixture of 600-800 fold potassium dihydrogen phosphate and boric acid 2-3 times. From June to September, for vigorously growing loquat trees, dig trenches to drain rainwater, reduce soil moisture, and appropriately cut off part of the surface root mass to reduce moisture in the branches. 4.3 Using regulators to promote and control flower bud differentiation: Apply paclobutrazol (PP333) to the soil at 0.5g/m plus foliar spray at 1000mg/L, treating once each around June 20 and June 30; or spray paclobutrazol at 1000mg/L on the leaves once each month from June to August, so that summer shoots quickly stop growing, increasing cell sap concentration and C/N ratio, and promoting flower bud formation.Fertilization managementFertilizer should be mainly organic fertilizer, with balanced fertilization. For loquat orchards in production, apply 25kg of farmyard manure and 2kg of compound fertilizer with N, P, and K contents of 15% each per tree per year. From September to October when flower clusters begin to appear, the fertilization amount should account for 20%-30% of the annual fertilization amount; after fruit thinning, mainly apply compound mixed fertilizer with potassium fertilizer, accounting for 20%-30% of the annual fertilization amount; about 1 week before and after the main harvest, mainly apply organic fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer, accounting for 40%-50% of the annual fertilization amount. Remove flower clusters that are too small in the canopy, improperly positioned, or have excessive flower buds. When the support axes have just separated, cut off most of the support axes of the flower cluster, leaving only 2-3 relatively robust support axes in the middle; thin fruits when the quality of fruit development can be distinguished, leaving more on strong branches and fewer on weak branches, keeping young fruits in the middle section of the fruit cluster that have similar flowering periods and uniform size, and the retained fruits should not be scattered. For large-fruited varieties such as Zaozhong No. 6 and Jiefangzhong, keep 3-5 fruits per cluster; for medium-fruited Changhong No. 3, keep 4-6 fruits per cluster. To prevent uneven fruit color and skin scabbing caused by direct sunlight exposure, spray an insecticide and fungicide once after the final fruit thinning, make appropriately sized paper bags from kraft paper for bagging the fruit clusters, puff the paper bag when bagging to avoid the fruit touching the paper bag, and tie the bag opening with thin wire.Pest and disease preventionThe main pests and diseases include leaf spot disease, leaf sooty mold, branch and trunk brown rot, loquat shoot borer, pear fruit moth, red spider mite, and bats. To prevent leaf spot disease and leaf sooty mold, start spraying fungicides to protect the leaves when the leaves of each new flush have grown to half their size, generally using 0.5%-0.6% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture, 50% dimethachlon wettable powder or 50% carbendazim wettable powder, or 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800-1000 fold dilution, spraying once every 10-15 days, for a total of 2 times. To prevent branch and trunk brown rot, strengthen fertilizer and water management, enhance tree vigor, scrape off lesions as soon as they are found and burn the diseased bark, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 200 fold dilution to the scraped wounds, and after drying apply Bordeaux mixture to promote wound healing; if the lesion area is large and scraping is difficult, use a sharp knife to make vertical cuts every 2cm through the bark to the xylem, and apply 1:15 concentrated alkaline water; for unaffected branches and trunks, spray 50% thiram wettable powder at 600 fold dilution once every 15 days, 3 times in succession, for prevention. In winter, whitewash the trunk with lime slurry, and use 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 fold dilution, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500 fold dilution, and 5% hexythiazox wettable powder at 1000-2000 fold dilution for spraying control, which can effectively control pests. Bats mainly damage the fruit and can be caught by setting up sticky nets in the orchard.Harvest and handling8.1 Harvest at the appropriate time: harvest when the fruit is fully colored, shows the variety's inherent color, is fully ripe, and at peak quality. Do not harvest under intense sunlight. When harvesting, handle gently, hold the fruit stalk with your hand, and carefully cut it off with fruit shears; the fruit stalk should be shorter than 1cm, avoid rubbing off the fuzz on the fruit surface, and do not bruise the fruit, so as to avoid browning, which affects appearance and reduces commercial value. 8.2 Grading and packaging: After harvesting, grade and package on site in the orchard according to the national standard (GB/T 13867-92 Fresh Loquat Fruit) or according to buyer requirements. 8.3 Transport
Requires speed, stability, and low temperature. If conditions permit, using a cold chain system is best. (Source: Longchuan Agricultural Information Network)
Temperature key pointsLoquat originated in the subtropics and requires relatively high temperatures. It can grow normally when the annual average temperature is above 12°C, but for commercial cultivation the annual average temperature should be 15-17°C, with no severe cold weather. The loquat flowering period is in late winter and early spring, and low temperatures in winter and spring will affect its flowering and fruiting. At -6°C, freezing damage occurs to flowering; at -3°C, freezing damage occurs to young fruit; pollen begins to germinate above 10°C, and pollen germination is most suitable at around 20°C. However, when the air temperature or soil temperature reaches above 30°C, branch, leaf, and root growth becomes slow and poor, and if fruit encounters high temperatures of 35°C in the 7-15 days before harvest, it is very prone to sunburn damage and may even lose edible value. Loquat is not strict about soil requirements and has wide adaptability; generally, any soil can support growth and fruiting, but growth is better in loose soil containing more sand or gravel.Propagation and planting key pointsMainly propagated by sowing, but grafting can also be used. Sowing can be done immediately after seed collection in June. Grafting is generally mainly by cut grafting, which can be done in mid-March or from April to May; rootstocks can be loquat seedlings and Photinia. Planting is done from late March to early April before bud break, or in the plum rain period from May to June or in October. Planting seedlings need to retain many fibrous roots and attached soil to facilitate survival. The planting site is best facing south with little wind.Fertilizer requirement key pointsNitrogen is one of the elements most needed for loquat growth. Increasing nitrogen fertilizer can enhance tree vigor, delay the flowering period, and also has a certain effect on frost prevention. When nitrogen is sufficient, the tree is vigorous, with thick branches and large leaves, moderate flower quantity, large fruit, and high yield. When nitrogen is excessive, shoots grow excessively; although the fruit is large, the color and flavor are bland, and the flesh is relatively hard. When nitrogen is insufficient, growth is weak, shoots are few and short and thin, leaves are small and thin, old leaves fall early, and fruit is small with low yield. Phosphorus is present in large amounts in the reproductive organs of loquat; applying phosphorus can increase the fruit-setting rate, promote root growth, and increase the sugar content of the fruit. Loquat deficient in phosphorus has poor root growth, small leaves, dark green color, and weak growth. Potassium is present in large amounts in the fruit, and the potassium content in leaves and new shoots is also high. Increasing potassium fertilizer has a clear effect on promoting fruit enlargement and improving product quality. Potassium can also promote branch filling and improve disease resistance. Calcium is the element with the highest content in the loquat plant; calcium can regulate the acid-base balance of the tree, and on soil rich in calcium, loquat trees are vigorous. When calcium is deficient, loquat buds turn brown and die. Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll; when magnesium is insufficient, the areas between leaf veins lose green, leaves turn yellow, and they fall early. Looking at the loquat plant as a whole, calcium accounts for 0.71% of dry matter weight, potassium 0.53%, nitrogen 0.39%, magnesium 0.10%, and phosphorus 0.06%. Analysis of loquat fruit flesh shows that in addition to nitrogen, it also contains calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, boron, etc., among which iron content is the highest at 126-700 mg/100 g; potassium is next at 210 mg/100 g. Analysis of normal loquat leaves shows nitrogen 1.35%, phosphorus 0.09%, potassium 0.4%, calcium 0.16%, and magnesium 0.05%. If any element is lower than the above content, it indicates that the loquat lacks that element. Therefore, leaf analysis can serve as a basis for loquat fertilization.Greenhouse cultivation techniquesCultivation is intended to ensure that green loquat can provide high-quality fruit. Protected cultivation has the following techniques: Greenhouse heat preservation. Loquat is one of the easier fruit tree species for greenhouse cultivation. This is because when the greenhouse is covered, it is already flowering and fruiting, so there is no need to promote flowering and fruiting. Moreover, through the heat preservation effect of the greenhouse, it can both avoid low-temperature frost damage in winter and early spring and promote faster fruit development, earlier ripening, market capture, and high benefits. Loquat varieties selected for greenhouse cultivation should have the following characteristic requirements: Early maturity: because climate conditions vary from place to place, the maturity period is somewhat affected; however, it should be observed from the local actual situation that the variety has early maturity. In this way, after greenhouse cultivation, it can mature early and seize the market early. Large fruit shape: requires the maximum fruit weight that can be achieved after flower and fruit thinning; for example, the single fruit weight of red-fleshed types is above 50g; white-fleshed types above 30g. Bright fruit color: it should have the variety's inherent color, that is, the peel of red-fleshed types is orange-yellow or orange-red; the peel of white-fleshed types is yellow or orange-yellow. Coloring is uniform, with fewer rust spots. High sugar content: requires soluble solids of red-fleshed types to reach above 12%; white-fleshed types above 14%. Fresh eating taste is relatively sweet. Strong growth vigor: that is, strong adaptability to environmental conditions and vigorous tree vigor. According to these requirements, loquat varieties suitable for greenhouse cultivation include: red-fleshed types such as Tangqi Loquat, Huangyan No. 5, Fine-Core Loquat, Tangqi Zaofeng, etc. White-fleshed types include Xishang White Loquat, White Pear (also known as "White Lychee"), RuanTiao White Loquat, Zaozhong, etc. Greenhouse covering period: greenhouse heat preservation cultivation is intended so that the young fruit set from the early flowers of loquat neither suffers low-temperature freezing damage nor fails to develop. Therefore, it can make loquat fruit ripen early and be harvested early. Although a very small number of loquat flowers can open in late September, from early October to early December, temperatures in some southern places are sometimes still relatively high. After loquat is covered with a greenhouse, it is easy for the temperature inside to rise sharply, causing the tree to suffer high-temperature damage and lose a large number of leaves. Therefore, the relatively safe period for covering loquat with a greenhouse should be before the first low-temperature cold wave arrives. Judged by climatic conditions, it is early or mid-December. Of course, the earlier or later covering period is related to the maturity and harvest period of the fruit in the greenhouse. If the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse can indeed be adjusted well, and covering is done in early or mid-September, the fruit can mature and go on the market in early or mid-February of the following year. Management after covering is the key to the success or failure of greenhouse heat preservation cultivation of loquat. Management in the greenhouse includes disease and pest control, flower and fruit thinning, foliar fertilization, etc., as well as management techniques for temperature, humidity, and light.1. Temperature managementIt should be regulated according to the different phenological periods of loquat. "High-Yield and High-Quality Cultivation Techniques for Loquat" For example: slow young fruit development stage: daytime temperature should be 10-20°C, the maximum temperature can exceed 25°C, but must not exceed 35°C. The minimum nighttime temperature is 5°C. Fast young fruit development stage: daytime temperature is required to be above 25°C; but the maximum temperature must not exceed 35°C. Nighttime temperature is 7-10°C. Fruit coloring and ripening stage: daytime temperature is 25-30°C, and must not exceed 35°C. Nighttime temperature is 7-10°C.2. Humidity managementExcessively high air humidity, or excessive soil moisture, is unfavorable to the growth and development of loquat. Air relative humidity: different periods have different humidity requirements, such as: flowering period: that is, within one month after covering, air relative humidity is 75-85%. Slow young fruit development stage: requires 70-80%. Fast young fruit development stage: early stage 80-85%; later stage should be 65-70%. High humidity in the later stage hinders fruit coloring, so the humidity is reduced. Fruit harvest period: only 70-75%. Soil moisture: should not be too much. Therefore, generally no irrigation is done in the greenhouse. If special weather occurs and the soil is indeed short of water, methods such as hose drip irrigation or under-film hidden ditch water storage and seepage irrigation should be used to avoid increasing air relative humidity.3. Light regulationLight affects the development of loquat flower buds and young fruit, and also affects fruit coloring. However, too strong light will scorch the fruit. Therefore, the requirements are: Increase light. Methods include: (1) hang reflective curtains in the greenhouse; or lay white plastic film on the ground to increase reflected light, so that the lower part and inner canopy of the loquat tree can receive more diffuse light. (2) Combine long-wave radiation incandescent lamps and short-wave radiation white fluorescent lamps to supplement light in the greenhouse. Shading: to prevent sunburn of mature fruit from high temperature and strong sunlight; or when shading is needed for short-term cooling in the greenhouse, colored plastic film, straw curtains, shade netting, etc. can be used to shade and weaken the light intensity in the greenhouse. Loquat uses summer shoots as the main fruiting mother branches. After removing the greenhouse cover, grasp management firmly to promote robust summer shoots, so as to achieve the goal of high yield every year. The main management work after removing the greenhouse cover includes: fertilization, pruning, pest and disease control, etc. Fertilization includes: post-greenhouse fertilizer (that is, fruit harvest fertilizer) and pre-greenhouse fertilizer (that is, pre-flowering fertilizer). Pruning should mainly be heading back, supplemented by thinning, paying attention to controlling canopy height and promoting inner canopy branches, etc. Closely monitor the occurrence and damage of gray leaf spot and yellow hairy caterpillar, etc., and control them in time.Greenhouse rain shelteringThis is an effective method for increasing yield and improving quality in open-field loquat orchards. From the rapid fruit enlargement stage to the ripening stage, some loquat varieties are prone to fruit cracking. There are many causes of fruit cracking, but it is mainly caused by excessive rain and poor drainage in the orchard; or by adverse weather such as long sunny periods followed by sudden rain, or long rain followed by sudden clearing. There are many methods to prevent fruit cracking: strengthening fertilizer management, enhancing tree vigor; timely drainage or drought relief; timely pest and disease control, etc., all have effects. The previously introduced spraying of ethephon also has an effect. Loquat trees under greenhouse heat preservation cultivation basically have no fruit cracking. This section introduces open-field loquat trees, where rain-shelter cultivation has a clear effect on preventing fruit cracking and can produce twice the result with half the effort. It is determined according to the early or late fruit-cracking period of each variety. If the fruit-cracking period is earlier, it should be set up during the rapid fruit enlargement stage. Taking Huangyan, Zhejiang as an example, it starts on April 15. However, most start when the fruit begins to ripen. Also measured by Huangyan, Zhejiang, it is around May 10. Each place can decide according to specific conditions. There are many forms of rain-shelter facilities; but all are simple and improvised, with easily available materials and simple methods. Umbrella type: a rain-shelter facility independent for a single tree. That is, in the middle of the canopy, a vertical bamboo pole is tied, and plastic film is set up on the bamboo pole, like a sunshade umbrella. Sky-screen type: set up support posts of bamboo or wood at the four corners of the loquat orchard, then pull wire between the posts, then set up plastic film on it, and tie or clamp the four edges of the film firmly to the wire. There are also those that do not set up posts but use miscellaneous trees at the orchard edge, pulling wire onto the miscellaneous trees to set up a curtain. Shed-frame type: first build a shed frame at the orchard edge with bamboo or wood, then spread plastic film on the frame to become an elevated shed film. Management after installation is relatively simple. The main thing is to prevent strong winds from blowing off the film. If high temperature and strong sunlight occur, one option is to uncover the film and then cover it again around 4 p.m.; the other is to cover shade netting over the film to weaken light. Before rain, the film must be properly covered. Plastic film mulching technology. Plastic film mulching in loquat orchards is one of the protected cultivation methods that saves labor and cost, is simple in method, has many functions, and has remarkable effects. Plastic film mulching has many functions, such as:1. Avoiding soil property deterioration caused by loosening the soilThere has historically been a habit of intertillage and soil loosening in China. In fact, this artificially deteriorates soil properties. The reason is: after loosening the soil, "Cultivation and Management of Loquat and Chinese Bayberry" fine soil or fertile soil is easily washed away by rainwater. Frequent soil loosening not only hinders root absorption, but also affects the reproduction of soil microorganisms and the activity of soil enzymes, affecting the decomposition of soil organic matter and the supply of available nutrients. Too many soil loosenings will cause the soil to become compacted due to the sinking of fine particles. This sinking of fine particles is due to the combined effect of mechanical operations and rainwater infiltration. However, all are effects brought by soil loosening. Therefore, plastic film mulching can avoid the negative effects of soil deterioration caused by soil loosening.2. Improving soil conditionsAfter plastic film mulching, the soil's fertilizer and water retention performance is strengthened, and soil temperature can be regulated. For example: avoid fertilizer loss due to rainwater washing. Moreover, it prevents nitrogen in the soil from volatilizing due to ammonification. It is conducive to the effective exertion of soil fertility. It avoids excessive soil moisture caused by heavy rain or prolonged rain; and can also prevent the harm of soil water shortage during long-term drought. It regulates soil temperature. It will not affect loquat growth because summer is too hot or winter is too cold. According to our observations: the surface soil temperature in mulched orchards does not exceed 30°C at the highest in summer, 5.5-6.5°C lower than open field; while in winter (December to January of the following year), in the 0-40cm soil layer, the soil temperature in mulched orchards is 2.99°C higher than in open field, does not freeze, and is favorable for root growth.3. Increasing diffuse light in the loquat orchardDiffuse light is very favorable for fruiting in the lower part or inner canopy of the loquat tree. Because white plastic film is used for mulching, on sunny days, only 70-80% of natural light passes through the plastic film, and the natural light that cannot pass through the plastic film is reflected and becomes diffuse light in the loquat orchard space. If the loquat orchard has sufficient diffuse light, the fruit in the lower part of the canopy develops well, the fruit surface has good luster, and sugar content increases.4. Reducing pests and diseasesThe loquat caterpillar that harms loquat overwinters as pupae in the soil in winter, and plastic film mulching can hinder the emergence of its adults. For trunk base rot disease, because plastic film mulching can avoid soil water accumulation, it thereby reduces the occurrence of rot disease. Moreover, after plastic film mulching, it can avoid damage from white root rot at the roots. Therefore, plastic film mulching can reduce loquat pests and diseases. Thus it can reduce pesticide use and pesticide pollution of the environment. In short, plastic film mulching can enhance the tree vigor of loquat, significantly increase yield, improve quality, and also save labor and cost. Many comparative trials have confirmed that plastic film mulching significantly increases benefits. According to the needs of loquat growth and development, plastic film mulching is divided into two types: year-round mulching and seasonal mulching. Year-round mulching: suitable for autumn and winter mulching. This way it can be used for 1 year. After 1 year, if damaged, repair it. Seasonal mulching: although the mulching time is short; the effect is still remarkable. It is divided into: Spring mulching: mainly to promote flowering and fruiting; improve flower quality in the inner canopy; promote young fruit development; and also kill spring weeds. The period is early to mid-January. Summer mulching: mainly to prevent heavy rain from washing away orchard soil and promote summer shoot sprouting. The period is early May. Autumn mulching: aimed at promoting flower bud differentiation and development and preventing autumn drought. The period is late August. Winter mulching: to increase soil temperature and enhance the cold resistance of young fruit. The period is late October.Although the method of plastic film mulching is simple, attention should also be paid to:Full-bed mulching is required: that is, except for the ditches, the entire orchard should be covered with plastic film, and it must never be covered only near the trunk, otherwise it cannot serve the purpose of mulching. Choose non-toxic plastic film: plastic film includes white plastic film, black plastic film, and many other types. However, toxic ones must never be used. Japan has also developed a breathable plastic film, whose performance and effectiveness surpass previously used plastic film, with characteristics such as breathability, lightness, and strong durability, making it more suitable. If there is water accumulation in the orchard, drain it as early as possible. Never use plastic film mulching to eliminate water accumulation. If the roots are diseased, treat the disease first and then cover with film, so as to avoid worsening root disease after mulching. Loquat root drying is a measure to delay flowering and enhance cold resistance. In loquat orchards covered with plastic film, the film should be uncovered before drying the roots. However, after drying the roots and fertilizing, the film cannot be covered immediately. Cover the film more than 20 days after fertilization, so as to avoid ammonia gas poisoning the roots. Windbreak barrier construction. Windbreak barriers are an indispensable measure for cultivating loquat on coastal flats or open plains. Some ridge lands or windward mountain lands also require construction. The role of windbreak barriers for green loquat can be summarized in the following 3 aspects:1. Blocking strong winds and reducing cold damageThe construction of windbreak barriers is mainly to block strong winds and favor loquat growth and development. For example: because loquat roots are relatively shallow. With windbreak barriers, wind speed can be slowed, wind force reduced, and loquat trees can be prevented from being overturned. Blocking cold wind raises temperature. According to data, due to the influence of windbreak forests, temperature can increase by 0.5-1°C. Therefore, windbreak barriers can reduce cold damage to loquat flowers and young fruit.2. Favoring the activity and multiplication of natural enemiesMany natural enemies such as beneficial insects and beneficial birds that eat loquat pests like to move and multiply among trees. Because windbreak barriers are established, favorable conditions are created for them, and they also have a positive impact on controlling loquat pests. For example: because the seven-spotted ladybug and the multicolored Asian ladybug that prey on aphids both prefer cool shade. During high temperatures in summer and autumn, although they cannot be found in the loquat orchard; they all go to the barrier to move about. Because Casuarina equisetifolia, Sophora japonica, etc. in the windbreak barrier have many cracked bark, green lacewings like to overwinter in the cracks, and return to the loquat orchard the following year. In addition, the minute pirate bug also goes under the loose bark to occupy an overwintering spot, and the following year sucks the sap of lepidopteran larvae. Many hoverflies, when there are not many aphids on loquat, move to the barrier trees to prey on aphids. Adult parasitic flies go to the barrier to find Sophora japonica flowers and holly flowers to suck nectar, prolonging life and increasing oviposition rate. Trichogramma parasitizes the eggs of the pear fruit moth that harms loquat fruit at a rate of about 90%. Originally there are brown-banded tortrix moths in the barrier trees, and after Trichogramma reproduces a large number of offspring, they then rush into the loquat orchard. Beneficial birds such as great tits, azure-winged magpies, and willow warblers all build nests and raise young in the barrier trees. They become hunters of pests in the loquat orchard. Beneficial animals, in order to preserve life and reproduce offspring, have to avoid pesticides and go to the barrier forest to rest.3. Regulating climatic conditions in the loquat orchardIn addition to reducing cold damage; because loquat likes sun and tolerates shade, with the shading effect of barrier trees, the orchard temperature is lowered in hot high-temperature weather; or exposure to the sun can be delayed in the morning and shade can form earlier in the afternoon. In addition, windbreak barriers can block cold dry winds, damp hot warm winds, and the bitter salty halide winds suffered by loquat trees on coastal flats, regulating orchard humidity and favoring loquat growth. As a windbreak barrier for green loquat, the requirements are: before establishing the loquat orchard, organize the land well into a "well" shape or "field" shape. Plot area 2-3 hectares. Set up main roads, branch roads, irrigation and drainage canals and ditches, windbreak barriers, etc. in a regular pattern. For small loquat orchards, only set up windbreak forests on the west and north sides. For large ones, set up a wide forest belt on the north side, medium forest belts on the east and west sides, and a narrow forest belt on the south side. The width of windbreak barriers, according to the size of the orchard area, is set as: wide forest belt 8-10m wide; medium forest belt 5-6m wide; narrow forest belt about 3m. Windbreak barrier tree species should be a mix of tall and short trees. Tall tree species include metasequoia, Casuarina equisetifolia, sweetgum, white elm, etc.; short tree species include French holly, holly, privet, amorpha, green bamboo, etc. Because mulberry, etc. easily attract longhorn beetles, they are not suitable as windbreak barrier tree species. When controlling pests and diseases in windbreak barriers, similarly, highly toxic or moderately toxic pesticides cannot be used, so as to avoid polluting the environment. Windbreak barriers also need strengthened management and timely filling of gaps. If growth is excessively weak, fertilizer should also be applied. Make windbreak barriers exert greater effectiveness.Grafting and variety replacement techniques 1. Cut graftingThe cut grafting method is easy to operate, has a high survival rate, sprouts and shoots quickly, and uses less scion, and is the best grafting method for loquat variety replacement. Sawing (cutting) the rootstock: on the tree to be replaced, select 2-3 evenly distributed, slanting 1st-2nd order branches, saw them off 15-22cm from the branch, the cut should be smooth, slightly slanted, and not torn. The bark at the cut surface should be smoothed with a grafting knife, slightly slanted, and not torn. The bark at the cut surface should be smoothed with a grafting knife, leaving 1-2 slanting lateral branch nodes with a large branching angle below the grafting part as "water-pumping branches", and the remaining branches are sawed off from the main trunk fork; the grafting site is about 1 meter above the ground. Cutting the rootstock: choose a smooth bark area, at the junction of bark and xylem, slant slightly toward the xylem by 5-10 degrees, make a vertical cut slightly into the xylem, 2-2.5cm deep, the cut is straight; if the grafting part diameter is more than 6cm, make two cuts on opposite sides of the cross-section and graft two scions, so that the cross-section of the grafting part can heal as quickly as possible. Cutting the scion: hold the scion upside down in the left hand, hold the knife in the right hand, cut a long cut surface 2-2.5cm long slightly into the xylem at the base of the scion, cut the opposite side into a 45-degree slant, with a short cut surface 1-1.5cm long, the intersection of the two cuts forms a line; turn the scion around, leave 1-2 buds and cut it off; the scion is cut into a wedge shape, 3-4cm long, with 1-2 plump buds, the buds should be between the two cut surfaces, and the long and short cut surfaces should be straight. Inserting the scion and wrapping: the cambium of the scion and rootstock must be aligned and closely fitted; the insertion depth of the scion should preferably slightly expose the cut surface, so as to facilitate healing with the rootstock cross-section wound. After inserting the scion, immediately wrap with plastic film tape, first tightly tie two turns at the upper middle part of the grafting part to fix the scion, so that the cambium of the scion and the rootstock cut are closely fitted, then cover the rootstock cross-section with plastic film, continue wrapping the plastic film tape around, wrapping the entire grafting part, and wrap the scion part with plastic film leaving the buds exposed.2. Inlay graftingSuitable for replacement trees with tall trunks and grafting sites with a trunk diameter of more than 15cm. Inlay grafting is relatively difficult to perform, and the survival rate is lower than cut grafting; the scion is required to be thick and the amount used is large. Sawing the rootstock: generally saw the rootstock at 40-50cm above the ground; the trunk should leave 1/4 as an inverted rootstock, and must never be sawed off completely. If the canopy is relatively large, before sawing the rootstock, first saw off some large branches of the canopy to reduce canopy weight and prevent the trunk from tearing or the rootstock from breaking. Cutting the notch in the rootstock: use a hand saw to make a wedge-shaped notch about 1cm wide, 1.2-1.5cm deep, and 5-6cm long on one side of the smooth cross-section, trim the saw notch with a grafting knife so that the inside of the notch is slightly wider than the outside and the upper part of the notch is slightly wider than the lower part; at 2cm from the bottom of the notch, slope from inside to outside, and trim the two sides of the notch straight. Open a similar notch on the corresponding opposite side. Cutting and inserting the scion: on the two symmetrical sides of the scion branch, cut long slants 4-5cm long slightly into the xylem, cut the lower end of the inward side into a short slant about 2cm long, reaching deep into the pith of the scion, forming a wedge shape similar in shape and size to the notch; after the scion is cut, align the cambium on both sides and insert it into the notch, tap lightly downward so that the scion and rootstock fit closely. Wrapping: plug the gaps at the joint with sawdust, bind the grafting part firmly with plastic film tape, cover the cross-section with plastic film and tie it tightly, and wrap the scion part with plastic film leaving the buds exposed.
Cultural background of loquat
Shilin Guangji
The Santan loquat of Anhui is famous nationwide. In Huizhou folk culture there is a saying, "Queen Mother's flat peaches in heaven, Santan loquat on earth," and it is called one of the "Three Friends" together with cherries and plums. Harvest from April to May (Zaozhong No. 6 in Yunxiao, Fujian can generally be harvested in early February, and is hailed as "the first fruit of spring"), peel off the outer skin, and use the flesh fresh.
Related poemsSu Shi's poems also once mentioned this fruit: "Spring lasts all year round at the foot of Luofu Mountain; loquat and bayberry come fresh one after another. If I can eat three hundred lychees a day, I would not mind being a lifelong Lingnan man." "When guests come and tea is finished, there is nothing to offer; the loquat and bayberry are still sour." Someone asked him: what fruit is lu ju? He said, "It is loquat." Later some books also followed and said, "Loquat is also called lu ju." I think this is mostly Bachelor Su's "taking it for granted." Because in Sima Xiangru's "Rhapsody on the Shanglin Park" it says, "Lu ju ripens in summer, yellow mandarin and orange and hazelnut, loquat and wild jujube and persimmon, ting nai and hou po." Several things are listed side by side. It can be seen that lu ju is lu ju, and loquat is loquat, and an equals sign cannot be drawn between them. Li Shizhen said: "Those who annotated the 'Wen Xuan' took loquat as lu ju, which is a mistake." This is very correct. Yang Wanli wrote a poem on loquat: "Large leaves rise like long ears, one tip can fill a whole plate. Lychee has many pits, but kumquat has no sourness. Rain leaves weigh down low branches, flowing juice chills the teeth. Is Zhangqing still here now? Do not send him to be a garden official." The first six lines describe the characteristics of loquat fairly accurately, but lack poetic flavor. Although Confucius said that reading poetry can help one learn many names of birds, beasts, and plants, poetry is after all not a botany textbook. Guo Moruo's "A Hundred Flowers Bloom" is a failed example. Yang Wanli's loquat poem seems to have opened the precedent for Guo's kind of poetry. As for the last two lines, it is even less clear what he is saying. Although Sima Xiangru wrote about loquat in "Rhapsody on the Shanglin Park," he did not show an appearance of drooling, nor did he have a record like Sun Wukong of stealing flat peaches, so what does it matter whether he becomes a garden official or not? There is also a doggerel poem about loquat, which says that someone sent loquat to another person, with an attached letter saying: sending two baskets of pipa, and so on. The recipient then wrote a poem: "Loquat is not this pipa; it is only because people back then were poor at recognizing characters. If the pipa could bear fruit, all the flutes and pipes in the city would bloom." Although the poem is witty, eating the loquat sent by someone while writing a poem to mock them also makes people feel uncomfortable. As Lu You of the Song Dynasty wrote, "It is hard to learn from the powerful to pile up fire-aligning gems; better to follow the young lord and pick up golden pellets." The white-fleshed loquat has jade-colored flesh, which the ancients called "wax pellet," just as Guo Zhengxiang of the Song Dynasty wrote, "Each loquat still tastes sour; northerners once regarded it as a stamen branch. I do not know what thing can truly compare; I only fear sending a flying letter to entrust a wax pellet." Song Qi of the Song Dynasty wrote: "There is fruit in Western Shu, blooming in early cold. The tree is lush with jade-green leaves, and the branches pile with golden pellets. The soil cannot be sent, and chewing the flavor alone brings long sighs." This is a realistic description of the flowers, leaves, and fruit of the loquat tree, very accurate. Yang Shie of the Tang Dynasty wrote: "The precious tree begins to bloom in the cold, dense and misty in the ninth autumn month. If there is an appointed time, it seems to wait; fragrant intent is often unending. Swift swift the green sea wind, misty misty the green branch snow. In hurried scenery there is lingering beauty, and spring birds take pleasure in it themselves." It depicts the loquat tree like a graceful maiden, not competing with others for spring, but only in the season when all flowers wither and autumn leaves fall and late autumn begins to nurture flower buds until they open in deep winter, facing mist and snow, alone showing noble purity, leaving golden pellets. It leaves a deep impression on people. Shen Zhou of the Ming Dynasty wrote: "Who cast three hundred golden pellets, the bullet embryo slightly wet with dew oozing. From now on, to hit the magpie, why need jade; there is still tin syrup chilling the teeth."
Loquat pictures