Flower grafting is actually not difficult; master the method and you can get started easily

For some flowers that do not easily set seed, that tend to mutate when propagated sexually (by seed), and that are difficult to root from cuttings or layering, grafting is generally the method used for propagation. Grafting means attaching the branch (or bud) of one plant onto another plant that has a root system. The branch (or bud) that is attached is called the scion, and the plant that bears the scion is called the rootstock.

The mother plant from which scion wood is taken should meet the conditions of being a superior variety, growing vigorously, physiologically mature, and free of pests and diseases; the plant used as the rootstock should have a strong root system, a vigorous constitution, and strong adaptability, and it is a wild or semi-wild species. For grafting to succeed, the first requirement is strong "compatibility" between the scion and the rootstock.

In general, with grafting between the same species, for example using flowering peach as the scion and wild peach as the rootstock, the strongest compatibility is called same-stock grafting; with grafting between different species of the same genus in plant classification, for example using flowering plum as the scion and wild peach as the rootstock, compatibility is poorer. Grafting between different genera of the same family, as well as "distant grafting" between plants of different families, is more difficult and does not easily survive.

Cleft grafting is generally carried out when sap begins to flow or when flow is nearly stopping, that is, in early spring and late autumn; bud grafting is carried out when sap flow is relatively vigorous and the scion buds are well developed; the timing for approach grafting can be relaxed appropriately, and it can be done at any time during the growing season (June-August).

1. Cleft grafting

This method uses branches as scions. Its advantages are a relatively high survival rate and fast growth of the grafted seedlings. Cleft grafting is generally carried out during the dormant period. Commonly used cleft grafting methods include:

① Cleft grafting: Cleft grafting is the most commonly used method in the graft propagation of woody flowers, and is suitable for rootstocks with a rhizome 1-2 cm thick.

The method is: cut off the rootstock 3-5 cm above the ground and smooth the cut surface, then choose a smooth side of the rootstock bark, and make a straight downward cut between the xylem and the phloem (that is, where it slightly includes xylem), about 2.5-3 cm deep.

For the scion, choose a plump one- or two-year-old branch, cut it with a sharp knife into small sections about 5-7 cm long, each with 2-4 buds, then cut one side of the lower end of the scion deep into the xylem into a slanted surface about 3 cm long, and cut a small slanted surface about 1 cm long on the other side, making it into an unequal-sided wedge shape.

After the scion is cut, face the large cut toward the rootstock incision so that the cambium of the scion and the rootstock align. If the width of the scion cut surface equals that of the rootstock cut surface, the cambium on both sides can be joined, but usually only one side can be aligned. Finally, bind tightly with plastic film and earth up. Be careful not to disturb the scion, so as to avoid the cambium of the two sides shifting apart.

After it survives and grows firmly, loosen the binding material. Be careful not to do this too early or too late; otherwise, when the rootstock grows thicker, the binding material will become embedded in the rootstock bark and cause adverse consequences.

② Splice grafting: Splice grafting is used for grafting flowers such as chrysanthemums and other herbaceous flowers, as well as tender azalea branches. The method is: first cut off the upper part of the rootstock branch, slip on a bark ring of rose of Sharon, willow, or another plant branch that matches the branch in size, or another binding material, then make a vertical cut from the center of the branch straight down along the pith, with the incision about 3 cm long;

Then, from the scion cut in advance, keep only the top 2-3 leaves and cut off all the rest, then make a slanted cut at its lower part to form a wedge, insert it into the incision of the rootstock so that the cambium on both sides, or at least one side, fits closely with the rootstock, and at the same time push the previously slipped-on bark ring upward to the graft union to enclose and secure it.

After it survives, the bark ring will naturally split and fall off, and does not need to be removed separately.

2. Bud grafting

The method of grafting using a plant's bud as the scion is called bud grafting. The advantages of bud grafting are economical use of scion material, convenient operation, a high survival rate, and a longer grafting period, generally from June to October. The two commonly used types are "T"-shaped bud grafting and square bud grafting (chip budding).

① "T"-shaped bud grafting: "T"-shaped bud grafting is also called shield bud grafting. The method is: first wipe the mud and dust from the shaded side of the rootstock with a cloth, then about 3 cm above the ground, use a budding knife to make a horizontal cut reaching the xylem, 1 cm long, then make a straight downward cut from the center of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 cm long, making it into a "T" shape, and use the lower end of the grafting knife to lift open the bark so as to insert the bud plate. Cut off the leaves of the branch selected as the scion, but keep the petioles.

Hold the branch with the left hand and the grafting knife with the right hand. First make a horizontal cut 1 cm above the bud reaching the xylem, about 0.8 cm long, then cut upward from 1 cm below the bud, slightly including xylem, until reaching the horizontal cut, so that the bud becomes a shield shape that is wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. The cut surface should be smooth, with the bud in the center.

Then insert the bud plate into the "T"-shaped incision of the rootstock, aligning and closely fitting the upper end of the bud plate with the horizontal cut mark of the incision. Bind tightly with plastic film tape, leaving only the bud and petiole exposed outside.

② Square bud grafting: Square bud grafting is also called chip budding. The bud plate is square in shape, about 1.5 cm long and about 1/3 of the circumference of the scion branch in width, without xylem, but care should be taken not to detach the vascular bundle sheath inside the bud (commonly called the "bud flesh").

The cuts on the rootstock should match the bud plate; in particular, the distance between the upper and lower cuts must be equal to that of the bud plate. Peel away the bark within the rootstock cuts, insert the bud plate so that the top and bottom align closely, and it is best if the left and right also fit closely; if the bud plate is narrow, close fitting on one side is also acceptable. Be careful that the bud plate cannot be larger than the rootstock cuts. Then bind with plastic tape.

About one week after bud grafting, check the survival status. Touch the petiole with your hand; if the petiole falls off at a touch and the bud is plump and green, it shows that it has survived; if the petiole does not fall and the bud dries and withers, it shows that the grafted bud has died, and if the grafting period has not passed, it can be re-grafted immediately. More than ten days after survival, loosen the binding promptly.

3. Approach grafting

Approach grafting is also called inarching. This method is mostly used for flower plants that do not easily survive with ordinary grafting methods, but the operation is more troublesome and it is not convenient for mass propagation.

There is no strict limit on the timing of approach grafting; it can be done at any time during the period when the sap of the flower tree is flowing. Deciduous flower trees can be approach grafted when the leaves are growing vigorously; evergreen flower trees are mostly approach grafted in summer from May to June, that is, during the plum rain season.

The characteristics of approach grafting are: the scion does not need to be cut away from the mother plant, and can rely on the mother plant for nutrients and water, and the rootstock does not need its top cut off.

The method is: first place the potted rootstock close beside the scion mother plant, with the position and distance between the two appropriate, then select nearby smooth, node-free branches from each, peel off the bark, and cut an incision of the same size on each, reaching the xylem, then align the cambium and join the two cut surfaces together, and bind tightly with plastic film strips.

After about three or four months, the cut surfaces of the two branches heal completely. Cut off the upper end of the one used as the rootstock above the healed area, and cut off the lower end of the one used as the scion below the healed area, forming an independent plant.

4. Flat grafting

Flat grafting is also called butt grafting. Flat grafting is used for grafting cacti. When grafting, cut off the top of the rootstock horizontally, then cut off the lower end of the scion horizontally, then align and press the graft union firmly, and finally bind and secure it with fine thread.

A rundown of the most expensive flowers in the world

The fresh flowers we often see in daily life are not too expensive and are within a range people can accept. At the same time, there are also many precious flowers in the world; these flowers are extremely rare, so their prices are especially high. Today the editor will introduce you to these especially expensive flowers.

1. Sri Lankan cactus flower priceless

Why is the Sri Lankan cactus flower priceless? Because its flowering date is completely irregular, and it blooms only at night for one or two hours, so this flower cannot be seen on the market at all. The flowers of the Sri Lankan cactus flower are extremely charming, and this magical species has never been listed for sale, which makes it priceless on the market.

2. Juliet rose 10 million euros/pounds

The reason the Juliet rose is so expensive is that, in addition to factors such as its size, fragrance, and color, another reason is that the rose can bloom only after growing for 15 years, so it is very rare.

3. Shenzhen agricultural science orchid  160,000 euros/pounds

The reason this orchid is precious is that it can bloom for only 4 to 5 years. Scientists spent 8 years cultivating this precious and beautiful orchid, and it fetched a high price of 160,000 euros per pound at auction.

4. Grafted orchid 80,000 euros/pounds

The grafted orchid has brilliant colors and also the fragrance of a lily, combining the characteristics of two kinds of flowers. From this alone you can imagine why it is so expensive.

5. Kinabalu orchid gold  3,800 euros/pounds

The Kinabalu orchid gold exists only in the national parks of Malaysia, and it takes 15 years to cultivate and bloom. It is an endangered species

6. Dutch color-changing tulip 3,600 euros/pounds

This variant tulip is expensive; its color is random, and depending on personal preference, the price may double.

7. Saffron 800/pounds

The value of saffron proves the saying "birthplace is value." Before its aesthetic value appeared, it was an expensive spice. Today it has been endowed with more mysterious color and religious meaning, and this is exactly what makes saffron charming. a

Cultivation management and care precautions for hydrangea

The proper name of hydrangea is wax flower, also known as eight immortals flower, purple sun flower, seven transformations, foreign hydrangea, and powder ball flower. It is native to the Sichuan area of China and Japan. It is a deciduous shrub of the genus Hydrangea in the family Hydrangeaceae of the order Cornales. Its flowers are almost entirely sterile flowers; the so-called “flowers” are merely sepals. China cultivated eight immortals flower relatively early, and hydrangea was planted in Jiangnan gardens built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Parks built in the early 20th century were also inseparable from hydrangea plantings. Modern parks and scenic areas all plant them in large patches to form landscapes. Artificially bred hydrangeas have large flowers and brilliant colors, with flower colors including blue, white, purple-red, pink, peach red, and so on. It is a common ornamental flower tree.

Growth habits of hydrangea

We must first understand the growth habits of hydrangea in order to grasp the cultivation methods of hydrangea in a targeted way. Hydrangea is native to the Yangtze River Basin of our country, and by nature likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It fears both drought and waterlogging, and is not cold tolerant. In cold regions, the aboveground parts die in winter and new shoots sprout again only the following spring. Hydrangea likes fertile, moist, well-drained light loam and has strong adaptability. The acidity and alkalinity of the soil have a relatively large effect on the flower color of hydrangea; in acidic soil it is mostly blue, and in alkaline soil it is mostly red.

Propagation methods of hydrangea

Cuttings, division, layering, and grafting are commonly used for propagation, with cuttings as the main method. During the plum rain season, select vigorous young branches from a young mother tree as cuttings. The base of the cutting needs to have a node and be dipped in mud slurry, about 20 cm long, and the lower leaves should be removed. The suitable temperature for cuttings is 1 3-18°C. After insertion, shade is needed and moisture should be kept frequently. Roots develop in about 15 days to 1 month, and after survival they can be transplanted in the second year. Division propagation is suitable before budding in early spring. Separate rooted branches from the mother plant and pot them directly; watering should not be excessive, and they should be maintained in semi-shade, then transferred to normal care after new buds sprout. Layering propagation can be carried out when buds swell, growth can occur after 30 days, and the following spring cut it off from the mother plant, transplant it with soil, and it can bloom that year. Generally, air layering is carried out in spring from March to April, roots can form from June to July, and it can be cut off and planted separately that year. For graft propagation, use seedlings of Chinese snowball viburnum as the rootstock and cleft graft in spring; it easily survives. Transplanting is suitable after leaf fall or before budding, and it must be kept with original soil. The main branches easily sprout water sprouts, and after flowering they need appropriate pruning to tidy the tree shape.

Cultivation management of hydrangea

The suitable growth temperature for hydrangea is 18-28°C, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. Flower bud differentiation requires 6-8 weeks at 5-7°C. A temperature of 20°C can promote flowering. After flowering begins, maintaining 16°C can extend the viewing period. However, high temperatures make the flowers fade quickly. Hydrangea is a short-day plant; with more than 10 hours of darkness treatment per day, flower buds form in about 45-50 days. Potted hydrangeas commonly use 15-20 cm pots. After potted plants sprout in spring, pay attention to watering sufficiently to ensure the leaves do not wilt. During the flowering period from June to July, fertilizer and water should be sufficient, with fertilizer applied once every half month. In ordinary cultivation, avoid direct sunlight; 60%-70% shading is ideal. When the light is too strong in midsummer, appropriate shading can extend the viewing period. After flowering, remove the flower stems to encourage new branches.

The soil is best as loose, fertile, and well-drained sandy loam. But flower color is affected by soil acidity and alkalinity: acidic soil produces blue flowers, and alkaline soil produces red flowers. The potting soil should be kept moist, but watering should not be excessive. Especially in the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot caused by waterlogging. In winter, indoor potted plants are better kept slightly dry. If too humid, the leaves easily rot. Repot once every spring. Prune appropriately to keep the plant shape graceful.

Potting and pruning of hydrangea

Hydrangea propagation is suitable in spring and autumn, but late spring and early summer (late April to July) are best. At this time, the flowering period of hydrangea has basically ended in May. After removing faded flowers and dead leaves and carrying out pruning, new branches and leaf buds have grown, and at this time the top branch buds can be cut as cuttings. Cuttings can also be taken from late September to October. In early spring, after hydrangea is pruned and top buds are taken as cuttings, many new branch leaf buds sprout again. At this time, because the weather turns cooler, it is suitable for cutting propagation.

1. In addition to seedbeds made of bricks, for easy movement and management, foam boxes can be used as seedbeds. First cut several openings in the bottom of the box and cover the openings with tile pieces, fill in a layer of coarse sand, then add culture soil (3 parts sand, 2 parts sterile mountain soil, mix well), and level it before inserting cuttings. Cut the cuttings into sections 10-15 cm long, remove the lower leaves of the terminal branch, and keep only the top 2-3 leaves. After cutting, tie the cuttings neatly and level them. In order to make the cuttings' wounds heal and root earlier, soak the leveled cuttings in a strong rooting agent (about one packet diluted with 0.2 kg of water) for 5-10 minutes before inserting. After inserting, press the soil around the branches firmly with your fingers so that the cuttings and soil are closely combined. Then water thoroughly once with a watering can. After that, as long as the bed soil is moist, there is no need to water, but the leaves of the cuttings should be misted frequently and the environment around the seedbed should be kept moist. If the weather is hot and the sunlight is strong, a shade shed must be set up for shading. With such careful management, in about 25 days the wounds begin to heal, and new roots grow from the nodes.

2. Potting and maintenance: After about 25 days of careful management, hydrangea has survived and new leaf buds begin to grow upward from the top buds. At this time it must be divided and potted for management. The culture soil for cultivating hydrangea uses coniferous soil (relatively high in acid) plus bran material, and nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (according to the proportion of coniferous soil) compound fertilizer mixed with soil, piled and fully fermented for more than half a year. Before use, turn it over and air it in the sun for several days, and then it can be used. After the seedlings survive and the top branches grow to about 10 cm, the first pinching can be carried out to encourage new leaf buds to sprout from the lower part; when the several branch buds that later grow reach a certain length, carry out a second pinching, and let them grow evenly and luxuriantly. When the main trunk and branches are thick and strong, leave only 3-4 branches and let them grow. From potting survival to branch setting, fertilizer needs to be applied 3-4 times, mainly potassium dihydrogen phosphate.

Pest and disease control of hydrangea

1. The main diseases and insect pests of hydrangea are wilt disease, powdery mildew, and leaf spot disease. Spray 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.

2. Insect pests include aphids and mirids. Spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill them.

Precautions for growing hydrangea

1. Hydrangea is toxic, and mistakenly eating the stems and leaves of hydrangea can cause colic, abdominal pain, diarrhea, vomiting, rapid breathing, and blood in the stool. In people's imagination, hydrangea is as naturally edible as cotton candy and round bread, but in fact, once hydrangea is eaten, abdominal pain appears a few hours later. Other typical poisoning symptoms also include skin pain, vomiting, weakness, and sweating, and there are reports that patients may even experience coma, convulsions, and collapse of blood circulation in the body. Fortunately, an antidote for hydrangea poisoning has now been developed. In addition, it should be noted that hydrangea easily causes allergies, and it is generally not recommended to place it in the bedroom. Flower lovers are advised to choose flowers according to individual differences, choosing flowers they like that are harmless, and not to grow too many flowers indoors, and to pay attention to maintaining air circulation.

2. Hydrangea cultivation should pay attention to appropriate watering. After the Beginning of Spring, hydrangea must be given rain, dew, and sunlight, and watered in the morning and evening.

The flower language of hydrangea

1. Hope: Hydrangea, native to the Mediterranean, has always been known for being an evergreen tree that blooms in severe winter. In cold winter, suddenly seeing pink flower buds and white flowers seems to tell people that spring is near. Therefore the flower language of hydrangea is -- hope. People born under the blessing of this abundance of flowers are extremely patient and tolerant. They will bring hope to many people, and their own lives are also very rich.

2. Loyalty and eternity: refers to loyalty in love and the eternity of mutual affection. The flower language of blue hydrangea is romance and bliss.

3. Bliss and reunion: The round flowers and beautiful posture of hydrangea symbolize the inseparable bond with relatives; no matter how long they are apart, they will reunite together again.