Can an orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) that has grown too tall be pruned and the cuttings propagated?
The orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) has grown too tall to fit indoors; can it be cut back? Can the pruned branches be used for cutting propagation?
The orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) prefers warmth and sunlight and is sensitive to cold; before the "Start of Winter" (Lidong), frost protection and warmth measures need to be taken. A plant that has grown too tall can indeed be pruned. However, branches pruned in winter are difficult to root as cuttings because indoor home temperatures are low. The best time for taking orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) cuttings is June.
Planting methods and cultivation management techniques for the osmanthus tree
Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) is an evergreen tree of the genus Osmanthus in the family Oleaceae, also known as muxi, yangui, jinsu, jiulixiang and so on. It has a cultivation history of more than 2500 years in our country, is one of the ten traditional famous flowers of our country, and is also one of the most precious flowering trees for modern urban greening. It originated in the southwest and central-south regions of our country, and is now widely cultivated in the provinces along the Yangtze River basin, while in the North China and Northeast China regions it is mostly grown in pots. It has a graceful tree form, luxuriant branches and leaves, verdant green foliage, and is evergreen through all four seasons, especially attracting people with its subtle and fragrant scent, truly “dominating the three autumns and overshadowing all other flowers”, and has been designated as the city flower by world-famous tourist cities such as Suzhou, Hangzhou and Guilin.
Overview of osmanthus cultivation
1. Varieties of osmanthus: There are many varieties of osmanthus, mainly including Jingu, Yingui, Dangui and Sijigui, etc. The Jingu tree is tall, with a round, full crown, large, deep green, glossy leaves that are oval-shaped with wavy leaf margins and thick blades, and golden-yellow flowers with the strongest fragrance; Yingui has smaller, oval, ovate to obovate, relatively thin leaves, with yellow-white or pale yellow flowers, a fragrance slightly weaker than Jingu, and a flowering period 1 week later than Jingu; Dangui has smaller, lanceolate or oval leaves with pointed tips and rough leaf surfaces, with orange-yellow or orange-red flowers and a relatively faint fragrance; Sijigui has oval, relatively thin leaves, yellow or pale yellow flowers, a long flowering period, blooming several times except in severe cold and extreme heat, but mostly in autumn, with a faint fragrance and smaller leaves, mostly growing in a shrub-like form.
2. Habits of osmanthus: Osmanthus prefers a warm and humid climate and has a certain cold resistance, but is not tolerant of severe cold. It likes light and also tolerates shade, and seedlings need a certain degree of shading. It does not demand much from the soil, preferring slightly acidic soil on high, dry terrain rich in humus, and is especially best suited to sandy soil with deep soil layers, fertility, moisture and good drainage. It is not tolerant of arid, barren soil, and avoids saline-alkaline soil and waterlogged land; planting it in overly wet land with poor drainage will cause poor growth, root rot and leaf drop, ultimately leading to the death of the whole plant.
3. Cultivation value of osmanthus: Osmanthus has relatively wide applications. It is often planted in gardens, along both sides of roads, on lawns and in courtyards, and is the best greening tree species for government offices, schools, the military, enterprises and institutions, streets and homes. Because it has a certain resistance to harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide and hydrogen fluoride, it is also an excellent flowering tree for greening industrial and mining areas. Paired with mountains, rocks, pavilions, terraces, buildings and towers, it appears even more dignified and elegant, pleasing to the eye and delightful to the mood. It is also an excellent material for potted plants; made into a bonsai, it can be enjoyed for its form, its stone-like flowers and its fragrance, truly “three benefits in one”. In addition, osmanthus wood is hard, glossy and beautifully grained, making it a fine material for carving. Osmanthus is an important raw material for making osmanthus sugar, osmanthus tea, osmanthus wine and osmanthus cake, and the essence extracted from osmanthus is widely used in the food industry and the chemical industry. The bark can be used to extract dyes and tanning materials, and the leaves can be used as a seasoning. They add a fresh fragrance to food.
Osmanthus propagation methods
1. Cuttings and grafting: Osmanthus propagation methods include sowing, cuttings, grafting and layering, etc. In production, cutting and grafting propagation are the most common. Cutting propagation has the advantages of simple technique, large propagation quantity, fast speed, high survival rate and low cost, and is the most widely adopted and most commonly used propagation method by nursery producers and flower enthusiasts.
① Cutting time: From early March to mid-April, 1-year-old spring shoots can be selected for cuttings; this is the best cutting time. It is also possible to select semi-mature branches of the current year from late June to late August for heel cuttings, but this has high requirements for temperature and humidity control.
② Cutting and treatment of cuttings: From young to middle-aged trees, select robust, plump, pest-free branches from the upper-middle and outer parts of the tree body as cuttings. Cut the branches into 10—12 cm lengths, remove the lower leaves and keep only the upper 3—4 leaves. If conditions permit, soak the cuttings in a 50 to 100 ppm GGR6 solution for 0.5—1 hour, which is greatly beneficial for rooting of the cuttings.
③ Cutting medium preparation: Use slightly acidic, loose, well-aerated soil with good water retention as the cutting substrate. Before cutting, disinfect and sterilize the cutting medium with drugs such as carbendazim and quintozene.
④ Management after cutting: The main task is to control temperature and humidity, which is the key to whether the cuttings can take root and survive. The optimal rooting soil temperature is 25—28°C, and the optimal relative humidity should be maintained above 85%. Methods such as shading, plastic arched sheds, sprinkling water and ventilation can be used for control. Secondly, attention should be paid to mold prevention, because high temperature and high humidity easily breed mold; carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl can be used alternately every week for spraying and sterilization. Grafting propagation has the advantages of fast seedling formation, vigorous growth, early flowering and small variation, and is also one of the more commonly used methods.
⑤ Cultivating rootstock: Mostly 1—2-year-old seedlings such as privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui) and small-leaf ash are used as rootstock. Among these, grafting osmanthus onto privet has a high survival rate and fast initial growth, but the wound heals poorly, and it is prone to breaking off when hit by strong winds or external collisions.
2. Grafting propagation: Grafting is carried out around Qingming Festival. There are two most commonly used methods in production: one is the cleft grafting method, and the other is the side grafting method. For the scion, it is advisable to select fully lignified 1—2-year-old robust, disease-free branches from mature trees, remove the leaves and retain the petioles. When using the cleft grafting method, the rootstock should be cut off 4—6 cm above the ground before grafting in spring before the seedlings sprout. The thickness of the scion should match the thickness of the rootstock, and the cut surface of the scion should be smooth. The key to successful cleft grafting lies in aligning the cambium layers of the rootstock and scion and tying them tightly. When using the side grafting method, there is no need to cut off the rootstock; the scion bud is directly inserted into the rootstock, and the rootstock is cut off only after the grafting succeeds. Whichever grafting method is used, the scion should be grafted as soon as it is collected. For scions collected from other places, be sure to keep the scion branches fresh. Grafting is best done on sunny, windless days. After grafting, attention should be paid to checking the survival rate and carrying out work such as supplementary grafting, bud wiping, rootstock cutting, removing tying bands, water and fertilizer management, and pest and disease control.
3. Propagation by sowing: Osmanthus can also be propagated by sowing. However, because some varieties do not set seed or set few seeds, and because seedlings grown by sowing take a long time to flower, requiring more than 10 years to bloom, with great variation, nursery producers and home flower enthusiasts rarely use this method. Osmanthus seeds mature around May. After collecting the seeds, sowing can be carried out in two periods: one is to sow immediately after collection, which can reduce the step of seed storage, and by autumn some seeds will germinate and emerge. Its disadvantage is that overwintering management of the seedlings is difficult and they are prone to frost damage. The second is to first stratify the collected seeds in sand, then select the seeds from the sand and sow them the following spring. They germinate and emerge in April. The advantages of this method are that the seedlings grow quickly and seedling-stage management is less difficult. When using sowing to raise seedlings, attention should be paid during the seedling stage to preventing and controlling damping-off of the seedlings, strengthening water and fertilizer management, timely thinning and filling in of seedlings, hoeing and weeding, and doing a good job of shading, cooling, and cold and frost protection.
4. Layering propagation: The time for layering should be chosen before buds sprout in spring. Because osmanthus branches are not easy to bend, ground layering is generally not used; only air layering is used. When using air layering, select a vigorous 2—3-year-old branch on a superior mother plant, ring-bark a 0.3 cm wide strip of bark around the branch, then apply a 100 ppm GGR6 solution or the same dose of naphthalene acetic acid to the ring-barked area, then use plastic film filled with mountain soil, leaf mold, moss, etc. to wrap the wounded part, water thoroughly, and tie and fix the bag opening. Observe frequently and replenish water in time so that the wrapping material is always kept moist. After cultivation through summer and autumn, new roots will grow. In the following spring, cut the rooted branch away from the mother plant, open the wrapping material, transplant it with soil into a pot, water thoroughly, place it in a shady place for care, and after a large number of new shoots sprout, allow it to receive full sunlight.
Cultivation management
One-year-old osmanthus seedlings raised through sowing, cutting and other means should not be used immediately as greening seedlings because of their poor resistance to drought, cold and barren conditions; they should first be transplanted into nursery fields and continue to be cultivated for 2—5 years, and only after they have grown into medium-sized seedlings should they be transplanted. The key points of cultivation management are briefly introduced as follows:
1. Land preparation: Choose slightly acidic (pH 5.0—6.5) sandy loam soil with sufficient light, deep soil layers, rich humus, strong permeability and convenient drainage and irrigation as the cultivation nursery field. In the autumn and winter of the year before transplanting, first plow the entire nursery field once, and dig holes according to a spacing of 1 m x 1.5 m (after 2 years, when they have grown thicker and taller, remove every other plant so that the row and plant spacing becomes 2 m x 1.5 m), with planting holes of 0.4 m x 0.4 m x 0.4 m. Apply 2—3 kg of decomposed, mild farmyard manure (pig manure, cow dung) and 0.5 kg of phosphate fertilizer per hole as base fertilizer. Mix the base fertilizer evenly with the surface loam and fill it into the holes. After the fertilizer is eroded and fermented by winter snow and spring rain, it is easily absorbed by the seedlings.
2. Transplanting: Transplanting is best done when the sap has not yet begun to flow or has just begun to flow, generally from early February to early March. When taking up seedlings, keep as many roots as possible and damage as few roots as possible. After taking up the seedlings, plant them as soon as possible; if seedlings need to be transferred from other places, pay attention to moisture retention to prevent the seedlings from dehydrating. After planting, compact the soil and water thoroughly once so that the root system of the seedlings is in close contact with the soil.
3. Water and fertilizer management: After transplanting, if heavy rain causes water accumulation in the nursery field, dig ditches to drain it. In case of drought, water to resist it. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer, fertilizer should also be applied 3 times each year, namely: in late March, apply 0.1—0.3 kg of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer per plant to promote height growth and the production of many tender shoots; in July, apply 0.1—0.3 kg of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer per plant to improve its drought resistance; in October, apply 2—3 kg of organic fertilizer (such as farmyard manure) per plant to improve its cold resistance and prepare for overwintering.
4. Pruning and shaping: Osmanthus has strong sprouting ability and the characteristic of naturally forming thickets. It sends out shoots twice each year in spring and autumn. If it is not pruned and buds are not wiped in time, it is difficult to cultivate tall plants, and it easily forms a phenomenon of dense upper branches and sparse lower branches, strong at the top and weak at the bottom. During pruning, in addition to short-cutting when the tree vigor and branch vigor are poor, generally thinning is the main method, only appropriately thinning overly dense outer branches, and cutting out water sprouts and diseased and pest-infested branches, so as to improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the plant. Promptly wipe out sprouting branches emerging from the base of the trunk to avoid consuming nutrients within the tree and disrupting the tree shape.
5. Loosening soil and weeding: In spring and autumn, carry out one intertillage each in combination with fertilization to improve soil structure. Before overwintering, mound up the base once and whitewash the trunk once, which can enhance cold resistance. Weed 2—3 times each year to prevent weeds from competing with the seedlings for water, fertilizer and light.
6. Pest and disease control: Osmanthus has relatively few pests and diseases, mainly including anthracnose, leaf spot, red spider mite and oyster-shell scale, etc., which can be controlled with agents such as Bordeaux mixture, lime sulfur mixture, Tuzet, thiophanate-methyl, dichlorvos and dicofol.
Key points for transplanting large osmanthus trees
1. Transplanting time: Mid-January to early February is best. At this time the tree is in a dormant state, and not long after transplanting its activity becomes stronger, making it easy to survive. Avoid transplanting in summer.
2. Branch cutting: This serves to reduce nutrient consumption within the tree and water transpiration. The amount of branch cutting depends on the age of the tree and the strength of its growth vigor. Old trees of over a hundred years should have few or no branches retained because of weak growth vigor. Those with strong growth vigor and younger trees can retain appropriately more branches. When cutting branches, first remove diseased and pest-infested branches, water sprouts and crossing branches. Afterward, apply petroleum jelly or Bordeaux mixture to the wounds to avoid pest and disease damage and rain erosion.
3. Root cutting: To improve the survival rate of transplanting large osmanthus trees, in the spring 1—2 years before transplanting, cut 1/2 of the roots respectively, with the cut point at a distance from the trunk of 2—3 times the trunk diameter, then apply a 50 to 100 ppm GGR6 solution or 0.1% indole acetic acid solution to the cut roots, cover with soil and water thoroughly, and let them grow new roots.
4. Taking up the root ball: Determine the size of the soil ball for digging, generally 4—6 times the ground diameter of the trunk. If the ground diameter is really too thick to transport, it must not be less than 3 times. While digging, wrap the soil ball with wet straw curtains and straw ropes to prevent it from falling apart. Saw off the large roots of the tree with a saw, and apply GGR6 and other rooting powders to the cut surfaces. After digging, wrap and tie it firmly with wet straw curtains and straw ropes, with the straw ropes tied up to 2.5 m high on the trunk.
5. Transportation: During transportation, load, place and unload gently. When loading the truck, fix the large tree well and use cushioning materials between them to prevent the tree from colliding, so as not to injure the bark or scatter the soil ball. Pay attention to moisture retention along the way.
6. Planting: One month before planting, first dig the planting hole, with the hole size 1.5—2 times that of the soil ball, then fill the hole with mycorrhizal soil, and mix in 5—10 kg of decomposed, mild farmyard manure and 2 kg of quick-acting phosphate fertilizer, and irrigate for later use. When planting, use a crane to lower the large tree gently into the planting hole, use scissors to cut open the packaging straw curtains and straw ropes, then backfill with stable soil, tread it firm and water thoroughly.
7. Care and management
① Erecting fixing supports: Erect a tripod around the main trunk of the large tree to prevent the large tree from swaying due to collisions by people and livestock or strong winds.
② Erecting a shade shed: After April, erect a shade shed on three sides of the large tree (except the northwest side) to prevent direct sunlight from scorching the bark and to reduce water transpiration; it can be removed in October when the weather turns cool.
③ Watering: A large tree that has just been planted has damaged roots and weak water absorption, so the amount of watering should not be too much, to avoid root mold and rot. But it also should not be too little, otherwise the tree body will lose water and die.
④ Infusion: Infusion can meet the tree's demand for water and nutrients and can greatly increase the transplant survival rate. Infusion is generally carried out from April to September. Before infusion, first use a woodworking drill to drill 3—5 infusion holes at the base of the large tree at a 45-degree angle from top to bottom, deep to the pith. Then prepare the medicinal liquid, made by dissolving 0.1 g of ABT6 rooting powder and 0.5 g of monopotassium phosphate per liter of water. Hang the bottle containing the medicinal liquid at a high place, insert the trunk syringe into the infusion hole, open the infusion switch, and the liquid can be infused into the tree body. After the medicinal liquid is infused, pull out the needle and plug the infusion hole with a cotton ball. When infusion is needed again next time, take out the cotton ball and infusion can proceed. The number of infusions and the interval time depend on the degree of drought, the temperature and the water demand of the plant. After the plant has completely passed the dangerous period, seal the infusion holes well with Bordeaux mixture.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the essence of the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
In the process of growing flowers, watering is absolutely crucial; treating and caring for flowers well, watering is the foundation. In the process of planting flowers and plants, watering is a very important issue and the key to the success or failure and quality of the entire cultivation.As the saying goes, water is the source of life, and no flower or tree can do without water. Based on the author's many years of experience and lessons in growing flowers and plants, and in combination with several misunderstandings that are currently easy to fall into in home flower growing, here I discuss with new and old flower friends the knowledge about watering flowers.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
First, watering should be determined according to different situations such as the type of flower, the state of the plant and the season. Watering for home flower growing, like any other work, requires no carelessness if one wants to grow flowers and plants well; one must respect the laws of plant growth, observe carefully and frequently, and constantly think things through with care, so as to cultivate robust flowers and trees.1、Flower type: Different flowers have different water requirements. For example, aquatic plants cannot do without water for even a moment, succulents actually benefit from being watered once a week, and most foliage plants need the soil kept in a slightly moist state for long periods.
2、Plant state: Usually smaller plants or newly propagated plants are not drought-tolerant; larger plants or plants that have already taken shape are more drought-tolerant.
3、Cultivation location: Flowers placed in the open air need more water, while flowers placed in a greenhouse need less water.
4、Seasonal changes: Summer is dry and hot, so flowers need more water; winter has low temperatures, flowers grow slowly and transpiration is small, so watering should be less. In autumn and winter, as the temperature drops, many cold-sensitive flowers need to be brought indoors to avoid the cold. However, due to improper watering, flowers may either drop their leaves, grow excessively, or even die. Therefore, the first thing to note is the watering time; it is best to water on a clear morning and to water as little as possible in the evening. In addition, attention should be paid to the principle of watering more for large plants and watering frequently for small pots. Furthermore, after flowers are brought indoors, be sure to wait until the potting soil is dry before watering; even for flowers that like moist soil, such as calla lily and four-season begonia, water only after the surface of the potting soil is dry. For those flowers that like a dry environment, such as tiger's paw and cactus ball, be sure to wait until the potting soil is air-dried from top to bottom before watering.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
Second, scientific watering is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. In specific operation, attention should be paid to the following "five looks":
1、Look at water quality: The water needed by flowers and trees is best unpolluted natural precipitation. Rainwater and snow water are the first choice for watering flowers. The tap water used daily has purifying agents added during the purification process, so it is not suitable for watering flowers directly; it is best to store it for one or two days so that the chlorine in the water volatilizes before use. Or put a piece of vitamin C in a basin of tap water, which can also eliminate the chlorine in a short time. Water used to boil eggs, tea water, fermented rice-washing water, old water changed out from fish tanks, as well as beer and sugar water, etc., all contain rich nutrients suitable for the growth of flowers and trees and are very good water for watering flowers. In recent years, magnetized water and laser water have also become very good water for watering flowers.2、Look at water temperature: The closer the water temperature is to the soil temperature, the better. When the difference between soil temperature and water temperature is large, do not water the flowers, so as to avoid cold water damaging the root system. The most practical method is to store some reserve water in a watering basin or shallow water vat near the potted flowers, which helps naturally regulate the difference in water temperature. Under normal circumstances, the difference between water temperature and soil temperature should be kept within 5°C, so that root damage will not occur.
3、Look at time: The temperature differs throughout the four seasons, and the amount of water used when watering flowers should also differ. In early spring when it is still cold but warming, the weather is changeable; at this time potted flowers begin to sprout and take root, need a lot of water, and the potting soil should be kept moist. In summer, with high temperatures and dryness and rapid evaporation, watering should be doubled. In autumn, watering should be appropriately reduced. In winter, most flowers and trees are in a dormant state, so it is enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
4、Look at the flower pot: The principle of watering potted flowers should also be determined by the size, depth and material of the flower pot. Small pots are shallow, so watering should be little but frequent; clay pots have good water permeability and the potting soil dries easily, so water frequently; stone pots and glazed pots do not easily permeate water, so watering should not be too frequent, because long-term water accumulation will cause the flowers to rot their roots.
5、Look at the flowers and trees: Different flowers have different water requirements, so watering should vary with the flower. Common cactus types and flowers such as aloe and sedum have underdeveloped root systems and should be watered less. Some flowers and trees have a dense layer of fine hairs on their leaves, such as begonia, gloxinia and calceolaria; it is not suitable to spray water on the leaf surface, otherwise the water is difficult to evaporate and they easily become moldy and sick. There are also many flowers with small leaves and slow water evaporation that can bloom more only with less watering, such as crape myrtle, orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) and Sageretia thea. In addition, flowers and trees should be watered more during the peak growth period and the bud stage, and watered less during the flowering period. Newly pruned flowers should be watered less, otherwise the branches and leaves will grow in vain and affect the shape.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
Third, like any crop, flowers are extremely sensitive to water. Water is the life of flowers, and also the illness of flowers.
One,distinguish different flowers and master the watering principles. For hygrophilous flowers, such as calamus, monstera and calla lily, since they can grow well only in a humid environment, the watering principle should be "better wet than dry"; for drought-tolerant flowers, such as cactus, since their stems and leaves can store a large amount of water and they have strong drought tolerance and avoid waterlogging, the watering principle should be "better dry than wet"; for semi-drought-tolerant flowers, such as camellia and rhododendron, since their leaves are waxy or have large amounts of fine hairs and are relatively drought-tolerant, the watering principle should be "water thoroughly when dry"; for mesophytic flowers, such as Chinese rose and pomegranate, since soil that is too dry or too wet will cause poor growth, the watering principle should be "water when dry, stop when wet"; for aquatic flowers, such as lotus and water lily, since they cannot live away from water, the watering principle is "a continuous supply".Two,adapt measures to the flower and the time and determine the amount of watering. For flowers at the seedling stage and fruiting stage, watering should be controlled, and more water should be given during vigorous growth and the flowering period. In summer, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased and the frequency of watering increased. In winter, watering should be reduced, or no watering until dry. Large flower pots should be watered appropriately more, and small flower pots less. During continuous sunny and dry weather, water more; during continuous rainy weather, do not water, and also pay attention to draining accumulated water from the pots. In high-temperature seasons, water in the morning and evening; in winter, water around noon.
Three,improve watering quality and clarify the watering location. For the water quality used for potted flowers, first, do not use sewage from ponds, weirs and ditches that pollutes the flower seedlings; second, do not directly use tap water of the same day, to prevent excessive chloride ions from causing poisoning; tap water should be stored in a vat or bucket for 2-3 days before use for better results; third, avoid using hard water with high salt content to water flowers, and it is advisable to use soft water with low salt content to water flowers; fourth, advocate storing and using natural rainwater to water flowers. Generally, flowers should be watered at the roots, and foliage plants can be sprayed on the leaf surface, but flowering plants should not be sprayed on the leaf surface, such as cyclamen and clivia. Especially around noon, do not use cold water to water flowers, so as to avoid a strong temperature contrast causing physiological imbalance and causing the plant to wilt immediately.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
(1) Mistaken ideas about watering flowers
One: In daily life, people often overindulge particularly precious flowers and trees they like, fearing they will not grow well or even dry out and die, and therefore constantly water them, resulting in the roots of the plant not being able to breathe, affecting respiration, and finally the root system rotting and the plant dying.Two: When watering flowers and trees, it is like a dragonfly skimming the water; although watering is frequent, it is often "half-way watering", with the result that the soil is often wet on top and dry below, wet on the surface and dry inside, and in fact the root system of the plant cannot get much water at all. There are also those who, when watering, only spray water on the leaves and do not water the potting soil, with the same result. Three: When watering a "dry pot", seeing water come out of the bottom of the pot is taken to mean it has been watered thoroughly; in fact, the soil in the pot remains wet around the edges and dry in the middle for a long time, forming a "hollow radish", and the root system of the flowers and trees does not absorb water evenly.
Four: For potted flowers and trees, people often look at them many times and water them many times; when they are free or forget to look, they water less or not at all, all depending on personal mood, so that the flowers and trees either dry out or rot their roots due to being too wet.
Five: Without considering the ecological habits of the flowers and trees, climate change, flower pot size, plant condition and placement location (strong or weak light, good or poor ventilation, etc.), they follow a "routine" and regularly water everything uniformly, treating all equally.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
(2) Precautions for watering
In fact, watering flowers and trees is a relatively complex body of knowledge, and one must treat them differently according to natural objective conditions and the objective needs of the plant. To carry out correct watering, one should generally also try to do the following:First look: Look at whether the potting soil is dry or wet, look at whether the soil color is dark or light, and look at whether the branches and leaves are upright or wilting.
Second feel: Feel the softness or hardness of the soil, and feel the looseness or firmness of the soil.
Third listen: Use a finger to tap or knock the pot body, and listen to whether the sound is crisp or dull.
Fourth achieve: Do not water when dry, and water thoroughly when watering (the entire pot of soil must be watered wet); at the same time, achieve alternating dry and wet, dry and wet periods, and absolutely avoid water accumulating at the bottom of the pot.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
(3) Notes on daily flower watering
Many flower friends have the good habit of saving water and often use leftover water from washing dishes or vegetables to water flowers. Little do they know that these "good habits" of theirs will cause fatal harm to flowers and plants. Although flowers and plants are plants, they also have their own "high standards" and requirements for the environment, and when slightly dissatisfied, they will also throw a tantrum for you to see.So, what issues should we pay special attention to when watering?
First, do not use water containing oil stains or soap powder and the like to water flowers. These substances have a destructive effect on the soil, change the pH of the potting soil, and in severe cases can also cause the flowers and plants to die. By comparison, rice-washing water or old water changed out from a fish tank has a certain fertility and is much better than tap water; this water can absolutely be used.
Second, avoid watering at noon in midsummer. At this time, because the temperature is relatively high and the pores of the plant roots are open, suddenly watering can easily give the flowers and plants a "cold".
Third, for flowers with hairs on the leaf surface, do not use a spray bottle to water. After water is sprayed on the leaf surface, it is not easy to evaporate and is very easy to rot, so we had better not use a spray bottle to water, and should adopt irrigation measures instead.
Fourth, if the flowers are in full bloom, it is not suitable to spray water too much. Otherwise it will cause the petals to rot. If you want the flowers and plants to set seed, watering during the flowering period will also affect plant fertilization, thereby reducing the fruiting rate.
Fifth, absolutely avoid "half-waist watering". "Half-waist watering" means the amount of water is only enough to moisten the surface soil, while the lower soil is dry. Over time, a hard, compacted layer will form at the boundary between dry and wet in the soil, making it difficult for the plant's root system to penetrate downward. Therefore, when watering, we must grasp the principle of "water thoroughly when watering". At the same time, along with watering, we should also develop the good habit of loosening the soil: loosening the soil should be done after watering, when the potting soil is half dry, with the depth based on seeing the roots; cutting some surface roots is also harmless, and instead helps promote new roots.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
(4) Differences in application scenarios for watering flowers
One. Precautions for watering flowers grown on a balconyWhen growing flowers in pots on a balcony, because there is no ground moisture, they dry out more easily than flowers planted in the ground. Beginners at growing flowers often worry that the pots lack water, and therefore, regardless of whether the pots are dry or wet and without looking at whether the weather is clear or rainy, they just water every day, with the result that they often water the flowers to death. Therefore, beginners at growing flowers must learn the technique of watering.
(1)Pay attention to water quality: In the city, only tap water can be used. To water flowers with tap water, it is best to first put the water into a bucket or tank and store it for 1-2 days before watering, because tap water contains bleaching powder and a chlorine component, and after storage it is relatively safe. If rainwater can be collected on rainy days and used to water flowers, then the water quality is better than tap water.
(2)Pay attention to water temperature: When watering, pay attention to the water temperature, which should be roughly the same as the temperature of the potting soil. If watering in summer, at least let the tap water run out and sit for a few hours, and use it after the water temperature is close to the air temperature; otherwise, using very cold water to suddenly water flowers at a relatively high temperature will cause harm to them, and even less should well water be taken out and used immediately to water flowers, because the temperature of well water is relatively low.
(3)Pay attention to the amount of watering: The amount of watering should be determined according to the habits of the flowers, the air temperature and dryness, the dryness or wetness of the potting soil, the growth stage the flowers are in and many other conditions. Moisture-loving flowers can be watered more, drought-loving flowers should be watered less; herbaceous flowers should be watered more, woody flowers should be watered less; flowers with large, soft leaves should be watered more, flowers with small seedlings in large pots should be watered less; flowers placed on the balcony should be watered more, flowers placed indoors should be watered less. When the climate is hot, water more; when the climate is cool, water less; in dry weather, water more; on cloudy days, water less; on rainy days, do not water. When flowers are budding, water more; during full bloom, water less; clay pots and tile pots should be watered more, porcelain pots, glazed pots and plastic pots should be watered less. In short, in general it is safer for the water in a flower pot to be slightly less than too much.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering knowledge for growing flowers
Two. Watering flowers in the care of potted flowersAs the flower proverb says: "Whether it lives or not depends on water; whether it grows or not depends on fertilizer." Watering is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Many beginners at growing flowers are mostly confused by the question of how much to water: "The book says it should not be too much or too little, so what counts as neither too much nor too little?" In fact, how much to water first depends on what kind of flower is being grown, and whether this flower likes dry conditions, likes wet conditions, or is semi-dry. Never treat all flowers the same; if there are 10 pots of flowers at home, do not water them all together or let them dry out all together. Water is the source of plant life, but an overly moist soil environment will prevent the root system of some drought-loving flowers from breathing, and then they will rot and die; if the roots die, of course the flowers cannot live either. Therefore, if you want to grow flowers well, the first step is to understand clearly the water requirements of each kind of flower. First you must keep it alive, and only then can you talk about flowering.
Potted flowers are limited by specific environmental conditions, and watering operations are not only troublesome but also the key to success or failure. To water just right, you must first understand the natural habits of different varieties of flowers and how much water they need at each stage of growth and development; you should also look at whether the weather is cloudy or clear, the temperature and humidity levels, the type of flower pot, the size of the plant and the texture of the potting soil.
Watering potted flowers generally involves the following situations and methods:
(1)Watering: In spring, summer and autumn, water before 10 a.m., and in winter water at 2 p.m. Ensure that the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, slightly higher in winter and slightly lower in summer. But the difference between water and soil temperature should not exceed about 5°C. The amount of watering should be based on the degree of uniform moisture from the pot surface to the bottom of the pot. Watering should avoid "cutting across the waist" (wet on top, dry below) and "pocketed water" (water accumulating at the bottom of the pot); also avoid soil and fertilizer loss through the pot holes, causing hollows in the center of the pot and seriously affecting the growth and development of potted flowers. When watering, note that drought-loving flowers can have their watering amount controlled, keeping the potting soil slightly moist, with the surface soil showing a whitish color but not completely dried out. Moisture-loving flowers should keep the potting soil moist at all times, with no whitish color on the surface soil, but there must not be water accumulation or prolonged wetness.
(2)Supplementary watering: In dry periods, at 15:00-16:00, check whether the potting soil is dry or wet and supplement with an appropriate amount of water as needed, keeping the potting soil moist as the standard. When the weather suddenly changes and water is needed under special circumstances, watering is not limited by time or frequency.
(3)Heavy watering: When potted flowers are in a period of vigorous growth, to encourage shoot growth, plant development, flower forcing and fruit enlargement, the amount of water can be increased along with topdressing, keeping the surface soil from showing white patches and the leaves from wilting.
(4)Restricted watering: When potted flowers are dormant or in low-temperature seasons, or to harden seedlings, promote bud formation, prevent leggy growth, and correct the conditions of yellow leaves and bud drop caused by excessive water, the amount of water should be appropriately controlled, keeping the potting soil merely moist, combined with loosening the soil to conserve moisture.
(5)Misting: In dry spring and autumn seasons, in addition to normal watering and restricted watering, water should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces and around the flower-growing area to increase environmental humidity, prevent young leaves from scorching and flowers from fading prematurely, and keep the plants fresh. This is especially important for southern flowers, which need even more attention to environmental moisture. After summer rain, when the sky suddenly clears or when the evening is muggy, water should be sprayed to lower the temperature and prevent disease; whenever misting, the leaf surfaces should be sprayed clean to prevent residual water droplets and dust on the leaves from congealing into stains that are difficult to remove. Watering potted flowers is routine work; the above methods should be applied flexibly, step by step, and persistently.
1. Flowers that should not be watered too much in pots
Cacti and succulents are drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging, such as the golden barrel cactus, the prickly pear cactus, aloe, the orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), the mother of thousands (Kalanchoe), and so on. If the potting soil stays wet for a long time or is drenched by rain, they are most prone to leaf rot and root rot. For fleshy-rooted and bulbous flowers such as orchids, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, clivias, dahlias, gloxinias, spider plants (Reineckea), cyclamens, and bird-of-paradise (Strelitzia), death caused by waterlogging is a major cause.
Some woody flowers are also very afraid of waterlogging, such as wintersweet (plum blossom), longevity peach, osmanthus, azaleas, wintersweet (Chimonanthus), banana shrub (Michelia), bougainvillea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), golden-edged daphne, and begonias. If waterlogged for 3-5 days, they will be at death's door and difficult to save.
Some flowers that by habit prefer moisture are also afraid of waterlogging, such as chrysanthemums, jasmine, Aglaia (milan), and asparagus fern. Because the potting soil is too wet or has been drenched by rain for a long time, the roots suffocate and die. To prevent flowers and trees from suffering waterlogging damage, take the following measures:
(1) For ground-planted flowers and trees that fear waterlogging, choose a good site: plant them in high, dry places, and never plant them in low-lying areas.
(2) For ground-planted flowers and trees at risk of waterlogging, dig drainage ditches before the rainy season arrives, and mound soil around the plant roots to raise them. For precious flowering trees, after mounding the soil, it is best to enclose them with plastic sheeting.
(3) During the plum rain season, move potted flowers to a rain-sheltered place as early as possible. If there are too many potted flowers to move in time, lay them on their sides on the spot to prevent water accumulation.
(4) For potted flowers and trees, enlarge the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot beforehand. Cover the holes with a piece of window screen, then add a layer of jujube-sized bricks, charcoal cinders, or charcoal pieces so that excess water drains out at any time. For ground-planted flowers and trees that fear waterlogging, before planting, dig deep tree pits and spread a thicker layer of gravel or charcoal cinders at the bottom of the pit to facilitate water seepage.
(5) When watering flowers and trees that fear waterlogging, be sure to follow the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet, and as much as possible use the method of more spraying and less drenching. When watering, prevent both "waist water" (water that only reaches halfway down) and water accumulation in the pot.
(6) For flowers and trees that have already suffered waterlogging damage, promptly knock out the wet root ball, remove the wet mud, place the plant in a cool, ventilated spot, and spray the branches and leaves appropriately with water. Once the plant regains vigor, replace the soil and repot it.
(Note) Waterlogging-tolerant flowers and trees include: Caladium, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), saxifrage, banyan tree, palm grass (Rhapis), Cordyline, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, calla lily, trailing bromeliads, variegated spiderwort (Tradescantia), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), and various ferns, etc.
2. Points to note when watering potted plants in summer
In summer, high temperatures and strong sunlight accelerate the transpiration rate of potted flowers, making it very easy for the potting soil to become dry. Therefore, watering potted flowers in summer is very important. Specifically, note the following points.
At noon in summer, the potting soil temperature is relatively high, and the roots absorb water quickly. If cold water is poured at this time, the potting soil temperature will drop abruptly, affecting the normal function of the plant's root system. This makes it difficult for the roots to absorb water, disrupts the balance of the plant's water metabolism, causes the plant to wilt, and affects growth. Therefore, it is best to water potted flowers in summer in the morning or evening.
In summer, the respiration of potted flowers is vigorous, requiring good aeration in the potting soil. Too much watering will cause poor aeration in the potting soil, affecting the normal physiological activities of the roots, and in severe cases can lead to root rot. Therefore, generally do not water when the potting soil is not dry; when dry, water thoroughly, and never water only to half the height of the pot. In summer, potting soil often cracks due to excessive dryness, so watering cannot be done all at once. Otherwise, water will leak straight through the cracks to the bottom of the pot, while most of the potting soil remains very dry, and the next day the plant will still wilt from lack of water. Generally, after the first watering, wait a moment, and after the soil cracks close, water again. When a potted flower wilts, its cells shrink from water loss. Watering immediately will cause the cell walls to absorb water quickly and expand outward. However, the cell protoplasm absorbs water more slowly and cannot expand correspondingly, so it is torn apart by the pulling force. The destruction of a large amount of cell protoplasm has a great impact on the plant and may even cause its death. A more reasonable approach is: first move the wilted potted flower to a wind-sheltered, shady place, spray a small amount of water on the leaf surfaces and potting soil, and after the plant has somewhat recovered, water thoroughly.
3. What harm does insufficient watering do to flowers?
Because potted flowers have little soil and do not store much water, during the growing season they need frequent replenishment of water to ensure normal growth. If the water supply is insufficient, the leaves and petioles will shrivel and droop, showing wilting. If flowers remain in this state of insufficient water supply and leaf wilting for a long time, the older leaves and the lower leaves of the plant will gradually turn yellow and dry up. Most herbaceous flowers, if kept in a drought state for a long time, will become stunted, lose their fresh green luster, and even die entirely. Some flower growers, fearing overwatering, give "half water" (waist water) each time, that is, the amount of water given only moistens the surface soil while the lower soil remains dry. This watering method likewise affects the development of the flower's root system and also produces the above adverse phenomena. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of "water when dry, withhold when wet, and water thoroughly when watering."
4. Reasonable watering
Watering is routine management work in the cultivation of foliage plants, and it is also an important link directly related to whether foliage plants grow well. It cannot be done haphazardly. Because different species of foliage plants and different stages of their growth and development have different water requirements, timely and appropriate watering and balanced water supply are the keys to good watering. Below, the watering measures for annual and biennial herbaceous foliage plants are introduced in detail.
a. Watering methods
(1)Surface irrigation: Watering with a rubber hose or plastic hose. Suitable for flower beds, flower borders, and foliage plants grown in raised beds.
(2)Watering can irrigation: This is a watering method specially used for potted foliage plants. Fitting the watering can with a matching fine-hole nozzle also makes it an ideal tool for watering propagation beds and seedling beds. This is because the water column it sprays is dispersed and fine, and will not scatter seeds or knock over seedlings.
(3)Drip irrigation: This is a relatively advanced irrigation method that slowly applies water to the soil layer of the plant roots through drip irrigation facilities. It has many advantages such as saving water, saving labor, balanced water supply, and not damaging soil structure, and is worth vigorously promoting and applying in production.
(4)Sub-irrigation: Place the flower pot into a shallow trough or shallow basin filled with water, allowing water to seep into the potting soil from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. But note that the water outside the pot should only reach 1/2 to 1/3 of the pot's height. Once the surface layer of the potting soil is moist, take it out immediately. Do not soak for a long time, to prevent seeds from floating up and being exposed above the soil surface, or the soil layer from loosening and causing seeds to sink and be buried too deep, affecting the seed germination rate. The sub-irrigation method is mainly used for watering pot-sown seedlings.
b. Watering time
In spring and autumn, water in the morning or afternoon. In summer, water in the cool morning and evening, while in winter, water around noon when the weather is warm. When choosing the watering time, try to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature, with a temperature difference of no more than 5°C, to prevent sudden changes in soil temperature caused by watering from damaging the root system and affecting its absorption function.
c. Watering amount
The frequency and amount of watering mainly depend on seasonal changes, weather conditions, and plant growth conditions. In spring and autumn, plants grow rapidly and need a lot of water, but the temperature is not very high. The amount of water lost through dispersal is relatively small, so watering should be appropriate, neither too much nor too little. Generally, watering once a day is sufficient. In summer, light is strong, temperature is high, and water evaporation is large, so water frequently; generally water once in the morning and once in the evening. In winter, the temperature is low. For herbaceous foliage plants in the open field, growth slows and water requirement decreases, so watering once every 2-3 days is sufficient. However, for greenhouse herbaceous foliage plants, this is precisely the peak growing season, so watering should be strengthened. When watering specifically, it is also necessary to adapt flexibly to the daily weather conditions. If it is sunny or windy, water disperses quickly, so the amount of watering should be increased; if it is cloudy, the amount of watering should be reduced.
Before and after seed germination, watering should be moderate, following the principle of small amounts and frequent applications. Entering the seedling growth stage, the amount of watering should be moderately reduced, intentionally withholding water (restricted watering) to harden the seedlings, which is beneficial for bud formation and preventing leggy growth. During the vigorous growth period of mature seedlings and the full flowering period, water sufficiently to meet the needs of vigorous plant metabolism, but for those types prone to flower and fruit drop, the amount of watering should be controlled and not too much. During seed formation, appropriately reducing watering is beneficial for seed maturation.
d. Experience in watering
To achieve timely and appropriate watering, in addition to the above basic requirements for watering, people have also summarized a set of practical experience over long-term actual work. Usually, the methods of listening to the sound, looking at the color, and feeling the soil are used to judge whether watering is needed. Listening to the sound means tapping the flower pot lightly with a finger. If it produces a dull, muddy sound, the soil is moist and does not need watering. Looking at the color means that when the potting soil appears grayish-white, the soil is already dry and needs watering. If the soil is dark in color, the soil is not dry and does not need watering. Feeling the soil means pinching the soil with your hand. If it forms a clump, the soil is moist and does not need watering; if it crumbles when pinched and cannot form a clump, the soil is dry and needs watering.
In short, watering is a daily task in the cultivation of foliage plants. The principle must be: do not water when wet, water thoroughly when dry, with the degree being that the surface and interior of the soil are uniformly dry or moist. Avoid wet-on-top-dry-below (waist water) or dry-on-top-wet-below (bottom-pooling water).
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to flower watering knowledge
(5) Differences in watering by season
I. How to water flowers in springWatering in spring is the key to growing potted flowers well. Because the spring climate is relatively dry and air humidity is low, if the amount of watering is too little, it will cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, affecting the growth and development of flowers; too much watering will cause bud drop or root rot, and even death.
1. Judging whether potted flowers need watering in spring
If the color of the potting soil surface is brownish-red, pressing the surface with a finger gives a soft, moist feeling, and tapping the pot wall with a finger produces a muddy, dull sound, then the potting soil is moist and does not need watering. If the color of the potting soil surface becomes lighter and whitish, pressing the surface with a finger feels hard, and tapping the pot wall produces a crisp, loud sound, then the potting soil is on the dry side and needs watering.
2. Frequency, timing, and amount of watering potted flowers in spring
After the beginning of spring, temperatures start to rise, flowers enter their growth period, and the amount of watering should gradually increase. Generally, water flowers once every 2-3 days, then gradually increase to once a day as temperatures rise, and by the high-temperature stage in July, water twice a day. The best watering time is between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Different types of flowers have different habits and quite different water requirements. Moisture-loving flowers such as ferns, orchids, and begonias should be watered more; drought-loving flowers such as Crassulaceae, Cactaceae, and Agavaceae should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much.
Different growth and development stages require different amounts of water. Flowers transitioning from dormancy to the growth period should be watered gradually more; flowers in the vigorous growth period should be watered more; before flower bud differentiation, during the seedling hardening stage, and before repotting, water should be withheld; before flowering and during the fruiting stage, water less; during full bloom, water appropriately; for newly potted or newly repotted flowers, the first watering must be thorough.
The nature of the growing medium differs, and water-holding capacity varies greatly, so the amount of watering should also differ. Sandy, loose soil has poor water-holding capacity and should be watered more; heavy clay soil has strong water-holding capacity and should be watered less.
The amount of watering also depends on the size and material of the flower pot. Small pots dry out quickly, so watering frequency should be increased, while large pots are the opposite. Clay pots are loose in texture and have good permeability, and the water lost through evaporation from the pot walls is even more than the water consumed by the flowers, so more watering is needed; ceramic pots, glazed pots, and purple clay pots are fine and dense in texture, with poor permeability and aeration, so less watering is needed; plastic pots are impermeable to water and air, so even less watering is needed.
3. Water quality for watering flowers in spring
Rainwater, pond water, and river water are most suitable. Generally, tap water can also be used for flowers, but it is best to store tap water for 1-2 days before use.
4. Watering methods in spring
Soaking method: Soak the flower pot in a basin of water, letting water seep into the potting soil through the drainage hole at the bottom until the entire potting soil is soaked through. This method is mostly used for newly potted flowers and for pot-sowing seedlings, to prevent water poured from above from scattering the potting soil or washing seeds out of place and affecting seedling emergence.
Watering can method: Use a watering can to pour water directly onto the pot surface. This method is commonly used for relatively large flowers and trees.
Watering can sprinkling method: Use a watering can to sprinkle water on the leaf surfaces and pot surface of the plant. This method is commonly used for newly potted seedlings, cuttings, and foliage plants. However, some flowers are particularly sensitive to water. For example, gloxinias, calceolarias, and begonias have relatively thick fuzz on their leaf surfaces, which does not evaporate easily after spraying, making the leaves prone to rot; the leaf buds at the top of cyclamen corms and the flower buds of African daisies rot and wither after touching water, so spraying is not suitable. For flowers in full bloom, excessive spraying is also not suitable, otherwise it easily causes petal mildew or affects fertilization, reducing the seed-setting rate.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to flower watering knowledge
II. How to water flowers in summerAfter the plum rain season, which has abundant rainfall and high humidity suitable for flower growth, ends, hot summer arrives immediately. In a few days (July 13), the dog days (40 days this year), which last a long time and are extremely unfavorable for flower growth, begin immediately. This is a test for flower growers. This year's dog days are especially long. If flowers are not well cared for, they will be listless or even die, and one's good mood will be gone. This is especially true for those kept outdoors in direct sunlight.
Once summer comes, even though one's own care has not changed, the flowers, especially those one particularly cherishes with a story behind them, somehow have yellow leaves, look unsightly, are no longer plump, or the plant has withered. In any case, it is as if they are sick, and one is puzzled, not knowing what to do, and one's own flower-growing experience is no longer enough.
Summer is the season when most potted flowers grow vigorously and evaporation is high, so watering should be appropriately increased. Indoor flowers should be watered once every 2-3 days, while outdoor ones should be watered once a day. The amount of watering should be differentiated according to different varieties of flowers. Generally, herbaceous flowers need more water than woody flowers and should be watered more. Sun-loving plants should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight and watered sufficiently, with no water accumulation in the pot; semi-shade-loving plants such as camellias and azaleas should be placed in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny, well-ventilated place; foliage plants should be shaded. For flowers entering a slow-growth or semi-dormant state, such as Christmas cacti and wax begonias, the potting soil should be kept on the dry side, and flowering flowers should also be watered less to avoid knocking off flower buds. In the hot summer, do not fertilize or apply only a light dilute fertilizer solution.In fact, most of these problems are related to the timing and method of watering. Because your watering time and method are wrong, you have damaged the photosynthesis function of the flower leaves.
In our Jiangnan region, the temperature is now around 37 degrees, with intense heat overhead, which is the greatest harm to tender, green flowers. Now every day is clear and boundless, the sun is scorching, which is a test for lush flowers. Below, based on my own meager experience, I will talk about the timing and methods of watering flowers in summer as well as transplanting. As long as you do these things, there should be no problem for flowers to pass through summer safely.
1. Summer watering timeChoose the morning up to 12:30 p.m. According to my experience, watering during this period is no problem. Watering from 12:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. has a relatively large impact on flowers. From 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., if the water touches the flower leaves when watering, the damage to the leaves is the greatest. Leaf surfaces protect themselves under the hot sun; if they suddenly encounter cold water, and this happens often, the leaves will develop problems. I will not go into the reasoning. In any case, if you must water in the afternoon, never let the water touch the leaf surfaces (especially when sunlight is still shining on the flowers). The reason afternoon watering is not good is that by the afternoon the soil in the flower pot has already been heated by the sun, and watering easily causes root mildew in some herbaceous plants. As for after what time around noon watering should not be done, you can experiment yourself. Here I am in the central Zhejiang basin, and watering before 1:30 p.m. is not much of a problem. When watering at noon, water as late as possible, because in the afternoon sunlight is strong and flowers need and evaporate more water. If supply and demand are unbalanced, by evening the flowers will have lost too much water and be difficult to recover. The disadvantage of watering in the morning and evening is that the interval is too long, so water supply and demand are unbalanced, and evening watering is unfavorable for flower recovery. The advantage of watering in the morning and at noon is that with morning watering, the flowers already have enough, and noon watering satisfies the flowers' needs for the afternoon's scorching sun and evaporation, which is very beneficial for protecting the flowers.
Some people, because of time, work, or business trips, come home in the afternoon to see the flowers severely short of water, feeling as if they have been sun-dried flat, with stems softened by the sun and leaves curled up. If this happens, the plant is severely short of water and protecting itself. Sudden watering is actually not good; either move it to a shady place or increase the humidity of the flower-growing area. My suggestion is to water after 9 p.m., that is, after you feel the soil in the flower pot or on the ground has completely cooled. After dark, spraying water on the leaf surfaces should not be much of a problem. Also, when watering in the morning, if the sunlight is strong, after 9:30, try not to let the water touch the leaf surfaces either.
2. Summer flower watering methods
Whether you can grow flowers depends on whether you can water. New growers either often forget or are too diligent. In fact, flowers, like people, need to be remembered and cared for. No matter what kind of flower, water only after it has dried out, and water thoroughly when watering. In summer the sunlight is strong and watering is frequent, so the soil in the flower pot easily becomes compacted and very firm. If you water quickly, and many people use a hose to save effort, then in fact most of the flower roots are not reached by the water. In summer, watering should be slow and patient. Loosen the shallow soil often. When watering, water along the flower pot. Watering quickly just rinses the soil surface; you think the surface is wet and the flower has been watered thoroughly, but in fact it has not. If you go slowly, the water will slowly reach the flower roots. Pay special attention: after watering once, wait about ten minutes, and when you see the pot surface is no longer glistening, water again to supplement. This second watering is especially critical; this water is what truly enters the soil, while most of the first watering may have run off. In other seasons, if the soil does not turn white, do not water. Succulent plants should also be watered less in summer, and must not be watered in the afternoon. We know that a watermelon cut open in the afternoon is especially warm, and succulents are similarly hot inside. Once you water, the pores on their surface close. If this happens often, they will often be unable to breathe, staying warm inside, and it would be strange if they did not rot.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to flower watering knowledge
III. How to water flowers in autumn
In autumn, for flowers in a dormant or semi-dormant state, it is still better to control watering and keep the potting soil often on the dry side. For shade-loving or semi-shade-loving flowers, light exposure should be gradually increased as the weather turns cool, and flowers already in bloom should be watered in time. Watering should preferably be 1-2 times a day; at 9-10 a.m. the amount of watering should be sufficient (relatively less for shade-loving plants), and in the evening water an appropriate amount. If the weather is muggy and dry, spray mist on the leaf surfaces morning and evening, and at the same time water and moisten the ground around the flowers.As autumn temperatures drop, daylight shortens, and the temperature difference increases, the growth of all kinds of plants undergoes great changes, and attention must be paid to their respective growth characteristics.
1. For flowers that generally bloom in autumn, winter, and early spring, normal watering can continue; for other flowers, watering can be gradually restricted, following the principle of not watering or watering less when the potting soil is not too dry.
2. For shade-loving flowers and indoor foliage plants, watering must not be too frequent or excessive, to avoid root rot or the occurrence of pests and diseases.
3. For flowers that are difficult to bloom, watering should be controlled, otherwise it will affect flower bud differentiation.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to flower watering knowledge
IV. How to water flowers in winter
"The main reason household flowers have difficulty surviving winter is watering too frequently. Winter flowers need more sun and less water." Because winter temperatures are low, air humidity is high, and plant consumption is low, frequent watering will cause more water accumulation in the soil and lead to root rot. If flowers are placed outdoors, they may also be frostbitten or even frozen to death. The golden barrel cactus is a cactus plant and is itself a drought-tolerant plant, so it should be watered even less or not at all. Other flowers should also be watered once every ten days to half a month, and the amount each time should not be much. In winter, flowers should often be given sunlight. On clear days, the flower pots can be moved outside, and at night moved back indoors.As the weather gradually turns cold, most potted flowers are moved indoors for care. Winters in the north are long, cold, and dry, making plants especially prone to disease and damage. To help plants pass the winter safely, in addition to ensuring sunlight and warmth, watering is also an item requiring special attention.
1. If the potting soil is not dry, do not water. Too much water will inevitably result in root rot.
2. The best time to water in winter is at noon; do not water casually in the evening just because you happen to think of it.
3. The water used for watering flowers must not be tap water taken and used immediately. It should be stored in a vat and used after one or two days of sun exposure. If the water temperature differs too much from the room temperature, it will damage the roots.
(1) Precautions for watering potted flowers in winter
When potted flowers reach winter, most enter the dormant stage, growing slowly, with reduced metabolism and correspondingly reduced water requirements. If watering is not handled well, root frostbite will occur, leading to withering or even death of the upper part of the plant.
In winter, watering is best done around noon when sunlight is relatively good (generally between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.), that is, when the water temperature and air temperature are suitable. If frost damage is caused because the water temperature is too low, it is very difficult to recover. Therefore, in winter, watering requires mastering the timing and watering less. For potted flowers brought into the greenhouse, the amount of watering depends on the temperature in the greenhouse. Potted flowers in a low-temperature greenhouse should be watered once every 4-5 days; potted flowers in a medium-temperature greenhouse and a high-temperature greenhouse should generally be watered once every 1-2 days; in places with sufficient sunlight and higher temperatures, the amount of watering should be greater.
Because greenhouses have heating equipment, the air easily becomes dry. Therefore, for flowers that like high temperatures and moisture, in addition to watering, spraying is also needed to increase air humidity. If strong winds howl and cold air invades, flowers placed outdoors need to be kept warm and watered less.
(2) "Three don'ts" and "five dos" for watering flowers in winter
For household flower cultivation, whether flowers can bloom well in winter, protect their leaves well, and ensure safe overwintering, watering is particularly important.
I. "Three don'ts" for watering flowers in winter
1. Never water flowers directly with ice-cold water. Ice-cold water most easily damages flower roots. Fleshy-rooted plants such as sago palms and orchids are most afraid of ice water. In winter, because temperatures are low, the water used for watering flowers should be stored in containers or left to stand. Never water flowers directly with tap water, to prevent excessive temperature differences from damaging the root system. Because temperatures continue to drop at the start of winter, flower metabolism slows or they enter dormancy, so generally potted flowers should have watering strictly controlled. If the potting soil is not too dry, do not water, and especially for shade-tolerant flowers, avoid root rot and leaf drop caused by excessive watering.2. Avoid excessive watering. In winter, water evaporation is small, and in addition, flower plants stagnate in growth under low-temperature conditions, especially with reduced root vigor. Too much water makes root respiration difficult and easily causes root disease, or even root rot and death. Flowers blooming in winter, such as Christmas cacti, clivias, camellias, and cyclamens, can be watered in appropriate amounts, with watering done in small amounts and frequently.
3. Avoid watering with fertilizer water. In winter, flower cultivation generally does not require fertilizer water. For flowers in full bloom, a little thin fertilizer water is enough; frequent application of thin fertilizer is safe, but heavy fertilizer water will cause bud drop and flower fading.
II. "Five dos" for watering flowers in winter
1. Water flowers with warm water or cool boiled water. In winter, when the weather is cold and the water is chilly, it is advisable to water flowers with warm water. The ice-cold water scooped from outdoors should be mixed with some hot water until it feels slightly warm to the touch (around 35°C, not too hot) before pouring into the flower pot; or place cold water indoors and water when it is close to room temperature. In winter, if cool boiled water is used to water flowers and trees, it can make the leaves lush and the flowers bright, and can promote earlier blooming. Generally, the best time to water flowers and trees in winter is around noon.
2. Spray and wash leaf surfaces. For some shade-loving, moisture-loving evergreen flowers, such as asparagus fern, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron (spring feather), camellias, and Rohdea (evergreen) types, water close to room temperature should often be used to spray and wash the leaf surfaces, cleaning off dust to facilitate photosynthesis.
3. Watering flowers with leftover tea. Using leftover tea to water flowers can both maintain the moisture of the soil of household potted flowers and add nutrients such as nitrogen to the flowers and trees. However, it should be done according to the moisture condition of the flower pot, watering regularly and in moderation, and not by pouring leftover tea whenever you have it.
4. Watering flowers with rice-washing water. Frequently using rice-washing water to water flowers such as Aglaia (milan) can make their branches and leaves lush and their flower colors especially bright. However, directly using rice-washing water to water flowers is not good. Over time it will cause the potting soil to become compacted, hindering the respiration of the plant root system, and too much will also burn the plant's root system. Therefore, if rice-washing water is to be used for watering flowers, it must be decomposed and fermented. Fermented rice-washing water is weakly acidic and can neutralize the slightly alkaline nature of tap water. The retted rice-washing water, in addition to containing rich elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, also contains large amounts of trace elements such as iron, magnesium, copper, zinc, and molybdenum. Using it to water flowers and trees that like acidic soil (such as Aglaia, azaleas, jasmine, camellias, osmanthus, etc.) not only promotes robust plant growth and lush branches and leaves, but also extends the flowering period and prevents chlorosis. At the same time, because rice-washing water contains relatively much phosphorus (the main component of rice bran is phosphate fertilizer), it can promote the formation of flower buds, promote flower bud differentiation, and make flowers and trees bloom brightly, with green leaves and abundant fruit.
5. Watering flowers with spoiled milk. After milk spoils, add water and use it to water flowers; it is beneficial to the growth of the flowers. But add more water to make it relatively dilute. Unfermented milk must not be used to water flowers, because it produces a large amount of heat during fermentation, which will cause root rot.