Control methods for corm rot in gladiolus
[Distribution and damage] Corm rot is an important disease of gladiolus, occurring to varying degrees in all regions. It is reported to be fairly common in gladiolus at flower nurseries and among flower growers in the suburbs of Guangzhou, where affected corms, leaves and leaf sheaths rot and die.
[Symptoms] The disease mainly occurs in the lower tissues of the plant. Infected corms develop sunken yellow to dark brown lesions 4-6 mm across, with slightly raised edges, appearing ulcer-like. After the leaf base is affected, a few obvious black spots often appear; infection of the leaf sheath produces dark brown water-soaked streaks; leaves turn yellow and wilt after becoming diseased. In dry conditions, the diseased parts rot and dry up; under moist conditions, the diseased tissue softens and disintegrates, sometimes with bacterial pus oozing out, and finally only the fibers of the vascular bundle tissue remain, at which point the stem is easily broken.
[Pathogen and disease pattern] The pathogen causing gladiolus stem rot is P. marginata (Mcculloch) Stapp of the genus Pseudomonas. The pathogenic bacteria live in the soil attached to diseased corm residues, and infect and spread when conditions are suitable. Some soil-dwelling pests such as weevils, mole crickets and click beetles not only cause wounds on the root system but can also carry the pathogen, invading and expanding the damage. High temperature, high humidity and abundant rain can aggravate the severity of the disease and favor its epidemic and spread. This bacterium can also infect the corms of gladiolus.
[Control methods]
(1) Choose the cultivation site well and strengthen fertilizer and water management. Avoid continuous cropping in affected areas; it is best to disinfect the soil with quicklime or formaldehyde; apply plant ash and phosphate fertilizer as base fertilizer, and drain standing water from the nursery in time.
(2) Corm treatment. Select disease-free corms and plant them after disinfection in a 1000-fold potassium permanganate solution; harvested corms must be strictly selected, and diseased corms discarded.
(3) Remove sources of infection. Diseased plants should be promptly removed and burned, and the nearby soil disinfected.
A complete guide to gladiolus cultivation precautions
Gladiolus cultivation methods and precautions: Gladiolus is also called "Tangchangpu" and "Shiyangjin", of the genus Gladiolus in the family Iridaceae, a perennial herbaceous flower. Its bulb is actually a corm formed by the swelling of the base of the stem, wrapped on the outside by yellow-brown fibers. The plant is 1 m tall, with a stout, upright stem and very stiff leaves shaped like swords, 30-80 cm long. The flower stem grows separately, emerging naturally from the leaf cluster, with 8-20 flowers clustered together in two rows, the corolla swelling into a funnel shape. Gladiolus is now widely cultivated; it likes a climate with ample light, warmth and humidity, fears severe cold and intense heat, and grows best in well-drained sandy soil. Below is a detailed introduction to how to grow gladiolus:
1. Environmental requirements for growing gladiolus Temperature requirements: The minimum temperature for gladiolus growth is 3°C. When the temperature is below 3°C, the plant's growth and development will be inhibited, shown by the cessation of plant growth and flower bud differentiation, and developing flower buds also stop growing. The optimum temperature for gladiolus growth is 20-25°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. Within this optimum temperature range, the stem buds of gladiolus begin to grow and the root system sprouts, which is very favorable for flower bud development. Light requirements: Gladiolus is a long-day plant and needs relatively long light during its growth. Insufficient light can lead to... >>More
2. Fertilizer and water management for growing gladiolus After the gladiolus corm is planted, the sprouting of the fibrous roots and the emergence of the main bud require sufficient moisture in the soil around the corm, so the soil should preferably be watered before planting. After planting, if the soil is too dry, water should be added immediately, and sometimes mulching is also needed to maintain soil moisture. Insufficient soil moisture will greatly delay corm sprouting and seriously affect the emergence rate. After two leaves have grown, apply decomposed organic fertilizer once about every 15 days to promote stem and leaf growth. When the stems and leaves are elongating and flower buds are forming, avoid applying... >>More
3. Pot cultivation and care for growing gladiolus (1) Pot selection: Generally use unglazed clay pots or plastic pots, with multi-holed pots being better. For ventilation, shallow pots are preferred, and the pot height is best less than the pot diameter. (2) Growing medium selection: Gladiolus is a typical epiphytic orchid; its root system is well developed, and the growing medium must have... >>More
4. Propagation methods for growing gladiolus Gladiolus is mainly propagated by corm division. The method is to plant well-developed large corms (about 5 cm in diameter) individually in a seedbed in April-May, with a plant spacing of 15 cm, covering with 6-10 cm of soil, firming and watering for cultivation, and they can bloom in July-August, taking about 100-120 days. Alternatively, plant a batch every 10 days from mid-April to the end of July, so that flowers are produced continuously from July to October. After flowering, the underground corm shrinks, and 1-3 new corms and several small cormels form above the mother corm. Continue planting corms 2 cm in diameter (cormels) in a seedbed in spring and cultivate them for 2-3 years until they develop into large corms that serve as planting corms. To speed up propagation, one can also use... >>More
5. Precautions for growing gladiolus (1) When producing cut flowers in a greenhouse, fluorescent lamps must be used for supplemental lighting, increasing the daily light period to more than 14 hours. Gladiolus should not be continuously cropped; it cannot be planted in the same plot year after year, otherwise the corms will shrink year by year and each flower spike will bear fewer flowers, so it should be replanted only after an interval of 3-4 years; in greenhouse production, the soil must be changed every year. (2) After planting in spring, it should be watered regularly; once drought-stressed, the leaf tips will turn yellow and wither, and after the flower stem is drawn it must not suffer drought. In rainless seasons, at least... >>More
6. Pest and disease control for growing gladiolus (1) Gladiolus corm rot [Symptoms] The disease mainly occurs in the lower tissues of the plant. Infected corms develop sunken yellow to dark brown lesions 4-6 mm across, with slightly raised edges, appearing ulcer-like. After the leaf base is affected, a few obvious black spots often appear; infection of the leaf sheath produces dark brown water-soaked streaks; leaves turn yellow and wilt after becoming diseased. In dry conditions, the diseased parts rot and dry up; under moist conditions, the diseased tissue softens and disintegrates, sometimes with bacterial pus oozing out, and finally only the fibers of the vascular bundle tissue remain, at which point the stem is easily broken. Control methods: ... >>More
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Cultivation methods and precautions for the snake plant
Keeping a snake plant at home is a good choice. The snake plant, also known as Sansevieria, has stiff, upright leaves with grayish-white and dark green tiger-tail-like horizontal banded markings on the surface, and a resolute, unusual and interesting posture; it has many varieties with considerable variation in plant form and leaf color, refined and distinctive; it is highly adaptable to the environment and is a tenacious plant. The golden-edged snake plant belongs to the genus Sansevieria in the family Dracaenaceae and is one of the more ornamental of the more than 60 species of snake plants, distributed in both tropical and subtropical regions. Below, the editor of Yiqiwang will explain in detail the cultivation methods and precautions for the snake plant.Cultivation methods and precautions for the snake plant
Ecological habits: A light-loving long-day plant; during winter cultivation, light must be increased on cloudy days; it fears freezing. The suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. Corms that have passed through dormancy sprout at 4-5°C, and plants freeze to death at a low temperature of 0°C during winter cultivation. It is not tolerant of waterlogging, and the cultivation site must not have standing water. It likes fertile, well-drained sandy loam, with a pH of 5.6-6.5 being best.
The main diseases include:
A. Penicillium rot: during harvest and transport, try not to injure the corms; soak in a 2% potassium permanganate solution for 1 hour before planting; remove diseased plants at any time during growth.
B. Dry rot: select disease-free mother corms when planting, and remove diseased plants promptly during growth.
C. "Blind flower" is a physiological disease that mostly occurs in protected cultivation in winter. The way to prevent it is to ensure suitable temperature and light and to choose varieties tolerant of low temperature and short-day conditions.
The main pest is the two-lined slug, which can be killed by spraying with limewater or ammonia water; scatter lime powder around the garden to prevent them from entering; and hand-collect and kill them.
Soil
Snake plants require loose, highly breathable soil, so when mixing soil for them, be sure to use 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 garden soil. Remember that the soil must be loose and breathable, otherwise moisture will not evaporate easily, causing the rhizome to rot. You can also mix 3 parts fertile garden soil with 1 part coal cinders, then add a small amount of soybean cake or chicken manure as base fertilizer.
Propagation
Propagation can be done by division and cuttings. All varieties of snake plants can be propagated by division, generally carried out together with repotting in spring. The method is to cut over-dense leaf clusters into several clumps, each clump having, in addition to leaves, a section of rhizome and a sucker, and then potting and planting them separately.
Yellow-edged or silver-veined varieties of snake plants are propagated by cuttings, which can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. The method is to take leaves 5-10 cm long, let them dry slightly, and insert them into sand. When inserting, they must not be placed upside down. After insertion, spray with Xinguozhimuo, which on the plant surface can prevent pathogen infection, improve resistance to natural disasters, and increase photosynthetic intensity. Be careful to maintain a certain humidity, and they will take root after one month.
Temperature
Snake plants have fairly high temperature requirements; their suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and growth stops below 13°C. In winter, the lowest temperature should not be below 10°C, otherwise the base of the plant will rot, causing the whole plant to die.
Humidity
When watering snake plants during the growing season, follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In spring, when new shoots sprout at the root crown, water a little more to keep the potting soil moist, and in the rainy season never let water accumulate in the pot. Usually, wipe dust off the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy.
Generally speaking, if the soil is relatively loose, water twice a week; in colder winter weather, once is enough.
Fertilizer
Snake plants have low fertilizer requirements. During the growing season, apply a 15% soybean cake fertilizer solution once every half month; spraying with Zhuangjingling can make the plant stems thick and strong, the leaves thick, the leaf color fresh and tender, and the plant luxuriant. During the peak growing season, apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month, in small amounts; if only nitrogen fertilizer is applied for a long time, the markings on the leaves will become dull, so a compound fertilizer is generally used. You can also evenly bury 3 holes of cooked soybeans in the soil at the edge of the pot, 7-10 beans per hole, being careful not to let them touch the roots; stop fertilizing from November to March of the following year.
Diseases and pests
The common diseases of snake plants are mainly leaf spot and anthracnose, which can be treated by spraying 50% carbendazim; the common pest is the weevil, which can be killed by spraying with a 1000-fold dilution of 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate.
Mature snake plants can bloom every year and are also fragrant, but they are mainly grown for their foliage. Such plants are drought-tolerant, moisture-tolerant and shade-tolerant, can adapt to various harsh environments, are suitable for garden beautification or pot culture, and are high-grade indoor flowering plants, very suitable for decorating places such as living rooms and studies.
According to experts, snake plants can absorb more than 80% of harmful gases indoors, and their ability to handle formaldehyde in particular is extremely strong, making them especially useful in newly renovated houses; snake plants can also protect against radiation. The above cultivation methods and precautions for snake plants are for your reference!