What are the daily care methods for Podocarpus bonsai?
Podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus) stays green all year round, vigorous and elegant, and holds an important place in bonsai art. It is divided into large-leaf, medium-leaf and fine-leaf types; for bonsai, choose the fine-leaf one. When cultivating Podocarpus bonsai, as long as you follow its habits, care is not difficult.
[Soil selection] It likes slightly acidic soil, so use well-drained sandy loam or humus soil as the potting soil.
[Frequent misting] It likes a humid environment; frequently spraying clean water on the leaves keeps the foliage emerald green and helps it grow well. But it also dislikes waterlogged potting soil, so you must make sure not to spray too much - just moisten the leaves.
[Little fertiliser] Apply only some fully decomposed organic fertiliser in winter, and no more afterwards. This avoids the result of oversized leaves and the complete loss of its elegant form.
[No prolonged sun exposure] It is a semi-shade tree species and fears long exposure to the scorching summer sun, so it should be placed in a semi-shaded site for cultivation.
[Cold protection] It likes mild conditions and is quite afraid of cold; new branches grown in autumn are easily damaged by frost, so it should be moved indoors early to overwinter. But the temperature should not be too high either. Practice shows that overwintering in an environment of 0-10°C is ideal.
A brief discussion of the potential of miniature bonsai
A brief discussion of the potential of miniature bonsai
Recently I have had the chance to visit some private bonsai gardens, take part in some bonsai exhibitions and competitions, call on some bonsai friends, and at the same time search online for some bonsai information and pictures. I have found that miniature bonsai, as a form of expression of bonsai and a wonderful flower of bonsai art, occupies an ever higher place in the great family of bonsai. Winning by being "small" and even "tiny", showing the grand within the small, with extraordinary bearing, great elegance in small pieces, and full of vitality, it is increasingly welcomed and favoured by people. As a bonsai enthusiast, the author has deep feelings for small bonsai, so I have cobbled together this clumsy article, hoping to borrow the wind's help and do my bit to promote the better development of small bonsai.
Where are the advantages of small bonsai?
Having played with bonsai for more than ten years, most of my works are medium to large. In the last two years, I have grown fond of miniature and small ones. As for the reasons, I have realised five points: first, as one grows older, large ones are too heavy to move while small ones take little effort; second, as circumstances change, large ones have nowhere to go while small ones are easy to store; third, as resources are depleted, large stumps are hard to obtain while small stumps are easy to get; fourth, according to plant growth habits, large ones take shape slowly while small ones take shape easily; fifth, following market rules, large ones find it hard to enter thousands of homes while small ones easily enter ten thousand households.
In Japan, small potted bonsai enjoy great popularity, and they are becoming objects that help people relieve stress, relax and forget their worries. Shoichi Endo, a member of the Japan Shohin Bonsai Association and owner of Asahi Bonsai Garden, described four advantages of small bonsai, very vividly and concretely: 1, simple management - they can be cared for even in a narrow space such as a balcony; 2, as decorative potted plants they can take shape in a short time; 3, repotting is easy, suitable for all kinds of people; 4, material can be obtained through cuttings, seedlings and other means, costing little yet allowing you to enjoy the pleasure."
Where is the future of small and miniature bonsai?
Bonsai production and cultivation is an industry with a rather long cycle, rather difficult procedures to master, and a limited market. But looking at it from two sides, producing medium and large bonsai indeed has a very long cycle, very difficult procedures and a very narrow market, and moreover leads to the destruction of wild resources. If we aim our development direction at small and miniature bonsai, the prospects are quite different. We can reach a conclusion by analysing from the two angles of producer and consumer.
As a producer, what one seeks is that the products produced have lower production costs, a shorter production cycle, greater market space and a higher profit margin, and the production of small and miniature bonsai has these attributes. First, the sources of material for producing and cultivating small and miniature bonsai are easy to obtain. One can buy unsold nursery stock suitable for making bonsai from nurseries everywhere, or cultivate one's own raw material seedlings; for landscape bonsai, the raw materials can be waste material and offcuts purchased from large rockery projects and stone yards, and the production raw materials obtained through these channels are relatively low in cost. Second, the cycle for producing small and miniature bonsai is much shorter than for medium and large bonsai; medium and large bonsai take at least 5 to 8 years from raising the stump to taking shape, and some even require decades and several generations; while small and miniature bonsai take 3 to 5 years at most, or 1 to 2 years at least, to take shape. In addition, the production of small and miniature bonsai can even be carried out as factory production. Third, green vegetation and flowering and fruiting plants are loved by people, offering a good remedy for those who are busy, tense and tired all day long, becoming a panacea for eliminating fatigue, adjusting thinking, relaxing the mind and easing pressure, and small and miniature bonsai, which can be moved, put down and afforded, have even more advantages and are more likeable.
As a consumer, one could not wish more for consumer goods to have the qualities of "cheap and fine, easy to carry, unrestricted in placement, beautiful and elegant", and small and miniature bonsai, being small in size, light in weight, space-saving, low in price, easy to carry, high in taste and easy to care for, have them all. Small and miniature bonsai serve as decorative and ornamental items for offices and the home inside and out, and are elegant gifts for visiting relatives and friends and for wedding celebrations, and even more so the most meaningful souvenirs for people going out on holiday or travelling, letting people afford them and give them away.
Where is the market for small and miniature bonsai?
The author believes the market for small and miniature bonsai lies in "the masses" and "innovation". "The masses" means being liked by millions of households; "innovation" means being accepted by millions of households. As people's living standards improve and their quality of life rises, bonsai art and foliage and flowering plants, which beautify and improve the ecological environment and the living environment, will enter millions of households, which provides an excellent opportunity and broad prospects for the development of bonsai art, and also puts forward the following series of requirements for the innovation of bonsai art.
First, in design, bonsai must be made small and medium in size to meet the conditions and requirements of apartment living. Large bonsai are only suitable for placement in courtyard homes, enterprises and institutions, parks and similar places. Therefore bonsai should follow a development direction of mainly small and medium sizes, with large ones as a supplement. At the same time, attention should be paid to the artistic combination and design of small and miniature bonsai, combining multiple small and miniature pots together, displaying them on a curio shelf to adorn the room, with each responding to the others from above and below, which is more poetic and picturesque and more liked by the masses.
Second, in the choice of tree species, evergreen and flowering and fruiting species should be the main ones, to show joy and vitality. Better species are Podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine and other conifers and cypresses, citrus such as kumquat and jinju, azaleas, boxwoods (Buxus), as well as banyan, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), camellia sasanqua, nandina, plum blossom, Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), goji, Elaeagnus, Serissa, crape myrtle, tamarisk and so on. These species are either emerald green and full of life all year round, or bloom brilliantly and joyously, or bear abundant fruit in a scene of harvest; whoever sees them loves them, and thus bonsai art can meet the requirements of people of different levels and preferences.
Third, in the cultivation and management of bonsai, one should strive for simplicity and ease of practice, and avoid polluting the environment. For example, use perlite, vermiculite or disinfected river sand instead of soil as the substrate, use scientifically formulated nutrient solution instead of organic fertiliser for fertilisation, and use drip irrigation instead of watering, etc. This not only ensures a clean environment but also provides convenience in managing bonsai for office workers and those who travel on business.
Fourth, in the styling of tree-stump bonsai, one should not only tend towards nature but also have many styles coexist. One should create a wide variety of bonsai works representing the characteristics of the times and personal features, to meet the requirements of different groups of people. The artistic conception of bonsai should be more abstract and implicit, and the forms of expression should be natural yet seek the ingenious, so that people find interest, inspiration and lingering aftertaste when viewing them.
Fifth, in the sources of tree-stump material, one should move away from the method of relying mainly on digging up wild stumps, establish production bases for bonsai material, and adopt techniques of sowing, cuttings (including large-branch cuttings), grafting and layering (including air layering of thick branches) to rapidly cultivate large quantities of high-quality bonsai material, meeting the needs of bonsai creation and also protecting the ecological environment.
There is also a key issue, namely price, which must be acceptable to consumers and worth spending on. For small bonsai to enter millions of households, the core is that consumers can afford them.
In summary, as long as people of aspiration work together, I believe the world of small bonsai will become even broader, and small bonsai will have great prospects!
Autumn flower cultivation and care measures
All flowers that have made it through the high-temperature season enter another growth peak in autumn. At this time sunlight is ample and the temperature suitable, so the supply of fertiliser and water and nutrients should be increased, so that the flower plants have a strong, well-nourished body before winter arrives. After the beginning of autumn the temperature gradually drops and sunshine weakens, and for many citizens who love growing flowers, flowers need to be cared for according to the climate characteristics of this season, so that they pass through autumn and overwinter smoothly.
Autumn flower cultivation and care measuresOne,General care measures
1. Strengthen fertiliser and water management
Apply phosphorus and potassium fertiliser to flowers that go dormant in winter. Flowers that do not go dormant in winter can still be given nitrogen fertiliser; in particular, foliage plants should still be given fertiliser mainly based on nitrogen. But when applying it, care should be taken to combine it with phosphorus and potassium fertiliser. Reasonable application of phosphorus and potassium fertiliser can improve the cold resistance of flowers. Plants that bloom in winter, such as cineraria, calceolaria (pouch flower), cyclamen, poinsettia and wintersweet, are in the vegetative growth period in early autumn and should be given fertiliser mainly based on nitrogen; in late autumn they are mostly in the bud stage, and when fertilising such flowers phosphorus and potassium fertiliser should be the main component with nitrogen as a supplement, as too much nitrogen is not conducive to winter blooming. For flowers and nursery stock planted in the open ground, generally do not water unless the soil is dry, and when watering, water thoroughly. For potted flowers, care should be taken to water frequently and thoroughly, and it is not advisable to give only half a watering, which forms a wet top and dry bottom and affects root growth; one should also prevent excessive watering, which causes root rot. After entering autumn, the water supply should be controlled to prompt new shoots to mature, avoiding flowers and nursery stock putting out new shoots in late autumn and winter, which is not conducive to overwintering. But in early or mid-autumn, because the temperature is relatively high, flowers and nursery stock put out new shoots, and during this period water should be supplied abundantly to ensure the new shoots can grow and mature in time. In autumn, watering should be done in the morning and afternoon. The purpose is to keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature, which is conducive to absorption and avoids damaging the roots.
2. Pay attention to flowering period regulation
Many flowers are arranged to bloom during New Year's Day and the Spring Festival, so forcing cultivation or inhibiting cultivation should be carried out. For example, baby's breath is a long-day flower; to require it to bloom in winter, supplementary lighting must begin in early September, generally adding 4 hours of light from 10:00 pm to 2:00 am for 1 consecutive month. Chrysanthemum is a short-day flower; to delay its blooming, supplementary lighting is also necessary. Supplementary lighting also starts from early to mid-September and stops 50 days before the expected flowering. For some warmth-loving flowers, such as anthurium, bird of paradise (Strelitzia) and Phalaenopsis, note that when the average daily temperature is below 15°C, heating should be added; lilies cultivated in autumn and winter, besides needing heating at low temperatures, also need supplementary light to prevent hidden buds.
3. Strengthen pest and disease control
The main autumn pests are: for carnation and baby's breath, control cabbage caterpillars; for gerbera, control spider mites; for chrysanthemum, control cabbage caterpillars and aphids; for lily, control aphids, etc. Main diseases: chrysanthemum leaf spot, rose black spot and powdery mildew, carnation leaf spot, gerbera leaf spot, etc. Diseases should be controlled mainly by prevention, paying attention to ventilation, reducing the air humidity in the greenhouse, increasing the application of phosphorus and potassium fertiliser, improving the disease resistance of plants, and spraying chemicals for protection and control.
4. Intertillage and weeding
Intertillage can loosen the surface soil, reduce water evaporation, increase soil moisture, promote the flow of air in the soil and the decomposition of nutrients, and create good conditions for the root growth of flowers and the absorption of nutrients. Weeding can prevent weeds from competing with flowers for soil nutrients, water and sunlight. Intertillage can weed at the same time, but weeding cannot replace intertillage. The depth of intertillage is generally 3 to 5 cm. At the same time, intertillage and weeding can also help prevent pests and diseases and reduce the probability of pests and diseases occurring the following year.
5. Shaping and pruning
Autumn shaping and pruning should mainly be "light", avoiding "heavy" pruning that causes weakened tree vigour or even dead seedlings. The main pruning methods are pinching and branch pruning. Base it mainly on the plant's natural form and shape as needed. Among them, tree types are mainly pruned by branch pruning, highlighting the trunk and allowing it to branch only after the trunk reaches a certain height; shrub types are mainly pinched to maintain their original shape or prompt them to form an ideal shape and expand their crown width. Shaping and pruning can improve the quality of flowers.
Autumn flower cultivation and care measures
Two,Management of flowers planted in courtyard ground beds
1. Transplanting
For the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, ground-planted flowers can also be transplanted provided a soil ball is kept. Transplanting requires severe pruning, and watering and shading management must be strengthened, to ensure the transplanting is completely successful.
2. Pruning and pinching
Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning in the growing season for courtyard hedges and ball-shaped plants in northern regions in autumn. The courtyard hedges and colour-block plants suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood types, French holly (Viburnum rhytidophyllum), Photinia, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, etc. The ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex), Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to prompt a full plant shape and more flower spikes on the side shoots, and pinching should stop after late September.
3. Seed collection
The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew (Taxus), horse chestnut, crabapple types, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in damp sand until early spring the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh them in time and store them dry until spring the following year for sowing.
Autumn flower cultivation and care measures
Three,Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Pruning
For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of removing buds and flower buds; for rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, jasmine, pearl orchid (Chloranthus), bougainvillea, lantana, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, etc., prune after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, continue to prune or pinch out buds.
2. Pest and disease control
Pests and diseases of autumn flowers are somewhat fewer than in summer, so pest and disease management should focus on prevention. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum, crabapple, longevity peach and ornamental peach plants, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or control can be carried out by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armoured scale and felt scale appearing on potted flowering plants, use a 1500-fold dilution of 40% Supracide for control.
Autumn flower cultivation and care measures
Four,Key points and measures for flower care and management after the beginning of autumn
An old saying goes: "Eighteen days after the beginning of autumn, every inch of grass sets seed", meaning that after the beginning of autumn the plants in nature all set seed and end their lives. This solar term is also very important for those who grow flowers; quite a few flowers need strengthened fertiliser and water management, autumn pruning and care, so that the plants increase their resistance to adverse conditions.
For example, osmanthus about to bloom should be given more fertiliser water containing phosphorus and potassium, as it will bloom as soon as September arrives; plum blossoms that bloom in winter, after water restriction to prompt leaf buds to transform into flower buds, need the formed flower buds to be strengthened through increased application of phosphorus and potassium fertiliser, and their leaves must be protected from falling; and orchids need to maintain air humidity, prevent autumn dryness, and be given more fertiliser rich in phosphorus and potassium, to prompt the flower buds of Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi to grow (for example, when Cymbidium goeringii has just formed flower buds, prompt them to grow large); goji should be pruned appropriately to prompt more autumn flowers and fruiting. Among chrysanthemums, early chrysanthemums already have fairly large flower buds, and large-flowered chrysanthemums also need bud thinning and shoot removal, and so on. So after the beginning of autumn there is quite a lot to do in flower management.
Autumn flower cultivation and care measures
1. Irrigation: irrigation should be carried out in the morning and evening; avoid irrigation at noon in high temperatures, and avoid using cold water with a large temperature difference. You can irrigate the ground, or spray water on the leaves to lower the temperature.
2. Shading: continue shading treatment for shade-loving flowers and nursery stock to prevent sunscald, such as Monstera deliciosa, azalea, asparagus fern, ferns, orchids, etc.
3. Propagation:
(1) Sowing: woody flowers that can be sown include peony and Podocarpus, and the seeds can be sown as soon as collected; herbaceous flowers that can be sown include petunia, snapdragon, nasturtium, calendula, etc.
(2) Cuttings: herbaceous flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include herbs, Scutellaria indica, geranium, etc.; woody flowers suitable for cutting propagation include bougainvillea, Aglaia, azalea, camellia, Podocarpus, etc.
(3) Grafting: use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock to bud-graft Magnolia soulangeana; use wild peach as rootstock to graft ornamental peach, purple-leaf peach and red-leaf plum; use green maple as rootstock to graft red maple and feather maple; use wild rose etc. as rootstock to graft modern roses, etc.
(4) Layering: flowering plants that can be propagated by layering include: wintersweet, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, red maple, etc.
(5) Division: flowers that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, Cyperus alternifolius, iris, Acorus calamus, Nephrolepis (Boston fern), etc.
4. Fertiliser and water management: for vigorously growing flowers, apply fertiliser once every half month; for flowers currently in bloom, apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertiliser as a top dressing.
5. Pruning and bud pinching: for hedges such as red Loropetalum, golden-leaf privet and French holly, prune in time; for flowers such as rose, crape myrtle, Aglaia and jasmine, cut off faded flowers and withered stalks and shorten appropriately, cutting away diseased and weak branches, etc., to prompt them to sprout new branches and bloom again.
6. Seed collection: woody flower seeds that can be collected include peony, Podocarpus, Calycanthus chinensis, etc. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: peony (herbaceous), Scutellaria indica, garden balsam, morning glory, etc.