Reasons for Yellowing Leaves on the Chinese Evergreen and How to Fix Them
The Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) is a perennial indoor foliage plant of the Araceae family. In the south it can also be grown for its fruit. Its leaves stay emerald green all year round, making it an excellent indoor foliage plant. But when kept indoors for a long time, it easily develops yellowing leaves and leaf drop, which not only affects its appearance, but the loss of lower leaves
The Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) is a perennial indoor foliage plant of the Araceae family. In the south it can also be grown for its fruit. Its leaves stay emerald green all year round, making it an excellent indoor foliage plant. But when kept indoors for a long time, it easily develops yellowing leaves and leaf drop, which not only affects its appearance, but the loss of lower leaves also creates an unbalanced, top-heavy plant shape. When caring for the Chinese evergreen, pay attention to the following factors:
(1) Temperature and light
Temperatures that are too high, light that is too strong or dry air will make the Chinese evergreen uncomfortable. The Chinese evergreen originates in the tropics and likes a hot, humid environment, with an optimum growing temperature of 20-28°C. In summer, once temperatures exceed 30°C, growth is affected; if it gets even hotter, yellow leaves appear and leaves may even drop.
The Chinese evergreen likes high temperatures and is not cold-tolerant; its overwintering temperature should stay above 5°C. If the ambient temperature is too low, leaf drop will likewise occur. Therefore, in cold regions, protective measures must be taken for overwintering.
In summer, light levels in northern regions are very strong, and combined with dry air, this easily causes scorched yellow leaf edges. Therefore, in summer pay attention to the ambient temperature; the plant can be placed indoors, avoiding strong direct sunlight on a balcony.
(2) Humidity
The Chinese evergreen likes a hot, humid environment and is fairly tolerant of wet conditions. In summer, both the plant and the soil lose a lot of water through evaporation; if you fail to water in time, or do not water thoroughly for a long time, leaf drop will occur. Therefore, follow the principle of "water only when dry, and water thoroughly when you do," loosen the soil together with a thorough watering, and also mist the leaves regularly to raise the humidity of the microclimate.
(3) Fertilising
Over-fertilising or using too strong a fertiliser is harmful to the growth of the Chinese evergreen. Since its growth rate is not great, applying a phosphorus-potassium fertiliser 1-2 times a month during the vigorous growth periods of spring and autumn each year is enough. Growth almost stops during low winter temperatures and high summer temperatures, so fertilising should be stopped to prevent root rot.
(4) Pruning and renewal
Once the lower leaves drop, you can, during the vigorous spring growth period, cut off all the above-ground parts, then provide appropriate shade and moisture; many fresh, tender leaves and shoots will soon sprout. The cut stems can also be used for cuttings to propagate new plants.
Chinese evergreen Aglaonema modestum Schott ex Engl Chinese evergreen picture guide: how to grow the Chinese evergreen / how to propagate the Chinese evergreen
Chinese Evergreen ProfileChinese evergreen Aglaonema modestum Schott ex Engl
How to grow the Chinese evergreen and points to note Introduction to the Chinese evergreen
The Chinese evergreen, also known as Chinese grass, painted drop-tongue and Guangdong evergreen, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Aglaonema in the Araceae family. It originates in India and Malaysia, and there is also a small distribution in China and the Philippines. It likes a warm, humid environment, tolerates shade, and dislikes direct sunlight; it is not cold-tolerant, and its winter overwintering temperature must not fall below 12°C.
The Chinese evergreen is a perennial herb; the stem is upright and unbranched; the leaf shape is variable, ranging from lanceolate and long-elliptic to ovate, on either side of the midrib. Colourful markings are distributed along both sides of the veins on the leaf surface, the veins are pale red, the leaf colour is deep green; it is monoecious with unisexual flowers, a spadix inflorescence and a pale green spathe. The Chinese evergreen plant is not tall, is strongly shade-tolerant and evergreen all year round, making it an excellent indoor foliage plant.
Morphological characteristics of the Chinese evergreen
The Chinese evergreen is a perennial herb with an upright, unbranched stem; the leaf shape is variable, ranging from lanceolate and long-elliptic to ovate, on either side of the midrib. The stem is upright and unbranched. The plant is about 30-50 cm tall, with lanceolate or long-elliptic leaves; the leaf surface varies with the variety, is leathery and thick, and often has different silver or white markings inlaid on it. Mature plants can flower. The plant is not tall, is strongly shade-tolerant and evergreen all year round, making it an excellent indoor foliage plant. The two sides of the midrib are often unequal in size, and the leaf colour is dark green, scattered with grey, milky white or yellow.
The Chinese evergreen has a relatively short rhizome with fibrous roots at the nodes; the leaves grow in a cluster from the base, are broadly ob-lanceolate, hard in texture and glossy. It flowers in April-May, with a terminal spike inflorescence; the flowers are small and dense, white tinged with green; the berries are spherical, turning from green to red, and do not fall through the winter. Because the leaves of the evergreen are broad and grey-green, and its berries are bright red and round, it is very beautiful, and has long been a flower grown both for its foliage and its fruit.
The root system is well developed, with underground rhizomes that can sprout and produce divisions; the leaves are lanceolate, long-elliptic or ovate, with the base of the petiole in a sheath shape; the two sides of the midrib are often unequal in size; the plant is mostly upright; colourful markings are distributed along both sides of the veins on the leaf surface, the veins are pale red, the leaf colour is deep green; it is monoecious with unisexual flowers, a spadix inflorescence and a pale green spathe.
Ecological habits of the Chinese evergreen
The Chinese evergreen likes a semi-shaded, warm, humid, well-ventilated environment; it dislikes direct sunlight and waterlogging. It can be grown in ordinary garden soil, but sandy loam rich in humus, loose and with good drainage, is best.
The Chinese evergreen likes a warm, humid environment and grows well in semi-shade; it can overwinter as long as the temperature stays above 5°C in winter. It is not demanding about soil, so it is very convenient to grow at home. It likes a warm climate but has poor cold tolerance; the winter temperature must not fall below 13°C. It dislikes sun exposure, tolerates high temperatures but not cold. It is drought-tolerant, with an optimum growing temperature of 20-30°C. It is not demanding about the substrate; ordinary domestic peat is enough to grow it.
Cultivation techniques for the Chinese evergreen: light and watering
The Chinese evergreen likes a shady, damp environment and fears direct sunlight; it can be kept in a shaded spot all year round, and even short exposure to the sun will turn the leaf surface white and then yellow and withered. Its optimum growing temperature is 20-28°C; it is not cold-tolerant, and in winter it must be kept above 8°C. If the temperature is too low, it is prone to cold damage. Once it drops its leaves, it will die. In the hot summer season, water once each morning and evening, and also spray water on the surrounding ground to raise air humidity. In spring and autumn, watering should follow the principle of "dry then wet"; in winter, watering should be restricted, because if the potting soil is too wet at this time, the leaves easily turn yellow and root rot occurs. During the growing period the potting soil must not be too dry, otherwise a lack of water easily makes the leaves yellow, wilt and drop. In spring and autumn, apply a liquid fertiliser rich in nitrogen and potassium once every 15-20 days; in midsummer, fertilising should generally be stopped.
Soil, temperature and humidity
The Chinese evergreen likes a loose, fertile, well-drained growing medium and does not tolerate saline-alkaline conditions. The potting soil can be mixed from leaf mould, garden soil and a small amount of river sand. Generally, repot once every 1-2 years. Mother plants that have grown for many years often become prostrate with a poor shape and should be re-propagated from cuttings to renew them. Division and cuttings are commonly used. The temperature for rooting cuttings is 25-30°C, with a relative humidity of around 80%, and roots form in about 1 month. The potting soil is a mix of 3 parts leaf mould, 1 part loam and 1 part coarse sand, with an appropriate amount of base fertiliser added. During the growing period, keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity fairly high, so that the air humidity is not lower than 40%; in summer, pay attention to shading, apply a dilute acidic fertiliser solution once every 2 weeks, and in winter keep the greenhouse temperature no lower than 10°C. Repot once every spring depending on the size of the plant.
Light management
Aglaonema likes a bright, well-ventilated environment. In spring, control the light at 15000LX-20000Lx; in summer, because temperatures are high with high heat and humidity, strengthen shading and ventilation, and a light level of 8000-****Lx is ideal; in autumn and winter, when temperatures are lower, control the light to 20000-30000Lx or full sun. If the light is too strong, the leaves turn yellow-green; too much shade makes the plant very leggy and prone to lodging, affecting its ornamental effect.
Temperature management
Aglaonema likes high temperatures and is not cold-tolerant, with an optimum growing temperature of 25-30°C. The minimum overwintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt and the terminal bud dies. Winter care requires heating equipment; if there is no heating facility, double-layer insulation can be used. In winter, when the temperature drops to 22-24°C in the afternoon, the greenhouse should be sealed promptly (generally the north side of the greenhouse should be sealed, while some space can be left on the south side to facilitate air flow inside the greenhouse and prevent excessive humidity inside). If a simple greenhouse is used for growing in summer, the film should be removed on sunny days, with 1 layer of 75%-density shade netting on the roof, and another layer of 50% shade netting can be added inside the greenhouse, which provides ventilation and cooling. However, on consecutive rainy days the film must be put back on to prevent excessive rainwater from making the substrate in the pots wet for a long time, which causes root and stem rot. In summer, strengthen shading and ventilation, and it is not advisable to use long-distance multi-span greenhouses; instead, independent single-roof greenhouses should be used.
Key points for care
The leaves of the painted drop-tongue (Dieffenbachia) have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright colouring and year-round green foliage. Its key cultivation points are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or in a shaded spot outdoors, to avoid strong direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. This affects the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being brought out in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves, or in a shaded spot on a balcony, and care should be taken to prevent rain from falling on it.
As for watering, besides keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and in winter watering should be controlled.
The evergreen has fleshy roots, so it fears waterlogging most of all; if watered too much, it easily suffers root rot. But the air must be kept humid, because if the air is dry, problems such as dry leaf tips easily occur. In spring and autumn, apply a decomposed cake fertiliser solution once every 3-4 weeks to keep the plant growing robustly with green leaves. In addition, around the start of summer, several old leaves around the outside of the mature plant should be cut off to encourage new shoots, new leaves and flower stems to emerge. Besides watering adequately, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply a liquid fertiliser once every half month. In the north, after being brought indoors for winter, the room temperature must not fall below 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it easily causes cold damage, leaf drop and death. In winter, spray and wash the leaf surface with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being soiled by smoke and dust, keeping the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
The Chinese evergreen is very shade-tolerant and grows in bright, indirect light. Places such as the north side of a building or under trees are very suitable; in spring and autumn it can see sunlight in the morning and evening, while in summer direct sunlight must be avoided, as strong light easily turns the leaves yellow. During the growing period, keep the soil constantly moist; in summer, spray water twice a day to increase humidity and lower temperature and to wash dust off the leaves. From May to October, apply a cake fertiliser solution once every half month to keep the leaves green and glossy. If grown in water, simply put a small amount of long-acting flower fertiliser tablets or compound fertiliser in the container and it will grow very well.
Home care
During the growing period, the water supply must be adequate; in midsummer, spray water on the leaves every morning and evening. In winter, stem and leaf growth slows, so water should be controlled and the potting soil should not be too wet. In southern regions, keep the plant in semi-shade in summer. From May to October, during the period of vigorous stem and leaf growth, fertilise once every half month. When brought indoors in winter, if the leaves turn yellow, apply 1 extra application of diluted nitrogen fertiliser. Mother plants that have grown for several years often become prostrate with a poor shape and should be re-propagated from cuttings to renew them.
How to grow the Chinese evergreen: potting up
When potting up small seedlings, first place 2-2 cm of coarse-grained substrate or ceramic granules at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertiliser on top as a base fertiliser, about 1-2 cm thick, then cover with another layer of substrate about 1-2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so as to separate the fertiliser from the roots and avoid burning the roots.
Substrate for potting up
You can choose one of the following: vegetable garden soil : cinder = 3 : 1; or garden soil : medium-coarse river sand : sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4 : 1 : 2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud or leaf mould. Or peat + perlite + ceramic granules = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; vegetable garden soil + cinder = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + cinder + ceramic granules = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium-coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting up, water thoroughly once and keep the plant in a shaded environment for care.
Humidity management
It likes a humid climate and requires the relative air humidity of the growing environment to be 60-75%.
Temperature management
The optimum growing temperature is 18°C-30°C. It dislikes cold and frost, and the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. In winter, when the air temperature drops below 4°C it enters a dormant state, and if the ambient temperature approaches 0°C, it will die from cold damage.
In summer
1. Strengthen air convection so that the heat inside the plant can be released;
2. Place it in semi-shade, or give it 50% shade;
3. Give it appropriate misting, 2-3 times a day.
In winter
1. Move it indoors to a bright spot for care;
2. Outdoors, it can be wrapped in plastic film to overwinter, but every two days, when the temperature is higher at noon, the film must be opened to let it breathe;
Light management
It fears strong direct sunlight and needs to be kept in semi-shade for care, or given 70% shade. If kept indoors, place it in as bright a spot as possible, and every one or two months move it outdoors to a semi-shaded or shaded spot for a month of care, so that it can accumulate nutrients and recover its vigour.
Fertiliser and water management
It has high fertiliser and water requirements, but it most fears careless fertilising, strong fertiliser and one-sided applications of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium. Follow the fertilising (and watering) principle of "light fertiliser applied frequently, small amounts but many times, complete nutrition":
Spring, summer and autumn
These two seasons are its peak growing period. Fertiliser and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - "Hua Bao" - clear water - "Hua Bao" - "Hua Bao" - clear water (at the very least, ensure two applications of "Hua Bao" each week), with an interval of roughly: 1-4 days for outdoor plants; shorter intervals on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer intervals or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures; 2-6 days for indoor plants; shorter intervals on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer intervals or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures. Try to schedule watering in the morning when the temperature is lower.
In summer, water in the early morning or evening when the temperature is low, and also mist the plant regularly.
In winter, during the dormant period, the main task is to control fertiliser and water. Fertiliser and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water - "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water, with an interval of about 7-10 days; shorter intervals on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer intervals or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures. Try to schedule watering at noon on sunny days when the temperature is higher.
The Chinese evergreen can also be grown hydroponically. Cut a stem segment and insert it into water; after it roots, continue growing it in the water bottle, or take a potted plant out of its pot, wash the soil off the roots, and then soak it in a transparent glass vase, changing the water once every 2-3 days and changing to a nutrient solution once every 10 days. You can also use monopotassium phosphate and ammonium sulphate, 1/2 each, diluted with 1000-1500 times water before use.
For potting the evergreen, a sandy loam rich in humus should be used as the growing soil. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is more conducive to fully bringing out the effectiveness of the nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove the aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in an acid growing soil with added fertiliser. After potting up, keep it in a shaded spot for a few days. The key cultivation points for the evergreen are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips easily dry out and the edges scorch, affecting the ornamental effect. The evergreen has a fleshy root system and most fears waterlogging, so it must not be watered too much, otherwise root rot easily occurs. Ordinarily, just water the potting soil with an appropriate amount of water; water only when the potting soil is dry, and it is better to err on the dry side than to be too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.
During the growing period, apply a decomposed liquid fertiliser once every 20 days or so; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply a liquid fertiliser once every 10 days or so, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulphate can be added to the top dressing, so as to promote better growth with deep green, glossy leaves. During the peak flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period it must not be rained on, and should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated spot sheltered from rain.
In winter
The evergreen needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it easily causes the leaves to grow leggy and consume a large amount of nutrients, so that growth is weak the following year, affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If the evergreen develops yellow, scorched leaf tips in winter, or even the whole plant withers, this is mainly caused by the roots being unable to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter the air must also be kept humid and the potting soil slightly moist; generally, watering 1-2 times a week is appropriate. In addition, the leaves also need to be sprayed and washed with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and evergreen all year round.
How the Chinese evergreen propagates
The Chinese evergreen is propagated by cuttings, which root very easily, and can also be propagated by division or by sowing seed.
Propagation by cuttings
Water with room-temperature (soft) water; water more in spring and summer and less in autumn and winter. From March to August, apply a dilute (low-dose) fertiliser once every two weeks. Keep the potting soil warm and try to provide indirect humidity; but do not mist too much, to avoid leaf spot disease. Young plants should be repotted every year in general-purpose potting soil; mature plants as the situation requires.
Cutting substrate
This is the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil or similar material used for cuttings. For home cuttings, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting substrate due to limited conditions, so it is recommended to use the ready-mixed, sterilised cutting substrate provided on this site; medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it must be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkaline areas; they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants.
Choosing cutting stems
The stems used for cuttings are called cuttings. Cut the stem into segments 5-8 cm long, each with more than three leaf nodes; the growing tip can also be used as a cutting.
Care after cuttings are taken
Temperature
The optimum temperature for cuttings to root is 18°C-25°C. Below 18°C, rooting is difficult and slow; above 25°C, the cut surface of the cutting is easily infected by pathogens and rots, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion that rot. When low temperatures are encountered after cuttings are taken, the main insulation measure is to wrap the flowerpot or container used for the cuttings in plastic film; when the temperature is too high after cuttings are taken, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking out 50-80% of sunlight, and at the same time mist the cuttings 3-5 times a day; on sunny days with higher temperatures, mist more often, while on rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, mist less often or not at all.
Humidity
After cuttings are taken, the relative air humidity must be kept at 75-85%. Humidity can be increased by misting the cuttings 1-3 times a day; the higher the temperature on sunny days, the more often you should mist, and the lower the temperature on rainy days, the less often you should mist or not at all. But excessive misting makes the cuttings prone to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light
Propagation by cuttings cannot do without sunlight, but the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cutting, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cutting, and the more water it consumes, which is not conducive to the survival of the cutting. Therefore, after cuttings are taken, 50-80% of sunlight must be blocked out.
Division method
This is generally done in February-March along with repotting, dividing the clumped plant into several plants with roots and planting them separately. They can also be divided and planted in other seasons. After division, they can be divided again after three years.
Sowing method
Sowing is generally done in March-April. Sow in a flowerpot filled with growing soil, water, then leave temporarily in a shaded spot, keeping it moist; at 25-30°C, germination takes about 25 days. During the growing period, the water supply must be adequate; in midsummer, spray water on the leaves every morning and evening; in winter, stem and leaf growth slows, so water should be controlled and the potting soil should not be too wet. In southern regions, keep the plant in semi-shade in summer. From May to October, during the period of vigorous stem and leaf growth, fertilise once every half month. When brought indoors in winter, if the leaves turn yellow, apply 1 extra application of diluted nitrogen fertiliser. Mother plants that have grown for several years often become prostrate with a poor shape and should be re-propagated from cuttings to renew them.
Pest and disease control for the Chinese evergreen
During the growing period, the Chinese evergreen is easily harmed by leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale and so on.
Leaf spot
This disease occurs on the leaves of the Chinese evergreen, and is prone to occur in humid weather. The lesions initially appear as small brown spots, with a water-soaked, faded green margin, and expand in concentric rings, circular to elliptical, with brown edges and a greyish-white interior. Later, dark brown mould spots appear in the centre of the lesions, becoming a dark brown mould layer under moist conditions.
The way to control this disease is to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and later stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000 times dilution). For control with 800 times mancozeb, once a week for 3-4 consecutive times is enough.
Anthracnose
This disease also occurs on the leaves of the Chinese evergreen, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesions initially appear as small water-soaked yellow spots, and after expanding become elliptical to irregular brown or yellow-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; later the lesions join together into a dry, withered patch and produce small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favours its occurrence.
The way to control this disease is to strengthen care and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertiliser; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900 times dilution, or 70% thiophanate 1500 times dilution). In the early stage of the disease, control with 1000 times chlorothalonil, once a week for 3-4 consecutive times is enough.
Brown soft scale
This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants; the Chinese evergreen is one of the flowers it damages. When the brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers in groups on the leaf surface or on tender leaves, piercing and sucking the plant's sap, and at the same time excreting a sticky liquid; its excrement easily causes sooty mould fungi to multiply in large numbers, turning the stems and leaves black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellow, withered leaves, which detracts from its ornamental value. In severe infestations, the branches and stems are covered with the insects, causing the plant to turn yellow and wither, affecting growth.
Control methods
(1) If there are few affected plants, or the number of insects is small, simply scrape the insects off with a bamboo strip or similar;
(2) During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times dilution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times dilution); 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times dilution can also be sprayed to kill them.
Cold damage
It mainly occurs on old leaves; the old leaves turn yellow and are accompanied by water-soaked spots.
Green spots
The spadix inflorescences often cluster together in several, and the spathe is pale green, yellow-green or yellow; the fruit is an elliptical berry, orange-red or red when ripe, with one seed. It is mainly used for indoor potted plants or planting in shady spots in gardens. It is robust by nature, and grows well in pots in various media such as peat soil, tree fern fibre, and expanded clay. The growing spot should be shaded, avoiding strong direct sunlight, with about 50-60% sunlight being the most ideal. It likes a high-temperature environment with high air humidity, with an optimum growing temperature of about 20-28°C. It can be propagated by division or cuttings, with spring to autumn being the suitable period. In winter, when a cold snap brings the temperature below 13°C, the potted plant should be moved to a warm, sheltered spot to prevent cold damage.
Variety classification of the Chinese evergreen
Common important ornamental varieties of the evergreen include: golden-edged evergreen (leaves with yellow edges); silver-edged evergreen (leaves with white edges). In addition, there are also variants such as variegated, large-leaved, fine-leaved and dwarf. Common ornamental species of the same genus include:
Aglaonema costatum(A.crispum)
The plant is generally 50-80 cm tall. The leaves are densely clustered at the base of the stem, leathery, long-ovate, 10-18 cm long and about 5-6 cm wide, green and glossy, with greyish-white markings on the leaf surface. The leaves are ovate to ovate-lanceolate; the spathe is small and green, with the lower part often rolled up and the upper part open. The flowers are unisexual. The emerald green leaf surface is adorned with silver-green bands, dots, spots, halos and other patterns. The inflorescence grows in the leaf axils at the top of the stem and consists of a spadix and a spathe; the berry is red.
Chinese evergreen(A.modestum)
The plant is 40-60 cm tall. The leaves are elliptic-ovate, alternate, glossy, with long petioles that are sheath-like below the middle. The berry is bright red.
Aglaonema commutatum(A.costatum)
The stem is very short, branching at the base; the leaves are ovate-cordate, 12-22 cm long and 7-11 cm wide, thick, dark green, glossy, with white star-shaped spots on the leaf surface. The midrib is thick and white; the inflorescence is large and extends forward.
Aglaonema pictum(A.pictum)
The stem is short and much branched, 70-80 cm tall; the leaves are long-elliptic, slightly thin, 10-20 cm long and 5 cm wide, dark green and glossy, with large grey-green variegated patches. The petiole is 3-5 cm long with a short sheath; the flower stem is 2-5 cm long. A perennial evergreen herb of the Araceae family. The stem is upright, and the plant height is generally below 90 cm. The leaves are elliptical to ovate, dark green, appearing silver or white under high light. The petiole is sheathed; the inflorescence consists of a spadix and a spathe, with male flowers above and female flowers below, and a berry. It flowers in late summer and early autumn.
Native to southwestern and southern China and from India to Malaysia. It is also distributed in China. It likes a high-temperature, humid environment, with a growing temperature of 25-30°C and a relative humidity of 70%-90%. It is strongly shade-tolerant and dislikes strong direct sunlight. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Native to China and Japan. The main producing areas in China include Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei and other places; it likes to grow in damp spots under forests or in grassland.
Distribution range of the Chinese evergreen
The Chinese evergreen belongs to the Araceae family and originates in tropical Asia, being most widespread in Malaysia and the Philippines.
Within China, the Chinese evergreen is mainly distributed in southern China and southeastern Yunnan, and in Nanhai County, Guangdong and the Nanhai district of Foshan, Guangdong.
Aglaonema modestum grows in dense forests at altitudes of 500-1700 m. It prefers warm, humid environments and slightly acidic soil, tolerates shade but fears direct strong sunlight, and is not cold-tolerant; the winter temperature should not fall below 12°C.
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of Aglaonema modestum
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahu.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow doctor's orders.
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Medicinal value
Nature, flavor and meridian tropism: pungent, slightly bitter, cold. Slightly toxic.
Functions and indications: clears heat and detoxifies, reduces swelling and relieves pain. Used for dog bites, snake bites, sore throat, urethritis, enteritis, and cough due to lung heat. For external use, it treats carbuncles, sores, swelling and toxicity, and prolapse of the anus in children.
Usage and dosage: fresh product 0.5-1 liang; for external use, an appropriate amount, mash the fresh product and apply to the affected area. (To treat prolapse of the anus in children, grind it into powder, apply it and then push it back up, or decoct it in water for external washing.)
Supplementary formulas:
① For sore throat: mash fresh rhizome of Aglaonema modestum and squeeze out the juice, 3 to 5 qian, add a little cold boiled water and use as a gargle.
② For diphtheria: 1. Fresh leaves of Aglaonema modestum, 2 to 5 qian. Mash and decoct in water for oral administration. 2. Fresh rhizome of Aglaonema modestum, 1 liang. Mash, add 1 liang of vinegar, squeeze out the juice, add a little cold boiled water and use as a gargle.
③ For hematemesis: Aglaonema modestum, 1 liang 5 qian, and 7 red dates. Decoct in water for oral administration.
④ For carbuncle and swelling: an appropriate amount of fresh rhizome of Aglaonema modestum, and a little brown sugar. Mash and apply to the affected area. (Formulas ① and below are from "Fujian Chinese Herbal Medicine.") ⑤ For bites by rabid dogs: fresh Aglaonema modestum, 4 liang, and white sugar, 4 liang. Crush and squeeze out the juice, mix with white sugar and boiled water, and take orally. ("Luchuan Materia Medica")
Toxic parts
The whole plant.
Poisoning symptoms
Accidental ingestion of stems and leaves can cause symptoms such as inflammation of the mouth and tongue, diarrhea, and stomach pain.
Harvesting and storage
Rhizomes are harvested after autumn, used fresh or sliced and sun-dried. Stems and leaves are harvested in late summer, used fresh or cut into sections and sun-dried.
The role and uses of Aglaonema modestum: home decoration
The leaves of Aglaonema modestum are broad and glossy, verdant throughout the four seasons, and especially shade-tolerant. Besides being potted to accent halls and rooms, its leaves can also be cut for use as foliage in flower arrangements or to decorate outdoor environments. Common species in the same genus include Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay'.
Air purification
Aglaonema modestum is a common type of plant that purifies pollutants and has a good purifying effect on indoor formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene.
Common cultivars: Aglaonema nitidum, Aglaonema pictum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay', Aglaonema commutatum 'White Rajah', etc.
Cultural background of Aglaonema modestum: various discussions
1. "Luchuan Materia Medica": reduces inflammation and promotes urination. Treats asthma, scald and burn injuries, and bites by rabid dogs.
2. Guangzhou Military Region, "Manual of Commonly Used Chinese Herbal Medicines": clears heat and cools the blood, reduces swelling and draws out toxins, and relieves pain. Treats snake bites, sore throat, prolapse of the anus in children, and boils, sores, swelling and toxicity.
Origin of the name
The leaves of Aglaonema modestum are deep in color and glossy, and it remains evergreen throughout the four seasons, so it is called "winter-withering-not grass"; because it is widely distributed in the Guangzhou area, it is called Guangdong evergreen or Yue evergreen.
National flower and city flower of Aglaonema modestum
Aglaonema modestum is the city grass of Nanhai County and Nanhai District, Foshan, Guangdong.
The flower language of Aglaonema modestum
The flower language of Aglaonema modestum: good fortune and auspiciousness, and eternal youth.
The leaves of Aglaonema modestum are deep in color and glossy, and it remains evergreen throughout the four seasons, so it is called "winter-withering-not grass," thus symbolizing unchanging youth.
Pictures of Aglaonema modestum
Dieffenbachia picta (Lodd.) Schott. Illustrated guide to Dieffenbachia picta: how to grow Dieffenbachia picta / how to propagate Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta profileDieffenbachia picta (Lodd.) Schott
How to grow and precautions for Dieffenbachia picta: introduction to Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta, also known as dumb cane, is a plant in the genus Dieffenbachia of the Araceae family. This genus has about 30 native species, mainly distributed in tropical America. It was introduced to Britain in the 1860s and quickly spread throughout Europe, the Americas, and Oceania. It is widely cultivated worldwide, and its many cultivars have entered countless households.
The leaves of Dieffenbachia picta are deep green, with clear and lustrous markings, dignified yet elegant; it is relatively shade-tolerant and easy to care for, and can survive for a long time under ordinary conditions, making it an ideal foliage plant for indoor greenery decoration.
Dieffenbachia picta is an evergreen plant of the Araceae family, mainly grown for its foliage. Zebra plant is named because the markings on its leaves closely resemble the stripes on a zebra; it is also called silver vein aphelandra, and is an evergreen shrub or perennial herb in the genus Aphelandra of the Acanthaceae family. The sap of the leaves is highly toxic and can make people mute, so attention should be paid.
Propagation: division, cuttings
Flowering period: April to June
Sunlight: partial sun
Temperature: optimum growth temperature 20°C-28°C
Soil: not selective about soil
Water: prefers moisture
Morphological characteristics of Dieffenbachia picta
The stem of Dieffenbachia picta is 1 m tall, 1.5-2.5 cm thick, with internodes 2-4 cm long; the lower leaf sheaths are long, the middle petioles are sheathed to the middle, and the upper petioles are long with the sheath reaching almost the tip and having a broad groove; the leaf blades are oblong, oblong-elliptic, or oblong-lanceolate, 15-30 cm long and 7-12 cm wide, with a rounded or acute base, the apex slightly narrowed with an acute tip, dark green and glossy on both sides, with many oblong or linear-oblong patches of different sizes between the veins, the patches white or yellow-green, irregular; primary lateral veins 15-20 pairs, ascending, secondary lateral veins relatively slender, raised on the back.
Peduncle short. Spathe oblong-lanceolate, narrowly long, abruptly pointed. Spadix: the lower female inflorescence reaches the middle; the sterile neutral inflorescence accounts for 1/3 of the total length, with flowers scattered; ovary with 2 or 3 carpels, stigmas nearly separate.
Berry orange-yellow-green, 2-3 locular.
Ecological habits of Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta prefers a semi-shaded, warm, humid, and well-ventilated environment. It is not cold-tolerant, fears drought, and avoids strong direct sunlight. Dieffenbachia picta can endure 14 days in darkness and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Dieffenbachia picta avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging. It can generally be cultivated in ordinary garden soil, but sandy loam rich in humus and loose, well-drained soil is best.
Cultivation techniques of Dieffenbachia picta: daily cultivation
1. Temperature
The optimum growth temperature for Dieffenbachia picta is 25-30°C, with good results at 30°C during the day and 25°C at night. The tolerable growth range is 18-30°C from February to September and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. Because it is very intolerant of cold, it must be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. If the winter temperature is below 10°C, the leaves are prone to cold damage. In particular, when the winter temperature is below 10°C, excessive watering can also cause leaf drop and rot at the stem tip. If low temperature causes the plant to drop leaves but the stem has not rotted, then after the temperature rises, it can still grow new leaves.
2. Water
Dieffenbachia picta prefers moisture and fears dryness. The potting soil should be kept moist. During the growing period, it should be watered thoroughly, and water should be sprayed around the plant and misted onto the plant. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. In summer, maintain air humidity at 60%-70%, and in winter at about 40%. Soil moisture is best kept alternating between dry and wet. In summer, water more; in winter, watering must be controlled, otherwise if the potting soil is too wet, the roots rot easily and the leaves turn yellow and wither. For indoor display, wipe the leaf surface frequently with a soft cloth to keep the leaves clean and make them bright and radiant.
3. Light
Dieffenbachia picta tolerates shade and fears sun exposure. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and tips are prone to scorching, or even large areas may be burned. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green or fade. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful. Growth is most ideal at about 40%-60% sunlight. In spring and autumn, besides being able to see sunlight in the morning and evening, shading is needed around noon and in summer. Varieties with more green leaves are more shade-tolerant and cold-tolerant; therefore, the more milky-white markings a variety has, the more chlorophyll it lacks, and special attention should be paid to providing brighter light and especially to keeping it warm at low temperatures.
4. Growing medium
The cultivation soil for Dieffenbachia picta is best as fertile, loose, well-drained loam rich in organic matter. For potting soil, use a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand, for example, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part sawdust or peat, and 1 part sand. Pots of 15-20 cm are commonly used. After potted plants have grown for 1-2 years, there are more basal shoots, and division propagation can be carried out in conjunction with repotting. If the plant grows relatively tall, the aboveground part can be cut off leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant shape.
5. Fertilization
June to September is the vigorous growth period for Dieffenbachia picta. Apply cake fertilizer water once every 10 days, and after autumn begins, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 2 additional times. From spring to autumn, applying nitrogen fertilizer once every 1-2 months can promote glossy leaf color. If the room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing.
6. Pest and disease control
The main problems are bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, spray with 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for control.
Cultivation key points
It likes a hot, humid, semi-shaded environment and avoids strong sunlight. The optimum growth temperature is 18-25°C, and the winter growth temperature should be above 15°C; if below 10°C, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil. The leaves of Dieffenbachia picta are relatively broad, with different spots, markings, or patches on them. The colors are bright and strong, the tones are vivid, and it is verdant throughout the four seasons, elegant and beautiful. It is a refined indoor foliage plant and is also one of the indoor foliage plants currently highly praised. Using it to accent the living room, study, or bedroom gives a sense of tranquility and ease; it can also be combined with colorful foliage plants such as colorful bromeliads and peacock arrowroot to decorate windowsills, giving a sense of competing beauty; if combined with simple and bright furniture, it is even more mutually enhancing. Small pots can be placed on desks, tea tables, and bedroom tabletops; larger plants are suitable for arranging living rooms, meeting rooms, offices, etc. In darker rooms, it can be enjoyed for more than 4-6 weeks; in places near windowsills with relatively strong light, it can be appreciated year-round.
Winter management
1. Timely repotting. Generally, repotting is needed once in October. When repotting, remove aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in a mixture of 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat, and 1 part sand. After watering thoroughly, place in a shaded place for a few days, then move into a greenhouse or indoors.
2. Scientific watering. Dieffenbachia picta prefers a high-humidity environment. In winter, the potting soil for overwintering indoors should alternate between dry and wet, and must not be too dry. If the potting soil is too dry, the leaf tips will turn yellow and scorched and die, or even the entire plant will wither. The main reason is that the roots cannot absorb water. Therefore, in winter, keep the air humid and the potting soil moist. Generally, watering once a week is appropriate, and the leaves should also be washed once with lukewarm water to keep the leaf color bright.
3. Suitable temperature and light. Dieffenbachia picta likes high temperatures and fears cold, so it must be moved indoors for overwintering in October. The temperature should be maintained at about 15°C. It requires sufficient light and good ventilation. Temperatures below 10°C or excessive moisture often cause leaf drop, or even rot at the stem tip; too weak light will cause the leaves to fade. Usually wipe the leaf surface with a soft cloth to remove dust and increase ornamental value.
Light: tolerates semi-shade, avoids excessively strong sunlight, but too dark light can also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: prefers moisture, and during the growing period from March to August it should be watered more. In summer, sprinkle water frequently to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: likes high temperatures, is not cold-tolerant, and the optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C. The minimum overwintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: during the growing period of Dieffenbachia picta, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth; from March to August, apply fertilizer water once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil
4. Pest and disease control. To grow Dieffenbachia picta well in winter, pest and disease control must also be done well. Its main diseases are leaf spot and anthracnose. Besides ensuring ventilation, light transmission, and that the potting soil is not too wet, spray with 0.5 to 1% Bordeaux mixture or 1500-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate for control; the main pest is brown soft scale, which can be controlled by scraping or spraying with 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.
Cold protection measures
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, Dieffenbachia picta is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not treated promptly, it can cause death.
Slight cold damage: the leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if lacking water. At this time, move Dieffenbachia picta to a warmer place so that it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise suddenly after damage, so as to avoid wilting of the leaves.
Mild cold damage: in addition to drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches resembling scalding by boiling water. When handling, cut off the cold spots on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
Moderate cold damage: most of the leaves show cold spots, and the petioles show water-soaked patches and lose green color. At this time, cut off the leaves together with the petioles, smear the wounds with plant ash or coal ash, then place in a warm place, appropriately control watering, and let it slowly return to normal.
Severe cold damage: young branches and new leaves lose green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is frozen and rots. The plant should be dug up promptly, the underground parts cut off, and the damaged branches and stems cut off. After smearing the wounds with plant ash, store in moist plain sand, and carry out cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and disease spots appear on the entire plant, then the hope of saving it is very small, and replacing the plant should be considered.
How to grow Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta is native to the tropical and subtropical regions of South America. It prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment, is not cold-tolerant, fears drought, and although it likes sufficient sunlight, it also fears strong direct sunlight, so it can be grown in a place with bright light but no direct sunlight.
The optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 25°C. Because the leaf area is large, water evaporation is also high. In the growing season, besides watering heavily, also spray water on the leaves frequently to increase air humidity and prevent scorching of the leaf margins. Apply once every 10 days or so a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer. In winter, place it indoors in bright light, appropriately reduce watering, and maintain a room temperature above 10°C. If there is heating in the room, spray the plant with water at a temperature close to room temperature, so as to avoid affecting plant growth due to dry air.
Because this species seldom grows side branches on its own, during cultivation it can be pinched back or pruned to control plant height, maintain a beautiful plant shape, and promote side buds, so as to achieve the goal of producing more flowers. After the flowers fade, remove the spent flowers promptly to avoid consuming too many nutrients and affecting plant growth. After the flowering period, the plant has a dormancy period of 4 to 6 weeks. Watering should be moderated and fertilization stopped. At the end of the dormancy period, repot once. The potting soil should be rich in humus and have good air permeability. It can be prepared by mixing leaf mold or peat soil with 1/3 vermiculite or perlite. After repotting, place the plant in a warm, semi-shaded place, keep the soil and air moist, and wait for new branches to sprout.
Propagation of Dieffenbachia picta can be done by taking leaf-bearing stem segments for cuttings in early summer, or by using root buds or root eyes for cuttings in winter and spring. After insertion, keep the soil moist and the air humidity high. At 25°C, rooting is very easy.
Propagation methods of Dieffenbachia picta
Conventional propagation of Dieffenbachia picta commonly uses division and cuttings, but cuttings are the main method. Sometimes sowing propagation can be used, and large-scale propagation often uses tissue culture.
Division propagation
The basal shoots can be used for division propagation, generally carried out in spring together with repotting. During operation, take the plant out of the pot, cut off the rhizome at the stem base, smear it with plant ash to prevent rot, or leave it for half a day until the cut surface dries before potting, then water thoroughly; after planting, watering should not be excessive. It can resume growth in about 10 days.
Cutting propagation
Cuttings are best taken during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut off 7-10 cm of the stem tip, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, coat the cut with plant ash or sulfur powder, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and place in semi-shade with about 50%-60% sunlight. At a room temperature of 24-30°C, roots form 15-25 days after insertion. After new buds sprout on the stem segments, transplant into pots. Old basal stem segments can also be cut into stem sections with 3 nodes and inserted vertically 1/3 into the soil, or laid horizontally in the soil to induce rooting and budding.
The sap of Dieffenbachia picta is toxic. Its English name DUMB CANES means dumb cane, referring to its toxic stem; accidental ingestion causes severe pain in the tongue and makes it impossible to speak, so attention should be paid. During cutting operations, do not let the sap contact the skin, and especially do not let it enter the mouth, otherwise it will cause skin itching and pain or other poisoning phenomena. After the operation, wash hands with soap.
Disease control of Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta mainly suffers from bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, and can be sprayed with 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder.
Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, spray with 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for control.
Variety classification of Dieffenbachia picta: common varieties
1. Dieffenbachia amoena
The leaf surface has milky-white stripes and patches along the lateral veins.
2. Dieffenbachia seguine 'Camille'
The center of the deep green leaf surface is milky yellow-green, the leaf margins and main veins are dark green, and there are milky-white stripes and patches along the lateral veins.
3. Dieffenbachia 'White Etna'
The central part of the leaf is entirely milky white, and only the leaf margins and veins are irregularly silver.
Distribution area of Dieffenbachia picta
Dieffenbachia picta is native to Brazil in South America. It is commonly cultivated in tropical cities in Guangdong and Fujian, China, and some have become naturalized.
Dieffenbachia picta is mainly distributed in South America, and in Guangdong and Fujian, China.
The role and uses of Dieffenbachia picta: potting uses
The leaf color of Dieffenbachia picta is mottled and lovely, with patterns like the stripes on a zebra, and the flower shape is peculiar and the colors bright and brilliant. It is an excellent indoor potted flower that can be enjoyed both for its foliage and its flowers, suitable for small and medium pots, placed on desks, stands, windowsills, balconies, and other places in a room.
Decorative applications
Young plants in small pots can be placed on desks and windowsills for viewing. Medium potted plants can be placed in living room corners or beside sofas as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. The leaves of Dieffenbachia picta are broad, yellow-green, with dense irregular white or yellow-white spots, and some are golden yellow with green edges. The colors are bright and strong, graceful and elegant, with high ornamental value. It is one of the indoor foliage plants currently highly praised, suitable for potted viewing, and very comfortable and elegant when accenting living rooms and studies. When used in public places with relatively low light, Dieffenbachia picta still grows normally, with green leaves and luxuriant branches, full of vitality, and is especially suitable for placement in modern buildings.
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of Dieffenbachia picta
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahu.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow doctor's orders.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow doctor's orders. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
[Medicinal name]: Dieffenbachia picta
[Source]It is the whole plant of Dieffenbachia seguine, a dicotyledonous medicinal plant in the Araceae family.
[Efficacy]Clearing heat and detoxifying.
[Main indications]Used for traumatic injuries, tendon rupture and fractures, metal wounds, sprains and contusions, sores and boils, erysipelas, carbuncles and abscesses, and other conditions.
[Nature, flavor and meridian entry]Bitter, cold. Enters the Heart meridian.
[Usage and dosage]Internal use: decocted in water, 3 to 10 grams. External use: an appropriate amount pounded and applied to the affected area, fresh material being especially suitable.
[Textual research]First recorded in "Flora of Guangzhou".
Toxic components
This species is a toxic plant included in the Chinese Plant Atlas Database. Its toxicity is such that the whole plant is toxic, with the stem being the most toxic, followed by the petiole and leaves. This plant is the most toxic in the Araceae family. When its sap contacts the skin, it causes itching and dermatitis; swallowing a small piece of the stem causes extreme stinging pain in the mouth and throat,
and leads to vocal cord paralysis, hence the name "dumb cane"; there are also burns of the epithelium of the lips and tongue, edema, copious salivation, and impaired swallowing and breathing. Symptoms can last for several days or more than a week. In severe cases, swelling of the mouth and tongue can cause suffocation. Sometimes nausea, vomiting and diarrhea occur. The oral LD50 of Dieffenbachia seguine in guinea pigs is: stem sap 600-900 mg/kg, petiole sap greater than 1440 mg/kg; the intraperitoneal injection LD50 of stem sap is 1000 mg/kg, while it is non-toxic when administered by gavage.
The symptoms of poisoning in animals are similar to those in humans. Oral administration of its sap or extract causes salivation, lacrimation, swelling of the tongue, and slow pulse, and due to swelling of the glottis, difficulty in breathing and suffocation occur. Occasionally there are tonic convulsions, followed by death. Dropping the sap into rabbit eyes causes conjunctivitis and keratitis; when dropped into the oral cavity of rats and causing poisoning, histological observation of the tongue shows edema, vascular congestion, basement membrane degeneration and inflammatory reactions, which may be related to histamine release. The leaves of this plant, roasted wilted over a fire or made into an ointment with the sap and applied externally, can relieve water retention and swelling. Freshly pressed sap of Dieffenbachia seguine can cause infertility, while having no special effect on the sexual organs.
Landscape uses of Dieffenbachia seguine
Dieffenbachia seguine has many horticultural varieties, and the patterns on the leaves differ among varieties.
Dieffenbachia seguine is an evergreen shrub-like herb with thick, fleshy stems, and the plant height can reach 1.5 m. The leaves are large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, with acuminate apex and entire margins, 20-50 cm long and 5-15 cm wide; the broad leaves are dark green on both surfaces, inlaid with dense, irregular spots, markings or patches of varying colors such as white, milky white and pale yellow; the leaf sheath has a petiole below near the middle. The peduncle emerges from the leaf axil, shorter than the petiole; the flowers are unisexual, in a spadix inflorescence, with the spathe elliptic and tubular at the lower part.
Cultural background and origin of the name of Dieffenbachia seguine
The leaves of the zebra leaf Dieffenbachia are long elliptic, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on the leaf blades on both sides of the green main vein, appearing especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra leaf Dieffenbachia.
The flower language of Dieffenbachia seguine
The flower language of Dieffenbachia seguine: a passionate and cheerful lover.
Bright leaf color, vigorous vitality, and a bright and lively personality. It can endow its owner with the decisiveness and drive to change things.
Pictures of Dieffenbachia seguine