Complete Guide to Caring for Dracaena fragrans Grown in Water
1. Key points for selecting Dracaena fragrans material for water culture
Choose a small, healthy, vigorous soil-grown plant and convert it to water culture using the root-washing method; it is best to add ceramsite to the container, and white tender water roots will grow after 2 weeks. Alternatively, from May
to September, select a leaf-bearing top shoot and root it directly in water; new roots will grow in about 20 days.
2. Key points for caring for Dracaena fragrans in water culture
At the beginning of water culture, change the clean water every 2 to 3 days, and then gradually extend the interval between water changes. When the plant shows strong growth, move it to a place with plenty of scattered light and use
foliage plant nutrient solution for growing it; change the nutrient solution every 2 to 3 weeks. For variegated varieties, also frequently spray the leaves with a 0.1% dilute potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, other-
-wise the markings will gradually fade, greatly reducing their ornamental value. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaves to prevent the leaf tips and leaf margins from drying out and scorching.
During the vigorous growth period, pruning can be done appropriately to control plant height and shape the plant, and aging, withered leaves at the lower part of the leaf cluster should be cut off promptly. In summer, increase the number of
leaf sprays to prevent direct strong sunlight. In winter it can receive sunlight; when the room temperature is not lower than 18°C it can continue to grow, and when it is lower than 13°C it enters a dormant state; when it is lower than
5°C, cold damage such as dry tips of old leaves and blackening and gradual rotting of the center of leaf buds easily occurs.
How to grow Dracaena fragrans: cultivation methods and precautions for Dracaena fragrans / Brazilian iron tree / Brazilian millennium tree / fragrant dragon blood tree
Dracaena fragrans is an evergreen tree in the Liliaceae family. It grows over 6 m tall; as a potted plant it is 50 cm to 150 cm tall, with branches; the leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40 cm to 90 cm long and 6 cm to 10 cm wide, curved in an arch shape, bright green and glossy. The flowers are small and inconspicuous, fragrant, and it is a famous new-generation indoor foliage plant. The plant form is graceful and neat, and it is slightly shade-tolerant. It likes high temperatures; below 13°C the plant goes dormant and stops growing. It likes loose, well-drained soil; use leaf mold or peat soil for potting. Propagate by cuttings; large quantities of cuttings are all imported from abroad. Cuttings require relatively high temperatures. It likes semi-shade sunlight and ample fertilizer. Commonly cultivated plants in the same genus include: Dracaena deremensis, lucky bamboo, Dracaena godseffiana, and Dracaena draco.
Growth habits of Dracaena fragrans
Dracaena fragrans likes a hot and humid climate. It is highly adaptable to light and can grow with slight shade or in sunlight, but in spring, autumn, and winter it should receive more sunlight, while in summer it should be shaded or placed indoors in a well-ventilated spot. Dracaena fragrans has strong vitality; it needs only sunlight, air, and very little water, and can live well on its own potential energy. Dracaena fragrans is drought-tolerant but not waterlogging-tolerant. During the growing season it can be watered thoroughly. Dracaena fragrans fears cold and freezing, so in winter it should be placed indoors in a sunny place, and the temperature should be maintained at 5°C to 10°C.
Propagation methods for Dracaena fragrans
Propagation can use the cutting method or the water culture method, with May to August being the most suitable.
After several years of planting, the Brazilian iron stems may become too large or the lower leaves of the stems may fall off, reducing their ornamental value.
The stem can be cut about 10 cm above the pot surface, and then the stem can be cut into 5 to 10 cm sections as cuttings.
A wooden barrel or large flowerpot can be filled with coarse sand or vermiculite to make a simple cutting bed.
Insert 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting into the sand in an upright manner;
or lay the entire cutting on its side in coarse sand at a semi-lying angle, leaving about 1 to 2 cm exposed above the sand surface. The lower 1/3 or so of the cutting can also be soaked in water.
Spray water frequently to maintain relatively high humidity in the cutting bed;
A temperature of 21 to 24°C favors rooting and sprouting of cuttings. Leaf-bearing top shoots root relatively quickly, and can be rooted and potted in 3 to 4 weeks;
stem sections root somewhat slowly, sometimes requiring 2 to 3 months.
On the mother plant from which the stem was cut, several latent buds below the cut can sprout into new branches.
When the shoots are more than 15 cm tall, cut them off for cuttings, and they can be rooted and potted in 2 to 3 weeks.
For leaf cuttings, take a complete leaf and insert it into a sterilized substrate. With the same management, it can also root in about two months. About 40 days after transplanting, new shoots will sprout at the junction of root and leaf, and after growing they become independent plants.
Key points for planting Dracaena fragrans
As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Dracaena fragrans can grow all year round.
During high temperatures in summer, appropriate shading is needed, and in winter the room temperature must not be lower than 5°C.
But it is best to let it go dormant in winter; the dormancy temperature is 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on leaf tips and margins.
When placing Dracaena fragrans indoors, it should be in a place with ample light.
If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaves will turn green, the basal leaves will yellow, and it will lose its ornamental value.
During the growing period, keep the water clean and water 1 to 2 times a week; the water should not be too much, to prevent the trunk from rotting.
During high temperatures in summer, spraying can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.
Dracaena fragrans likes high temperatures, high humidity, and ample sunlight; if it is too shady, the leaf color will fade.
In summer it requires semi-shade, and alkaline soil should be avoided.
For potting soil, leaf mold or peat soil should be used, with about 1/4 river sand or perlite and a small amount of fully decomposed organic fertilizer added.
Loose soil, good drainage, and rich organic matter are beneficial to its growth.
During the growing period, apply a dilute fertilizer solution mainly of phosphorus and potassium once about every half month, to prevent excessive vegetative growth and the leaf colors from turning back to green.
Repot and change the soil every year in early spring, and apply sufficient base fertilizer.
Brazilian iron stems have strong adaptability and strong drought resistance; they will not die of dryness even if not watered for several days.
But to grow well, they must have a sufficient water supply.
Especially in summer during vigorous growth, they must not lack water. Place the flowerpot in a sunny indoor area; if the temperature is suitable and water and fertilizer are appropriate, it can grow all year round.
Only when the temperature is below 13°C does the plant go dormant and stop growing; at this time watering should be reduced, keeping it alternately moist and dry, and topdressing should be stopped.
Low temperature is the main cause of leaf drop in winter.
Irregular watering, or insufficient nutrient supply, plus dry indoor air, or excessive fertilization, are all physiological diseases that cause leaf tip scorching. When leaf scorch occurs, treat it according to the specific situation.
If it is due to insufficient water and fertilizer supply, spray it with water 2 to 3 times a day, spray the leaves once a week with a 0.1% ammonium sulfate or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, and sometimes move it outdoors to receive morning sunlight.
When the weather becomes warmer, switch to a larger pot, replace the soil, and replant it; afterward it will grow more white roots and continue to grow vigorously.
If it is due to excessive fertilization, immediately change to new soil, rinse the roots with water close to the air temperature, and then replant.
Brazilian iron stems tolerate pruning; as long as the top or upper stems are cut off, latent buds below the cut will grow new branches and leaves, and 1 to 5 buds can sprout at the same time, then grow into individual plants.
Pest and disease control for Dracaena fragrans
Dracaena fragrans sometimes shows phenomena such as scorched leaf margins and withered leaf tips; these are mostly physiological diseases caused by drought, excessively low temperature, improper watering and fertilization, and so on. The control methods are: improve cultivation management, control temperature and humidity, fertilize reasonably, and provide appropriate ventilation.
Dracaena fragrans leaves should always be kept clean, and once pests occur, remove the pests promptly. The sugarcane borer moth is relatively harmful to Dracaena fragrans; the affected Dracaena fragrans can be moved outdoors to a shaded place and sprayed with a 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate or an 800-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon, once a week for 3 consecutive times.
Common leaf spot and anthracnose damage can be sprayed with a 1000-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder. Pests include scale insects and aphids, which can be killed by spraying with a 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.
Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge
Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge
Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques
1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?
Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants are sensitive to oxygen deficiency and need air regularly pumped into the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo appropriate acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
pothos, money tree, creeping button fern, sun god, arrowroot, little angel, Marian, snake plant, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.
2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine, and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.
3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?
Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate with each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market are only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.
4. Is more nutrient solution in the container better for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower root system, and it must not be too much. In general, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also must not be too little; if too little, the nutrient solution needs to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually it is enough to maintain a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep.
5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?
Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving types, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but because household hydroponic flowers are usually in a relatively poor light environment, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.
6. Do hydroponic flowers need one nutrient solution for each type of flower?
Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to select different nutrient solutions according to different major categories; of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.
7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?
Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponics.
8. Do flowers and fish kept together need to be fed?
Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die, and adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution turbid and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of flowers and fish.
9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?
Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once about every 15-20 days; when replenishing, just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.
10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?
Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use one that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience talk on household hydroponic flowers
As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor furnishings. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can stably remain above 80%.
1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proved that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Dieffenbachia picta, Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, spiderwort, Tradescantia zebrina, coleus, Dracaena fragrans, dwarf palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, and so on. In addition, scarlet sage, rhododendron, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and so on, these flowering plants have good results with hydroponics. Boston fern, calendula, petunia, and Excoecaria cochinchinensis have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.
2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials 1) Container. Any beautiful water-holding container can be used. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, and so on; the opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.
3. Time for hydroponics Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C to 28°C, foliage plants can be grown in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best grown when the first flower is in bud, such as cyclamen, hyacinth, rhododendron, camellia, and so on, often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.
4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full plant form, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and soil, wash the root soil clean with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that are already decayed and aged; for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (both to sterilize and disinfect and to promote new roots), and then carry out hydroponics. This method is mostly used for relatively large plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select current-year stout, pest-free semi-lignified branches, cut them off and insert them in water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made two or three millimeters below a stem node; the cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife (previously wiped and disinfected with liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to favor rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.
5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best; its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and it contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cool boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changes. Due to the normal growth and metabolism of plants, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning; much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7 to 10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4 to 6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15 to 20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; if too deep, it easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot; if too shallow, the roots easily lack water and growth is affected.
6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will grow. Along with the growth of the flower plant, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used for their specific purposes, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos and Dieffenbachia seguine.
Techniques for controlling pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers
Hydroponics escapes infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it is not grown in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and had their roots washed and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, and so on; if not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.
Because of the particularity of the display environment of static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also cause pollution to the environment.
Pests and diseases that may occur in hydroponic flowers should be mainly prevented. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose plants that are as robust, luxuriant, and pest-free as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed off with tap water. Infectious diseases occur relatively rarely in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so that it does not spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environment, excessive shading, too high nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause leaf tip scorching and yellowing and shedding of lower leaves in static hydroponic flowers. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is easily induced, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. Aiming at the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.
How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency in the root system, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the detached lower branch does not rot, it can also sprout new shoots at the stem node; at this time it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and so on can all use this method.
Complete handbook for household hydroponic flowers
Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants
1. Remove from the pot flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.
2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting cultivate them with nutrient solution.
3. Some flowers have runners (stolons) when growing, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pendant pineapple; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.
4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off root-bearing tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.
How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution
Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:
1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.
2. Choose a leak-proof cultivation container without a bottom hole that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flowers.
3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and all the mineral nutrients necessary for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:
(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.
(2) Trace elements: disodium EDTA 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).
The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.
Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.
To prepare nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water; of course, ordinary drinking tap water can also be used to prepare nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains unstable nutrient elements as the components in the water source change. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.
Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively large-diameter bucket for several days, and stir it with a wooden stick several times to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) can be added to 10 kg of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine-removal effect.
Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can favor the absorption of trace elements by flowers, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensure normal growth, and keep the leaves emerald green.
How to carry out foliar fertilization
Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilute solution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-nozzle spray pot should be used, try not to let the fertilizer solution run off, and the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with dense branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, calla lily, and so on, during the bud stage, spray the leaves once a week with a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilute solution until the flowers open.
Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers only change one way of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or from tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf margins, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and shedding; under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers have relatively strong cold resistance, such as ivy, periwinkle, and Senecio, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and scorch-like brown spots appear on leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, and coleus. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this point is also related to the decrease in dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.
Light requirements for hydroponic flowers
Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively ample light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.
Plant growth has phototropism, so the orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing toward one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.
Humid environment and good ventilation
Most foliage flowers originate from warm, humid environments. Static hydroponics also requires creating a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves (to prevent the mist from dampening furniture, you can move the flowers to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, then move them back indoors for display afterward); when spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle sprayer so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface without running off. For the firmer, waxy leaves of flowers such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a damp towel, which both increases leaf humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clear water beside them; the evaporated water can likewise increase the ambient humidity.
There must be a well-ventilated environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air stale, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people leave for work during the day without opening the doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, and their condition will worsen more and more, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have its doors and windows opened regularly to create air convection and let fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.
A room with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the dry air in the room will cause the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves to have scorched edges and withered leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, which lowers the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed especially need this work done well.
Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers
Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on the flowers, and the hatched larvae will also gnaw on the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and washed of soil and converted to static hydroponics likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae; if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.
Because of the particular nature of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these agents can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also cause pollution to the environment.
Pests and diseases that may occur on hydroponic flowers should be prevented first. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases of hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular circular water-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.
Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by strong sunlight, an environment with poor air circulation, excessive shading, too high a concentration of nutrient solution, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and the lower leaves to yellow and fall. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, and improve the cultivation environment to avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.
How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut the still-intact upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clear water, and after a period of care and management it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the branch with the detached lower end, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at that point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, golden pothos, Cordyline fruticosa, Syngonium podophyllum, and others can all use this method.
How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate to display
Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood and beautify the environment, and can also purify the air, so displaying a few plants is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are placed, the flowers will compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate, calculated by room area, to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.
How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter
Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":
First, choose flower species suitable for hydroponics. If you buy and water-cultivate species unsuitable for hydroponics, they will gradually die before long because their roots rot. Aquatic plants, hygrophytes, and a group of terrestrial plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant are all comparatively suitable for hydroponics, such as Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, golden pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, and so on.
Second, choose flower species with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, overwintering requires relatively high temperatures, and in an ordinary home it is difficult for them to overwinter safely, making them prone to freeze damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with slight cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, aloe, spider plant, Cyperus alternifolius, Chamaedorea elegans, Rhapis excelsa, and so on.
Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors lift soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so when purchasing you must distinguish them carefully. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.
Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with spirited, upright branches and leaves and full, lustrous leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.
The advantages of hydroponics
1. Simple daily management
The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need special care. Ordinarily you only need to spray water on the leaf surface in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surface, just wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.
2. Clean and stylish
Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-cultivated flowers, pollute our living environment because of pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are free from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them, and can appreciate not only the flowers and leaves but also the usually unseen process of root growth and their beauty in all kinds of forms, very neat and stylish.
3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate
Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through a planting basket to produce a water root system, nor does it need the earlier computer or electric field mutation induction; it only requires very simple technical treatment, and the soil-grown root system can quickly transform into a water root system. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit space, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are relatively low, it also allows more people to enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting basket is used, hydroponic flowers become even more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. Thus some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with differing degrees of difficulty.
4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together
"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic components, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store have been kept for a long time and still grow well, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well; practice has proved it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special components, the nutrient solution is not prone to breeding mosquitoes. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers at home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Facts have proved that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.
Selection of hydroponic flower species
The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as, under suitable light and temperature conditions, the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, the flowers can grow normally in water.
Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissue inside their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissue to the root parts of the plant for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen the plant needs from the air. Some flowers, although they have neither ventilating tissue nor aerial roots that absorb oxygen, are nevertheless very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower species that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and must not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.
Flower species adapted to hydroponics
Araceae
Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can take root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, and quickly form a plant shape with a certain ornamental quality; for plants cultivated in soil, after washing with water, most of the existing root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include golden pothos, Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver King', Aglaonema commutatum 'Golden Queen', Philodendron 'Congo', mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, Scindapsus aureus, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Syngonium podophyllum, Alocasia, Anthurium, and Dieffenbachia 'Camille', etc.
Commelinaceae
Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Tradescantia pallida, Tradescantia spathacea, Lophatherum gracile, Tradescantia zebrina, and so on; all can quickly take root and grow when propagated by water cuttings.
Liliaceae
The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, Aloe arborescens, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena, Dracaena sanderiana, Sansevieria trifasciata, Agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged Aglaonema, silver-edged Ophiopogon, and so on.
Crassulaceae
Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Aeonium 'Schwarzkopf', Pachyphytum, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Bryophyllum pinnatum, and so on.
In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Aucuba japonica, Cyperus alternifolius, Coleus, Gynura aurantiaca, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, Scindapsus aureus, Clivia, Paphiopedilum, Codiaeum variegatum, Senecio cineraria, Senecio articulatus, Pereskia, Rhaphidophora, Guzmania, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Euphorbia, Euphorbia tirucalli, Vinca major variegata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio, Hedera helix, Hedera helix, Rhapis excelsa, Chamaedorea elegans, and so on.
When selecting hydroponic flower species, in addition to considering that they must be able to adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:
Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high requirements for overwintering temperature. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and flowers such as Codiaeum variegatum require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; golden pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter this of course poses no problem, but for most households it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, because of low-temperature freeze damage the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, yellow, have scorched leaf tips or leaf margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause heavy leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no conditions for stable heating, you must pay attention to choosing flower species with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:
Flowers with strong cold resistance
For example, Aglaonema, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Rhapis excelsa, Agave, Aucuba japonica, Graptopetalum paraguayense, sea onion, Liriope variegata, and so on can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C.
Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance
For example, Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, Lophatherum gracile, aloe, spider plant, Pachyphytum, Cyperus alternifolius, Gynura aurantiaca, Senecio cineraria, Chloranthus, Euphorbia tirucalli, Vinca major variegata, Hedera helix, Chamaedorea elegans, and so on can overwinter safely with slight protection during overwintering.
Of course, although some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Syngonium podophyllum, golden pothos, Sansevieria trifasciata, Codiaeum variegatum, and so on are relatively difficult to overwinter safely, they are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so you can also consider buying and cultivating them in warm spring.
The issue of shade tolerance
Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Codiaeum variegatum, Tradescantia pallida, and Tradescantia zebrina need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa', Spathiphyllum 'Sensation', Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver King', and so on all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions within rooms differ, suitable flower species should be chosen according to the light conditions of the placement position, to ensure the normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, the branches and leaves of the plant will grow leggy, the stems will become thin, the internodes longer, the leaves smaller and deformed, lose green color and lose their proper luster, leaves with colored stripes will fade, and even a large number of leaves may drop, thus seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.
Techniques for water-growing spider plant
Spider plant has fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it also has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.
1. Container: The container bottle may be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower-layer bottle is a bottomless vessel; plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.
2. Taking seedlings: Remove potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clear water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest- or disease-affected leaves), and keep robust leaves, generally keeping 6 to 10 leaves.
3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the treated spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clear water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large grains) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clear water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.
4. Management:
① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until the water is full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clear water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.
② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added along with watering and water changing within the root zone; for foliar topdressing, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.
③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, a universal powder can be added to water and sprayed on the leaves.
④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent early flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.
The outstanding one among static hydroponics
Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2,500 species, originating in tropical Asia, produced in waters or swamps in forest regions. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and so on. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytic species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop ventilating tissue under stress environments.
When terrestrial plants are grown by static hydroponics, root respiration is in a state of severe oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
First, Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most advanced is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus tatarinowii, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and in appearance form a "negation" of the aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of the "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding ones in static hydroponics.
Second, Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families, and the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, along an approximately spiral curve.
Third, the relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales, Arecales, and Banaliales share a common ancestor (primitive lily types), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding ones in static hydroponics.
Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics
During hydroponics, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, too low temperature, overly concentrated fertilization, and disease can all cause root rot, and root rot will degrade water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system has yellowed and changed color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root collar area, and the epidermis will peel off very easily, leaving only the lignified part.
After root rot appears, it should be cut off in time. Generally root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tips; after pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.
Simple hydroponic facilities - bottles and jars and their cultivation management
Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), and so on, with slight tidying up, they can become hydroponic carriers of varying sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with a charm quite reminiscent of returning to nature.
I. Bottles and jars
1. Metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-laminated square beverage cartons, and so on were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.
2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "#"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilating function.
3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8 x 12 cm, of the kind used as clothing lining. Gently rinse the soil off the plant seedling to be hydroponically grown or a purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps left from making shoulder pads for jackets or cushions for sofas and chairs), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white), and so on, to thicken it so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup and anchor the plant. If none of the above is available, floral foam can also be appropriately cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapped around the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should ensure a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. By means of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system as nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time the distance from the liquid level to the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm or so.
4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae that compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent the liquid temperature from rising greatly due to exposure to sunlight, it is best to have shading measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.
II. Boxes and cases
1. Box body: Usually polystyrene white hard foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes and wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35 x 25 x 15 cm to 60 x 40 x 16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with a wooden board or foam board. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.
2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a piece of polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter for usual observation of the nutrient solution level and addition of nutrient solution.
3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.
4. Floating board: Take a piece of polystyrene foam board 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner clear area of the box and 2.5-3 cm thick as the floating board. Cut some small holes 1-2 cm in diameter in a regular pattern on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm thick when dry), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to absorb nutrient solution. If these cannot be obtained at all, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's root system can extend freely on the floating board, coming into more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution and oxygenate it.
5. Cultivation management:
(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. Just after planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.
(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to a complete renewal.
The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and a well-ventilated environment
Most foliage flowers originate from warm, humid environments. Static hydroponics also requires creating a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves (to prevent the mist from dampening furniture, you can move the flowers to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, then move them back indoors for display afterward); when spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle sprayer so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface without running off. For the firmer, waxy leaves of flowers such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a damp towel, which both increases leaf humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clear water beside them; the evaporated water can likewise increase the ambient humidity.
There must be a well-ventilated environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air stale, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people leave for work during the day without opening the doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, and their condition will worsen more and more, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have its doors and windows opened regularly to create air convection and let fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.
A room with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the dry air in the room will cause the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves to have scorched edges and withered leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, which lowers the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed especially need this work done well.
The light needed by hydroponic flowers
Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or in offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Codiaeum variegatum, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless; such flowers can maintain leaf color and luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not directly hit by strong light.
Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with and completed at the time of cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.
How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely
How hydroponic flowers overwinter
Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8°C, and tissues will become necrotic below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; and in the north, because most rooms have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.
Why hydroponic flowers need water changes
Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so after a period of growth hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need the soil changed once a year for this reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.
Hydroponic method for cyclamen
Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last one or two years. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants many cultivation and application forms; as soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, growing cyclamen in water is not difficult. First, choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. With the preparatory work complete, you can begin making the hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, take the purchased cyclamen potted flower together with the substrate (flower soil) and turn it out of the pot, place it under a faucet and rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water; you can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin of water and rinse the substrate off in the water, then rinse it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, and try as much as possible to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.
It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen tuber can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water level should be kept below the tuber. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water level.
In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one of the factors. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination of cyclamen plants. This depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.
Root-exposed hydroponic method for Hoya
Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through root-exposed hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: ① saves labor; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be appreciated, and so on.
The root-exposed hydroponic method is:
(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clear water, cut off withered leaves and pest- or disease-affected leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.
(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clear water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.
(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clear water once a day, and after one or two days spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; second, change the water once every fifteen days, and after changing the water add nutrient solution; third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.
(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.
There is a big difference between flower water culture and hydroponics
In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have won people's favor because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.
Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is enough simply to soak the root system in clear water for fixation, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change the water once every 7 to 10 days), to maintain sufficient oxygen content in the water and improve root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.
Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant's root fibers fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, with the root system immersed in water, and the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flower cultivation is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, spider plant, Schlumbergera, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema, Philodendron 'Congo', Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum pinnatum, and other plants.
Northeastern University in China adopted bioengineering mutation induction technology, and after 8 years of effort has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; both cacti and succulents, and flowering flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.
In truly well mutation-induced hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation induction, the plant's water root genes are expressed, so truly aquatic flower plants will have larger and thicker leaves, and the leaves and branches will be more tender than those grown in soil.
The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or change the nutrient solution once a week, and be careful to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.
A brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology
Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; a few commonly used ones are briefly described below.
Deep flow technique. Its characteristic is that the plant roots are fully or partially submerged in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.
Nutrient film technique (NFT). NFT technology was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to grow plants, and on this basis further improvements were made: the plastic bag is changed to a plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution forms a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film, white on the outside and black on the inside, wraps the plant, forming a dark space inside.
The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; the plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.
Aeroponics. After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant roots; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or intermittently in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and the plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.
Glass bottle hydroponics. A glass canning jar can be used for the aqueous solution; the surrounding area of the bottle is wrapped with black plastic film, or coated all over with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, so that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, make a hole in the middle, clamp the plant in it, cover the bottle with the cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, but it must not be too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water rooting to promote root growth, there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:
Changing the solution. For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowering plants, change it once a week during the peak growth period in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growing season.
Aeration. Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month without aeration.
Adding water. Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.
Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution. Commercially sold fertilizer tablets or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared yourself; the formulas are as follows:
Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)
Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.
Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)
Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.
Preparation method of trace element solution:
Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.
Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers
① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed with. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will take root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node; the cut surface should be smooth and must not have longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.
② Root washing method: Select ornamental, robust-growing flowers already formed by soil cultivation (or cultivation in other media), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then switch to hydroponics. It is best to use running water when washing the roots. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared container and add tap water to cover 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and also wash the roots and container at the same time; after one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, this indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.
③ Stripping off tiller buds method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia, bromeliads, and others. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select larger tiller buds, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller buds from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller buds), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate them hydroponically.
④ Picking off small plantlets on runners method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and one to many small plantlets grow on the runners. Most small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plants and staghorn ferns, which both have this characteristic. Taking advantage of this feature of the flowers, picking off formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.
For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen, purple-backed oyster plant, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, hyacinths, amaryllis, and gladiolus.
Summer care strategies for the difficult points of hydroponic flowers
1. Where are the difficult points in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated in non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient container. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.
Water-grown ribbon grass
2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?
Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.
1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution
Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.
For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most not more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.
When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new root growth.
If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.
2. Vibration for oxygen enrichment
For hydroponic flowers in smaller containers, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to hold the flower with one hand and hold the container with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.
For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration oxygen enrichment method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.
3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers
According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is a flower cultivation container, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. When working, the nutrient solution circulates and flows within the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivation with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is obviously better than in static hydroponics.
The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution changed once every 30-35 days.
4. Aerate the container
If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump to connect a rubber tube, put the air stone into the static hydroponic flower container to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.
3. Where are suitable places to put hydroponic flowers in summer?
Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers grown for both flowers and leaves. Such as arrowhead plant, white-edge evergreen, Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, bromeliads, and others. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shaded, lest the flowers' photosynthesis be hindered, growth become weak, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thinner. This causes variegated and patterned flower leaves to lose their luster.
4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?
Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast wind speed will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It is also necessary to consider that the temperature requirement of flowers is higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.
When the air conditioner is turned on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase environmental humidity. If the flowers are placed farther from the air conditioner outlet and the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.
5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers have root rot?
Answer: As the temperature continuously rises, the water temperature will also rise, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improper addition of nutrient solution, causing excessively high dissolved concentration, may also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Liliaceae plants such as Cordyline fruticosa, Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), and rainbow dracaena.
For flowers with root rot, the following methods can be used to restore their growth:
① Remove all rotten roots; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.
② Soak the pruned flowers in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.
③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.
④ Place the washed flowers back into the original container and cultivate them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).
⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water and no nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots may sprout.
⑥ Newly sprouted roots should still be cultivated in clean water; wait until the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, then cultivate with nutrient solution.
6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?
Answer: Algae growth in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in the process of cultivating hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good container transparency, a bright environment, or leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long can all trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower root system hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.
Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the polluted solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the root system, and replace with new nutrient solution.
At present, scientists in China are researching a kind of “algae-eating insect” that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural “nemesis” of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of “algae-eating insects” into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae growth.
Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chance of algae growth.
7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless cultivation. The flower root system is anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.
Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six bottles, or even more than a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers are cultivated at the same time, and the varieties are all different, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matched plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.
General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are conducive to nutrient absorption.
There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.
In summer, opinions differ on whether to cultivate with nutrient solution or only with clean water. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively heat-tolerant and robust in growth, cultivate with nutrient solution; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, cultivate only with clean water. For example, Spathiphyllum, pothos, mini Monstera deliciosa, red emerald philodendron, and Philodendron, cultivation with nutrient solution is suitable for maintaining growth advantages and enhancing ornamental quality. Flowers such as coleus, begonia, and bromeliads can safely pass the summer with just a bottle of clean water.
When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouted in hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; excessive concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.
In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.
8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?
Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn. At this time, the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and they easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties closely related to hygrophytic flowers. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as arrowhead plant, mini Monstera deliciosa, red emerald philodendron, giant taro, pothos, and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.
When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the root system from damage or minimizing damage, cultivate in a larger-capacity container, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with low-concentration plant nutrient solution.
Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo
Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.
Characteristics
Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common ones include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo banana, is a small plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.
Habits
Likes high temperature and high humidity, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch, so during the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.
2: Suitable for ample scattered light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.
Hydroponic method for Anthurium
Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as anzu flower and lampstand flower.
Characteristics
Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.
Habits
Likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment, and avoids direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, and overwintering should be above 10 degrees.
Propagation
Division, tissue culture.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.
2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.
Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials
Use the potted root washing method.
Hydroponic method for azaleas
The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated crown structure was compact, with abundant flowering; flower diameter was large, and there were few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.
1. Preparation of substrate
Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate air permeability and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part pearl sand, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, and after drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used in pots.
2. Preparation of nutrient solution
Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.
Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.
Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace element stock solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength elements. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.
3. Water and fertilizer management
Because the substrate has good drainage and air permeability, but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally greater than in soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist; at this time, it is during bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, and the fertilizer requirement is relatively large, so apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; in addition to watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the weather cools in autumn, the fertilizer amount can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month and spraying foliar fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote robust growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilizer should not be applied; just water appropriately depending on whether the substrate is dry or wet. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.
Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm
Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.
Characteristics
Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, and covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.
Habits
Likes a warm, shaded, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, and in winter it should be kept above 4 degrees; it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees.
Propagation
Generally by division combined with repotting. Select plants with large clumps and dense stems. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, try to cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants in a certain plant shape, then repot them. After watering thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, and often spray water on the leaves. After growth resumes, they can be transferred to normal care.
Sowing: after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge in spring of the following year.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves easily occur; when ventilation is poor, parasites breed.
2: During the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.
Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials
Potted root washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, taking as long as one and a half months.
Hydroponic method for velvet plant
Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.
Characteristics
Velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick and many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. Velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant coloration, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.
Habits
Velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca) likes plenty of sunlight, but during the high temperatures of summer and autumn it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment; direct sunlight will cause sunscald and scorch the leaves, but in too much shade the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.
Propagation
Velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During the growing season, select sturdy branches and cut 10 cm long stem tips as cuttings; after planting, place them in a shaded, moist spot, and they will root in 2~3 weeks. Once the cuttings have grown, pinch them back promptly to encourage side shoots to sprout.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: You can cut branches and put them in water, and water roots will grow in just over 10 days. But in high summer temperatures the roots rot easily.
2: Velvet plant grows quickly; when the branches reach the appropriate height, pinch them back promptly to encourage new shoots to sprout.
Hydroponic method for parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
Family Arecaceae, genus Chamaedorea, also known as dwarf coconut palm, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.
Characteristics
Evergreen small tree, short in stature. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring markings. The leaves cluster at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20~40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green and glossy.
Habits
Likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growing temperature is 20~30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3°C.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but in too much shade the leaf color will also fade.
2: Parlor palm looks most beautiful at a plant size of 30~50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the bare lower part reduces its ornamental value, so when growing it you can plant small plants below it.
Obtaining hydroponic material
Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots will grow within a few days.
Hydroponic method for cactus (ball cactus)
We know that ball cacti are favored for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because ball cacti are grown by traditional methods they suffer from being dirty and hard to manage, and more people end up killing their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now ball cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.
1: Selecting the mother plant
First we must choose a ball cactus with a sturdy body; the key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem section protrudes downward. Ball cacti grown by grafting onto three-ridged sword cactus are even easier to grow hydroponically.
2: Treatment
After choosing the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots at the bottom of the ball, making sure the cut is flat. Then rinse the soil clinging to the root-stem section clean with water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so the cut is completely dry.
3: Hydroponics
Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or make one from a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated ball cactus at the mouth of the bottle with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the level of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem section. In production we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (a transparent vessel makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem section), preparing a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and cutting several small triangular holes in the board with a sharp knife (for fixing golden barrel cactus you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can come out through the cut opening, then place it in a flat container with nutrient solution). Insert the three-ridged sword cactus into the triangular holes; at this point the roots of all the three-ridged sword cacti just touch the liquid surface.
4. Post-hydroponic treatment
Buy two magnets 6-10 cm in diameter and put them into the vessel, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the growth of water roots. (You can also buy from the market a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution container, and switch on the power to achieve a flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)
5: Key points for hydroponic care
Place the planted ball cactus in an environment with fairly strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will appear in 3-7 days. Once water roots appear, replace the nutrient solution immediately.
Note:
During the induction process, never spray water on the ball of the cactus, as this easily causes the ball to rot and die.
What should be noted when growing clivia (Clivia miniata) hydroponically at home
Hydroponic clivia is a both hygienic and simple cultivation method. When growing it at home, note the following:
① Container choice. The bottom of the growing container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so you can enjoy the leaves, the flowers and also its root system. You can use a glass bottle, or a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth should not be too wide.
② The growing solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when growing in clean water you need to apply foliar fertilizer to supply the nutrients clivia needs for growth.
③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes; the frequency depends on the weather. When the temperature is lower, change it about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change it once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the growing container clean.
How to grow amaryllis (Hippeastrum) hydroponically scientifically
In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all the roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green parts, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy material at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade and put them into a flower vessel. The vessel can be a bowl, a basin or a narcissus basin, etc.; put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days); the depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other filler, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the vessel, and finally place it in a spot indoors with plenty of light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7~10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots to form. The water in the basin must always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2~3 cm, fertilizer must be added promptly; every 10~20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with their roots into a flowerpot for routine care. Bulbs treated hydroponically in this way will bloom a little later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer period when flowers are scarce.
Technical management of hydroponics
1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless culture or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and its supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. To fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since mankind has had a history of cultivation, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is Agrculfure, a combination of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water and garden soil leachate, to grow mint, and the mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, so he concluded that “plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil”. Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations of the time, Woodward did not carry out further research. It was not until 1859--1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first carried out precise experiments in soilless culture and succeeded in growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts; they called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless culture technology.
◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless culture technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.
◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless culture is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control the humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test in real time the PH of the nutrient solution and the balance of each element. But in a home environment these conditions are very hard to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate culture, there is no aesthetic difference from soil culture, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless culture; and without a medium, plants easily develop rotten roots and a bad smell; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid rotten roots and bad smells, have no peculiar smell, and still grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution be able to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation place higher technical demands on the nutrient solution.
Since mankind mastered soilless culture technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, because of commercial interests, the major flower companies all regard their own nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas available from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home use can be known at a single try; you only need to see whether the plants on display are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: “Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!”
◆4. How do hydroponic flowers overwinter safely?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will necrose. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius, and if there are a few days of extreme low temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most homes have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.
◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all the common popular flowers we see can be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown, and in homes with a balcony there are more suitable varieties.
◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and usual feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the “Hydroponic Flower King” nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for keeping fish, and because the volume is limited, the fish species should also be chosen selectively. You should choose some fish species with strong adaptability, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Some fish with strong aggression or destructiveness are also unsuitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even keeping them in a dedicated aquarium is hard to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor small vase. Changing the water can be done at the same time as the normal water change for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the “Hydroponic Flower King” nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of the water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally do not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.
◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, generally tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test must be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water; if the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During dilution, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will make the chlorine in tap water evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, let the diluted nutrient solution stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from being damaged at the root hairs by the sudden temperature change and causing the plant to wilt.
◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient water. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water: in order to protect itself, its root tips grow deeper into the soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow more randomly, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, at a gap of about 1—2 cm, and do not water the potted plant but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week the bottom of the potted plant will show roots growing toward the water. At this point you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove from its pot a plant that has already grown water roots and fix the plant with a planting basket, embellish it with stones or decorations, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this point, because there is no soil, you have to replace the clean water with nutrient solution, and that is all there is to it.
◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need a water change?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become less and less, and at the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and need the soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter in the vigorous growing spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.
◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or too weak light. If these factors are ruled out, then see whether the nutrient solution level is too high so that the plant roots cannot breathe normally and suffer from lack of oxygen; if none of these is the case, then we suggest you had best go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for advice.
Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from fake hydroponic flowers
At present many companies are recruiting franchisees for hydroponic flower stores, causing a great commotion across the country; in particular, a company in Beijing will have franchise stores all over the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to say much, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, having witnessed everything I cannot help but air some complaints. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Right now it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed and then directly soaked in water can be kept in water for a period; plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can be kept in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot and plant physiological respiration strengthens, oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought home for tens or hundreds of yuan is only a fleeting show, which not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now let us use a scientific eye to reveal the "deception tricks" involved.
1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth and their respiration weakens, and moreover Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance, so after root washing and direct soaking in water, for a time no
2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a form of commercial hype. If the goods are genuine and the price fair, there is nothing to criticize; if the technology is unique, it can also dominate the market and franchising would truly be meaningful. But today this kind of franchising can be called a swindle. First, the technology has no scientific or technical content at all - it is just washing roots and soaking them in water, something even a fool could replicate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower shops can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is as good as gone. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suited to long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now is all soil-grown seedlings with washed roots. It would be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.
3. Tip: Araceae plants can, in late autumn, winter and early spring, have their roots washed and be kept in water for a period of time. Everyone might as well give it a try - there is absolutely no need for any "induction liquid."
I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries abroad with relatively advanced hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of every kind, a jumble of the genuine and the fake. But in the end, these franchise tricks will be swept out of the game by history and science. A reminder to everyone: keep your eyes open and do not be led astray by "induction liquids."
How to Tell Genuine Hydroponic Flowers from Fake Ones
Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower dealers do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants to sell, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some members of the public buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological maladjustment before long, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following ways to avoid being cheated.
A. Judge by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots and root hairs - that is, they will not exist as multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is some branching, it is only a small amount of forked roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few orders and a simple root structure. This is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some plants that originally have a radicle, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the proportion of roots rises greatly, with a profuse, well-developed root system like a beard.
B. Judge by root color: Plant water roots formed through aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white, crisp and tender. Even for varieties whose roots show their natural color, the water roots are noticeably lighter in color than land roots - for example, yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, and so on. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that the cells have undergone no or little suberization and lignification from thickened cell walls.
C. Judge by root integrity: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction regrow and differentiate starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. Some soil-cultivated plants, even when carefully rinsed, always have slight damage or serious root remnants. This root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.
D. Judge by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the roots have not developed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions carry out anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or spoil. Visually, it appears turbid and unclear - that is, water quality deteriorates or turns foul, and then the roots rot until the plant dies.
E. Leaf angle can also help judge authenticity: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, show noticeably more flat leaf attachment angles than soil-washed seedlings grown in soil - that is, epinastic growth causes the angle to increase, or even droop.
Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Hydroponic Nutrient Solution
Apart from light, temperature and humidity, for which hydroponic flowers have exactly the same environmental requirements as soil cultivation, the management requirements for water, fertilizer and oxygen are worlds apart. Water: Home-grown hydroponic flowers should use soft water as their water source; generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation and sterilization treatment; it is clean and hygienic, with a pH below 7, and can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water and well water are polluted to varying degrees, severely eutrophic, and the various ions may differ greatly. If any one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or poison them to death, so these are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home-grown hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of elements and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have an appropriate pH, which helps nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizers or granular chemical fertilizers and use them for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. It is even more unacceptable to use organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home-grown hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse and extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen to breathe. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, and especially important in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Oxygenation by shaking: hold the flower plant steady with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution, or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or an oxygen pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. In such an environment, plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.
Spot Fake Hydroponic Flower Technology at a Glance
Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish grown together and a combination of movement and stillness, are their first intuitive impression. The early concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people had earlier grown some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo and other easily water-grown plants in water, that concept does not belong to today's popular "hydroponic flower" concept!). It arose in 2003, when many enterprises and institutions with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning for this industry. Combined with broadcasts of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China: some offered technical study and training, some had production bases, and some franchised flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises and individuals, spurred by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype around the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many members of the public learn about and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became sacrifices to this market tide. By 2006, after the great wave washed away the sand, those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide - and those who survived were very few. Nevertheless, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by the economic interests of the market economy, a small number of speculators still exist in the market!
The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:
II. What Are Truly Hydroponic Flowers?
From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the range of species for hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody plants, vines, succulents and so on), and a few cute little fish kept below - that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly hydroponic flowers refer to plants cultivated through various biological, physical, computer-based and other technical means so that the physiological traits of their root systems change, giving them water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue and enabling them to adapt to long-term cultivation in water. Only then can they become truly hydroponic flowers (plants)!
III. How to Identify Truly Hydroponic Flowers?
Judging by the senses:
Report on the Current State of Hydroponic Flower Technology. I. Introduction:
For a successful, truly hydroponic plant, the root system after induction and acclimation should be white and graceful, with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants, whose roots are mostly dark black in color! (Except for the few plants whose roots have a distinctive color - for example, after induction, the Chinese fringeflower has roots, branches and stem sections all deep red! Some plants also have roots that are nearly white after the soil is removed!)
In addition, if the plant's growth is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and placed there to fool customers! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as merchandise!
Judging by technology:
Judging by technology:
1) Does it have a professional technical level?
If, as some merchants say, all you need is the so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid" or "nutrient solution," and you soak the plant in water for a few days or a few hours - some even say just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes is enough to achieve hydroponic flowers - such a claim only fools those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the roots of a plant are severely deprived of oxygen in water, before long the roots will carry out anaerobic respiration, then ferment and rot. Thus a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects breed, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of a plant's water root system has truly been achieved, forming aerenchyma tissue and adapting well to the low-oxygen state in water, can a hydroponic plant truly deserve to be called a hydroponic flower. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully accomplished and realized by nutrient solution alone. It requires a combination of biological, physical, computer-based and many other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only when it has fully adapted to the water environment can it become a professional, truly hydroponic flower!
2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?
Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: an artistic combination and arrangement, with each product consisting of an artistic glass vase container, a beautiful plant shape, white and graceful roots, and a perfect combination and arrangement with fish, water, grass and other decorations in the bottle! Whether a work is a professional hydroponic flower work - apart from natural sensory appeal - a strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether a producer possesses such aesthetic standards!
3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and a fixed supply channel?
Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability to produce professional hydroponic flowers. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a manufacturer with strength and brand as a supply source, then such a provider of hydroponic flowers is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants with washed roots as "hydroponic flowers"!
Checking by variety:
The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in the Araceae and Crassulaceae families - for example, Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera and Rohdea - which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are themselves waterside and water-loving plants, and can generally be grown in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, aralia, and even yew, osmanthus, fruit trees and so on! If a merchant can only provide a single variety of plants, it is certainly not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!
Checking by time:
Time is the ultimate and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If a plant cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water but is only a fleeting blossom, dying after just a few days, then many of these are hydroponic flowers made by speculators who wash off the soil-grown roots and can produce them within a few hours - and after a few days the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, as things stand now, those who cannot provide a shelf life for their goods are mostly speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the product, it is recommended not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
IV. How to Identify a Truly Professional Hydroponic Flower Producer?
Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "legitimate" means in their publicity and channels of information transmission to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to leave no room for those so-called high-tech shell companies that have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale and no technical personnel but rent a few offices for work inside national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), or institutions subordinate to the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Bureau of Retired Cadres of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), and then start advertising to rake in money, and for technology-transfer "guerrilla" companies that shoot one place and move to another. It also deprives malicious transfers of immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market to deceive people, and moreover is for your benefit so that you can learn these several genuine technologies.
The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or in what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more companies and compare more. You must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality and after-sales service. {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go and see a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, in which case you should think thrice before acting. This is the most direct and final way to judge. Of course, besides this, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "education shills," "real estate shills" and "wine shills," fool you with the skill of "master of deception" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}} You must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies and suffer unnecessary economic and spiritual losses. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product itself, in fact everyone need only be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, several types
How to Apply Fertilizer to Hydroponic Flowers by Foliar Feeding
Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.
A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution go to waste; the underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, or twice during the growing period, and the hydroponic flowers can become lush and full of leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as white calla lily, four-season begonia, bamboo-joint begonia and calla lily, a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week from the bud stage until the flowers open.