What are the control methods for rubber plant diseases?
Rubber plants (Ficus elastica) are mainly susceptible to anthracnose and gray leaf spot. Anthracnose mostly occurs on the leaves, especially on both sides of the veins. The spots are initially round or oval gray patches, which then gradually spread to the entire leaf: in the later stage of anthracnose, black granular bodies appear on the spots, and under humid conditions a pinkish colloidal substance can be squeezed out.
Rubber plants are mainly susceptible to anthracnose and gray leaf spot.
Anthracnose mostly occurs on the leaves, especially on both sides of the veins. The spots are initially round or oval gray patches, which then gradually spread to the entire leaf: in the later stage of anthracnose, black granular bodies appear on the spots, and under humid conditions a pinkish colloidal substance can be squeezed out. This disease mostly occurs during the growing season of the rubber plant from June to August.
The control method is: promptly prune off diseased leaves; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 70% Topsin solution diluted 1000-1500 times.
Gray leaf spot also mostly occurs on the leaves, and is more severe in September and October. This disease begins as small gray spots, which after enlarging become irregular in shape, with dark brown edges and grayish-white centers. In the later stage, the diseased leaves dry up, crack, and produce black granular bodies. The disease mostly invades through wounds and can occur year-round.
The control method is: (1) reduce artificial wound damage; (2) promptly prune off diseased leaves; (3) in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 50% carbendazim solution diluted 1000 times or a 70% Topsin solution diluted 1500 times.
What to do when rubber plant leaves turn yellow: care methods for rubber plants
What to do when rubber plant leaves turn yellow? The rubber plant has an obvious trunk, few branches, and aerial roots. It has high ornamental value and is a famous potted foliage plant. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies; medium and large plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance halls of large buildings and in the center of lobbies, appearing majestic and magnificent and reflecting a tropical ambiance.
I. What to do when rubber plant leaves turn yellow
1. Failure to repot in time: Potted rubber plants need to be repotted in time, because over time the soil will become compacted, and the soil will lose nutrients, drainage and aeration will deteriorate, and then the leaves will turn yellow or even drop off.
Solution: In spring, repot or refresh the soil, then remove four roots and yellow leaves, replace with new soil, and water appropriately.
2. Lack of fertilizer: If fertilizer is lacking, especially during the growing season, it will cause the leaves to turn yellow.
Solution: Add appropriate fertilizer when changing the soil, and apply appropriate fertilizer during the growing season.
3. Low temperature: If the temperature is low in winter, the rubber plant will turn yellow, especially in the north, where autumn is already very cold.
Solution: Therefore, be sure to keep the temperature above 5°C.
4. Waterlogging or lack of water: Although the rubber plant likes a warm and humid environment and also likes plenty of fertilizer, too much fertilizer and too much water will cause root rot, and if there is a lack of water, especially in summer, it will turn yellow very quickly.
Solution: Cut off the rotten roots and yellow leaves, then repot, and wait until the roots grow out before watering.
5. Low humidity: If the humidity is too low, transpiration becomes very important, so if water is not replenished in time, the leaves will turn yellow.
Solution: Water and replenish moisture in time.
6. Poor indoor ventilation: Stale air can also cause leaves to turn yellow, and if carbon dioxide levels are high, this can also cause the problem.
Solution: Place it in a place with good air circulation.
7. No exposure to light: If light is lacking, the leaves will lack chlorophyll and will inevitably turn yellow.
Solution: Provide a certain amount of light every day.
8. It may be infected with gray mold. Gray mold is a fungal disease common in open-field and protected cultivation and relatively difficult to control. It is a low-temperature, high-humidity disease. The pathogen grows at 20-30°C, and when the temperature is 20-25°C and humidity remains above 90%, it is a period of high disease incidence.
Solution: Diseased leaves should be promptly removed and burned. Increase indoor light and raise the room temperature. Alternatively, spray alternately with a 50% Vinclozolin wettable powder diluted 1200 times, or a 40% chlorothalonil wettable powder diluted 600 times, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying continuously 2 to 3 times, which can effectively control the spread of the disease.
II. Management of the rubber plant
1. Temperature: It likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 20-25°. It is tolerant of high temperatures and can grow well even above 30°. It is not cold-tolerant, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°. Variegated varieties are slightly less cold-tolerant, and the overwintering temperature should preferably be maintained above 8°. When the temperature is low, it will produce a large amount of leaf drop.
2. Light: It likes bright, scattered light and has a certain shade tolerance. It is not tolerant of intense sunlight exposure; when the light is too strong, it will scorch the leaves, causing yellowing and scorched leaves. It should also not be too shady, otherwise it will cause a large amount of leaf drop and make the beautiful patches on variegated varieties fade. From May to September, shading should be provided, or the plant should be placed in a location with ample scattered light. At other times, it should be given ample sunlight.
3. Watering: It likes a moist soil environment, and during the growing period, water should be supplied adequately to keep the potting soil moist. In winter, watering needs to be controlled; when the temperature is low and the potting soil is too wet, it easily leads to root rot.
4. Environmental humidity: It likes a humid environment. During the growing season, when the weather is clear and the air is dry, frequently spray water on the branches, leaves, and surrounding environment to increase the relative air humidity.
5. Fertilization: Because it grows rapidly, nutrients should be supplied in time so that the plant can grow vigorously. A nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied 2-3 times per month. Varieties with colored patterns grow relatively slowly, so the number of fertilizer applications can be reduced, while increasing the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to make the colors of the patterns on the leaves bright and beautiful. If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied or only nitrogen fertilizer is used, the color of the patterns will fade or even disappear. In September, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and only phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to improve the plant's cold resistance. In winter, the plant goes dormant, so fertilization should be stopped.
6. Pruning: In spring, prune in conjunction with moving the plant out of the shed, removing the forked branches, inward-growing branches, dead branches, and weak thin branches inside the canopy, and shorten the rampant branches protruding beyond the canopy, so as to keep the interior of the plant well ventilated and lit and maintain a rounded tree shape. If the canopy is too large, the outer branches can be shortened as a whole. During the growing period, excessively dense branches should be thinned out and long branches shortened at any time.
7. Repotting: Usually repotting is needed once every 2 years. It likes fertile, loose, and well-drained sandy loam soil. The growing medium can be prepared from garden soil, leaf mold, and plain sand, mixed with farmyard manure as a base fertilizer.
III. Care and pruning
The growing medium can be prepared by mixing peat soil, leaf mold, river sand, etc. Slightly acidic is best. Rubber plant leaves are thick and fleshy, and their water requirements are not very high. In the high-temperature summer and dry autumn environment, pay attention to watering and just keep the medium moist. You can also spray water on the leaf surface. After winter begins and the temperature drops, watering should be controlled, and the medium can be slightly drier. Rubber plants do not have high fertilizer requirements; during the peak growing season, applying a compound fertilizer once every half month is sufficient, and no fertilizer is applied in winter. The optimal growth temperature is 20-30°C. [5]
Pruning
Generally done in late spring and early summer in conjunction with pruning. Select one-year-old lignified middle branches as cuttings, keeping three buds per cutting, cut off the lower leaf, bring the upper two leaves together and tie them with plastic, or cut off half of the upper leaf to reduce water evaporation; to prevent excessive loss of milky sap from the cut and affect survival, promptly apply plant ash to the wound; insert the prepared cuttings into a cutting bed with river sand or vermiculite as the medium; after insertion, keep the cutting bed at high humidity and frequently sprinkle water on the ground (but do not let it become waterlogged) to increase air humidity. At a temperature of 18-25°C and under semi-shade conditions, roots will form in about 2-3 weeks.
Rubber plant Ficus elastica Roxb. ex Hornem Rubber plant illustrated guide: how to grow rubber plants / how to propagate rubber plants
Rubber plant profileRubber plant Ficus elastica Roxb. ex Hornem
Rubber plant cultivation methods and precautions: an introduction to the rubber plant
The rubber plant is an evergreen tree of the Moraceae family. It is native to India and Malaysia, hence it is also called the Indian rubber tree and Indian banyan. It is cultivated in many places across China. It likes a high-temperature, humid, and sunny environment, and can also tolerate shade but not cold. The rubber plant has an obvious trunk, few branches, and aerial roots. The leaves are alternate, long oval in shape, thick and leathery, bright green, with many parallel lateral veins; young leaves are red, and the petioles are thick and sturdy; the rubber plant has high ornamental value and is a famous potted foliage plant. It is extremely suitable for indoor beautification arrangements. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies; medium and large plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance halls of large buildings and in the center of lobbies, appearing majestic and magnificent and reflecting a tropical ambiance.
Evergreen woody foliage plant. Rubber plant leaves are relatively large, thick and leathery, glossy, round to long oval; the upper surface is dark green and the underside is light green. The leaves are initially wrapped outside the terminal bud; after the new leaves unfold, the stipules fall off and leave stipule scars on the branches. Its variegated varieties have yellow-white patches on the green leaves, making them even more beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but its leaves are poisonous. The rubber plant is an evergreen tree of the Moraceae family and can reach a height of more than 25 m. The young leaves curl inward, are thick and leathery and glossy, oval to elongated oval, with the upper surface dark green or reddish-green and the underside light green.
There are extremely many species in the same genus, about 1000-2000 species, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions; there are about 120 species in China.
It likes a high-temperature, humid, and sunny environment, and can also tolerate shade but not cold.
[Propagation]: Commonly propagated by cuttings. Best done in spring and summer. Select the previous year's branches from the upper part of the plant, 20 cm long; after cutting, they will root in 30 days and be potted in 50 days.
[Cultivation]: For potted seedlings, repotting must be done every spring; mature plants can be repotted once every 2-3 years to add fertile soil. Pay attention to watering in midsummer; during dry periods, spray water on the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. Fertilize once every half month. When the plant grows to 1 m tall, the top needs to be cut off to promote branching and maintain a beautiful tree shape. In autumn and winter, watering should be reduced.
[Pests and diseases]: It is often harmed by anthracnose, leaf spot, and gray mold; spray with a 65% zineb solution diluted 500 times. Pests include scale insects and thrips; spray with a 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate diluted 1000 times.
[Morphological characteristics]: It is an evergreen large tree. The bark is smooth and grayish-brown; the young branches are green and few-branched. The leaves are oval in shape, 10-30 cm long, thick and leathery, with a bluntly caudate apex, a rounded base, and entire margins; the upper surface is dark green with grayish-green or yellow-white markings and brown spots, and the underside is light green. The stipules are reddish-brown, wrap outside the terminal bud, and fall off when the new leaves unfold. The whole plant has milky sap. Variegated rubber plant leaves are broad, glossy, and have beautiful colored patterns, and the tree shape is lush and dignified.
[Growth habits]: It likes a warm and humid environment; the suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C. It likes bright light and avoids direct sunlight. It tolerates dry air. It avoids clayey soil and is not tolerant of barrenness or drought; it likes loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
[Landscape uses]: Small plants can be placed on windowsills or tables, while medium and large plants are suitable for decorating halls, offices, and meeting rooms.
Morphological characteristics of the rubber plant
Evergreen tree. The plant height is 2-3 m. The stem is hairless and has milky sap. The leaves are thick, leathery, and have long petioles; the leaves are oblong or oval. Rubber plant leaves are thick and fleshy and gorgeous; the leaves are broad, beautiful, and glossy; the red terminal bud resembles a crouching cloud, and after the stipules split open they look just like a red tassel hanging down, quite charming. It is a potted foliage plant. Suitable for indoor beautification arrangements.
Distribution range of the rubber plant
The rubber plant is native to India, Malaysia, and other places, and is now cultivated in many places across China. It likes a high-temperature, humid, and sunny environment; the suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and it avoids direct sunlight. It can also tolerate shade but not cold; the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C. It tolerates dry air. It avoids clayey soil and is not tolerant of barrenness or drought; it likes loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Cultivation techniques for the rubber plant: key care points
(1) Temperature: It likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 20-25°. It is tolerant of high temperatures and can grow well even above 30°. It is not cold-tolerant, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°. Variegated varieties are slightly less cold-tolerant, and the overwintering temperature should preferably be maintained above 8°. When the temperature is low, it will produce a large amount of leaf drop.
(2) Light: It likes bright, scattered light and has a certain shade tolerance. It is not tolerant of intense sunlight exposure; when the light is too strong, it will scorch the leaves, causing yellowing and scorched leaves. It should also not be too shady, otherwise it will cause a large amount of leaf drop and make the beautiful patches on variegated varieties fade. From May to September, shading should be provided, or the plant should be placed in a location with ample scattered light. At other times, it should be given ample sunlight.
(3) Watering: It likes a moist soil environment, and during the growing period, water should be supplied adequately to keep the potting soil moist. In winter, watering needs to be controlled; when the temperature is low and the potting soil is too wet, it easily leads to root rot.
(4) Environmental humidity: It likes a humid environment. During the growing season, when the weather is clear and the air is dry, frequently spray water on the branches, leaves, and surrounding environment to increase the relative air humidity.
(5) Fertilization: Because it grows rapidly, nutrients should be supplied in time so that the plant can grow vigorously. A nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied 2-3 times per month. Varieties with colored patterns grow relatively slowly, so the number of fertilizer applications can be reduced, while increasing the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to make the colors of the patterns on the leaves bright and beautiful. If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied or only nitrogen fertilizer is used, the color of the patterns will fade or even disappear. In September, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and only phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to improve the plant's cold resistance. In winter, the plant goes dormant, so fertilization should be stopped.
(6) Pruning: In spring, prune in conjunction with moving the plant out of the shed, removing the forked branches, inward-growing branches, dead branches, and weak thin branches inside the canopy, and shorten the rampant branches protruding beyond the canopy, so as to keep the interior of the plant well ventilated and lit and maintain a rounded tree shape. If the canopy is too large, the outer branches can be shortened as a whole. During the growing period, excessively dense branches should be thinned out and long branches shortened at any time.
(7) Repotting: Usually repotting is needed once every 2 years. It likes fertile, loose, and well-drained sandy loam soil. The growing medium can be prepared from garden soil, leaf mold, and plain sand, mixed with farmyard manure as a base fertilizer.
(8) Pest and disease control: It is harmed by leaf spot disease and pests such as red spider mites, Ficus thrips, and scale insects.
Selection of growing soil
For potting, use peat soil, leaf mold, plus 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer to make a growing soil, or fine sandy soil can also be used. The rubber plant grows quickly and likes fertilizer; apply fertilizer once a week. Usually repot or change the soil before new shoots grow in spring. When the seedlings are 80 cm-100 cm tall, pinch off the growing tips as needed to promote lateral bud sprouting. Generally keep 3 main branches and remove the others. If cultivated well, it can grow into a large plant 2 m tall in about 3 years. The rubber plant likes strong sunlight; from spring to autumn, throughout the entire growing season, it should be cultivated entirely in sunlight; in winter it should also be placed in the brightest spot indoors. If placed indoors for viewing, generally replace it about once every 2 weeks, not for too long. The rubber plant grows very quickly in a high-humidity, moist environment, producing one leaf every 5-7 days. During this period, sufficient fertilizer and water must be ensured. In autumn, gradually reduce fertilization and watering to promote solid branch growth. Because the rubber plant has strong resistance to arid environments, cultivation in North China is also relatively easy. It should be placed in a room above 10°C for overwintering; prolonged low temperature and wet potting soil easily cause root rot. From the end of April to the beginning of October each year, move it outdoors for cultivation.
Potted care
1. Soil preparation
When potting rubber plants, it is advisable to use 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand, plus a small amount of base fertilizer, to make the growing soil.
2. Watering and fertilization
It grows very quickly in a high-temperature, humid environment, producing one leaf every 5-10 days; during this period, sufficient fertilizer and water must be ensured. Generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times per month, while keeping the soil relatively moist. After autumn begins, gradually reduce the frequency of fertilization and watering to promote solid plant growth and help with overwintering.
3. Sunlight
The rubber plant likes strong sunlight; from spring to autumn, throughout the entire growing season, it should be cultivated in sunlight, and in winter it should also be placed in a relatively bright location; but it can also tolerate shade and can be cultivated indoors under low light as well.
4. Pinching
In addition, to make the plant grow symmetrically and ensure a good plant shape, pinch off the growing tip when the seedling reaches a height of 50-80 cm to promote lateral bud sprouting; after the lateral branches grow out, select 3-5 branches, and thereafter shorten the lateral branches once each year; after 2-3 years, a relatively large plant with a complete, rounded, and full shape can be obtained.
5. Pruning techniques: The central stem usually grows straight without branching. Regularly prune the growing tip, and lateral branches will form as it grows. By simply cutting off the top, it becomes too tall and lanky, and you can control its height. Use sharp pruning shears to avoid tearing the stem.
6. Change the water regularly: to keep the rubber plant healthy. When rubber plant leaves turn yellow and fall off, it is a sign of excess water. [7]
Precautions
[Watering]: Just keep the soil in a slightly dry or slightly moist state regularly. Summer is the period when the rubber plant needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the rubber plant needs the least water, so less water should be supplied. Fertilization: During the vigorous growing season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. should be applied as a top dressing.
[Light]: The rubber plant likes strong direct sunlight and can also tolerate shady environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight every day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun.
[Ventilation]: Just maintain appropriate ventilation in the environment.
[Temperature]: The rubber plant likes a high-temperature environment, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The environmental temperature should be maintained between 20-30 degrees. When the environmental temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber plant is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees.
Propagation methods of the rubber plant
The rubber plant is commonly propagated by cuttings and air layering. Cutting propagation is relatively simple, very easy to succeed, and grows quickly.
Cuttings
Cutting is the main method, but air layering or leaf-bud cuttings can also be used. Propagation is mostly carried out in spring. Before cutting, select good branches as cuttings. Branches 1-2 years old are best, with 3 nodes per cutting. The cutting medium is made by mixing peat, perlite, river sand, etc. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting and insert it into the medium. After cutting, keep the temperature at about 25°C, and roots will form in about 1-1.5 months. During the cutting process, pay attention to moisture retention, frequently spray water on the cuttings, and place them in a shaded environment for cultivation. After rooting, pot them up and enter the normal management stage.
The growing medium can be prepared by mixing peat soil, leaf mold, river sand, etc. Slightly acidic is best. Rubber plant leaves are thick and fleshy, and their water requirements are not very high. In the high-temperature summer and dry autumn environment, pay attention to watering and just keep the medium moist. After winter begins and the temperature drops, watering should be controlled, and the medium can be slightly drier. Rubber plants do not have high fertilizer requirements; during the peak growing season, applying a compound fertilizer once every half month is sufficient, and no fertilizer is applied in winter. The optimal growth temperature is 20-30°C.
Generally done in late spring and early summer in conjunction with pruning. Select one-year-old lignified middle branches as cuttings, keeping three buds per cutting, cut off the lower leaf, bring the upper two leaves together and tie them with plastic, or cut off half of the upper leaf to reduce water evaporation; to prevent excessive loss of milky sap from the cut and affect survival, promptly apply plant ash to the wound; insert the prepared cuttings into a cutting bed with river sand or vermiculite as the medium; after insertion, keep the cutting bed at high humidity and frequently sprinkle water on the ground (but do not let it become waterlogged) to increase air humidity. At a temperature of 18-25°C and under semi-shade conditions, roots will form in about 2-3 weeks.
Air layering
Using air layering at home is also relatively convenient, and the success rate is high. When air layering, select a two-year-old branch, first make a ring cut 1-1.5 cm wide on the branch; then wrap moist moss or peat soil around the wound, finally wrap it tightly with plastic film, and tie the upper and lower ends; after 1-2 months, the rooted branch can be cut off and potted.
In addition to routine fertilization, caring for rubber plants. There are also two cultivation techniques:
(1) Cutting method. This method is simple to operate, very easy to succeed, and grows quickly. The cutting time is in late spring and early summer, and it can be carried out in conjunction with pruning. The cuttings mostly use 1-year-old semi-lignified middle branches. After cutting the cuttings, to prevent excessive milky sap from flowing out of the cut and affecting survival, promptly seal the wound with clay or plant ash. The length of the cutting is based on keeping 3 buds; cut off the lower leaf, bring the upper two leaves together, and tie them with thin plastic rope to reduce leaf evaporation. Then insert them into a cutting bed with plain sandy soil or vermiculite as the medium. After insertion, keep the cutting bed at high humidity, but do not let it become waterlogged; the suitable temperature is 18-25°C. Frequently sprinkle water on the ground to increase air humidity, and do a good job of shading and ventilation. Roots will form in about 2-3 weeks. After potting, place in a slightly shaded place, and gradually increase light after the new buds sprout.
(2) Air layering method. For home gardeners, propagation by air layering is relatively convenient, and the success rate is also relatively high. The method is: select a 2-year-old branch of appropriate size, well developed, and with solid tissue, make a light ring cut about 1 cm wide at the part where soil is to be wrapped, and apply a 30-50 ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution, then use wet soil or a moss mixture or vermiculite that has absorbed enough water to wrap the ring-cut part, wrap the outside with plastic film, tie the lower end tightly, and leave a hole at the upper end for ventilation and watering. Pay attention to care; if layered in June, roots will form in July-August. After rooting, it can be cut off and potted.
Landscape uses of the rubber plant
Rubber plant leaves are thick and fleshy and gorgeous; the leaves are broad, beautiful, and glossy; the red terminal bud resembles a crouching cloud, and after the stipules split open they look just like a red tassel hanging down, quite charming. It has high ornamental value and is a famous potted foliage plant. Although the rubber plant likes sunlight, it is also shade-tolerant and highly adaptable to light, so it is extremely suitable for indoor beautification arrangements. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies; medium and large plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance halls of large buildings and in the center of lobbies, appearing majestic and magnificent and reflecting a tropical ambiance.
Rubber plant leaves are large and glossy, evergreen in all four seasons, and it is a large shade-tolerant foliage plant. As a potted plant, it is a good material for decorating hotel halls and family rooms. In the south, it is often placed in front of buildings, in the center of flower beds, and on both sides of roads. Its common varieties in the same genus include the variegated rubber plant and the fiddle-leaf rubber plant. The rubber plant is a green "vacuum cleaner."
Placing some plants in a closed room makes dust decrease significantly faster than when there are no plants. Dust in indoor air mainly comes from smoking, heating, cooking, office equipment, and the wear and heating of building materials. Dust is divided into two types: one is settled dust, which generally falls naturally to the ground because its particles are relatively large; the other is called suspended dust or respirable particulate matter, whose particles are relatively small and always remain suspended. Cigarette smoke belongs to this type, and green plants placed indoors are a powerful "weapon" against these tiny particles. Suspended dust carries an electric charge, and when it approaches uncharged plants, it is adsorbed onto the plant epidermis.
Therefore, in places where cigarette smoke is relatively concentrated, in addition to placing more green plants, you should also frequently rinse or wipe the leaf surfaces with a spray bottle, which will make the dust-absorbing effect even better. The rubber plant has a unique function of purifying dust and can also purify formaldehyde among volatile organic compounds. The rubber plant can also absorb carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and hydrogen fluoride from the air, purifying the air. The rubber plant likes places with ample sunlight, which can ensure vigorous photosynthesis and transpiration. For offices with a lot of dust, it is most suitable to place it by the window. The rubber plant is not cold-tolerant, so do not place it in a low-temperature place in winter. Repot once every 2-3 years.
Disease control of the rubber plant: anthracnose
The rubber plant is prone to anthracnose, and its pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or oval gray spots appearing on both sides of the veins; in severe cases, the spots merge into one and spread to the entire leaf.
Control methods:
1. In conjunction with pruning, remove diseased branches, diseased leaves, and dead tips to reduce the pathogen.
2. Usually pay attention to light transmission and ventilation, do not place them too densely, and select disease-free plants from which to take cuttings to propagate seedlings.
3. After new shoots grow in early spring, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture. From June to September, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture, or lime sulfur mixture with a Baume degree of 0.3, or 0.5% potassium permanganate once every half month. In addition, before or in the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% Topsin wettable powder, Tuzet, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, and other wettable powders diluted 500-800 times.
Gray leaf spot
It is more severe in September-October. Small gray spots first appear, then enlarge into an irregular shape, with a grayish-white interior and dark brown edges; later the diseased leaves dry and crack, and black granular bodies appear. The pathogen invades through wounds.
Control methods:
In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim diluted 1000 times or 70% thiophanate-methyl diluted 1200 times.
Root-knot nematode disease
After the rubber plant is infected with root-knot nematode disease, growth stagnates, the plant becomes stunted and upright, and the leaf edges turn yellow or scorched. When the roots are dug open, many nodular growths of varying sizes, namely galls, can be seen on the lateral roots and fibrous roots. When the galls are cut open, many yellow-white oval female nematodes can be seen inside. The roots of the affected plant rot, the aboveground plant grows slowly, and in severe cases growth stops or even the plant dies. .
Pathogen: Meloidogyne incognita (Kofoid et White), called the southern root-knot nematode, belongs to the nematodes. Under the microscope, the perineal pattern of the female has 1 obviously high dorsal arch; the dorsal arch is composed of smooth to wavy lines, some lines branch at the sides, but there is no obvious lateral line, and there are often some fine lines bending toward the vulva; the pattern as a whole is long oval in shape.
Transmission routes and disease conditions: It overwinters as adults or eggs in diseased tissues or as larvae in the soil. Diseased soil and diseased manure are the main sources of the disease. The following year, the overwintering larvae and overwintering eggs hatch larvae, which invade through the roots and cause initial infection in the field, then cycle back and forth, continuously causing reinfection. The southern root-knot nematode occurs relatively commonly across the country, mostly in sandy soil or sandy loam. The suitable temperature for the development of this nematode is 25-30°C; larvae lose their viability when exposed to a low temperature of 10°C, and die after 5 minutes at 48-60°C; they survive in the soil for 1 year, and after 2 years all die. This nematode is most suitable for surviving in the warm southern regions. The temperature in Baotou City in the north is unsuitable for its growth and development, but many garden plants in the north are transported from the south, and when introduced they are all in the original pot and original soil, so the southern root-knot nematode settles down, reproduces, and causes damage in greenhouses or rooms in Baotou. The southern root-knot nematode is the dominant species and can infect many flowers and trees such as chrysanthemums, begonias, cyclamen, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, gardenia, peonies, tree peonies, coleus, snapdragons, carnations, jasmine, roses, and littleleaf boxwood.
Control methods: (1) When propagating rubber plants in the open field, deeply plow the land to a depth of 24 cm, turn the galls in the surface soil into deeper layers to reduce the source of nematodes, and at the same time apply fully decomposed organic fertilizer. (2) Promptly remove diseased and residual roots, bury them deeply, or burn them. (3) Chemical control. Apply 10% Fumasu granules in holes, 5 kg per 667 sq m, or 5% Fumasu granules, 10 kg per 667 sq m, 3% methyl isofenphos granules, 10-15 kg per 667 sq m, 3% Miral granules, 1-1.5 kg per 667 sq m at the seedling stage, 1.5-2 kg at the mature plant stage, applied in furrows. It can also be sprayed or irrigated with 40% methyl isofenphos 250 ml, i.e. a 1000-fold solution, with a control effect of more than 85%. (4) For potted plants, apply 15% aldicarb granules into each pot, applying 2 g of pesticide per 2 kg of soil.
Yellow leaf phenomenon
1. It is caused by the plant not being repotted for a long time, resulting in soil compaction. In the early growth stage, the rubber plant needs repotting once a year, and the pot diameter should be larger each year. After 6-8 years of growth, it can be repotted once every three years. If not repotted for a long time, the potting soil will become severely compacted and the soil aeration will be poor, causing the rubber plant's fibrous roots to suffocate and die, unable to absorb water and nutrients, and causing the plant's leaves to wither and fall off.
The remedy is: when the temperature reaches above 15 degrees, refresh the soil, cut off the dead root system, and shake off most of the old soil. Remove the yellowed leaves, appropriately shorten the stem, replace the original compacted potting soil with fresh fertile growing soil, and keep the soil moist regularly. This can induce it to send out new roots again, recover to a healthy state, and grow into a multi-branched plant. In subsequent care, keep the potting soil well aerated; while keeping the potting soil moderately moist, loosen the potting soil once every 15 to 20 days to avoid repeated watering causing the potting soil to compact and leading to root rot or root shrinkage.
2. It is caused by the plant not being fertilized for a long time. The rubber plant likes heavy fertilizer and plenty of water; not fertilizing for a long time will cause nutritional deficiency, leading to yellowing of the leaves. The remedy is: add an appropriate amount of base fertilizer when repotting, remove the yellow leaves, and thereafter apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
3. It is caused by the overwintering temperature being too low. The minimum suitable temperature for the rubber plant is above 6-8 degrees. If the indoor temperature in winter is below 5 degrees, leaf yellowing and falling off will occur. The remedy is: raise the overwintering room temperature and be sure to keep it above 6-8 degrees.
4. It is caused by excessive watering or fertilization. Although the rubber plant is a plant that likes water and fertilizer, if watered and fertilized too much, especially from August to September when the weather is still relatively muggy, excessive watering will form water accumulation in the pot; or if watered too much during overwintering, when the plant is in the dormant period and transpiration is reduced, the water in the pot cannot be discharged in time; or if raw fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, or concentrated fertilizer is mistakenly applied, root rot will occur due to water damage or fertilizer damage, causing the leaves to wither and turn yellow. If the root rot is caused by fertilizer damage, the roots will be accompanied by an unpleasant odor. The remedy is: first cut off the already rotten root system until the cut surface is fresh and white milky sap exudes. Let it air dry slightly until the milky sap at the wound dries, or apply sulfur powder to the wound for disinfection, or smear clean plant ash or charcoal scraps on the wound; at the same time cut off part of the branches to reduce transpiration water consumption, then repot and plant; when replanting, it is advisable to use clean, slightly moist fine sand to first surround the root wound, and use fresh loose sandy loam on the outside to plant it well, strengthen shading and misting management, and do not water again until the potting soil is dry; as long as the plant's root system is not damaged too severely, new fine fibrous roots will grow from the root wound after one month. In subsequent care, just keep the potting soil slightly moist regularly; do not water excessively, and spray more water on the leaf surface in the morning and evening.
5. The indoor air is excessively dry, and the water in the potting soil is insufficient to supply transpiration for all the leaves, causing some leaves, especially the older leaves at the lower part, to turn yellow and even fall off. The remedy is: check the moisture level of the potting soil from time to time, replenish water in time, and spray water on the leaf surface every morning and evening. If this is still not enough, spray water on the leaf surface again around noon. Note: the water temperature for watering and spraying should be roughly the same as the soil temperature and room temperature. If the water temperature for watering and spraying differs greatly from the soil temperature and air temperature, it is easy to cause adverse physiological reactions.
6. It is poor indoor ventilation. If a room is not ventilated for a long time, some harmful gases accumulate, such as an excessively high carbon dioxide concentration, and yellow leaves can also occur. The remedy is: open the windows in time for ventilation, and keep the indoor air ventilated and fresh to improve it. In winter, open the doors and windows at noon when the temperature is relatively high to replace the indoor air.
7. It is long-term shading. The rubber tree (Ficus elastica) is a tropical tree species. It likes sufficient sunlight and cannot tolerate shade. If it does not get sunlight for a long time indoors, yellow leaves can also occur. The remedy is: place the plant in a place with sunlight.
8. It may be infected with gray mold. The remedy is: promptly remove and burn diseased leaves when found. Increase indoor light and raise the room temperature. Or alternately spray with 50% vinclozolin wettable powder at 1200 times dilution, or 40% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600 times dilution, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying continuously 2 to 3 times, which can effectively control the spread of the disease.
Varieties and cultivars of the rubber tree
Commonly cultivated varieties and cultivars include: Golden-edged rubber tree, whose leaf margins are golden yellow; Variegated rubber tree, whose leaves are slightly round and have many irregular yellow-white patches on the leaf margins and leaf surface, with weaker growth vigor and slower propagation; White-spotted rubber tree, whose leaves are relatively narrow and have many white patches; Golden Star broadleaf rubber tree, whose leaves are much larger and rounder than ordinary rubber trees, brown-red-green when young, and after the leaves mature, the red-brown becomes slightly lighter, with sparse needle-head-sized spots scattered near the edges, which can be identified with a little attention. It is an excellent cultivar of the rubber tree.
New cultivars
Ordinary rubber trees are mostly green, and the color is somewhat monotonous and lacks vitality. The new rubber tree cultivar introduced from Italy, Black Prince, adds some novelty to the monotonous and dull color of ordinary rubber trees. The name Black Prince sounds somewhat masculine, but its red leaf sheath is like a shy young girl, bright red as if about to drip, revealing charm within its masculinity.
Expert: The biggest feature of the rubber tree is that the leaf color is especially red, and within the red there is green. In particular, unlike ordinary rubber tree cultivars, its leaf sheath is very red, and the edges of the leaves have two rows of very neat small round dots, which is very distinctive and beautiful. The Black Prince rubber tree has an elegant and substantial leaf form, is strongly robust by nature, and can grow all year round.
The Black Prince rubber tree grows fast and has good adaptability. Usually, simple watering and fertilizing are enough, and no special management is needed. Because the Black Prince rubber tree has just been introduced, compared with ordinary rubber trees, farmers also have an advantage in price when planting it.
In terms of sales, ordinary cultivars do not sell well. The sales volume of new cultivars is especially large, and compared with ordinary cultivars, the price difference of new cultivars is half.
The Black Prince rubber tree can be grown in pots or in the ground. In the north, it is more suitable for indoor care, and in the south, it is an excellent cultivar for outdoor landscaping. Black Prince likes warmth, likes color, and tolerates shade. Farmers should pay attention to keeping it warm when planting. Its temperature must not be lower than zero degrees; below zero degrees it will suffer cold damage. Generally, protected cultivation is recommended. When watering normally, try to make the wet area a bit larger and water more. In high temperatures, shade it; if the light is too strong, it is easy to burn its leaves.
Black Prince is a rare fine product among rubber trees, adding one more choice while beautifying life.
Uses and purposes of the rubber tree
1. The rubber tree is an ornamental plant with tropical characteristics
We who have always lived in the northern temperate zone, do we not also long for life in tropical Southeast Asia? With high temperatures and humidity all year round, plants are all emerald green with fat, large leaves. Then the rubber tree is a very good choice. It does not require you to set aside a large space for it; with just a small flowerpot, it can quietly grow on its own. Evergreen all year round, it has thick leaves that seem to give off the flavor of sunny beaches, allowing you to experience tropical style right at home. Therefore, the rubber tree is a kind of green ornamental potted plant that many tropical plant lovers like to grow at home.
2. Refusing secondhand smoke
Many men, because companies and public places outside are designated as no-smoking areas, start smoking at home. Secondhand smoke is very harmful to other family members, especially women, the elderly, and children, and seriously affects their health. But if a rubber tree is kept at home, it is not only ornamental but also has a very good effect of purifying the air and absorbing secondhand smoke and toxic gases. If your home has just been renovated or there is a heavy smoker in the family, you must buy an air purifier for your family, the rubber tree!
3. A plant that grows tenaciously on its own
The rubber tree is a plant with very strong vitality and also strong adaptability to the environment, so generally when you buy a rubber tree, it does not need careful daily care, and it can still grow very vigorously. It is like a selfless family member who does not need anything in return from you but every day dedicates to you a share of emerald green and a safe air environment. Many flower enthusiasts greatly like this quality of the rubber tree.
Rubber tree pictures