What technical key points should be mastered for growing peace lilies at home?
Peace lily, also known as white sails, bract-leaf taro, with the trade name "peace lily," is a foliage plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. Peace lily is native to tropical America, has no stem or a short rhizome, leathery leaves that are oblong or broadly lanceolate with long pointed tips and rounded bases, and dark green leaf surfaces with a silky sheen. The spathe is leaf-like, approximately palmate, rising above the leaves, white or green, with flowers resembling a crane holding its head high, elegant and spotless white, giving a sense of peace, tranquility and smooth sailing. The spathe has the ability to absorb formaldehyde and benzene, making it an excellent choice for indoor greening and beautification.
Potted plants should have a well-proportioned shape, upright leaves that are jade-green and glossy, free of damage, disease spots and pest infestation, with 3-5 spathes, of which 1-2 are in a half-open state. The spathe bracts should be large, with a waxy luster, free of pests and diseases; the spadix should be thick and upright, full of vitality and vigor. When displayed in a study or living room, they should be placed in blue-and-white porcelain pots or purple clay pots. After purchase, they should be wrapped in newspaper or plastic bags to prevent the leaves from being damaged by wind, or developing dry tips and scorched edges.
Peace lily prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment and is very tolerant of low light. The optimal growing temperature is 20-28°C, the minimum winter temperature is 10°C, and the optimal wintering temperature is 15-18°C. The substrate should be loose, fertile, structurally stable, not easily rotted, and water- and fertilizer-retentive, with a pH of 5.5-6.5. The potting soil is made by mixing leaf mold, peat soil and charcoal (or perlite) in a ratio of 5:4:1. Add decomposed manure or cake fertilizer as a base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot, 100-500 grams per pot. It prefers fertilizer; during the growing season, apply cake fertilizer water or liquid fertilizer every 1-2 weeks, and also spray the leaves with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate plus 0.1% urea. For young plants, the nitrogen ratio can be appropriately increased to promote lush growth and dense branching; for mature plants, too much nitrogen fertilizer will reduce the ornamental effect. Fertilization is generally stopped in winter.
Peace lily likes moisture but dislikes waterlogging. During the growing period, water once every 5-7 days. Its drought resistance is not as good as that of elephant ear or split-leaf philodendron. Keep air humidity high (70%-80%). In summer, spray water frequently; use cool boiled water for spraying to prevent powdery spots on the leaves. Do not spray water at night, otherwise leaf diseases may occur. Keep the potting soil moist but not waterlogged. In winter, avoid overly wet potting soil; do not water before a cold wave, otherwise it will cause root rot and yellow leaves.
Peace lily prefers diffused light. Indoor display requires sufficient light, preferably about 1 meter away from a window. In sunlight, shade 60%-70% in summer, 30%-40% in spring and autumn; in winter, no shading is needed in the north, while 10%-20% shading is needed in the south. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded, cool and humid location. If placed in an air-conditioned room, spray water more often. Peace lily likes high temperatures; during the growing period, maintain 25-30°C during the day and 21-24°C at night. If the temperature is below 10°C for a long time during wintering combined with moisture, the root system will turn black and rot.
In winter, maintain 25°C during the day and 15-18°C at night, and it will continue to bloom and grow as usual. If a cold wave arrives and there are no heating conditions, it is advisable to cover the entire plant with a plastic bag, and after the cold wave passes, the cover can be removed. Peace lily is very sensitive to dichlorvos, trichlorfon, dimethoate and omethoate, so these should not be used when controlling pests; pyrethroid pesticides can be used instead. Household cultivation is prone to root rot, dry tips and scorched edges. The cause of root rot is watering too much when the temperature is low, or poor drainage of the potting soil when the temperature is too high. Dry tips and scorched edges are mainly caused by too strong light and too low air humidity. During high temperature and dry conditions, frequently spray water on the leaves or the ground, or use 0.1% monopotassium phosphate as a foliar spray instead of water, which both increases air humidity and provides nutrients.
Cultivation methods and precautions for peace lily
White sails, also known as white palm, peace lily and bract-leaf taro, has an air-purifying effect and can filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, with a particularly high purification rate for ozone. Its leaves have a high transpiration rate and can increase air humidity, making it a very good indoor foliage and flowering plant. White sails is more shade-tolerant than ordinary indoor plants and can bloom in a slightly lit and warm environment. Its flowers are also excellent decorative materials for flower baskets and arrangements.Peace lily is 30-40 cm tall, blooms in spring and summer, with a large and prominent spathe that rises above the leaves, white or slightly green, and a creamy-yellow spadix. It prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment, avoids direct sunlight and is afraid of cold. It dislikes heavy clay soil and prefers sandy loam rich in humus. The optimal growing temperature for white sails is 22°C-28°C. During cultivation, 24°C-30°C is suitable from March to September, and 18°C-21°C from September to March of the following year. The winter temperature must not be lower than 14°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, plant growth is hindered and the leaves are prone to cold damage. During storage and transportation of potted white sails, the temperature should be controlled at 13°C-16°C, the relative humidity at 80%-90%, and it can tolerate a dark environment for 30 days.
Key points for potting peace lily
Light and temperature
Peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant. As long as there is about 60% diffused light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a spot with bright diffused light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded; avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and, in severe cases, sunscald will occur. However, long-term dim light will cause the plant to grow weakly and make it difficult to bloom. The optimal light intensity is 500 lux. During potting, the minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be 14°C-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C.
Water
Peace lily has relatively large leaves and is quite sensitive to humidity. During potting, the potting soil should be kept moist during the growing period, but overwatering should be avoided, otherwise it easily causes root rot and plant yellowing. In summer and dry seasons, frequently spray water on the leaf surfaces with a fine-nozzle sprayer and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid. When air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases will wither and fall off. In winter, control watering, and keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Fertilization
Potting requires loose soil with good drainage and aeration. Generally, leaf mold and peat soil mixed with a small amount of perlite can be used as the substrate, with a small amount of superphosphate and a small amount of bone meal or cake residue added as base fertilizer. During the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water every 1-2 weeks, or apply "Huiyou" 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which both ensures healthy plant growth and promotes continuous blooming. In northern winters when temperatures are low, fertilization should be stopped.
Repotting
Peace lily has strong tillering ability. When repotting each year, pay attention to trimming the roots and cutting off withered leaves. Divide overly dense plants and pot them separately. Generally, repot once a year in early spring before a large number of new shoots emerge. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new potting soil and plant in a pot one size larger to facilitate root development.
Propagation methods for peace lily
Division propagation
Best done in May-June. Take the entire plant out of the pot, cut the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, ensuring each division has at least 3-4 leaves, and place in a semi-shaded area after potting to recover. Healthy plants can be divided about every two years, generally in spring along with repotting or after autumn. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, take the entire plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, divide the rhizome at the base of the clump into several sections, each containing more than 3 stems and buds, and replant with new potting soil. Try to retain as many roots as possible so that the new plants can quickly produce new leaves and maintain a full shape.
Seed propagation
After flowering, white sails can produce seeds through artificial pollination in a greenhouse. After the seeds mature, they can be sown immediately after harvesting. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C, and they will germinate 10-15 days after sowing. At low temperatures, the seeds are prone to rotting, which affects seedling emergence.
Pest and disease control
Common bacterial leaf spot, brown spot and anthracnose damage the leaves and can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. When root rot and stem rot occur, in addition to paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution for control. For scale insects and red spider mites, use 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution for spraying. If mite damage occurs, with symptoms such as wilting leaves, faded luster and yellow withering, specialized acaricides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol, hexythiazox, pyridaben, etc.
★ Potted cultivation methods for peace lily
White sails, also known as white palm, peace lily and bract-leaf taro, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous flower of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. White sails has an air-purifying effect. It can filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air. It also has certain health benefits, as it can increase air humidity, prevent nasal mucosa dryness and reduce the probability of illness, making it a very good indoor foliage and flowering plant. It is more shade-tolerant than ordinary indoor plants and can bloom in a slightly lit and warm environment. White sails has emerald-green leaves and pure white spathes, very fresh and elegant. Potted plants decorating a living room or study are very distinctive, and the flowers are also excellent materials for flower baskets and arrangements.
White sails is 30 cm-40 cm tall, with no stem or a short stem, and leaves that are oblong or nearly lanceolate, with obvious midribs and petioles, dark green. It blooms in spring and summer, with a large and prominent spathe rising above the leaves, white or slightly green, and a creamy-yellow spadix. It is very beautiful when in bloom, and even when not blooming, it is an excellent indoor potted foliage plant.
White sails prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, and must avoid direct sunlight; it is afraid of cold. It dislikes heavy clay soil and prefers sandy loam rich in humus. The optimal growing temperature for white sails is 22°C-28°C. The winter temperature should not be lower than 14°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, plant growth is hindered and the leaves are prone to cold damage.
Key points for potting
White sails is relatively shade-tolerant. As long as there is about 60% diffused light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a spot with bright diffused light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded; avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and, in severe cases, sunscald will occur. However, long-term dim light will cause the plant to grow weakly and make it difficult to bloom. The optimal light intensity is 500 lux. During potting, the minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be 14°C-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperatures easily cause leaf drop or scorched-yellow conditions.
White sails has relatively large leaves and is quite sensitive to humidity. During potting, the potting soil should be kept moist during the growing period, but overwatering should be avoided, as long-term wet potting soil easily causes root rot and plant yellowing. In summer and dry seasons, frequently spray water on the leaf surfaces with a fine-nozzle sprayer and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which is beneficial to leaf growth. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases will wither and fall off. In winter, control watering, and keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Potting requires loose soil with good drainage and aeration; heavy clay soil must not be used. Generally, leaf mold and peat soil mixed with a small amount of perlite can be used as the substrate, with a small amount of superphosphate added, plus a small amount of bone meal or cake residue as base fertilizer. During the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water every 1-2 weeks, or use 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which is beneficial both for healthy plant growth and for continuous blooming. In northern winters when temperatures are low, fertilization should be stopped.
White sails has strong tillering ability. When repotting each year, pay attention to trimming the roots and cutting off withered leaves. Divide overly dense plants and pot them separately. Generally, repot once a year in early spring before a large number of new shoots emerge. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new potting soil and plant in a pot one size larger to facilitate root development and plant growth.
Propagation methods
Division propagation. Healthy plants can be divided about every 2 years, generally in spring along with repotting or after autumn. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, take the entire plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, divide the rhizome at the base of the clump into several sections, each containing more than 3 stems and buds, and replant with new potting soil. Try to retain as many roots as possible so that the new plants can quickly produce new leaves and have a full shape.
Seed propagation. After the seeds mature, they can be sown immediately after harvesting. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C, and they will germinate in 10-15 days. At low temperatures, the seeds are prone to rotting.
★ Care methods for peace lily
Likes sunlight, not cold-tolerant, prefers more water, prefers more fertilizer
[January] Potted white sails, placed on a sunny windowsill or balcony, with room temperature maintained at 15°C-18°C, can continue to bloom as usual. When the potting soil is slightly dry, water immediately, once every ten days, keeping the soil moist. Avoid indoor temperatures that fluctuate between high and low and low-temperature humidity, which can cause brown spots and mildew spots on the edges of the spathe.
[February] Flowering white sails plants, placement unchanged, room temperature maintained at 15°C-18°C, continue to send up flower stems from the leaf clump and bloom. If the room temperature is around 10°C, they can safely overwinter, but it is difficult for them to send up flower stems and continue blooming. Keep the potting soil moist. If the indoor air is dry, spray water on the ground or the pot surface to increase air humidity. Flowering plants should be kept away from air conditioning vents and radiators to prevent the spathe from withering prematurely.
[March] Daily management of flowering white sails plants is the same as the previous month. Flowering plants should be kept away from air conditioning vents or radiators to prevent the spathe from wilting prematurely. When in bloom, use a soft brush for artificial pollination to improve the seed-setting rate.
[April] As temperatures rise, white sails blooms gradually more. Water 2-3 times a week to keep the potting soil slightly moist. Fertilize once a month, but nitrogen fertilizer must not be excessive, otherwise it will affect blooming. Prevent root rot and stem rot damage.
[May] Entering the peak flowering period, potted flowering plants are still placed on a sunny windowsill or balcony, with room temperature maintained at 18°C-20°C, watered 3 times a week, and fertilized once a month. For seed propagation, use indoor pot sowing with peat soil as the sowing medium. After sowing, cover with a thin layer of soil. The optimal germination temperature is 23°C-27°C, and germination occurs 10-15 days after sowing. If the room temperature is too low, the seeds are prone to rot from moisture.
[June] Blooming gradually decreases. Repot along with division. Take the entire plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, cut off overly long fibrous roots, and cut the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, ensuring each division has 3-4 buds. Use a mix of garden soil, leaf mold and river sand as the potting soil. After potting, place in a semi-shaded area for care.
[July] Continue dividing and repotting, same method as the previous month. After the divided plants recover and grow, keep the potting soil slightly moist. When in direct sunlight, shade appropriately, and apply a thin fertilizer once a month. Prevent scale insect damage.
[August] In the high-temperature season, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, spray more water on the leaves to maintain high air humidity, which is very beneficial to leaf growth. Shade during strong light, but long-term insufficient light makes it difficult to form flower buds and bloom.
[September] As temperatures gradually cool, the plant continues to send up flower stems from the leaf clump and bloom. Water 2-3 times a week to keep the potting soil slightly moist. Fertilize once a month. Prevent leaf spot and brown spot damage.
[October] At a room temperature of 15°C-18°C, the plant continues to bloom. Water 2-3 times a week, gradually controlling the amount of water, and stop fertilizing to avoid overly rapid plant growth and reduced cold resistance.
[November] Potted plants, placed on a sunny windowsill or balcony, with room temperature maintained at 15°C-18°C, watered once every ten days, keeping the potting soil slightly moist.
[December] Potted plants, placement unchanged, room temperature maintained at 15°C-18°C, watered once every ten days. Cut off yellow and withered leaves on the outer part of the plant, and gently wipe dust off the leaves with a slightly damp soft cloth to keep the leaves clean and glossy.
★ How to grow peace lily well in northern homes
White sails, also known as white palm and asymmetric white sails, is a foliage plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. It is an excellent medium- to small-sized indoor potted flower newly introduced to China in recent years. It also has a very popular name -- peace lily.
White sails is native to tropical America, so in the process of household cultivation in the north, attention should be paid to creating a high-temperature, high-humidity environment for it. White sails has a high transpiration rate and requires air humidity above 60%. In the room, a water tray can be placed under the flower pot, or an electric humidifier can be placed near the plant, so that the area around the leaves is filled with water vapor; water can also be sprayed directly around the plant and on the leaves. In hot summers, generally spray more than 4 times a day. The potting soil should be kept moist frequently, but not waterlogged. White sails is a flower that likes high temperatures. The minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be maintained at 14-16°C, and around 25°C during the day is best. Long-term low temperature and humidity easily cause root rot and withering and yellowing of the aboveground parts. (Author: Miao Jinsu, Sun Fengshan)
★ Cultivation management and disease control of peace lily
1. Ecological habits
White sails, also known as white palm, bract-leaf taro and peace lily, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. It is native to the tropical rainforests of Colombia and is relatively adapted to a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The optimal growing temperature is 20°C-28°C, and the wintering temperature is 10°C. It is a plant that likes high temperatures and has strict soil requirements; heavy clay soil must not be used. Generally, loose, breathable and well-drained soil is used.
2. Propagation methods
Division propagation is mostly used, and seed propagation can also be used. White sails has a fast tillering rate. Generally, healthy plants can be divided after two years. When dividing, make sure each division contains more than 3 buds. For seed propagation, the seeds should be sown immediately after harvesting.
3. Cultivation management
White sails tillers relatively quickly, so it has a relatively high demand for fertilizer and water. Attention should be paid to timely supply, while maintaining the humidity of the surrounding environment. During the growing season, 60%-70% shading is needed, but the light must not be too dim. In particular, long-term low light will affect plant growth and make it difficult to bloom. At the same time, note that it should not be kept in a low-temperature, humid environment for a long time, to avoid root rot and yellowing leaves. When potting, add an appropriate amount of farmyard manure as base fertilizer. When the plant grows too densely, moderate pruning can be carried out.
4. Disease control
White sails (white palm, bract-leaf taro) blight
Symptoms. The parts near the ground are affected first, and the rhizome, stem and leaves can all be damaged. Initially water-soaked spots appear, which expand and turn brown. When humidity is high, the lesions expand rapidly, the diseased parts soften and become wet-rotten, and a sparse white mold layer develops. When the rhizome is infected, the plant collapses; when the stem is infected, it folds over after wet rot, and the stems and leaves above the diseased part wilt or die; leaf infections often expand into large yellowish-brown spots, seriously affecting the ornamental effect.
Transmission routes and disease conditions. It overwinters in the soil as oospores. Under warm, high-humidity conditions, it spreads to plants through splashing rain and irrigation water, and germinates to cause disease. The disease is severe in rainy conditions, with dense planting and poor drainage at the planting site.
Control methods. (1) Rotate crops or use disease-free soil for planting. (2) Choose a well-drained location for planting or placing flower pots. Avoid overly dense clumps and ensure good ventilation and light transmission. (3) Promptly remove and burn diseased plants. Disinfect the soil before planting, and drench with 95% Lüheng No. 1 premium at 3000 times dilution. (4) According to weather forecasts, spray 58% metalaxyl-mancozeb wettable powder at 600 times dilution or 61% fosetyl aluminum-mancozeb wettable powder at 400-500 times dilution, or Shuangmei Yijing wettable powder at 600 times dilution before heavy rain or early after rain, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 applications depending on the weather and the incidence of blight.
White sails bacterial leaf rot
Symptoms. It mainly damages the leaves. Brown rotting spots appear on the leaf margins and continuously expand inward, with yellow halos appearing between the diseased and healthy parts.
Transmission routes and disease conditions. The pathogenic bacteria overwinter in the soil with diseased residues. When conditions are suitable the following year, they spread through irrigation water or rain splashes, and the bacteria invade through wounds. The disease is likely to occur when there are many consecutive rainy days, moisture remains for a long time, or the potting soil is waterlogged for a long time.
Control methods. (1) Horticultural control. Choose a flower nursery with high, dry terrain and good ventilation to cultivate white sails. Drain promptly after rain to strictly prevent moisture retention. In greenhouses, ventilate and dehumidify in a timely and appropriate manner. (2) Chemical control. Entering the rainy season, promptly spray 72% agricultural streptomycin soluble powder or Xinzhi streptomycin at 4000 times dilution, 53.8% Kocide 2000 dry suspension at 1000 times dilution, 47% Jiaruinong wettable powder at 700 times dilution, or 12% green copper emulsion at 600 times dilution, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 applications. (Hebei Agricultural Science and Technology, author: Feng Li)
★ Potted cultivation and care management of peace lily
White palm, also known as white sails, silver bract taro and peace lily, with the English names white flag and peace lily, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family under the subclass Monocotyledoneae.
White palm is native to tropical regions of the Americas such as Colombia. It was introduced from its place of origin to Europe in 1874, began to be used for potted ornamental purposes in the early 20th century, and became very popular in Europe by the 1980s. China began introducing and cultivating it in the late 1980s, with small-scale production. Because white palm is a type of flower suitable for indoor potting that can be enjoyed for its flowers in season and its foliage year-round, to date, flower production bases in the southern provinces and autonomous regions and major cities across the country have successively mass-propagated seedlings through tissue culture. Market sales and prices have always been promising, with relatively high prices, so it is quite favored by merchants and flower growers. Due to sufficient supply, it has gradually entered thousands of households.
Cultivars that have been introduced and cultivated in China now include: Green Giant white palm, Perfume white palm, Magic Lamp white palm and Mana Loa bract-leaf white palm, etc.
1. Botanical characteristics
White palm has a short rhizome and a plant height of 30-50 cm, mostly clumping. Leaves are leathery, oblong, tapering at both ends, dark green, glossy, with obvious veins; petioles are long and sheath-like at the base; flower stems are upright, rising above the leaf clump; the spathe is oblong-lanceolate, upright; the spadix is ovate and spoon-shaped, persistent, white as a snow lotus, resembling pressed palms; flowers are small and densely arranged, white, slightly fragrant, bisexual; berries are red. The flowering period is May-August.
2. Biological characteristics
White palm prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment and is not cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and exposure. It is suitable for planting in sandy loam rich in humus, loose, breathable and well-drained, and dislikes heavy clay soil.
3. Propagation
Division
When potted plants become too densely clumped, during repotting in April-June, take the entire plant out of the pot, remove old soil and diseased and weak roots, pull the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, keeping 3-4 leaves per division, and replant with new potting soil. Do not damage the roots. Place in a semi-shaded area to recover, so as to facilitate the production of new leaves and ensure a full plant shape.
Artificial pollination
Indoor potted white palm can set seed after artificial pollination following flowering. Artificial pollination is best done twice, at 9-10 o'clock and 15-16 o'clock.
It takes 10-12 months from pollination to seed maturity. During the seed development stage, pay attention to ventilation and water and fertilizer management to promote full and plump seeds.
Sowing
After the seeds mature, sow immediately after harvesting. Before sowing, remove the peel and pulp, soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for 10 hours, then sow on loose, well-drained river sand, cover with a thin layer of soil, spray or soak the pot, then cover the pot mouth with plastic film to keep the potting soil at above 80% humidity. Place indoors at 20-25°C, and germination occurs 15-25 days after sowing. If the room temperature is too low during this period, it will cause the seeds to rot or affect seedling emergence.
Tissue culture
Callus induction
Rinse young white palm leaves clean with tap water, disinfect with 70% alcohol for 1 minute, disinfect with 1% mercuric chloride for 10 minutes, then rinse 5 times with sterile water, and inoculate on MS + 24-D 0.2 mg/L +
BA 1.0 mg/L medium and culture for about 15 days to form callus.
Embryoid differentiation
Transfer the callus to MS + BA 1.0 mg/L + NAA 0.1-0.1 mg/L medium for subculture.
Rooting culture
Transfer the rootless shoots from subculture to 1/2 MS + NAA 0.5 mg/L medium for rooting culture.
Other
The pH of the medium is 5.8, and 3% sucrose and 5% agar need to be added in all cases; the sucrose in 1/2 MS is halved. The culture temperature is 24-28°C, the light intensity is 1500-2000 lx, and the photoperiod is 10-12 hours.
Tissue culture proliferates rapidly and produces uniform plants, and is the method currently used in production. After seedlings emerge, when 1-2 true leaves have grown, they can be divided and transplanted into pots. After growing for a period, spray dilute manure water to promote healthy seedling growth. Seed-grown seedlings need 3-4 years to bloom, but after 2-3 years, they can be used for indoor potted ornamental display.
4. Cultivation management
4.1 Light
White palm is shade-tolerant. About 60% diffused light can meet its growth needs, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a spot with bright diffused light. In summer, the light level should be 50%, and in winter it can be increased to 70%. However, it should avoid direct strong light. In addition to avoiding direct strong light at noon, it should receive more sunlight in the morning and evening.
It is suitable for potting indoors on south- or north-facing balconies or windowsills. Otherwise, yellow or scorched leaves may occur, and in severe cases sunscald may appear. If placed in too dim a place for a long time, it will also cause poor plant growth and make it difficult to bloom. It can grow at a light intensity of 200 lx and can bloom at 500 lx. Therefore, although it is shade-tolerant, 500 lx is optimal.
In order to keep the plant graceful and well-proportioned, rotate the flower pot at intervals to ensure even light exposure and prevent the plant from growing toward the light source.
4.2 Temperature
The optimal growing temperature for white palm is 22-28°C. From March to September, 24-30°C is suitable; from September to March of the following year, 18-22°C is suitable. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 14-15°C; below 10-15°C, leaf tips dry up and plant growth is hindered.
4.3 Water
White palm is quite sensitive to humidity. During potting, the potting soil should be kept moist during the growing period, but overwatering and waterlogging should be avoided, otherwise it easily causes root rot or plant yellowing. In summer and when the potting soil is dry, use a fine-nozzle sprayer to spray water on the leaves to keep the potting soil moist; a plastic flower
tray can be placed at the bottom of the pot to collect water to increase air humidity; the higher the air humidity, the more vigorous the growth and blooming; maintaining humidity above 50% is sufficient. When air humidity is low, new leaves are small and yellow, and in severe cases wither and fall off. In winter, control watering, and keep the potting soil moist.
4.4 Fertilization
For potting, water- and fertilizer-retentive potting soil is best. A substrate can be made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil and perlite, with a small amount of superphosphate, bone meal and decomposed poultry and livestock manure added as base fertilizer, and additional potassium fertilizers such as plant ash added to support growth, so that the leaves stand upright and green and do not lodge. During the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water every 15 days to promote healthy plants and glossy leaves; Huiyou 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer can also be applied, which both ensures healthy plants and promotes continuous blooming; or spray a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution on the leaves to make them broad and glossy. But never apply raw fertilizer or excessive fertilizer. If the fertilizer strength is too high, it easily causes fertilizer damage such as yellow leaves and root rot.
4.5 Repotting
The plant has strong tillering ability and should be repotted before a large number of new shoots emerge in early spring each year. When repotting, trim the root system, cut off residual roots and diseased roots, cut off withered and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and divide overly dense plants, then pot them. Before potting, remove part of the old soil and add new soil. Because the leaves are relatively large and the root system is well developed, a moderately sized deep pot should be chosen so that the thick root system can spread and grow in the pot, facilitating root development. With deep roots and lush leaves, the pot will be full of flowers.
4.6 Soilless culture
The culture substrate is made by mixing vermiculite or perlite and river sand in a 1:1 ratio. The nutrient solution pH is 6, applied once every 5 days.
4.7 Hydroponic management
For white palms of medium size and healthy growth, the planting cup is wrapped with solid substrate or sponge. Use Garden Test formula at 1/5-1/3 for the nutrient solution, with a pH of 4.7-5.8. During the growing period, replace the nutrient solution once every 15 days. In summer, place in a properly shaded area for care, avoiding direct sunlight, with diffused light being suitable. However, if shaded for a long time, it is difficult to form flower buds. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 15°C; below 10°C, the leaves will fall off or become scorched yellow. Frequently spray water on the leaves, and keep air humidity above 50%.
5. Pest and disease control
5.1 Diseases
5.1.1 Viral disease. Caused by taro mosaic virus.
Control: Do not introduce virus-carrying seedlings, and strengthen quarantine; tissue culture is mostly used for propagation, so vegetative propagation can only be carried out once the mother plant is confirmed virus-free; when disease occurs, promptly remove and burn diseased plants; spray for control with 2% formaldehyde (formalin) and 2% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, or a solution of 164 g anhydrous or 377 g crystalline trisodium phosphate plus 1 l water.
5.1.2 Root rot Caused by Cylindrocladium spathiphylli.
Control: Promptly prune off diseased leaves, apply Bordeaux mixture to the wounds, and remove severely diseased plants; alternatively, pull out affected plants, soak them in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 5 minutes, rinse, place in sunlight for 15 minutes, and plant after drying; in the early stage of disease, use 30% Lvdebao suspension concentrate at 400 times dilution or
14% copper ammonia complex aqueous solution at 400 times dilution, 0.5% Bordeaux mixture, 200 mg/l agricultural streptomycin or methyl parathion, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800—1000 times dilution, 50% Benlate powder or thiophanate-methyl at 500—1000 times dilution for spray control; you can also drench the base of diseased plants with 50% benomyl at 800 times dilution or 50% captan.
5.1.3 Phytophthora blight Caused by Phytophthora parasitica, also known as Phytophthora rot.
Control: Remove diseased leaves, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and apply sufficient high-quality, thoroughly decomposed organic fertilizer; in the early stage of disease, use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800—1000 times dilution or 50% folpet wettable powder at 700 times dilution, 50% Tuzet wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 40% fosetyl-
aluminum (phosethyl-Al) wettable powder at 200 times dilution, 70% phosethyl-Al · mancozeb wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 58% metalaxyl · mancozeb (zinc manganese metalaxyl) at 400-500 times dilution, 72.2% Previcur aqueous solution at 700-800 times dilution, 64% Sandofan wettable powder at 400-500 times dilution, 50% Benlate wettable powder at 1000-1500 times dilution, 80% zinc manganese nabam wettable powder at 400 times dilution for spray control; do not use only one pesticide, but alternate several chemicals.
5.1.4 Leaf rot Caused by Erwinia and Erwinia carotovora.
Control: Grow strong seedlings, plant at the proper time, and maintain reasonable planting density; do not water excessively, and drain promptly during the rainy season; before and after rain, spray for control with 72% agricultural streptomycin sulfate soluble powder at 4000 times dilution or Xinzhiromycin at 4000 times dilution, 50% copper sulfate · glutaraldehyde wettable powder at 500 times dilution.
5.1.5 Anthracnose Caused by Colletotrichum.
Control: Spray a mixture of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution; or spray a mixture of 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution; you can also use 80% Daconil wettable
powder at 500 times dilution or 65% zineb at 800 times dilution, 60% Fenbingbao, 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution, benomyl at 800 times dilution, etc. for control, spraying once about every 10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
5.1.6 Leaf spot disease Caused by Acremonium, also known as leaf spot.
Control: Pay attention to ventilation; when disease occurs, first remove diseased leaves and burn them centrally to reduce the primary infection source; use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 500 times dilution or 40% carbendazim · sulfur suspension concentrate at 500-600 times dilution, 50% mixed sulfur suspension concentrate at 500 times dilution, 65% zineb wettable powder at 500-700
times dilution for spraying or soaking; you can also spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 70% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution, 50% benomyl at 1000-1500 times dilution, spraying once about every 10 days, for 1-2 consecutive sprays.
5.1.7 Brown spot disease Caused by fungi.
Control: Improve ventilation and light transmission conditions; when disease occurs, promptly prune off and burn diseased leaves to prevent contagion; according to the severity of the disease, spray thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim at 1000 times dilution or 60% zineb wettable powder at 800-1000 times dilution for control.
5.1.8 Chlorosis
Control: Take corresponding measures based on soil test results; when the pH reaches 6.5-6.7, lime must be prohibited and physiologically acidic fertilizers used instead; if hydroponics is used, add
ferric citrate solution to the nutrient solution at a concentration of 3-4 mg/kg, adding once every 7 days, for 2-3 consecutive additions; you can also use a 50 mg/kg chelated iron (edta-fe) aqueous solution, applied to the soil at 100 ml per plant; foliar spraying with 0.2% ferrous sulfate aqueous solution is also possible.
Applying more organic fertilizer appropriately can dissolve insoluble iron in the soil, making it easier for plants to absorb and utilize; when disease occurs, apply alum fertilizer water or spray 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution, spraying once every 7 days, for 3-4 consecutive sprays; for pot cultivation, choose slightly acidic loam soil.
5.2 Pests
5.2.1 Scale insects
Control: When only a few occur, gently brush them off with a soft brush or remove the insects by hand, then rinse clean with water; if the nymphs have just hatched and have not yet formed a waxy shell, spray for control with 40% dimethoate or omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2000-2500 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 1-3 consecutive sprays. Scale insects easily develop resistance to pesticides, so the concentration used must be well controlled and pesticides alternated.
5.2.2 Red spider mite
Control: Maintain ventilation, keep environmental humidity above 40%, and frequently spraying water on the leaves can control the reproduction of red spider mites; when only a few occur, remove severely infected leaves and rinse the leaves with water; chemical control: carry out during the adult and nymph stages, spraying for control with 20% trichlorfencarb emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 20% fenpropathrin emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution, spraying once every 5-7 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays; alternating chemicals gives better results.
For home cultivation, you can spray with 600 times dilution derris extract plus about 1% laundry detergent solution, or spray with Admire at 20000 times dilution or Actara at 10000 times dilution, Wute at 3000-5000 times dilution.
5.2.3 Aphids
Control: When only a few occur, you can crush them by hand, then rinse clean with water, and finally apply 50 times dilution tobacco water or soapy water several times in succession; in March-April when the eggs hatch, spray for control with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 20% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000-3000 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3-4 consecutive sprays. (Special Economic Animals and Plants, authors: Zhou Shurong, Bao Xiufang, Guo Wenchang, Niu Shiliang, Liu Jiahe)
Spathiphyllum floribundum Spathiphyllum floribundum profile: how to grow Spathiphyllum floribundum / how to propagate Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum cardSpathiphyllum floribundum Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum cultivation methods and precautions Introduction to Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Rhizome short. Leaves leathery, oblong, with long pointed tips, 10-20 cm long, 5-9 cm wide, 70-120 cm tall.
The suitable growing temperature for Spathiphyllum floribundum is 22-28°C. In summer, keep the potting soil moist and provide shade. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 8°C. Spathiphyllum floribundum has a relatively short but sturdy stem, with few tillers, and the plant can reach over 1 m tall; it is a large species in the peace lily series. The leaves are broad, elliptical, with sturdy petioles, and the leaf color is deep green and glossy. The spathe is large, like a human palm, rising above the leaves; the flower can last nearly a month from opening to fading; when it first opens, the flower color is pure white, later turning green, deepening from light to dark until it withers; the flowering period is late spring and early summer.
Morphological characteristics of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum is a perennial evergreen shade-loving herbaceous foliage plant, with a relatively short but sturdy stem, few tillers, and the plant can reach over 1 m tall; it is a large species in the peace lily series. The leaves are broad, elliptical, with sturdy petioles, and the leaf color is deep green and glossy. The spathe is large, like a human palm, rising above the leaves; the flower can last nearly a month from opening to fading; when it first opens, the flower color is pure white, later turning green, deepening from light to dark until it withers; the flowering period is late spring and early summer.
Spathiphyllum floribundum has an upright spadix, fragrant, with a white spathe, broadly lanceolate, 7.5-14 cm long. The leaf surface is dark green, glossy, with obvious veins; the angle between the midrib and lateral veins is about 45 degrees, and the lower part of the petiole is sheath-like. The spathe is oblong-lanceolate, white, slightly curled inward; the spadix is yellow-green or white; it is multi-flowered.
Spathiphyllum floribundum leaves are leathery, oblong, with long pointed tips, 10-20 cm long, 5-9 cm wide; the leaf surface is dark green, glossy, with obvious veins; the angle between the midrib and lateral veins is about 45 degrees, and the lower part of the petiole is sheath-like. The spathe is oblong-lanceolate, white, slightly curled inward; the spadix is yellow-green or white; it is multi-flowered.
The flowering period of Spathiphyllum floribundum is spring.
Ecological habits of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum prefers a high-temperature, high-humidity environment and humus-rich loam soil; the suitable growing temperature is 22-28°C. In summer, keep the potting soil moist and provide shade, and it requires relatively high air humidity; avoid direct sunlight.
In winter, the temperature for Spathiphyllum floribundum should not be lower than 8°C. It is now mostly propagated by tissue culture.
Cultivation techniques of Spathiphyllum floribundum Cultivation points
Temperature
Spathiphyllum floribundum prefers warmth, and the suitable growing temperature is 22-28°C. From April to September it is 24-30°C. From October to the following March it is 18-21°C. When the temperature is suitable, it can grow throughout the year. It is not cold-tolerant, and the safe overwintering temperature is 10. At low temperatures, plant growth is hindered, and the leaf edges and tips turn brown; in severe cases, the aboveground parts scorch and wither.
Light
It prefers a semi-shaded environment; when light is too strong, the leaf color becomes dull and loses its gloss, and it can also cause the leaf tips and edges to scorch. From May to September, shading should be provided, blocking 60%-70% of sunlight. Spathiphyllum floribundum has extremely strong shade tolerance; it can grow under weak light of 200 lux, and can bloom at 500 lux. However, it should not be placed in too dark a place either; when the light is too dim, the plant grows spindly, the leaves droop, the leaf color fades, and it is not easy to bloom.
Watering
Spathiphyllum floribundum prefers a moist soil environment and is not drought-tolerant; during the growing period, water should be supplied adequately to keep the potting soil moist but not dry. However, it should not be too wet or waterlogged; when there is too much water, the leaves bend and droop, the leaf color turns yellow, and root rot may even occur. Watering should follow the principle of "alternating dry and wet, leaning toward moist." In winter, watering should be controlled. Prolonged low temperatures and wet potting soil easily cause root rot and yellowing leaves.
Environmental humidity
It prefers a humid environment; when the air is dry, newly grown leaves become smaller and yellow, and the leaf tips and edges scorch. Water should be sprayed frequently on the leaves and surroundings to keep the environment humid, and the relative air humidity should be kept above 50%.
Fertilization
The plant grows rapidly and has a large number of tillers, so it needs relatively more nutrients to grow well. During the growing period, apply a fertilizer combining nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium once every 1-2 weeks to promote plant growth and flowering. Stop fertilizing in winter.
Repotting
Because it grows quickly, repot once every 1-2 years, and this can be done before budding in spring. The potting soil should be loose and well-drained; heavy clay soil should not be used for planting. The substrate can be prepared from materials such as leaf mold, garden soil, peat soil, coarse sand, or rice husk ash.
Cultivation techniques
I. Propagation and seedling selection
Virus-free test-tube plantlets propagated by bioengineering technology should be selected; the plants grow uniformly, the seedlings are sturdy, and the root system is well developed. After planting, they grow quickly and can be grown into large quantities of high-quality commercial flowers.
II. Preparation of potting soil
Cultivation potting soil is the foundation for good growth of Spathiphyllum floribundum, so there are relatively high requirements for preparing the potting soil. The ratio is: three parts organic pond mud, or fertile soil, two parts river sand, two parts decomposed mushroom residue fertilizer, one part peat soil, one part perlite granules, one part decomposed pig manure or dried chicken manure, totaling ten parts, mixed into a loose, breathable, well-drained mixed potting soil.
III. Fertilization
When Spathiphyllum floribundum seedlings are 10-20 cm tall in the early stage, generally too much fertilizer is not needed; excessive fertilization causes black streaks on the leaves, leaf rot, and is actually harmful. In the early seedling stage, a small amount of 1% urea and 0.1% monopotassium phosphate foliar fertilizer can be used; if conditions permit, growth hormones such as "Yemianbao" or "Aiduoshou" can be added, sprayed at 4500-5000 times dilution on the foliage, once every fifteen days for better results. When Spathiphyllum floribundum grows above 30 cm tall, switch to compound fertilizer plus urea (ratio: compound fertilizer 2%, urea 1%) for fertilization. If peanut meal or soybean meal is applied once every two months as organic fertilizer, the effect is even better.
IV. Water management
Spathiphyllum floribundum prefers a shady, humid environment, but does not need excessive watering. As a general guide, the moisture level is sufficient when the potting soil feels moist when pressed with a finger. Each watering should be thorough, that is, water should seep out from the bottom of the pot. If conditions permit, frequently spraying water on the leaves is even better.
V. Pest control
The main pests of Spathiphyllum floribundum include snails, slugs, and hairy caterpillars, which eat the leaves of Spathiphyllum floribundum and damage the commercial value of affected plants. They can be controlled with dichlorvos at 1000 times concentration or carbofuran.
VI. Management
Spathiphyllum floribundum likes to grow in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny environment with relatively high humidity. Generally, flower farms cultivate it under large plastic shade nets, while buildings and courtyards place it in a location with good light, and it should not be exposed to strong direct sunlight to avoid sunburn. On balconies with strong wind and dry areas, it is advisable to spray more water or place a water tray to increase air humidity; the suitable temperature is 18-28°C. In the north, it should be brought indoors in winter and placed in a spot with scattered light near a window eaves; the room temperature should not be lower than 10°C, as below 10°C it is easily frostbitten. When the seedlings grow to 20 cm tall, use scissors to remove the old leaves from the early seedling stage so that new leaves grow faster, sturdier, and more luxuriant.
Propagation methods of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum is commonly propagated by division, sowing, and tissue culture.
Division
It can be carried out when repotting in spring; because there are many tillers, propagation is relatively fast. Sowing is also suitable, and germination is easy, but the seeds do not easily mature in the north, making it difficult to obtain seeds. For mass production, tissue culture can be used; it multiplies very quickly and the plant clumps are neat, making it the currently commonly used propagation method. In summer, it should be placed in appropriate shade to avoid direct sunlight; in winter, the room temperature should be kept above 14°C, as below 10°C the leaves will drop or appear scorched yellow; keep the potting soil moist year-round, and frequently spray water on the leaves, keeping the relative air humidity above 50%. For home cultivation, place a water tray under the flowerpot, or use a humidifier to increase humidity; during the growing period, topdress once every half month.
Cultivation methods of Spathiphyllum floribundum Care and management
Spathiphyllum floribundum has a relatively short but sturdy stem, few tillers, and can reach 1 m tall; it is a large species in the peace lily series, with broad leaves, sturdy petioles, and deep green, glossy leaf color. Its spathe is large and spoon-shaped, shaped like a palm, rising above the leaves; it first opens white, later turning green, and the flowering period is late spring and early summer.
Spathiphyllum floribundum has an upright, elegant, majestic and spectacular plant form, and is a green foliage plant. Because of its good shade tolerance, it is suitable for the beautification and decoration of hotels, restaurants, and family rooms. As the plant continues to grow, its ornamental value also increases accordingly, so it is deeply loved by flower growers in apartment rooms.
Spathiphyllum floribundum is native to Colombia. It prefers warmth and fears cold, and is suitable for growing in moist, semi-shaded, slightly acidic soil; it avoids drought, high temperatures, and direct sunlight. Spathiphyllum floribundum has a relatively wide temperature adaptation range, with a suitable growing temperature of 18-25°C; around 5°C has little effect on it, but below 5°C it should be placed indoors for warmth. At 30°C or slightly higher, as long as it is not exposed to direct sunlight, is shaded, and given sufficient water, it can still grow normally. However, it should not be placed in a shaded indoor spot for a long time, as this will also cause poor plant growth and reduce its ornamental value. Generally, it is best to grow it in a shaded place.
Because Spathiphyllum floribundum has large leaves and a developed root system, its water demand is high; with even slight water shortage, the leaves wilt, and if the water shortage is severe, it will cause dehydration and scorched leaves that are difficult to recover from. It is necessary to ensure sufficient soil moisture and maintain relatively high air humidity, but it should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and leaf wilting. In the hot, dry summer, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, water should also be sprayed on the leaves; on one hand, this can clean dust from the leaf surface, and on the other hand, it can lower the temperature and preserve moisture.
Propagation of Spathiphyllum floribundum mainly uses division, preferably carried out in spring and autumn. Take the original plant out of the pot, carefully separate the small tillering plants, plant them individually in a pot, water thoroughly to settle the roots, and maintain them in a semi-shaded environment; for flower growing in apartment rooms, the division propagation method is generally preferred.
There is another method that can make Spathiphyllum floribundum sprout quickly: take out from the flowerpot a plant that is not doing well and is about to wilt and dry up, scrape off the rotten parts of the roots with a sharp knife, keep the good parts and bury them in sand, water thoroughly once, place in a spot without direct sunlight, and water thoroughly again when the sand dries; after half a month of care, 2-3 inch sheath leaves will grow, then pot them for normal management, and in this way more plants can be obtained.
Disease control of Spathiphyllum floribundum
1、Physiological diseases of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous shade plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family.
Spathiphyllum floribundum grows and develops quickly and needs timely supply of balanced fertilizer. Usually, applying only a three-element compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium cannot meet its growth and development requirements. Especially for Spathiphyllum floribundum taller than 50 cm, applying too much phosphorus fertilizer easily induces many offshoots; excessive nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and insufficient magnesium, calcium, iron, boron, molybdenum, and zinc elements, will cause abnormal development of young leaves, resulting in leaf surface wrinkling, distortion, and cracking, and easily triggering a large outbreak of stem rot (commonly known as black head disease) and heart rot.
Control methods
"Prevention first": throughout the entire cultivation process, according to the nutrients required for the growth and development of Spathiphyllum floribundum, use formula fertilization or apply the "Spathiphyllum floribundum cultivation solution" prepared by this clinic. Many years of trials have proven that applying "Spathiphyllum floribundum cultivation solution" can effectively prevent leaf deformity in Spathiphyllum floribundum. For plants that have already developed deformed, wrinkled, and cracked leaves, after applying "Spathiphyllum floribundum cultivation solution," the 2nd-3rd newly grown leaves can return to normal.
2、Stem rot and heart rot of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Stem rot and heart rot are very harmful to Spathiphyllum floribundum; some growers have 30-50% of plants infected with these two diseases, causing great economic losses. Stem rot and heart rot both belong to "soil fungal diseases." During cultivation, if soil disinfection is not thorough, the soil carries pathogens, and the plant's own disease resistance declines, thus causing a major outbreak of disease. In addition, during fertilization, favoring nitrogen fertilizer, or lacking a certain element, is also an important cause of disease occurrence.
Control methods
Thoroughly disinfect the cultivation substrate (for each cubic meter of culture soil, generally use 10 kg of 2% formaldehyde sprayed and fumigated to achieve sterilization), and at the same time, use the formula fertilization method, or fertilize with a mixture of Spathiphyllum floribundum cultivation solution and compound fertilizer, which both lowers costs and can prevent disease occurrence. In addition, regularly spray highly targeted fungicides on the stem base of Spathiphyllum floribundum; through comprehensive control measures, the incidence of black head disease and heart rot can be reduced to less than one thousandth.
Distribution area of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum is native to Colombia.
Uses of Spathiphyllum floribundum Potted plant uses
Spathiphyllum floribundum is green in all four seasons, with pure white flowers, giving a cool and comfortable feeling. In addition, it is extremely adaptable to indoor environments, has few pests and diseases, and is simple to cultivate and manage, making it a very popular indoor potted flower.
Cut flower material
Spathiphyllum floribundum has strong shade tolerance and can be placed continuously in relatively dark rooms for several weeks without much effect. It is an excellent indoor ornamental plant with both foliage and flowers. Its flowers are also excellent cut flower materials, and both flowers and leaves can be used as cut flower materials.
Purification effect
Spathiphyllum floribundum has a full plant form and verdant leaves; the white spathe is large and conspicuous, standing tall above the leaves like a raised palm, hence the name white palm; it also resembles a white sail riding the wind and waves, hence the name "smooth sailing." It is very beautiful and is regarded in Europe as the "flower of innocence." Spathiphyllum floribundum can absorb ammonia, acetone, benzene, and formaldehyde from the air, helping to keep the air fresh.
Landscape uses
Spathiphyllum floribundum has an upright, elegant, majestic and spectacular plant form; large Spathiphyllum floribundum, Spathiphyllum floribundum large Spathiphyllum floribundum, Spathiphyllum floribundum has broad, imposing leaves full of green, and is a kind of green foliage plant that has become popular in recent years. Its flowers are as large as a palm, standing gracefully among the green leaves, delicate and charming. It has good shade tolerance and is extremely suitable for indoor decoration in hotels, restaurants, and homes; as the plant continues to grow, its ornamental value and economic value also continue to increase, so it is deeply loved by people.
Garden uses of Spathiphyllum floribundum
The green giant is elegant and dignified, evergreen all year round, often cultivated as a garden green plant, and is extremely shade-tolerant, suitable for embellishing several tables, flower stands, wall corners, and other places.
Flower language of Spathiphyllum floribundum
Spathiphyllum floribundum represents success in career and smooth sailing.
Spathiphyllum floribundum pictures