What are the cultivation methods for potted jasmine?
(1) Pot selection: Given the characteristics of jasmine's root system, which requires good permeability and a relatively moist environment, unglazed clay pots should be used for potted jasmine; glazed pots, porcelain pots, etc. can only be used for short-term display planting. There are generally 3 specifications of unglazed clay pots suitable for planting jasmine: diameter 25cm, height 15cm; diameter 30cm, height 17cm; diameter 36cm, height 22cm. It is advisable for the pot diameter to be slightly smaller than the crown, which helps maintain soil moisture.
(2) Preparation of growing soil: Use 4 parts loam, 4 parts compost, 2 parts sand, plus a small amount of bone meal, cake fertilizer, plant ash, etc., piled up to make it. The growing soil should be fertile, loose, with strong water and fertilizer retention and good permeability. Decayed garbage sifted through a 16-mesh sieve can be used to replace sand, and disinfected with formalin. Evenly spread 2L of 1.5% formalin into 100m³ of soil, then cover with straw or a mat, and it can be used after 48 hours.
(3) Potting: First cover the drainage hole with a tile or broken pot piece, add 3cm of coarse growing soil or coarse sand or coal cinder, then use the prepared growing soil for planting. When planting, first wash the roots of the seedlings clean, cut off the main root and overly long lateral roots and damaged roots. Cut and truncate the stem at 15-20cm from the root collar to establish the trunk, then divide 4-6 seedlings into 2 or 3 clumps and plant them in the pot.
(4) Repotting: When the jasmine planted in the pot grows from small to large and the root system fills the entire pot, the plant needs to be moved from a small pot to a large pot. Generally, before jasmine sprouts, prune the root system and then move it into a larger pot.
(5) Management: When not repotting, remove the top 2cm of old soil and add new growing soil.
Fertilization: The principle of fertilizing potted jasmine is to apply lightly and frequently. The main topdressing is fertilizer water made from bone meal, human and livestock manure and urine, plus oil cake, composted and fully fermented; urea and compound flower fertilizer are supplementary.
When new buds sprout, apply the above composted and decomposed fertilizer at a concentration of 5% every other day, and every 3-4 days apply a topdressing of 100g each of urea and compound fertilizer added to 25kg of fertilizer water. During the flowering season, fertilize once every 2-3 days, with a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 4:8 or 3:7.
Watering: For potted jasmine, still follow the principle of not watering until the soil is dry. When temperatures are lower in spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days; in summer, water once every 1-2 days. During the "dog days" of June-August, with high temperatures and drought, and large water evaporation, water once in the morning and once in the afternoon each day. From November onward, strictly control water supply throughout the winter.
During the flowering period, the amount of watering should not be too much, especially for jasmine grown for flower viewing, water should be controlled even more to prolong the flowering period.
Shaping and pruning: Same as open-field cultivation. As long as you cultivate carefully, adjust soil, fertilizer and water properly, pinch, prune tips and remove leaves in a timely manner, pay attention to pest and disease control, and strengthen cold protection and warmth preservation, you can achieve a bumper harvest of potted jasmine.
Potted cultivation and care methods for jasmine. Home cultivation methods for jasmine.
There are always some colors that need to be filled in. Large or small, a rain, at the top of the earth. After April, there is the sound of waves. Wind rustles into the ears, so quickly, the sunlight has traveled a circle from the trees, bringing a group of leaves. And birdsong. Birds chirping in the gradually warming breeze, streets reflected on the streets, songs sung within songs. Above the earth. A kind of listening, seizing the sunlight and wind, seizing the power of time. So do you know about jasmine? Below, the editor will introduce jasmine to you.
(1) Pot selection
Given the characteristics of jasmine's root system, which requires good permeability and a relatively moist environment, unglazed clay pots should be used for potted jasmine; glazed pots, porcelain pots, etc. can only be used for short-term display planting. There are generally 3 specifications of unglazed clay pots suitable for planting jasmine: diameter 25cm, height 15cm; diameter 30cm, height 17cm; diameter 36cm, height 22cm. It is advisable for the pot diameter to be slightly smaller than the crown, which helps maintain soil moisture.
(2) Preparation of growing soil
Use 4 parts loam, 4 parts compost, 2 parts sand, plus a small amount of bone meal, cake fertilizer, plant ash, etc., piled up to make it. The growing soil should be fertile, loose, with strong water and fertilizer retention and good permeability. Decayed garbage sifted through a 16-mesh sieve can be used to replace sand, and disinfected with formalin. Evenly spread 2L of 1.5% formalin into 100m³ of soil, then cover with straw or a mat, and it can be used after 48 hours.
(3) Potting
First cover the drainage hole with a tile or broken pot piece, add 3cm of coarse growing soil or coarse sand or coal cinder, then use the prepared growing soil for planting. When planting, first wash the roots of the seedlings clean, cut off the main root and overly long lateral roots and damaged roots. Cut and truncate the stem at 15-20cm from the root collar to establish the trunk, then divide 4-6 seedlings into 2 or 3 clumps and plant them in the pot.
(4) Repotting
When the jasmine planted in the pot grows from small to large and the root system fills the entire pot, the plant needs to be moved from a small pot to a large pot. Generally, before jasmine sprouts, prune the root system and then move it into a larger pot.
(5) Management
When not repotting, remove the top 2cm of old soil and add new growing soil.
Fertilization:
The principle of fertilizing potted jasmine is to apply lightly and frequently. The main topdressing is fertilizer water made from bone meal, human and livestock manure and urine, plus oil cake, composted and fully fermented; urea and compound flower fertilizer are supplementary. When new buds sprout, apply the above composted and decomposed fertilizer at a concentration of 5% every other day, and every 3-4 days apply a topdressing of 100g each of urea and compound fertilizer added to 25kg of fertilizer water. During the flowering season, fertilize once every 2-3 days, with a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 4:8 or 3:7.
Watering:
For potted jasmine, still follow the principle of not watering until the soil is dry. When temperatures are lower in spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days; in summer, water once every 1-2 days. During the "dog days" of June-August, with high temperatures and drought, and large water evaporation, water once in the morning and once in the afternoon each day. From November onward, strictly control water supply throughout the winter. During the flowering period, the amount of watering should not be too much, especially for jasmine grown for flower viewing, water should be controlled even more to prolong the flowering period.
Shaping and pruning:
Same as open-field cultivation. As long as you cultivate carefully, adjust soil, fertilizer and water properly, pinch, prune tips and remove leaves in a timely manner, pay attention to pest and disease control, and strengthen cold protection and warmth preservation, you can achieve a bumper harvest of potted jasmine.
That is all I have learned about jasmine today. I hope fellow flower lovers will find this article helpful. If you want to learn more about jasmine, please continue to follow our Succulent Garden for more content.
Potted cultivation methods and precautions for jasmine
Jasmine prefers warmth and humidity, and grows best in a well-ventilated, semi-shaded environment. The most suitable soil is slightly acidic sandy soil containing a large amount of humus. Most varieties are averse to cold and drought, and cannot tolerate frost, waterlogging or alkaline soil. When the winter temperature is below 3°C, the branches and leaves are prone to cold damage, and if it lasts for a long time, the plant will die.
Cultivation environment for jasmine
1. Light: Jasmine prefers hot, humid, ventilated environments and needs sufficient light. Jasmine is averse to cold; in the south, potted jasmine can be cultivated outdoors through the winter, while in the north, warmth protection must be done in autumn and winter, moving it indoors to a south-facing position. Strong light makes the branches sturdy, the leaves dark green, and the flowers numerous and fragrant; insufficient sunlight results in sparse nodes, few flowers and no fragrance.
2. Water: Jasmine is not drought-tolerant, but also avoids water accumulation. In rainy seasons, promptly pour out accumulated water in the pot, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. In hot sunny summer days, water twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. If leaves are found curling and drooping, spray water on the leaves to promote growth.
3. Soil: For cultivating jasmine, fertile sandy and semi-sandy soil is best. Planting in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6 to 6.5 results in dense roots and vigorous growth. If the soil is clayey, lacks organic matter, has low fertility and poor aeration, then the root system will be sparse, the plant short, the stems and leaves slender, and the flowers few and small.
Propagation methods for jasmine
Jasmine is mostly propagated by cuttings, but can also be propagated by layering or division.
1. Cutting propagation: Conducted from April to October, select mature 1-year-old branches, cut them into cuttings with more than two nodes, remove the lower leaves, insert them into a cutting bed of half sand and half mud, cover with plastic film, maintain relatively high air humidity, and roots will form after about 40-60 days.
2. Layering propagation: Select relatively long branches, gently notch below a node, bury in a small pot filled with sand and mud, keep moist regularly, roots begin to form in 20-30 days, and after 2 months they can be cut from the mother plant to become new plants for separate planting.
Planting methods for jasmine
In midsummer, water every morning and evening; if the air is dry, supplement with spraying. During the winter dormant period, control the amount of watering; if the pot soil is too wet, it will cause root rot or leaf drop. During the growing period, apply thin cake fertilizer once a week. After repotting in spring, pinch and shape regularly; after the peak flowering period, prune heavily to promote new branch growth, making the plant neat and sturdy with abundant flowering.
Fertilization methods for jasmine
From June to September during the flowering period, frequently apply liquid fertilizer containing more phosphorus, preferably once every 2-3 days. The fertilizer can be well-decomposed soybean cake and fishy water fertilizer liquid, or ammonium sulfate and superphosphate. Generally, too much chemical fertilizer concentration will burn the jasmine plant to death. You can also use a 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution and spray it on the leaves in the evening, which can also promote more flowering.
Flowering period care for jasmine
Jasmine loves fertilizer extremely. With proper care, a potted jasmine can bloom three times a year. If fertilizer is insufficient and nutrients are inadequate, it will bloom once and then no longer bloom. With proper management, it can bloom continuously from late May to early November. The key is pruning, sunlight, and the control of fertilizer and water.
Jasmine begins blooming from early summer onward. With proper management, three peak flowering periods can occur.
In early June, jasmine gradually produces early flowers. The method of picking flowers is to pick the flower together with the leafy young branch, prompting new branches to grow again and making the branches and leaves lush. At this time, apply thin fertilizer water twice a week and keep the pot soil moist.
Late June to early July is the first peak flowering period. At this time, fertilizer and water management need to be strengthened, applying thin fertilizer frequently, fertilizing once every 2 days with fully decomposed organic liquid fertilizer, with a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 1:4. Watering should be sufficient, generally once a day. Watering is usually best done in the morning, while fertilizing is best done in the evening. Continuing this until late July, due to sufficient fertilizer and water, the flowers can be made large and numerous.
In early August, the second flowering period forms. At this time, fertilization should be slightly more concentrated than before, generally half fertilizer and half water. To promote better flowering of jasmine, you can also spray superphosphate solution on the leaves. By late August, gradually reduce fertilization to once every 6-7 days, while watering still needs to be relatively frequent, maintaining once every 2 days.
From early September to early October, the third flowering period forms. At this time, fertilization should be stopped, and the amount of watering should also be gradually reduced. As the weather has gradually turned cooler, it will affect the formation of flower buds, so the number of flowers in this batch is relatively small. After mid-October, flowering ends, and it is only necessary to keep the pot soil slightly moist.
Pest and disease control
1. Pest control
The main pests of jasmine are leaf roller moths and red spider mites, which harm the tender leaves at the top of the shoots, and timely control should be noted. For red spider mites (mites), try not to use dichlorvos and dimethoate, because these two pesticides have a very strong odor (which cannot dissipate for many days and is especially pungent), and they are not specifically effective against red spider mites.
Biological control: Remove dead branches and fallen leaves, concentrate and burn them, which can reduce part of the overwintering population, and protect and utilize natural enemies. Predatory mites, ladybugs, lacewings, thrips, etc. all have a certain controlling effect on mites. When selecting pesticides, the safety of natural enemies should be considered. If conditions permit, natural enemies can be artificially released.
Chemical control: Red spider mites have strong reproductive ability and strong selection pressure on pesticides, and are prone to developing resistance. Pesticides should be applied in a timely manner and rotated. Commonly used pesticides and concentrations include 25% azocyclotin wettable powder 1000-2000 times; 50% bromopropylate emulsifiable concentrate 2000-3000 times liquid; 20% amitraz emulsifiable concentrate 1000-2000 times liquid; 20% dicofol 1000-1500 times liquid; 5% flufenoxuron emulsifiable concentrate 500-1000 times liquid; 50% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times liquid; 40% omethoate 1000 times liquid. Note that the above pesticides cannot be mixed with alkaline pesticides such as Bordeaux mixture.
2. Southern blight
Symptoms: Mostly occurs at the stem base. Infected plants turn brown and rot, the cortex of the diseased part easily peels off, and white silky mycelium appears on the surface. In the later stage, rapeseed-shaped sclerotia grow from the diseased part. The pathogen overwinters in the soil or on diseased residues as sclerotia or mycelium. When there is abundant rain in May-June and August-September each year, repeated infection easily occurs.
① Promptly remove diseased plant residues and destroy them in a concentrated manner.
② Strengthen management, strictly quarantine, and eliminate sources of disease.
③ At the initial stage of disease, use 70% quintozene medicated soil to disinfect the surrounding soil, or spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.3 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture, or use 50% wettable Tuzet medicated soil for control. When the disease is more severe, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-1000 times liquid, or 65% zineb wettable powder 800 times liquid.
④ Use 82 Trichoderma bran biological preparation, mix with fine soil, and blend into the pot soil.
3. Anthracnose
Symptoms: Mainly harms leaves, sometimes also harms tender shoots. At the initial stage of disease, light green to yellow small spots appear on the leaf surface, gradually expanding into grayish-brown or grayish-white round or nearly round spots. In the later stage, black small dots are scattered on the diseased spots. The pathogen overwinters on the damaged leaves as acervuli and mycelium. Generally, the disease is more severe in summer and autumn.
① Strengthen cultivation management, promptly remove and destroy diseased leaves when found.
② At the initial stage of disease, spray 2-3 times with 70% Leshi 600-800 times, once every 7-10 days. At home, 0.1% mercuric chloride water or gentian violet can also be applied.
③ When the disease is more severe, spray 50% thiophanate or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-1000 times liquid, or 50% carbendazim 1000 times liquid, 65% zineb 500 times liquid.
4. Leaf spot disease
Symptoms: Mostly occurs on leaves. At the initial stage of disease, brown spots appear on the leaves, gradually expanding into round or irregular shapes, the diseased part becomes thinner and turns brown and transparent, with black granular matter growing on the spots. The pathogen overwinters on diseased leaves as mycelium or pycnidia. Generally occurs in May-June, with the peak incidence period in July-August.
① Promptly prune diseased leaves and destroy them.
② Apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
③ At the initial stage of disease, spray 70% Leshi 600-800 times liquid, once every 7-10 days, or 65% zineb 600-800 times, or 1:1:100 1% equal Bordeaux mixture.
5. Sooty mold
Symptoms: At the initial stage of disease, dark brown mold spots appear on the leaves, gradually expanding to form a black sooty mold layer. This disease is caused by bacterial growth triggered by the excrement of aphids and scale insects.
① Strengthen management and improve ventilation conditions.
② Promptly eliminate aphids and scale insects.
③ Spray 160 times equal Bordeaux mixture before disease onset; at the initial stage of disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-1000 times liquid.