Jasmine cultivation methods and solutions for when it only grows branches but does not bloom
(1) Jasmine prefers fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 4 parts compost soil, 2 parts river sand or rice husk ash, plus an appropriate amount of fully decomposed poultry manure, etc. You can also make your own potting soil by placing garden soil and animal and plant materials in a plastic bag in alternating layers of soil and material, adding rice washing water and pressing it down. After one winter, it becomes potting soil. To keep the pot soil slightly acidic, water about once every 10 days with a 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution. Repot every 3 years, preferably in late winter or early spring. Do not trim the roots; replace with new nutrient soil, place some bone meal and horse hoof pieces at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and water thoroughly.
(2) Jasmine prefers moisture and good aeration, and fears waterlogging. In spring, water once every 2 to 3 days, and water thoroughly each time. May to June is the spring flowering period, so water a little more than in the earlier period. June to August is the peak flowering period, with strong sunlight and high water demand, so water once in the morning and once in the evening. In dry weather, spray water on the leaves and around the pot. In winter, do not water until the soil is dry. When the pot soil dries to a grayish-white color, water thoroughly.
(3) Jasmine loves light and tolerates fertilizer. Potted plants must be placed in a sunny spot; this is the reasoning behind the gardening saying "jasmine cannot be killed by sun." If sunlight is insufficient, it tends to grow leggy, resulting in large leaves and sparse nodes, which affects flowering. Jasmine loves fertilizer, especially during the flowering period when it needs more. At home, you can make liquid fertilizer by fermenting kitchen scraps with black alum. Fertilization should follow the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently.
(4) Be careful not to fertilize when the pot soil is too dry or too wet; fertilization works best when the pot soil is neither dry nor wet. If jasmine only grows branches without blooming, this is caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient sunlight. If you apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and give it more sun, it is generally not difficult to get it to form buds and bloom.
(5) At the end of winter, keep four pairs of old leaves on each branch and prune away the rest, but do not damage the young buds in the leaf axils. Jasmine generally grows five batches of branches in a year. The first batch is thick and strong, the second is slightly weaker, the third is weaker still, and the fourth and fifth are even thinner and weaker and should be pruned away. As the gardening saying goes: "If jasmine is not pruned, weak branches and small flowers are very obvious," and "Prune hard, and flowering will be steady." Around late May, the flower buds emerging on new shoots should be picked off. Because the temperature is slightly lower at this time, multiple new branches can sprout below the cut, leading to more flowers. At this time, when each batch of flower buds is about the size of a mung bean and the first flower is just showing white, do not water for the time being; let the pot soil dry, and water again when the tender leaves and flower buds droop. This allows nutrients and water to be supplied intensively to the flowering branches, making jasmine bloom more. With proper water and fertilizer management, jasmine will certainly be full of flowers.
Care methods for potted jasmine, and how to care for potted jasmine in the north
Introduction from the Flower and Bonsai Network: Today the Flower and Bonsai Network shares with everyone the care methods for potted jasmine, and how to care for potted jasmine in the north. Friends who like jasmine, come and take a look.
I believe many flower lovers have grown their own beloved jasmine. The daily care of jasmine is extremely important. Many flower lovers care for it improperly, causing the plant to wither and drop leaves, seriously affecting the beauty of the jasmine. So how should potted jasmine be cared for?
Potted jasmine: In midsummer, water in the morning and evening every day. If the air is dry, additional misting is needed. During the winter dormant period, control the amount of watering; if the pot soil is too wet, it can cause root rot or leaf drop. During the growing period, apply thin cake fertilizer once a week. After repotting in spring, pinch and shape frequently. After the peak flowering period, prune heavily to promote new branch growth, making the plant neat and robust with abundant flowering.
Selection of soil for potted jasmine
Jasmine requires loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Generally, garden soil, river sand, and decomposed fertilizer soil are mixed and prepared together. To maintain the slight acidity of the soil, water with ferrous sulfate about once every 10 days.
Jasmine that is 2-3 years old needs repotting. If jasmine roots remain in the soil too long, they become tangled and intertwined, affecting the jasmine's normal nutrient needs. If repotting is done improperly, it will cause the jasmine to stop growing. It is best to set the repotting time before the jasmine is brought outdoors. When repotting jasmine, do not trim the roots; after replacing with new potting soil, water it.
How to water potted jasmine
Jasmine prefers a moist growing environment but fears waterlogging. During the hot summer period, more watering is needed, but too much can cause the plant to stop growing and the pot soil to become waterlogged.
In spring, water once every 2-3 days, around midday, following the principle of "dry then wet": water when dry, and water thoroughly when watering.
During the first flowering period, water slightly more. Entering the high temperatures of summer, which is also the vigorous growth period for jasmine, the light is stronger at this time, so more watering is needed, once in the morning and once in the evening.
The last flowering period in autumn is around September to October. At this time, reduce watering to about once every 2 days. In winter, strictly control the amount of water, otherwise the pot soil will become wet and the temperature will drop, which is seriously unfavorable to jasmine growth.
How to fertilize potted jasmine
Jasmine loves fertilizer, especially during its flowering period, but the amount of fertilizer should not be too much. Follow the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently, and fertilization should mainly be light fertilizer, once a month. Too much fertilizer will cause the leaves to wither and turn yellow.
Teaching you how to care for potted jasmine in the cold winter
Jasmine is a long-day, sun-loving flowering plant and fears low temperatures and severe cold. Once frozen, the leaves are very prone to frost damage and drop, which then endangers the branches and even the main trunk. For home-grown potted jasmine, because the soil layer around the roots is relatively thin and insulation is poor, when the weather forecast predicts low temperatures, jasmine overwintering outdoors must be moved promptly to a wind-sheltered place.
Under low temperatures and cold, keep jasmine as dry as possible -- if most of the pot soil is on the dry side, and watering is needed, do it at noon when there is sunlight.
Jasmine in winter fears low temperatures, frost, and icy, snowy, windy cold, while also needing aeration and sunlight, and must be protected from water shortage that can dry out and damage the branches and leaves. These care factors should be flexibly applied according to temperature changes and the physiological (dry-wet) responses of the jasmine plant (branches and leaves), especially when replenishing water to the pot soil: neither rush nor delay, neither too much nor too little. When the pot soil shrinks noticeably away from the pot edge (a visible gap between the soil and the pot side), this is a sign that the jasmine needs water. At this time, do not be impatient; wait until around noon when there is sunlight, and give it [a very light application of lukewarm mixed water that does not feel icy to the hand] -- the pot soil only needs to become slightly moist. Never overwater, because jasmine at low temperatures has weak metabolism and low water demand; too much watering very easily causes root rot, leading to leaf drop and death of the plant.
From the lunar winter solstice to the beginning of spring is the coldest period of winter. Jasmine should be protected from wind -- to prevent branches and leaves from freezing and dying; attention should be paid to light -- to help the branches and leaves carry out photosynthesis and circulation to resist the cold; at the same time, ventilation should be considered -- to help the branches, leaves, and roots breathe, and avoid jasmine being stifled in an unventilated environment, causing dead branches and fallen leaves.
After the beginning of spring in the lunar calendar, temperature changes become abnormal, with sudden cold and warm spells. Therefore, from the beginning of spring to Qingming, preventing a late spring cold snap is crucial. The important reason many jasmine plants survive severe cold but cannot escape a late spring cold snap is: moving them away from the wind-sheltered spot too early when temperatures rise -- sudden cold and warmth, like with people, makes them prone to catching cold; too little ventilation -- stifling the branches and leaves and causing them to lose normal photosynthesis and circulation; too harsh sunlight -- scorching the branches and leaves with weak metabolism; too much watering -- causing root rot in the plant. There is another important reason -- pruning too early. When the jasmine plant is not yet showing signs of growth, if you rush to prune it, it very easily causes dieback -- branches withering downward from the pruning cut, even endangering the main trunk and finally causing the whole plant to wither. From Qingming to Guyu, after temperatures rise and stabilize, jasmine branches begin to show slight signs of growth. This is the best time to prune and move jasmine to a flower stand for normal care.
Teaching you how to care for potted jasmine in the north
Methods for caring for potted jasmine in the north. Preparation of potting soil: Jasmine prefers fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 4 parts compost soil, 2 parts river sand or rice husk ash, plus an appropriate amount of fully decomposed cake fertilizer residue, chicken and duck manure, etc. You can also make your own potting soil by placing garden soil and animal and plant materials (such as vegetable leaves, branches and leaves, melon and fruit peels, feathers, fish innards, etc.) in a plastic bag or flower pot in alternating layers of soil and animal and plant materials, adding rice washing water and pressing it down. After one winter, this makes a soil suitable for jasmine cultivation. To keep the pot soil slightly acidic, water about once every 10 days with a 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution.
Timely repotting: After 2 to 3 years of growth, jasmine roots have become tangled and intertwined in the pot soil, and the physical and chemical properties of the potting soil have deteriorated. If it is not repotted and the soil not changed at this time, it will seriously affect jasmine growth. The best time for repotting is before the jasmine is brought outdoors. When repotting, generally do not trim the roots; replace with new nutrient soil, place some bone meal and horse hoof pieces at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and water thoroughly after repotting.
Proper watering: Based on jasmine's characteristics of preferring moisture but fearing waterlogging and liking aeration, the following watering principles should be followed. From April to May in spring, jasmine is sprouting branches and unfolding leaves. Temperatures are not high, water consumption is not great, so water once every 2 to 3 days, around midday, following the principle of "dry then wet": water when dry, and water thoroughly when watering. May to June is the spring flowering period, so water slightly more than in the earlier period. June to August is the dog days, with the highest temperatures and also the peak flowering period of jasmine. Sunlight is strong and water demand is high, so water once in the morning and once in the evening. In dry weather, also spray water on the leaves and the ground around the pot. From September to October, water once every 1 to 2 days. In winter, the amount of watering must be strictly controlled, otherwise excessive pot soil moisture combined with low temperatures will be unfavorable for jasmine overwintering. As for the principle of watering during the growing period, do not water until dry; when the pot soil dries to a grayish-white color, water thoroughly.
Proper fertilization: Jasmine loves fertilizer, especially because of its long flowering period it needs more fertilizer. At home, you can make liquid fertilizer by fermenting kitchen scraps. For example, put fish innards, rice washing water, and soybean cake plus black alum (ferrous sulfate) into a water vat and expose it to sunlight for about 20 days before use. The fertilizer water prepared this way not only meets jasmine's need for fertilizer and water but also changes the soil pH. Fertilization should follow the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently.
Just after being brought outdoors, fertilize with a dilute fertilizer solution, once a week, with a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 1:5. For fertilization during bud formation and after flowering, the fertilizer-to-water ratio should be 1:1. During the peak flowering period with high temperatures, fertilize once every 4 days; it is acceptable to use heavy fertilizer and heavy water. Generally water in the morning and fertilize in the evening, then water again the next day. This helps jasmine roots absorb nutrients. Before frost's descent, reduce or stop fertilizing to improve branch maturity for overwintering. Fertilization time can be flexibly arranged, generally best in the evening. Before applying, loosen the pot soil with a small shovel, then apply. Be careful not to fertilize when the pot soil is too dry or too wet; fertilization works best when the pot soil is neither dry nor wet. If jasmine only grows branches and leaves without blooming, it is mainly caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient sunlight. If you apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and let it get more sun according to its light-loving habit, it is generally not difficult to get it to form buds and bloom.
Pruning branches and leaves: Jasmine is generally pruned before being brought outdoors each year, in conjunction with repotting
Specific method: After the pot soil has dried, keep 4 pairs of old leaves on each branch and prune away the remaining leaves, but be careful not to damage the young buds in the leaf axils. Jasmine generally grows five batches of branches in a year. The first batch is thick and strong, the second is slightly weaker, the third is weaker still, and the fourth and fifth are very thin and weak. Thin and weak branches should be pruned away because they cannot produce many flower buds and also waste nutrients and affect light penetration.
How to make jasmine bloom?
First, do the bud-picking work well. Around late May, new shoots are growing and producing flower buds for the first time. Because the temperature is slightly lower at this time and the temperature difference between day and night is large, the flower buds develop poorly, the flowers are small, and the fragrance is also poor. In order to encourage more new shoots to grow and produce more and better flower buds, this batch of weak buds should be cut off in time at the third pair of leaves below them. For branches that only grow leaves without flower buds, the top should also be cut off. In this way, multiple new branches can usually sprout below the cut, achieving the goal of more flowering. At this time, when each batch of flower buds is about the size of a mung bean and the first flower is just showing white, do not water for the time being; let the pot soil dry, and water again when the tender leaves and flower buds droop. This allows nutrients and water to be supplied intensively to the flowering branches, making jasmine bloom more. Do these points well, and together with proper water and fertilizer management, the jasmine you grow will certainly be full of flowers.
Teaching you how to care for potted jasmine in daily life
1. Heavy watering: Jasmine has shallow roots and well-developed fibrous roots, with luxuriant branches and leaves. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is great. In addition, it is not drought-tolerant, so the soil must not be too dry, but it should also not be muddy. Clay pots are best; plastic pots and porcelain pots have poor aeration and can be used as decorative outer pots. The prerequisite for heavy watering is good soil aggregate structure, loose and aerated. The principle of heavy watering is alternating dry and wet: water thoroughly after drying out. Note that "drying out" absolutely does not mean scorched dry.
2. Heavy fertilizing: Jasmine has a long growth cycle, a large annual growth volume, and repeatedly sprouts branches and blooms, so nutrient consumption is fast and energy demand is high. If fertilizer cannot keep up, growth will be weak, with thin branches, thin leaves, and few flowers. The prerequisite for heavy fertilizing is mainly using decomposed organic fertilizer, which is extremely important, such as rapeseed cake water (top dressing) and poultry and fish innards water (top dressing), supplemented with chemical fertilizers such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. The fertilization method is to apply on clear evenings during the growing period and water again the next morning (crucial), once a week during the growing period.
3. High temperature and full sun: Jasmine loves sunlight extremely and must never be overly shaded. On the premise of ensuring water supply, full sun is best. With sufficient sunlight, branches are luxuriant and leaves are dense, and there are many flowers. With low temperatures and shading, leaves are thin, flowers are sparse, and branches are slender. In addition, before spring sprouting and after each batch of flowers, moderate pruning should be done to ensure proper branch density, concentrate nutrients, and reduce ineffective consumption.
Supplement: The issue of building vigor during care. After jasmine has grown for five years, the main branches will age, the upper branches will become thin and weak, and the flowers will be on the small side. During this period, special attention should be paid to cultivating more soil-borne shoots at the base. These shoots grow robustly. Guide an appropriate one to the position of an old main branch that needs renewal. After one year of growth, it can replace the old branch. Cut the old branch off flush with the soil surface to achieve main branch renewal and a robust tree form, maintaining vitality.
Soil selection: For cultivating jasmine, fertile sandy and semi-sandy soil is best, planted in slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6~6.5.
The main pests during jasmine growth include jasmine leaf borer, cotton red spider mite, and chaff scale insect, etc.
1: Jasmine leaf borer: It is one of the main pests of jasmine. Its larvae feed on jasmine leaves, flower buds, small branches, and new shoots. After the bark of small branches is eaten, they die; after seedlings are damaged, they die. It seriously affects the growth and flowering of jasmine.
Control methods: (1) In winter or early spring, remove dead branches from the plant and fallen leaves on the ground, and burn them in a centralized manner; (8) Thin the leaves appropriately to improve ventilation; promptly handpick and kill the eggs, larvae, and pupae on the leaves. (2) During the jasmine growing period, spray with 50% trichlorfon wettable powder at 6000 times dilution, which has a very good control effect.
2. Cotton red spider mite. It can harm many flowers and many greenhouse plants. Jasmine is one of the common affected flowers. The leaves of affected flowers first show small yellowish-white spots, gradually turn red, and spread to the entire leaf, causing the leaves to curl, turn yellow, and drop. It reproduces and spreads very quickly, causing serious damage and affecting the growth and flowering of flowering plants.
Control methods: During the period when red spider mites occur and cause damage, spray with 40% dicofol emulsifiable concentrate at 1500-2000 times dilution (or 50% tetradifon wettable powder at 1500-2000 times dilution, or 40% omethoate at 1000-1500 times dilution) for control, spraying once every 7 days, 2-3 sprays being sufficient, with good results. When spraying, spray the undersides of the leaves, and be sure to spray the inner canopy branches and leaves in the middle and lower parts of the plant.
3. Chaff scale insect: It occurs for several generations from April to October. The nymph and larval stages can crawl, while adults are fixed in place under a waxy shell and suck plant sap. Control methods: During the nymph and larval stages, comprehensive spraying with contact insecticides such as dichlorvos is sufficient. For adults, because they have a waxy outer shell, use systemic insecticides such as omethoate and No. 20 petroleum emulsion, which can dissolve the waxy shell, to kill them.
In addition, jasmine also needs pruning during its growth process. Especially in summer, jasmine grows very fast and must be pruned in time. For potted jasmine pruning, keep 10 cm to 15 cm of the base to promote the growth of many robust new shoots. After the flowers fade, the flowering branches should be pruned promptly to reduce nutrient consumption and also promote new shoot growth, making the branches dense, buds numerous, and flowers abundant.
Key points for autumn and winter care of potted jasmine
Do not prune jasmine
In autumn and winter, jasmine enters a dormant state. At this time, its absorption of nutrients is relatively limited, and its nutrient needs are maintained by nutrients stored in the branches. Therefore, in autumn and winter, potted jasmine should preferably not be pruned excessively, as cutting off large numbers of branches will be very unfavorable for overwintering.
Jasmine watering must be controlled
In autumn and winter, temperatures are low and sunlight is not strong. At this time, jasmine is dormant, root growth slows, and the plant's growth vigor also weakens. Therefore, the watering interval should be appropriately extended, mainly to keep the jasmine's pot soil on the dry side and avoid freezing and rot. At the same time, newly grown semi-lignified branches may lignify before the cold winter arrives, which can improve cold resistance.
Stop fertilizing jasmine
Similarly, in autumn and winter, because the plant is dormant, its nutrient needs have already decreased, and at this time root vitality has declined and the ability to absorb nutrients is weakened, so fertilization should be stopped. If fertilization is carried out at this time, it may cause fertilizer damage to jasmine and easily lead to root rot.
Move jasmine indoors at the right time
In autumn and winter, jasmine needs to be moved indoors in time to avoid frost damage, but the timing of moving indoors must be controlled. Do not be too hasty; jasmine should be allowed to gradually adapt to temperature changes. Do not rush to move it indoors as soon as the temperature drops; this way jasmine can adapt to the temperature.