Detailed Explanation of Azalea Cutting Propagation Methods and Techniques
Azaleas are mostly propagated by cuttings. Azalea cuttings can be taken anytime from April to August. The ideal medium is silt from mountain gullies, though river sand can also be used as a substitute. After sifting, sterilize it with 1% potassium permanganate, then put it in a clay pot for later use. Break off a semi-lignified new shoot of the current year by hand, remove the lower leaves, and you have a cutting. Do not cut it off with scissors, or the results will actually be poorer. Note that if the base of the broken-off shoot is horseshoe-shaped and carries extra epidermis, trim that off.
When inserting the cuttings, first make holes in the medium with a wooden stick of suitable thickness, at a spacing of 2-4 cm, then insert the cuttings about halfway in and water with a fine spray bottle so the cuttings make firm contact with the medium. Cover the clay pot with plastic film and place it in a cool, ventilated spot. Never expose it to direct sun, or the cuttings will wither and die. The frequency of misting depends on the weather. Roots will form in about 1 month. After rooting, gradually extend the time in sunlight, but avoid full exposure. In about 3 months they can be potted on separately. With this method, the survival rate of cuttings can reach 100%.
How to take azalea cuttings? Azalea stem cutting propagation method
Reader: My company did inventory today, and I saw a whole row of azaleas planted in the flower bed. They were so beautiful that I couldn't resist breaking off this branch. Can it still survive as a cutting now? How exactly should I do it? I'm in Xiamen, and the temperature is around 10-20 degrees.
Image: Azalea stem
Editor: First, I can tell you with full confidence that azaleas can indeed survive from stem cuttings. It's just that the branch you broke off and the timing are both unsuitable. The correct method is as follows:
1. Branch selection
For azalea cuttings you can use either softwood or hardwood cuttings, but you cannot choose branches that have already bloomed or are growing shoot buds, because their nutrients have already begun to be consumed, which will affect the survival rate.
Break the azalea branch off by hand at the base (where it joins the main stem). The length is generally 4-6 cm, with 4-5 leaves kept at the tip. If the break is ragged and fuzzy, trim it flat with sharp scissors, then insert it into the soil to a depth of one third of the branch length, with a spacing of about 5-6 cm between plants and rows.
Also, if using softwood azalea cuttings, choose thick, robust shoots that grew in the current year.
Image: Azalea cuttings
2. Cutting time
Hardwood cuttings are generally taken from April to May, using last year's growth before flowering. Softwood cuttings are best taken during the plum rain season. Because the air humidity is high at that time, growth is faster. This is generally done from late May to June.
3. Cutting bed
Before cutting, it is best to prepare a seedbed first. For home cuttings you can use a shallow pot or a clay pot 20-23 cm in diameter. The bottom of the pot must be lined with broken tile pieces to aid drainage. Fill the pot with mountain soil (the soil azaleas like best) to about eight-tenths full.
Image: Azalea cuttings must not be left on a balcony in the sun
4. Cutting care
After inserting, mist with a fine-holed spray bottle and water thoroughly. Provide shade for the first 7-10 days. It is best to place them indoors to prevent sunlight exposure, and mist 6-7 times a day with a sprayer to increase the air humidity around the leaves of the cuttings.
After 10 days, they can receive a little light in the morning and evening, and be misted 3-4 times a day. After about 15 days, if the cuttings are still fairly plump and the leaves have not dropped, it means fine root hairs have grown from the break. Generally, after 25-30 days the roots are fully formed.
Some superior varieties are difficult to root from cuttings, so vermiculite can be used as the medium for rooting. The method is the same as above. If automatic intermittent misting can be provided to keep the leaves of the cuttings constantly moist, the survival rate can reach over 95%.
How to take cuttings from potted azaleas? Azalea propagation methods
Anyone who has bought a potted azalea from a flower shop knows that within a few days of bringing it home the leaves wilt, and it is very hard to keep alive. Break off a branch yourself and try propagating it by cuttings? That's even harder. Almost every time the cutting fails to root, yet you really love azaleas. What can you do?
Image: Azalea
Actually, azalea stem cutting propagation is not as difficult as you imagine. Every year I prune my potted azaleas and take some cuttings, and they almost always achieve 100% survival. The method is quite simple. Don't believe it? Let me show you:
Image: Azalea cutting method
1. Use coarse sand or small stones at the bottom of the flower pot as a drainage layer.
Image: Azalea cutting method
2. The branches used are all semi-lignified. The medium is pine needle humus soil. The temperature is best around 25 degrees; at this temperature rooting is fast. As long as the temperature is suitable, cuttings can be taken in all four seasons. The branch length is about 5 cm (this year I experimented with the shortest at 1.5 cm). A little longer is fine too.
Image: Azalea cutting method
3. If taking a single cutting, you can cover it with a large cola bottle or a jar to retain moisture. For many cuttings, use an insulated box, drill holes in the bottom, lay down a drainage layer, and a medium thickness of 8 cm is enough.
●Notes: For the first week, mist basically every day to keep it moist. Do not water it like you would water flowers; too much water makes the branches rot easily.
Image: Azalea after cutting
Isn't the survival rate high? These small potted azaleas were all propagated from earlier cuttings, and they are all growing very well. There are Wubao, as well as Shuangying and Shiyan.