How to grow and care for azaleas in pots in northern regions?
Azalea, also known as yingshanhong and shanjuan, belongs to the family Ericaceae and the genus Rhododendron. It is an evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub and is one of China's top ten famous flowers, known as the "beauty of flowers," and is deeply loved by people. In the south it is mostly grown in the open ground and is relatively easy to manage, but in the north it is mostly grown in pots and requires meticulous management, otherwise it is prone to death or to weak plants with few flowers. When growing azaleas in the north, pay attention to the following points:
(1) Soil. Azaleas prefer loose, highly aerated, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus, with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 being most suitable. If clay or alkaline soil is used, it is very difficult for them to survive. However, most of northern China has alkaline soil, which is not suitable for growing azaleas. Therefore, when growing them you must choose acidic peat soil or pine needle soil mixed with pine needles. You can also make potting soil from 7 parts ordinary mountain soil, 2 parts pine needles and 1 part fallen leaves and weeds, and after mixing, use ferrous sulfate to adjust the pH to the most suitable value.
(2) Water. Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants that like shade and moisture and should not be too dry. Generally, it is advisable to keep the moisture of the potting soil at 18% to 20%. During the growing period and flowering period, the water requirement is relatively large; generally spray once a day or once every other day, and in dry seasons increase the amount of spraying, while also spraying water on the leaves and the ground to ensure a certain air humidity. Rainwater or river water is best; if tap water is used, it should be stored for 1 to 2 days before use to prevent damage from chlorine. Every 7 to 10 days, apply 0.2% ferrous sulfate together with spraying to ensure the acidity of the soil. Spraying is mostly done in the morning or before noon; never water at noon when the temperature is high, so as to avoid damaging the roots. During the winter dormant period, the water requirement is relatively small, so the frequency of spraying should be reduced accordingly; just keep the soil moist, otherwise waterlogging will cause root rot.
(3) Light. Azaleas like light but are also afraid of exposure to the scorching sun. Especially in summer, they should be placed in a shaded place, with a light transmittance of 60% being suitable. New buds and new leaves should be protected from sunburn. In the north, from June to July, it is necessary to prevent direct midday sunlight.
(4) Fertilizing. Timely fertilizing is an important part of ensuring that azaleas have luxuriant branches and leaves and many brightly colored flowers. Because azaleas have shallow roots that are brittle and easily broken and have a poor ability to absorb fertilizer, the principle of "frequent application and light application" should be followed. Avoid concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer; too high a concentration easily burns the roots. Generally, the interval between fertilizations is 10 to 15 days. Fertilizing should focus on phosphate fertilizer and nitrogen fertilizer; fully decomposed soybean cake water, fish meal and the like can also be used. Do not use human excrement or urine. If the leaves turn yellow due to iron deficiency, spray with 1% ferrous sulfate for 2 to 3 consecutive times, and the leaves will turn from yellow to green.
(5) Pruning. Azaleas have a strong ability to sprout and their branches grow densely. Generally, in spring and autumn, remove leggy branches, overlapping branches, diseased and pest-damaged branches, deformed branches and damaged branches. If the middle branches are too dense and affect light and ventilation, the inner branches can be removed; while pruning, shaping should also be done.
(6) Repotting. Azaleas grow relatively slowly, so generally the potting soil is changed once every 1 to 2 years. Repotting is done in spring and autumn. When repotting, it is best to keep the root soil ball, peel off 1/3 of the old soil, cut off part of the poor blackened fibrous roots, then move the plant into a larger pot, add acidic soil to fill it level and press lightly, so that the roots and soil are closely combined, water once thoroughly, and place in a cool place for a week before exposing to light.
How to grow potted azaleas? Care methods for potted azaleas
Azalea, also known as yingshanhong and shanshiliu, is an evergreen shrub. Legend has it that in ancient times there was a cuckoo bird that cried sadly day and night until it coughed blood, which dyed the flowers all over the mountains red, and thus it got its name. Although growing a pot of azaleas well is a small matter, it is not easy, and every aspect needs to be taken care of thoroughly. For many novice flower growers, it may not be clear how to grow potted azaleas. Below, the editor will discuss the care methods for potted azaleas based on the care experience of many flower growers.
First, the soil and water level. This refers to choosing the right substrate for azaleas and mastering the correct watering method. This issue has been discussed a great deal, and there is much experience to draw on. If you have the energy to care for them carefully, a quantitative watering method is recommended. This level can also be called the survival level, and the goal is to keep the azalea alive. The water used for azaleas should preferably have a pH below 7. In areas where the water quality tends toward alkaline, in addition to storing rainwater and snow water, acidified water can be used, that is, 100 jin of water plus 0.1% ferrous sulfate for year-round watering. If the acidity is insufficient, a little vinegar can be added drop by drop as a supplement.
Second, the water quality and fertilizer level. To ensure the long-term healthy growth of azaleas with abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves, acidic water quality and appropriate fertilizer are very important. At this stage, FeSO4 plays a key role. It can both lower the pH value and provide sufficient iron and sulfur. Although it is not fully understood what specific roles they play, from practical experience these effects are very important. Other fertilizers such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are used similarly to those for other flowers, only in reduced amounts, because azaleas require less fertilizer. The second level can be called the improvement level, and the goal is to keep them healthy and keep them growing for a long time.
Third, the pruning and shaping level. The purposes of pruning and shaping are, first, for beauty, and second, for rejuvenation. Azaleas are perennial woody plants and tolerate pruning, and can be pruned into distinctive potted works. There is a lot of knowledge in this. Azaleas have their own growth patterns, and it is not easy to make them grow according to human arrangements. Plant shape can be controlled through measures such as bud removal, branch shortening, tying and heavy pruning. In addition, after azaleas have grown for many years, they will show signs of aging and their growth vigor will weaken. At this time, growth vitality can be restored through pruning; for specific methods, refer to relevant materials. The third level is basically the mastery level, and after passing it one can be said to have mastered potted azaleas.
Three types of problems encountered in the process of growing azaleas and their solutions:
The azaleas I have are all grown indoors in the north, where conditions are stable, and the problems encountered are not too many. Now I will summarize them, hoping to be helpful to flower growers troubled by the same issues.
1. Lack of water. This problem is the most common and also the easiest to solve. When azaleas show wilting and leaf drop due to drought, they can quickly recover their health after sufficient watering.
2. Harm from hard water. If azaleas are watered with unacidified water for a long time, they will suffer chronic damage, their growth will become worse and worse, and eventually they will die. Azaleas with this problem can recover after switching to acidified water, but it requires a slow process. Sometimes many new buds have already appeared and it feels as if they have recovered, but after a few days growth stops again, and after a period of time they continue to improve. After several repetitions, they finally recover their health.
3. Root damage from soil quality. When azaleas drop leaves and show dehydration due to improper soil or the use of raw fertilizer, it is often a root problem, and it is very difficult to recover. In this situation, it is best to give up, as starting over saves more time.
Summary: The above are the care methods for potted azaleas. I hope they are helpful to friends who grow azaleas.
Four-season care and management techniques for potted flowers in northern regions
How should potted flowers in northern regions be managed in winter? Today the editor of Huinong Network will analyze the key points of management techniques for potted flowers in northern regions from the four different seasons.
1 Spring care of potted flowers
1.1 Moving outdoors must be timely
In early spring the weather turns warm and then cold again, and the climate is changeable. In spring, potted flowers should be moved outdoors a little later rather than too early, and slowly rather than urgently. Specifically, cold-hardy plum blossoms, Chinese roses and the like can be moved outdoors when the average day and night temperature reaches 15°C; cold-sensitive jasmine, Milan, bougainvillea, cactus, Christmas cactus and the like should be moved outdoors only when the outdoor temperature reaches 18°C, which is more reliable. In order not to affect the normal growth and development of potted flowers, it is best to let them first go through a period of adapting to the outdoor environment before moving them outdoors for full-day care, so as to avoid harm.
1.2 Fertilizer and water must be appropriate
After potted flowers have spent a long winter indoors, their growth vigor is weakened, and the newly sprouted buds, tender leaves and young roots are all delicate. If concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer is applied at this time, they are extremely prone to fertilizer damage, "burning to death" the tender buds and branch tips. Therefore, when fertilizing potted flowers in early spring, the principle of "light fertilizer and little application, gradually increasing" should be followed. At the same time, raw fertilizer must not be applied; instead, fully decomposed diluted soybean cake water should be used. Generally apply once every 10 to 15 d, preferably on a clear evening.
In early spring, potted flowers should be watered in appropriate amounts, and not too much. At this time the temperature is not high and water evaporation is low. If too much water is given, the potting soil will remain wet for a long time, which will lead to a lack of oxygen in the soil, causing root rot, leaf drop, and even the death of the whole plant. As the temperature gradually rises, the amount of watering should gradually increase, but it must not be excessive. Throughout spring, watering should follow the principle of "do not water if not dry, and water thoroughly when watering," and be sure to avoid water accumulating in the pot. In spring, watering time should preferably be before noon. After each fertilizing and watering, loosen the soil in time to keep the potting soil well aerated. Spring is dry and windy, so attention should be paid to frequently spraying water on the branches and leaves to increase air humidity, so as to help the potted flowers grow vigorously.
2 Summer care of potted flowers
2.1 Appropriate light
Flowers that like sufficient light should, in the hot summer season, preferably be moved to a slightly shaded place to prevent strong sunlight exposure, and then they will grow even better. Generally, shade-loving or shade-tolerant flowers should in summer be kept under environmental conditions with good ventilation and a shade level of 50% to 85%. If exposed to strong direct light at this time, the branches and leaves will turn yellow and withered, and they may even die. For such flowers, after the beginning of summer move them to a north- or east-facing balcony or window to reduce light intensity, so as to help healthy growth.
2.2 Lower the temperature and increase humidity
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 20 to 30°C. In most areas of China, the highest summer temperature reaches above 30°C. When the temperature exceeds the maximum limit for flower growth, the normal life activities of the flowers will be hindered, resulting in short plants, localized leaf scorch, reduced flower quantity and shortened flowering period. Many flowers bloom little or not at all in summer. In summer, attention must be paid to doing a good job of cooling. At the same time, increasing humidity is another important measure for growing potted flowers well in summer.
3 Autumn care of potted flowers
3.1 Appropriate water and fertilizer
After the beginning of autumn, water and fertilizer management needs to be treated differently according to the different ecological habits of various flowers. For camellias, azaleas and the like that bloom once a year, it is necessary to apply 2 to 3 times in time a liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphate fertilizer, otherwise the flowers will be small and few. For Chinese roses, Milan and the like that bloom multiple times a year, a relatively sufficient supply of water and fertilizer should continue to be provided to promote continuous blooming. For most flowers, in the north, after the Cold Dew solar term, fertilizer is generally no longer applied, so as to help them overwinter safely. As the temperature decreases, except for flowers that bloom in autumn, winter or early spring and autumn-sown herbaceous flowers, which can continue to be watered normally according to the actual needs of each type of flower, for other flowers the number of waterings and the amount of water should be gradually reduced to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing leggy growth, affecting flower bud differentiation and suffering cold damage.
3.2 Pay attention to pruning and shaping
After the beginning of autumn, when the temperature is around 20°C, most flowers tend to sprout tender branches. Apart from retaining some branches as needed, the rest should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption. The retained tender branches should also be pinched in time.
3.3 Collect seeds in time
The seeds of many flowers mature one after another around mid-autumn and need to be collected in time. After harvesting the seeds of scarlet sage, morning glory and the like, remove impurities, dry them in the sun, put them into cloth bags and store them in a low-temperature, ventilated place.
4 Winter care of potted flowers
4.1 Strengthen light
In winter, the sunshine duration is short and the sunlight intensity is low, and indoor light conditions are worse than outdoors. For flowers moved indoors after late autumn, they can be placed in different positions indoors according to their ecological habits. Usually, flowers that like strong light and high temperatures and bloom in winter and spring are placed on and near a south-facing windowsill in a place with sufficient sunlight; flowers that like light but can tolerate low temperatures or are already in a dormant state can be placed in a place with bright scattered light; other flowers that can tolerate relatively low temperatures and have already dropped their leaves or do not have strict light requirements can be placed in a darker and cooler place.
4.2 Control water and fertilizer
Except for types that bloom in autumn, winter and early spring and most foliage plants, which can continue to be appropriately watered and fertilized according to their habits, potted flowers in general should have water and fertilizer supply strictly controlled. In winter, reduce the amount of fertilizer applied to potted flowers, and stop fertilizing flowers that are in a dormant or semi-dormant state, otherwise root rot is very likely, and even the whole plant may die. Especially for potted flowers placed in rooms with low winter temperatures and no heating equipment, reduce the number of waterings and the amount of water to keep the potting soil dry, so as to avoid root rot or cold damage. In winter, watering should preferably be done around noon, and watering in the evening should be avoided, so that the potting soil is not too wet and the roots are not damaged by the cold at night.
That is all for today about the four-season care and management techniques for potted flowers in northern regions. Flower growers in the north can come and learn from it for reference!