How to increase the survival rate of bud grafting propagation of Chinese rose
Propagating Chinese roses by bud grafting has the advantages of a high survival rate, fast plant formation and a large propagation coefficient. To increase the survival rate of Chinese rose bud grafting, attention should be paid to the following aspects. Treatment of scion and rootstock: (1) When selecting the scion, besides paying attention to choosing the variety you like
Propagating Chinese roses by bud grafting has the advantages of a high survival rate, fast plant formation and a large propagation coefficient. To increase the survival rate of Chinese rose bud grafting, attention should be paid to the following aspects.
Treatment of scion and rootstock:
(1) When selecting the scion, besides paying attention to choosing the variety you like, you must also consider the quality of the bud stick, and pay attention to the part from which the bud is taken and the time of cutting. Generally, after the spent flowers are cut off, wait 3 to 5 days, until the branch is plump, the buds are full and glossy but the bud scales have not yet split, then cut a strong bud from the middle part of the flowering branch.
(2) The bud stick is best collected and grafted right away. If it cannot be grafted immediately, it can be wrapped in a damp cloth and stored for 1-2 days. If the bark-ring method of bud grafting is used, the bud stick can be soaked in water for about one day before grafting, which makes it easier to peel the buds. After collecting the sticks, all leaves and stipules should be cut off at once to reduce water transpiration, but to make it easy to hold during operation, about 1 cm of leaf stalk should be left.
(3) Choose a plant with good compatibility with the Chinese rose as the rootstock, and the rootstock is required to have advantages such as vigorous growth and strong resistance. At present, wild rose is generally used as the rootstock, and some also use Chinese roses of poorer varieties but with very good growth as the rootstock. The rootstock plants used for bud grafting must grow well, have plump tissue, and be free of pests, diseases and mechanical damage. If the peeling method is used, the rootstock bark is also required to be tender green and easy to peel off.
(4) To make the rootstock reach its best state at grafting time, fertilizer and water management is very important. Generally, about 10 days before grafting, apply a heavy fertilizer once, and cut off the unplump top shoots and unwanted side branches of the rootstock. Water supply before grafting must be sufficient, especially when the peeling method is used; the rootstock must be fully watered the day before, so that it absorbs enough water, which makes peeling easier and also helps supply water to the grafted bud in time.
Influence of environmental conditions and key technical points of bud grafting operation:
(1) Because the water and nutrients contained in the scion (bud piece or bud bark) used for bud grafting are very limited, if it cannot heal quickly after grafting, the bud scion will wither due to water loss. Therefore, bud grafting must be carried out in the season when the plant grows most vigorously and the nutrients in the plant body are most plump. The optimum growth temperature for Chinese roses and roses is about 20°C, so bud grafting of Chinese roses in the Shanghai area is suitable in May, June, September and October. Bud grafting should not be carried out in rainy and windy weather. Within the same day, it is best to choose the early morning or evening when the temperature is lower and the relative air humidity is higher.
(2) The knife used for bud grafting is best disinfected. The methods of peeling the bud piece and cutting the notch on the rootstock vary from person to person; it can be shield-shaped or rectangular; the bark can be peeled, or it can be done with wood. No matter what form is used, attention must be paid to keeping the whole process of cutting the notch, peeling the bud, attaching the bud and tying it continuous and rapid, otherwise, due to excessive water loss, necrosis of the surface cells will affect healing and survival.
(3) When attaching the bud, make sure that at least one side of the bud piece and cambium coincides with the cambium of the rootstock. The cambium is the place where the plant's body cells divide most vigorously; whether the cambium joins well has a direct impact on the survival rate of bud grafting.
(4) Control the tightness of the tying well. Tying too tightly will crush cells and damage tissues; tying too loosely easily causes poor contact. So it is required to be tight without injury and loose while closely joined.
(5) After grafting, it is best to make a protective cap with the opening facing downward above the graft union, to avoid sunlight and block wind and rain, creating a suitable local environment for wound healing.
(6) Usually the scion bud is grafted at the base of the rootstock near the ground, so that after the plant is formed the graft union is not obvious, the branching point is low, and the tree shape is better. But if it is a very precious variety, or the quality of the bud is not very ideal, in order to be more certain, the high bud grafting method can also be used, grafting the scion bud at a higher part of the rootstock above the ground or at the highest point of a long, drooping and curved rootstock branch. In this way, due to the effect of apical dominance, its survival rate is high and it sprouts quickly. But do not, for the sake of seeking height, graft the scion bud onto a shoot tip that is not yet plump.
Care and management after grafting:
(1) Do not shade after bud grafting, and potted plants do not need to be moved indoors. Ensure sufficient light to meet the needs of wound healing and scion sprouting.
(2) Loosen the soil often and supply sufficient water to promote plant growth. When watering, do not let water splash onto the wound, because water entering the gap and forming a water film is not conducive to wound healing.
(3) Do not fertilize within one week after grafting. Because after the rootstock absorbs fertilizer, the increase in osmotic pressure in its body will cause the scion bud to dehydrate and wither.
(4) Pay attention to observation, and remove the axillary buds and root suckers sprouting from the rootstock at any time, so as to concentrate nutrients. But all the rootstock branches above the graft union should not be cut off too early; these branches store rich nutrients, which are beneficial to wound healing and scion bud sprouting.
(5) About 10 days after grafting, the wound has healed and the scion has begun to sprout and grow; diluted fertilizer can be applied gradually, the protective cap removed, and the tying undone. After about 20 days, fertilizer and water management can be carried out as usual. When the new branches have basically taken shape and the branches and leaves are luxuriant, the rootstock branches above the graft union can be cut off leaving about 2 cm. At this point, the entire bud grafting process is considered complete.
What are the propagation methods of Chinese rose, and how should Chinese roses be propagated?
The Chinese rose is the queen of flowers. Today I will tell you about several common propagation methods for Chinese roses.
Water culture propagation method
1. The water cutting method is suitable for water-cultured plant raw materials without a root system. It refers to the method of cutting a section of stem or branch from the mother plant, inserting the stem into water to take root, thereby forming a new water-cultured plant. The water cutting method is divided into two types according to differences in the structure of the raw material.
2. Put the branch into a 0.05%-0.1% potassium permanganate solution to disinfect for 10 minutes, then use tap water first to induce new roots.
3. Depth of inserting the branch into water: when inserting the disinfected branch into water, the water should immerse the branch; depth of inserting the branch into water: when inserting the cut branch into water, the water should preferably cover 1/3 to 1/2 of the branch, and the leaves on the part immersed in water should be removed; those with aerial roots should be retained and kept above the water surface.
4. Place the branch after water cutting in a shaded place, and it must not be exposed to direct sunlight. Change the water once a day or once every 2 to 3 days.
Cutting propagation method
1. Choose a branch of the current year that is plump in growth, elastic, and has not yet sprouted flower buds, cut it off, cut the upper part into a flat opening, and use a sharp knife to cut the lower part below the node at 5-8 mm into a horse-ear shape (about 45-60 degrees). In spring, summer and autumn, keep the top two small leaves and remove the rest.
2. Buy some vermiculite (sold in flower markets), put it in a porous small plastic basket similar to a tofu tray, with a thickness of 10-12 cm, scrape it level with a wooden board or ruler, and then cut in the basket. Plant spacing 5-6 cm, depth 3-5 cm. Then water thoroughly. Use two bricks to prop up the small basket to facilitate drainage.
3. Place the cut Chinese roses in a shaded place or under tree shade; they can get some sun in the morning and evening. In the first 4-5 days, spray water more times each day to protect the leaves from dehydration; it is best to see water constantly dripping under the basket. After that, spray water once in the morning, at noon and in the evening. Gradually reduce the number of sprays until spraying once every 3-5 days. As long as the temperature is suitable (air temperature between 15-28 degrees), most will form callus tissue and gradually take root. It is winter now, and temperature is the key factor. If at 20-28 degrees, roots will appear in just over 10 days. A lower temperature is also fine, it will just take longer.
4. After the Chinese rose takes root, the two small leaves originally kept will fall off, and new buds will sprout. At this time it can be moved into the sunlight. After the new leaves turn green, a one-thousandth potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed on the leaf surface, making the root system fuller and stronger.
5. After the Chinese rose takes root, the two small leaves originally kept will fall off, and new buds will sprout. At this time it can be moved into the sunlight. After the new leaves turn green, a one-thousandth potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed on the leaf surface, making the root system fuller and stronger.
6. After the Chinese rose survives, there is no need to transplant it in a hurry. Wait until the roots age and turn brown before transplanting, and the survival rate will be higher.
7. If conditions permit, after the branch is cut off, it can be soaked in a one-thousandth potassium permanganate solution for 5-10 minutes, which both disinfects and promotes rooting. Of course, it can also be dipped in some rooting powder.
8. If the holes in the plastic basket are too large, a layer of nylon gauze can be laid at the bottom to prevent vermiculite from leaking out when watering.
Grafting propagation method
1. Cut off the upper part of the rootstock, and peel off a piece of bark from top to bottom,
2. Use a blade to cut a slanted surface on the lower part of the Chinese rose scion to be grafted, remove some of the wood on the lower part, and keep only the bark.
3. Press the scion closely against the exposed wood of the rootstock, then cover the scion with the bark, and wrap it tightly with plastic bandage.
4. Use a clean transparent plastic bag to wrap the entire scion.
5. One month later, after the scion sprouts, the plastic bag can be removed; the wrapping plastic bandage is removed after one year.
How to grow Chinese roses in pots?
1. Choose a suitable flowerpot
The size of the flowerpot for growing Chinese roses should match the size of the plant. The flowerpot must not be too small. When the plant grows until the roots and stems fill the pot, the pot should be replaced in time to meet the needs of continued root and stem development.
2. Keep sufficient sunlight and air circulation
Chinese roses like sunlight, but need to avoid excessively strong direct sunlight. When the midday sun in summer is too strong, some shading should be given. If the Chinese rose is placed indoors, open the doors and windows to keep air circulating; poor ventilation easily causes powdery mildew.
3. Prune branches and leaves in time
After the flowers fade, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower, to promote early new branch growth and reblooming. If a particularly vigorous branch is found, it should be appropriately shortened to avoid consuming too many nutrients and affecting the growth of other branches. In summer, when growth is too dense, it should also be pruned appropriately.
4. Apply more fertilizer during the flowering period
Because Chinese roses bloom many times, they also need relatively more fertilizer, so during the flowering period from May to October, fertilizer should be applied once every ten days; when winter enters, fertilizer should be applied less, or even stopped.
5. Water more during the growing period
During the growing period the plant consumes more water, and in summer the weather is hot and water evaporates quickly, so it needs to be watered once in the morning and once in the evening every day to keep sufficient water. If it rains, watering can be appropriately reduced. But potted Chinese roses need special attention: do not let water accumulate.
6. Prevent pests and diseases in time
The main pests and diseases of Chinese roses include black spot, powdery mildew, leaf blight, scarab beetles, slug moths, etc. For pests and diseases, prevention should be the main approach; fungicides can be sprayed regularly in hot, humid, rainy seasons, and during the winter dormancy stage, pesticides can be sprayed appropriately depending on the situation.
Alright, that is all from the editor. I hope everyone enjoys growing flowers.
Chinese rose R. chinensis Chinese rose illustrated guide: how to grow Chinese roses / how to propagate Chinese roses
Chinese rose profileChinese rose R. chinensis
Aliases: Yueyuehong, Gengshen qiangwei, four-season flower, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Yueyuehua, Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke
Classification: shrub flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledoneae, Rosales, Rosaceae, Rosa
Full bloom period: all seasons
The Chinese rose, known as the queen of flowers and also called "Yueyuehong", belongs to the Rosaceae family. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, also called Chinese rose flower. Natural flowering period from May to November, flowers large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese roses include cut-flower Chinese roses, edible roses, climbing Chinese roses, ground-cover Chinese roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of the Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers, and have become the theme of love poetry. Chinese rose (scientific name: Rosa chin...
Cultivation methods and precautions for Chinese roses Introduction to Chinese roses
The Chinese rose, known as the queen of flowers and also called "Yueyuehong", belongs to the Rosaceae family. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, also called Chinese rose flower. Natural flowering period from May to November, flowers large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese roses include cut-flower Chinese roses, edible roses, climbing Chinese roses, ground-cover Chinese roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of the Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers, and have become the theme of love poetry.
Chinese rose (scientific name: Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong (Jiangsu and Zhejiang), Yueyuehua, Changchunhua (Changchun, Jilin), Gengshen qiangwei, native to Guizhou, Hubei, Sichuan and other places in central China, now spread all over the world. It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an and Liuzhou, and the national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
Natural flowering period from May to November, flowers become large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese roses include cut-flower Chinese roses, edible roses, climbing Chinese roses, ground-cover Chinese roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of the Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Wuhu, Handan, Shijiazhuang and other cities. Red cut flowers have become one of the must-give gifts between lovers, and have become the theme of love poetry. Chinese rose flowers have good antifungal and synergistic anti-drug-resistant fungal activity.
Morphological characteristics of Chinese rose
The Chinese rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or no prickles, but there are also Chinese roses with almost no prickles. Branchlets green, leaves dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets generally 3-5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margin serrate, both sides hairless, smooth; stipules fused with the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, apex separated into ear-like shapes.
Flowers grow at the top of branches, flowers often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors very many, colors varied, diameter 4-5 cm, mostly double-petaled and some single-petaled; sepals tail-like long pointed, margin with pinnate lobes; styles separate, extending beyond the mouth of the calyx tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. Flowers have a slight fragrance, flowering period April-October (north), March-November (south), most flowering in spring, most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, after maturity red-yellow, splitting open at the top, the "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown. Fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1-2 cm long, sepals falling off.
1. Flower: flowers grow at the top of the stem, solitary or clustered. There are single-petaled, semi-double and double-petaled distinctions, rich flower colors, diverse flower shapes.
2. Fruit: the fruit of the Chinese rose is spherical or pear-shaped, green before maturity, orange-red when mature. It contains 5-14 bony achenes (seeds).
3. Seed: the outer layer of the Chinese rose seed is the pericarp; the pericarp has inner and outer layers, the outer layer is a bony layer and very hard; the inner layer is a fibrous layer, with fibers interwoven vertically and horizontally and very tough. The seed coat is a very thin membranous layer, tightly wrapping the embryo. There is a certain gap between the pericarp and the seed coat.
4. Leaf: odd-pinnate compound leaves; leaflets 3-7, ovate or oblong; leaf margin serrate, [1] most varieties have smooth and glossy leaf surfaces (some varieties are rough and lusterless), most varieties are purplish-red when the leaves first unfold, then gradually turn green.
5. Stem: the young stem of the Chinese rose is purplish-red, the tender stem green, the old stem grayish-brown; the stem bears sharp and stiff prickles, and the density of prickles varies by variety.
6. Root: the morphology of the Chinese rose root system is closely related to the propagation method; seedlings grown from seed have an obvious main root and strong lateral roots; seedlings propagated by cuttings have only lateral roots, no main root, and the number of lateral roots is relatively small, with poorer vitality.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub, 1-2 m tall. Stem upright; branchlets spreading, green, hairless, with curved prickles or no prickles. Pinnate compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, rarely 7, 10-15 cm long including the petiole, leaflets broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, 1.5-3 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or broadly cuneate, margin with sharp fine serrations, surface bright green, both sides hairless, terminal leaflet with a long stalk, lateral leaflet stalks shorter, petiole and leaf axis with sparse glandular hairs and fine prickles; stipule margin with eyelash-like glandular hairs or pinnate lobes, both sides hairless, base fused with the petiole. Flowers several clustered or solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, pedicel 3-5 cm long, green, often with glandular hairs; receptacle nearly spherical, calyx lobes triangular-ovate, apex tail-pointed, entire or pinnately divided, outside hairless, inner side and margin covered with short down; petals double, dark red, pink, rarely white; stamens many; styles free, ovary covered with soft hairs. Rose hip spherical, yellow-red, 1.5-2 cm in diameter, calyx lobes persistent. In the north April-October, in the south March-November.
The Chinese rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or no prickles, but there are also Chinese roses with almost no prickles. Branchlets green, leaves dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets generally 3-5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margin serrate, both sides hairless, smooth; stipules fused with the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, apex separated into ear-like shapes.
Flowers grow at the top of branches, flowers often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors very many, colors varied, diameter 4-5 cm, mostly double-petaled and some single-petaled; sepals tail-like long pointed, margin with pinnate lobes; styles separate, extending beyond the mouth of the calyx tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. Flowers have a slight fragrance, flowering period April-October (north), March-November (south), most flowering in spring, most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, after maturity red-yellow, splitting open at the top, the "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown; fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1-2 cm long, sepals falling off.
Ecological habits of Chinese rose
Strong adaptability, cold-resistant, drought-resistant, not strict about soil requirements, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and well drained. Pot soil should be loose, pot diameter appropriate, moisture moderate, apply thin fertilizer frequently, remove flowers and prune branches, prevent and control pests and diseases, repot every year. It likes sunlight, but too much strong direct sunlight is unfavorable to flower bud development and petals easily scorch. It likes warmth; generally an air temperature of 22-25°C is the most suitable temperature for its growth, and high summer temperatures are unfavorable to flowering.
It needs sufficient sunlight, air circulation, good drainage and a wind-sheltered environment, and appropriate shading in midsummer. For most varieties the optimum temperature is 15-26°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. It is relatively cold-resistant; when the winter temperature is below 5°C it enters dormancy. If the summer high temperature continues above 30°C, most varieties bloom less, quality decreases, and they enter a semi-dormant state.
General varieties can withstand a low temperature of -15°C. It requires slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, fertile, loose, but its range of soil adaptability is relatively wide. Relative air humidity is preferably 75%-80%, but slightly drier or slightly wetter is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution; poor ventilation easily causes powdery mildew, and harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, fluorides, etc., are all toxic to Chinese roses.
Distribution area of Chinese rose
China is one of the places of origin of the Chinese rose. Modern Chinese roses have extremely complex blood relationships.
The Chinese rose is the city flower of Zhengzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nanyang, Dalian, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Bengbu, Jiaozuo, Putian, Qingdao, Weifang, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Anqing, Ji'an, Huai'an, Huaibei, Huainan, Jiaonan, Nanchang, Yichang, Xuchang, Changzhou, Taizhou, Cangzhou, Suzhou, Hengyang, Shaoyang, Fuyang, Xinyang, Deyang, Tianshui, Dongtai and other cities. Among them, Laizhou city and Shiqiao town in Nanyang are "hometowns of Chinese roses", and Shuyang, Jiangsu is the largest Chinese rose production base in East China. Among them, Chinese roses produced in Laizhou, Shandong, Shuyang, Jiangsu, and Nanyang, Henan are famous at home and abroad.
Cultivation techniques of Chinese rose Flowering period control
The Chinese rose is also called "Yueyuehong", with a natural flowering period from May to November, flowering continuously. However, controlling the flowering period of Chinese roses during the Olympics is still very important, especially for potted Chinese roses and cut-flower Chinese roses; the flowering period must be well controlled to successfully complete the temporary flower display tasks at various venues and gymnasiums during the Olympics and the supply task of fresh cut flowers.
In actual work, analyze specific situations specifically. For field-grown Chinese roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, let them bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all spent flowers and part of the already fully blooming flowering branches of field-grown Chinese roses by 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature part of the middle of the flowering branch; their ornamental flowering period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all spent flowers and all flowering branches after full bloom by the above method; their ornamental flowering period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune spent flowers at any time to let them flower naturally. For potted Chinese roses and cut-flower Chinese roses, calculate the date of flower use well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.
Fertilizer and water management: In the above pruning situations, combine with plant growth vigor and carry out scientific fertilizer and water management. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, which can promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows fast and new branches grow rapidly, exceeding the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. In the process of water control, after branches and leaves wilt, spray water in time; recovery within 1 hour is the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body; insufficient water supply lowers enzyme activity and slows metabolism, thus slowing plant growth. If new branches bud later than planned, at this time spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and the flower buds grow rapidly. During the flowering period, Chinese roses consume a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering conditions
1. Sunlight must be long. The place where Chinese roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for it to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a half-shaded, half-sunny place or a shaded place with insufficient light, it can bloom at most only in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, households whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements had best not grow Chinese roses and instead grow flowers and plants that are more shade-loving.
2. Prune often. Although the sunlight conditions are good, if not pruned for a long time, Chinese roses will also grow poorly. The pruning method is: after December each year, when the Chinese rose leaves fall, carry out one pruning, leaving branches about 15 cm high, with the pruning position about 1 cm above an outward-extending leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches and concentric branches. After May, after each flowering, cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of the branch that has flowered, so there will be more chances of regenerated flower buds. If you want the flowers to bloom large, you can also remove part of them when there are many flower buds, which both concentrates nutrients and achieves the purpose of prolonging the flowering period and opening in batches.
3. Fertilize frequently and in time. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted Chinese roses can be cultivated with humus-rich, loose loess, preferably mixed with 1/4 rice husk ash or a little broad bean shell, bean cake or chicken and pigeon manure, etc., so that the Chinese rose can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium from the soil. If an old potted Chinese rose needs repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; if not repotting, scrape open 2-3 cm of the soil surface and bank in some fresh fish intestines or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January-February when the Chinese rose is dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment and become fertilizer liquid, seeping into the roots with rain or watering, achieving a better effect. After May is the peak growth season for Chinese roses; every 10 days, apply topdressing once, using fully fermented fishy juice or vegetable leaf juice, mixed and applied at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing in November. If the above requirements can be followed, the Chinese rose can show you fresh flowers every month. The Chinese rose is by nature afraid of heat; it grows best at a temperature of 20-25°C; above 30 degrees it grows with difficulty. If fertilization is handled well, its weakness of fearing high summer temperatures can be overcome.
4. Repotting. Chinese roses do not need to be repotted and turned every year; if it is moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in all four seasons.
Early spring management
In early spring, the roots of the Chinese rose begin to spread in the soil. At this time the most important care work is pruning.
In warm areas in late February, and in colder northern areas, pruning should be carried out in March-April. Pruning roughly means cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height, first removing weak branches, diseased branches and dead branches. The new branches the plant produced in 2011 are the most vigorous; choose 2-3 such main branches, at most 5, according to the plant's original growth condition, generally about 50 cm from the ground, and prune with branch shears at a position 1 cm above a strong bud. The so-called strong bud is a plump, already raised bud that has not yet sprouted. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and keep strong buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be carried out at a plump part of the branch. When pruning with shears, a "clack" sound indicates a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aging part of the plant's branch nodes is rough and has prominent swelling, and there are simply no strong buds in between, so it should also be cut off.
The middle part of 2-3 year old main branches is the place where new buds appear most, so when pruning, leave only 10-20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers in the flowering period, carry out weak pruning. If you want the flowers in the flowering period to be good and do not seek many flowers, carry out strong pruning. In addition, for plants with poor growth, you should make up your mind to prune strongly, because such plants have poor root development; if the crown is too large, it easily causes insufficient nutrient supply. While pruning, it is best to do one high-concentration disinfection, which has a significant effect on preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches slant outward, they can be fixed with supports (wooden sticks, etc.), making the tree shape balanced and graceful, and avoiding branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. Branches sent out from buds at the lower part of slanting branches are more robust, and the flowers are also luxuriant; attention should be paid to protecting them.
After Awakening of Insects, insects successively wake from hibernation and begin activity. At this time, dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for treating powdery mildew in 10 liters of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because the Chinese rose has not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about pesticide damage.
About 20 days after pruning, the buds begin to sprout. Among them, weak and small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. To make the flowers bloom well, keep buds according to the thickness of the main branch: leave 3-4 buds on thick branches, 1-2 buds on branches the thickness of a pencil, and remove all the rest. In areas with cold weather, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be postponed.
If base fertilizer was applied in December, no topdressing is needed in early spring. When buds sprout, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After the buds sprout, if the surface is dry on sunny days, in order not to let the surface freeze, irrigate in the morning or before noon.
Oversummering management
Once the peak flowering period of potted Chinese roses passes, they enter the hot and humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant and semi-dormant state. Strengthening summer management of potted Chinese roses and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormancy period and keep them flowering continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shading and ventilation. Potted Chinese roses have limited soil, and in hot weather the soil easily heats up and dries out, so the Chinese roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. to place the potted flowers under trees in the yard or in a ventilated place under a shed, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light and create suitable environmental conditions for the Chinese rose to grow and bloom.
2. More fertilizer and water. Chinese roses bloom many times and need sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. Entering summer, their evaporation and consumption are both large, and growth is rapid; during the flowering period, apply thin fertilizer once every 10 days, and bean cake and poultry manure can also be soaked in water, sealed and fermented, then mixed with water as topdressing, making the plant bloom profusely and have luxuriant leaves, breaking the summer dormancy state of the Chinese rose. For watering, it is best to use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the pot soil and the water; using too-cold water will stimulate the root system and affect normal plant development.
3. Spray more water. Chinese roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and are most conducive to growth at an average temperature of 20-25°C. Therefore, in summer, besides appropriate shading, more water should be sprayed, preferably once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a humid environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning branches and pruning. After the Chinese rose blooms, cut below the third compound leaf under the flower, to promote the growth of sturdy new branches and early budding and flowering. Weak short branches are cut first and cut high; robust branches are cut later and cut short, so as to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote neat flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed axillary bud sprouting. In addition, it is not suitable to keep too many flowers per crop; for potted Chinese roses, 3-5 flowers are appropriate. Keeping too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, and the flowers are small and affect the next crop of flowers.
5. Loosen soil and weed. While clearing weeds on the pot surface, use a fine wire rake to gently break the surface layer around the flowerpot, enhancing the looseness and ventilation of the pot soil and promoting normal root growth.
6. Prevent and control pests and diseases. The place where flowerpots are placed should often be sprayed with 15% quicklime water or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July-August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is the high-incidence period of leaf spot and powdery mildew; spray with 0.3-0.5 degree Baume lime sulfur mixture once a week, for a total of 2-3 sprays. From June to July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the shoot tips should be cut off immediately. If other leaf-eating pests are found, spray 800 times monocrotophos for control immediately, which can kill eggs and larvae.
Pot cultivation techniques
1. Potting up
This refers to planting newly bred small seedlings or field-grown Chinese roses lifted as large plants before sprouting into pots. For small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture, and bare-root field-grown seedlings potted up, it is suitable to plant them in plain sandy loam for a period, and after the root system grows sturdy, use fertilized culture soil and place base fertilizer, then repot into a pot one size larger. For small seedlings rooted by cuttings in culture soil or field-grown small pots with soil balls, ordinary culture soil can be used for planting. When potting up, soak a new pot thoroughly with water first, wash an old pot clean, and according to the pot size place 1 cm to 3 cm thick coarse sand at the bottom as a drainage layer. Then fill part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting, pile the soil in the center of the pot into a small mound, hold the plant straight and upright with the left hand, fill soil with the right hand, and as you fill soil, gently lift the seedling upward, so that the roots droop at 45°. After planting, firm the soil. For root clumps potted with soil, also straighten the root hairs and plant the plant upright. Small seedlings are generally potted at any time; once they survive cultivation they should be potted in time to prevent spindly growth and weakening. Large field-grown plants must be potted during the dormant period after leaf fall in early winter or before sprouting in early spring, otherwise normal growth and development will be affected, tree vigor will weaken, and it will take a long time to rejuvenate. When potting, the soil should be moist and loose; after potting, do not water thoroughly for the time being, and pay attention to shading and wind protection. This not only promotes rapid healing of broken roots, but also makes it easy to rejuvenate and grow vigorously.
2. Repotting into a larger pot
According to the plant's growth condition and development needs, remove the whole root ball from a small pot and plant it into a large pot, including transitioning from plain soil planting to culture soil. This kind of repotting is generally not restricted by time. For example, small seedlings potted in a No. 2 pot in spring, if growing vigorously, can be moved to a No. 9 tall pot between July and August. If the plant is even larger, it can be planted in a pot one size larger. When removing from the pot, pinch the plant stem with the right index and middle fingers, with the palm close to the soil surface, and support the bottom of the pot with the left hand and turn the pot over. For small seedlings, tap the pot edge lightly with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and lightly knock the pot rim on a hard place, and the whole root ball can be removed with the plant. The original pot soil should be watered beforehand; when removing from the pot it must not be too dry or too wet. For repotting, use culture soil for planting; first remove the whole surface soil layer (the "treasure cover") and the lower drainage layer, then slightly loosen and straighten the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Operate gently and do not break the root ball. Then place it in the pot, add 20-60 g of hoof pieces as base fertilizer, fill soil and firm it; after repotting, continue normal care.
3. Changing the pot
For all kinds of Chinese roses that have been grown in pots for two years and have developed into form, in order to maintain vigorous plant growth and well-proportioned plant shape, every year after leaf fall and before sprouting, combine with pruning, replace the pot soil, and apply base fertilizer. When changing pots, generally still use flowerpots of the original specification, and no longer increase the size. For those stored sealed in earth cellars in winter, after removing the whole root ball from the pot, trim the roots; first remove the top layer cover and bottom drainage layer of the root ball, then cut off the overly dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball, carefully check and remove rotten roots and root nodules, and keep the protective root soil without breaking the root ball. In total, the old pot soil removed should not exceed 1/2. Then place it in a cold cellar for temporary planting, and pot it with new soil the following spring. For those placed in a cold room or a film cold frame in winter, they can be repotted with new soil into the original pot; the key operating points are the same as for repotting into a larger pot. After changing the pot, water thoroughly once, and then they can be put into the cold room or cold frame for care.
4. Water and fertilizer
During the growing season, potted roses should be watered in a timely manner as needed, keeping the potting soil moist at all times. In hot, dry weather, water should be sprayed on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh. In cold weather, watering should be controlled, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilization should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light and vigor, applying base fertilizer or top dressing at the right time and in the right amount.
Pruning techniques
Only by promptly removing spent rose flowers can the plant concentrate its nutrients and remain strong with continuous bloom. If spent flowers are not removed in time, the several axillary buds immediately below the spent flower often sprout and form weak branches. These small branches both consume nutrients and ruin the plant's shape, and even if they bloom, they are mostly deformed or inferior small flowers. In addition, except for flowers being grown for seed, spent flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first flush of bloom, medium branches should be cut back to a medium length, leaving 3 to 4 buds on the branch; weak branches should be cut back hard, leaving 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, leaving 5 buds, appropriately restraining growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only just above the second leaf below the spent flower and keeping the axillary bud of that second leaf, which is the bud with the best advantages in both growth and development and occupies the dominant position on the whole plant; removing this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality and the plant's vigor.
After the start of autumn, post-bloom pruning (the third flush) uses medium cutting, leaving 3 to 4 buds per branch. To keep the plant's shape balanced, the cut can also be made back on the branch that flowered in the previous flush. Overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches and rank-growing branches should be removed to improve ventilation and light penetration and keep the plant's shape even.
At the same time, post-bloom pruning of roses should also be combined with controlling the flowering period. For roses to be used for National Day, pruning can be done 45 days before flowering, cutting back to a medium length and leaving 3 to 4 buds, after which each branch will send out 2 small branches. After pruning, intensify fertilizer and water, take care to prevent waterlogging and powdery mildew, and the flowers will open successively in late September.
In addition, pruning can make polyantha roses flower earlier or later. Light pruning of such roses preserves more mature branches and makes the plant bloom two weeks earlier; hard pruning makes the plant send out strong branches that flower in autumn, delaying the autumn bloom by two weeks. Therefore, considering the plant as a whole, different pruning can be used to advance or extend the flowering period.
Rose cultivation methods and methods to promote flowering
Roses have large flowers and many blooms, so they need a lot of fertilizer and should be fertilized generously, with plenty of organic fertilizer applied before bud break. For potted roses, repot once in early spring, with a potting soil formula of: (loam) 5 : (leaf mold) 2 : (rotted manure) 2 : (sand) 1, plus a small amount of rapeseed cake, mixed evenly. After that, apply top dressing once every 10 to 15 days. The top dressing can be a liquid fertilizer made by fermenting cake fertilizer with phosphate fertilizer, diluted with water and applied. Especially after the peak bloom in May, fertilizer should be applied in time to promote summer and autumn flowering. [6]
During the growing season, roses should receive full sunlight, preferably maintaining 8 hours of light per day. If kept indoors for viewing, they should be moved in before 11 a.m. and moved out before 4 p.m., so they receive the soft light around midday, which helps extend the flowering time.
Roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and grow best at an average temperature of 20 to 25°C. Therefore, in summer, appropriate shading and frequent water spraying should be provided. To lower the temperature and replenish moisture, during the growing season it is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to create a humid environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.
After a rose blooms, it should be cut off below the third compound leaf beneath the flower to promote strong new branches and early bud formation and flowering. The key points of pruning technique are: weak, short branches are cut first and cut high; vigorous branches are cut later and cut short, to boost the weak and restrain the strong, promoting even flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid delayed sprouting of axillary buds. In addition, too many flowers should not be kept per flush; for potted roses, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate, while for field-planted roses it depends on the vigor of the plant. Keeping too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, making the flowers small and affecting the next flush. [7]
Fresh-cut techniques
Roses should be harvested and cut when the temperature is low and the humidity is high. If harvested too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally, they are harvested 1 to 2 days before flowering. The harvest time is related to the variety; usually, when 4 to 6 petals have loosened on the bud, it can be harvested. It is sometimes found that cut roses droop prematurely before the buds have opened; this situation is mainly due to harvesting too early at the bud stage, when the calyx is still tightly wrapping the bud. It is best to cut when the sepals form a 90° angle with the petals. When cutting, the branch should have 5 internodes or a somewhat longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the branch. One hour after cutting, place them in water to absorb water, then grade by length, tie in bundles of 10, and wrap in cellophane. Cut roses have a short vase life and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If the harvested roses are not to be sold on the market, they should be immediately stored in a low-temperature warehouse; the storage temperature is 1 to 2°C, and it is best to store them in water for wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is important; a low pH value is beneficial for cut roses. Be careful not to put the leaves in the water either. The freshness-promoting agent in the holding container is a mixture of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. The usual vase-preserving solution for roses is called the Cornell formula. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon in roses, cobalt acetate at a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, adding ammonium ethyl carbamoylphosphate can prevent red rose cut flowers from rotting, discoloring and wilting early.
Rose propagation methods and propagation
Mostly cutting propagation is used, but division and layering propagation are also possible. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable; for green cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally done in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if cuttings are taken in the open field, measures to increase moisture retention must be taken. Propagation by seed is used for sexual cross-breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting is used, and the rootstock is preferably wild rose. For example, yellow-series varieties.
Management
Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. Pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting: first cut out dense branches and dead branches, then cut out old and weak branches, leaving 2 to 3 outward-growing buds so the plant spreads in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thinning pruning should be carried out. After each flush of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower so it does not set seed and consume nutrients, keeping the plump middle and lower branches to promote early new growth and bloom again. Roses like a heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and a top dressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and force flowers. Roses have strict water requirements and must not be too wet or too dry; too dry and they wither, too wet and the roots are damaged and leaves drop.
Grafting
Cutting is the main method, with sowing and tissue culture as supplements. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose, pink cluster rose, 'Baiyutang' (rose), etc.
For field planting of roses, choose a sheltered, sunny site with good drainage. In addition to a heavy application of base fertilizer, top dressing should also be applied during the growing season. Pruning is an important task; besides dormant-season pruning, during the growing season attention should also be paid to bud removal, cutting out spent-flower branches and removing rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly for the production of cut flowers, usually planted at a spacing of 30cm×30cm, maintaining 15 to 17°C at night and 21 to 25°C during the day. Potted roses can be used for indoor viewing. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, appropriate pot diameter, moderate moisture, frequent light fertilization, flower removal and branch pruning, pest and disease control, and repotting every year.
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods for propagating roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual propagation; it combines parts of two plants into a single whole that continues to grow as one plant. In the graft combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part that bears the scion is called the rootstock. Some rose varieties are few in number and have striking flower colors, but their own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly; grafting onto vigorous rootstocks makes these rose varieties grow strongly and increases disease resistance.
Grafting can also faithfully reflect the various traits of the original variety, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, grafted plants formed after growth and development take only 23 days at the fastest from the day of grafting to the opening of the first flower, and individual plants can even flower 1 to 2 days earlier; most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to flower. This shows that compared with cuttings, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, 2012, grafting and cutting were done on the same day. Around July 25, about 20% of the grafted plants could flower, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings flowered around September 20 or even later. This shows that the advantages of grafting are very strong. Of course, grafting propagation is complex to perform and has high technical requirements. Below, the specific issues of grafting propagation are explained one by one.
Factors affecting grafting survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For rose grafting, a suitable grafting rootstock must first be selected. The rootstock not only bears the roles of mechanical support and absorption and conduction of water and nutrients, but also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock's root system. Various experiments have proven that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors related to whether ideal grafted rose seedlings can be produced. The rootstocks usually used are roses and their varieties, such as 'Fentuan' rose, 'Manitti' rose, Dutch rose and Japanese thornless rose, etc. These rose species have well-developed root systems, are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and have strong compatibility with the grafted varieties and stable heredity.
2. Grafting compatibility between rootstock and scion:
Grafting compatibility refers to the similarity in internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics between the rootstock and the scion. Through grafting, it can promote the plant to heal and survive and to be physiologically compatible after survival. The manifestations of weak compatibility and strong compatibility are relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the genetic relationship, the stronger the compatibility. Compatibility is strongest between the same variety or the same species. Grafting compatibility between different species of the same genus varies by species.
3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:
A fairly large area of close contact between the cambium parts of both the rootstock and the scion is one of the factors for grafting survival. In theory, completely aligning the cambium of both the rootstock and the scion is the most ideal grafting result, but this is difficult to achieve in actual operation; one can only strive to achieve the largest possible contact area.
4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity; only cell activity, including cell division, can promote the growth of the scion.
Usually, different rose varieties can have rapid cell growth within a temperature range of 13 to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, one should choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and with the cambium in vigorous activity. Such conditions generally occur in spring, early summer and September and October. The callus tissue grown from the cambium is composed of thin-walled, plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore, the union must be bound tightly to maintain tissue moisture. The rapid division of callus cells is often accompanied by respiration, and at this time oxygen is indispensable. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the union has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.
5. Quality of rootstock and scion:
According to the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison between its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, choosing one-year-old seedling plants as rootstock for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because they have well-developed root systems, strong disease resistance, smooth main stems and moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.
Grafting techniques
1. Disinfection of knives before grafting: When grafting, while ensuring that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are aligned, it is also necessary to ensure that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action must be nimble and quick, to avoid oxidation and discoloration of the cut surface.
2. Selection and storage of scions: The selection of rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether vigorous grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, eliminating the trouble of collecting them just before grafting and saving a great deal of time, allowing grafting at any time. The selection and storage of scions should pay attention to the following points:
(1). The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases; if there is powdery mildew, black spot or red spider, etc., it must not be used.
(2). Usually, one-year-old or less than one-year-old post-bloom scion wood can be selected; counting from the second axillary bud below the bract, the entire flowering branch can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, from 150 cm long to about 10 cm short, and contain varying numbers of graft buds; sometimes on the same scion branch the plumpness of the graft buds differs, so buds must be selected carefully. Generally speaking, graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting, with the best survival rate.
(3). As long as there are plump graft buds, scions can be stored for later use at any time of the year; of course, in summer they should be refrigerated, and in winter they can be stored in sand. The refrigeration and sand storage time must not be too long; usually the number of refrigerated and sand-stored scions should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number to be refrigerated or sand-stored can be determined by the speed of grafting. The premise of refrigeration and sand storage is that moisture and temperature must be appropriately maintained; only appropriate moisture and temperature maintenance can maintain the normal physiological activity of the scion wood. Practice has proven that scientific refrigeration and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
Grafting period
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific situations must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the survival rate of grafting is relatively reduced; below 5°C, grafted plants are in a dormant state, so grafting during the winter dormant period is suitable.
Grafting methods
According to production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1). On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a single-edge safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at a 30 to 40° angle. Then, in the same way and of the same size, select a plump, full graft bud on the scion wood and insert it into the prepared rootstock incision. Use a white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width to bind firmly from bottom to top with overlapping loops, with moderate tightness.
(2). When inserting the graft bud into the incision, the cambium should be aligned over as large an area as possible, so that the rootstock xylem is not exposed. This method is simple, convenient and quick, with a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements; one must master the technique of aligning the rootstock and scion in one go.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is also a popular method in rose grafting production.
(1). Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, about 5 to 8 mm wide, with a depth just reaching the xylem, then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening.
(2). Cut the scion wood from the mother plant, remove the leaf blades but keep the petioles, select a plump, full graft bud, use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem, then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the incision above the graft bud.
(3). Use the knife to lift open the bark of the T-shaped incision on the rootstock, insert the graft bud into the incision, and after insertion make fine adjustments so that the horizontal cut of the graft bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; placement in one go is most ideal. After the graft bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape, and the graft bud must be left exposed when binding. Although this method seems cumbersome and time-consuming, once proficient it can complete the grafting of one plant within one minute, and the grafting survival rate is extremely high and the survival quality excellent.
3. Large open-door budding: The large open-door budding method is also a very popular grafting method, with high technical requirements; the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion must not be exposed for too long. The key operating points are as follows:
(1). On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, with a depth just reaching the xylem, then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another cut in the same way. Both cuts are just to the xylem. Then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove the cut-off small square piece of bark to expose the xylem, then use the knife to lift it open.
(2). Remove the leaf blades from the scion wood but keep the petioles, select a plump, full graft bud, use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another vertical cut in the same way, then align with the two vertical cuts and make a horizontal cut to form a rectangular bud piece with the graft bud; all four cuts are to the depth of the xylem.
(3). Use the knife or hand to lift open the rootstock bark and insert the graft bud quickly and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of the rootstock and scion, bind with plastic tape, with moderate tightness. Grafting by this method gives a large contact area between the cambium of the rootstock and scion and rapid supply of nutrients, which can greatly increase the survival rate and survival quality.
(4). Rootless rootstock grafting: Rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto already lignified new thornless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose grafting propagation meets the needs of factory-style, specialized and large-scale production and is not restricted by the seasons. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt the above-mentioned chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding and large open-door budding methods. When this method is used for propagation in summer, the graft bud must carry 1 to 2 leaves, and moisture-retention care is required after cutting. If rootless rootstock grafting and cutting are carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C; for cold-frame cutting, cold-protection measures must be strengthened to avoid frost damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or winter, after grafting the cuttings are planted at a sparser density than ordinary rose cuttings. When planting, all cuttings should lean toward the north at 70°, with the graft bud side facing the sunny direction. Technical requirements: row spacing 5 cm×5 cm, planting depth about 3 cm.
Rose disease and pest control
1. Nettle grubs
Mainly the larvae of the yellow nettle grub, brown-edged green nettle grub, beautiful brown nettle grub, mulberry brown nettle grub and flat nettle grub, which consume large amounts of leaves in hot seasons. Control method: once found, immediately spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution, or spray with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
2. Scale insects
Mainly including white scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, brown soft scale, cottony cushion scale, chaff scale, snake-eye scale, etc. Their damage is characterized by piercing and sucking the sap of young rose stems and leaves, causing poor plant growth; it is mainly induced by high temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient light. Control method: during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray with 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
3. Aphids
Mainly rose aphid, green peach aphid, etc.; they pierce and suck the sap of the plant's young organs, damaging young stems, young leaves and flower buds, etc., seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: promptly spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
4. Rose three-section sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather in groups to cause damage, and in a short time can eat all the young leaves of the plant, leaving only a few main leaf veins, seriously harming the plant's normal growth. Control method: for a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick off the leaves where large numbers of larvae have gathered and trample them to death. When they appear in large numbers, spray with 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution.
5. Carmine spider mite
It can occur 10 to 16 generations a year. Adult mites, young mites and nymphs gather on the underside of leaves to pierce and suck and cause damage. Eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the underside of the leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50 to 150 eggs, up to 500 at most. The time to complete one generation is only 10 to 13 days at a temperature of 23 to 25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It breaks out rampantly in hot, dry seasons, often causing large numbers of dense small white spots on the upper surface of leaves, with the underside turning yellow and occasionally bearing dead spots. Control method: once found, promptly spray with 25% pyridaben wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, black velvet scarab, white-star flower scarab, small green flower scarab, etc., which often use adults to chew new leaves, tender shoots and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: taking advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior, shake them off in the evening and kill them. Taking advantage of the adults' phototaxis, use black light lamps to trap and kill them. When adults are feeding and causing damage, spray with 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.
7. Borers
The rose borer is the larva of the rose stem sawfly, which bores holes in the stem, drills into the stem to feed, causing the branch to break and the upper part to die. The larva is white, with a pale yellow head, and about 15 to 17 mm long. The adult has wings, a black body, and yellow on both sides of the abdomen. The pupa is vermilion. It usually has 1 generation a year, causes damage in May and June, pupates in the stem to overwinter, and is a relatively serious pest. Black spot: mainly infects leaves, petioles and tender shoots. When the leaf first becomes diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the upper surface, which after expanding are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil and other drugs can be sprayed.
8. Powdery mildew
It infects young leaves, with white powdery matter appearing on both sides. Early symptoms are not obvious. Three to 5 days after the powdery layer appears, the leaves become water-soaked, gradually lose green and turn yellow, and in severe cases cause the leaves to drop. Spraying carbendazim or triadimefon during the onset period is sufficient, but Guoguang Yingna has the best effect.
9. Leaf blight
It mostly invades from the leaf tip or leaf margin, initially as small yellow spots, then rapidly expanding inward into irregular large patches; severely affected leaves wither over 2/3 of the leaf, the diseased part loses green and turns yellow, and turns brown, dries up and drops. To control the above diseases, in addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management, in winter the diseased branches and leaves should be cut off, the fallen leaves on the ground cleared away, and the sources of initial infection reduced. When the disease occurs, comprehensive control should be adopted, and fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed.
10. Black spot
It mainly infects leaves, petioles and tender shoots. When the leaf first becomes diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the upper surface, which after expanding are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil and other drugs can be sprayed.
Rose variety classification and classification overview
In the dicotyledon class of angiosperms, the three outstanding members of the Rosaceae family - rugosa rose, Chinese rose and rose - are actually all plants of the genus Rosa. In Chinese, people are accustomed to calling varieties with large-diameter, solitary flowers Chinese rose, those with small clustered flowers rose, and those from which essence can be extracted rugosa rose. But in English they can all be collectively called rose. According to officially registered varieties, there are about thirty thousand roses. In fact, the more than 200 major varieties under the genus Rosa are all called rose abroad, and in Taiwan they are all called rose.
Main types
The main types of roses include edible rose, climbing rose (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea rose (cut roses are mainly large-flowered hybrid tea roses) (HT series), floribunda rose (polyantha rose) (F/FI series), miniature rose (Min series), tree rose, grandiflora rose (Gr series), shrub rose (sh series), ground-cover rose (Gc series), etc.
Climbing rose (CI series)
A new star in landscaping - the climbing rose is a climbing shrub of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae, with relatively tall plants. Each year it sends out thick new branches from the base, and thicker lateral branches grow from the tips of two-year-old climbing branches. It has a four-season flowering habit, but the largest number of flowers occurs only in late spring or early summer. It is a climbing growth type, with well-developed roots, extremely strong resistance, rapid branch sprouting and vigorous growth. One plant sends out 7 to 8 main branches a year, and each main branch branches in an open manner; the maximum annual growth can reach 5 m, and it has very strong disease resistance.
It is easy to manage, tolerant of pruning, rich in flower forms, and blooms continuously in all four seasons (some are also one-season or two-season flowering types), with brilliant, bold flower colors, a long flowering period and a rich fragrance. Flower colors include vermilion, bright red, fresh red, pink, golden yellow, orange yellow, bicolor, pure white, etc. It sprouts from two-year-old internodes, blooms all over the plant, and has numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, flower waterfalls, arch shapes and corridor shapes.
Cut roses
Varieties include:
1. Red series: Royal Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (classic variety), Orange-red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (classic variety), Huan Teng, Changhong, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Pink Fan, Orchid Moon, Parade (classic variety), Angela, etc.
4. White series: Baihe, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (classic variety), Flower Fairy, Caiyun, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Purple Robe Jade Belt (classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Earth, Sweet Dream, Xishui, etc.
Large-flowered hybrid tea rose (HT series)
There are many varieties, and it is the main body of modern roses. Its characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flower forms, many flower colors, bright and lively, with a fragrant scent and strong ornamental value.
Varieties include:
1. White: Tin Walter, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Tineke (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold (classic variety), Gold Medal, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc.
3. Red: Crimson Fan, Superstar (classic variety), Mélane Lipstick, Cartier Playing Cards, Han Qian, Rose Center, Congressman Buda, Fragrant Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon (classic variety), Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Blue River (classic variety), Heaven, etc.
5. Black-red: Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, an exemplary large-flowered hybrid tea rose variety, the standard flower for rose judging), Warrior, Big Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Bānlìyán, Black Pearl, Vermilion and Ink Double Radiance, etc.
6. Green: Green Star, Green Calyx.
7. Orange: Jesta. Joey, Quintley, Golden Bull, Maxina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: Pink Fan, Pink Peace (classic variety), First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Intoxicating Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Chicago Peace (classic variety), Double Delight (classic variety, first among the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Greek Village (fragrant) (classic variety), Mélane Capriccio, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chekhov, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Caiyun, Garibaldi, Float, etc.
Floribunda rose (F/FI series)
Floribunda roses have an expansive growth habit, with flower heads in clusters. They are cold-resistant, heat-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant and disease-resistant, with extremely strong adaptability to the environment. They are widely used in urban environmental greening, the arrangement of garden flower beds, expressways, etc.
Miniature rose (Min series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short, spherical plant shape and numerous flower heads. Because of its unique character it is also called "diamond rose". It is mainly used for potted viewing, dotting lawns and arranging flower color patterns.
Tree rose
Tree rose, also called rose tree or rose standard, achieves a standard upright trunk and crown through two or more grafting steps. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4 to 2.0 m, trunk diameter 1 to 5 cm).
Advantages: good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with clear layers, visually refreshing; diverse shapes, including round ball type, fan type, waterfall type, miniature, etc.; it retains the advantages of ordinary roses such as strong fragrance, long flowering period and diverse flower colors, while appearing more novel, more noble and more passionate, and therefore has higher aesthetic value.
Habits: strong adaptability. The flower crown of the tree rose is farther from the ground than ordinary flowers, so it is not easily infected by soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is sourced from rose, with well-developed roots and extremely strong vitality of the Rosaceae rose; especially in areas with relatively high alkalinity, where planting ordinary roses is difficult, the tree rose fills the gap.
Ground-cover rose (Gc series)
The latest ecological vegetation flower - the ground-cover rose, its growth situation is:
It spreads in a creeping manner, with a height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant sprouts more than 50 branches a year, the branches root where they touch the ground, and each branch blooms 50 to 100 flowers at a time.
The root system is well developed and can root as deep as more than 2 m.
Large coverage area, with a single plant covering more than 1 sq m.
Flowering is strongly gregarious, with blooms continuing through all four seasons.
Its biological habits are:
Drought-tolerant, able to grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150-200 mm.
Tolerant of poor soil, slopes and deep shade; it can be planted and grown in areas where irrigation is difficult.
Tolerant of high temperature and high humidity; it grows normally at both -30°C and 42°C.
Requires only rough management and has strong disease resistance; no pesticide application and no pruning are needed, greatly reducing management costs.
Highly effective for colour blocks and roadside strips. Ground-cover roses have deep roots and luxuriant foliage, spread widely, and their leaves have strong respiration, giving them a high absorption rate for urban dust and harmful substances; they are an excellent choice for conserving water sources and preventing soil erosion.
Varieties include: Brazilino, Ground Cover No. 1, Hadefujun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympics and others, and Flower Carpet.
Peace Rose
The Peace rose was bred by the Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. Under the code number 3-35-40, he sent this rose to the United States. After the American horticulturist Robert Pyle received this variety that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important flower nurseries across the northern and southern United States for propagation. Several years later, this new variety made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout the United States. In 1945, the American Rose Society named this variety Peace and declared: We are convinced that this, the most remarkable new rose of our time, should be named after the greatest wish of the people of the world today, "Peace", and we believe that the Peace rose will stand as a model and grow forever in the gardens of our children and grandchildren. On the very day the Peace rose was named, it happened that the allied forces captured Berlin and Hitler was destroyed. And when the Peace rose received the unconditional surrender of American imperialism. When the United Nations was founded and held its first meeting in San Francisco, every delegate's room had in its vase a bouquet of Peace roses presented by the American Rose Society. A note on it read: We hope the "Peace" rose can influence people's minds and give the world lasting peace. During the Second World War, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice, fourteen kilometres from Prague, killed one hundred and seventy-five men over the age of fifteen and locked the women and children into concentration camps. After the war, to commemorate these people, many rose experts and some voluntary donors built a rose garden here in 1955, whose main variety was the Peace rose.
Red Hat Rose
Product name: Red Hat Rose
Category: Flowering shrubs -> Red Hat Rose
Product introduction: Red Hat Rose, scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Climbing Rose
Distribution: Native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces; now widely cultivated everywhere, especially the original species and the ever-blooming red rose. The original species and most of its varieties were introduced abroad as early as the beginning of the 18th century and became important original material for modern rose hybridisation and breeding.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen or semi-evergreen erect shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5 cm, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acute, margins sharply serrate, hairless on both surfaces, glossy above; petiole and rachis sparsely bearing prickles and short glandular hairs, stipules mostly adnate to the petiole, margins with glandular cilia. Flowers often several clustered, rarely solitary, about 5 cm across, dark red, pink, to nearly white, faintly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margins glandular-hairy; pedicels mostly slender, glandular-hairy. Fruit ovoid to spherical, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Flowering period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Variety evolution
Breeding and variety evolution: The process of rose breeding and variety evolution is divided into three separate periods. In these three periods the breeding methods were relatively different, but the theme of breeding, namely genetic change, was common to all. The three periods are divided as follows:
1. Early period (prehistoric times to 1875)
2. Modern period (1875-1967)
3. Contemporary period (1967 to present)
The first period lasted about 5,000 years, until 1875, when Mendel published his famous laws of hybrid inheritance and rose breeding also developed into directed hybridisation breeding. From then on, most rose breeders considered breeding issues from the perspective of Mendelian inheritance or qualitative inheritance, while quantitative inheritance or weighted inheritance behaviour in breeding was still little known or rarely applied at that time.
The outline of rose breeding in the first period is as follows:
1. Numerous rose species were collected and all planted together.
2. Only very few of these species contributed to rose breeding in the second period.
3. Intraspecific hybridisation was a naturally occurring process.
4. New varieties came only from natural pollination.
5. Rose breeding work was concentrated in Western Europe and the United States.
6. The natural evolutionary trend was from diploid to tetraploid.
7. A primitive, enormous gene pool was formed.
8. Domestication reduced genetic resources.
9. Rose varieties before 1875 are inferred.
The second period began with the application of directed techniques and ended in 1967. From 1967 onward, molecular biology techniques began to be applied in roses. This period lasted 90 years.
The third period began in 1967 and has already gone through more than 30 years.
The beginning of rose breeding: people engaged in horticulture in early times selected superior types from wild roses and planted them together. In a very early prehistoric period, several rose species or several of their domesticated varieties were already cultivated in China, Persia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Italy, far earlier than the first year of the Common Era. In ancient horticulture, it is unclear whether roses were propagated by seed or asexually, but over more than 5,000 years, by sowing seeds obtained from natural pollination, a large number of new varieties appeared.
The domestication of varieties and the production of intraspecific hybrids was a long process; some undesirable primitive types were discarded, asexual propagation techniques developed, and the progress of domestication accelerated. Through introduction by travellers and variety replacement, horticulturists obtained new genetic resources (any domesticated species undergoes very little genetic change). Early breeders knew that planting one variety together with other varieties had a great influence on the offspring, and they also kept considerable records of the female parents and the new varieties produced, enabling us to identify the evolutionary process of some varieties, but breeders at that time still did not understand that male parent characteristics would be passed on to the next generation through pollination. At that time, some diploid varieties also evolved into tetraploid varieties. Almost all the main modern rose varieties are tetraploids. It is worth noting that within some continuously flowering varieties, vigour increased with increasing ploidy; had this knowledge been understood earlier, it might have aroused the interest of breeders of that period in directed breeding of tetraploid new varieties from diploids.
The China rose, native to China, played a more important role in the breeding of new Western European rose varieties than any other rose species. It brought to new varieties the phenomena of continuous flowering and bushy growth that were hitherto unknown. Multiflora rose was also a very important parent, giving roses the characteristic of umbel-like inflorescences.
In the second period, research in biomolecules developed unprecedentedly. But there was not much scientific research on roses, as can be seen from the past two journals, Plant Breeding and Horticultural Abstracts, in which among the thousands of papers each year there were very few articles on roses. Scientific research work on roses was mainly concentrated on taxonomic cytology, physiology, morphology, growing conditions, varieties and rootstocks. The goals of breeding research lay in trait inheritance, simplification of hybridisation breeding procedures, and raising the rates of direct and indirect selection; research on low-energy-consuming and pest- and disease-resistant varieties was relatively scarce and far behind that of fruit trees. For example, almost all breeding work was confined to universities or research institutes.
In the second period, there were two major discoveries. First, the breeding of continuously flowering, large-flowered varieties, which was achieved by Pernet in 1900. It marked the first success in directed interspecific hybridisation breeding of roses.
The second major achievement was in 1920, the breeding of the old dwarf compact variety "pompon de paris". This new type was rediscovered in Switzerland and is now named R. roulettii Corre von; it is the origin of some modern miniature roses.
In the early part of the second period, people discovered a large number of gene types in roses. Faced with abundant genetic resources, breeders of the second period seized the opportunity; some parents were selected and retained, others were discarded, hybridisation breeding techniques were further developed, and indoor hybridisation breeding began. Many different original parents could be crossed with one another, and as a result the originally clear boundaries between different species disappeared.
In the 1930s, roses were divided into greenhouse roses and open-ground roses. Encouraged by the demand for the two categories of varieties, breeders began to select types suited to their respective specific environments. Today, breeders are mainly concentrated on the first category, because the quality of greenhouse varieties is 3-5 times that of open-ground varieties, making greenhouse varieties particularly eye-catching. Because there have always still been very abundant genetic resources among varieties, breeders have been quite successful in breeding work for the two categories, and gradually some types suitable for greenhouse production have been bred, including some small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered varieties.
Generally speaking, there is no difference in method between the selection and breeding of greenhouse roses and open-ground roses. When it comes to methods or selection procedures, breeders mostly use negative methods to select their seedlings. In the selection process, about 99% of seedlings are eliminated. This method of strict selection among tens of thousands of seedlings each year continued for nearly 100 years, which inevitably led to serious loss of genes. Worse still, almost every breeder selected the same traits and therefore applied the same selection criteria.
Differences from the rose
The rose has tall, long stems, mostly straight prickles, small flowers, a single flower colour and a short flowering period. Its flowering branches are upright and its flower colours are rich, and it is fragrant; rose leaflets are also in 5-9 leaflets, but the lower surface of the leaf is wrinkled, the leaf underside is whitish with small prickles, and the whole leaf is rather thick with sunken veins. The China rose has low, short stems, large prickles, roughly 3 or 4 hooks per node; large flowers, rich flower colours, a faint or no scent, and leaflets generally in 3-5 leaflets that are flat and smooth.
The uses and purposes of the China rose; its influence on the home environment
1. A China rose in the home gives you a home full of poetry. Different kinds of China roses have different flower meanings. For example, the flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink China rose: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red China rose: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white China rose: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow China rose: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white China rose: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black China rose: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple China rose: preciousness, cherishing. Such an interesting flower, planted as a single specimen, gives your whole home a new face.
2. A darker exterior makes the owner feel more spirited. Usually, dark things give people a visual impact. Just imagine: if you come home and face four walls that are all white, and the furniture you see is all light-coloured, it is very lifeless. If you suddenly see a vigorously growing China rose beside the television, the whole person will immediately perk up, because the eyes receive a sudden change; a person becomes cheerful, life in particular becomes full of vitality, and you feel especially good.
3. The role of greening the home is also self-evident. The China rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets sparsely bearing prickles, and some are almost thornless; leaf margins are serrate, hairless and smooth on both surfaces, and stipules are united with the petiole. Flowers are borne at the tips of branches, usually clustered, rarely solitary, in very many colours. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but also single-flowered; the flowers are faintly fragrant. The fleshy rose hip, when ripe, is red-yellow and splits open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Such a beautiful China rose constantly absorbs components in the air that are unfavourable to human life and releases oxygen beneficial to the human body, so its greening effect is achieved without one even noticing.
Feng shui effects
First, planting China roses in one's own garden can make family members feel refreshed and lively. The China rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets sparsely bearing prickles, and some are almost thornless; leaf margins are serrate, hairless and smooth on both surfaces, and stipules are united with the petiole. Flowers are borne at the tips of branches, usually clustered, rarely solitary, in very many colours. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but also single-flowered; the flowers are faintly fragrant. The fleshy rose hip, when ripe, is red-yellow and splits open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Its bright red exterior makes people feel spirited. At the same time, it should be noted that the China rose is a relatively toxic plant, so we cannot plant it too close to us, for example in the living room or bedroom, and when planting it in the garden we also cannot plant too many, because its fragrance is toxic.
Then, plant a few China roses in the backyard of the home, and the family's life becomes happier and happier. The flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink China rose: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red China rose: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white China rose: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow China rose: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white China rose: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black China rose: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple China rose: preciousness, cherishing. The symbolic meaning of the China rose is very obvious. If a family lives together every day and looks at the China rose from afar, associating it with the meanings it represents, and thereby cherishes every day of living together with family, happiness begins right there, and this home where they live together also becomes a home of good feng shui.
The garden uses of the China rose: landscaping
In landscaping, the China rose has indispensable value. Among flowers, the China rose is the most frequently used in gardens in both north and south. The China rose is the main ornamental flower in spring; its flowering period is long, its ornamental value is high, and its price is low, so it is loved by gardens everywhere.
The "bond" role
Because of its climbing growth habit, the China rose is mainly used for vertical greening and has a unique role in garden streetscapes and beautiful flower environments. If it can form an ornamental
purpose walkway and flower pillars, made into various arches, grid shapes, and frame-style trellises for China roses to climb on, and then given appropriate pruning and shaping, it can decorate buildings and become a clever "bond" linking buildings with the garden.
Environmental protection role
It can be made into continuous flower hedges, flower screens and flower walls, used in government offices, schools, residential communities, urban squares and other places. It can not only purify the air and beautify the environment, but also greatly reduce noise pollution in the surrounding areas and alleviate the greenhouse effect of the city in the hot summer.
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of the China rose
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huhua Web is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, follow doctor's orders.
The ultimate flower-protecting task: to love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow doctor's orders. As for illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
[Aliases] Yueyuehong, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Changchunhua, Yueyuehua. Yanxuehong, ChouChunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke.
[Definition]: The dried flower of the China rose, a plant of the Rosaceae family.
[Collection]: Can be harvested throughout the year; pick when the flowers are slightly open.
[Nature, flavour and meridian entry]: Sweet, bland, slightly bitter, neutral. Enters the liver meridian.
[Efficacy]: Activates blood and regulates menstruation, soothes the liver and relieves depression, reduces swelling and detoxifies.
[Indications]: 1. Liver depression and blood stagnation, irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhoea, amenorrhoea and distending pain in the chest and hypochondrium; 2. traumatic injuries, stasis and swelling with pain, carbuncles and swellings with toxin, scrofula. [11]
[Trade name] China rose. Those with complete flower buds or just-opened flowers, dry, bright in colour and clear in fragrance are considered best.
[Prescription names] Yueji, Yuejihua, Yueyuehong, Sijihua.
The China rose is not only an ornamental flower with a long flowering period and fragrant, colourful blooms, but also a good gynaecological medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine holds that the China rose is sweet in flavour and warm in nature, enters the liver meridian, and has the effects of activating blood and regulating menstruation, reducing swelling and detoxifying. Because the China rose has obvious effects in removing stasis, promoting the flow of qi and relieving pain, it is often used to treat irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhoea and other conditions.
Clinical reports say that when women have amenorrhoea or scanty, pale and light menstruation, lower abdominal pain, together with poor spirits and dry bound stools, or when the above symptoms appear during the menstrual period, treatment with Shengchun Tang gives good results. The medicinal composition of Shengchun Tang is: China rose 10 g, angelica 10 g, salvia 10 g, white peony 10 g, plus an appropriate amount of brown sugar, decocted in clear water and taken. The decoction tastes sweet and fragrant, with no difficulty in swallowing. Take 3 doses 3-5 days before each menstrual period, each time boiling one egg together with it; the effect is reliable, and it is truly a wonderful formula for regulating menstruation, regulating qi and activating blood.
The China rose used together with bitter orange flower is an even better formula for treating menstrual diseases caused by disharmony of qi and blood. Use 15 g each of China rose and bitter orange flower, decoct in water and take. The China rose emphasises activating blood, while bitter orange flower tends to promote the flow of qi. The two medicines paired together, one qi and one blood, regulate both qi and blood, and their effects in regulating menstruation and activating blood, and in promoting the flow of qi and relieving pain, are very good. It mainly treats conditions in women such as stagnant liver qi, disharmony of qi and blood, and obstruction of the meridians by stasis, leading to irregular menstruation, chest and abdominal pain, poor appetite or even nausea and vomiting.
For common gynaecological diseases, folk single remedies and proven remedies using the China rose are also very effective. For example: 20 g of fresh China rose infused in boiling water can treat irregular menstruation or abdominal pain during menstruation; 30 g of China rose root, 15 g each of cockscomb flower and motherwort, decocted in water to cook eggs and eaten, can treat dysmenorrhoea;
For excessive menstruation and excessive vaginal discharge, use 15 g of China rose (or root) decocted in water and taken, or stewed with pork and eaten; 10 g of China rose and 12 g of jujube decocted together, with an appropriate amount of honey added after the decoction is ready, is both fragrant and sweet, not like medicine at all, and is very effective for hot flushes during the menstrual period. In addition, women often steep China rose petals in water as tea, or add them to other beauty teas to drink, which can also activate blood and beautify, helping people stay youthful.
The cultural background of the China rose
One of China's top ten famous flowers. The China rose is known as the "queen of flowers", and it also embodies a spirit of unyielding resilience, with a fragrance that carries far.
Status in traditional culture
The China rose occupies a weak position in traditional Chinese culture, but new archaeological discoveries show that the China rose was the totem plant of the northern lineage of the ancestors of the Chinese people, equivalent to the legendary Yellow Emperor's tribe.
The China rose is now the city flower of Beijing and other cities.
China Rose Flower Fair, 1 May to 20 May. Every year at this time, Zhengzhou holds a China rose flower fair. Not only do the organisers present China roses of all colours, but the city's residents can also bring out famous varieties they have cultivated at home for many years. At that time the whole city is full of flowers, and beautiful fresh flowers with rich fragrance are everywhere in parks and streets.
Legend
Long ago, at the foot of Mount Shennong there was a family surnamed Gao, who had a daughter named Yulan, just eighteen years old, gentle and quiet. Many young nobles came to seek her hand, but Yulan agreed to none of them. This was because she had an elderly mother who coughed and spat blood all year round, and no treatment with many medicines had any effect at all. So Yulan, without telling her parents, posted a notice seeking a doctor: "Whoever cures my mother's illness, I am willing to marry him." A young man named Zhongyuan responded to the notice and offered a formula. After Yulan's mother took his medicine, she indeed recovered. Yulan did not break her promise and married Zhongyuan. On their wedding night, Yulan asked what miraculous formula was so effective, and Zhongyuan answered: "China rose, China rose, a good remedy for clearing coughs. This is a secret formula passed down in the family: rock sugar stewed together with China rose makes a miraculous decoction for clearing coughs and stopping bleeding, specially for treating women's illnesses." Yulan nodded and kept it in mind.
The China rose as a national flower and city flower
It is the city flower of Fuyang, the city flower of Beijing, the city flower of Tianjin, the city flower of Shijiazhuang, the city flower of Nanyang, the city flower of Changzhou, the city flower of Huai'an and the city flower of Liuzhou.
The national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
The flower meaning of the China rose
The flower meaning of the China rose: waiting for hoped-for hope, happiness, glory, and beauty ever renewed. [13]
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink China rose: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of red China rose: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of white China rose: respect, loftiness, purity.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow China rose: full of youthful spirit, beauty.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white China rose: innocence, frugality or a pure heart.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of black China rose: individuality and creativity.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple China rose: preciousness, cherishing.
China rose pictures