Common pests and diseases of Clivia and their control methods
Common diseases of Clivia and their control methods:
1. Soft rot: also known as rot disease, head rot, etc. It mostly occurs on the lower leaves. At first the lesions appear dark green and water-soaked, then they spread and merge into patches. The diseased leaves rot, soften and droop, and the disease spreads to the root system, causing the whole plant to topple over and the central leaves to fall off.
Control methods: Disinfect the soil before planting and repotting. Water moderately, apply fully decomposed fertilizer, and in hot, humid seasons pay attention to ventilation and cooling. In the early stage of the disease, dilute antibiotics such as penicillin, streptomycin or oxytetracycline 5000 times with water and spray on the leaves or apply to the affected areas, or spray 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800-1000 times dilution, applying once every 7 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays. For plants with root rot, take the plant out of the pot, shake off the soil, remove the rotten parts, disinfect, and then carry out root-inducing treatment.
2. Anthracnose: After infection, moist brownish small spots appear on the leaves and gradually expand into round, oval or semicircular lesions. The lesions bear concentric rings and scattered black granular bodies on their surface. This disease is common in rainy and humid seasons, especially when watering in the evening and when plants are placed too close together, both of which make infection more likely.
Control methods: When the disease occurs, promptly prune off diseased leaves and remove and destroy diseased plant debris. Spray 70% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution, 50% carbendazim at 800 times dilution, or 70% anthracnose-formaldehyde (Fumei) at 600-800 times dilution for control.
3. Southern blight: also known as sclerotial root rot. The disease occurs where the plant is close to the soil, producing water-soaked brown soft rot. White silky hyphae cover the affected areas, and the mycelium spreads over the soil surface, mostly in a radial pattern, later forming sclerotia. When the plant is severely affected, the base rots and withers, and the plant dies. This disease often occurs under high temperature and high humidity.
Control methods: Remove the diseased parts. Disinfect the plant base with 0.1% mercuric chloride solution for 5-8 minutes, then wash with water, and soak in 50-100 mg/kg naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) for several hours, then replant in disinfected moist sandy soil to induce rooting. When changing the potting soil, use sterilized potting soil. In the early stage of the disease, drench with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 500 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once every 7-10 days.
4. Leaf spot: In the early stage of infection, brown spots appear on the leaves, then gradually expand into yellowish-brown irregular large lesions that are sunken with slightly raised edges. Later the lesions dry up and bear small black dots on the surface.
Control methods: Remove the diseased parts and burn them. Spray the leaves with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, or 50% Tuzet wettable powder at 800-1000 times dilution, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600-1000 times dilution, once every 7 days for 3 consecutive sprays. In addition, strengthen management, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, control nitrogen fertilizer, and improve the plant's disease resistance.
5. Sunscald: also called sunburn, mainly caused by overly strong direct sunlight hitting the leaf surface and killing the leaf cells. In mild cases the leaf edges turn white; in severe cases the leaf tissue dies and the injured parts of the leaf become scorched. It mostly occurs in the hot summer or from late summer to early autumn.
Control methods: In summer, shade must be provided to prevent direct sunlight, and attention should be paid to ventilation and cooling.
The insect pests of Clivia are mainly scale insects and some mollusks. The scale insects that harm Clivia include the cottony cushion scale, red round scale and brown soft scale. Scale insects gather on the leaves and leaf sheaths, piercing and sucking sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and wither and the plant to grow poorly. Apart from the eggs, the adult stage secretes a waxy substance and induces sooty mold. In addition, they are also vectors that spread plant viruses.
Control methods: Use a bamboo needle, toothpick or match to gently pry the scale insects off the plant, or brush them off with a sponge or soft brush, or wipe off the scale insects and sooty mold with a damp cloth, or wash them off with water. During the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray the leaves with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1200 times dilution, or 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500 times dilution, once every 7 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
Common pests and diseases of Clivia, and their control methods
Many people do not know how to grow Clivia, or grow it improperly, which often allows pathogens or insect pests to invade, resulting in southern blight, soft rot, anthracnose and other pest and disease problems. So how should we deal with them? Below, let us explain the common pests and diseases of Clivia and their control methods.
I. Leaf wilt disease
It occurs at the tips of young leaves, with symptoms developing from top to bottom; in severe cases the whole leaf turns yellow and withers. This disease is caused by root-collar rot, also called root rot, a relatively serious disease caused by a fungus attacking the roots. It mainly damages the root zone (root collar) of the plant and the cortex and phloem of the stem near the ground surface; it is a physiological disease that occurs due to excessive fertilizer or overwatering.
Control methods:
1. If it is caused by excessive fertilizer, change the potting soil, place a layer of fine sand under the roots, and use loose leaf-mold soil for the pot, preferably with a neutral pH.
2. If it is caused by too much water, control the amount of watering and remove the yellow leaves; the plant can still resume normal growth.
II. Southern blight
When this disease occurs, water-soaked brown irregular lesions appear on the stem near the roots, the cortex soft-rots, and then white silky mycelium grows and spreads over the soil surface around the root zone, later forming small sclerotia, and finally becoming the color of rapeseed and enlarging until the whole base rots and dies.
Control methods:
1. Before potting, the potting soil must be disinfected. A relatively simple method is to keep the potting soil at 60°C for 24 hours
2. Always observe the soil surface; when white fungal threads are found, pick them out and burn them, and sprinkle some lime powder around the diseased spot to disinfect it;
3. In the early stage of the disease, drench the plant base and the soil around the base with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once a week, 2-3 times in total.
III. Soft rot
The pathogen often invades through wounds. When the disease occurs, pale yellow water-soaked spots appear on the leaves, then expand into irregular lesions, turning the leaves brown and soft-rotted, with bacterial fluid flowing out from the lesion wounds.
Control methods:
1. Once this disease is found, immediately separate the diseased plant, dig away the potting soil around the plant to expose the affected area, pull apart the rotten diseased leaves, scrape off the rotten parts with a sterilized knife, expose to appropriate sunlight, and keep it ventilated and dry
2. If many plants are rotting, all diseased tissue must be cut away, soaked in 5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 1 hour, rinsed with clean water and air-dried, apply plant ash to the cuts, repot in fresh soil, and place in a well-ventilated spot with a not-too-high temperature
3. For chemical treatment, penicillin, streptomycin or oxytetracycline diluted with 4000-**** times water can be sprayed or applied to the lesions, with some effect.
IV. Anthracnose
This disease mostly occurs in rainy, humid and muggy seasons, and the affected parts are mostly the leaf tips and leaf edges. In the early stage, moist brownish small spots appear on the leaves, then expand into oval and wave-shaped main lesions, surrounded by yellow, and later gradually shrink and dry up. Overly wet potting soil and excessive nitrogen fertilizer make this disease more likely.
Control methods:
1. Give the pot a well-ventilated environment with good light. The potting soil should only be kept moist; do not water too much or too often. Increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and control nitrogen fertilizer.
2. When signs of the disease are found, immediately spray a solution made with 50% wettable carbendazim powder plus 800 times water, or a solution of 60% anthracnose-formaldehyde (Fumei) plus 1000 times water, about once every 6 days, and 3-5 sprays will show results.
V. Leaf spot
Yellow small spots appear on the leaves, and the lesions enlarge to about 3-5 mm in diameter, round; when the lesions spread and merge into one patch, the leaves turn yellow and wither. Another type has large, irregularly shaped lesions on the leaves, yellowish-brown to grayish-brown, with slight concentric rings, and later small black dots appear on the underside of the lesions. Both of the above diseases are caused by poor ventilation and parasitism by scale insects, which weaken the plant's growth.
Control methods:
1. Apply 0.5% potassium permanganate solution to the lesions, or spray with 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution.
2. When the disease is severe, remove the affected leaves and burn them, and blot the wounds dry with sterile absorbent cotton.
VI. High-fever disease
Caused by bacterial infection, also called "head rot". It is most likely to occur in hot and humid seasons.
Control methods:
The main thing is to pay attention to the growing environment. Once this disease occurs, the rescue measure is to wipe the central leaves with cool water so that their temperature no longer rises.
VII. Common insect pests
The common insect pest of Clivia is the scale insect. When infestation occurs, scale insects often gather on the tender tips of the leaves, sucking leaf sap and secreting large amounts of pathogens, turning the stems and leaves moldy black, causing sooty mold and making the leaves wither. This insect has strong reproductive capacity and can produce multiple generations a year; a single female adult can often produce hundreds of offspring. If control measures are not taken in time, it can cause death.
Control methods:
Prevention should be the priority. Usually, always observe the plant and, when pests are found, control them early to prevent spread. Scale insects can be controlled by both manual and chemical means at the same time. If pests are found on only 1 or 2 leaf tips, they can be scraped off manually, using a pointed thin wooden stick or a bamboo skewer to pick off the insects. If a large number of nymphs appear, spray with 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, or spray with a solution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate plus 1000-1500 times water. Generally, 1-2 sprays can kill them.
Earthworms can also become pests of Clivia. When the Clivia plant is young, its fleshy roots are very tender and weak. If there are earthworms in the potting soil, they often burrow around everywhere, injuring the tender roots, damaging the plant's ability to absorb nutrients, and causing the plant to stop growing or develop root rot.
Control methods:
Always check whether there are round soil pellets (that is, earthworm droppings) on the soil surface. If found, immediately drench with a solution of 50% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate plus 1500-2000 times water. If earthworms appear and move about after drenching, remove them immediately; repeat the same treatment one week later, and the earthworms can be completely eliminated.
The above is an introduction to the common pests and diseases of Clivia and their control methods. We hope it can help you. For more home knowledge, please stay tuned.
Common pest and disease control of Clivia
Clivia is native to the tropical regions of southern Africa, growing beneath trees, so it fears heat and cannot tolerate cold; it likes a semi-shaded and humid environment and fears strong direct sunlight. Its best growing temperature is between 18-28°C; below 10°C or above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes a well-ventilated environment and prefers deep, fertile, loose soil; it is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, slightly acidic organic soil. Clivia is a famous greenhouse flower and is suitable for indoor cultivation. During its growth, Clivia is often threatened by pests and diseases. Zuihua Network has compiled for you the common pests and diseases of Clivia and their solutions.I. Diseases
1. Southern blight
When this disease occurs, water-soaked brown irregular lesions appear on the stem near the roots, the cortex soft-rots, and then white silky mycelium grows and spreads over the soil surface around the root zone, later forming small sclerotia, and finally becoming the color of rapeseed and enlarging until the whole base rots and dies. It causes the head of the Clivia to rot off.
Control methods: (1) Before potting, the potting soil must be disinfected. A relatively simple method is to decompose the soil, that is, mix leaf-mold soil with an appropriate amount of water, cover it well with plastic film and let it ferment; the heat produced by fermentation is enough to kill the pathogens; (2) Always observe the soil surface; when white fungal threads are found, pick them out and burn them, and sprinkle some lime powder around the diseased spot to disinfect it; (3) In the early stage of the disease, drench the plant base and the soil around the base with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once a week, 2-3 times in total.
2. Soft rot
The pathogen often invades through wounds. When the disease occurs, pale yellow water-soaked spots appear on the leaves, then expand into irregular lesions, making the leaves look as if they have been scalded with boiling water, with bacterial fluid flowing out from the lesion wounds.
Control methods: 1. Soil disinfection: To prevent soft rot in advance, disinfect the potting soil before transplanting. The soil can be disinfected with 0.5%-1% formalin, about 10 g per square meter; it can also be disinfected with chloropicrin at 60-120 g/sq m or 70% quintozene at 8-10 g/sq m. Used flower pots and contaminated tools should also be cleaned and disinfected with 1% copper sulfate before use. Do not water too much at ordinary times, so as to avoid overly wet potting soil. 2. Agricultural control: Promptly prune or pull out diseased plants and destroy them; do not bruise the plants when planting and transplanting, so as to avoid wound infection; during the disease period, pay attention to drainage and keep the root collar dry, so as to avoid rot of the roots, root collar and bulbs. 3. Chemical control: After the disease occurs, spray with agricultural streptomycin at 1000 times dilution or Bordeaux mixture at 150-200 times dilution about once a month to control the spread of the disease. At the same time, when insect pests are found, control them promptly to reduce wounds and lower the incidence of the disease.
3. Anthracnose
This disease mostly occurs in rainy, humid and muggy seasons, and the affected parts are mostly the leaf tips and leaf edges. In the early stage, moist brownish small spots appear on the leaves, then expand into oval and wave-shaped main lesions, surrounded by yellow
Control methods: (1) Give the pot a well-ventilated environment with good light. The potting soil should only be kept moist; do not water too much or too often. Increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and control nitrogen fertilizer. (2) When signs of the disease are found, immediately spray a solution made with 50% wettable carbendazim powder plus 800 times water, or a solution of 60% anthracnose-formaldehyde (Fumei) plus 1000 times water, about once every 6 days, and 3-5 sprays will show results.
In short, the integrated control of these diseases is to regularly spray carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, plant streptomycin, etc. Prevention comes first.
4. Leaf spot
Disease pattern: Clivia leaf spot generally occurs in spring and autumn, but can occur in all four seasons in a greenhouse. Overcrowding, poor ventilation and excessive humidity all favor the disease. Using fresh soil that has not yet decomposed, using fertilizer that has not fermented well, not changing the potting soil for a long time, an imbalance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer applied, and excessive fertilizer amounts can also cause this disease. Under high temperature and dry conditions, or when scale insect damage is severe, the pathogen easily invades through stomata or wounds, leading to disease. The affected parts are generally at the leaf base or edges. In the early stage of the disease, small yellow spots appear on the leaf surface, then the color of the spots gradually deepens and the spotted area continuously expands, the edges become raised, with milky-yellow spherical bacterial gelatinous fluid flowing out, and then sink in, finally producing cankers and even rotting away the whole plant.
Control methods: (1) Promptly remove diseased tissue and burn it in a centralized manner. (2) Change the potting soil in time. (3) Avoid spraying and watering the plant. (4) Start spraying from the early stage of the disease to prevent the disease from expanding and spreading. Commonly used agents include 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 300-600 times dilution (50% at 1000 times, 40% suspension concentrate at 600-800 times), 50% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times, 70% maneb at 500 times, 80% mancozeb at 500 times, etc. Note that the agents should be used alternately to prevent the pathogen from developing resistance. (5) Manual pest removal. The operation should be careful and meticulous, minimizing wounds as much as possible and preventing pathogens from invading the internal tissues of Clivia.
Preventive measures: Do not use fresh soil or fresh fertilizer, do not use too high a fertilizer concentration, and solid fertilizer must not directly touch the roots.
5. High-fever disease
Disease pattern: This disease is likely to occur in humid and hot seasons. The main cause is pathogens brought in by spraying water on the leaves or root rot and rot of the stem tip caused by long-term overly wet potting soil. Generally, in the early stage of the disease, the root tip growth point first rots, then gradually spreads, causing the stem tip and central leaves to rot. After Clivia develops root rot, the plant's normal physiological functions and absorption functions are disrupted, causing the temperature inside the Clivia to rise, hence the name high-fever disease. This condition develops extremely quickly; generally within 1-2 days, and in severe cases even within a few hours, the plant temperature can rise from 25°C to 35-40°C, and half a day is enough to make the stem tip of the Clivia rot.
Control methods: If, when testing the temperature of the Clivia's basal tissue and leaf base with the back of the hand, you find it is higher than or equal to human body temperature, it indicates that the Clivia has high-fever disease. At this time, rescue measures should be taken by wiping the central leaves with cool water. At the same time, you can also take the Clivia out of the pot, rinse the roots with cool water, then place it in a cool, ventilated place and continue to observe whether the temperature at the plant base rises. If it continues to rise, surgical measures must be taken. The method is to use a sterilized sharp knife to make a small vertical slit on both sides of the bulb of the central leaves, then rinse the central leaves one by one with cool water for 10 minutes, and afterwards still place it in a cool, ventilated place for observation. If the temperature does not continue to rise, it means the problem has been solved, and as long as management is strengthened, the condition will not continue to spread. If the temperature is still constantly rising, check the central leaves to see whether the core has already rotted. If the core has not rotted, you can also repot it, soak the Clivia in cool water for two hours and then check again. If the temperature continues to rise and the central leaves of the Clivia already show signs of rotting, then a major operation must be carried out: cut off all the leaves from the pseudobulb, which can still preserve the stem and roots, and cultivate it anew so that new shoots sprout from the stem, preserving the variety; there is no other better solution.
6. Red spot disease
Disease pattern: In the early stage of the disease, small round dots that are white, pinkish-yellow or apricot-red appear on the underside of the leaves. If measures are not taken in time after this disease is found, over time the spots grow larger and larger, the color gradually deepens, and the spotted areas sink in and rot; in mild cases the spots merge into one patch, rotting away the leaf and causing "head rot". The cause is mostly viral infection. As for the source of the virus, most cases come from using fertilizer that has not been fully fermented and decomposed; the fresh fertilizer rots in the soil, causing more microorganisms and viruses to multiply in large numbers at the stem and root base of the Clivia. These microorganisms and viruses stick to the Clivia root system and absorb nutrients, disrupting the plant's physiological functions and causing red spots to appear on the leaves.
Control methods: Clivia red spot disease mostly comes from the roots. If red spot disease is found, immediately repot and change the soil, then wash the roots and stem of the Clivia, rinsing off all microorganisms, viruses and bacteria. A solution made with 65% wettable zineb powder plus 400-500 times water can be used, spraying once every 10 days or half a month, 2-3 times in total. After repotting, it is advisable to water with magnetized water.
7. Southern blight
Disease pattern: The sclerotia can survive for more than 4 years, thereby surviving adverse environmental conditions; the disease is severe in hot and humid seasons. When potting, if the soil is undisinfected garbage soil or vegetable garden soil, the disease is severe. This disease mainly occurs at the stem base of the Clivia near the ground, causing brown soft rot; white silky hyphae cover the affected areas and spread over the soil surface. Later some hyphae tangle into sclerotia; the sclerotia are initially white, then turn yellow, reddish-brown and finally dark brown, about the size of rapeseed. In severe cases the whole plant is affected and is easily pulled up.
Control methods: (1) Improve cultivation management. Soil contaminated by the disease should be taken out of the greenhouse and destroyed. (2) Chemical control. Remove the diseased parts; disinfect the Clivia base with 0.1% mercuric chloride water for 5 minutes, then wash with water, then soak in 50-100 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for several hours, and reinsert into sterile moist sandy soil, where it can re-root; when changing the potting soil, use sterilized fertile soil, and the soil can be mixed with 0.2% of the soil weight of quintozene (70%) before potting.
8. Sooty mold
Disease pattern: In the early stage, purplish-brown spots appear on the affected parts, then gradually spread into dark brown patches 1-2 cm in diameter. At this time, sooty mold-like material appears on the affected parts, closely covering the affected area, and the plant's photosynthesis and respiration are hindered.
Control methods: In the early stage of sooty mold, a solution made with Duofu mixture (5% carbendazim plus 5% thiram) plus 500-800 times water can be used, spraying as a mist once every 10-12 days. If scale insects are found, a solution made with No. 20 petroleum emulsion plus 50-200 times water can also be used to kill the scale insects and prevent the condition from spreading.
9. Gray mold
Disease pattern: The pathogen overwinters in the soil as sclerotia with plant debris. The disease is severe when the greenhouse has poor ventilation and excessively high humidity, and is also likely to be severe when plants are placed too close together; excessive nitrogen fertilizer softens the plant tissues and easily leads to severe disease. The flower cover, flower stalk and leaves can all be affected. When the flower cover is affected, water-soaked small spots 1-2 mm in diameter are produced, which soon enlarge, turn brown and rot. When it occurs on the flower stalk, there is brown soft rot, which often breaks and falls over at the affected part, affecting seed maturity. When the leaves are affected, brown, soft lesions often develop from the edges, with concentric rings and wrinkles on the surface, and can spread to the whole leaf. When humid, gray mold layers grow, later turning earth-yellow.
Control methods: Use new soil free of pathogens, or soil that has been disinfected, as potting soil for cultivation, and avoid placing plants too close together. In winter, the greenhouse should be appropriately heated, which can avoid excessively high humidity. Promptly remove diseased leaves and flowers and dispose of them in a centralized manner. Do not water or fertilize too much; it is best to pour water in from the edge of the pot.
II. Insect pests
(1) Scale insects: The scale insects that harm Clivia mainly include the cottony cushion scale, red round scale, brown soft scale and citrus mealybug. Scale insects live in groups on the leaves and leaf sheaths, piercing and sucking sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and wither and the plant to grow poorly. Apart from the eggs, all stages of the scale insect secrete a waxy substance and induce sooty mold. In addition, they are also vectors that spread plant viruses.
Control methods: Brush off the scale insects with a soft brush, or wipe off the scale insects and sooty mold with a damp gauze, or wash them off with water. During the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray the leaves with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1200 times dilution, once every 7-8 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays; crystalline trichlorfon at 1500 times dilution can also be sprayed.
(2) Soft-bodied snails: The affected leaves are bitten into holes or notches, making the leaves slant and grow crooked, and leaving shiny slime trails where they have crawled. In severe cases the central leaves of seedlings are eaten, resulting in no growth point, missing plants and stunted seedlings. They are common harmful mollusks in solar greenhouses.
Adult soft-bodied snails have exposed bodies, and their muscle tissue is rich in various glands that secrete transparent mucus.
Soft-bodied snails like moisture and darkness; during the day they hide under pots and bricks, and at night they come out to seek food and cause damage and to lay eggs and reproduce; they are hermaphroditic.
Control methods: At night, capture and kill them in dark, damp places near affected Clivia; during the period when soft-bodied snails are causing damage, scatter snail-killing bait granules in the dark places where the snails rest; or use Wanling spray to kill the soft-bodied snails.
(3) Pill bugs (Armadillidium): Adults and larvae lurk in the surface soil of the pot and inside and outside the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, feeding on the young tender new roots of Clivia or biting off the fleshy roots, and gnawing on the tender leaves and buds of the aboveground parts, forming local cankers, causing irregular notches, making the leaves yellow and withered, damaging growth, causing missing plants and stunted seedlings and affecting the ornamental effect. They are one of the main harmful arthropods in solar greenhouses. They like moisture and cannot tolerate drought. They have a "death-feigning" behavior: when bumped by an external object, the body curls up into a ball. They remain motionless, and can resume activity under strong direct light or after the external touch is removed. They have the habit of hiding by day and causing damage at night, and are often seen under the bottom of pots.
Control methods: Taking advantage of the pill bug's intolerance of drought, preference for moisture and fear of light, clear away surplus bricks, tiles and broken pots in the Clivia solar greenhouse, pull out weeds that can provide hiding places, and scatter lime around the pots. For severely affected plants, spray 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution or 20% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-2000 times dilution.
(4) Earthworms: Although earthworms are beneficial insects for field crops, they are pests for Clivia cultivation. Earthworms burrow around in the flower pot, turning what was very good small clumpy leaf-mold soil into fine soil in a short time and causing soil compaction. In addition, earthworms also damage the root system, causing damage to young roots and root hairs, affecting the absorption of nutrients and hindering growth.
Control methods: Spray dichlorvos at 1500-2000 times dilution, or drench with Wanling, which can kill the earthworms in the pot. In short, for large-scale cultivation nowadays, prevention comes first, using abamectin 1500 times liquid sprayed twice every 2 months (7 days apart).
We believe that after mastering these methods for controlling Clivia pests and diseases, everyone will certainly be able to grow Clivia that is in good condition.