How can physiological diseases be avoided when growing Anthurium indoors?

Wild Anthurium usually grows as an epiphyte on trees or attached to rocks or the ground. Its roots absorb nutrients not only from tree bark and stones but also moisture from the humid air, so Anthurium prefers a warm environment with high air humidity and good drainage. For potted Anthurium, choose a well-draining substrate. At home, people generally use peat moss and perlite mixed at a 1:1 ratio, or peat moss and sand mixed at a 2:1 ratio, or coconut husk and perlite mixed at a 2:1 ratio. The pH value is best kept between 5.5 and 6.5. The prepared substrate must be disinfected. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C; the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, and the minimum temperature is 14°C. Below 10°C, there is a risk of cold damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 20%-80% and should not be lower than 50%. Indoor potted plants should be placed in a bright spot with some scattered light. Never place Anthurium in direct strong sunlight, otherwise severe leaf scorch will occur. According to its habits, the following growing measures should be taken:

(1) Control the room temperature well. Since Anthurium is a semi-shade plant, its suitable growth temperature is between 14-35°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, cold damage occurs; when the temperature is above 35°C, the plant will also be harmed. In this case, water should be sprayed on the plant and its surroundings in time. To a certain extent, when the humidity is also high under high temperature conditions, damage is less likely to occur. In summer, measures such as sprinkling water on the ground should be taken to lower the room temperature to within 35°C. In winter, if the indoor temperature is below 12°C, methods such as placing a plastic bag over the plant or making an insulated box can be used to raise the temperature around the Anthurium.

(2) Maintain relatively high air humidity. This is the key to caring for indoor potted Anthurium. Every possible method must be used to increase the air humidity of the environment where the Anthurium is placed. Generally, placing a few cups of water around the Anthurium, spraying the leaf surface (note: never spray the leaf surface in the evening; make sure there are no water droplets on the Anthurium leaves at night), and sprinkling water on the ground can be used.

(3) Keep the leaf surface clean regularly.

(4) Sufficient fertilizer and water supply. In spring and autumn, generally apply fertilizer water once every 3 days. If the temperature is high, depending on whether the substrate in the pot is dry or wet, apply fertilizer water once every 2-3 days; in summer, apply fertilizer water once every 2 days, and if the temperature is high, add one more watering; in winter, generally apply fertilizer water once every 5-7 days. For liquid fertilizer, a complete fertilizer with nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium at 1:1:1 can be used, and the concentration of potassium fertilizer should not exceed 250 ppm. The principle of fertilizing Anthurium is to err on the side of dilution rather than strength, and to feed small amounts frequently, otherwise it is easy to damage the roots, affect plant growth, and directly cause plant death. Anthurium likes moisture (high relative humidity), but the substrate should be on the dry side. Therefore, watering is best done together with liquid fertilizer application. Usually, spray water on the leaves and surroundings more often to increase the relative humidity of the growing environment.

(5) Anthurium generally has strong resistance to pests and diseases, but care should be taken to avoid damage from spider mites, nematodes, cabbage caterpillars, whiteflies, thrips, snails, slugs, termites, moth larvae, aphids, mice, and so on. Common diseases include root rot, anthracnose, and blight. The key to disease control is prevention. About once a month, use a small spray bottle to spray a fungicide such as mancozeb, "Junduqing", or carbendazim once to prevent them. Anthurium is very sensitive to insecticides, so the concentration must be correct when used, and the concentration is usually lower than that used for other flowers. Pay special attention that copper-containing pesticides as well as dimethoate, methamidophos, dichlorvos, malathion, parathion, etc. will cause toxicity to Anthurium.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and insulation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus fern, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, and so on. By the end of February, species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, and so on; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by outdoor cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches from varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne, edgeworthia (southern regions), pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood, oil hemp stalk, and so on. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can continue to be cut and stored for cuttings by the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochichinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, jasmine, Chloranthus, Buddha's hand, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, and so on.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old sturdy black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Nishiki pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate fine varieties such as "Suxin", "Xinkou", and "Huti". Using bagging and inflation for moisture retention can achieve a relatively high survival rate. Use sturdy branches of the rose variety "Elizabeth" as rootstock and scion, and cleft graft or split graft excellent rose scions. Taking measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Chaenomeles, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, and so on.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Liriope, variegated Liriope, Reineckea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra, Hosta, purple hosta, Ornithogalum, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, spider plant, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, and so on. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered Spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, and so on.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina, holly, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked. After treatment, they are sand-stored to promote germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seed mildew has appeared. If mildew occurs, clean them in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil is not frozen and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula, and so on.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among them, deciduous types include hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer, Wisteria, crape myrtle, Chimonanthus, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, and so on; evergreen tree species such as Michelia, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be planted as late as the end of February to early March; osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc. should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased. Therefore, continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. Greenhouses or plastic tunnels with heating facilities should continue to be heated, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, they can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation time can be extended during the period of the highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them inside a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers grown at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum, Dieffenbachia, etc., on particularly cold days, you can put plastic bags over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to the relatively low temperature, for most potted flowers it is enough to keep the pot soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the pot soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves lose green color, and flower buds stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, camellia, tea plum, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, camellia, tea plum, Belgian azalea, Calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits, so that the leaves can be green, the flower buds can expand rapidly, and the fruits can be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forced blooming, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium grown in greenhouses or tunnels that have been purchased and brought home, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrivel and dry. Potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., must have their pot soil kept moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers need little water in February, inspections should be strengthened. Especially when the temperature continues to rise for several consecutive days, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be supplemented in time. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, water should also be appropriately sprayed on the leaves around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond sludge, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant roots, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, tea plum, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Neoregelia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants, and tree stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for plum blossoms, Chimonanthus, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. planted in the ground or in pots after flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For flowering branches, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia, Ficus, Acer triflorum, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus, Adina, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus, and Juniperus rigida, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. In late February, flower species that can be repotted include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochichinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera, rubber tree, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium goeringii, cycad, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, Kalanchoe, Amaryllis, Asparagus fern, spider plant, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, camellia, tea plum, Chaenomeles, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, bitter orange, kumquat, Buddha's hand, and so on.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose, at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases can form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc. After about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun. After fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be spread in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, where it is both convenient and hygienic and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, ditches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    In February, plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus, Platycladus orientalis, true cypress, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, Adina, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles, crape myrtle, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer triflorum, and so on.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing losses that should not occur.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, and so on. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus, banana, clustered bamboo, and so on. Regardless of the light, dryness, or wetness in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be suited to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many. A small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, so that greening and beautification effects can be achieved early, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, globe amaranth, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, and so on. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: Ophiopogon, Liriope, Reineckea, Hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus, Saxifraga, and so on.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many types of flowers suitable for pot culture in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, camellia, poinsettia, Chimonanthus, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea fragrans (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, Codiaeum, Syngonium, Syngonium, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, and so on. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina, cycad, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus fragrans, cacti, Asparagus fern, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochichinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, tea plum, Rhododendron, Ficus, and so on.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: crape myrtle, redbud, Chimonanthus, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage and germination promotion include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina, holly, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, and so on. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow, Mirabilis, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Portulacaria afra, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Sabina chinensis, Daphne, firethorn, and so on. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock for side grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, Nishiki pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus as rootstock, and when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from fine Chimonanthus varieties for cleft grafting and bag them for moisture retention, achieving a relatively high survival rate; using three-edged arrow as rootstock to graft and propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: camellia, tea plum, plum blossom, Chimonanthus, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, and so on.

    5. Division. In March, flower species that can be propagated by division include: orchids, Dicentra, Aspidistra, Asparagus fern, cycad, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles, Sansevieria, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered Canna, Alpinia, dahlia, Strelitzia, and so on.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for Chimonanthus, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., transplanting is all right even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and complete soil ball should be carried. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be more than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc. Multi-element compound fertilizer can also be used, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial for flowering the next year. For camellia, tea plum, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them. This can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year. For some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture in time after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, and so on.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated Liriope, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes, Iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, red-flowered oxalis, and so on. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, Pyracantha, five-needle pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer triflorum, oak, Fraxinus, etc. placed outdoors, repot them before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, cycad, poinsettia, tea plum, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves sometimes move south, from early to mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and insulation work. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera, Syngonium, rubber tree, Araucaria, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, insulation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, cycad, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, Codiaeum, Asparagus fern, and begonias, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer triflorum, Podocarpus, true cypress, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus, oak, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., heavy renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant types. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like forms, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as cycad and cacti (Opuntia, Cleistocactus, Crassula, Echinocactus, large columnar cactus, Astropytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, leaf cactus, Kalanchoe, and so on. There are also Chimonanthus, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. Another category is flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony pot culture (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Amaryllis, Sageretia, oak, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer triflorum, Adina, black pine, Juniperus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, sun plant, and so on. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, five-needle pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony pot culture, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus fern or Clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting substrate, and propagate gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles, Nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc. by cuttings indoors at a brighter spot by the windowsill, but the pot mouth should be covered well with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, Nishiki pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot culture are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the pot soil should be kept from freezing. If the pot soil freezes, it is easy to cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building a local shelter or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as Chimonanthus, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Acer triflorum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia, Adina, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the pot soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and spray water appropriately. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off pest-infected branches and leaves, and destroy them. For dry and withered cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) supported on top. Use the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera, Philodendron, Syngonium, Ardisia crenata, Nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and stock up enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of growing flowers on the balcony throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional effects of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. From south to north in April, flower tasks include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, amaranth, moss rose, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, cardinal climber, flowering tobacco, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, Spanish needles, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, fairy primrose, nasturtium, summer cypress, maple-leaved mallow, Mexican fire plant, basil, asparagus, cosmos, ladybell, sensitive plant, and so on. Magnolia family trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand storage include: white magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, Baohua magnolia, southern magnolia, Tianmu magnolia, Wudang magnolia, houpo magnolia, Oyama magnolia, mountain magnolia, Michelia, manglietia, red-flowered manglietia, Ruyuan manglietia, big-fruited manglietia, yellow magnolia, banana shrub, many-flowered Michelia, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white orchid, golden-leaved Michelia, Emei Michelia, Chinese tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, etc.; other ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown in April

include: Japanese fir, golden pine, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan oak, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, ornamental pauhuang, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, white spiraea, Chinese wolfberry, nandina, coralberry, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvest in April include: African daisy, asparagus fern, primrose, winter cherry, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among them, Japanese fatsia fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft can be picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedbeds; the seeds can also first be stored in sand until they crack and show white, and then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, the grass cover should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up at the same time; for cultivating nipplefruit, the picked golden-yellow fruits can be peeled, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds will sprout and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be grown in pots for fruit display, or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, palm grass, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, arrowroot, aloe, peperomia, monstera, bird's nest fern, etc. Flowering plants that can be divided in April include: cymbidium, five-colored plum, hibiscus, canna, zinnia, calla lily, red lotus, dragon's blood, ginger lily, bletilla, daylily, lotus, etc. Ornamental plants that can be divided in April include: large-flowered chrysanthemum, chrysanthemum, beautyberry, lotus, blue-eyed grass, spider lily, clivia, dahlia, aster, aster, chrysanthemum, etc. In addition, arrowroot and taro can also be divided at this time?

    4. Cuttage

For most easily rooted flowering trees and shrubs, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttings in April. The main types include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, Chinese tulip tree, snowflake, paper bush, spectabilis, etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively pruned during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor, southern magnolia, banana shrub, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration of the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant them before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; usually the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant, so that under the condition of not damaging the soil ball, the transplanted plant can be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability, whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners, and whose normal growth is not seriously affected, such as podocarpus, green cypress, serissa, water birch, true cypress, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flower cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paper bush, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other types suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nan, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, galor wood, golden bullet, spectabilis, Fujian tea, papaya, elaeagnus, Chinese holly, golden larch, tiger thorn, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in time to continuously coil, pull, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: first, remove buds in time. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones. When needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be identified from new shoots, all female cones growing at the top of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots should be removed in time to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, so that the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter cherry, Christmas cactus, Chinese cymbidium, large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, they need topdressing with nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jianlan orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, topdressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some water, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is not enough time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and later normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems should be removed in time, plant shape should be adjusted, and water and fertilizer management should be strengthened; for flower types prone to diseases, lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed in time to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, spectabilis, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, they must be sprayed with water (mist) 2 to 3 times a day, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China, and after each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There are many continuous spring rain days. After the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking that summer will soon arrive. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. Flower care in May, from south to north, mainly includes the following items:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown immediately after harvest in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Japanese fatsia, broad-leaved mahonia, loquat, etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after seedlings emerge, remove the grass cover in several batches, and set up shade in time to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Osmanthus can be picked at the end of May when the fruits are ripe and blue-black. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand, where it can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the tip of the radicle can they be sown in the ground. During storage, attention should be paid to preventing rodents from stealing them, and keeping the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep; generally no more than 2 to 3 cm is appropriate.

    2. Cuttage

Flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, white jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, jewel leaf plant, Oyama magnolia, purple magnolia, spectabilis, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back eupatorium, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate white orchid and banana shrub; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy rhododendron cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Western rhododendron; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate fine varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; graft fine varieties of wintersweet by softwood grafting, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstocks to graft and propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, banana shrub, red maple, etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most types must be potted and planted in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, summer cypress, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when white magnolia has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually need more water. In addition to combining root watering and leaf spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, azalea, gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage types include: sago palm, bird's nest fern, monstera, palm grass, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, arrowhead plant, arrowroot, bromeliads, Brazil wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, fingered citron, lemon, nandina, winter cherry, coralberry, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For white orchid that has just been brought out of the house, when pruning back, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface is prone to dehydration, drying, and extending downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering, pruning should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that buds located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise the wound will dry and shrivel, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, the terminal bud should be removed in time to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: monstera, palm grass, arrowroot, bird's nest fern, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink lady leaf, fan palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, water birch, oak, serissa, black pine, soft pine, etc. require full light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red nan, green cypress, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowering, remove the residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented with phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth and at the same time lay a foundation for them to produce flower buds again; for mainly foliage types such as rubber tree, monstera, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern, cast-iron plant, ferns, etc., apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-center Brazil wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead plant, pink lady leaf, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, Rosa multiflora, and roses, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot, and for leaf-eating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed in time to kill them; for leaf-eating pests commonly appearing on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, fingered citron, lemon, rue, etc.??? citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaved gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, serissa, green cypress, water birch, galor wood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and core of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Jianghuai Basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this area, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers and most bonsai that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer, maintenance should be especially careful, so as not to cause root rot due to excessive rain, or cause crazy growth due to insufficient light, disrupting styling or affecting normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. Flower care in June, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, sago cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the fruiting mother tree turns from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean wet sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and at this time sow in furrows; the covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seed cotyledons emerge from the soil, remove the cover grass in 2 to 3 batches, and set up shade in time.

    2. Cuttage

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in flowering tree and shrub branches is highly active, making it the best time for cuttage propagation of flowering trees and shrubs. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttage in summer. One category consists of types that are not easy to root or root slowly by hardwood cuttage, such as osmanthus, camellia, banana shrub, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, spectabilis, snowball, viburnum, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category consists of types that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, fingered citron, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-back eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazil iron, Ardisia crenata, paper bush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, snowball, peach-leaf aucuba, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, snowflake, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ground ivy, nasturtium, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttage of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the tender branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end. The lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then inserted into the seedbed after brief drying; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft fine varieties of wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, banana shrub, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate fine Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock to bud graft and propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf cherry, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock to graft camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy rhododendrons as rootstock to cleft graft or side graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball, viburnum, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edge dwarf lilyturf, etc.

II. Collecting Seeds and Transplanting

    1. Collecting Seeds

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after harvest), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in wet sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening; when they germinate, choose a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea balsam, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, summer cypress, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

In summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, broad-leaved mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know," but after transplanting, water spraying and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, potted flower watering should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and generally watering once a day is enough; second, watering temperature, the irrigation water and pot soil temperature should be kept basically consistent, because if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying. In weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red woodsorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is enough; deeply dormant types such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering in summer as underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil. Watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and keeping the pot soil from becoming excessively dry is enough.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, so as to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types, such as monstera, spider plant, arrowhead plant, arrowroot, sword fern, bird's nest fern, sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back eupatorium, palm grass, Norfolk Island pine, Brazil iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water can be applied once every half month. For types currently blooming, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower types such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Mesembryanthemum, Stapelia, sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing types such as Chinese elm, plum yew, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true cypress, green cypress, water birch, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and can promote more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, residual flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and branches that have bloomed should be appropriately cut back to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowering, and better flowers in the current or following year, terminal buds should be removed from excessively vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of main and side shoots and promote side bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm grass, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead plant, pink lady leaf, bird's nest fern, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower types must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, sago cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, plum yew, Chinese holly, wintergreen, water birch, oak, black pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, five-needle pine, etc. can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, green cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poisoned sticks should be used in time to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, Rosa multiflora, roses, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Tender leaves of bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, fingered citron, etc. are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant types that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, elaeagnus, Huashan pine, green cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, spectabilis, Midget crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water birch, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with slow wiring and gentle tying, and one must never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 Grain in Ear; June 21 Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the Jianghuai region ends its plum rain weather. July 16 begins the dog days, and August 15 ends the dog days. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in the areas south of the Jianghuai region it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc. can also be picked. After washing off the fruit flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in wet sand until they crack, then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: purslane, begonia, coleus, clearweed, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch chrysanthemum, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Chinese knotweed, air plant, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela, hydrangea, snowball, snowflake, daphne, gardenia, paper bush, Oyama magnolia, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, banana shrub, coral tree, rubber tree, viburnum, Tianmu viburnum, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, water cuttage can also be used to propagate some flowering trees and shrubs. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, etc. To use water cuttage to propagate flowering trees and shrubs, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforate it, and use it as fixing material for cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttage clean, and a few pieces of charcoal can be added for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach or hairy peach seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc.; use cuttings of wild rose, pink clustered rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, roses, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate white orchid, banana shrub, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft and propagate fine varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy rhododendrons as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, or spectabilis, crabapple as rootstock for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of crabapple; use maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, viburnum, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant types that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea, Zephyranthes, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia, etc. II. Collecting Seeds and Transplanting
    1. Collecting Seeds
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Spanish needles, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Mesembryanthemum, etc.
    Flower and tree seeds that can be harvested in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, and others.
    2. Transplanting, planting out, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers for display during the National Day holiday. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings grown from seed or from cuttings. After 3 months of careful cultivation, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday, to be used for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and others.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting certain flowering shrubs with root balls is also feasible, such as mahonia, hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be transferred to normal management. Do not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, daphne, Christmas cactus, portulacaria, aloe, and others, basically stop growth activity and have a very low metabolic level because the temperature is too high. Watering should be reduced, the pot soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter deep dormancy at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, lycoris, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, show withered aboveground stems and leaves in July, and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die. They spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should simply be kept from becoming too dry.
For flower species with vigorous growth, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, calatheas, Syngonium, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Excoecaria bicolor, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, and others, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be appropriately sprayed with water, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be carried out, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves with water. After the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to shed green leaves, or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is the flower bud differentiation period, appropriate water restriction should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot has 2 to 3 leaves, retain only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. It is advisable to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly. After the pot soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and jasmine; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; the third is species grown in winter for flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and azalea; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree. As for fertilizer types, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional assurance for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers that should receive strengthened fertilization in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, goldfussia, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower, snapdragon, and others. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, begonias, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, and cotton rose. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, calatheas, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, and others.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedums, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, and Stapelia, where fertilization must be stopped to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be top-pinched and bud-pinched in summer must be species with vigorous growth, strong sprouting ability, and tolerance to pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Podocarpus macrophyllus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Murraya paniculata, and others. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form graceful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with the fingers, such as juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis.
For potted flower species that continue blooming over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed promptly, and the branches that have bloomed should be appropriately shortened to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For azalea, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, and others, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from direct scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Excoecaria bicolor, pothos, peperomia, cast-iron plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, calatheas, and Reineckea carnea.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and others. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, and five-needle pine, however, it is necessary to provide appropriate shade.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry this month, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the pot soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leaf leatheriness, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, relatively tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia, mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus mutabilis, Chinese fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, and aucuba, while it is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, and others. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing leaf tips to wither and margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are susceptible to anthracnose infection, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or trunks of plum, peach, crabapple, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, flowering almond, and others, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Control methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of toxic sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, and others, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller moth that damages boxleaf euonymus, Chinese box, and. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to damage the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, round kumquat, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that damages privet, small-leaf privet, water wax, and white wax tree, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supesha for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging large-leaf euonymus, London plane, pittosporum, Camellia japonica, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, and others. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of the nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supesha can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches that are damaged are prone to infection by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, false arborvitae, Taiwan juniper, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, and others.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually. Do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to break the plant's branches or trunk and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: Minor Heat on July 7; Major Heat on July 23.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second hottest dry-hot period of the year after July. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among woody flowers, the main ones are: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon tree, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina, hibiscus, lantana, coral tree, Dracaena fragrans, croton, Dracaena fragrans, palm bamboo, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera, plumeria, Osmanthus fragrans, oleander, Washington palm, windmill palm, bottle palm, mahonia, Japanese aralia, aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and others. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia, and others. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, and Aglaonema commutatum.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: peony, flowering almond, red camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and others. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks, rubbed and washed to remove the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-stored until germination, and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, fan columbine, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and others. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and others.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a 2:1 ratio for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, mahonia, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, aucuba, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, fragrant agarwood, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, and others. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, and others as the substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, spirea, bridal wreath spirea, gardenia, and others. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use fringetree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and Michelia alba as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry, flowering almond, and others; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry blossom; use wild rose and seven-sisters rose as rootstocks and bud-graft improved varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, crabapple, and Hubei crabapple seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft improved varieties of Camellia japonica; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or approach-graft improved varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, banksia rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and others.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, small angel, multi-head green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, cast-iron plant, umbrella plant, buttonbush, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Aglaonema, Dutch aster, fine-leaf sweet flag, Boston fern, Aglaonema commutatum, calatheas, Syngonium, Haworthia, and others. In addition, lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and others can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large root balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering, and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, golden-heart (edge) boxwood, hypericum, mahonia, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Chinese juniper ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, aucuba, French holly, and others. In courtyards, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon, and others, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, courtyard hedges such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as photinia, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, and holly, must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, and lantana, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, and marigold, top-pinching and bud-pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure there is no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edge (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf cherry plum, croton, red mulberry, aucuba, Alpinia zerumbet, and others, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, flower pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and lantana, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, and others in the middle of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed as foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, photinia, Camellia japonica, and others, promptly spray 40% Supesha at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger moths, aphids, and others occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: peony, flowering almond, red camellia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, summer wintersweet, and others. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, and others.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets that fall on the leaves do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera and the center of the clivia leaf rosette also must not be drenched, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the pot soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, watering and spraying should be controlled, only maintaining the pot soil slightly moist. By spraying water around the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Boston fern, pandanus, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon tree, money tree, Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Excoecaria bicolor, Schefflera, aucuba, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, Japanese aralia, and others, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flower pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, and lantana, as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, coral ardisia, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the middle of flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and azalea, foliar topdressing with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves with water once after fertilizing, to wash away any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedums, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, and cactus balls, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, small angel, rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, calatheas, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Excoecaria bicolor, peperomia, bromeliads, buttonbush, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo fern, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, blood leaf orchid, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, and purple hosta, continue to provide shade frames, pull up the shade net at 9 a.m., and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus. For Chinese rose, flower pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and others, shorten after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flower pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and others. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, calatheas, areca palm, queen palm, little angel, Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, pothos, palm bamboo, Pachira aquatica, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, goldfussia, Dracaena fragrans, and Japanese aralia.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots, cover with plastic film, and keep moist for cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash and fine sand mixed at a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cuttings include: Schefflera, aucuba, begonia, gardenia, goldfussia, coral flower, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema commutatum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, banana shrub, and others. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, aucuba, fig, Cordyline, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema, fuchsia, and others.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be done carefully. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer slightly acidic soil. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, with 10 cm of wet sand inside, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, little angel, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, and others. Usually spraying instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia, and others, they can be moved indoors with air conditioning, spraying instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, and sago palm, water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or spread multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, and trident maple, cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, and firethorn, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dracaena fragrans, croton, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera, palm bamboo, plumeria, bottle palm, mahonia, Japanese aralia, aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruces, Schefflera, Fukugi, Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Ludou tree, and nandina. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, and others.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red camellia, banana shrub, magnolia, manglietia, horse chestnut, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, and others. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing downward when sown, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, then covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and others. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic tunnel.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, aucuba, fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, gold-veined shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and others. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood, purple magnolia, hypericum, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snowspray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, peony, and others. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft improved varieties of peony; use peach, apricot, and other seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and others; use green maple seedlings as rootstocks and bag-moisture cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, and others; use Michelia alba seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft improved varieties of Michelia alba and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft kumquat and others; use fringetree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft improved varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowspray, and spirea.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia, snake plant, little angel, multi-head green king, Aglaonema commutatum, Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, cast-iron plant, and big-leaf lilyturf. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, lycoris, and Mediterranean bluebell can also have their small bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in courtyards. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided good root balls are kept. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Chinese juniper, osmanthus, Camellia japonica, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood, hypericum, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, and aucuba. Transplanting requires heavy pruning and strengthened watering, spraying, and shading management to ensure success. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and others.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with vigorous growth and strong sprouting ability, and this is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, and golden-edge oriental arborvitae. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, and Forsythia. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be top-pinched and bud-pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, and French marigold. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and pinching should stop after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming over a long period, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flower pomegranate, lantana, and bougainvillea, promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stalks, and appropriately shorten the branches that have bloomed, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing good watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet, croton, aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf cherry plum, red-leaf plum, and red-leaf peach, in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming or are viewed for flowers and fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin, flower pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth damaging crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle damaging crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert toxic sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the magnolia family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, Michelia alba, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia. In addition, there are horse chestnut, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, and shining wintersweet. Magnolia family, yew, horse chestnut, crabapple, and others must be stored in wet sand after seed treatment until early spring of the following year, and then sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, and others. After collection, thresh promptly, dry-store until spring of the following year, and then sow.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is strong, the temperature is high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon; in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after autumn, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil around the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, and fertilizer management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or a peak flowering period in autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc.; fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros armata, Callicarpa species, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and colorful foliage plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, etc., apply fertilizer types with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra, Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., which are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower bud enlargement, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., apply low-concentration fertilizer types with balanced nutrition; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for budding and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is high and the sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', orchids, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Mini Pixie', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris cretica 'Albolineata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia amoena, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, Dracaena sanderiana, etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula arborescens, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of disbudding and removing buds; for Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum quihoui, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Fraxinus hupehensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, peach, Prunus persica 'Duplex', etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowers and trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, fruiting pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus hupehensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, Hymenocallis species, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, a large-diameter flower pot can continue to be used as a container, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum, etc. Also indoors, Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc., can be propagated by water cuttings.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium podophyllum 'Mini Pixie', Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae species, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and usually misting replaces watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the soaking-pot method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and note that the water temperature should not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to different species, appropriately apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an off-odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered flowers and stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500-fold solution; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Sabina chinensis, and Juniperus rigida bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, peach, etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Zamia furfuracea, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena concinna, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. Note: In North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Ligustrum lucidum, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium ascendens, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the seeds of the other species can be cleaned and stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene chalcedonica, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris species, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowers and trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Odontonema strictum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osakazuki') and Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho' with moisture retention; use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; use one-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' with moisture retention; use one-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia × soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use Hylocereus undatus as rootstock to graft various cactus ball types; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Augustus', Viburnum macrocephalum 'Sterile', Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Ligustrum lucidum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Duplex', peach, Rosa hybrida, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, shorten-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia × fraseri, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For continuously flowering ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off withered flowers and stems, and moderately shorten-prune the branches that have already flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flowering and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus fragrans that have already flowered, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and southern Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Diospyros armata, etc., that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria fortunei, Triadica sebifera, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia cyathophora, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes and store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting again in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., increase the amount of watering. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn turns cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum, Narcissus poeticus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros armata, etc., in early to mid-October a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Peperomia species, etc., around noon for 2 to 3 hours, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out severe shortening pruning; for binding materials that have been shaped for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or untied and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to wither and die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species intolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried at the end of the month in soil in a sheltered, sunny spot to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetle, leafminer larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus hupehensis, Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus pandurata, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, Oncidium species, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, a wide-mouthed large flower pot can continue to be used as a cutting container, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum, Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Mini Pixie', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should be mainly misted and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros armata, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them pass through winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, which should be given even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days around noon for 3 to 4 hours, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further wiring and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plants. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia × fraseri, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulch must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as Rosa hybrida and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some root cuttings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureomarginata', etc. If managed properly, a complete root system can grow in the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for Begonia maculata, Begonia rex, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula arborescens, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, Vitis vinifera, etc., can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag-graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Prunus mume (the graft union buried in soil for overwintering); use thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis ('Elizabeth' variety) as rootstock stems, use branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior Rosa chinensis varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum 'Sterile', Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Lespedeza bicolor, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Bambusa multiplex, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna indica, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided, planted, and established.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Abutilon species, etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus hwangshanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Triadica sebifera, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia × fraseri, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and establishment. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed establishment and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola × wittrockiana, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Triadica sebifera, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia × soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic greenhouses to force flowering, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc., should be moved into plastic greenhouses to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic greenhouses, or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary misting of the leaves.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the plants, to facilitate the enlargement and growth of flower buds and also make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses, and rooms, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the leaves, so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, increase the amount of watering. For relatively cold-intolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., control the amount of watering to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions caused by too low water temperature and thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Vriesea splendens, etc., continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in ordinary plastic greenhouses, stop applying fertilizer, so as to help them enter normal dormancy and overwinter. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia × soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, Vitis vinifera, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., bury dry cake fertilizer, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, in addition to retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out severe shortening pruning of the current-year branches, and in addition to retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, so as to facilitate the growth of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all irregular branches, weak branches, inner canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately shorten-prune leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, the coarse trunks of large palm trees can be stripped of palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Enkianthus quinqueflorus, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For potted flower species that are not cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, Pink Lady Leaf (Acalypha), Syngonium, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata (Mock Lime), Codiaeum variegatum (Croton), Justicia brandegeeana (Shrimp Plant), Pachystachys lutea (Golden Shrimp Plant), Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian Iron), Red (Green) Gem, Green Giant, Green Emperor, Silver Queen, Plumeria (Frangipani), Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Dendrobium, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Sageretia thea (Chinese Sweet Plum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese cypress (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), and red maple (Acer palmatum), they can be buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil, and under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft straw can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation work should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, be careful never to let plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapple species, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead trunk and split trunk areas for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (which may occur on Citrus aurantium var. daidai, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), orchids, camellias, Clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a wet cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (which may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Citrus aurantium var. daidai, and Chinese roses), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Savin juniper (Juniperus sabina), prostrate juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Euonymus pendulus, Serissa japonica (Snowbush), plum blossom (Prunus mume), winter hazel (Corylopsis), oak (Quercus), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Pearl boxwood, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana).

For bonsai stumps that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when noticeable constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha), and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, stumps that have basically taken form can, in November, be repotted into suitable containers according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, and decorated with fist-sized stones and dotted with moss, ready for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Chaenomeles speciosa can be potted in suitable containers in November, with strengthened water management, and can be used the following spring for display in plazas, parks, and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most of China enters winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month's flower and tree maintenance should emphasize three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and soil turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job of preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Gloxinia, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Clivia, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and African daisy (Gerbera); flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, holly species, firethorn (Pyracantha), palms, privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), small-leaf privet, soapberry (Sapindus), photinia (Photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); redleaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), wintersweet (cuttings with heel), spiraea, and boxwood species. Among these, plum blossom and redleaf plum cuttings should use yellow-heart soil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken from hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), gem plant (Graptopetalum), Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Bryophyllum, Kalanchoe, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Begonia coccinea, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and Cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken from gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine, Thujopsis, Serissa japonica, firethorn, silver bud willow, and trident maple. In addition, branches of trumpet vine (Campsis), lilac (Syringa), and grape can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Superior plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, cleft grafting or cut grafting is performed, then planted in seedbeds at a certain row spacing, with soil mounded up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts in the following spring. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; or use healthy branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts in the following spring, and only after it has completely survived can a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), red wood sorrel (Oxalis corymbosa), Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, and Aglaonema. When cutting off offsets from the base of a large Aechmea fasciata plant, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colored bands on the separated offset are likely to disappear, which should be given special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina (Nandina domestica), Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal (Agave sisalana), Bambusa multiplex, and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens types, Gomphrena types, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), Cyclamen, and Clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After processing, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and can only be sown after the seeds crack and show white the following year; under dry storage conditions they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. Herbaceous flower species that can be field-planted in flower beds in December include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), snapdragon, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and field-planted, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus), redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya (Chaenomeles), Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet vine, linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron), red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palms, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree, rhododendron, and holly. When transplanting, first heavily reduce the leader and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, bring a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, and pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) continue to be placed in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis), Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm (Cycas revoluta).

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures no lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Schefflera, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea, Cyclamen, primrose (Primula), Lantana, kumquat (Fortunella), Citrus aurantium var. daidai, lemon, Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures no lower than 10°C, such as Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium, Peperomia, Calathea, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Fittonia, bromeliads, Pink Lady Leaf (Acalypha), poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad (Zamia), Red (Green) Gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in well-sealed double-layer tunnels they must also be appropriately heated; during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature warms up.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, oak (Quercus), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), red cypress, water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), and Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, they generally will not suffer frost damage when temperatures are no lower than -10°C; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft straw for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, should also be ventilated. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, the warmest time of the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold drafts directly hit the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it can easily cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit ornamental species such as Citrus aurantium var. daidai, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season tangerine (Citrus microcarpa), kumquat, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to facilitate the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vividness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Pink Lady Leaf (Acalypha), Syngonium, Calathea, Croton, and Silver Queen, when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering to ensure their safe overwintering.

    In December, the watering time should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop fertilizing, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most of the greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, redleaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet vine, Rosa banksiae, Hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria, cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), Prunus japonica, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and topiary shapes that were not finished pruning in November; hedges and green walls such as privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum lucidum, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; topiary such as Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, Pittosporum, Forsythia, firethorn, Chinese juniper 'Kaizuka', and Juniperus, and while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not finished pruning in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palms, redleaf plum, photinia, plane tree (Platanus), plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Chinese holly, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya (Chaenomeles), continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grapes, crabapple species, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species prone to scale insects among flowers and trees in greenhouses and tunnels, such as Citrus aurantium var. daidai, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Citrus aurantium var. daidai, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), armored scales, arrowhead scales, mealybugs, and Eriococcus; at this time, spray with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and phytotoxicity is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil preparation next year, use the winter leisure time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and tea seed cake into water vats or pools, add water, and seal for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and branches in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, and pigeon droppings with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the winter leisure time, find an open space or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, mix them thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, and pond mud can be applied before turning the soil; do not make beds for now, and after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce seedling management costs and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Thujopsis, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese cypress (Platycladus orientalis), Savin juniper (Juniperus sabina), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Japanese juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex), Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Serissa japonica, Caragana, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple, winter hazel (Corylopsis), tamarisk (Tamarix), Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, and oak (Quercus).

For bonsai plants that have been shaped and fixed with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already been in place for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding material should be removed and re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, and crape myrtle that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, choose suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or rooms next year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "Sanjiu" period, and most of China enters the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves southward, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year appear. This month's flower maintenance is mainly about doing a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing land, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Gloxinia, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Clivia, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and African daisy (Gerbera). Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palms, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), redleaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, trident maple, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and Jasminum officinale. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea, carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), gem plant, jade leaf (Portulacaria afra), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet vine, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant in seedbeds, cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud grafting is often used to propagate four-season tangerine and kumquat; using dug-up wild rose for bud grafting superior Chinese rose cultivars, with the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese roses; grafting and cutting are carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), Zephyranthes rosea, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, spider plant (Chlorophytum), Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small tulip, Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, gardenia, trident maple, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and Clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species, and Ardisia crenata can be collected, and after processing, stored in sand for germination, and can only be sown after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, and holly species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, the seeds must be poured out, re-rubbed and washed, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish spraying with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Field Planting

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and field-planted in less cold regions include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in colder regions, seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, and used for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders after spring returns and the weather warms.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and field-planted, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya (Chaenomeles), Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet vine, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, Spiraea japonica, trident maple, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum lucidum, except in special cases this month, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, with heavy reduction pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also possible.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple, Rhododendron simsii, crape myrtle, Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, Ilex pernyi, Chinese holly, holly, and oak, heavy reduction pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to the overwintering of potted flowers and bonsai. According to the lowest temperature limit that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, sago palm, Acorus calamus, Bambusa multiplex, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic tunnels with temperatures no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, bottle orchid (Aglaia), calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, Citrus aurantium var. daidai, lemon, Areca palm, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea, and Lantana. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as Croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Peperomia, Coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, Red (Green) Gem, Green Giant, Green Emperor, Silver Queen, Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, South American cycad, desert rose (Adenium obesum), Pink Lady Leaf (Acalypha), poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea, and coral flower (Jatropha multifida). During particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and only stop covering with straw curtains after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it can easily cause frost damage to plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, holly, and Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; at temperatures no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft straw for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation work should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold drafts directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air southward movement; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, repair and patch them in time to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When providing coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or tunnel, to prevent smoke damage, etc. from causing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at around 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 additional hours of light per day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine can also be placed in tunnels at around 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, and freesia already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, the most important thing is first to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature generally consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too large, it can easily cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Pink Lady Leaf (Acalypha), Syngonium, Calathea, and Croton, when the temperature approaches the lowest limit the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, Kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamental species such as firethorn, Citrus aurantium var. daidai, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vivid colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote areas from lacking water, and timely replenish watering for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet vine, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree (Nyssa), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony, Forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), Chinese rose, hydrangea, redleaf plum, Prunus japonica, flowering almond, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Cryptomeria, Taiwan fir (Taiwania), cedar, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliads, Clivia, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), and crab claw orchid (Schlumbergera), continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, stop fertilizing, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and topiary that were not finished pruning in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs that were not finished pruning in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Rosa banksiae, trumpet vine, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, redleaf plum, papaya (Chaenomeles), wintersweet, plum blossom, palms, and grape; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the root system to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), oak, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, water willow (Adina rubella), Elaeagnus, firethorn, Serissa japonica, and Juniperus, continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to lay a good foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm species, papaya (Chaenomeles), loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, and redleaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, they can be sawed off, and the sawn-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up leaves under Chinese roses, roses, grapes, and crape myrtle, gather and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce leaf disease occurrence the following year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scales, arrowhead scales, mealybugs, and Eriococcus appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and photinia, spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress major outbreaks of scale insects in the current year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent it from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on Citrus aurantium var. daidai, Buddha's hand, and kumquat plants in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insects attached to dry branches with a wet cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on Cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray with 50% iprodione (main component is iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and tea seed cake into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, and fallen leaves in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken manure, and pigeon droppings with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet turned over in December, plowing can be done promptly in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, ginkgo, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Savin juniper, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Serissa japonica, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Japanese juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens), five-needle pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow (Adina rubella), Caragana, winter hazel (Corylopsis), Euonymus pendulus, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped with palm rope or metal wire 1 to 2 years ago, if the binding area shows obvious sunken constriction marks, the original binding material should be removed and the plants re-trained and re-directed.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Also prevent plants grown on small rocks from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly to ensure they can safely overwinter.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions about hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas need to be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
pothos, money tree, baby rubber plant, Sun God, arrowroot, Little Angel, Marianne, snake plant, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, etc. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they will precipitate each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the container for hydroponic flowers always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and cannot be too much. Generally, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very good for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either. If there is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed regularly on a balcony with slightly stronger light. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day each week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Office of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, inner plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown directly in soil be converted directly to hydroponics?

Answer: Conversion from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the root system, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do flowers and fish kept together need feeding?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish in flower-fish co-culture are small, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution turbid and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, how should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the plant's water consumption rate. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience talk on household hydroponic flowers

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight and can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible in material selection and can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water and a high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen, spotted dumb cane, monstera, taro, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, wandering jew, coleus, Brazilian wood, miniature palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other such flowering plants have good results with hydroponics. Boston fern, pot marigold, petunia, red-backed eupatorium, and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Container. Any beautiful container that can hold water is acceptable. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, texture, etc. of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, etc. are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of warm spring and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that are already decayed and aged; if fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken not to damage new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes; this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for relatively large plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water cutting method. Select vigorous, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off, and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made 2-3 mm below the stem node, and the cut surface should be smoothed with a sharp knife (wiped and disinfected beforehand with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not precipitate, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changes. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone. Too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics begins, new roots will form. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in combination with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies by flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used only for their intended purpose, avoiding mismatches. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as for pothos and spotted dumb cane.

Prevention and control techniques for pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics gets rid of infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it is not grown in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed at the roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc. If they are not carefully inspected and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach for possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to yellow and fall. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling in large numbers, causing the lower end to become separated and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower stem-separated branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at that time it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow ti plant, arrowhead vine, and others can all use this method.

Complete handbook of household hydroponic flowers

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into static water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple plant; these small plantlets can be removed and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, to use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no bottom holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (suitable ratio) and complete mineral nutrients necessary for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Pure water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution, and cultivate them; they then become a static hydroponic flower with unique charm.

When preparing nutrient solution, it is best to use pure water. Of course, ordinary drinking tap water can also be used to prepare nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that pure water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically contains no nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains unstable nutrient elements as the composition of the water source changes. Therefore, nutrient solution prepared with pure water has a stable and consistent composition, while nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for several days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) can be added to 10 kg of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the acidity and alkalinity of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and maintain green leaf color.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve flower quality, the method of leaf surface fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-hole spray pot should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, use a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution once a week to spray the leaf surface until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer freezing damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-tolerant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and scorch-like brown spots appear on the leaf margins, showing a heat-intolerant dormant state, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but without direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plants have phototropism. The orientation of displayed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will keep the flower from growing to one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray mist on the leaf surface of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to the balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run off. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are displayed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, then in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, causing leaves to yellow and fall and new shoots to become thin and shriveled. In places where hydroponic flowers are displayed, doors and windows should be opened regularly to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves and dry leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays need this work even more.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics gets rid of infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it is not grown in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed at the roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc. If they are not carefully inspected and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach for possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to yellow and fall. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling in large numbers, causing the lower end to become separated and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower stem-separated branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at that time it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow ti plant, arrowhead vine, and others can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate for display

Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m based on room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, the following four "requirements" must be noted:

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If a type not suitable for hydroponics is purchased for water culture, it will soon gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead vine, pothos, philodendron, wandering jew, lucky bamboo, etc.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, making them prone to freezing damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with only slight cold protection include monstera, purple oyster plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, miniature palm, bamboo palm, etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials may look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants without pests or diseases. Plants with upright, energetic branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not require extra care. Usually, it is only necessary to spray water on the leaf surface in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surface, wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely separated from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment like soil-grown flowers due to pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials for planting. Not only can we appreciate the flowers and leaves, but we can also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their ever-changing beauty, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to cultivate water roots through planting baskets, nor does it need the earlier computer or electric field mutation induction. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit space, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market. At the same time, because production costs are relatively low, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, quickly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. Thus some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow indoors at home with hydroponics, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, and can be grown together with fish

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, it is not easy for mosquitoes and insects to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your potted flowers at home, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable moisture, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, and other conditions. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissue in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although they do not have ventilating tissue and aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are still very adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, it is necessary to choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and do not blindly cultivate them, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time, grow rapidly, and quickly form a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-grown plants are washed, most of their original root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen, spotted dumb cane, silver king, golden queen, clustered bird's nest fern, mini monstera, monstera, peace lily, green gem, philodendron, fiddle-leaf philodendron, green emperor philodendron, arrowhead vine, taro, anthurium, emerald gem, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple inch plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bamboo-leaf plant, wandering jew, etc., all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown from water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, ti plant, dragon blood tree, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged evergreen, silver-edged lilyturf, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as aeonium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, silver jade, jade plant, mother of thousands, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue chalk sticks, bamboo begonia, ox-ear begonia, green gem, clivia, lady's slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, candle plant, leaf cactus, triangular bamboo, pineapple plant, earth star, chloranthus, star jasmine, dragon bone, rainbow cactus, variegated periwinkle, red-backed eupatorium, Sihuibo, English ivy, common ivy, bamboo palm, miniature palm, etc.

When selecting hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and croton require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead vine, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and dragon blood tree types also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. This certainly will not be a problem for rooms heated in winter, but for most families, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to low-temperature freezing damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will scorch, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, even causing large numbers of leaves to fall or parts of branches and leaves to die, thereby losing ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable conditions for raising them, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as evergreen, star jasmine, bamboo palm, agave, aucuba, jade plant, sea onion, variegated lilyturf, etc., which can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as monstera, purple inch plant, bamboo-leaf plant, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, chloranthus, rainbow cactus, variegated periwinkle, common ivy, miniature palm, etc., which can safely overwinter with only slight protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as red gem philodendron, green gem philodendron, arrowhead vine, pothos, snake plant, croton, etc., although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade tolerance issue

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple inch plant, and wandering jew need sufficient scattered light, while peace lily, giant taro, Guangdong evergreen, and silver king all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions within a room vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement position to ensure normal flower growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and proper luster, the colored stripes on the leaves to become lighter and fade, and even cause large numbers of leaves to fall, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Technique for growing spider plant in water

Spider plant has fresh green leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it also has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For the single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For the double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle vessel as the lower layer. Plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove potted or field-grown spider plants from pots or dig them up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves), keep robust leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the treated spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for water supply. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle. Put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) into the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

1. Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, pouring water in through the straw until the container is full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing the water, pour out the old water, wash the container clean, fill it with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on top of the water bottle.

2. Fertilizer: For the roots, flower nutrient solution is added at the same time as water is added or changed. For foliar feeding, spray the leaves and branches once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

3. Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with universal powder mixed with water.

4. Promoting flowering: Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) blooms half a year after potting. Do not spray water on the flowers when they are in bloom, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut them off from the branch tips to encourage reblooming.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family comprise 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia, arising in the waters or swamps of forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common outstanding ornamental plants (genera) in the Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and others. Although the plants of these genera are all terrestrial, they have an extremely close genetic relationship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytic species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma under stressful conditions.
When terrestrial plants are grown in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a state of severe oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, choosing ones that have a close genetic relationship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close genetic relationship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed around aquatic genetic genes as their center. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive genus in the Araceae is Acorus, and the most advanced is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in the Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago) and first arising in aquatic environments. Pistia is found in freshwater waters across almost all continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolutionarily advanced monotypic genus in the Araceae. It is a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easily dispersed and migrated, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, the Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro (Colocasia esculenta).
As an aquatic plant, the evolutionarily advanced Pistia is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher foundation. Although the vast majority of species in the Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of their aquatic ancestors. And their final transformation into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation.” This shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
2. The Araceae belongs to the order Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae (duckweed family), which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that the Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close genetic relationship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward around aquatic genetic genes as their center, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationships of the order Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and that a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lilioid ancestors) with Arecales and Commelinales, and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has a close genetic relationship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has genetic affinity with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward around aquatic genetic genes as their center, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have genetic affinity with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperatures, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will degrade water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted. Second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating. Third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the roots have turned yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the base of the roots, and the epidermis will tear off very easily, leaving only the lignified part.

Once root rot appears, it should be trimmed off promptly. Generally, root rot spreads gradually upward from the root tips, so after trimming, continue until you reach normal roots. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic setups -- bottles, jars and containers, and their cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene rigid foam boxes (cases), and the like, with slight modification, they can become hydroponic carriers of various sizes and shapes. This not only makes use of local materials and puts everything to good use, but also greens the surrounding environment, with a charming feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, foil-lined square paper beverage cartons, and so on are originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside for use as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cups: According to the size of the mouth of the chosen container, select a plastic cold-drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth, to serve as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the roots can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material does not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, of the type used for clothing interlining. Gently rinse the soil off the seedlings to be hydroponically grown, or purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (offcuts cut from shoulder pads for jackets or from sofa and seat cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material; some is yellow, some is yellow with white), to thicken it so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup and anchor the plant. If none of the above materials are on hand, floral foam, after appropriate cutting, can also serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed roots, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success in hydroponics. By means of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the roots as nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, it must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae, which would compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent the liquid temperature from rising sharply due to direct sunlight exposure, it is best to provide shade measures, or place it where direct sunlight does not reach.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually, white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film, to prevent leakage of the nutrient solution. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Top cover: The top cover also serves as the planting board. Find a piece of polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the top cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height remains exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. Also, on the side of the top cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal use.

3. Planting cups: The material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net internal area of the box and 2.5-3 cm thick, to serve as the floating board. Cut some small holes 1-2 cm in diameter in a regular pattern on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and help the roots extend into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm thick when dry), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as a wick for absorbing the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer should extend about 6 cm beyond each of the four sides of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from the four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer containing nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's roots can extend freely on the floating board, coming into more direct contact with the air. Another part of the roots can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution or oxygenate it.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space inside the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added, until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrient content of the nutrient solution changes greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to a complete replacement.

The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of most foliage flowers are warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also requires creating a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle sprayer, so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, a damp towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If statically hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people leave home for work during the day, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor have fresh air; dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, growth becomes worse and worse, and symptoms appear such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to create air convection, so that fresh outside air enters the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need this work done well.

The light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, when placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in relatively weak light and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain glossy leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined and completed when cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flowers 180 degrees relative to their original orientation for cultivation, which will keep the flowers from growing leaning to one side, with the shoot tips always upright and growing upward.

How hydroponic flowers can safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues begin to necrose below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, winter indoor temperatures generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most interiors have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

Why hydroponic flowers need their water changed

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and need their soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous spring and summer growing seasons, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants a variety of cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower, and prepare a container for hydroponically growing the cyclamen. With the preparatory work done, you can begin making the hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. Alternatively, the plant together with the substrate can be placed in a basin of water, the substrate swished off in the water, and then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying as much as possible to avoid injuring the cyclamen root system. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container; add water, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain 4-6 weeks of normal growth and flowering. At the same time, the water level should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of the water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water level.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in character and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessel and the way the cyclamen plants are combined. This all relies on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: 1. labor-saving; 2. hygienic; 3. few pests and diseases; 4. simple management; 5. long flowering period; 6. you can view the roots and leaves and also enjoy the flowers, and so on.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), place a few attractive river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water and flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: 1. Spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. 2. Change the water once every fifteen days; after changing the water, add flower nutrient solution. 3. One month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the Hoya crown, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between hydroponic flowers and water-grown flowers

In recent years, some water-grown and hydroponic flowers have become favored by people for being fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-grown and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water growing generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water to fix them, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water growing mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-grown flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second, to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2-3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7-10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third, to maintain sufficient sunlight, so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant's roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system immersed in water, while the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution cultivation. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main varieties cultivated include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazil wood, Dieffenbachia, clustered taro, Monstera, jade plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the characteristics of the root system have already changed: the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-grown plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, absolutely avoid using metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

A brief introduction to hydroponic flower techniques

Hydroponic flowers are one common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; a few commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside, wrapping the plant to form a dark internal space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant roots. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap black plastic film around the bottle, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, and cover the bottle cap; the top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, but not too full; leave a gap to give the plant oxygen to breathe. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing the solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowering plants, change it once a week during the summer peak growing season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growing season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month in a row without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so the bottle should be replenished with water frequently to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of the trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

1. Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed with. From a selected mother flower plant, cut off part of a stem or branch, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will take root and sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below a node, and the cut surface should be smooth, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches that have aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into the water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, and others are all suitable for hydroponics by this method.

2. Root washing method: Select a flower that has ornamental value, is robust in growth, and has already formed under soil cultivation (or other media cultivation). Remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flower in a prepared vessel, and pour in tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially, change to clean water once a day, while also cleaning the roots and vessel. After a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flower grows new roots in the water, it indicates it has adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water once every 7-10 days or even longer.

3. Tiller stripping method: This is suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the tiller's roots), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

4. Picking off plantlets from runners: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots. Spider plant and hanging bromeliads both have this characteristic. Using this feature of the flowers, pick off the formed small plantlets for hydroponics; it is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Aglaonema, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus.

Guide to the difficulties of summer care for hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated in non-solid media (water, or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers and possibly causing root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water-grown ribbon grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and it can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of the flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered and rotten roots, and cut the aged roots shorter to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito eggs or wrigglers breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced immediately with new solution.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to hold the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, and gently shake it more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration oxygenation method should not be used; the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/L, while in static water it is only 1 mg/L. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, and a miniature circulation pump is installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; during operation, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is clearly better than in static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also gives good results.

3. Where is it suitable to place hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers for both foliage and bloom appreciation. Such as Syngonium, white-edged Dieffenbachia, Spathiphyllum, anthurium, bromeliads, and so on. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate a little shade, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not be too shaded either, lest the flowers' photosynthesis be hindered and growth weaken, with stem nodes elongating and leaf texture becoming thinner. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air conditioner's air outlet; too fast an air speed will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. You should also consider that the flower's temperature requirement is higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, the environmental temperature will be higher than the daytime temperature with the air conditioner on, which is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surface to increase environmental humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air conditioner's air outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers suffer root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature will also rise, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can all cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the liliaceous Cordyline, Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), and rainbow dracaena.

For flowers with root rot, the following methods can be used to restore their growth:

1. Remove all the rotten root system; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

2. Soak the trimmed flower in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

3. Take out the soaked flower and rinse it under running water.

4. Put the washed flower back into the original vessel and grow it in clean water (the vessel should be washed clean).

5. Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water without nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

6. Newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water; wait until the temperature stabilizes at 18-25 degrees Celsius, then cultivate with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good container transparency, a bright environment, or leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long can all cause algae to multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace it with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special form of cultivation, a cultivation method belonging to soilless cultivation. The roots of the flowers are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six, or even a dozen, bottles of hydroponic flowers are cultivated at the same time, and the varieties are all different, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For the sake of simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macronutrients and trace elements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, the scope of application is wide, and it is suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. It is non-toxic and harmless, and its pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, and their quality varies. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, for Spathiphyllum, pothos, mini Monstera, red ruby, and Philodendron, nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For flowers such as Coleus, begonia, and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass through summer safely.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not increase the concentration at will. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown in hydroponics changes, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macronutrients is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn. At this time the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth, and they adapt easily to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: 1. Select varieties that are relatively closely related to moisture-loving flowers. 2. Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium, mini Monstera, red ruby Philodendron, green giant, pothos, and some bromeliad flowers of the Araceae family have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off completely. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it, and use a larger container for cultivation. Change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo banana, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

It likes high temperature and high humidity, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees. In summer, avoid direct sunlight, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, the leaves will scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

2: Suitable for sufficient scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as anzu flower and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment, and avoids direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, and it must be above 10 degrees for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant, so heating and warmth must be provided in winter.

2: It likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azalea and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had a compact crown structure and abundant flowering; the flower diameter was large and there were few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine, so the substrate is required to be loose to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, and after drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azalea has relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macronutrients: add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g disodium edetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than in soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the stage of flower bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, so the fertilizer requirement is relatively large. Water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is high. In addition to watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves, and the fertilizer amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, the fertilizer amount can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month and spraying foliar fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote healthy and strong growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azalea is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately depending on the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, and covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

It likes a warm, shady, moist, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter it should be kept above 4 degrees, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose a large, densely clustered plant, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape. Then repot them, water thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, moist place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal maintenance.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the second spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasitic insects.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. The purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant coloration, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunscald, but when it is too shaded the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose thick and strong branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting place them in a shaded, moist place. They can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high temperatures in summer, the roots rot easily.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlour palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short and small plant. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and full of luster.

Habits

It likes a warm, moist, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. At 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3 degrees.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when it is too shaded the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating it, small plants can be grown below it.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus balls are cultivated by traditional methods, they have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First we must choose a cactus ball with a sturdy body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls grafted and cultivated with three-angled sword are easier to hydroponically cultivate

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots below the ball body, and the cut surface should be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth part of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down. Note: the bottle mouth should be cut off so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword into the triangular holes. At this time, the roots of all the three-angled swords just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the growth of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and switch on the power to achieve flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20 degrees, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, immediately replace the nutrient solution.

Note:

During the induction process of the cactus ball, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it easily causes the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when hydroponically cultivating clivia at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note:

1. Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. A glass bottle can be used; a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

2. The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

3. Replacing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution replacement. The number of replacements depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be replaced about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be replaced once every 10 days. When replacing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically hydroponically cultivate amaryllis

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or have not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green parts, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and put them into a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper mouth of the flower container. Finally, place it in a bright place indoors. Keep the room temperature at around 10°C, and in about 7-10 days it will begin to grow leaves and roots. The water in the pot must always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be added promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine maintenance. In this way, the hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the period when flowers are scarce in summer.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and its supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plant and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human planting history, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is Agrculfure, formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus leading to the conclusion that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts, and they called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with medium and hydroponic flowers without medium. Hydroponics with medium refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponics without medium is further divided into direct hydroponics, floating hydroponics, planting basket hydroponics, atomized hydroponics, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its own advantages and disadvantages, but if judged only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because there are computers to control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in a timely manner, and there are specialized technicians using pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without medium. Without medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not produce odor, have no off-flavor, and still grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but nutrient solution formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret technology, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots grow, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will become necrotic. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, the indoor temperature in winter generally does not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extremely low temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoor spaces have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be hydroponically cultivated. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and usual feeding be handled?
Answer: Because "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Each of our specialty stores has a model of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and because the volume is limited, fish varieties should also be selected. Fish species with relatively strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggressiveness or destructiveness are also not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also not suitable, because even raising them in specialized aquariums is difficult to succeed, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Water changes can be carried out at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as when we usually feed fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which benefits the respiration of plant roots, fish generally do not suffer from oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not particularly hot, there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solutions are all highly concentrated liquids and must be diluted before use; for dilution, tap water is generally fully sufficient to meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of the plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King causes the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plants to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction where water is abundant. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips grow toward deeper soil to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and to adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow in a more chaotic way, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, at a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can take a bonsai that has already grown water roots out of its pot, fix the plant with a planting basket, and decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a planting basket hydroponic flower. The difference is that because there is no soil now, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution, and it is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need to have their water changed?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more numerous. Therefore, after hydroponic flowers have grown for a period of time, the nutrient solution needs to be replaced with a new one. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need their soil changed once a year for this same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growing seasons of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or too weak light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest that you had better go to a specialty store of Hydroponic Flower King for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from fake hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great uproar across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, after witnessing everything I cannot help but complain a little. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests, but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. It is currently a low-temperature season, when plant respiration is weak. After washing the roots, plants can be directly soaked in water and kept in water for a period of time. Flooding-tolerant plants such as Araceae plants can survive in water for 1-2 months. But once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought for tens or hundreds and taken home is only a brief flash in the pan, not only harming consumers' interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter arrives, these plants slow their growth, respiration weakens, and in addition Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, for a time no discomfort can be seen from the plant's appearance, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely obstructed. Once the weather turns hot, the roots will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot be achieved, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid would, I think, be better and more honestly called "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be called swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just root washing and soaking in water, which even a fool can see through at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with lower costs and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is also equivalent to throwing it away. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing; it might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: In late autumn, winter, and early spring, Araceae plants can also be kept in water for a period of time after root washing and soaking in water. Everyone might as well try it; there is absolutely no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years, and I have also visited several countries abroad with relatively developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, with the fake mixed in with the genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to distinguish true from fake hydroponic flowers

True and fake hydroponic flowers are in fact the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but proceed only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after being kept for only a short time, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish true from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge true from fake by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs. That is, they will not exist in the state of multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is also a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few orders and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the proportion of roots is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge true from fake by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are still noticeably lighter in color than soil roots, such as yellowish white, pale yellow, light brown, and so on. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, thickened suberization and lignification.

C. Judge true from fake by root integrity: Roots induced by aquatic conditions grow and differentiate anew starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so the root system is complete. By contrast, although some soil-cultivated plants have been carefully washed, there are always slight injuries or serious residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge true from fake by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions carry out anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, unclear sensation, that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually seedling death.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge true from fake: In particular, for many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf insertion angle is noticeably more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leads to a larger angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Aside from light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors, which have exactly the same requirements as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ greatly in the management of water, fertilizer, and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source; generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are severely eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If the content of one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more impermissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse and extending toward the liquid surface in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Increase oxygen by shaking: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or oxygen pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

For hydroponic flowers, growing flowers and fish together and combining movement and stillness is the first impression it gives. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier also grew some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar water-tolerant plants in water, this concept does not belong to the "hydroponic flowers" concept popular with everyone now!). It rose in 2003. Many enterprises and units with market vision successively devoted themselves to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it became very popular from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product. On the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still remain in such a chaotic market tide, but those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the broad masses of citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

II. What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and so on), and keeping a few lovely small fish below, that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological traits of their root systems change, possessing water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt to long-term cultivation in water before they can become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

III. How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current state of hydroponic flower technology I. Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, the plant root system after induction and acclimation should have roots that are white, elegant, and with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants. The root systems of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root systems have their own unique color. For example, after induction, loropetalum from its roots to its branches and stem sections is all dark red! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are also nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago, and was placed there to fool users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

Judging from the technology:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If it is as some merchants say: all that is needed is the so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few tens of minutes or a few minutes, then this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon carry out anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. Thus, a large amount of fermented matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of a plant's water root system is truly achieved, forming aerenchyma tissue and enabling the hydroponic plant to adapt well to the low-oxygen state in water, can it truly be called a hydroponic flower. Moreover, the cultivation of a water root system cannot be fully completed and realized by nutrient solution alone. It requires multiple methods and means including biological, physical, and computer-based ones, and after a relatively long period of cultivation and complete adaptation to the water environment, can it become a professional true hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water, grass, and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from the natural sensory impression, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the producer possesses such an aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor manufacturers with strength and brand as supply sources, then such a provider of hydroponic flowers is very likely just passing off soil-cultivated plants after root washing as "hydroponic flowers"!

Checking from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae that are themselves easy to grow in water, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, and Rohdea. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics of various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, and so on. If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it certainly does not belong to a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the final and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water, but are only a brief flash in the pan and die within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours after washing away the soil-cultivated root system. In just a few days, the flowers bloom and then fade and fall! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the commodity, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the commodity, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
IV. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology-transfer companies that start advertising to rake in money after renting a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Bureau of Retired Cadres of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, despite having no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel; and also to deprive malicious sellers who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and furthermore so that you can learn these several genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where across the country or in what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be extra vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go and see the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "education shills," "housing shills," and "wine shills," and fool you with the skill of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible for you to guard against them!}}; you must carefully examine the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product itself, in fact everyone only needs to be a little more vigilant to see through one by one the many speculators. The following points of experience, several types


 How to carry out root-outside fertilization for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under the condition of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and as much as possible the fertilizer solution should not be lost. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growing period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing that can also be enjoyed for their blooms, such as Alocasia, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.