Key Points of Transplanting, Pruning and Planting Techniques for Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

Pruning Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Before Transplanting

For newly transplanted evergreen trees and shrubs, pruning before planting is essential. The amount of pruning should be moderate while preserving the basic framework of the transplanted tree. Of course, the specific amount of pruning also depends on the tree species, season, size, and whether the root ball is intact.

To ensure the survival rate of transplanted evergreen trees and shrubs, the amount of pruning is usually controlled at 1/4, 1/2, or 2/3. In particular, camphor trees (Cinnamomum camphora) and Du Ying (Elaeocarpus sylvestris) should be pruned heavily rather than lightly to achieve a survival rate of over 95%.

When transplanting large-sized trees or trees whose root balls have already been damaged, larger wounds are inevitably left when the lateral roots are cut and the lateral branches of the crown are pruned, and these wounds will accelerate the tree's water loss.

For this, the measures usually taken are to apply wax, paint, or chemical treatments to the wounds. First, wound sealant can prevent the loss of water and nutrients, help the tree's wounds recover, and promote wound healing; second, root rot preventive can inhibit the occurrence of root rot, create a good growth environment for the tree's root system, and thereby increase the tree's survival rate; third, transpiration inhibitor can inhibit the evaporation of water from the tree and increase the survival rate.

Transplanting and Planting of Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

The transplanting and planting of evergreen trees and shrubs is similar to that of deciduous trees and shrubs, but note that "deep hole, shallow planting" is preferable.

When digging the planting hole, the soil dug out (the shallow soil at 30 cm below the surface and the deep soil below 30 cm from the surface) must be placed separately beside the hole, so that after the root ball is placed into the hole, soil can be backfilled and tamped at the same time. The diameter of the planting hole must be 20-30 cm larger than the diameter of the root ball to facilitate operation; the depth of the hole should be slightly shallower than the thickness of the root ball. If larger-sized evergreen trees are planted, the thickness of the cushion soil at the bottom of the tree hole is also different; generally, the bottom soil is cushioned to 20-30 cm.

When digging the hole, pay attention to keeping the bottom of the hole level. The upper and lower diameters of the hole should be the same size, and it must not be shaped like a pot bottom. When the root ball is placed into the hole, a small amount of soil can first be cushioned under the root ball to make the tree stand upright and stable, and then the packaging material should be cut open. Be sure to remove all materials that do not easily rot, so as to avoid the packaging material generating heat during the rotting process and affecting the growth of the tree.

After the tree is positioned and placed properly, soil can be backfilled. The topsoil dug out when digging the hole should be filled in while tamping, and when the filled soil is slightly lower than the ground, stop backfilling. Then water it. After the root ball settles to level with the ground, make a small surrounding ridge around the tree hole to form a watering weir. The next day, water into the weir again until thoroughly watered. Then rake the soil level and shape it into a steamed bun shape. Within one month, pay attention to water maintenance and management.