How to grow Paphiopedilum orchids? Cultivation methods and precautions

Paphiopedilum encyclopedia

Paphiopedilum, also known as slipper orchid. Orchidaceae perennial herb. Most are terrestrial species, with many hybrid varieties. It is one of the most widely cultivated exotic orchids. Mainly distributed under forests in tropical and subtropical Asia. It prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The stem is very short; the leaves are band-shaped or oblong-lanceolate, green or with reddish-brown markings. The flowers are very peculiar, with the lip shaped like a pouch; the dorsal sepal is extremely developed, with various brilliant patterns; the two lateral sepals are fused together; the petals are relatively thick, and the flowers are long-lived, some can stay open for more than 6 weeks, and there are species that bloom in all four seasons.

Ecological habits of Paphiopedilum

Paphiopedilum prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, and fears strong sunlight and exposure.

The suitable growth temperature for green-leaf varieties is 12-18°C, and for mottled-leaf varieties is 15-25°C. The highest temperature they can tolerate is about 30°C, and the overwintering temperature should preferably be around 10-15°C.

Generally speaking, the warm-type mottled-leaf varieties mostly bloom in summer and autumn, while the cool-type green-leaf varieties bloom in winter and spring. The stem is extremely short, the leaves are leathery, nearly basal, band-shaped or oblong-lanceolate, green or with reddish-brown markings.

Paphiopedilum propagation methods

Seed propagation

Because Paphiopedilum seeds are very small and the embryo is not fully developed, it is relatively difficult to germinate by conventional sowing methods. The embryo can only be cultured aseptically in a test tube with a culture medium. After germination, it undergoes 2-3 times of seedling division and transplanting in the test tube. When the seedling grows to 3 cm tall, it can be removed from the test tube and planted in a pot. It takes 4-5 years from sowing to flowering. The Paphiopedilum culture medium consists of 3 grams of Hyponex No. 1, 35 grams of sucrose, 2 grams of peptone, 15 grams of agar and 1000 ml of distilled water.

Division propagation

Paphiopedilum with more than 5-6 leaf clusters can all be divided, and potted plants can be divided once every 2-3 years. Division is carried out during the short dormant period after flowering. In the Yangtze River basin region, April to May is best, and it can be combined with repotting. Tip the mother plant out of the pot, gently remove the potting soil attached to the roots, being careful not to damage the tender roots and new shoots, then pull the plants apart with both hands, or cut the connecting parts with a knife. Each cluster should not have fewer than 3 plants, then plant them separately, choosing 2-3 seedlings per pot. Use fertile leaf mold as potting soil, with a pH of 6-6.5. After potting, place in a shady and humid place to help the roots recover.

Aseptic sowing propagation

Because Paphiopedilum seeds are small and the embryo is not fully developed, embryo culture can only be carried out under aseptic conditions. When the seedling grows to 3 cm, it is removed and potted. Generally it takes 4-5 years from sowing to flowering.

Key points of four-season care and management for Paphiopedilum

Spring management

(1) Cultivation site:

Since slipper orchids originate from dimly lit environments, direct sunlight must be strictly avoided, and 50-60% shading is necessary. If placed in a greenhouse for cultivation, a layer of shade netting should be used to reduce sunlight exposure. At the same time, there should be appropriate spacing between pots to facilitate ventilation. If placed indoors, windows should also be used to block part of the light. When moving from indoors to outdoors, they must not be immediately exposed to the sun, so as not to scorch the orchid leaves. When cultivating outdoors, choose a place that does not receive rain and has good ventilation.

(2) Watering:

The native habitat of slipper orchids is humid areas, so they like water all year round. When the surface of the sphagnum moss and potting material appears slightly dry, water should be given promptly to keep the pot moist at all times. When watering, water until it flows out from the bottom of the pot, so as to expel old water and air from the pot. When watering, in addition to watering the roots thoroughly, also spray water on the leaves, which can better promote the growth of new shoots. During the plum rain period, water according to the dryness of the potting material surface.

(3) Fertilizer:

When new shoots begin to grow, apply liquid fertilizer diluted 1000 times with N-P-K (composition ratio 6.5-6-19) once a week. Before use, read the brand's instructions carefully and mix according to the indicated concentration; it should not be too dilute, nor too concentrated. If using solid fertilizer mixed with oil cake and bone meal, apply once between March and April; for a 4-5 inch pot, place one granule. If the potting material is new sphagnum moss, or the orchid plant is repotted once every 2 years, sometimes no fertilization is needed and it can still bloom. But if old sphagnum moss or potting material is used, more fertilizer should be applied.

(4) Pest and disease control:

During the plum rain period, due to high temperature and humidity, slipper orchids often suffer from soft rot during this period. Therefore, special attention should be paid to ventilation; it is advisable to hang the orchid plants in a place with a gentle breeze for cultivation. In the early stage of soft rot, a water-soaked brown rotting phenomenon appears at the base of the orchid plant. The preventive method is to spray 800 times diluted Daconil wettable powder, or 1000 times diluted Benlate wettable powder, twice a month before entering the plum rain period.

(5) Repotting:

Usually repot after flowering and before new roots grow; the most suitable time is when the nighttime temperature is above 12-13°C. Repotting does not need to be done every year, about once every two years is enough. If you only want to grow a large plant, just move it to a larger pot; if you want to propagate, then carry out division. Since slipper orchids have few roots, be very careful and never damage the roots. When repotting, carefully remove the old potting material with bamboo chopsticks, and remove rotten roots. If the potting material used is sphagnum moss, fill the bottom of the unglazed pot with broken pieces of Styrofoam to facilitate drainage. If light stone is used as the potting material, since unglazed pots dry out easily, it is advisable to switch to ceramic pots. When using sphagnum moss as the potting material, besides pressing it firmly, adding oyster shells or limestone fragments will give better results. Within half a month after repotting, place in a shady place, reduce the amount of watering, and frequently spray water on the leaves to promote the growth of new roots. If watered too much during this period, rooting will instead be delayed, so pay special attention to this point.

[Note]:

Division Division usually means dividing into one plant every 2-3 shoots, and the principles are as follows:

1. Thick and large new shoots are divided into one plant by themselves.

2. Small new shoots and old shoots are divided into one plant.

3. Old shoots that have already flowered are planted separately as one plant. When dividing, first pull up the orchid plant, observe carefully, and after deciding the number of divisions, carefully remove the old sphagnum moss. Since there are very few roots, when dividing, hold the leaf base of each division with your fingers, then gently separate them, replant, and after watering place in a shady place.

Summer management

(1) Cultivation site:

Summer sunlight is very strong, especially after the plum rain, when the temperature rises a lot, so the shading rate should be increased to 60%-70%. Whether cultivated in a greenhouse or indoors, another layer of shade netting should be added to avoid sunscald on the leaves. When using shade netting, keep it as far away from the orchid plants as possible; if it is too close, it not only hinders ventilation but also accumulates heat, weakening the orchid plants. Mottled-leaf slipper orchids need brighter light than plain-leaf ones, therefore plain-leaf slipper orchids need brighter light than mottled-leaf ones. Therefore, if plain-leaf slipper orchids are shaded too much, the leaves will grow too long and droop, and flowering will also be poor.

(2) Watering:

In summer, slipper orchids grow quickly; if not watered every day, they will dry out, so water thoroughly in both morning and evening. If the daytime temperature exceeds 30°C and the nighttime temperature exceeds 25°C, besides watering the pots thoroughly, also water around the shelves and the ground to keep things cool. When cultivating indoors, if air conditioning is on, there is no particular effect. But if the night is too stuffy and hot, it is best to move them outdoors for cultivation.

(3) Fertilizer:

Summer is the peak growth season for slipper orchids, so fertilizer is indispensable. Apply 1000 times diluted liquid fertilizer once a week until mid-September. Besides applying liquid fertilizer directly into the pot, it can also be sprayed on the leaves with a sprayer. For solid fertilizer mixed with oil cake and bone meal, apply twice between May and July, and stop using it by August. Applying concentrated fertilizer in extreme heat can easily cause root rot and damage the orchid roots.

(4) Pest and disease control:

Soft rot is most likely to appear in summer. Slipper orchids are mostly cultivated indoors; if ventilation is poor and the temperature rises, the new tender shoots easily turn black and drop, causing the whole plant to wither. Besides spraying fungicide, the prevention method is to keep the placement site well ventilated; once affected, stop watering for 5-6 days to keep the orchid plant dry.

Autumn management

(1) Cultivation site:

Compared with summer, autumn not only has shorter sunshine hours but also weaker sunlight. If two layers of shade netting are still used, it will cause insufficient sunlight, so remove one layer and maintain 50-60% shading. Western exposure easily causes leaf scorch, so still avoid western sunlight. Good ventilation should still be maintained. In late autumn, if the nighttime temperature is lower, close the windows around the greenhouse.

(2) Watering:

Watering is generally done when the surface of the potting material dries. Since it has entered the growth-stopping period, its water absorption is far less than in summer. Therefore, generally water once every 2-3 days. Because the air is dry this season, the surface of the potting material dries easily. There is often a phenomenon where, when the surface of the potting material appears dry, the inner layer is still very moist, so watering should not be too wet. In addition, note that water easily accumulates in the heart of the orchid and causes flower buds to rot. Therefore, for orchid plants with flower buds, watering requires special attention.

(3) Fertilizer:

Same as summer, apply liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a month, but for flowering plants, suspend fertilization.

(4) Removal of old leaves:

When this year's growth ends, the leaves that grew in the previous two years turn tea-brown and are about to wither. This is not a disease, just an aging phenomenon; just carefully remove or cut them off from the base.

(5) Weeding:

When cultivating in urban areas, this problem is relatively uncommon. But when cultivating in suburbs or fields, weed seeds often fly everywhere and sprout all over, causing great trouble. Therefore, in early to late autumn, pull out the weeds with their roots; once they are allowed to grow, it becomes quite difficult to remove them.

Winter management

(1) Cultivation site:

Because the sunlight is weaker in winter and the sunshine hours are short, the shade netting originally used can all be removed. However, for newly built aluminum-frame greenhouses, because of their strong emission capacity, for safety's sake, a layer of shade netting may still be used to maintain 30% shading. Since the sunshine hours indoors are extremely short, when placing them by an indoor window, there is also no need for curtain shading. The nighttime temperature in winter is relatively low; if it is below 13-15°C, it is best to move the orchid plants indoors or into a greenhouse. Each slipper orchid has different adaptability to the lowest temperature. Plain-leaf varieties are the most cold-tolerant, about 5-7°C, while the rest are above 10°C. The optimal suitable temperature for plain-leaf varieties is 10-13°C, and for the rest it is 15°C. The daytime temperature should preferably not exceed 25°C, and air circulation should be maintained.

In winter when the air is dry, it is advisable to place the pots in an indoor air trough or Styrofoam box, which both keeps them warm and prevents drying.

(2) Watering:

As the flower buds gradually grow and the flower stems also need to grow, water absorption increases greatly. If water is insufficient at this time, it is quite unfavorable for the growth of the flower stems, and they will stop growing within a short time, so special care must be taken not to let them dry out too much.

In winter, it is best to water before noon, when the surface of the potting material appears dry.

(3) Humidity:

Slipper orchids like a high-humidity environment all year round; usually the humidity should be maintained at around 60-80%. If the humidity is insufficient, it has an adverse effect on the growth of slipper orchids and causes the plants to weaken. When humidity is insufficient, water the ground to increase humidity. Or spray water on the leaves, but the amount of water should be such that no water accumulates in the heart of the orchid. If cultivating on a large scale, one can only rely on a humidifier.

(4) Fertilization

Orchid plants that have already grown flower buds and are flowering do not need fertilization.

(5) Staking:

During the flower bud growth period, if the air is too stuffy and hot or too much fertilizer is applied, the flower stem will be unable to extend upright and may fall over or bloom downward. To avoid this situation, set up a stake before the flower stem has taken shape, then tie it with string to secure it. To make the stake, cut a 25-40 cm length of wire, bend 3-4 cm at one end into a right angle, then bend half of it back to form a U shape.

Key points of care and management for Paphiopedilum during the flowering period

Temperature control and shading Paphiopedilum originates from low-latitude, high-altitude areas, so it cannot grow normally under too low or too high temperatures. In winter, special attention should be paid to keeping it warm; the nighttime room temperature should be above 10°C, and the daytime temperature should be 5°C to 10°C higher than the nighttime temperature. Paphiopedilum also relatively likes sunlight, but direct sunlight should be avoided. In autumn, more than 70% of sunlight should be shaded, and in winter more than 50% should be shaded, so that it can bloom well. Maintain humidity Paphiopedilum likes a humid environment and has poor drought resistance, and its flowering period coincides with the dry autumn and winter seasons, so the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprinkled around the flower pot to maintain relatively high air humidity. If the humidity is insufficient, the leaves easily turn yellow and shrink, directly affecting flowering.

Moderate fertilization During the growth period, Paphiopedilum should be given phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer. If there is too much nitrogen fertilizer, it grows luxuriantly with dark green leaves but does not bloom; if it lacks phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, it likewise blooms very little. It is best to apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water. If conditions permit, it is best to spray 1‰ potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves every 10 to 15 days to let the leaves absorb it, with very good results.

Ventilation and pest prevention When overwintering indoors, Paphiopedilum should be placed in a ventilated place, otherwise scale insect damage will occur. Once pest damage is found, it can be gently brushed off manually with a soft brush, then rinsed clean with water, and then controlled with pesticides such as dimethoate, trichlorfon, and Supracide.

Cultivation methods and precautions for Paphiopedilum rothschildianum

Chinese name: Paphiopedilum rothschildianum

Alternative name: Rothschild's slipper orchid

Latin scientific name: Paph rothschildianum

Family and genus: Orchidaceae, Paphiopedilum

Origin and distribution: Sabah

Paphiopedilum rothschildianum is a type of green-leaf Paphiopedilum. The flowers are exceptionally beautiful, with the two lateral petals ribbon-like, spiraling downward, elegant and flowing, about 30 cm long. Its flowering rate is extremely low, and it may take 7-8 years of cultivation before it can bloom. It needs to keep the potting material moist, but the potting material must not lack air permeability. It has strong disease resistance and does not need frequent spraying. It is easy to cultivate. Just place it in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny environment. The temperature should not be lower than 5°C.

Cultivation methods and precautions for Paphiopedilum insigne

1. Basic introduction

2. Morphological characteristics

3. Growth environment

4. Origin and distribution