How to care for potted flowers at different stages? A complete guide to the key care points

Watering in well to settle the roots

The first watering after planting is called the rooting water. The rooting water must be given generously and thoroughly. Because the newly planted soil has not fully settled, there are many air pockets in the soil, and only after thorough watering can the soil and roots fully bind together. Generally, after planting, water twice in succession; after the first watering drains down and water is seen flowing out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, water thoroughly once more. Only in this way can you ensure the soil absorbs enough water and binds closely with the roots.

When watering, most flowers are watered by spraying. This both increases air humidity and rinses dust from the leaf surface. However, for flowers with fuzzy leaves or those in bloom, you should not spray water; instead, set the pot in a basin of water and let water seep in through the drainage hole at the bottom to keep the potting soil moist.

In summer, potted flowers respire vigorously and require good air permeability in the potting soil. Therefore, when the potting soil is not dry, generally do not water, so that excess water does not affect aeration; but once it is dry, water immediately and water thoroughly. In summer, potting soil often cracks from becoming too dry, so watering cannot be done all at once; otherwise the water runs straight down through the cracks to the bottom of the pot while most of the potting soil remains very dry. After the first watering, wait a moment, and once the soil cracks have closed, water again.

If you forget to water for several days and the plant becomes drought-stressed and wilted, do not rush to pour a large amount of water. First move the potted flower to a cool, ventilated place, and use a spray bottle to mist the leaves 2 to 3 times. After the leaves recover, water a small amount, and once the roots have regained their water-absorbing function, water thoroughly.

Water with caution in midsummer and deep winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the physiological activity of flower roots. If the water temperature differs greatly from the soil temperature (more than 5°C), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature that damages the roots, which in turn affects the roots' absorption of water and causes physiological drought. Therefore, it is better to water when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, and this is especially important in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a while first, or add a little warm water, raising the water temperature to 15 to 20°C before watering. In summer, avoid watering under the blazing sun and during the high heat at noon.

When to water flowers

When choosing a time to water, try to keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature. In general, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is within 5°C, watering flowers is relatively safe and will not damage the roots. As for the specific time of day to water, spring, summer, autumn and winter are all different.

In spring, autumn and winter, around 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. are suitable times to water flowers. At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high, and the leaf surface temperature of flowers can often reach around 40°C. Transpiration is strong, and water evaporates quickly as well, so the roots need to keep absorbing water to make up for the loss from leaf transpiration. If cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the potting soil, the sudden drop in soil temperature stimulates the root hairs with low temperature, which immediately hinders normal water absorption. At this point, because the flower body is unprepared and the leaf stomata have not closed, water supply and demand lose their balance, causing leaf cells to go from a turgid state to wilting, producing "physiological drought" in the plant, with scorched leaves and, in severe cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is especially obvious in herbaceous flowers; for example, geraniums, cypress vine and China aster most dread cold water at noon in hot weather. Therefore, never water flowers at noon in the heat of summer. By the same reasoning, in winter, when the temperature difference between morning and evening is large, you should of course water at noon when the soil temperature and air temperature are relatively close. Many flower growers are in the habit of watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking this is best, but in fact the opposite is true, especially in winter or indoors: if you water at night, moisture dissipates slowly, increasing the humidity of the potting soil and the air, which easily leads to disease infection and cold damage in flowers.

Watering at different developmental stages

1. Seedling stage

The potting soil should be on the dry side. As the saying goes, "Dry roots grow, wet leaves grow." Slightly dry soil makes it easier to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow leggy.

2. Vegetative growth stage

Only with sufficient watering can the branches and leaves flourish; otherwise the plant grows slowly. But you also must not blindly water too much, causing waterlogging in the potting soil and root rot. The general watering principle is to water when the potting soil is dry and stop when it is wet, alternating dry and wet, with the aim of keeping the soil just below the surface moist. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean the potting soil has no moisture at all. The saying "water thoroughly only when completely dry, until water is seen flowing from the bottom hole" is unscientific. Because once the soil is completely dry, cracks form between the pot and the soil, and when you water, the water quickly runs off in large amounts through the cracks, so it clearly cannot be watered thoroughly. In this situation, loosen the soil first and then water, or simply use the soaking method to supply water.

3. Reproductive growth stage

When flowers transition from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if there is too much water or too much nitrogen fertilizer, already-formed flower buds can turn back into leaf buds. Therefore, during flower bud differentiation you can use water withholding (controlled watering) to suppress leggy growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud formation. For example, for bougainvillea, plum blossom, ornamental peach and magnolia, withhold water 2 to 3 times respectively in June to July, and water again once the shoot tips and leaves wilt; this can effectively increase the flowering rate.

4. Flowering and fruit-setting stage

Once flowers enter the stage of bud formation, flowering and fruiting, water consumption is greatest. Water must not be in short supply, and the shoot tips and leaves must not be allowed to wilt; otherwise the flowering period shortens and flowering is poor. But it should not be too much either, especially not waterlogged; long-term waterlogging can cause flower and fruit drop.

The above are general rules. The number of waterings should also be flexibly adjusted according to the local climate and environmental conditions at the time, such as air humidity, the material and size of the pot, and the condition of the potting soil.

Key care points for potted flowers at different stages

Different kinds of flowers have different water requirements. For example, succulents such as cactus and ball cactus are relatively drought-tolerant and do not need much watering; while flowers such as umbrella plant and Christmas cactus prefer a moist environment and need more watering. The same flower also has different water requirements at different growth stages: during vigorous growth it needs more water, so water appropriately more to promote growth; during flower bud differentiation, water appropriately less to promote flower bud differentiation.

Choosing water quality for watering flowers

Natural water is divided into hard water and soft water. Hard water has a high content of mineral salts, and long-term watering with it will adversely affect flower growth. Soft water has a low content of mineral salts and is ideal water for watering flowers. Rainwater, river water and lake water have low hardness and can be used directly for watering, but spring water, well water and other groundwater have very high hardness and cannot be used directly to water flowers. Tap water, because it contains chlorine and other disinfecting substances, is also not suitable for direct use. It is best to store it in an open vat, tank or other container for 3 to 5 days, and use it after the harmful substances in the water have volatilized and settled.

Watering in well to settle the roots

The first watering after planting is called the rooting water. The rooting water must be given generously and thoroughly. Because the newly planted soil has not fully settled, there are many air pockets in the soil, and only after thorough watering can the soil and roots fully bind together. Generally, after planting, water twice in succession; after the first watering drains down and water is seen flowing out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, water thoroughly once more. Only in this way can you ensure the soil absorbs enough water and binds closely with the roots.

When watering, most flowers are watered by spraying. This both increases air humidity and rinses dust from the leaf surface. However, for flowers with fuzzy leaves or those in bloom, you should not spray water; instead, set the pot in a basin of water and let water seep in through the drainage hole at the bottom to keep the potting soil moist.

In summer, potted flowers respire vigorously and require good air permeability in the potting soil. Therefore, when the potting soil is not dry, generally do not water, so that excess water does not affect aeration; but once it is dry, water immediately and water thoroughly. In summer, potting soil often cracks from becoming too dry, so watering cannot be done all at once; otherwise the water runs straight down through the cracks to the bottom of the pot while most of the potting soil remains very dry. After the first watering, wait a moment, and once the soil cracks have closed, water again.

If you forget to water for several days and the plant becomes drought-stressed and wilted, do not rush to pour a large amount of water. First move the potted flower to a cool, ventilated place, and use a spray bottle to mist the leaves 2 to 3 times. After the leaves recover, water a small amount, and once the roots have regained their water-absorbing function, water thoroughly.

Water with caution in midsummer and deep winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the physiological activity of flower roots. If the water temperature differs greatly from the soil temperature (more than 5°C), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature that damages the roots, which in turn affects the roots' absorption of water and causes physiological drought. Therefore, it is better to water when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, and this is especially important in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a while first, or add a little warm water, raising the water temperature to 15 to 20°C before watering. In summer, avoid watering under the blazing sun and during the high heat at noon.

When to water flowers

When choosing a time to water, try to keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature. In general, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is within 5°C, watering flowers is relatively safe and will not damage the roots. As for the specific time of day to water, spring, summer, autumn and winter are all different.

In spring, autumn and winter, around 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. are suitable times to water flowers. At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high, and the leaf surface temperature of flowers can often reach around 40°C. Transpiration is strong, and water evaporates quickly as well, so the roots need to keep absorbing water to make up for the loss from leaf transpiration. If cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the potting soil, the sudden drop in soil temperature stimulates the root hairs with low temperature, which immediately hinders normal water absorption. At this point, because the flower body is unprepared and the leaf stomata have not closed, water supply and demand lose their balance, causing leaf cells to go from a turgid state to wilting, producing "physiological drought" in the plant, with scorched leaves and, in severe cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is especially obvious in herbaceous flowers; for example, geraniums, cypress vine and China aster most dread cold water at noon in hot weather. Therefore, never water flowers at noon in the heat of summer. By the same reasoning, in winter, when the temperature difference between morning and evening is large, you should of course water at noon when the soil temperature and air temperature are relatively close. Many flower growers are in the habit of watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking this is best, but in fact the opposite is true, especially in winter or indoors: if you water at night, moisture dissipates slowly, increasing the humidity of the potting soil and the air, which easily leads to disease infection and cold damage in flowers.

Watering at different developmental stages

Seedling stage

The potting soil should be on the dry side. As the saying goes, "Dry roots grow, wet leaves grow." Slightly dry soil makes it easier to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow leggy.

Vegetative growth stage

Only with sufficient watering can the branches and leaves flourish; otherwise the plant grows slowly. But you also must not blindly water too much, causing waterlogging in the potting soil and root rot. The general watering principle is to water when the potting soil is dry and stop when it is wet, alternating dry and wet, with the aim of keeping the soil just below the surface moist. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean the potting soil has no moisture at all. The saying "water thoroughly only when completely dry, until water is seen flowing from the bottom hole" is unscientific. Because once the soil is completely dry, cracks form between the pot and the soil, and when you water, the water quickly runs off in large amounts through the cracks, so it clearly cannot be watered thoroughly. In this situation, loosen the soil first and then water, or simply use the soaking method to supply water.

Reproductive growth stage

When flowers transition from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if there is too much water or too much nitrogen fertilizer, already-formed flower buds can turn back into leaf buds. Therefore, during flower bud differentiation you can use water withholding (controlled watering) to suppress leggy growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud formation. For example, for bougainvillea, plum blossom, ornamental peach and magnolia, withhold water 2 to 3 times respectively in June to July, and water again once the shoot tips and leaves wilt; this can effectively increase the flowering rate.

Flowering and fruit-setting stage

Once flowers enter the stage of bud formation, flowering and fruiting, water consumption is greatest. Water must not be in short supply, and the shoot tips and leaves must not be allowed to wilt; otherwise the flowering period shortens and flowering is poor. But it should not be too much either, especially not waterlogged; long-term waterlogging can cause flower and fruit drop.

The above are general rules. The number of waterings should also be flexibly adjusted according to the local climate and environmental conditions at the time, such as air humidity, the material and size of the pot, and the condition of the potting soil.

Key care points for potted flowers at different stages

News from the China Garden Network on August 12: Different kinds of flowers have different water requirements. For example, succulents such as cactus and ball cactus are relatively drought-tolerant and do not need much watering; while flowers such as umbrella plant and Christmas cactus prefer a moist environment and need more watering. The same flower also has different water requirements at different growth stages: during vigorous growth it needs more water, so water appropriately more to promote growth; during flower bud differentiation, water appropriately less to promote flower bud differentiation.

Choosing water quality for watering flowers

Natural water is divided into hard water and soft water. Hard water has a high content of mineral salts, and long-term watering with it will adversely affect flower growth. Soft water has a low content of mineral salts and is ideal water for watering flowers. Rainwater, river water and lake water have low hardness and can be used directly for watering, but spring water, well water and other groundwater have very high hardness and cannot be used directly to water flowers. Tap water, because it contains chlorine and other disinfecting substances, is also not suitable for direct use. It is best to store it in an open vat, tank or other container for 3 to 5 days, and use it after the harmful substances in the water have volatilized and settled.

Watering in well to settle the roots

The first watering after planting is called the rooting water. The rooting water must be given generously and thoroughly. Because the newly planted soil has not fully settled, there are many air pockets in the soil, and only after thorough watering can the soil and roots fully bind together. Generally, after planting, water twice in succession; after the first watering drains down and water is seen flowing out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, water thoroughly once more. Only in this way can you ensure the soil absorbs enough water and binds closely with the roots.

When watering, most flowers are watered by spraying. This both increases air humidity and rinses dust from the leaf surface. However, for flowers with fuzzy leaves or those in bloom, you should not spray water; instead, set the pot in a basin of water and let water seep in through the drainage hole at the bottom to keep the potting soil moist.

In summer, potted flowers respire vigorously and require good air permeability in the potting soil. Therefore, when the potting soil is not dry, generally do not water, so that excess water does not affect aeration; but once it is dry, water immediately and water thoroughly. In summer, potting soil often cracks from becoming too dry, so watering cannot be done all at once; otherwise the water runs straight down through the cracks to the bottom of the pot while most of the potting soil remains very dry. After the first watering, wait a moment, and once the soil cracks have closed, water again.

If you forget to water for several days and the plant becomes drought-stressed and wilted, do not rush to pour a large amount of water. First move the potted flower to a cool, ventilated place, and use a spray bottle to mist the leaves 2 to 3 times. After the leaves recover, water a small amount, and once the roots have regained their water-absorbing function, water thoroughly. Water with caution in midsummer and deep winter

Water temperature has a direct effect on the physiological activity of flower roots. If the water temperature differs greatly from the soil temperature (more than 5°C), watering will cause a sudden change in soil temperature that damages the roots, which in turn affects the roots' absorption of water and causes physiological drought. Therefore, it is better to water when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, and this is especially important in winter and summer. In winter, it is best to store the water indoors for a while first, or add a little warm water, raising the water temperature to 15 to 20°C before watering. In summer, avoid watering under the blazing sun and during the high heat at noon.

When to water flowers

When choosing a time to water, try to keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature. In general, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is within 5°C, watering flowers is relatively safe and will not damage the roots. As for the specific time of day to water, spring, summer, autumn and winter are all different.

In spring, autumn and winter, around 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. are suitable times to water flowers. At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high, and the leaf surface temperature of flowers can often reach around 40°C. Transpiration is strong, and water evaporates quickly as well, so the roots need to keep absorbing water to make up for the loss from leaf transpiration. If cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the potting soil, the sudden drop in soil temperature stimulates the root hairs with low temperature, which immediately hinders normal water absorption. At this point, because the flower body is unprepared and the leaf stomata have not closed, water supply and demand lose their balance, causing leaf cells to go from a turgid state to wilting, producing "physiological drought" in the plant, with scorched leaves and, in severe cases, death of the whole plant.

This phenomenon is especially obvious in herbaceous flowers; for example, geraniums, cypress vine and China aster most dread cold water at noon in hot weather. Therefore, never water flowers at noon in the heat of summer. By the same reasoning, in winter, when the temperature difference between morning and evening is large, you should of course water at noon when the soil temperature and air temperature are relatively close. Many flower growers are in the habit of watering in the evening, mistakenly thinking this is best, but in fact the opposite is true, especially in winter or indoors: if you water at night, moisture dissipates slowly, increasing the humidity of the potting soil and the air, which easily leads to disease infection and cold damage in flowers.

Watering at different developmental stages Seedling stage

The potting soil should be on the dry side. As the saying goes, "Dry roots grow, wet leaves grow." Slightly dry soil makes it easier to grow roots and strong seedlings. Too much water will cause the seedlings to grow leggy.

Vegetative growth stage

Only with sufficient watering can the branches and leaves flourish; otherwise the plant grows slowly. But you also must not blindly water too much, causing waterlogging in the potting soil and root rot. The general watering principle is to water when the potting soil is dry and stop when it is wet, alternating dry and wet, with the aim of keeping the soil just below the surface moist. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean the potting soil has no moisture at all. The saying "water thoroughly only when completely dry, until water is seen flowing from the bottom hole" is unscientific. Because once the soil is completely dry, cracks form between the pot and the soil, and when you water, the water quickly runs off in large amounts through the cracks, so it clearly cannot be watered thoroughly. In this situation, loosen the soil first and then water, or simply use the soaking method to supply water.

Reproductive growth stage

When flowers transition from vegetative growth to flower bud differentiation, if there is too much water or too much nitrogen fertilizer, already-formed flower buds can turn back into leaf buds. Therefore, during flower bud differentiation you can use water withholding (controlled watering) to suppress leggy growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud formation. For example, for bougainvillea, plum blossom, ornamental peach and magnolia, withhold water 2 to 3 times respectively in June to July, and water again once the shoot tips and leaves wilt; this can effectively increase the flowering rate.

Flowering and fruit-setting stage

Once flowers enter the stage of bud formation, flowering and fruiting, water consumption is greatest. Water must not be in short supply, and the shoot tips and leaves must not be allowed to wilt; otherwise the flowering period shortens and flowering is poor. But it should not be too much either, especially not waterlogged; long-term waterlogging can cause flower and fruit drop.

The above are general rules. The number of waterings should also be flexibly adjusted according to the local climate and environmental conditions at the time, such as air humidity, the material and size of the pot, and the condition of the potting soil.