Grow Clivias Well by Building a Strong Foundation: Seedling Cultivation Methods for Clivias
When doing anything, you should lay a solid foundation, and the same goes for growing flowers. Take the clivia as an example: if you want it to bloom and look beautiful, you must put in some effort, and you should start cultivating it properly from the seedling stage.
When doing anything, you should lay a solid foundation, and the same goes for growing flowers. Take the clivia as an example: if you want it to bloom and look beautiful, you must put in some effort, and you should start cultivating it properly from the seedling stage. So what are the methods for growing clivia seedlings? Next, let the editor of Yiqizhuangxiu.com briefly introduce them to everyone!
Grow Clivias Well by Building a Strong Foundation: Seedling Cultivation Methods for Clivias
1. Temperature
Slightly higher than for mature clivias is appropriate. 15-30 degrees is optimal.
2. Environmental humidity requirements
Not very high; normal household humidity is sufficient.
3. Light
Do not expose to direct sunlight; shade is needed. Just place it on a south-facing windowsill in a spot that does not get direct sun. Observe frequently for the watering cycle; avoid water accumulating at the bottom of the pot or the potting soil drying out completely. When a handful of potting soil pressed into a ball crumbles as soon as it is touched, that is the sign that it is time to water. (For clivia seedlings, the best method is to use a spray bottle to spray-irrigate. Point the nozzle upward and spray onto the leaves. The advantage of doing this is that, besides achieving the purpose of watering, it can also wash off dust, while leaving mist droplets on the leaf surface to ensure a certain degree of humidity on the leaf surface. In sunlight, water evaporation can lower the leaf surface temperature and prevent sunscald.)
4. Soil
The potting soil should not be too coarse or too fine. Since there is only 1 root, too coarse potting soil makes it easy for the seedling to fall over, and at the same time too much aeration can easily damage the seedling's roots. It also should not be too fine, or it will fail to achieve drainage and aeration and can easily cause root rot. After the 1-leaf seedling's leaf has fully grown, hardening off can be carried out by increasing the watering interval so that the potting soil is slightly drier than usual (but must not dry out completely). In winter, the seedling can also be placed in a cooler environment (never below 5 degrees) for a period of time. This can strengthen the seedling's stress resistance. It will grow more healthily.
5. Fertilization
Seedlings do not need base fertilizer, nor do they need liquid fertilizer topdressing. Foliar fertilizer can be applied appropriately, but the fertilizer must be dilute. Once the seedlings have 2 or more leaves, managing them is basically no different from managing large plants.
How to Manage Clivias During the Seedling Stage
In the seedling-stage management of clivias, special attention should be paid to the following aspects:
(1) Temperature must be well controlled: As the saying goes, low temperatures grow strong seedlings. The suitable temperature range during the seedling stage is 18~20 degrees. Although too high a temperature causes rapid growth, the leaves will grow both thin and long.
(2) Moisture must be well controlled: The first and second waterings must be thorough. When the second leaf is about to emerge, the seedlings should undergo a stress-resistance hardening, that is, by withholding water appropriately, carrying out 'root-setting of seedlings'.
(3) Timely topdressing: Do not fertilize before the seed attached to the young seedling has shriveled. After the seed shrivels, apply liquid fertilizer once a week (such as fermented cake water), and after fertilizing, water thoroughly once.
(4) Adjust pH: If the soil is alkaline, irrigate with ferrous sulfate solution (black alum water).
Clivias can be divided into pots 80~90 days after sowing. The potting soil for dividing can use 30% river sand and 70% leaf mold mixed evenly with a stick. Put the potting soil loosely into a pot with a diameter of about 10 cm, poke a small hole, and gently insert the seedling's fleshy root, with the depth such that the root base is buried and the seed is exposed. Make the first leaf face one direction. After planting, moisture must be strictly controlled, and normal watering can resume after the seedlings have recovered.
Essential Knowledge for Home Flower Growing | The Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing Knowledge
Essential Knowledge for Home Flower Growing | The Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing KnowledgeI. Benefits of Home Flower Growing
1. Adds interest to life, makes life more vibrant, benefits physical and mental health, cultivates noble sentiment, and inspires a love for life. Meeting friends through flowers brings great joy.
Flower-viewing seasons -- admire flowers in spring, admire fragrance in summer, admire fruit in autumn, admire greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing taste -- tea appreciation is best, conversation appreciation is second, wine appreciation is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards -- color, fragrance, posture, charm.
2. Improves the living environment and implements green environmental protection.
(1) Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90 g of carbon dioxide and releases 60 g of oxygen per day.
(2) Absorbs harmful gases
Absorbs formaldehyde -- snake plant, dayflower, ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorbs benzene -- ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorbs chlorine -- Milan, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm.
(3) The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and clove can kill protists in 5 minutes.
(4) Regulates temperature
In urban green areas, green plants can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8 degrees C, shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours, and vertical wall greening can lower wall surface temperature by 5 degrees C.
II. Home Flower Growing Methods and Commonly Used Plants
1. Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combine ornamental value with practical value; fully develop three-dimensional space, with seasonal landscape changes bringing a fresh feeling.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
(1) Small trees:
Sweet osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, redbud, cherry blossom, crabapple, clove, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
(2) Shrubs:
Gardenia, serissa, pyracantha, nandina, wintersweet, Chinese rose, tree peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, daphne, hydrangea, hypericum, etc.
(3) Herbaceous plants:
Banana plant, inch plant, saxifrage, liriope
Iris, daylily, Chinese peony, hosta, torch lily, New York aster, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, zephyr lily, rain lily, canna, red-flowered oxalis, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermuda grass, stringy stonecrop, scallion, kalimeris, edible chrysanthemum.
Lotus, water lily, iris.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(4) Vines:
Bank's rose, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwifruit, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
2. Balcony and indoor flower growing
Adapt to the characteristics of pot culture and select suitable varieties for planting. Master soil, fertilizer, and water management to ensure safe overwintering and summering. Take measures separately according to plant traits, so they grow luxuriantly in all four seasons, and seasonal flowers match the occasion. Arrange the room exquisitely, improve floral art skills, and regulate the joy of life.
Plants suitable for balcony and indoor planting:
(1) Foliage plants:
Spider plant, ivy, inch plant, arrowhead vine, periwinkle.
Rubber tree, small sago palm, broadleaf lady palm, areca palm, pygmy date palm, asparagus fern, croton, red-back eupatorium, monstera, philodendron, bamboo fern
Bromeliads, marantas, ferns, umbrella plant
Pothos, philodendron, ti plant, Brazilian ironwood, Chinese evergreen, lucky bamboo, Malabar chestnut (money tree),
Caladium, begonia, etc.
(2) Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted redbud, daphne, jasmine, Milan, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chinese hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, red-flowered oxalis, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, ranunculus.
Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, gerbera, wax begonia, petunia, nasturtium, pelargonium, fuchsia, glass balsam (Impatiens holstii), New Guinea impatiens.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(3) Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, four-season mandarin.
Pyracantha, goji, small pomegranate.
Winter coral, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
(4) Cacti and succulents
Cactus, globular cactus, Christmas cactus, crab claw cactus, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus
Agave, snake plant, ponytail palm (Agavaceae)
Lampranthus, rainbow bush, conophytum, living stones (Aizoaceae)
Aeonium, echeveria, jade plant, kalanchoe, bryophyllum, kalanchoe, stringy stonecrop (Crassulaceae)
Aloe, haworthia, peperomia (Liliaceae)
Crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae)
Elephant bush (Portulacaceae)
(5) Vines and woody climbers
Honeysuckle, grape
Morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (spiny bitter gourd).
III. Home Flower Growing Management
Six essentials of flower growing: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1. Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It is not only the support that fixes the plant root system for growth and development, but also must provide the necessary nutrients, water, and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements
Fertile, harmless, loose, aerated, water-retentive, fertilizer-retentive.
(2) Potting soil materials
For home flower growing, potting soil materials include not only ordinary soil but also some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore, the meaning of potting soil is not limited to earth, so these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrates or media in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinder, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice hull, rice hull ash, wood shavings, charcoal, grass clippings, tree bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity
The pH of soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Camellia, azalea, orchid, bromeliad and other flowers require a more acidic soil environment. They usually require a pH value of about 5-6. Therefore, the cultivation of these flowers must use mountain soil with more humus (orchid soil) to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, pyracantha, pomegranate, grape, and kiwifruit have a broad adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment with pH 6-8.
For strongly alkaline soil, sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. Usually the application rate of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil. For overly acidic soil, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application rate of 35-70 grams per square meter of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for courtyard flower planting, various construction debris within 40 cm of the soil surface must be cleared away. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a pit depth of 60-80 cm. For greening land with heavy clay soil, coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material should be added to facilitate drainage and increase the aeration degree and organic matter content of the soil layer.
For the preparation of potting soil, according to the requirements of the plants being grown, attention should be paid to the soil's aeration, fertility, and suitable soil acidity. Usually, fertile garden soil (heated soil) plus rice hull ash is made into a cultivation substrate in a ratio of 2-3:1. However, for flower growing in cities, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. Then urban household waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones, shrimp shells, etc. can be collected. After being cut fine and crushed, add rice-washing water, place in an old jar or plastic bag, and after a relatively long period of fermentation and decomposition, dry in the sun, sieve, and mix with part of raw soil (soil excavated from roads and infrastructure) to prepare potting nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, piled and composted, and reused.
Strict potting soil quality requires disinfection. For home flower growing, a simple sunlight disinfection method can be used, that is, in summer, spread the soil evenly on a concrete slab, cover with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days. This can kill a large number of pathogenic spores, mycelium, insect eggs, and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2. Fertilization
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the required nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount is what enables flowers to grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and bloom beautifully.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth
Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water)
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer -- fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excreta after processing, fermentation, and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients decompose gradually. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect lasts a long time, and it can also improve the soil, which is beneficial to root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers, and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer) -- fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, cleanliness and sanitation, but its nutrient composition is single, and long-term use easily makes the soil compact. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as compound fertilizers processed and blended to contain the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting -- use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. for composting. To prevent odor from escaping, cover with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation -- use small-mouthed waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and blended oil bottles as containers, pour in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells and other animal scraps, and after fermentation and decomposition, make high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Bad yellow soybeans can also be soaked and fermented. When preparing bottled organic fertilizer, note: 1. The amount of fish scraps added should be about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity, and add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
1. To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter blended oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut fine before being put in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and air-dried old orange peel can also be used.
3. After preparation, after the bottle cap is tightened, it must be backed off another 2-3 threads to leave an air gap. Otherwise, due to fermentation inside the bottle and gas expansion, the cap may be blown off, causing the unbearable consequence of odor spreading everywhere.
4. Bottled organic fertilizer needs 4-5 months to ferment in summer, and generally about one year to decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean shells -- green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium nutrient elements, are easy to collect in cities, and are clean and sanitary. During preparation, the bean pods can be dried in the sun, crushed, and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potting culture soil, or used as base fertilizer when repotting potted flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilization
1. Base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer -- mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long fertilizer effect. It is used for the entire annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the flower pot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried livestock and poultry manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after small mill sesame oil extraction can be used and has a good fertilizer effect. Some also use fried or boiled soybeans placed in the middle and lower layers of the flower pot as supplementary base fertilizer.
Topdressing -- use inorganic fertilizer that takes effect quickly and can be quickly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizer, and add it when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization -- also called root-outside topdressing. After dissolving chemical fertilizer in water, spray it on the plants so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the back of the leaves. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick effect. When applying, note: control the chemical fertilizer concentration at 0.1-0.2%; too concentrated will cause harm to plants; for flowers grown on balconies and outdoors, the time for spraying fertilizer should be in the evening, to prevent the fertilizer concentration from increasing after application due to strong sunlight exposure and causing fertilizer damage. When spraying, pay attention to the back side of the leaves.
2. Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable timing, suitable condition, suitable amount; apply thin fertilizer frequently.
Match the flower: for foliage plants, use more nitrogen fertilizer; for fruit and flowering plants, use more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Match the timing: when shoots and leaves are sprouting, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Match the condition: "four more, four less, four none."
More for yellow, thin plants; more before sprouting; more before budding; more after flowering. Less for fat, strong plants; less when sprouting; less when flowering; less in the rainy season. None for newly planted; none for leggy growth; none for diseased or weak plants; none in midsummer.
Match the amount: thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer use a 0.1-0.3% concentration.
Frequent application: once every 7-10 days during the growing season.
Three taboos of fertilizing: avoid concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer causes cell sap to seep out and the plant dies.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and topdressing harms the roots.
Avoid sitting on fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a flower pot, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Do not let the roots sit directly on the fertilizer.
3. Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be replenished to keep the soil moist; in rainy seasons, drainage must be paid attention to, to prevent the roots from suffocating and dying due to waterlogging and lack of oxygen.
When watering, usually make sure the difference between water temperature and soil temperature does not exceed 5°C; in summer it is best to water in the early morning and evening, and in winter water around noon.
(2) Watering potted flowers
① Watering principle: dry-dry, wet-wet; do not water when not dry; water as soon as it looks dry; when watering, water thoroughly.
Dry-dry, wet-wet means making the soil alternately dry and wet. This not only ensures water supply for the flowers and trees, but also lets the pot soil breathe and protects root development.
The standard for dry is that the upper layer of pot soil is dry while the bottom soil still has some moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves show brief wilting at noon.
For flowering plants, the first sign of water shortage is wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be replenished immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means the amount of water should be enough that water seeps out from the bottom of the pot; half-way water, with the pot soil wet on top and dry below, is a major taboo in potted flower management, because it uses the moist appearance of the pot soil surface to cover up the essence of water shortage, causing root water shortage and death. Plants that have been cut off from water are very hard to revive even if watered to rescue them.
(3) More or less watering.
Herbaceous plants: more; woody plants: less. Moisture-loving flowers: more; drought-loving flowers: less.
Large, soft leaves: more; small, waxy leaves: less.
Vigorous growth period: more; dormant period: less.
Large seedlings in small pots: more; small seedlings in large pots: less.
Balcony: more; courtyard: less. Summer: more; winter: less. Clear and dry: more; cloudy: less.
Budding: more; flowering: less.
(4) Rescuing drought dehydration and waterlogged root rot
When woody plants suffer long-term drought and dehydration, the stems and leaves wilt, but the stems still have life. They should first be moved to a shaded place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Also spray water to maintain humidity in the aboveground environment. After watering the roots, do not continuously replenish water, to prevent root oxygen deficiency. According to the dry-dry, wet-wet principle, keep the soil breathing to promote new root growth and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, according to the aboveground growth condition, carry out appropriate pruning, which helps them sprout and leaf out again.
When prolonged rain causes water to accumulate in the pot soil and the plant suffers waterlogging damage, with branches and leaves wilting and losing vigor, the plant must immediately be removed from the pot together with the soil and placed in a cool, ventilated place to let the root soil moisture dissipate; after 3-5 days, when growth resumes, repot it. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can have their pots laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rainy weather, if it suddenly clears up with strong sunlight and the plant is exposed to the sun, because root growth has been damaged and branch and leaf transpiration is too strong, severe water loss and death can result. Therefore pay attention to strictly controlling water, moving the position, and shading for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, most should avoid overhead splashing. After the flowers and leaves of gloxinia, African violet, and others are splashed with water, the flowers and leaves will rot. But bromeliads require overhead watering so that the leaf cups store water to meet growth needs. Orchids, arrowroots, and similar flowers, besides appropriate watering, require spraying to raise the air humidity of the growing environment.
For indoor foliage plants, according to differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin, water requirements also differ greatly. Araceae plants such as monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and calla lily, as well as ferns and umbrella plant, belong to moisture-loving flowers; watering should follow "prefer wet over dry," but do not let water accumulate. Succulents such as snake plant, aloe, and sedum, and cacti are drought-loving flowers; watering should follow "prefer dry over wet," to prevent excessive water from causing root rot. Others such as asparagus fern, sago palm, and begonia, most plants, belong to intermediate-type flowers; both overly dry and overly wet soil cause adverse reactions, and watering can follow the principle of "alternately dry and wet."
4. Protecting flowers
Home flower growing must protect flowers safely through summer and winter, and must prevent and control diseases and insect pests.
(1) Over-summering and over-wintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. If the temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
① Safe over-summering
High summer temperatures and strong sunlight often make some temperate plants unable to adapt to the severe heat, and make some shade plants prone to sunburn. Therefore home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, spraying water, and adjusting the placement of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and bring the flowers safely through summer.
② Safe over-wintering
Frost damage and freezing damage in winter greatly affect flower growth, and some cold-intolerant flowers will die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growing period, and some flowers suffer damage to both leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and bud; if they are hit by a late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. In the Suzhou area, the first frost period generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore during this period, to prevent frost damage and low-temperature freezing damage below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by mounding soil or covering with plastic film. Balcony potted flowers can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall; in the evening when there is severe cold, the top and surrounding sides of the shed should also be covered with woven bags, burlap, or other coverings for warmth. Already
For balconies enclosed with glass, cold-intolerant plants such as Milan, hibiscus, Christmas cactus, Impatiens walleriana, and croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through winter. To increase the cold resistance of winter flowers and trees, watering should be restrained in management, but water still needs to be replenished in good time as conditions require; due to careless management, home flower growing in winter often also suffers deaths from drying out.
(2) Disease and insect pest control
For disease and insect pest control in home flower growing, the principle of "prevention first" should be grasped. Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning work, so that flowers and trees grow vigorously and strengthen their own ability to resist diseases and insect pests, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of diseases and pests.
① Insect pests
Pests have two types according to feeding method.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits; the damaged parts show notches, holes, and even cavities. Such as cabbage caterpillars, slug moths, longhorn beetles, and grubs (scarab beetle larvae).
Use stomach poisons and contact-killing pesticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, and phoxim.
Sucking pests:
Pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck sap. Such as aphids, scale insects, and red spiders (mites).
The damaged stems and leaves show spots, shriveling, discoloration, and other symptoms.
Use contact-type and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate and propargite.
③ Diseases
The pathogens of plant diseases are mainly of three types.
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal infection; mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the surface of the host.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scabs, rot, and wilting.
Main pesticides used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and chlorothalonil.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria; leaves show water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions, and are limited by leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, sticky and slippery, with a foul odor. In diseased stems showing wilting, a cross-section shows browning of the vascular bundles.
Main pesticides used include: jinggangmycin, agricultural streptomycin, and others.
5. Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering, and fruiting; pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions, and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Common methods in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal, and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on herbaceous flower seedlings; after the main stem of a herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds, increase branching, and achieve the goals of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and more flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, marigolds, and others.
(2) Branch pruning. There are two pruning methods. One is removing branches from the base, called thinning. Thinning is cutting out overly dense branches and crossing branches, leggy branches, weak slender branches, diseased and insect-damaged branches, and dead branches, which helps ventilation and light penetration in the tree body and enhances plant vigor. The other method is cutting branches shorter, called heading back. Heading back can promote the sprouting of lateral buds on the branch, adjust growth vigor, and benefit flowering and fruiting. In winter, leaving rose branches about 20-30 cm and heading them back can control plant height and make spring flowering abundant and uniform. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote lateral branch sprouting and form flowering branches for the next year. The growth habits of various flowers and trees differ; some branches form flower buds from terminal buds, and some form flower buds from lateral buds, so heading back should also adopt correspondingly different methods.
(3) Bud removal. During the growing period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear; if allowed to grow, they consume nutrients, disturb the tree shape, and affect ventilation and light penetration, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the rootstock part are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal. For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, and calla lily, some old leaves should be removed in good time to promote new leaves. After jasmine is brought outdoors in spring, removing old leaves can promote many new shoots and new leaves, vigorous growth, and more flower buds.
6. Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating new plants and new seedlings yourself adds more pleasure to growing flowers. Common methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering, and grafting.
(1) Sowing
Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry, low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life; for home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and placed in the refrigerator crisper.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid to late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring.
After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed.
Seed germination requires temperature, moisture, and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination; the sowing bed soil must not become compacted and must not accumulate water, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After seedlings emerge, once they have 2-4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This uses the regenerative capacity of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves, and buds after they leave the parent plant to cultivate new plants.
The soil (medium) used for cuttings must be loose, breathable, and harmless; for home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite, and vermiculite can be used.
For woody plants propagated by stem cuttings, choose fully grown current-year branches, take material 10-15 cm long with 3-4 buds, and insert 5-6 cm into the soil. The cut at the lower end of the cutting should be at a node. Dormant branch cuttings are made 10-15 days before sprouting. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be made throughout the growing period after the new shoots mature. But the aboveground leaves should be appropriately trimmed off to reduce transpiration and help rooting.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, choose fully developed tender stems; wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens walleriana, Impatiens hawkeri, salvia, and marigold all root easily.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use flower pots as cutting beds; place tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage, always keep the soil moist, and keep the cutting pot out of direct sunlight. If you can frequently mist to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in the sun; rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb separation
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, broadleaf lady palm, umbrella plant, wintersweet, and tree peony, after growing for several years, have enlarged clumps; in early spring or autumn, the clump can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should carry as many roots as possible, and the area of the cut wounds should be reduced.
Bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, narcissus, gladiolus, and red woodsorrel can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia, and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without detaching them from the parent plant, prompting the middle stem nodes of the buried branch portion to root. Usually layering is carried out in March-April; the buried portion needs to be notched or ring-barked, so that callus tissue at the wound site produces new roots; in autumn, cut below the rooted portion to grow a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, choose a branch about 0.5-1.0 cm in diameter, carry out ring-barking, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5 cm. On the outside use a bamboo tube or plastic bag, filled with breathable, moisture-retaining material, to promote rooting at the ring-barked part; this is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted)
The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting materials, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. Common methods include two types: branch grafting and bud grafting.
IV. Home floral art
1. Flower arranging
Flower arranging uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower configuration in arranging, generally the following key points should be grasped.
(1) High and low stagger. The positions of the flower branches should be staggered front and back, high and low; never in the same straight line or the same plane.
(2) Proper spacing. Do not arrange flower branches or leaves at equal distances; there should be sparseness and density.
(3) Combination of solid and void. Flowers are solid, leaves are void; with both flowers and leaves, flowers as the main body and leaves as accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath can also be used as accompaniment to give the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Mutual response from above and below. The flower branches above, below, left, and right should echo one another around the main flower branch, keeping the branches as a whole and balanced.
(5) Light on top, heavy below. When combining flower branches, buds on top and full blooms below; light-colored flowers on top and dark-colored flowers below; small flowers with posture on top and large, spherical flowers below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Scattered above, gathered below. When combining many flower branches, the upper flowers can be scattered and the lower flowers should be gathered.
European-style flower arranging forms rich floral geometric patterns, with brilliant, vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arranging often favors elegant, plain and clean branches, advocates nature, is simple and refined, and is rich in profound meaning.
2. Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, rocks, and other materials, and through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the spirit of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting."
(1) Tree stump bonsai
Tree stump shaping should show vigor and antique simplicity; the techniques to grasp are:
Below, the roots should be exposed - make the roots below the tree exposed above the soil.
In the middle, there should be wrinkles - make the trunk curved and avoid straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
Above, there should be clouds - the crown and foliage should be lush like clouds.
When planting two plants together in a pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one carrying a young one; the old tree amiable and affectionate, the young tree graceful and charming, like people standing together and looking at each other. For three or more plants, the greatest taboo is that the roots and tops are all uniform, shaped like a bundle of firewood; they must yield to each other left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai
With rocks as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural mountains and waters. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak suggests Mount Tai's thousand fathoms, one spoon suggests rivers and lakes ten thousand li." Its value lies in showing the large within the small and being fascinating.
Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near things large and far things small, and near things solid and far things void, to make the scenery majestic and profound. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, there are three types of landscape bonsai layout, namely:
① High distance - looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
Rocks should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 20-25:1.
It is often mainly a single block of rock, or a slightly lower accompanying scene placed near the main body to set off the main scenery.
③ Deep distance - peering at the rocks from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
The rock generally occupies about 5/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 15:1.
The mountain group is arranged in a zigzag vertical line, jagged and interlocking, solid in front and empty behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem partly exposed and partly hidden, faintly visible, giving the scene depth and distance.
④ Flat-distance perspective - viewing the distance from a nearby mountain is called flat-distance perspective.
In the flat-distance perspective layout, the panorama is mostly water, with mountains as low flat ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few ravines, arranged in scattered, winding order.
The rock base sits about 3/10 on the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot height is 6:1.
In landscape bonsai, blank space must be handled well; blank space represents the water surface, so that water surrounds the mountains and the mountains are brought to life by the water; the mountains are solid and the water is empty: they complement each other. Generally, to show a broad water surface, the blank space occupies more than about 2/3. To show mountains as the main subject, the blank space may occupy 1/3.
Landscape bonsai can be embellished with figures, birds and animals, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats, and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. Scenery can be arranged according to the size scale of "a zhang for mountains, a chi for trees, a cun for horses, a fen for people."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a growing medium. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home; its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to maintain, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant roots.
The flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite wide-ranging, including aquatic plants, hygrophytes, mesophytes, and a group of plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen so they can be placed on a desk or table. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth, Nuphar japonica, Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant, English ivy, narcissus, hyacinth, amaryllis, tulip, nasturtium, Calathea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aucuba japonica, bromeliads, and so on.
Hydroponic containers can use many kinds of transparent glassware; for simple home cultivation, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass balls in the container can both fix the roots and add color to the growing vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution is: for every 1000 g of water, add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. For bulbous flowers and short-term hydroponic foliage plants, when chemical raw materials are not easy to buy, clean water can also be used for hydroponic growing.
The water used for hydroponics needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water spoilage and increase the oxygen in the water. When growing in a bottle, the water level should not be too high; it is best to let part of the root base be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen uptake.
4. Bottle planting
Use glass bottles, goldfish bowls, and other glass containers to grow flowers, making a "bottle landscape" or "glass garden."
Plants more suitable for bottle planting often include ferns, spider plant, Tradescantia zebrina, begonia, Cordyline, small-leaved English ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus plants, and succulents. When planting, several compatible plants are often used to create a bottle landscape; the bottle top can be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal bits, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as a substrate, then plant the flowers. Outside the glass bottle, one can watch a miniature garden grow, full of lingering charm and uniquely styled.
5. Combined potted planting
Combined potted planting uses multiple ornamental plants, using artistic arrangement techniques, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can be planted with a combination of 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, attention should be paid to the following.
(1) The plant traits of the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant should be grouped separately for easy management.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This allows the combined group to create a sense of beauty in color, form, posture, and charm.
(3) The container should harmonize with the grouped plants. The texture, size, color, and shape of the container all affect the style of the potted planting.
(4) In potted combinations, the main plant should first be determined. Generally, the main landscape plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, and then some companion plants should be arranged. Gaps may also be left and decorated with some pebbles or shells. At the edge of the container, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, the combined plants can be treated differently by taking them out of their pots or planting them in their original pots.
V. Common misunderstandings in growing flowers
Misunderstanding one: watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more “drink” is not always better. You can water once every morning, and in the evening properly supplement according to the dryness of the pot soil; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, judged by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of water must be controlled; if the flowers “drink” too much, it is very easy to cause root rot. These flowers also cannot withstand intense sun, so when it is relatively dry at noon, you can spray some water on the leaves. For some relatively drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents in the Crassulaceae family, less “drinking” is needed; too much water easily causes root rot.
Misunderstanding two: placing them indoors
In summer the sunlight is strong, so some simply move the flowers indoors. But they will grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but at noon they still need proper shading. If they are neutral, then proper shading is needed. If they are balcony potted flowers, they can be moved indoors between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. each day. If they are shade-loving, then contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Misunderstanding three: fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it and instead the roots are damaged. Of course, flowers that generally bloom in summer are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, and a moderate amount of extra fertilizer can be applied, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, impatiens, cockscomb, dahlia, and so on; fertilizer can be supplemented during the flowering period to make them thrive with lush branches and leaves. For some fruit-viewing flowers such as kumquat and ornamental pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
VI. Common poisonous ornamental flowers
Oleander
It blooms in spring, summer, and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be enjoyed and used medicinally, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves, and even flowers are all poisonous, and if its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce mental acuity. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if swallowed by mistake.
Poinsettia
The whole plant is poisonous, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems or leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus
Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin, and eating it by mistake can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and special care should be taken not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy
The whole plant is poisonous and contains toxic alkaloids; especially the fruit is the most toxic. If eaten by mistake, it can cause central nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily
The flower is poisonous and contains large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc. Eating it by mistake can cause symptoms of poisoning such as coma.
Lantana
Both flowers and leaves are poisonous. Eating them by mistake can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura
Also known as belladonna flower, it is common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River, and children who eat it by mistake will be poisoned.
Night-blooming cestrum
At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, place night-blooming cestrum indoors during the day, and move it outdoors in the evening.
Tulip
The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If humans and animals stay among these flowers for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and develop symptoms of poisoning; in severe cases, it can also cause hair loss. It is not suitable for growing at home.
Lycoris
It contains lycorine alkaloids, and the whole plant is poisonous. If eaten by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, it can also cause speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron
The plants and flowers of yellow rhododendrons contain toxins, and eating them by mistake causes poisoning; the flowers of white rhododendrons contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins, and after poisoning people will experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc.; severe cases can cause shock and seriously harm human health.
Bauhinia
If people come into contact with the pollen it releases for too long, it can trigger asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Larkspur
Also known as radish flower, the whole plant is poisonous, and the seeds are even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. If eaten by mistake, it causes nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases spasms and respiratory failure leading to death.
Nandina
It stands gracefully, yet the whole plant is poisonous, mainly containing nantenine, nandinoside, etc. After eating it by mistake, it easily causes symptoms of poisoning such as whole-body twitching, spasms, and coma.
Mimosa
It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin can cause sparse eyebrows, yellowing hair, and even hair loss. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. After eating them by mistake, they cause pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and gastrointestinal tract; in severe cases, they damage the vocal cords and make a person mute.
Wisteria
Its seeds, stems, and bark are all poisonous, and the seeds contain cytisine. After eating them by mistake, they cause vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, they also cause bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose
The rich fragrance it gives off can suddenly make some people feel chest tightness and discomfort and difficulty breathing after smelling it.
Lily
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can overexcite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus plants
The spines contain toxic sap. After the human body is pricked, it causes allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain, and itching, leading to general discomfort and restlessness.
Pine and cypress
The fragrant odor released by these flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human gastrointestinal tract. If smelled for too long, it not only affects appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel upset, nauseous, and dizzy.
Orchid
If the fragrance it gives off is smelled for too long, it can make people overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea
If people come into contact with the particles it releases, it can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Beautiful flowers and ornamental plants such as crown-of-thorns, impatiens, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Codiaeum variegatum, Euphorbia antiquorum, and Euphorbia neriifolia. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal cancer and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have fragrances that are too strong, such as night-blooming cestrum and lantana. Being surrounded by this odor for a long time makes it hard for people to bear. Even for famously fragrant flowers such as narcissus and roses, they may at first feel fragrant and pleasant, but after a long time, especially during sleep, breathing in these scents will make them hard to bear……
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, opium poppy, oleander, and Zhuangyuanhong, which give off toxic odors, and frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flowers and plants that have medicinal effects on people, when kept day and night in close contact with healthy people, are also bad for health.
Roberts herb, according to botanists' measurements, contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb-cane enzyme). Its stem and leaf sap, when it touches the skin, is strongly irritating. If an infant bites it by mistake, it will cause throat edema due to strong irritation of the oral mucosa, and may even paralyze the vocal cords and cause loss of voice. Therefore, people commonly call Roberts herb “dumb cane,” and there is a saying, “the flower is nice to look at, but the poison is hard to bear.”
VII. Simple homemade flower pesticides
The following introduces some pesticides that both prevent insects and treat diseases, do not pollute the environment, and are easy to obtain and simple to use. Everyone may as well give them a try.
I. Pest control In home flower growing, common pests include aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, thrips, leafhoppers, lace bugs, ants, red spider mites, and so on.
(1) Ginkgo Crush the fruit in a mortar, add an equal amount of water, and filter to obtain the stock solution. When using, take the stock solution and dilute it with water at a volume ratio of 1:2 and spray, which can control aphids. (2) Oriental arborvitae Wash the cypress fruit, crush it, and soak it in water at a weight ratio of 1:5 for 24 hours. Take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control leafhoppers. (3) Peach Take peach leaves and add water at a weight ratio of 1:6, boil for 30 minutes, take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control aphids and other mollusks. (4) Tung tree Cut old leaves into pieces and add water at a weight ratio of 1:3-5; or use fruit peel and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, both soaked for 24 hours. The filtrate can control aphids. (5) Chinese pulsatilla Wash the plant, cut it into pieces, crush it, and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 23 hours, or boil for half an hour. The filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (6) Japanese false bindweed Wash the stems, cut them into pieces, crush them, and add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours. The filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (7) Sun spurge Cut the stems and leaves into pieces, crush them, and add water at a weight ratio of 1:4, boil for 1-2 hours, take the filtrate and spray, which can control aphids and red spider mites. (8) Mint Cut the mint into pieces, crush it, and add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours. The filtrate can control leafhoppers and lace bugs. (9) Chili pepper Add water to chili peppers at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil for half an hour, take the filtrate and spray, which can control aphids and stink bugs. (10) Tobacco Take tobacco leaves and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, or boil for 1 hour, and take the filtrate to soak through the pot soil, which can kill ants in the pot; or take the filtrate, dilute it with an equal amount of water, and add a little soap, which can control aphids, red spider mites, thrips, and leafhoppers. (11) Sichuan pepper Add water to Sichuan pepper at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil it down to 5 parts stock solution, then dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:10 and spray, which can control whiteflies and aphids.
II. Disease control In home flower growing, common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, rot, leaf spot, and damping-off, and so on.
(1) Masson pine Take pine needles, and at a weight ratio of 1:2-3, add water and boil for 2 hours to make them slightly gelatinous; take the filtrate and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:1, which can control root rot. (2) Rose of Sharon Take rose of Sharon flowers and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours. The filtrate can control root rot and damping-off. (3) Ginger Crush ginger and squeeze the juice, then take the juice and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:20 and spray, which can control rot. (4) Chives Crush chives and add water at a weight ratio of 1.6:10, then stir evenly and take the filtrate to spray, which can control rust and also control aphids. (5) Scallion Crush scallions and add water at a weight ratio of 2:1.5, filter and spray, which can control powdery mildew and also control aphids. (6) Garlic Crush garlic and add water at a weight ratio of 1:1, stir evenly, then take the juice, dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:3 and spray, which can control powdery mildew, gray mold, and root rot, and also control aphids, red spider mites, and other mollusks.
III. Others
(1) Baking soda Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has the effect of inhibiting fungal growth. Spraying with a 0.1%-0.2% baking soda solution can control powdery mildew. (2) Plant ash Take plant ash and add water at a weight ratio of 3:10, soak for 49 hours, and after clarifying, spray it on the plants, which can control aphids, gray mold, and so on. (3) Mosquito coil Light a mosquito coil containing pyrethrins and place it in the flower pot, then seal the pot with a plastic cover and fumigate for 50 minutes to 60 minutes, which can kill red spider mites. (4) Essential balm Spray with essential balm diluted 600 times to 800 times, which can control aphids, scale insects, red spider mites, and so on. (5) Laundry detergent Add water to laundry detergent at a weight ratio of 1:150, stir evenly, and spray once every 5 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays, which can control aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies, and so on. (6) Potassium permanganate Use a 0.02%-0.03% potassium permanganate aqueous solution and spray once every 2 days to 3 days; for severe cases, spray twice, which can control powdery mildew.