How to grow German iris? Remember these planting tips

German iris is a variety of iris, with large flowers and bright colors. It can be planted together with other flowers for a better ornamental effect. So what are the cultivation tips for German iris? Next, let the editor of Yiqizhuangxiu.com briefly introduce them to you!

German iris cultivation methods: remember these tips

  German iris cultivation methods

Soil: German iris is not strict about soil pH and can grow normally in soil with a pH of 6~8, but it grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soil (pH 7.0~7.2). In acidic soil, an appropriate amount of lime powder can be added to adjust the soil to neutral; in strongly alkaline soil, an appropriate amount of humic acid soil can be added to adjust the growing soil to slightly alkaline or neutral.

Watering: In dry spring areas, the soil should be kept moderately moist from sprouting and growth to the flowering stage to ensure the water needed for the rapid growth and development of flowers and leaves; after flowering, special watering is not necessary, and in rainy seasons, drainage should be paid even more attention to avoid rot of the rhizomes.

Fertilizing: Apply topdressing twice during the growing period, once each in spring and autumn; the application rate is 60g/m2. In spring, mix 4 parts bone meal, 2 parts superphosphate, 1 part potassium sulfate, and 1 part ammonium sulfate as topdressing; in autumn, mix 4 parts bone meal, 2 parts superphosphate, and 1 part potassium sulfate as topdressing.

Propagation methods of German iris

German iris rarely sets seeds. Apart from the propagation techniques used in hybrid breeding research, production mostly uses rhizome division and tissue culture methods. The best time for division is within 1~2 weeks after flowering in spring or in early autumn. During the 2~3 weeks after the plants are divided and before rooting, watering must be controlled and the rainy season avoided as much as possible; otherwise, the wounds formed during division are very likely to allow pathogens to invade and cause rhizome rot. Newly divided clumps grow vigorously and bloom more in the first 2~3a.

German iris cultivation methods: remember these tips

Cultivation methods for several common flowers

Cultivation methods for several common flowers
1. Fringed iris
Fringed iris is a perennial herb in the Iridaceae family, Iris genus. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and is also found in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, shallow in the ground, spreading horizontally, and yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. There are 3 style branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like shapes, reflexed and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower color of this species is light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also for flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady and moist places, with strong adaptability and cold tolerance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2~3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, as it is beneficial for full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizomes and divide them, and replant each section with 1~2 buds. For seed propagation, germination occurs 4~6 weeks after sowing, and flowering can only occur 2~3 years after sowing.
Cultivation and pests/diseases: Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. After planting, press the rhizomes firmly. Shallow planting is suitable, not deep planting. In early spring, remove dead leaves to help new buds sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently and fertilize 1~2 times a month to make flowers abundant and leaves lush. Keep the soil moist during flowering, but do not allow waterlogging; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizomes enter dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by larvae of the noctuid moth and can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate EC at 1000 times dilution; during the growing period, slugs and snails are also harmful, and 3% lime water can be sprayed in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around farmhouses improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes beautiful beyond description.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; in moist shady areas by walls, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as fringed iris) and begonia, which will grow well without intensive management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage can be planted, and sufficient sunlight will help them grow better; cacti and golden-edge lotus on the roof still grow well even without long-term care; where shade is needed, plant a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or hedge; even indoors, a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids can be placed on a desk or tea table, making the farm courtyard colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Asteraceae family. The whole plant is densely covered with soft hairs. The leaves are in whorls of three, triangular, and resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including blue flowers that are very rare indoors; and the flowering period is long, about 6 months, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and "May 1st" Labor Day. It is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering, so the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation must be mastered.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria prefers a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C~20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil should not be too dry or too wet. After seedlings wilt from being too dry, it is difficult for them to recover; if too wet, and the seedlings are in a high-temperature period, they are prone to damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of growing soil: Cineraria prefers sandy soil rich in humus and well-drained, with a pH of 6.5~7.5 being suitable. When preparing the growing soil for sowing, be careful to mix unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a 3:1:1 ratio, then sieve, and do not add any fertilizer. Growing soil prepared this way is beneficial for seed germination and growth. Overly clayey growing soil cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fine roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The growing soil after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the growing soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, wood ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand in a 3:2:2:1:1 ratio to prepare growing soil to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, fully stirred and mixed, and sieved before being used as growing soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria prefers a cool climate, avoids cold in winter, and avoids high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature around 15°C for good growth; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or make sowing beds under a shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., and avoid watering at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If too dry, cineraria leaves are often in a wilted state, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily causes yellowing leaves, and also easily produces red spider mites and aphids. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, roots, main stems, and leaves are prone to rot, and aphids are also easily produced; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichunhua and manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the Papaveraceae family, Papaver genus. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stems are slender, with weak branches. The leaves are alternate, irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrated edges. The whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the top of branches, with long pedicels; the buds nod, and when the flowers open they straighten up. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. Corn poppy flower colors are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, tricolor, and others. The flowers last only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are abundant and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, and the fruit ripening period is July. The seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-tolerant and suitable for the sufficient light and cool climate of spring, but cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed plots in early winter. It is not strict about soil, but loose fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the plastic film after emergence. Corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine and deep roots and few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, root length often exceeds plant height by about 1 times, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is very low. When drill-sown seedlings are relatively dense, thin them two or three times in stages, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy does not have high water and fertilizer requirements, but it avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January and moved out in late April for use as flowers for the "May 1st" holiday. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flowerpot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, level it, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds cannot be seen, and after sowing, soak the pot to moisten the water. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in growing soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh air, with nighttime temperatures not lower than 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging. It can bloom in March and last until "May 1st".
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also having the same habits. The difference is that opium poppy has a larger plant shape and fruit and is covered all over, while corn poppy is smaller and covered with sparse hairs all over. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with antitussive effects, and its milky sap has analgesic and antidiarrheal effects. On warm sunny spring days, patches of corn poppy in courtyards and green spaces compete to bloom, like red clouds and also like silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel light and buoyant.
4. Pocketbook plant
Pocketbook plant is a herbaceous plant in the Scrophulariaceae family, Calceolaria genus. Flower colors include yellow, purple, red, creamy white, orange-red, dark brown, and others, with colorful spots and markings on the flowers, very lovely, and often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Pocketbook plant is native to the Mexico and Chile area. It prefers cool and humid conditions and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity should be maintained, and ventilation should be noted; sufficient light is beneficial for plant flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Pocketbook plant prefers cool conditions, with an optimum growth temperature of about 10°C. If the stems and leaves grow luxuriantly during the growing period, while the potting soil is too wet and stuffy, the plant stems will rot. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work should be done even better, and shade should be provided at noon to help the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Pocketbook plant prefers a warm and humid environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Watering should not directly strike the plant; if water accumulates on leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. Fertilizing must not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Pocketbook plant is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, from August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high temperatures. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the soaking method, and then sow. Pocketbook plant seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder particles. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place in a cool place and keep the temperature at about 20°C; emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to about 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. When they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the growing soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and chicken cock amaranth, is named because the inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30~50 cm. The stem is upright, with the upper part flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and petiolate. The spike is terminal, with a flattened, fleshy rachis, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety sheen. The flowering period is July~October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 grams. Used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely child-mother cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb, and fern cockscomb. In addition, there are many varieties. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20~30 cm), medium-stem types (40~60 cm), and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering differences. Colors range from very pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange red to purple red, and there are also compound colors such as sprinkled gold and erqiao with mixed yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It prefers a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids clayey soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in the open field seedbed from March to April in spring. When sowing, do not cover with soil; cover with grass and water, keeping the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5~10 cm, plant them in the field or pot them. No fertilization is needed at the seedling stage; otherwise, side branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, apply thin fertilizer to promote growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so seed selection should be carefully carried out every year when saving seeds.
Cockscomb flowering time can be regulated by controlling the sowing period. Generally, sowing can be done from March to June, and sowing can be carried out according to flower use needs to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It prefers a warm and dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but is not strict about soil. It can generally be planted in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present, and people of insight may wish to try it.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, choose a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, slightly cover the seeds, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15~20°C, seedlings can emerge in 10~15 days. For summer sowing after Grain in Ear, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting, they must be watered. During the seedling stage, weeding and loosening the soil must be done, and when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply topdressing once. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately, and strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas during the rainy season. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients for the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, cotton geometrid moths are likely to occur, and spraying the leaves with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back in late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called zhijiacao, tougucao, jinfenghua, and sajinhua. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flowerpots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25~35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, and others, and the flower forms include single and double. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C~30°C. Sowing period: March~April or September~October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C~32°C. Flowering period: May~July and December~February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, among which temperature, light, water, growing medium, and other factors are included. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by season, but after emergence, the plants must be placed by a sunny window so they can receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Okay, now it is time to prepare for sowing. Please confirm again before sowing: whether the conditions required for seed germination and growth are currently available.
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that the surface of the flower seed can be covered with only a thin layer of soil at most, 1~3 times the diameter of the flower seed (be as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seed is buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the watering can to mist mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic paper to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a shaded place away from light, and remember to open it for 15~20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10~15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic paper), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it under all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it indicates that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, weak, and prone to lodging. The lighting time should be increased.
2. Turn the flowerpot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves of the plant receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and "move" the rest ~~ repot them.
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fine roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a pit of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flowerpot, let its root system spread fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, it is better to keep it somewhat dry, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4~6 minutes first to dissipate chlorine from tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-hole pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the edges and less near the plant, and trying not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root vegetable crop in the Liliaceae family. Its main edible part is the bulb. In addition to being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is suitable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient sunlight, deep soil, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7~6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best to be legumes or grasses. Rotation should be practiced, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Select good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30~50g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so healthy bulbs with no bottom leakage, no disease spots, and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and less disease. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If seed sources are insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu in August, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30~40 kg of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer per mu, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m, and the bed height is 20~30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging, then open furrows for planting. Apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, wood ash, tung oil cake, and other organic fertilizers at the bottom of the furrow, 1200~1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant. The seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30×20cm, the seed rate per mu is 125~150 kg, and the harvest amount one year after planting is 4~6 times the seed rate.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 600~800 times, rotating once every 7~10 days, and spray continuously 2~3 times.
Insect pest control: For underground pests, 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon can be mixed into toxic soil and evenly scattered into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7~10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested from July to August each year. Selecting a sunny day one week before the Start of Autumn for harvest gives the highest yield; harvesting after autumn when stems and leaves wither is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50g can all be kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It prefers a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light, is relatively cold-tolerant, but fears severe summer heat and high temperatures, and fears strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east-facing or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, not exposed to direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-tolerant, avoids high temperatures, prefers shady and humid environments and loose fertile neutral soil. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. By midsummer, stems and leaves turn yellow and wither, entering dormancy. Dormant in hot summers. Not drought-tolerant, prefers moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. Avoid direct sunlight. The flowering period is April~June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer, the stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and become dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is suitable to carry out in early spring in February after the buds sprout and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2~3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2~3 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in autumn, with a method similar to early spring division. Timing must be appropriate. If the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece having 3~5 buds, and replant. They can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and they can root in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are full in growth and development with relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7~10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each about 10~15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and thin out some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm×10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady place. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; it is enough to keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in about a month. The following spring, pot and plant with soil. With good management, it can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil. Absolutely avoid fertilizing. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30~40 days.
Post-cutting management:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-hole watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Build an arched shed over the bed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at about 25°C. When too high, ventilate appropriately to cool down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the shed film and straw curtains. The following spring, they can be transplanted and planted, and bloom in the same year.
Plants are divided in March~April. Cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place in a semi-shady place, and in the rainy season, pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizomes into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along the sections, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizomes into sections, each with a bud eye, insert into sand, and after rooting, plant in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then immediately broadcast them in the seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through winter. In the following spring, plant the robust seedlings in the field, with a plant and row spacing of 30~50 cm being suitable. Sown seedlings need 3 years to bloom.
Household propagation generally does not use this; garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Bleeding heart cultivation
For field planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deeply turn the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdressing can be combined with irrigation; in summer high temperatures, when stems and leaves wither and enter dormancy, the dead branches can be cut off, and watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent is beneficial for cold protection. For potting, use fertilized lightweight growing soil in the pot, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny place for care; during the growing period, provide sufficient fertilizer and water. During the flowering period, move it less to avoid flower drop affecting ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Bleeding heart management
Bleeding heart is cold-tolerant and shade-loving, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, it should be watered once a week. During the flower bud formation period, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1~2 times. Do not water too much; keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, apply mature urine diluted 5 times with water once every 2~3 weeks. If directly sown in flower beds, thin the seedlings when there are 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply mature urine diluted 3 times with water once again and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruit, dry it in the sun, thresh, and collect the seeds.
Bleeding heart pests and diseases
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate EC at 1000 times dilution; leaf spot disease sometimes occurs, and 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution can be sprayed for control.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage, there are scale insects, which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate EC at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Large-flowered daylily belongs to the Liliaceae family, Hemerocallis genus, and is a perennial herbaceous plant. It is native to China, Japan, and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial root flower for gardens.
Large-flowered daylily has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low cold, and has a wide suitable temperature range. It can be planted from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. Except for overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy, and overly clayey soil, it can generally be cultivated, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being best.
Propagation Methods
Dividing the daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. Division can be done by digging up the entire mother clump and replanting it in divisions, or by digging out part of the plants from one side of the mother clump to serve as planting stock while the remainder continues to grow.
Division is mostly carried out in spring before sprouting or in autumn after the leaves fall. Plants divided and transplanted in spring can send up scapes and bloom the same year; those divided and transplanted in autumn will only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, select plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, are of good quality, and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the clump's tillers to serve as planting stock; the dug-out portion must have roots. Cut it apart at the shortened stem, remove the old roots, rotted roots and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm), and they are ready for planting. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing and planting the seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible so the plants re-establish quickly. Generally, divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure the plants maintain vigorous growth.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing planting stock in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and the seedlings can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; the plants should be robust, the fruits plump, and free of pests and diseases. Sowing takes place the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given plenty of base fertilizer; the bed is 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before the seedlings emerge, water and weed, maintaining good soil moisture; by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted out. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked to hasten germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, at a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm; after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human manure and urine. Use a small arched shed to protect against cold over winter; after spring begins, strengthen field management, and by August they can be transplanted. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature before sowing.
Lateral buds: The flower buds refer to the small plants on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems; if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds take root within a week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture: Plants are grown from young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them on a suitable medium under appropriate conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air to produce young plantlets. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots and, after a period of cultivation, grown into seedlings, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin sections with growing points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corolla and use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylilies are mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although the large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil, because it grows for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to use flat land with a low water table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil, and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or be given organic fertilizer to raise its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing at planting must be kept at 40 to 50 cm. Dig holes for planting, with the holes arranged in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; if too deep, tillering is slow, and if too shallow, although tillering is fast, the plants mostly grow spindly and weak. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and firmed. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human manure and urine diluted with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: The large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying plenty of base fertilizer at planting (rotted cow manure or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium is supplied in sufficient amounts, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and later stages it enables the flower scapes to emerge neatly and thickly, the flower buds to develop large and plump, and the bud-forming ability to increase. Therefore, fertilizer should be applied twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied alone. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers? and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: The large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period, so irrigation should be based on the water requirements of the daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water holding capacity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, and watered promptly in drought. During the seedling stage the plants are small and their water requirement is also small. From the start of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept constantly moist to prevent the flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once a week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rainfall, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting, during the seedling stage, timely cultivating and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil; after emergence, hoe shallowly 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, achieving the dual purpose of weed control and drought prevention. Cultivating and weeding should be done when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf clusters cover the ground. Remove weeds in the daylily field promptly; if weeds grow in profusion, they easily trigger pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for the large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as nabu-jing, is a selective pre-emergence and post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass, and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as amine nitro grass, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent with very good pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual grass weeds including crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail, and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds such as lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, Galinsoga, and shepherd's purse; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, Galinsoga, and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge; it has poor efficacy against perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-butyl, a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide, has good control of annual and perennial grass weeds and is ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also oryzalin (Surflan), isoxaben mixture (Snapshot), etc., all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylilies are highly prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylilies in the middle and later stages; it begins in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylily seedlings; it begins from late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tips turn yellow and dry first, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, but also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward; water-soaked small spots first appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turning grayish white; in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying a 600 to 800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are tiny red insects shaped like spiders that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged sites. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, etc. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging the leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on the flower buds; the damaged flower buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsion, tobacco lime water, etc. In addition, in trials on large-flowered daylily propagation, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to large-flowered daylilies, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stem stands gracefully erect, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the amaryllis resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the laudatory name "gentleman's red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," a quite ingenious name. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-ground courtyards to form community landscapes, adding to garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, to make it convenient for flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, had amaryllis sales output value reaching 19.1 million US dollars in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis; starting in the 1970s, it began to be planted around open-ground courtyards in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Sowing and division are commonly used for propagation.
Sowing propagation: Sow indoors in pots in May to June; the suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage; when there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: Potted amaryllis is divided when repotting in February to March; before dividing, first remove the old roots and spent soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally, flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Planted in March, they flower in April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must have a stem plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18 to 20°C, keeping them moist; small bulbs form and roots grow at the base that same year. The following spring, new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for a further 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, lightly score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18 to 22°C, maintain relatively high air humidity, and after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. A flowering bulb with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm requires a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is such that 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the potting soil. Water sparingly at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump, well-filled bulbs. In commercial production, forcing cultivation is commonly used for amaryllis: flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17 to 19°C, flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat on amaryllis leaves can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seeds are to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germinating power, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If bulbs are being produced, cut off the flower stems promptly after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases are viral disease, leaf spot disease and nematode disease. Leaf spot damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
The peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the clumps are full, used for landscaping and ornament, it can lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful wonderland.
The peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m; the flower is borne singly at the top of the current year's branch, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stalk is relatively long; the flowers are divided into single and double forms, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
The peony flower has strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open ground in most areas of northern China. However, its heat resistance is relatively poor, and it stops growing in the hot summer. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under sparse shade. It likes moisture, but fears waterlogging, and is suitable for growing in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
The peony is commonly propagated by division, and the division time is preferably from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, let them dry in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder to prevent rot. To promote the sprouting of new roots, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of the peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring; after flowering it stops growing upward, and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all the aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the spindle-shaped fleshy roots, storing abundant nutrients, lie deep in the soil, with dormant buds at the root crown, which break through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and looseness and fertility. Before planting, apply plenty of base fertilizer; rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1,500 kg/mu) is preferable; deep plow and level before planting.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1,200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole specifications are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter; the depth of the seedling should be such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to protect against cold, preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivating and weeding: The following spring, before the peony sprouts, loosen and level the soil mound from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long droughts.
(2) Removing lateral buds: Besides the bud produced at the top of the stem, the peony also produces 3 to 6 lateral buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the lateral buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated so that the main bud's flower is large and full; if the lateral buds are retained, the flowers will be abundant and the ornamental period long. This can be controlled at your own discretion according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: The peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed; if there is a long spring drought or dog-day drought, water once or twice, preferably with pollution-free river water; in winter, depending on the dry or wet condition of the soil, one overwintering watering can also be given. The peony grows vigorously and has a large fertilizer requirement, and can be fertilized twice a year; before winter begins, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1,500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10 to 15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot; the peak incidence is generally in the summer and autumn seasons of high temperature and high humidity; in the early stage of the disease, a 800 times dilution of 40% carbendazim can be sprayed on the leaf surface for control; in severe cases, use a 500 times dilution of 40% carbendazim sprayed once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times can control it.
(2) Insect pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period in July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil into poisonous bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and cause relatively serious damage to peonies; the symptoms are the appearance of nodules of varying sizes on the fibrous roots, weakened plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes short until it dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, evenly applied to the affected plots during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals, mainly living in the soil layer within 5 to 20 cm, when applying the pesticide, it must never be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. Only after the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, can it begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers in the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated throughout China, and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. Above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. The chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by many methods such as division, cutting, grafting and sowing. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as the selection of good varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply plenty of rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, and deep plow and finely harrow, making flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, overcast and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be directly sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, and in cold northern regions only in early April, with a seeding rate of about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, the old chrysanthemum greens stubble can be dug out, exposing the root crown, and the lateral buds that already have roots can be cut off together with the old roots and transplanted into the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging; in the hot season shade is needed, and when the temperature is lower a plastic film arched shed can be built to keep warm and retain moisture. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, but the flower leaves quickly turn yellow; the flower leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period long, not only is it necessary to change the water every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so as to always ensure the water-absorbing channels remain unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleach powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleach powder should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleach powder).
13. Wax Begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained, humus-rich sandy loam, is not cold-tolerant, and fears blazing sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to long-ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red, etc. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white, etc., and it flowers in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First press the potting soil firm and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are tiny, they should be mixed with fine sand and sprinkled evenly, with a light covering of fine sand or none at all. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will soon germinate. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, at which time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Take cuttings 7 to 10 cm long, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist, and they will soon take root; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The potting soil should be well-drained, humus-rich sandy loam. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and apply a composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but fears direct blazing sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorch spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow spindly and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that it easily suffers cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, at which time fertilization should be stopped. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips several times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years, it appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots; after pinching treatment again, the original luxuriant appearance can be restored. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging-bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flower is borne singly in the leaf axils at the branch tips; the stalk is long; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, and often hangs down. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, etc., and it flowers in all four seasons, most profusely in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant forms and flower postures.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate maiden among flowers." Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ according to the season; it needs relatively large amounts in spring and autumn. In the hot summer season, fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state, and watering should be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe passage through summer. After the autumn cools it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape at appropriate times, and promote lateral branches. Generally, 2 to 3 weeks after pinching it can flower, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets seed with difficulty after flowering, so cutting propagation is usually used, which can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young branches are the easiest to root; select robust, well-filled top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to a depth of one node; keep the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. Pot the small seedlings promptly in culture soil, and pinch promptly to promote lateral branches. Old plants are repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the surrounding old roots are cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Cutting in spring has an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance, and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the "Beginning of Autumn" they should be cut back immediately to promote new branches, topdress with liquid fertilizer, and they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has vigorous vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be split 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; the clivia one grows will then be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Here is a discussion of views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. But different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
pH of water: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. The water quality's acidity and alkalinity differ from place to place. If it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, consideration should be given to improving it. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: The water quality of tap water, river water, lake water, etc. is different from one another; clean water rich in minerals is the best. Tap water has undergone treatment with artificially added chemicals, and should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will become poor, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving a little at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the water content in the soil is relatively low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia often tap the flower pot with their fingers, judging the water content in the soil by the sound produced by the tapping. If the sound produced by tapping is dull, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high, and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low, and it should be watered immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along the channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, it is not suitable to water; watering should avoid the flower heart, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable, well-aerated soil, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made of oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but attention should be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; a high rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and enhance water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, rice husk burned into charcoal (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace cinder can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the soil acidity and alkalinity differ in different regions; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer as the master." Fertilizer is an indispensable important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development condition, and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will mean a lack of nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with the leaves obviously becoming narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizer is divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds, etc., after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (spring, April to May; autumn, September to October), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed), etc., after full fermentation, make a good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer, with quick fertilizer effect but short-lasting fertility, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or heart, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above are all organic fertilizers; inorganic fertilizers can also be used, and take effect even faster. The growth of clivia stresses nutritional balance; it requires not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have an adverse effect on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason why people have long mostly used organic fertilizers.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia's photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed; when growing clivia indoors it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); in summer when the light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent burning the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the direction toward the light so that the plant shape is neat; if conditions permit, the extension direction of the leaves should be consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; frequently wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, above 25°C, methods such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool it down; above 30°C with low humidity will cause the leaf luster to fade; high temperature with a lot of water will make the leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high-fever disease, leading to the whole plant rotting away.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; the reason lies precisely here. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, don't expose to blazing sun. In summer, clivia should have strong light blocked all day. Using the slanting sunlight for a while each early morning is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperature, don't let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; it is best placed in an air-conditioned room, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, watering once a day after 6 o'clock in the afternoon, and do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, don't fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper part of the soil in the pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix well and put it back in the pot, which not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, don't water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, don't use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, don't let it become infected. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being broken and oozing sap, which triggers infection and causes decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The optimum growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and it easily withers; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, at that time cyclamen is in a dormant or semi-dormant state; whereas in the Kunming area of Yunnan province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues to grow normally. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperature. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28,000 to 36,000 Lx; if higher than 45,000 Lx or less than 15,000 Lx, the photosynthesis intensity drops significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure, and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It is often self-pollinated, and can also be cross-pollinated. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
1. Key points for propagating and cultivating potted cyclamen: Cultivation techniques
It is mostly propagated by sowing. Sow in September and it flowers the following winter. It can also be propagated by the cut-tuber method, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation lies in maintaining a cool but not overly humid environment during the summer dormancy period. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth vigor, so old tubers are often culled. Repot once a year.
2. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen planting
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide into small tubers, so sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate; if the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be subjected to a virus-elimination treatment. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and they can be sown. Determine the sowing date according to the time flowers are wanted. Generally, sow 13 months before the time flowers are wanted; even early-flowering varieties need 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and the Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To germinate earlier and emerge evenly, seed soaking to hasten germination can be carried out before sowing (virus-eliminated seeds sown immediately do not need hastening). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours, or in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a damp cloth to hasten germination, and at a temperature of 25°C, treat for 1 to 2 days; when the seeds have slightly sprouted, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, use equal parts vermiculite and fine furnace cinder mixed; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite mixed; or equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand prepared. Sow in spots, with a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot-soaking method to keep the potting soil moist, at a temperature of 18 to 20°C, germinating in 30 to 40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, prick out, with a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil prepared in a ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, make the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep moist, and place in a weak-light spot during the re-establishment period; after growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, keep the temperature preferably at 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let the fertilizer liquid contaminate the leaves, to avoid causing rot. When the small seedlings have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them.
2. Tuber division method: For excellent varieties of cyclamen that set seed poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye, coat the cut with plant ash or charcoal powder, let it dry slightly, and it can be potted and planted. Careful maintenance and management are needed. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tubers exposed above the soil surface are not round and neat, so it is seldom used.
In recent years, international research on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen has been carried out in many aspects, and the successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. cuttings taken from leaf buds with part of the tuber tissue attached; 3. in the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then making vertical cuts to divide it, so as to form regenerated shoots, etc. Method 3 is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber develops from a swollen, metamorphosed hypocotyl; after the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and well-developed tuber, and carry out the division 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable time for division is May to June. First, adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because when division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound secretes a large amount of sap; this bleeding not only affects growth vigor, but especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, and also easily leads to rot. Therefore watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture; when the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber in thickness. Then make radial vertical cuts (for tubers 4 cm or less in diameter) or checkerboard vertical cuts (for tubers more than 4 cm in diameter), to a depth that does not injure the root system. If checkerboard cuts are made, the cuts are spaced 1 cm apart; a tuber 6 cm in diameter can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the pot well with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until periderm forms at the wounds, which takes about 12 days, then promote the growth of adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20 to 30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture as it was at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together with the plant at the time of division, and every 2 to 3 days the lost water is replenished according to weight. 70 to 80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants have basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11 to 14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy, requiring no complicated techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great prospects for application. It can be used to multiply asexual clones of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of F1 hybrid seeds.
III. In order to meet the need for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjusting the sowing date. By making use of the seedlings' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and they will flower in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Controlling environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shade, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June to July.
3. Using certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote the dormancy of the bulbs, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5 cm of ether and treating for 24 to 48 hours rapidly breaks the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restores growth, and advances flowering. As another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can prevent the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and give off a foul odor. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shade; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia; the spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500- to 600-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodela radicicola. A soil temperature of 25 to 30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, and they invade the roots to form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: sterilize the soil; burn the affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500-fold dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500-fold dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold months of winter, narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold its emerald green leaves and produce plain, elegant, fragrant flowers. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to Chinese flower lore, narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at around 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is given frequently and changed often, it will flower in 25 to 30 days. However, several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and it enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry out;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic-like leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise deterioration of the water causes contamination and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to flower during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be planted in a pot about 20 to 300 days before the Spring Festival; after potting it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry, withered scale pieces on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm below the rim of the pot. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it so that the humus soil settles firmly, then set the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the pot in a cool place. After 5 days, once roots have grown from the basal plate, place the pot in a sunny place for cultivation. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering only when dry: do not water when the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean, washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot up to 3 cm below the rim, then set the narcissus head, with old scale pieces and old roots removed, into the pot filled with fine sand, and add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until it flowers. When planting narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower and root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning or evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old scale pieces and old roots cleanly, then place it in a narcissus growing bowl, add water to about 1 cm above the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After roots grow from the basal plate, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water culture of narcissus, it is best to change the water every day: on the one hand, this prevents deterioration of the water from causing contamination and root rot; on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots that grow white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head must be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal cut from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical cut on each of the left and right sides, then peel away the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds, until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scapes: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become deformed and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping differ. Carved and shaped narcissus heads should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down, to remove the mucus secreted from the wounds, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2 to 3 days. Once the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place it with the carved surface facing up in a narcissus bowl, add water, and keep it in a cool place for cultivation. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown about 1 cm long, place the narcissus bowl in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature must not exceed 20°C; change the water frequently, once a day; spray water frequently, 1 to 2 times a day; and provide frequent sunlight. In this way the cultivated flowers are luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.