The maidenhair fern propagation method is simple, easily adding a touch of green to the home
The maidenhair fern has graceful and beautiful stems and leaves, making it a rather outstanding foliage plant. In today's homes it is often grown in pots to beautify the indoor environment. What propagation methods does the maidenhair fern have?
The maidenhair fern has graceful and beautiful stems and leaves, making it a rather outstanding foliage plant. In today's homes it is often grown in pots to beautify the indoor environment. What propagation methods does the maidenhair fern have? Next, let the editor of Together Decoration Network briefly introduce them for everyone!
Propagation methods of the maidenhair fern: 1. Division propagation method
The maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division propagation can be done indoors in all four seasons, but is generally carried out in early spring in conjunction with repotting. Take the mother plant out of the pot, cut its rhizome so that each piece carries some rhizome and leaves, then plant them separately in small pots. Cover the rhizomes with mixed soil, water them, and place them in a shady, humid environment for cultivation, and new plants can be obtained.
The maidenhair fern is convenient and simple to propagate, adding a touch of green to the home
Propagation methods of the maidenhair fern: 2. Spore propagation method
The spore propagation method is to place the peat and fine sand used as the substrate in an oven for high-temperature sterilization, in order to kill pathogens and weed seeds. Then, put the sterilized soil into a shallow sowing pot. Cut off leaves that have mature spores, collect the spores and evenly scatter them over the shallow sowing pot, without covering with soil, cover with a glass sheet on top, soak water from the bottom of the pot, keep the pot soil moist, and place it in a semi-shady environment at 20-25°C. After about one month the spores can germinate into prothalli, and once they have grown to fill the pot they can be divided and planted. Note that 1-2 days before dividing and planting, the glass on the sowing pot should be removed for ventilation, so as to avoid causing plant rot or the occurrence of pests and diseases. In addition, in a warm and humid environment the spores are very easily dispersed and reproduce on their own.
Maidenhair fern Adiantum capillus-veneris L. Maidenhair fern illustrated guide: how to grow the maidenhair fern / how to propagate the maidenhair fern
Maidenhair fern profileMaidenhair fern Adiantum capillus-veneris L.
Cultivation methods and precautions for the maidenhair fern, an introduction to the maidenhair fern
The maidenhair fern (scientific name: Adiantum capillus-veneris Linn.) is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as wire grass, maiden's hair, wire fern, and water pig bristle soil. Its light green thin-textured leaves paired with shiny jet-black leaf stalks appear especially elegant and graceful. Height 0.1-0.5 m. Because its stems are slender and resemble iron wire in color, it is named the maidenhair fern. The maidenhair fern is also an indicator of calcareous soil. Because it fears dryness and strong light, it must be placed in a spot without direct sunlight for care. The maidenhair fern also has many varieties, such as the lotus-leaf maidenhair fern and the kidney-leaved maidenhair fern. It is a cosmopolitan species, growing wild in all regions.
The maidenhair fern likes loose, well-drained, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potted, the growing medium can be made by mixing loam, leaf mold and river sand in equal parts. During the growing season, apply a liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to keep the pot soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity.
Morphological characteristics of the maidenhair fern
Perennial herb, plant height 15-40 cm. Rhizome slender and creeping, densely covered with brown lanceolate scales. Fronds distant or close; stipe 5-20 cm long, about 1 mm thick, slender, chestnut-black, glossy, base covered with the same scales as the rhizome, smooth above; lamina ovate-triangular, 10-25 cm long, 8-16 cm wide, pointed at the tip, wedge-shaped at the base, mostly bipinnate below the middle, odd-pinnate once above the middle; pinnae 3-5 pairs, alternate, slanting upward, stalked (up to 1.5 cm long), the basal pair larger, 4.5-9 cm long, 2.5-4 cm wide, oblong-ovate, rounded-obtuse at the tip, odd-pinnate once (rarely twice), lateral ultimate pinnules 2-4 pairs, alternate, slanting upward, 6-15 mm apart, more or less equal in size or the basal pair slightly larger, symmetric or asymmetric oblique fan-shaped or nearly obliquely square, 1.2-2 cm long, 1-1.5 cm wide, upper margin rounded, with 2-4 shallow lobes or deeply divided into linear segments, sterile segments with obtuse-rounded tips, with broad triangular small serrations or erose small teeth, fertile segments truncate at the tip, straight or slightly sunken, entire or with erose small teeth on both sides, entire on both sides, base gradually narrowed into an oblique broad wedge, with a slender chestnut-black short stalk (1-2 mm long); terminal pinnule fan-shaped, base narrowly wedge-shaped, often larger than the lateral pinnules below it, stalk up to 1 cm; the second pair of pinnae 2.5-5 cm from the basal pair, each pair upward similar in shape to the basal pair and gradually smaller.
Veins dichotomously forked several times, reaching the margin, obvious on both sides. Lamina thinly herbaceous when dry, grass-green or brownish-green, hairless on both sides; rachis, various pinnate axes and pinnule stalks the same color as the stipe, often slightly zigzag to left and right. Sori 3-10 per pinna, borne transversely on the upper margin of the fertile ultimate pinnules; indusia elongated, long-kidney-shaped to round-kidney-shaped, upper margin straight, pale yellow-green, brown when old, membranous, entire, persistent. Spores with coarse granular ornamentation on the perispore, often preserved after treatment.
Ecological habits of the maidenhair fern
Often growing on limestone beside flowing streams or on the bottoms of limestone caves and dripping rock walls, it is an indicator plant of calcareous soil, at an altitude of 100-2800 m; on rocks under mountain slopes in forest or in relatively sunny and humid places.
Originally growing wild on wet rocks in streamside valleys, it likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments, is cold-tolerant, and avoids direct sunlight. It likes loose, fertile and calcareous sandy loam.
The maidenhair fern likes loose, well-drained, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potted, the growing medium can be made by mixing loam, leaf mold and river sand in equal parts. During the growing season, apply a liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to keep the pot soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity.
The maidenhair fern likes bright indirect light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves turn yellow and may even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; the suitable growth temperature is 13-22°C. In winter it can overwinter safely in the Northeast region, and sprouts again the following spring.
The maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division should be carried out in spring before new buds have sprouted, in conjunction with repotting. Turn the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old growing medium, cut its rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately, and new plants can be obtained. In addition, after the spores of the maidenhair fern mature, they scatter in a warm and humid environment and reproduce and grow on their own; once they have grown to a certain size they can also be potted.
Cultivation techniques for the maidenhair fern
Planting
When potting, light-colored glazed pots and clay pots can be chosen; the pot soil must have good water permeability and aeration. Generally, humus-rich peat soil or leaf mold is used, with about 1/3 coarse sand and fine sand added, and some bone meal put in, and the bottom of the pot should be lined with some broken tiles or coarse sand to facilitate drainage. The rhizome planting depth is 1.5-2.5 cm. Plant in spring or repot and change the soil. For potting, a growing medium commonly made by mixing humus soil or peat soil with a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer is used. Change the pot every spring; when repotting do not damage the roots, avoid wind, and keep the pot soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. Once new branches grow, normal management can resume.
Bottle culture
For bottle culture of the maidenhair fern, it is best to choose a colorless, transparent, square glass bottle with a smooth surface, so that the plant will not be distorted and will look good. Mix peat and fine sand in equal parts as the growing substrate and put it into the bottle. It is best to first put some old wall ash at the bottom of the bottle, which is more beneficial to the growth of the maidenhair fern. A growing substrate thickness of 2 to 3 cm is enough; be careful not to stick the growing substrate onto the bottle walls. Then use a sharp knife to divide the mother maidenhair fern into several clumps, use chopsticks to hold them and carefully plant them into the bottle. A large bottle can hold several clumps, a small bottle should hold fewer clumps. Gently press firm the place where the plant roots contact the growing substrate, then water. Next, put the bottle cap on well, and place the bottle in a place without direct sunlight.
Since the inside of the bottle is sealed, watering once a month and topdressing once every few months is enough. In order to prevent water mist from fogging the inner wall of the bottle and affecting the display, besides thoroughly washing with washing powder before use, special care should be taken not to place them in places with large temperature differences. After autumn begins, as the temperature drops, the maidenhair fern enters a slow-growth stage, and old leaves gradually turn yellow; at this time they should be cut off. Throughout the winter, the ambient temperature should not be lower than 5°C. In the following spring when the weather warms up, the plant will grow a large number of new leaves, presenting a thriving scene.
Growing the maidenhair fern in a bottle not only saves trouble and labor, but also avoids the phenomenon of plant leaves withering and branches being damaged because of being away on a business trip and not watering on time. Under the high-humidity conditions inside the bottle, the maidenhair fern plant grows unusually vigorously. Place a bottle of maidenhair fern on the tea table in front of the window; from a distance the glass bottle is crystal-clear and the fern leaves sway gracefully, just like a green gem glittering and shining.
Temperature and light
The maidenhair fern likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments. The suitable growth temperature is 21-25°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. In winter it should be moved into a greenhouse; at temperatures above 5°C the leaves can still remain fresh green, but below 5°C the leaves will suffer frost damage. It likes bright indirect light and fears direct sun. In summer it can be appropriately shaded; long periods of strong direct light will cause most of the leaves to turn yellow. Indoors it should be placed in a dark spot; even if placed there for 1 year it can still grow normally.
Watering and fertilizing
The maidenhair fern likes a humid environment. During the peak growing season it should be watered fully; besides keeping the pot soil moist, attention should also be paid to relatively high air humidity, and when the air is dry, water should be sprinkled around the plant. Especially in summer, water 1-2 times a day; if there is a lack of water, the leaves will shrivel. Avoid watering so that the pot soil is sometimes dry and sometimes wet, which easily turns the leaves yellow. Apply dilute liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a month; when fertilizing do not stain the leaf surface, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. Because of the calcium-loving habit of the maidenhair fern, an appropriate amount of lime and crushed eggshells should be added to the pot soil, and frequently applying calcium fertilizer will give better results. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
The maidenhair fern likes warm and shady humid environments, is not cold-tolerant, is not drought-tolerant, and prefers acidic soil. For potting it can often be placed flat indoors in a spot with indirect light, where it will grow well. The pot soil is best as a growing medium made by mixing mountain forest soil and fertile garden soil in half each. During the growing season, watering should be sufficient, and a thin fertilizer should be applied once about every 2 weeks to promote lush growth. In summer it should be placed outdoors under a shade shed for care. When the leaf clumps are too dense, the old leaves can be appropriately pruned, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow and hinder the view. After winter begins, move it indoors and place it in a spot with indirect light; keeping the room temperature at about 10°C is enough for safe overwintering.
In winter the temperature is low, and it suffers frost damage from late frost or early frost. The maidenhair fern likes a warm and humid climate, is not cold-tolerant, and the suitable growth temperature is 15-24°C. If the winter room temperature is above 10°C, the leaves can remain emerald green; below 5°C they turn black and yellow. Too shady, without sunlight for a long time. The maidenhair fern fears summer heat and cannot be exposed to the sun, but it also cannot be completely shaded. In summer it is best placed outdoors under a shade shed and under large trees, or moved outdoors at night and moved back indoors during the day. In winter it should receive sufficient light.
In summer the climate is muggy and ventilation is poor. Air humidity should be increased and ventilation strengthened.
Can the maidenhair fern be grown well at home?
To grow the maidenhair fern well at home, the following points should be observed:
① The maidenhair fern likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments and avoids direct sunlight. It is best to place the plant in a spot indoors that sunlight cannot reach; too much and too strong light will cause the leaf edges to scorch. It grows well at a temperature of 10-20°C; high summer temperatures will inhibit growth, and only when winter temperatures are not lower than 5°C can it stay green all year round.
② Ferns all grow in humid environments, and the maidenhair fern is no exception. When cultivating, besides paying attention to keeping the soil moist, water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently to increase air humidity. When the plant turns yellow, it is often because the humidity is insufficient. In addition, it may also be frost damage.
③ Repot once every spring, pruning away dry leaves and old roots. The pot soil should be changed to fresh, fertile and loose leaf mold, and it is best to add a small amount of brick crumbs.
What should be done if the leaves of the maidenhair fern have scorched edges?
The leaves of the maidenhair fern most easily develop brown scorched edges, which is a common problem encountered in cultivation. The maidenhair fern originally grows in shady, humid wall cracks or on stone surfaces, and likes moisture the most. Because summer light is strong, if the maidenhair fern is not placed in a shaded environment it cannot grow normally. Direct sunlight will quickly evaporate the water from the leaves; before the roots can absorb water up, some of the leaf cells have already shrunk and dehydrated, and the green color gradually fades, thus scorched edges appear.
Remedial measures:
① It must immediately be placed in a semi-shady spot for cultivation.
② Cut off the scorched leaves, and promptly spray water on the leaf surface and the surrounding ground.
③ It should be cared for attentively, trying as much as possible to avoid being stimulated by strong light again.
How can the maidenhair fern be kept green all year round?
① During the growing period, water fully and maintain relatively high air humidity. During the peak growing season, spray water on the branches and leaves 2-3 times a day to keep the leaf color deep green. If the water supply is insufficient or the air is dry, the leaves will turn yellow or curl at the edges and scorch.
② The maidenhair fern does not need much fertilizer; generally applying a thin cake fertilizer water once every 2-3 weeks is enough. If a small amount of calcium fertilizer can be added, the effect is even better. But note: when watering and fertilizing, do not stain the leaf surface, otherwise it easily causes the leaves to turn yellow and affects the ornamental effect.
③ Although the maidenhair fern is a shade plant, it still needs a certain amount of light during the growing season. When caring for it indoors in spring, summer and autumn, it is best to place the pot on a windowsill on the east or north side of the room. If cultivated outdoors, never expose it to direct sunlight; if exposed to strong direct sunlight it very easily causes the leaf edges to scorch and the leaves to turn yellow.
④ During care, when dead leaves are found they should be cut off promptly, so as to keep the plant fresh and attractive and to favor the sprouting of new leaves. When the leaf clumps are too dense, the old leaves can be appropriately pruned each autumn, otherwise the branches and leaves will be too messy and crowded, which will lead to weak growth and yellow leaves.
⑤ In winter the pot should be placed near a south-facing windowsill for cultivation, and the air should be kept humid with the room temperature maintained above 12°C; in this way the leaves will grow fresh green and lovely.
⑥ The maidenhair fern grows fast and needs repotting every spring. When repotting, note that fresh growing medium needs to be added.
How to scientifically propagate the maidenhair fern?
The maidenhair fern is usually mainly propagated by division, which can maintain the parental traits. It is generally carried out at repotting in April of the following year; depending on the size of the mother plant, the base of the plant can be divided into two or three for cultivation. In addition, once mature spores scatter into moist soil, they will also develop into seedlings; when they have grown a little larger, digging them up and potting them makes new plants.
Propagation methods of the maidenhair fern
Commonly used division or spore propagation methods:
Division propagation can be done indoors in all four seasons, but is generally carried out in early spring in conjunction with repotting. Take the mother plant out of the pot, cut its rhizome so that each piece carries some rhizome and leaves, then plant them separately in small pots. Cover the rhizomes with mixed soil, water them, and place them in a shady, humid environment for cultivation, and new plants can be obtained.
The spore propagation method is: place the peat and fine sand used as the substrate in an oven for high-temperature sterilization, in order to kill pathogens and weed seeds. Then, put the sterilized soil into a shallow sowing pot. Cut off leaves that have mature spores, collect the spores and evenly scatter them over the shallow sowing pot, without covering with soil, cover with a glass sheet on top, soak water from the bottom of the pot, keep the pot soil moist, and place it in a semi-shady environment at 20-25°C. After about one month the spores can germinate into prothalli, and once they have grown to fill the pot they can be divided and planted. Note that 1-2 days before dividing and planting, the glass on the sowing pot should be removed for ventilation, so as to avoid causing plant rot or the occurrence of pests and diseases. In addition, in a warm and humid environment the spores are very easily dispersed and reproduce on their own.
Disease control of the maidenhair fern
Potted maidenhair ferns often suffer from leaf blight; in the early stage it can be controlled with Bordeaux mixture, and in severe cases it can be controlled with a 1000-1500 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl. If scale insects harm the plant, it can be controlled with a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate.
Variety classification of the maidenhair fern
Fan-leaved maidenhair fern
Leaves fan-shaped to irregularly broad-ovate, 2-3 times palmatifid to bird's-foot-like dichotomous branching; the central pinna largest, pinnules with short stalks.
Whip-leaved maidenhair fern
Also called bristle maidenhair fern, leaves linear-lanceolate, about 10-25 cm long, the tip often extended into a whip shape, rooting when touching the ground. Leaf sword-shaped rectangular, once pinnate or twice torn, the upper and outer margins often deeply divided into narrow segments, the lower margin straight and entire.
Wedge-leaved maidenhair fern
Leaves broadly triangular, 2-4 times pinnately divided, the segments rhombic or oblong.
Distribution range of the maidenhair fern
Distributed in Africa, the Americas, Europe, Oceania and the warm regions of Asia.
Taiwan, China, Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, Hubei, Jiangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, Gansu, Shaanxi, Shanxi, Henan, Hebei, Beijing, and the Northeast region.
Cosmopolitan species. Widely distributed in Africa, the Americas, Europe, Oceania and other warm regions of Asia. Type specimen collected from Europe (Britain).
Dietary or medicinal value of the maidenhair fern
The medical information and health dietary information on Hugarden Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting task: to love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow a doctor's advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal value
Nature and flavor: bitter and slightly sweet, neutral.
① "Southern Yunnan Materia Medica": "Warm in nature, slightly sweet and slightly sour in taste."
② "Classified Materia Medica": "Slightly bitter, neutral, non-toxic."
③ Jiangxi "Herbal Manual": "Sweet, neutral, non-toxic."
Meridian entry: "Southern Yunnan Materia Medica": "Enters the liver."
Functions and indications: dispel wind, activate collaterals, relieve heat, stop bleeding, promote tissue regeneration. Treats rheumatic itching and numbness with contracture, hemiplegia, consumptive injury with blood ejection, traumatic injuries, cuts, and chronic shin ulcers. Clears heat and promotes urination, dissipates blood stasis and stops bleeding, relaxes sinews and activates collaterals. Used for upper respiratory tract infection, hepatitis, dysentery, urinary tract infection, epistaxis, hemoptysis, hematemesis, hematochezia, beriberi edema, rheumatic bone pain, urticaria, hemiplegia, numbness of hands and feet, and traumatic injuries; for external use, treats external bleeding from trauma, fractures, sores and abscesses, and leg ulcers. Influenza, common cold, cough, hepatitis, dysentery, low back pain, urethral stones, breast pain, consumptive injury, traumatic injuries, burns and scalds, snake bites, and furuncle toxin.
① "Southern Yunnan Materia Medica": "Travels through the meridians and collaterals, strengthens sinews and bones, relaxes sinews and activates collaterals. For hemiplegia, contracture of hand and foot sinews, phlegm-fire flaccidity and weakness, and soreness and pain of sinews and bones, soaking in wine and using it has good effect." "Pound and apply to chronic shin ulcers, promoting tissue regeneration; apply to cuts and traumatic injuries, stopping bleeding and closing the wound, and it can reunite sinews and bones."
② "Classified Materia Medica": "Treats postpartum stroke, treats wind diseases, reduces swelling and toxin qi."
③ "Chongqing Materia Medica": "Reduces fire and relieves heat, promotes tissue regeneration and stops bleeding. Treats rheumatism, consumptive injury with blood ejection, and dog bites."
Usage and dosage:
1. Internal use: decoct in water, 25-50 g. External use: pound and apply.
2. Internal use: decoct in water, 30-60 g. External use: appropriate amount, pound and apply.
Whole plant (pig bristle grass): bland, bitter, cool. Clears heat and detoxifies, drains dampness and reduces swelling, promotes urination and treats strangury. Used for dysentery, scrofula, lung-heat cough, hepatitis, strangury patterns, venomous snake bites, and traumatic injuries.
Landscape uses of the maidenhair fern
Among ferns, the maidenhair fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are graceful and varied in form, its shape is elegant, and its plant type is compact, making it extremely suitable for small-pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because the black leaf stalks are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and its texture is very soft and beautiful, like a young girl's soft hair, it is also called "maiden's hair"; its light green thin-textured leaves paired with shiny jet-black leaf stalks appear especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, has strong adaptability, and is easy to cultivate, making it even more suitable for year-round indoor potted display. As a small potted shade-loving foliage plant, it is superior to asparagus fern in many respects. Small pots can be placed on a desk or tea table; larger pots can be used to arrange the windowsill, hallway or living room of a shady room, and can be enjoyed by people for a relatively long period. The leaves of the maidenhair fern are also good cut-leaf material and dried-flower material.
Cultural background of the maidenhair fern: pairing the maidenhair fern with home decor styles
The minimalist style emphasizes a concise and lively fashionable home decor, but at the same time it also pursues the display of personality, reflecting the owner's temperament to the greatest extent. It is no exaggeration to say that the minimalist style is simply the "versatile" style of the home decor world, and the most suitable pairing for it is none other than those relatively delicate, fine-leaved plants. If such an arrangement is adopted, it will add a touch of unique artistic flavor to your room. Therefore, the maidenhair fern is exactly such a plant suitable for placing in the home.
In addition to the elegance we are familiar with, the Chinese style can actually also be paired with delicate plants like the maidenhair fern, which better highlights the traditional Chinese spirit of overcoming hardness with softness. Mixing with other styles may produce even more wonderful sparks, and the addition of the maidenhair fern will give the home a touch of freshness.
Maidenhair fern pictures
Key points for summer care of the maidenhair fern among ferns
The maidenhair fern is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant that can be potted and placed in a garden or indoors to add vitality. It is also one of the plants more commonly used in Japanese gardens.Morphological characteristics: The maidenhair fern, also known as wire grass, wire fern, and water pig bristle soil, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the family Adiantaceae. The maidenhair fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome is creeping, densely covered with brown scaly hairs, and the leaf stalk is slender and hard, like iron wire, hence the name maidenhair fern. The leaves are ovate-triangular, 2-4 times pinnately compound, finely divided, with fan-shaped forked veins, leaf length 10-30 cm, pinnules obliquely fan-shaped, dark green. Sori are borne at the tip of the pinnules.
Ecological habits: likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments, and is relatively cold-tolerant.
Propagation: mainly by division. Division should be carried out in spring before new buds have sprouted, in conjunction with repotting. Turn the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old growing medium, cut its rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately, and new plants can be obtained. In addition, after the spores of the maidenhair fern mature, they scatter in a warm and humid environment and reproduce and grow on their own; once they have grown to a certain size they can also be potted.
Soil: suitable for planting in loose, well-drained, fertile calcareous sandy loam; when potted, the growing medium can be made by mixing loam, leaf mold and river sand in equal parts.
Fertilizing: apply a liquid fertilizer once a week during the growing season.
Watering: keep the pot soil moist and the air humidity relatively high at all times. In summer, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity.
Light: the maidenhair fern likes bright indirect light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves turn yellow and may even die.