A detailed guide to the care methods for common houseplants
Why do flowers that were blooming profusely in the shop quickly wither once you bring them home? Why do plants that thrive with lush branches and leaves at someone else's house still end up dying even when you do your best at home? Growing plants is a body of knowledge, and many details play no small role. Know the care methods for common houseplants well, and stop being a plant killer. Below, let's take a look together at the care methods for common houseplants.
Care methods for common houseplants
Money tree (Pachira aquatica): Drought-resistant, cold-resistant, tolerant of poor soil, highly stress-resistant; place in a spot with diffused light, and water thoroughly only when the potting soil has dried out completely.
Sago palm (Cycas revoluta): Slow-growing, an evergreen shrub. Likes light but cannot tolerate scorching sun; likes warmth, with winter temperatures above 7°C; sandy loam soil is best; pay attention to watering, and place in a spot with direct sunlight.
Tiger head shadow: Likes sunlight, drought-tolerant, with a poorly developed root system; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated, sunny spot; high temperatures and shade easily cause leggy growth and deformation.
Money tree (Pachira aquatica): Likes ample sunlight and high temperatures, and is also shade-tolerant. The suitable temperature is 15-30°C; in summer, water once every 3 days.
Money tree (Pachira aquatica): Likes a warm environment and needs semi-shade conditions; place in a spot with diffused light, and water thoroughly only when the potting soil has dried out completely; watering should not be too frequent.
King palm (Archontophoenix alexandrae): Likes a warm, humid and semi-shady environment, with a suitable temperature of 20-30°C; place in a spot with diffused light, and water thoroughly only when the potting soil has dried out completely.
Calathea (Calathea roseopicta): Likes a semi-shady environment, is afraid of cold, with a suitable temperature of 18-22°C; place in a spot with diffused light and keep the potting soil moist.
Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum): Likes sun but is afraid of scorching sun; likes a hot and humid environment and is not cold-tolerant; below 13°C it suffers cold damage; during the leaf-growing period, mist frequently to maintain humidity; avoid strong light; in summer place on a north windowsill, and in other seasons place on a south windowsill.
Bromeliad (Bromeliaceae): Likes sun and heat, with an optimal growing temperature of 20-25°C; note that water must not accumulate in the pot; when watering, most of the water should go into the hollow cup at the center.
Phoenix palm (Phoenix roebelenii): Likes a warm, humid and semi-shady environment; place in a spot with diffused light.
African jasmine (Fagraea ceilanica): Does not like direct sunlight, likes semi-shade, requires good ventilation, and likes moisture; in summer it should be grown in shade, and in winter water should be strictly controlled, with slightly dry conditions being preferable.
Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans): Likes a warm environment, with an optimal growing temperature of 16-26°C; relatively drought-tolerant and needs semi-shade conditions; likes loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam soil.
Ficus bonsai (Ficus microcarpa): Likes loose, fertile, sandy acidic soil; not drought-tolerant, relatively tolerant of wet conditions; can be displayed indoors for long periods under diffused light conditions.
Lucky bamboo tower (Dracaena sanderiana): Likes a warm environment, with a suitable temperature of 20-25°C and winter temperatures above 5°C; keep water in the pot at all times.
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica): Likes a warm, humid climate and is not cold-tolerant; in summer it must not be exposed to scorching sun and should be placed indoors or on a balcony in a ventilated, shaded spot; in winter it should overwinter indoors. During the peak growing season, water more; in winter the potting soil can be slightly on the dry side.
Emerald green (Aglaonema): Likes warmth and humidity, likes light but is afraid of direct sunlight, and is shade-tolerant. The overwintering temperature should be above 15°C; the potting soil should be fertile and well-drained.
Croton (Codiaeum variegatum): Likes warmth, humidity and ample sunlight. It is sensitive to drought; place in a spot with diffused light and control the amount of water.
Dragon bone (Euphorbia trigona): Likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated, sunny spot; avoid water accumulation.
Care of common houseplants, cultivation methods and precautions for houseplants
Image: Epiphyllum (Epiphyllum hybrid)
[Common questions] How should houseplants be cared for?
[Expert answer] There are many kinds of houseplants, and each has different key care points, but in summary, the points to note are as follows:
1. Pruning
During each care visit, the caretaker should carefully inspect each plant, and promptly prune yellowed or damaged leaves, asymmetrical tree shapes, and leggy branches. For leaves with a yellowed area exceeding 1/3, the entire leaf should be cut off; for those with a yellowed area less than 1/3, scissors should be used to cut off the yellowed part along the leaf shape, taking care to preserve the leaf shape and not cutting straight across.
2. Hygiene
① Clean the plant leaf surfaces; clean the plant leaf surfaces before each visit. The caretaker regularly wipes the plant leaves clean, so that no soil or dust remains on the leaf surfaces.
② Clear away garbage, debris, dead leaves, etc. from flower pots and cachepots; clean mud and dirt from the outer surfaces of flower pots and cachepots; clean the saucers so they are free of mud stains, standing water, etc.
③ After each care session, mop up standing water at the site and remove dead leaves, spent flowers, etc.
3. Watering
For the amount of water given to indoor flowers and plants, adjust the watering amount according to the location of the flowers and plants, the flower variety, habits, and season. Plants near windows or in positions with strong west-facing light or in air-conditioned spots should be watered more, while succulent, fleshy, and perennial-root types should be watered less. Water more in summer and autumn, and less in winter and spring, maintaining an appropriate amount of moisture; for clients with wooden floors or carpets, the water amount must be even more strictly controlled.
4. Fertilizing
For indoor foliage plants, N-P-K compound fertilizers and finished organic fertilizers, green-light agents, etc. are commonly used. The fertilizing amount should be determined according to the humidity, light, and plant variety of different locations. Indoor flowers and plants should not use fertilizers with an unpleasant odor or high-efficiency pure nitrogen fertilizers such as urea.
5. Pest and disease control
There must be effective measures and plans for preventing and controlling pests and diseases such as aphids, mites, scale insects, mosquitoes and flies, soft rot, and black spot, so as to wipe out pests and diseases in the bud.
6. Repotting
For foliage plants, if the ornamental leaves are less than 1/2 of the plant, if the plant has relatively serious yellowing or poor growth affecting its appearance, if the plant has relatively serious pests or diseases that are difficult to kill by spraying, or if the pesticide for controlling such pests or diseases is highly irritating and unsuitable for spraying in scenic areas. If the plant does not adapt to the placement environment and develops symptoms such as leaf drop. In any of the above cases, it will be replaced within 7 days.
[Editor's comments] The above are the key points for houseplant care compiled for you by the editor of First Agricultural Economics. For more related materials, such as"Complete Guide to Houseplants," "Houseplants That Absorb Formaldehyde," "Feng Shui for Placing Houseplants"and so on, please follow the First Agricultural Economics cultivation technology channel, and we will wholeheartedly provide you with more and more professional materials!
Common houseplant cultivation methods
Key points of this article
Flower pots, watering can, soil, fertilizer, flower scissors...
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1. Cultivation methods for Alocasia (Dumb Cane) (has the effect of removing dust from the air; must not be placed in the bedroom)
1. Temperature. Alocasia can only grow well in an environment not lower than 18°C. If the temperature is below 18°C, Alocasia will enter a dormant state and stop growing. 2. Fertilizing. Alocasia likes fertilizer, and should be fertilized every month. 3. Watering. In summer, Alocasia needs more water, but not excessively; it is suitable for alternating dry and wet conditions, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it should go dormant, with less watering and no fertilizing. 4. Sunlight. Alocasia likes shade, so do not let direct sunlight hit it. If Alocasia becomes "wilted," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilizing, so pay attention to topdressing. Care: Alocasia likes a warm, humid, and slightly shaded environment, but during the flowering period it needs ample sunlight, otherwise the spathe will be greenish, affecting quality. It must receive 3-5 hours of light per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate and affect its ornamental value. Alocasia is not very cold-tolerant and should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, under shaded conditions, it needs frequent water spraying to cool down and maintain moisture. Alocasia likes moist, fertile soil, which is what is commonly called "heavy fertilizing and heavy watering," and during the growing period it needs more water.
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2. Cultivation methods for African jasmine (Fagraea ceilanica) (the volatile oils it produces have a significant bactericidal effect. It can help people relax, is conducive to sleep, and can also improve work efficiency)
1. Temperature. African jasmine grows well in a warm climate environment. The optimal growing temperature is 18°C to 32°C. When the summer temperature is above 38°C, plant growth will be inhibited; in some areas of South China, field-planted specimens can overwinter in the open, while potted plants north of the Yangtze River require a winter greenhouse temperature of no lower than 3°C to 5°C. 2. Light. African jasmine likes sunlight, and its native environment is mostly semi-shady. For field planting in South China as courtyard landscaping trees, it is best to choose a site with side shade; for potted plants north of the Yangtze River, full light can be accepted in spring and autumn, while in summer a shade shed is required, or the plant should be moved under the dense shade of a large tree, at least avoiding direct sunlight for several hours around noon; particularly noteworthy is that from June to July, after long periods of rain followed by a clear day, when the temperature suddenly rises and the light is very intense, shade work must be done well to prevent young new shoots and tender leaves from being scorched. For potted plants in public places, relatively ample diffused light is required, or they should be placed near a window; they should not be too dark, otherwise the leaves will lose their green color and turn yellow or fall off. 3. Water. Whether field-planted or potted, ample water is required, but the roots must not have standing water, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In spring and autumn, watering should be done to the extent of keeping the potting soil moist; during the plum rain season, be careful to prevent water accumulation; in the scorching summer, spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to increase humidity and lower temperature; in winter, for indoor potted plants, keeping the potting soil slightly moist is appropriate, and around noon when the temperature is relatively higher, spray an appropriate amount of water on the leaf surfaces. In spring, summer, and autumn, under normal fertilizing conditions, if the lower leaves of a potted plant turn yellow and fall off, it is very likely due to root rot from water accumulation, and the pot should be repotted and the soil changed promptly; in summer, if watering has been neglected and the newly emerging tender shoots wilt and droop, do not immediately give the potting soil a heavy watering, but first spray some water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover somewhat, then give the potting soil an appropriate amount of water. 4. Soil. For planting in southern regions, the planting site should be loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam soil. For potted plants in the north, a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 1 part composted organic fertilizer, and 1 part fermented sawdust can be used. During the growing season, loosen the soil of potted plants once a month, always keeping the root area in a well-aerated state. In addition, potted plants can have their soil changed once every 1 to 2 years. 5. Fertilizer. During the growing season, potted plants should be topdressed once a month with dilute decomposed cake fertilizer water; before flowering in May, apply a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once to promote flowering; after autumn, apply 1 to 2 more phosphorus-potassium fertilizer topdressings to help them overwinter safely. For potted plants in northern regions, to prevent leaf yellowing, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate when watering and fertilizing during the growing season. When field planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer; in late autumn, dig trenches around the outer roots and bury cake fertilizer, 0.5 to 1 kg per plant;
Pest and disease control 1. Diseases ① Anthracnose mostly occurs on young branches and leaves, with nearly circular to irregular sunken spots, brown edges, gray-white to gray-brown centers, and sparse small black dots on the surface, which are its acervuli. Control method: in the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-fold solution plus 25% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-fold solution, or 25% carbendazim wettable powder 500-fold solution, alternating sprays once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. ② Sunscald disease In the severe heat of midsummer, when shade sheds are not properly in place, the tender shoots and young leaves of potted African jasmine are prone to sunscald, appearing as many gray-white or light white scorched spots on the leaves. Control method: use shade netting for shading and adjust the position appropriately; in hot and dry seasons, appropriately increase the frequency and amount of watering, and if necessary pour water on the leaf surfaces; for plants that have already suffered scorching, promptly move them under a shade shed, cut off the scorched tender shoots and young leaves, and strengthen water and fertilizer management so the plants recover health as early as possible. 2. Insect pests African jasmine occasionally also suffers from leaf-eating pests, such as Atractomorpha sinensis, causing many holes or notches on the plant leaves. Spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 800-fold solution promptly to kill them.
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3. Cultivation methods for Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) (suppresses waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. At the same time, it can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent nasal mucous membranes from drying out, greatly reducing the likelihood of illness) Peace lily is an "expert" at suppressing waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. At the same time, it can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent nasal mucous membranes from drying out, greatly reducing the likelihood of illness. This beautiful houseplant, native to the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, is undoubtedly a miracle in medicinal biology. The following is an illustrated guide. Light conditions: Neutral plant, suitable for planting in semi-shade. Care required: Keep the potting soil moist and fertilize regularly; the leaves need frequent spraying with water. Suitable temperature: The optimal growing temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. It can remove: ammonia, acetone, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde.
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4. Cultivation methods for Silver Queen (Aglaonema commutatum) (known for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the better it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.) This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a longer time. ★Suitable temperature: 16-21°C ★Can remove nicotine, formaldehyde
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5. Cultivation methods for Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) (can absorb about 20 micrograms of formaldehyde per hour, so it is considered the most effective biological "purifier." People who deal with paint and coatings all day, or who have smokers around them, should place at least one pot of ferns in the workplace. In addition, it can also suppress xylene and toluene released from computer monitors and printers.) Maidenhair fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam soil; when potting, the growing medium can be made by mixing loam, leaf mold, and river sand in equal parts. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can be sprinkled on the ground around the plant frequently to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern likes bright diffused light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will turn yellow and may even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant, with an optimal growing temperature of 13-22°C and a winter overwintering temperature of 5°C. Among ferns, maidenhair fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are elegant and varied, graceful in form, and compact in size, making it extremely suitable for small-pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because the black leaf stalks are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and its texture is very soft and beautiful, like a young girl's soft hair, it is also called "maiden's hair"; its light green thin leaves paired with glossy black leaf stalks appear especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, has strong adaptability, is easy to cultivate, and is even more suitable for year-round indoor potted ornamental display. As a small potted shade-loving foliage plant, it is superior to asparagus fern in many respects. Small pots can be placed on desks and coffee tables; larger pots can be used to decorate windowsills, hallways, or living rooms in shady rooms, and can be enjoyed by people for a relatively long time. Maidenhair fern leaves are also good cut-leaf material and dried-flower material.
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6. Cultivation methods for Umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola) (brings fresh air to smoking households. The leaves can absorb nicotine and other harmful substances from smoke-filled air, and through photosynthesis convert them into harmless substances of the plant's own. In addition, it can reduce formaldehyde concentration by about 9 milligrams per hour) It likes semi-shade and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time in a bright and well-ventilated home. If there is about 4 hours of direct light indoors each day, it can grow well. For varieties with yellow or white markings, if the light is too weak or nitrogen fertilizer is applied excessively, the markings will become blurred, thus losing their original characteristics. The optimal growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the minimum winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C, otherwise leaf drop will occur. New leaves will appear the following spring. It grows well in an environment with high air humidity and sufficient soil moisture, but it has strong adaptability to the dry climate of the north. Note that the potting soil must not lack water, otherwise a large number of leaves will fall off. Under low winter temperatures, water should be controlled appropriately. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. Repot once every spring; if using a plastic container, pay attention to drainage. The potting soil can be prepared with peat soil, leaf mold, perlite, and a small amount of base fertilizer. Fine sandy soil can also be used for potting. Pruning does not require major pruning. If the lower leaves have all fallen off and it has become a bare stem, cut it back at the upper half to encourage new branches to sprout. The cut branches can also be used for cuttings, and after rooting they will become new plants. If you do not want the umbrella tree to grow too tall, you can pinch it once it reaches 30 cm, that is, remove the top, pinching off the top buds, and after some time side branches will grow.
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7. Cultivation methods for Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) (can absorb 95% of carbon monoxide and 85% of formaldehyde in the air.) Substrate: Spider plant has strong adaptability to various soils and is easy to cultivate. Fertile sandy loam, leaf mold, peat soil, or fine sandy soil with a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as potting soil. Propagation: Usually propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low and division is unsuitable, it can be done in other seasons. Small plantlets with roots on the flower stems can also be cut off for potting. Watering: Spider plant likes a humid environment, and the potting soil should be kept moist frequently. However, the fleshy roots of the spider plant can store a large amount of water, so it has strong drought resistance and will not die of dryness even if not watered for several days. When the winter temperature is below 5°C, water less, and do not let the potting soil become too wet, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. Variegated varieties should be given less nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the white or yellow markings on the leaves will become less obvious. Stop fertilizing when the ambient temperature is below 4°C. Light: Spider plant likes a semi-shady environment and can be grown year-round in a bright indoor space. Spider plants cultivated outdoors can also grow well under strong direct sunlight in summer. However, spider plants cultivated indoors for a long time should avoid strong direct sunlight and need 50-70% shading. Temperature: Spider plant is tolerant of high temperatures. The suitable temperature is above 15°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is above 4°C. Humidity: It likes a humid environment. To keep the spider plant fresh and green, the leaves can be sprayed and washed frequently. Pruning: At ordinary times, cut off yellow leaves at any time. Once a year in March, the pot can be repotted, cutting off old roots, rotten roots, and excess fibrous roots. In early to mid-May, cut off some of the old leaves of the spider plant, which will encourage more new leaves and small spider plantlets to sprout. Hydroponics: Spider plant can be grown hydroponically. Take the potted spider plant out of the pot, wash the soil off with water, cut off old leaves and old roots, place it in a hydroponic vessel, and add clean water. Do not use too much water; just enough to reach the root crown is appropriate. For vigorous growth, add a few drops of nutrient solution (which can be homemade) to the water. The vessel can be a wide-mouth glass bottle, glass cup, or other container. The water in the container can be changed every few days, or simply topped up with some water.
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8. Cultivation methods for Aloe (Aloe vera) (one pot of aloe is equivalent to nine biological air cleaners) Growing aloe as a household potted plant not only beautifies the home, but also allows you to pick fresh aloe leaves at any time for home health care. Some people say that growing a few pots of aloe at home is like having a resident "private doctor." Although this saying is somewhat exaggerated, it is not entirely unreasonable. Whether aloe is used as medicine to treat illness or for beauty and skin care, only fresh aloe can achieve the best results. 1. Preparation of potting soil There are many formulas for preparing potted aloe substrate. A common formula uses leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2, and practice has proved that this substrate preparation is relatively suitable. Replacing river sand with sawdust reduces the weight of the substrate and increases air and water permeability, and can achieve good results. Sawdust from hard miscellaneous wood is preferable, and it should be piled up and fermented before use. 2. Disinfection of potting soil For potting soil used for indoor aloe cultivation, it is best to disinfect it before use to kill possible insect eggs and pathogens in the substrate. Common methods include soil burning disinfection, steam disinfection, and chemical disinfection. (1) Soil burning disinfection: Place the prepared mixed substrate on a stove equipped with an iron plate and heat and stir-fry it. Generally, at 80°C, 30 minutes is enough to kill harmful microorganisms and various insect eggs in the substrate. (2) Steam disinfection: Place the prepared substrate in a container and steam it thoroughly. Ordinary household coal stoves and gas stoves can be used for heating and disinfection. Steam disinfection should be maintained above 80°C, and steaming for 2 hours can achieve a thorough disinfection effect. (3) Chemical disinfection: 40% formalin is commonly used. For each cubic meter of culture substrate, evenly sprinkle 400-500 ml of the solution onto the substrate, seal and cover it flat with plastic film, leave it closed for 1-2 days, then open it, and air-dry it for 2-3 days. After the solution has volatilized, it can be potted. 3. Potting and repotting The process of planting cultivated aloe into a flower pot is called potting. Potting time: It should be done in spring and summer. Indoor temperatures of 15-28°C are relatively suitable. Potting method: Selecting seedlings before potting is an important key. Healthy aloe seedlings have short, thick leaves, dark green color, and more than 4 adventitious roots. When potting, first place some broken tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage and aeration, then fill in some prepared substrate, put the aloe into the pot, try to spread the root system out, fill soil to cover the roots well, then gently lift the seedling upward a little and press it slightly so that the roots are in close contact with the substrate above, below, left, and right, then fill the potting soil to about 2 cm below the pot rim. Finally, slowly water thoroughly into the pot, and potting is complete. After potting, do not water too much; generally, do not water if not dry, and water thoroughly when dry. Frequently spraying water on the aloe leaf surfaces can speed up the aloe's return to green and root formation. Newly potted aloe should also not be exposed to direct sunlight and can be maintained in semi-shade. Repotting: Household potted aloe generally needs repotting once every 1-2 years. Spring is also preferable for repotting. When repotting, master the correct technique for removing the plant from the pot. Turn the potted plant upside down, support the potting soil with your left hand, and strike the pot rim sharply with the palm of your right hand several times, and the pot and old potting soil will separate naturally. Then move the aloe together with the soil ball into a larger new pot, add new potting soil around the pot, then press the potting soil firm with your hands and water thoroughly. After repotting, it still needs to be maintained in semi-shade for a period, and only after it has fully recovered can it be moved to a sunny spot. 4. Management and care The management of household potted aloe mainly includes three aspects: fertilizing, watering, and winter insulation. Fertilizing: During the growth process, aloe needs large amounts of elements such as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and iron, among which carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen come from the air, while the other elements are absorbed from the potting substrate. In addition, it needs elements such as boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, copper, and chlorine. Although the required amounts are not large, they cannot be replaced by other elements. Scientific fertilization can supplement nutrition. Watering: In winter, generally water once every 15-20 days, and if needed, spray water on the leaf surfaces. Water as little as possible and keep the potting soil dry, which is beneficial for the plant to overwinter safely; in spring, generally water once every 5-7 days. Do not water if not dry, and water thoroughly when watering, so that the potting soil alternates between dry and moist; in summer, when the temperature is relatively high and evaporation is high, water once every 2-3 days, and in addition spray water on the aloe leaf surfaces every morning and evening. Also note that it should be exposed to less scorching sun to reduce water loss; in autumn, the watering method for aloe is basically similar to that in spring, and the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet. The time of watering is generally best in the early morning and evening, when the water temperature is relatively close to the potting soil temperature, which can avoid sudden changes in potting soil temperature caused by watering that affect root growth. Remember: "For potted aloe, it is better to keep it dry than wet." 5. Overwintering management (1) Temperature requirements: In China, except for the tropical regions of the south and frost-free areas year-round such as southern Fujian, the coastal areas of Guangdong, and Hainan, where aloe can overwinter safely and naturally, in other regions overwintering and freeze-protection management must be strengthened. 5°C is taken as the minimum safe line for aloe overwintering. Mastering the safe overwintering temperature for aloe is one of the key techniques for the success of household potted aloe. (2) Methods for increasing and maintaining temperature: In regions where winter is not very cold or where there are indoor heating conditions, moving potted aloe indoors will generally allow it to overwinter safely. When the temperature cannot be guaranteed to remain above 5°C, corresponding warmth measures must be taken. For example, dig rectangular pits (commonly called a ground cellar), make a simple insulation box, etc. (3) Control watering and increase light: In winter, water as little as possible or not at all, and keep the potting soil dry. If the air is too dry, the method of spraying water on the leaf surfaces can be used. In addition, let the potted aloe see as much sunlight as possible.
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9. Cultivation methods for Monstera (Monstera deliciosa) (absorbs carbon dioxide at night, improving air quality) 1) Soil and repotting. When Monstera cuttings have rooted and are transplanted into pots, fertile pond mud or black mountain soil can be used. Because it grows rapidly, it needs repotting once a year. Repotting time is best carried out between March and April. When repotting, remove part of the old soil and dead roots, and change to a pot one size larger. Place some hoof pieces, crushed bones, etc. at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and fill in a growing medium mixed with leaf mold, vegetable garden soil, and sandy soil at 1/3 each. (2) Pay attention to the growing environment. Monstera avoids direct scorching sun and is not cold-tolerant. In midsummer it should be placed indoors or under a shade shed, and must not be placed on a balcony with excessively strong sunlight, otherwise it easily causes withered leaves and affects ornamental value. When the winter temperature drops to 6°C, it should be moved indoors for warmth. 3) Keep the potting soil moist. Monstera likes moisture and needs sufficient water during the growing period. For daily watering, once a day is fine; in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening; when the weather is dry, it is even more necessary to spray water on the leaf surfaces and sprinkle water in the maintenance environment to maintain air humidity and keep the leaves bright. In winter, water once every 3-4 days. Every 7-10 days, spray the leaf surfaces once with clean water close to room temperature, to keep the plant evergreen and fresh and improve its ornamental value. (4) Fertilize appropriately. Monstera is a relatively fertilizer-loving flower. From April to September, apply dilute cake fertilizer water once every 15 days; decomposed human urine diluted with water can also be applied thinly, and with sufficient fertilizer the leaf color will be pleasing. In addition, for newly planted and growing plants, supports should be set up and tied in time, and after shaping, attention should be paid to pruning the whole plant, striving for a beautiful plant shape. Let me also tell you a few pest prevention methods, listen carefully! The main pests and diseases harming Monstera are scale insects and gray leaf spot. (1) Scale insects. When Monstera is cultivated indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on the stems and leaves, causing loss of ornamental value. When a small number occur, they can be caught manually; when severe, spray with 40% omethoate emulsion 1000-fold solution to kill them. (2) Monstera gray leaf spot. It mostly begins from wounded areas at the leaf margins. It is more severe after low temperature, smoke, or pest damage. After infection, the lesions first appear as black spots, and after expansion become elliptical or irregular. The edges are dark brown and the inside is gray-brown. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove pests in time, and cut off some diseased leaves. ② At the time of onset, spray with 70% thiophanate 1000-fold solution or 0.5 equal-strength Bordeaux mixture.
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10. Cultivation methods for Ivy (Hedera helix) (the champion of formaldehyde absorption) As long as you water it a little when it dries out, mastering the principle of not watering if not dry and watering thoroughly when dry will let you grow it well. Ivy can also be grown in water; you can add a little nutrient water and grow it in a vase, which is both hygienic and beautiful. Try it quickly!
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11. Cultivation methods for Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) (a multi-talented eliminator of harmful substances) The rubber plant still grows relatively fast! ① Light. Apart from appropriate shading in summer (30-50%), at other times it is best to provide ample light. ② Temperature. The rubber plant likes high temperatures, with a suitable temperature between 20-32°C, and it must not be lower than 10°C. ③ Humidity. A high-humidity environment is beneficial for growth and will also produce aerial roots, so in addition to normal watering, it should also be sprayed with water frequently; of course, it is best if the growing environment has 75-95% humidity. ④ Watering. It should not be too frequent; it is best to water thoroughly after the surface soil dries, and it must not be kept dry for a long time or given only surface watering. ⑤ Fertilizing. A compound fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer is fine; either hole application or watering with fertilizer solution is acceptable, but fertilizing must be done when the ambient temperature is between 18-30°C. ⑥ Pruning. Actually, this step is only for making the plant shape fuller or controlling growth, and instead it will affect its growth! ⑦ Pest and disease control. Under normal care, there are few pests and diseases; only when maintained indoors in winter will red spider mites and scale insects cause harm, and targeted pesticides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol (red spider mites) and mecarbam (scale insects).
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12. Cultivation methods for Asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) (a protective umbrella that eliminates bacteria and viruses) Asparagus fern, also called cloud-leaf bamboo, is a perennial evergreen vine of the genus Asparagus in the Liliaceae family. It is native to southern Africa. Ecological habits: Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and not drought-tolerant; it likes a warm, semi-shady environment and avoids frost. Asparagus fern has strict requirements for potting soil, requiring it to be loose, fertile, well-drained, and well-aerated; the potting soil is best neutral. It can be prepared with leaf mold, sand, and decomposed fertilizer. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and is also afraid of heat, with an optimal growing temperature between 15-25°C. It can neither withstand direct light nor stay in a shaded place for too long. Watering should not be excessive; master the watering principle of seeing dry and seeing wet. Fertilizer applied once a month can meet growth needs. One- to two-year-old asparagus ferns have the greatest ornamental value. Three-year-old asparagus ferns begin to produce trailing branches, and supports should be set up for them to climb. If you do not want to set up supports, you can also cut off the climbing branches at the root. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant, with an overwintering temperature of 10°C.
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Common questions about home flower growing:
1. Why do the tender leaves of asparagus fern turn scorched black at the tip when they reach a certain height, while branches and leaves can still grow from the sides? The main reasons for the scorched tips of asparagus fern tender leaves are excessively dry potting soil, insufficient fertilizer, or fertilizer burn. In addition, asparagus fern is originally a climbing plant, and when it grows tall it must have a support or string for it to climb up; otherwise, because the top shoot bends and droops, affecting the supply of water and nutrients, similar conditions can also occur. 2. What diseases is asparagus fern prone to? How should they be prevented and controlled? ① Small branches of asparagus fern turn yellow but do not fall off, mainly caused by insufficient nutrients in the potting soil and malnutrition. Some cases are caused by hard, compacted potting soil, poor aeration, and reduced root vitality, which affects the normal growth of the plant. In addition to repotting in spring with a growing medium rich in organic matter, the surface of the potting soil should also be loosened frequently, and fertilizing should be strengthened. ② Leaf tips of asparagus fern wither and yellow or fall off, mainly due to too little watering, the potting soil being on the dry side, or relatively low humidity. Keep the potting soil moist frequently, and frequently spray water on the plant; the water temperature is best the same as room temperature, and place the asparagus fern in a place with high air humidity. During the growing season, apply mixed fertilizer appropriately to make the plant robust and increase its resistance. ③ The color of asparagus fern branch tips is dull yellow or yellow-green, caused by strong light or excessive watering. Move it to a shaded place or a windowsill with curtains, avoid direct strong light, and also note not to water too much. ④ Asparagus fern roots rot and branch tips scorch yellow and fall off, mainly caused by being hit by strong winds in the hot summer season, or long-term water accumulation in the flower pot. Therefore, in summer special attention must be paid to guarding against the impact of thunderstorms or typhoons. 3. Causes and control methods of yellowing branches and leaves in potted asparagus fern? a) Light too strong. Asparagus fern likes semi-shade and avoids strong light. In summer, if it is placed in direct sunlight, the branches and leaves will wither and yellow. Once this happens, move the flower pot to a cool place, and at the same time frequently spray the branches and leaves with water to increase relative humidity; most of those not seriously damaged can recover. b) Improper watering. Although asparagus fern likes moisture, it is very afraid of water accumulation in the pot; too much water easily causes root rot, while too little water easily dries out the leaf tips. If root rot occurs, control watering and loosen the soil frequently. For those with dry leaf tips, first water a small amount, then gradually increase it, while spraying water on the branches and leaves. c) Insufficient nutrients. Asparagus fern likes fertile soil. If the soil is not changed and fertilizer is not added for a long time, nutrients will be in short supply, and yellowing of branches and leaves will appear. At this time, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once a week, and water and loosen the soil in time. d) Improper fertilizing. If the topdressing concentration is too strong or undecomposed fertilizer is applied, it is very easy to cause fertilizer burn, leading to dry and falling leaves. Once fertilizer burn occurs, take the pot out, remove the fertilizer, then rinse the soil ball with clean water, and replace it with new growing medium. e) Poor winter management. Asparagus fern likes warmth, and in winter it should face the sun. If at this time it is placed in a place with insufficient light for a long time, plus poor ventilation and cold, it easily causes branches and leaves to wither and yellow. At this time, move it to a warm place with sunlight, and at the same time appropriately control watering, and it can gradually recover to normal. f) Infection by pests and diseases. Once asparagus fern is infected by pests such as scale insects, it will also cause branches and leaves to wither and yellow, and should be controlled in time.
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13. Cultivation methods for Broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa) (eliminates heavy metal pollution and carbon dioxide) Broadleaf lady palm, also called Guanyin bamboo, sinew-head bamboo, palm bamboo, and dwarf lady palm, is an evergreen foliage plant of the genus Rhapis in the palm family. Broadleaf lady palm is a clumping shrub with upright stems, 1-3 m tall. The stems are as slender as fingers, unbranched, with leaf nodes, wrapped in leaf sheaths with brown reticulate fibers. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, palmate, deeply divided almost to the base, with 3-12 segments, 20-25 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; the leaf stalks are slender, about 8-20 cm. The spadix is axillary, with small, pale yellow flowers, very numerous, unisexual, dioecious. The flowering period is April-May. The berries are spherical, and the seeds are spherical. Broadleaf lady palm is native to Guangdong, Yunnan, and other places in China, and is also found in Japan. There are more than about 20 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in Southeast Asia. It often grows abundantly on hillsides and beside ditches in shaded, moist shrub thickets. Cultivated types include large-leaf, medium-leaf, and fine-leaf broadleaf lady palm, and there is also variegated broadleaf lady palm. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shady, and well-ventilated environment, fears scorching sun, and is slightly cold-tolerant, able to withstand low temperatures of around 0°C. Broadleaf lady palm can be propagated by sowing and division, and home cultivation is mostly by division. For sowing, use loose, permeable soil as the substrate, generally mixing leaf mold and river sand, etc. Before sowing, the seeds can be treated by soaking in warm water (soak in 30-35°C warm water for two days), and sown when the seeds begin to sprout. Because germination is generally uneven, after sowing the soil covering should be slightly deeper. Generally, germination occurs 1-2 months after sowing, and the germination rate can reach about 80%. When the seedling cotyledons reach 8-10 cm long, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that when transplanting, 3-5 plants must be planted as one clump to facilitate survival and growth. Division propagation is generally carried out in spring together with repotting. Use a sharp knife to divide the original plant clump with many suckers into several clumps. When dividing, try to damage the roots as little as possible and not damage the buds, so that each clump contains more than 8-10 plants; otherwise growth will be slow and the ornamental effect poor. After division and potting, place in semi-shade, keep moist, and frequently spray water on the leaf surfaces to prevent the leaves from withering and yellowing. After new branches sprout, move to a sunny place for care, and then carry out normal management. For potted broadleaf lady palm, a substrate can be prepared by mixing equal parts of leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand, and an appropriate amount of base fertilizer can be added when planting. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month; the potting soil should be kept moist, preferring wet over dry, but it must not have standing water, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. During the growing season, shade is required, especially in summer when direct scorching sun must be avoided, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly and short; generally the shading level should be about 50%. Broadleaf lady palm requires a well-ventilated environment for growth; if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily occur. If only a small number occur, scrape them off manually in time, and use 800-fold omethoate solution for control, while also paying attention to ventilation and timely pruning of dead branches and withered leaves. Broadleaf lady palm has a compact and elegant plant shape, upright clumps, delicate leaf shapes, and dark green glossy leaves. It has both a tropical charm and the elegance of bamboo, and is an important indoor foliage plant. It is very shade-tolerant, suitable both as small and medium potted plants for general household indoor display and appreciation, and as large potted plants for indoor arrangement in large buildings. It is one of the large indoor foliage plants. In a bright room it can be enjoyed for a long time, and in a darker room it can be enjoyed continuously for 3-4 weeks. 2. Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm. Genus Rhapis in the palm family, also called Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places. Characteristics: Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply divided, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious. Habits: Likes a warm, shady, moist, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C, able to withstand short-term low temperatures of around 0°C. Propagation: Generally by division combined with repotting. Select a large, dense plant, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut the root system as little as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for the divided plants, then repot them. After watering thoroughly, place in a semi-shady, moist place, and frequently spray water on the leaf surfaces. After growth resumes, normal care can begin. For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring. Key points for hydroponic care: 1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasites. 2: During the growing period, spray water on the leaf surfaces frequently. Method for obtaining hydroponic material: It is best to wash the roots of a potted plant. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture, and after hydroponics it is not easy to rot, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.
Precautions
Pay attention to indoor temperature!
Plant cultivation