What are the key points for summer and autumn care of potted chrysanthemums and the specific grafting method?

The chrysanthemum is one of China's traditional precious flowers, originating from central China in places such as Henan, with a history of more than 3000 years. There are many varieties of chrysanthemum, currently more than 2000, and the diversity of its flower forms and colors ranks first among flowers. Wu Fuhua, a chrysanthemum expert at Chengbei Park in Shuyang County, Jiangsu Province, has done considerable research on chrysanthemums; he has collected more than 1600 famous chrysanthemum varieties and compiled the book "Illustrated Catalogue of Famous Chrysanthemums." Below is a brief summary of his "five-character formula" for summer and autumn care of potted chrysanthemums. Also attached is the grafting technique for chrysanthemums, summarized for everyone in the hope that it will be helpful!

    What are the key points for summer and autumn care of potted chrysanthemums?

First is "selection."

That is, selecting suitable potting soil. The potting soil should be loose, fertile, and sandy. If the chrysanthemums are cuttings, after the cuttings have taken root, choose a cloudy or overcast day to pot them promptly. They can also be planted into pots under a shade shed or shade net, and placed under the shade net or shade shed for 3 to 5 days before normal management. As the plants continue to grow, they should go through 2 to 3 repottings; when repotting for final planting, if you can use six parts leaf mold, one part cake fertilizer residue, and three parts sandy soil, the plants will grow lush with abundant branches and leaves in summer and autumn, and the likelihood of flower branches suffering from pests and diseases can be reduced.

Second is "watering."

That is, watering reasonably. Whether watering is reasonable has an important bearing on how well chrysanthemums grow. Watering should be done at the right time; in the hot summer season, water evaporates quickly, so it is best to water once in the early morning and add another "leaf watering" in the evening. When doing "leaf watering," it is best to use a fine-nozzle watering can to spray the entire chrysanthemum plant, in order to increase the humidity of the surrounding environment and the air around the chrysanthemums, but do not wet the potting soil, so as to avoid excessive vegetative growth of the chrysanthemums.

Watering in summer and autumn should also be determined by the different growth stages of the chrysanthemums and different climatic conditions, in terms of both frequency and amount. If it is rainy, there is no need to water; on cloudy days water less, and on sunny days water more; in autumn water moderately, and in the hot summer it is best to water more. Also note that the temperature of the water should be the same as or close to the soil temperature at the time; never use icy well water to water in the hot season. In addition, watering should be done slowly with a fine-nozzle watering can, not with a forceful stream; no matter the season, watering should not be excessive, otherwise it will cause root rot, yellowing and withering, or even death of the entire plant.

Third is "fertilizing."

That is, fertilizing in appropriate amounts. Before the chrysanthemums are finally planted, it is best to apply sufficient base fertilizer in the potting soil. For later topdressing, note that it should not be applied too early or too much, otherwise it is not only useless to the seedlings but can also cause harm. Generally, fertilizing only requires one application of thin fertilizer a few days after the Beginning of Autumn; after flower buds form, apply a slightly stronger liquid fertilizer once every week; after the buds have formed, apply one more application of strong liquid fertilizer, and after that no more fertilizing is needed. Before fertilizing, loosen the soil a little, and it is best not to water; the fertilizer solution should be applied when the potting soil is relatively dry. When fertilizing, never let the fertilizer water touch the branches and leaves, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and wither. After fertilizing, promptly use a watering can to spray clean water on the plants, to wash off the fertilizer solution clinging to the leaves.

Fourth is "pinching."

That is, pinching back in time. In summer and autumn, if watering and fertilizing are moderate, sunlight is sufficient, and the temperature is suitable, chrysanthemum seedlings grow extremely fast; if not controlled, they easily grow too tall and too large, with too many branches and leaves, which is unfavorable for flowering. Therefore, timely pinching is very important. When the chrysanthemum seedlings grow to 10 cm, begin pinching. For the first pinching, leave only 4 to 5 leaves; if cultivating multi-headed chrysanthemums, pinch 2 to 3 times; if cultivating single-stem chrysanthemums, then by September when the flower buds form, in addition to applying heavy fertilizer, also promptly remove side buds and side branches; for those with weak flower stems, insert wooden or bamboo stakes and tie them with fine string to support the flower stems.

Fifth is "prevention."

That is, preventing disease and controlling pests. Potted chrysanthemums have relatively many pests and diseases in summer and autumn. The more serious diseases include: leaf spot, black rust, brown spot, and pests such as aphids, red spiders, and whiteflies.

Preventing leaf spot. The soil used for cultivating chrysanthemums can be sterilized at high temperature, or sprayed with 50% thiophanate powder plus 800 times water. In addition, before final planting, the chrysanthemum seedling roots can be soaked in 0.1% potassium permanganate for about 10 minutes; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 50% zineb powder plus 1200 times water, once a week, 3 sprays being sufficient.

Preventing and controlling black rust and brown spot. Brown spot occurs more from July to August, and black rust occurs most from August to September. The residual debris on the surface soil should be regularly cleared away, and diseased leaves should be promptly removed as soon as they are found and burned in a centralized manner. In the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% thiophanate powder plus 1000 times water, or spray with zineb or tebuconazole wettable powder mixed with water, once a week, 3 consecutive applications being sufficient.

Preventing and controlling pests. The growing soil can be heated to kill insects; in the early stage of pest occurrence, a solution of 50% phoxim emulsion plus about 1200 times water can also be sprayed, and deltamethrin, cypermethrin, imidacloprid, etc. mixed with water can also be sprayed.

What are the key points for summer and autumn care of potted chrysanthemums? What is the specific grafting method for potted chrysanthemums?

    What is the specific grafting method for potted chrysanthemums?

I. Preparatory work before grafting

1. Selection of substrate: mix ordinary loess and sawdust in a 2:1 ratio, then moisten and sterilize with 0.2% potassium permanganate solution. For every 100 kg of substrate, add 5 kg of decomposed rapeseed cake and 1 kg of diammonium phosphate, mix thoroughly, and put into flower pots.

2. Selection of rootstock: choose perennial herbaceous plants of the genus Artemisia in the Asteraceae family with upright main stems and many branches as rootstock; the species include Artemisia abaensis, Artemisia gansuensis, and wild mugwort. These herbaceous plants are distributed at an altitude of 2000-2900 m, growing in valleys, forest edges, riverbanks, field edges, and field ridges.

3. Transplanting of rootstock: in summer, at the end of May or the beginning of June, collect healthy, pest-free Artemisia abaensis, Artemisia gansuensis, and mugwort growing beside ditches and field ridges, and transplant them into flower pots.

4. Collection of scions: use the current year's tender branches of locally cultivated chrysanthemums that are robust, pest-free, have similar flowering periods, full flower shapes, and harmonious flower colors; after collecting, immediately prune the scions, remove the basal side branches and leaves, cut them into scions according to specification, and then graft. Scions not yet used should be immediately soaked in water, or grafting can be done as they are collected.

II. Grafting time and method

1. Grafting time: after the rootstock is transplanted into the pot and the seedlings have recovered, the seedlings enter their peak growth period, that is, about 20 days after transplanting, and grafting can then be done. Grafting must be chosen on a sunny day between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m.; at this time the survival rate of grafting is high.

2. Selecting scions: the thickness of the scion should be the same as that of the rootstock; the scion is generally 8-10 cm long, with 3-4 buds.

3. Grafting method: the cleft grafting method is usually used. Cut the base of the scion on two sides into a 2-3 cm wedge shape; the cut surface is required to be smooth and flat. On the rootstock at a smooth place 8-12 cm from the main branch, cut off the rootstock main branch, and make a longitudinal slit 2-3 cm long in the center of the rootstock main branch. Then quickly dip the cut wedge-shaped scion and the rootstock in 100 ml/L No. 7 GGR, immediately insert the scion into the rootstock, align the cambium, bind tightly and firmly from top to bottom with plastic film, and then remove the sprouts and leaves at the base of the rootstock branch. The grafting shape should be carried out according to the design; if a spherical flower is desired, first cut off the rootstock's main tip to promote a large number of side branches, and when the side branches have grown to a certain extent, graft them all at once according to the spherical surface; if a pagoda-shaped flower is desired, graft in layers, grafting 1 layer about every 10 days until grafting is completed.

Care measures for the southern plant date palm

Part One: "Compilation of Southern Plants"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really resemble eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the white and yolk of an egg - it really looks very cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the tips of the branches. In summer it blooms brilliantly, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and it is very suitable for careful appreciation. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its form is quite beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and on lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment with ample sunlight and good drainage. It is robust by nature and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and is averse to waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best with deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam. Propagation is by cuttings. When planting frangipani, attention must also be paid to pest and disease control; for example, if small brown spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is because of frangipani angular leaf spot, and at this time you must pay attention and take measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also comes in red and yellow; both can be used to extract essential oils for making high-grade cosmetics, soap, and food additives, and the price is quite high, with great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for making tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful form, with many branches on the stem and bizarre, ever-changing shapes; the leaves resemble those of loquat, and after falling in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branches, much like deer antlers adorned with beautiful spots. It can be called the top choice among small trees for landscaping, courtyard arrangement, and potted ornamental use in tropical regions. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used externally to treat scabies, redness and swelling, and other conditions. The wood is white, light, and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware, or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: breeding hope, resurrection, rebirth - as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.

Magnolia

Magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark that is rough and cracked; the twigs are somewhat stout and grayish brown; the winter buds and pedicels are densely covered with light grayish-yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, and the vigorous basal branches have elliptic leaves. Magnolia flowers are very much like lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread out in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of green and white, with dazzling white light, and they have high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, they are truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open. It loves dryness and is averse to low humidity; waterlogging at the planting site easily causes root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Magnolia flowers have relatively strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in factories polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. When artificially fumigated with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 g of sulfur. Therefore, magnolia is a very good anti-pollution greening tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and cannot tolerate strong light or west-facing exposure; too much light or west-facing exposure can easily cause the trees to be scorched. Magnolia likes fertilizer; in addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plants grow vigorously, with green and thick leaves, not only producing many buds but also large flowers, a long flowering period, and rich fragrance. Magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance; its main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis, and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, magnolia also has medicinal and edible value. Magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, etc., and also contain magnoline, alkaloids, yulanin, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A, and other components, and have certain medicinal value. Magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature and flavor, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and freeing the lungs and nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids, and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks and can also be brewed as tea. The magnolia flower meaning represents gratitude. Magnolia often opens large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because its plant is tall and its flowers are positioned relatively high, swaying in the wind, full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, it is very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is an herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, with single, relatively large leaves, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with leaf veins arranged in a feather-like pattern, in two rows, with entire margins. Maranta is a good groundcover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes a warm, humid environment with bright light; it is not cold-tolerant, nor drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun exposure. If directly exposed to sunlight, it will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping new leaf growth, and turning leaf color yellow. Therefore, shading must be attended to during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water; during the growing period it should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot or even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention all 365 days; if the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of maranta seedling traders and producers. Plants of the Marantaceae family do not have many pests and diseases, mainly mealybugs, whiteflies, etc. Of course, it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings, and desserts. Add water and boil to form a transparent, odorless, tasty paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest, making it especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt, and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and difficult painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish brown, with many branches. The young branches are reddish brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, with a short pointed apex, a rounded and oblique base, asymmetrical, with stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, dark red. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges and also for making stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red; different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main considerations are leaf color and leaf size, bringing about leaf-color contrast and forming color contrast, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, black cutworm moths, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the disease spots appear

as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early defoliation; damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinonema. The fungus overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the initial infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, you must promptly carry out treatment.

Ornamental peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree, 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and flat-spreading; the bark is dark reddish brown, rough and scaly when old; the twigs are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with numerous small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the apex, covered with short pubescence, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate, or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight, is drought-tolerant, and cannot tolerate a moist environment. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in waterlogged low-lying places, seedling death easily occurs. Garden value: ornamental peach has large flowers and brilliant color, and is beautiful when in bloom, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used beside lakes, along streams, on both sides of roads, and in parks, etc. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted viewing and is often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. There is also the common weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing particularly good results in the very year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in groups, or as specimens, and shows particularly good greening effects in the very year. Ornamental peach is one of the colored seedlings commonly used in landscaping, and is usually used together with purple-leaf plum, purple-leaf sand cherry, and other seedlings. Mixed planting with flowering shrubs creates a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted on the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive, etc.; it is a kind of polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, etc. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing blood, and benefiting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. The main pests include aphids, red spiders, mealybugs, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial plant communities

1. Satsuki azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless holly ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. The three foliage-color plants are planted linearly, giving rich leaf color, and together with large-specification thornless holly balls, they form a neat, full, and clearly layered roadside greening color-band effect.

2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia × fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Acer palmatum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, with both leaf color and flower color very beautiful, while the Photinia × fraseri ball has old leaves green accented with new leaves red, setting each other off and being extremely beautiful. The four plants combined have rich layers and form a landscape road with vertical rhythm and spatial hierarchy and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fatsia japonica + Canary Island date palm + Frangipani

In this combination of plants, green is mainly dominant, with leaves both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and large (Fatsia japonica, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, with the effect of narrowing space, bringing people closer.

4. Moso bamboo + Iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou; it is a running bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and gorgeous, varied flower colors, and the two together are very charming.

5. Small-leaf gardenia + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Aucuba japonica + Osmanthus fragrans

Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low plant form, and can serve as the lowest-layer plant. Aucuba japonica has yellow spots on its leaves and is a relatively good foliage plant, while the tree Osmanthus fragrans has a subtle fragrance that refreshes the heart. The combination has spacing and density, changes in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.

6. Azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilanica + Canna

Azalea has brilliant flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilanica as a foil, it is even more moving. Canna has large leaves, narrowing the space and making people feel close.

7. Groundcover lawn + Marigold + Photinia × fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui'

With green groundcover as the base, marigold's brilliant yellow flowers are extremely beautiful; behind the marigold, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red photinia serve as a foil, and the Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui' tree has a spreading form. The several plants set each other off and are richly varied.

8. Ophiopogon japonicus + Guava tree

Both Ophiopogon japonicus and guava trees are very adaptable in Fuzhou and grow normally. Ophiopogon japonicus has fine, soft leaves and is very suitable as groundcover. The guava tree has yellow, smooth bark and a graceful posture, with relatively large leaves arranged with proper spacing, making it very suitable for open groves and small paths.

9. Lawn + Agave americana 'Marginata' + pruned and shaped banyan + Senna bicapsularis

With green lawn as the base, agave leaves are thick and large, with leaf color alternating silvery yellow and green, and matching extremely harmoniously with the pruned and shaped banyan, while Senna bicapsularis has a beautiful posture and brilliant flower color. These plants combined have rich layers, with color changes but harmony.

10. Liriope + Rhapis excelsa + Areca palm + Papaya tree

This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope has fine, soft leaf shapes, while Rhapis excelsa and areca palm have thicker, larger leaves, and papaya leaves are large and palmate, with fruit borne on the main trunk and a very graceful posture.

11. Acalypha wilkesiana + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, Acalypha wilkesiana has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The three plants combined as a carpet flower bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping maintenance and management plan

Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and livestock, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass, and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flower bed flowers, etc. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management"; only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of plants in the park area:

1. The green area covers about 245419 ten thousand sq m, with a high greening coverage rate, and there are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned shaped shrubs; the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After careful inspection by us, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: the plant planting style in this area is relatively open; the plaza is mainly planted with rows of ginkgo, zhennan, and large trees,

with appropriate accompanying low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: the plant varieties in this area are complexly matched, with large and small trees, shrubs, and groundcover plants interplanted.

At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,

top-grade osmanthus, etc.) are dominant. Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, spacious, and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely, and expansive atmosphere,

all depends on later maintenance and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: ① shaped shrubs grow poorly, with monotonous shapes; ② flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and the flowering condition (including number of flowers, flower size, color, and secondary flowering) is unsatisfactory; ③ lawns have many weeds, and in local areas turfgrass weeds show a trend of spreading unchecked; ④ pest and disease problems exist.

I. We plan to take the following corrective measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied and graceful shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to promote their growth and then shape them according to their form; this depends on the specific plant growth and plant shape. In local areas, hedges are highly regular, and the neat, uniform long strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. Likewise, we can try pruning them into wave shapes, matching the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a more fluent living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing pest and disease characteristics, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual pulling. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants and different seasons all have different fertilizing methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We will classify and count all the plants, then make green labels indicating their

family, genus, species, and living habits, and label all plants in the area. This can

enrich employees' general knowledge of plants, can also add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and can, with eye-catching labeling,

make greening receive more attention.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of one morning or one evening. While doing the corrective work well, we will likewise

adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the extreme, and

likewise we ask Party A to offer more opinions, so that our work may gradually become more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organizes reasonably, maintains carefully, and dispatches professional horticulturists to organize, guide, and arrange management and protection work, and flexibly dispatches no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.

VI. Maintenance content

1. Management procedures: including watering, opening basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, and replanting missing plants (seedling costs calculated separately), and other whole sets of processes. {Care measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, weed-cutting machines, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, maintenance costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, topdress once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, water-fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth above 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, maintain the trees' natural growth state, with no need for shaping and pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, pest-diseased branches, shaded vigorous branches, and drooping branches obstructing vehicle passage, and promptly clean up pruned material. Clear weeds around the tree roots once a week, ensuring no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bag seedlings: fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer, etc., watering once within three hours after application, watering once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth above 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, prune into round, square, or conical shapes, with minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces, promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and pest-diseased branches, promptly replant old, diseased, and dead plants, and clear weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous types: fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer, etc., watering once within three hours after application, watering once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth above 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, cut off spent flowers once a week, clear weeds once a week, and promptly cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with even fertilizing and thorough watering, with water penetration depth above 5 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, promptly replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(II) Specific annual landscaping maintenance work schedule:

January: the month with the lowest temperatures of the year, when open-field trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, pest-diseased branches, and branches obstructing overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.

2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking conditions of street trees, and immediately rectify when loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, loose stakes, and other conditions are found.

3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig up and collect the pupae and cocoons of nettle grubs and burn them in a centralized manner. In mid-January, scale insects begin activity, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds, and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be promptly weeded and edged; in green spaces, pay attention to frost-prevention watering.

February: temperatures rise somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Before the end of the month, finish pruning all kinds of trees.

3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing nettle grubs and scale insects.

March: temperatures continue to rise; after mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.

1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do planning and design well, dig (hoe) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting, and watering are done promptly in sequence. When planting shrubs, likewise ensure digging, transporting, and planting are done promptly, and water sufficiently, to increase the seedling survival rate.

2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas promptly

3. Fertilizing: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Care measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion for control). To control nettle grubs, the method of digging up pupae can continue to be used.

April: temperatures continue to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom, or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.

1. Continue planting trees: In early April, seize the time to plant trees that bud late, promptly remove and replant shrubs that died over winter (azaleas, red-flowered loropetalum, etc.), and water newly planted trees thoroughly.

2. Watering: Continue timely watering of maintained green areas.

3. Fertilizing: For lawns and shrubs, in combination with watering, apply a top dressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: Cut out branches that dried up in winter and spring; evergreen hedges can be pruned.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molt, scale insects gradually move into bark crevices, tree holes, the base of trunks, wall corners and other places, where they secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom, then buried deep in a centralized pit or soaked. Alternatively, spraying pesticides such as fenitrothion can be used. (2) Longhorn beetles have begun activity; larvae can be removed with a grafting knife or self-made steel wire, but the wound should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance within green areas: Pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green areas. Lawn weeding and edging work should also be carried out.

May: Temperatures rise sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: During the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very high water demand and should be watered in a timely manner.

2. Pruning: Prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud-thinning pruning of street trees.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue focusing on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of slug moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; take corresponding measures according to the actual conditions in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, etc. also enters its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid-to-late May, spray 10-20 times diluted rosin mixture and 50% parathion methyl emulsion at 1500-2000 times dilution to prevent and control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)

June: High temperatures

1. Watering: Plants have a high water demand and must be watered in a timely manner; do not "leave it to the weather."

2. Fertilizing: Combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing, and watering to achieve the best results.

3. Pruning: Continue bud-thinning and sucker-removal work on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, ball-shaped plants, and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Drainage work: During heavy rain, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid-to-late June, slug moths enter their peak hatching period, and measures should be taken promptly; currently, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution is basically used. (Or spray with compound BT emulsion.) Continue manual catching of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees; right, reinforce, and re-tie trees that are loose or leaning.

July: Highest temperatures; after mid-month, strong winds and heavy rain may occur.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes and water promptly once high temperatures occur.

2. Drainage: Drain promptly after heavy rain.

3. Top dressing: Before rain, apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention bud-thinning pruning; all branches that conflict with power lines must be pruned, and tree stakes should be checked one by one; if any are loose or unstable, right and tie them immediately. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and assign people to inspect at any time so that dangerous situations are handled promptly.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. For longhorn beetles, inject 50% fenitrothion at a 1:50 dilution (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the opening, which can also achieve good results. Camphor tree camphor nest borers should be pruned out promptly, and the pest nests destroyed to prevent renewed damage.

August: Still the rainy season

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas promptly.

2. Typhoon prevention for street trees: Continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously, so weed promptly, and fertilization can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree camphor nest borers should be controlled promptly. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot diseases, and take timely measures. September: Temperatures decline somewhat; do relevant work well in welcome of National Day.

1. Pruning: In preparation for city appearance work, thin buds below the third-level branching of street trees. Shape hedges. Weed within green areas, edge lawns, promptly remove dead trees, and ensure trees have green branches and leaves and green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilizing: For trees that grow weakly and whose branches are not sufficiently solid, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot hole disease (cherry blossoms, peaches, plums, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to shift to root damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplars and willows. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of landscaping facilities.

October: Temperatures drop; in late October, early winter begins, trees begin to shed leaves, and they gradually enter dormancy.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late October, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green area maintenance: Promptly remove dead trees and water promptly. Do a good job of lawn weeding and edging in green areas and lawns. Fertilize flowering plants that are growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree camphor nest borers. November: The soil begins to freeze at night and thaw by day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-tolerant plants, completing before the soil freezes.

2. Turning the soil: Turn the soil in green areas to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: Water dry, compacted soil, completing before freezing.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late November, so control tasks are relatively light.

December: Low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green area maintenance quality objectives

1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed loess.

2 Garden plants

2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green areas reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replacement seedlings must survive within one year.

2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, with main and lateral branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned; the inner canopy is not chaotic, and ventilation and light transmission are good. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves, neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green areas.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and leaf size and color are normal. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect excrement or insect webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coniferous

Article Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting out dry branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and insect-damaged branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure tree development tends to be reasonable, improve branch form, and reduce the breeding of pests and diseases.

2. Appropriately thin trees that are too densely grown, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and carry out winter fertilization on all trees, ground cover, and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig up slug moth pupae and cocoons and burn them in a centralized manner.

5. As appropriate, scarify individual lawn types and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out lawn weeding, pruning, and fertilizing work.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on Mahonia fortunei and scale insects on coral plants and Fatsia japonica.

3. In particular, strengthen freeze protection and heat preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening soil and earthing up around tree roots.

4. Apply a top dressing (urea) once at the end of the month for cool-season lawns at 10g per mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees promptly.

2. Promptly roll lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: Strengthen observation and inspection, and do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple types and cool-season lawns; pay attention to prevention and reporting.

4. For local sunken and low-lying spots appearing in lawns, carry out earthing up and sand covering, and carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the germination and growth of the base grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply thin fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown flowering plants; for lawns and shrubs, in combination with watering, apply a top dressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut out branches that dried up in winter and spring, and begin pruning evergreen hedges.

3. Pest and disease control: Mainly control aphids, sooty mold, and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak leaf-unfolding period for trees, with a very high water demand, so water in a timely manner.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and Malus halliana, and promptly carry out bud thinning on plane trees, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle, and other trees.

3. Weed flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out lawn weeding and promptly prune lawn grass to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

June

1. Water plants promptly to ensure sufficient water supply.

2. Loosen soil and weed tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out lawn weeding.

3. Lawns should be pruned promptly, and their growth height controlled; pay attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so they can safely pass the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure that plant watering work is carried out.

2. Carry out soil loosening and weeding on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow quickly, so seize the opportunity to weed and remove grass to prevent grass overgrowth, and continue cultivation, weeding, and loosening the soil.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention; reinforce and secure trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying or seriously waterlogged places.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and prune promptly, control lawn height, and fertilization can be combined with weeding. Promptly supplement and topdress fertilizer, mainly P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer; for small seedlings, shrubs, and herbaceous flowers, apply thin fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to grasping the fertilization period and climate well.

3. Under high-temperature weather, daily watering and drought resistance work must be ensured, and it must not be chosen to be done from 10:00 to 15:00, so as to avoid burning seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue doing a good job of typhoon and flood prevention, further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge drainage ditches in low-lying and water-prone places to prevent water from accumulating for too long.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Weed within green areas and promptly remove dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Thin trees that are too densely grown, and at the same time carry out bud thinning work.

3. Lawns should be pruned, edged, and cleared of weeds promptly, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control.

4. Carry out weeding on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

October

1. Prune ball-shaped shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness, and distinct layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend to be reasonable and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted flowering plants, promptly fill gaps and water, and fertilize those growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light transmission, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth.

2. Do a good job of weeding and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs, and green areas, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant empty and bare spots. As appropriate, adjust trees in the local layout, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Begin cold protection and warmth work, and for trees with

poor cold resistance, carry out straw wrapping and earthing up.

3. Strengthen maintenance management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. As appropriate, scarify and aerate lawns, and at the same time prune 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilization work in late November, and carry out green area soil turning in combination with increasing organic fertilizer application.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job of weeding and edging in color-block shrubs and green areas, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing residual stumps and dead branches, in order to make trees grow better the next year (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to cleaning pest cocoons on trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palms, date palms, and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they overwinter safely.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records.

Article Four: "Latest Commonly Used Southern Landscape Plants"

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Taiwan podocarpus, long-leaf podocarpus, Michelia alba, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, Cinnamomum burmannii, camphor tree, cinnamon, Michelia odora, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, Siamese senna, red flower camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, Hong Kong orchid tree, almond, mango, Ormosia hosiei, water banyan, water stone banyan, avocado, plumeria, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon eucalyptus, river red gum, big-leaf eucalyptus, blue gum, paperbark tree, butterfly fruit, Torreya grandis, Cephalotaxus fortunei, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf fig, big-fruit fig, weeping fig, yellow banyan, bodhi tree, beefwood, jackfruit, Acer cinnamomifolium, Castanopsis sclerophylla, Cyclobalanopsis glauca, candlenut, silver oak, Elaeocarpus apiculatus, big-leaf elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, Ilex rotunda, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, Albizia falcataria, royal palm, fish-tail palm, Washingtonia, sugar palm, long-leaf date palm, autumn maple, red sandalwood, Dillenia indica, jackfruit, yellow locust, tree jackfruit, big-leaf privet, Michelia chapensis, Schefflera octophylla, Heteropanax fragrans

Deciduous trees:

Small-leaf terminalia, Chinese swamp cypress, water wax gourd, Chinese tallow, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, entire-leaf goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, big-leaf crape myrtle, beautiful silk floss tree, flame tree, peacock flower, jacaranda, yellow locust, chinaberry, Chinese mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, acacia, Kalopanax septemlobus, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, Indian

red sandalwood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, Aglaia odorata, large-leaf boxwood, Elaeagnus conferta, Camellia sasanqua, Viburnum odoratissimum var. awabuki, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Hypericum, Areca triandra, Areca palm, Chuniophoenix, Aglaia odorata, Allamanda cathartica, Justicia gendarussa, Callistemon, Carmona retusa, Gardenia jasminoides, Euphorbia milii, Poinsettia, Jasminum mesnyi, Aucuba, Chinese holly, Rhododendron, Cordyline fruticosa, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Acalypha wilkesiana 'Marginata', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Senna surattensis, Rhododendron ovatum, Ardisia japonica, Murraya paniculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Artabotrys hexapetalus, Camellia japonica, Camellia oleifera, Camellia sinensis, Nerium oleander, Thevetia peruviana, Allamanda cathartica, Serissa japonica, Michelia figo, Pittosporum tobira, Mahonia, Nandina domestica, Fatsia japonica, Magnolia coco, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus schizopetalus, Rhododendron simsii, Yucca gloriosa, Yucca, Buxus harlandii, Licuala, Phoenix roebelenii, Caryota mitis, Rhapis excelsa, Rhapis humilis,

Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus lyrata, Ficus salicifolia, Justicia aurea, Schefflera octophylla, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Justicia gendarussa, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria, Raphiolepis indica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', Euphorbia cotinifolia, Buxus sinica, Fagraea ceilanica, Brunfelsia pauciflora, Mussaenda, Crinum asiaticum, Hymenocallis, Calliandra, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura suaveolens, Mussaenda frondosa (white), Mussaenda frondosa (red), Rhododendron pulchrum, Rhododendron hybridum, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum sambac, Jatropha pandurifolia, Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Oxypetalum coeruleum, Papilio butterfly, Nandina domestica, Zanthoxylum beecheyanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis,

Deciduous shrubs:

Hibiscus mutabilis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea prunifolia, modern rose, Abelia chinensis, pomegranate, Callicarpa, Magnolia liliiflora, Lespedeza, Lonicera maackii, Hydrangea macrophylla, Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Prunus japonica, Spiraea prunifolia, Spiraea thunbergii, Butterfly tree, Sambucus, fig, Zanthoxylum, Poncirus trifoliata, Buddleja, Ligustrum sinense

Vines:

Monstera deliciosa, Bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, Pyrostegia venusta, Quisqualis indica, Akebia trifoliata, Lonicera japonica, Euonymus fortunei, Ficus pumila, kiwifruit, Euonymus fortunei var. radicans, Rhaphidophora hongkongensis, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Hoya, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epipremnum aureum, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedera nepalensis var. sinensis, Hedera helix, Kadsura japonica, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Campsis, Passiflora, Lagerstroemia indica, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Thunbergia grandiflora

Artabotrys hexapetalus, Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosum, Wisteria, Ficus pumila, Ipomoea quamoclit, Ipomoea, Ipomoea cairica, Snake vine, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Pseudocalymma alliaceum, Merremia tuberosa, Clytostoma callistegioides, Passiflora

Bamboo:

Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, Moso bamboo, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Phyllostachys glauca, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata', Bambusa emeiensis, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus amarus, Indocalamus tessellatus, Bambusa ventricosa, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, Bambusa oldhamii, Bambusa multiplex 'Variegata', Bambusa multiplex 'Stripestem', Bambusa multiplex 'Red'

Lawn and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass, Zoysia sinica, Zoysia tenuifolia, Axonopus compressus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Paspalum distichum, Manila grass, Zoysia japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia virginiana, Rhoeo spathacea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Curculigo capitulata, Liriope spicata, Reineckea carnea, Aspidistra elatior, Thunbergia alata, Acorus gramineus, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Lycoris aurea, Oxalis triangularis, Iris japonica, Oxalis corymbosa, Tradescantia zebrina,

Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea 'Compacta', Spathiphyllum, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Silver Margin', Lantana camara (red), Lantana camara (yellow), Lantana camara (purple)

Lantana camara, Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia brasiliana, Asparagus, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris, Lythrum, Narcissus, Lotus, Nymphaea, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera ficoides, Coleus, Verbena tenera, Alternanthera versicolor, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Hippeastrum, Lilium, Zantedeschia, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum 'Variegatum', Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

Palms:

Roystonea regia, Washingtonia, Dypsis decaryi, Roystonea oleracea, Wodyetia bifurcata, Butia capitata, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mascarena verschaffeltii, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix canariensis, Bismarckia nobilis, Elaeis guineensis, Caryota obtusa, Trachycarpus fortunei, Sabal, Livistona chinensis, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Caryota, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Washingtonia filifera, Phoenix canariensis, Caryota mitis, Caryota maxima, Areca palm, Areca triandra, Ravenala madagascariensis, Rhapis,

Seasonal flowers

Pentas, Impatiens walleriana, Begonia cucullata, Salvia splendens, Petunia, Dianthus hybridus, ornamental kale, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Tropaeolum majus, Viola tricolor, Torenia fournieri, Celosia, Calendula officinalis, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Portulaca grandiflora, Portulaca pilosa, Cosmos bipinnatus, Pericallis hybrida, Cleome spinosa, Hemerocallis, Lavandula, Lythrum

Chapter Five: "Southern Plant Configuration Examples"

Southern Plant Configuration

Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'

Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' + Dracaena fragrans 'Rainbow' + Nandina domestica + Nephrolepis cordifolia + ornamental stone

Roystonea regia + Caryota obtusa + Phoenix canariensis + Canna + Coleus + Codiaeum variegatum

Roystonea regia + Phoenix canariensis + Cordyline fruticosa 'Red' + Acalypha wilkesiana + Ixora chinensis

Roystonea regia + Archontophoenix alexandrae + Areca palm + Rhapis excelsa + Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves'

Chapter Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China"

Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards

I. Palms:

1. Roystonea regia 2. Archontophoenix alexandrae 3. Washingtonia 4. Phoenix sylvestris 5. Phoenix canariensis 6. Areca triandra

7. Livistona chinensis 8. Washingtonia filifera 9. Areca palm 10. Rhapis (fine-leaf Rhapis) 11. Syagrus romanzoffiana 12. Phoenix roebelenii

II. Trees (street trees, shade trees):

1. Delonix regia 2. Bombax ceiba 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. Erythrina variegata 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris

7. Ficus microcarpa 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. Mango 10. Melia azedarach 11. Cinnamomum 12. Lagerstroemia speciosa

13. Pterocarpus indicus 14. Plumeria 15. Terminalia catappa 16. Ravenala madagascariensis 17. Pandanus tectorius 18. Bischofia javanica

19. Carambola 20. Olea europaea 21. Cassia fistula 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Melaleuca leucadendra

24. Eucalyptus 25. Syzygium hainanense 26. Aphanamixis grandifolia 27. Bauhinia 28. Swietenia mahagoni

29. Ficus altissima 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia chrysantha 32. Koelreuteria bipinnata

III. Flowering shrubs:

1. Osmanthus fragrans 2. Bambusa multiplex 'Stripestem' 3. Cyathea 4. Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves' 5. Bougainvillea

6. Senna surattensis 7. Callistemon 8. Agave americana 'Marginata' 9. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 10. Fagraea ceilanica 11. Ficus variegata

12. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 13. Michelia figo 14. Campsis 15. Calliandra 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Ixora

18. Furcraea 19. Yucca 20. Pyrostegia venusta 21. Thevetia peruviana 22. Polyscias

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum tobira 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Epipremnum aureum 4. Asplenium nidus 5. Red gem 6. Alternanthera 7. Schefflera octophylla

8. Syngonium podophyllum 9. Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves' 10. Cuphea hyssopifolia 11. Liriope 12. Calathea 13. Rhododendron pulchrum

14. Livistona chinensis 'Dwarf' 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Duranta erecta 'Variegata' 17. Hymenocallis 18. Tradescantia zebrina 19. Allamanda cathartica

20. Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata' 21. Asparagus 22. Arachis pintoi 23. Ixora chinensis 'Dwarf' 24. Nephrolepis cordifolia 25. Pachystachys lutea

26. Oxalis triangularis 27. Pilea cadierei 28. Dieffenbachia 29. Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow' 30. Codiaeum variegatum 31. Ophiopogon japonicus

32. Ophiopogon japonicus 'Silver Margin' 33. Jasminum sambac 34. Calathea zebrina 35. Zoysia 36. Axonopus compressus

37. Manila grass 38. Bermuda grass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue

Some other commonly used plants:

1. Ficus religiosa 2. Ficus altissima 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. Campanula 5. National Day flower 6. Cassia fistula

7. Senna siamea 8. Kigelia 9. Thai yellow flowering ball 10. Melaleuca bracteata

11. Senna alata 12. Senna bicapsularis 13. Jatropha 14. Syzygium 15. Manglietia glauca

16. Hainan sago palm 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan ormosia 19. Mahogany

20. Albizia falcataria 21. Cinnamomum 22. Osmanthus fragrans (autumn) 23. Laurus nobilis 24. Washingtonia filifera 25. Bambusa multiplex 'Stripestem'

26. Pterocarpus indicus (yellow/purple) 27. Pterocarpus indicus 28. Dianella 29. Ficus 30. Markhamia

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China

1. Evergreen trees

Norfolk Island pine, Araucaria cunninghamii, Keteleeria, Araucaria bidwillii, Agathis, Masson pine, Slash pine, Camphor tree, Cinnamomum japonicum, Eucalyptus grandis x urophylla, Melaleuca leucadendra, Syzygium, Syzygium hainanense, Bischofia javanica, Acacia confusa, Acacia mangium, Acacia auriculiformis, Pterocarpus indicus, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus virens, Ficus altissima, Ficus superba, Ficus elastica, Ficus elastica 'Variegata', Ficus religiosa, Aleurites moluccana, Swietenia mahagoni, Dillenia, Alstonia scholaris, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia mantaly, Artocarpus heterophyllus, Syzygium samarangense, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Manilkara zapota, Melia azedarach, Casuarina equisetifolia, Michelia alba, Magnolia coco, Michelia macclurei, Elaeocarpus, Magnolia grandiflora, Hibiscus tiliaceus, Mango, Longan, Lychee, Chinese olive, Loquat, Waxberry, Pomelo, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus nagi, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, Camellia, Ficus benjamina, Butterfly fruit, Ficus tinctoria

2. Deciduous trees

Metasequoia, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, Glyptostrobus pensilis, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, Albizia lebbeck, Leucaena leucocephala, Liquidambar formosana, Salix babylonica, Kigelia, Neolamarckia cadamba, Grevillea robusta, Celtis sinensis, Sapindus, Pistacia chinensis, Melia azedarach, Sapium sebiferum, Vernicia montana, Ginkgo, Sterculia nobilis, Persimmon, Fig, Mulberry, Papaya, Guava, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acacia farnesiana

3. Palms

Archontophoenix alexandrae, Roystonea regia, Roystonea oleracea, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mascarena verschaffeltii, Dypsis decaryi, Wodyetia bifurcata, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Elaeis guineensis, Borassus flabellifer, Washingtonia robusta, Washingtonia, Phoenix canariensis, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix sylvestris, Livistona chinensis, Caryota obtusa, Arenga pinnata, Phoenix loureirii, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca triandra, Areca, Areca, Caryota maxima, Caryota mitis, Areca palm, Trachycarpus fortunei, Musa basjoo, Ravenala madagascariensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Rhapis, Rhapis humilis, Strelitzia nicolai, Philodendron 'Red Congo', Alocasia

4. Foliage shrubs

Ficus benjamina 'Golden Leaves', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus lyrata, Ficus salicifolia, Garcinia, Arundo donax 'Variegata', Polyalthia longifolia, Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', Cycas revoluta, Callistemon, Cestrum nocturnum, Cotinus coggygria, Justicia aurea, Fatsia japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Manihot esculenta 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Schefflera octophylla, Schefflera octophylla 'Variegata', Zanthoxylum beecheyanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Acalypha wilkesiana, Syringa japonica, Duranta erecta, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Murraya paniculata, Codiaeum variegatum, Codiaeum variegatum 'Hastatum', Codiaeum variegatum 'Hainan', Codiaeum variegatum 'Aucubaefolium', Justicia gendarussa, Carmona retusa, Buxus sinica, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Euphorbia milii, Furcraea 'Yellow Stripe', Agave, Agave americana 'Marginata', Yucca, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria, Cactus, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Scaevola taccada, Raphiolepis indica, Breynia disticha, Phyllanthus myrtifolius, Rosa

5. Flowering shrubs

Fagraea ceilanica, Brunfelsia pauciflora, Murraya paniculata, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus schizopetalus, Malvaviscus arboreus, Poinsettia, Calliandra, Bougainvillea, Gardenia jasminoides var. grandiflora, Hydrangea, Pachystachys, Melastoma, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura suaveolens, Mussaenda frondosa (white), Mussaenda frondosa (red), Allamanda, Rhododendron hybridum, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum sambac, Crinum asiaticum,

Hymenocallis, Schlumbergera, Canna 'Dwarf', Reinwardtia indica, Jatropha pandurifolia, Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Oxypetalum coeruleum, Papilio butterfly

6. Ground cover

Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea 'Compacta', Spathiphyllum, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Silver Margin', Lantana camara (red), Lantana camara (yellow), Lantana camara (purple), Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia brasiliana, Asparagus, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris, Lythrum, Narcissus, Lotus, Nymphaea, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera ficoides, Coleus, Verbena tenera, Alternanthera versicolor, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Hippeastrum, Lilium, Zantedeschia, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum 'Variegatum', Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosum, Wisteria, Ficus pumila, Ipomoea quamoclit, Ipomoea, Ipomoea cairica, Snake vine, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Pseudocalymma alliaceum, Merremia tuberosa, Clytostoma callistegioides, Passiflora

Chapter Seven: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Configurations in Southern China"

Practical Plant Configuration Table — Concise Table of Common Plant Configurations

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Salix matsudana, Salix babylonica, Salix, Salix psammophila, Salix viminalis, Salix wallichiana, Populus simonii, Populus maximowiczii, Sabina vulgaris, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Metasequoia, Melia azedarach, Pterocarya stenoptera, Fraxinus chinensis, Forsythia, Ulmus pumila, Ulmus laciniata, Ulmus parvifolia, Sapium sebiferum, Cherry blossom, Eucommia ulmoides, Koelreuteria, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Grape, Wisteria, Amorpha fruticosa, Tamarix, Ranunculus, Halerpestes, Ranunculus, Salix, Salix, Stachys, Stachys, Mint, Rorippa, Veronica, Watercress, Scirpus, Scirpus, Scirpus, Cyperus, Cyperus, Cyperus, Cyperus, Juncus, Juncus, Juncus, Juncus, Polygonum aviculare, Polygonum, Polygonum orientale, Polygonum caespitosum, Polygonum lapathifolium, Polygonum, Polygonum, Polygonum perfoliatum, Polygonum, Polygonum, Polygonum, Polygonum cuspidatum, Imperata cylindrica, Calamagrostis, Calamagrostis, Beckmannia, Polypogon, Arundinella, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Coix, Hemarthria, Wetland ground cover,

Emergent plants: Scirpus, Phragmites, Lotus root, Sagittaria sagittifolia, Carex, Alisma, Lotus, Lythrum, Typha, Monochoria, Monochoria korsakowii, Acorus calamus, Pontederia cordata, Rice, Kandelia, Narcissus, Oenanthe, Wild rice stem, Taro, Marsilea, Phragmites, Eleocharis dulcis, Scirpus, Heleocharis, Typha, Cyperus, Typha latifolia

Floating plants: Duckweed, Water hyacinth, Nymphaea, Euryale ferox, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphoides, Brasenia schreberi, Utricularia, Floating fern, Nymphoides,

Submerged plants: Ceratophyllum demersum, Ottelia alismoides

Colorful foliage plants:

Red or purple: Liquidambar formosana, Rhus verniciflua, Acer palmatum, Acer ginnala, Celastrus orbiculatus, Quercus rubra, Acer, Sapium sebiferum, Rhus typhina, Rhus chinensis, Sorbus, Nandina domestica, Euonymus, Crataegus, Pistacia chinensis, Pterocarya stenoptera, Berberis, Carpinus hupeana, Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Golden yellow or yellow-brown: Ginkgo, Persimmon, Koelreuteria, Liriodendron, Firmiana simplex, Ulmus, Walnut, Catalpa, Metasequoia, Lagerstroemia, Ulmus parvifolia, Phoebe, Ziziphus jujuba, Kiwifruit, Aesculus, Sorbus, Chimonanthus praecox, Pomegranate, Senna surattensis, Hamamelis, Sapindus, Acacia farnesiana

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: Mint, Basil, Lemon balm, Chamomile, Lemongrass, Sage, Dandelion, Calendula, Thyme, Borage, Scented geranium, Mallow and other herbaceous plants; Lavender, Rosemary, Gardenia, Rose, Lemon verbena and other shrubs.

Woody plants with fragrance rotating through the four seasons, for example: Plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; Gardenia and Michelia alba in summer; Osmanthus in autumn and Chimonanthus praecox in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-resistant plants: Black locust, Paulownia, Lacebark pine, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum odoratissimum var. awabuki, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: Taxus cuspidata 'Nana', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Torreya grandis, Ilex crenata, Cinnamomum camphora, Myrica rubra, Ligustrum lucidum, Ternstroemia, Viburnum, Aucuba, Mahonia, Pyracantha, Buxus, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc., Buddleja davidii, Pistacia chinensis, other fragrant flowering plants (such as Citrus plants in the Rutaceae family)

Perennial (herbaceous) flowers: Torch lily (Kniphofia), Lupinus, Festuca glauca, Astilbe, Coreopsis, Lysimachia, Oregano, Hibiscus moscheutos, Monarda, Trachelospermum 'Variegata', Osteospermum, Helleborus, Lycoris, Hemerocallis, Iris, Tradescantia, Hosta, Canna 'Variegata', Canna 'Red Leaf', Aster novi-belgii, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, Verbena

Flowers and trees of the four seasons:

Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus spectabilis, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia 'Red', Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), Cercis chinensis, red-leaf

Plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: Lagerstroemia, Hibiscus syriacus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Michelia figo, Rhododendron, Pomegranate (flower), Gardenia, Campsis, Albizia, Acacia farnesiana Autumn: Osmanthus, Lagerstroemia, Hibiscus syriacus, Flowering pomegranate, Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis, etc.

Winter: Lonicera, Nandina domestica, Plum blossom, Michelia figo, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc.

Classification diagram of common landscaping tree species:

(1) Evergreen conifers

1. Trees: Deodar cedar, Korean pine, Japanese black pine, Sabina chinensis, Masson pine, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria, Cryptomeria, Torreya grandis

2. Shrubs: (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Platycladus orientalis 'Sieboldii', Sabina, Juniperus procumbens, Cryptomeria japonica, Five-needle pine

(2) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):

Trees: Metasequoia, Pseudolarix, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum

(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:

1. Trees: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Ligustrum lucidum, Trachycarpus fortunei

2. Shrubs: Viburnum odoratissimum var. awabuki, large-leaf boxwood, Buxus sinica, Buxus sinica 'Japonica', Chinese holly, Citrus, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus, Nerium oleander, Jasminum, Winter jasmine, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Serissa japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Distylium, Camellia, Hypericum, Rhododendron, Yucca (Furcraea, Agave), Cycas revoluta, Mahonia

(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:

1. Trees: Salix babylonica, Salix, Pterocarya stenoptera, Salix babylonica 'Tortuosa', Sapium sebiferum, Sophora japonica, Firmiana simplex (Chinese parasol

tree), Platanus (London plane), Sophora japonica (Chinese scholar tree), Sophora japonica 'Pendula', Albizia julibrissin, Ginkgo, Melia azedarach, Catalpa

2. Shrubs: Cherry blossom, Magnolia denudata, Peach blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia, Cercis chinensis, Acer, Acer palmatum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Forsythia (golden bells), Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Alchornea (Guiyuan tree), Pomegranate

(5) Bamboo: Bambusa multiplex, Phyllostachys, Moso bamboo, Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata'

(6) Vines: Wisteria, Trachelospermum, Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy, climbing ivy), Hedera helix, Grape vine, Euonymus fortunei

(7) Flowers: Portulaca, Chrysanthemum, Salvia splendens, Canna, Alternanthera, Kale (ornamental cabbage), Chrysanthemum, Orchid

(8) Lawn: Velvet grass, Zoysia, Liriope, Evergreen grass, Tall fescue, Manila grass, Clover, Dichondra

Detailed Table of Common Plant Configurations

General Table of Common Street Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Large evergreen tree, alternate leaves, triplinerved, aromatic, berry spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Oval Likes warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown and dense shade, suitable as street tree and shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, likes warm-hot climate, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; red beautiful flowers, flowering period May~August

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Pink flowers, June~July, suitable as shade ornamental tree, street tree

Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Fabaceae (Mimosoideae) Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, densely branched and leafy, golden-yellow flowers, excellent tree vigour

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suited to low-lying wet ground, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, graceful tree form

Chinese banyan Ficus retusa Linn. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suited to various pruning styles

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, vigorous growth, handsome tree form

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, dark green leaf surface, vigorous growth, very beautiful posture

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree with rounded crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow growth, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (bead tree) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, roughly umbrella-shaped, pale purple flowers

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, handsome posture

Formosan alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry sites and hard soil, tall and handsome tree form

Ash tree Fraxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Hoop pine Araucaria cunninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm and hot climates, not cold-tolerant, prefers fertile soil, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture

Qinghai spruce Picea crassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, intermediate light requirements, shallow-rooted, suited to the northwest region

Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, slightly shade-tolerant, prefers cool and humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Taiwan acacia Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly crooked, strong growth vigour

Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, vigorous growth, handsome posture

Canary Island date palm (Canary date palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and sturdy, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,

Royal palm (king coconut) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18m in height, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool and temperate climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, fairly long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark grey-white

Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrowly cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of salinity and waterlogging, fast-growing

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow{Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Table of Common Landscape Tree Characteristics

Name Scientific name Family Tree form Characteristics

Camphor Cinnamomum camphora Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, doubly aromatic, berries spherical.

London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Broad crown and dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Yulan magnolia Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Fairly cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large and pure white, blooms in March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.

Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly crooked when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree posture

Ash tree Fraxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Java bishopwood Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, vigorous growth, beautiful tree posture

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suited to low-lying wet ground, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, graceful tree form

Chinese incense cedar Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark grey-brown, with irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green and flat when young.

Royal palm Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18m in height, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Japanese spindle tree Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Ovate Prefers warm and humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Formosan sweetgum Liquidambar formosana Hance Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark grey and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, handsome tree posture

Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Highly adaptable, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as a shade tree, street tree and bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping low shrub, branches and trunk spreading and trailing on the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, uniquely styled tree form, foliage emerald green and flowing. Suitable for ground cover and beautifying the surroundings of courtyard rocks, ponds, sand pits and slopes.{Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Golden dewdrop Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs and hedges. The yellow-leaved golden dewdrop is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, and can serve as ground cover, pruned into shapes, formed into patterns or used in colour-emphasis plantings, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, handsome posture

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Chinese juniper Juniperus chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium-sized tree, branches densely growing, dark green, vigorous growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree posture

Japanese pittosporum Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as a hedge or potted plant. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, can reach 20-25m in height, leaves grey-white with arched curvature, vigorous growth, beautiful tree posture

Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as a shade tree, street tree and bank-protection tree

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade and ornamental tree and street tree

Japanese black pine Pinus thunbergii Parl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark grey-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and borne two per bundle, long-lived

Purple-leaf cherry plum Prunus cerasifera F. atropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish-red, pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both specimen and group planting, as a foil for backgrounds.

Washington fan palm Washingtonia filifera H. Wendl. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single cylindrical trunk, swollen at the base, up to 4-8m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, vigorous growth, beautiful tree posture{Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Japanese pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as a shade tree and street tree

Glaucous cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, yellow flowers, fast-growing, beautiful tree posture

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow

Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Leaf shape elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for courtyard viewing and potted plants.

Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovate tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves well-spaced, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radiating, tree posture sturdy and upright.

Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a wine bottle shape, very beautiful posture

Mandarin orange tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Chinaberry Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark grey-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, fast-growing

Snowbush (Japanese serissa) Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Leaf colour dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, fine texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds and pruned shapes.

Dragon juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaizuka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Evergreen medium-sized tree, branches densely growing, dark green, vigorous growth, very long-lived, very beautiful tree posture

Dragon-claw pagoda tree S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches drooping, suitable for courtyard viewing, planted in pairs or rows

Dragon-claw willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a roaming dragon, suitable as a shade tree and ornamental tree

Pygmy date palm Phoenix roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, 2m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine Podocarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, rustic and elegant in bearing, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical or tiered forms for courtyard landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, majestic posture when large

Nandina (heavenly bamboo) Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; for courtyard viewing, can be group-planted or potted. Hoop pine Araucaria excelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree posture, vigorous growth

Glossy privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovate Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as a hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, can reach 6-12m in height, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, grows luxuriantly, elegant posture

Globe juniper Juniperus chinensis cv. Globosa Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree posture light and graceful, can be trained into noble-shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree and forest-bathing tree.

Boxleaf euonymus B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovate Branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for courtyard viewing. Can be group-planted, used as a hedge or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovate, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Palm Family Plants"

The palm family is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves gathered at the top of the stem, well-developed root systems, tolerant of drought and poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, and outstanding for creating tropical-style landscape effects. This edition introduces their introduction, transplanting and disease control.

Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2400 species of palm family plants worldwide, widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants, while a few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, for example the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can tolerate long-term water immersion, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fibre, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the false betel nut palm and the Chinese fan palm.

Since the 1940s, in urban construction throughout the world's many tropical and subtropical cities, the landscape value of palm plants has been recognised, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants from the early 1980s. Over the following twenty-odd years, the southern provinces and regions of Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, and later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan, all successively set off a wave of introducing, producing and applying palms.

Led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, several institutions, based on plant geography and ecology theory, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatised palm family plants, found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally possess cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude and high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatisation are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture and soil, among others. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development, and low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatisation; through research on palm salt tolerance and shade tolerance, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkaline tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, red palm weevil and other pests and diseases, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarised and invented palm seed germination-promotion techniques, mastered whole-crown transplanting and large-specification container seedling cultivation techniques for palm plants, and did highly effective work on soil improvement and winter cold-protection and maintenance techniques.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including the royal palm, Chinese fan palm, bamboo palm, southern coconut palm and fishtail palm; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the palm family plants successfully applied mainly include the Butia palm, woolly Washington palm, Canary Island date palm and Washington palm, more than ten species in total, and the related research techniques have been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking the Washington palm as an example

Discussing the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Disease

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease often occurs and causes damage on royal palms, large Chinese fan palms, Washington palms, Mexican fan palms, Canary Island date palms and other palm plants; in affected plants the central leaf cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora, and can be identified by culture in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splash, air movement and so on.

Occurrence Pattern of Phytophthora Disease in Washington Palm

This disease occurs during the high-temperature, high-humidity period between summer and autumn. After early drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, the soil moisture content

rises suddenly, poor ventilation, or plants located in a wind-gap position, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained plots and continuous-cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root injury caused when digging up seedlings, followed by long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young tender central leaf rots, and the leaf turns grey-green and droops, and it can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions at the growing point or even the whole central part of the plant, with a foul odour, and white mould-like matter can grow on the infected tissue. In severely affected plants, the roots are also often seen to be damaged, with the main symptoms being blackening and rotting of the roots, with an abnormal

smell. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries, and is less common in adult trees planted in green spaces.

Symptoms

In recent years it has occurred and caused fairly severe damage in nursery plots. In the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear on the parts close to the ground, the lesions rapidly expand and are slightly sunken, and when moist the surface is densely covered with white cottony mould, and the diseased part rots and smells foul. When it occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellow-brown, and white mould grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and softens, and in the later stage the upper part appears withered. This disease can harm the whole plant of palm plants. Sometimes when the root system and stem are cut open, pus-like liquid exudes, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves bear large amounts of grey-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease, and in severe cases the whole plant wilts and droops, dries up, until death, with a high fatality rate.

According to investigation, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature, high-humidity period, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of the western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes appearing in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness and drainage in the nursery; you can moderately prune leaves each autumn and winter, and dig trenches and earth up the planting site, etc., to keep the nursery site dry. Normally, potassium fertiliser can be applied additionally, and quicklime, superphosphate, etc. can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of the plants.

2. Choose good plots: select loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Practise crop rotation: plots where Washington palms have been grown require a rotation of three to four years or more.

4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertiliser, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Practise high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain, so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly in drought, and when watering strictly forbid flooding irrigation, and carry it out on sunny afternoons or in the evening.

5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Pay attention to observation at ordinary times, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the disease occurs in summer and during the disease period, use 64% oxadixyl-mancozeb wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminium (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as kameitong, that is, soil fungicide (usual amount 600 to 700 times), lime-sulphur mixture (1:1:100), dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington palms, first spray the planting site and the roots of the Washington palm with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or first dig the holes on consecutive sunny days and expose them to the sun for sterilisation, or sprinkle lime powder for disinfection, or use dexon 500 times solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray oxadixyl-mancozeb (better) or fosetyl-aluminium (prone to resistance), adding 0.4% washing powder, into the heart or as a spray for both prevention and treatment. You can also spray 80% mancozeb 700 times solution, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the Washington palms and woolly Washington palms at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Control Experience

The control effect of using carbendazim and the like is not obvious. In the early stage of the disease, if all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can successively revive after 2 to 3 years, but their growth is relatively poor.

It is understood that in high-temperature dry areas such as Los Angeles this disease rarely occurs, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater and rainwater, etc. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies massively when moisture is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease described in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the central leaf part.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, and when it occurs, water-soaked small spots appear, then expand into larger lesions, and it is easy to find, and generally can be controlled with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, and the common pathogens are Phyllosticta, Pestalotiopsis, etc., which often cause leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Large Single-Trunk Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance; after root pruning the soil ball should be twice the ground diameter, and the root-pruning depth should be 50 cm to 60 cm. After removing stones and broken roots, the root-pruning soil should be backfilled promptly, and moisture should be maintained: the purpose is to exercise the adaptability of the seedlings and promote new root growth. After root pruning it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If heeled-in seedlings are used, the effect is even better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the ground. Dig holes 20 days before transplanting at the planting site; the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. Let the soil from the holes be exposed to the sun in the open for a period; the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of decomposed phosphate fertiliser + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done all year round, best in spring and autumn, and summer and winter should be avoided as far as possible, especially January and July. Most palm family plants like warmth and moisture; in summer temperatures are high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, easily causing excessive water loss that affects survival; in winter temperatures are low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds easily cause frostbite or even death of seedlings.

Moving the Seedlings

Some large single-trunk palm family seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving the seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured; therefore, when moving the seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with gunny sacks or rice straw, especially the green wrapped trunk part at the boundary between trunk and petiole. This protects the trunk, and also maintains moisture and blocks sunlight. In addition, when lifting the seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, removing old leaves and retaining 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on the strength of the tree's vigour). At the same time, cut off the leaves together with the petiole by 1/5, to minimise water evaporation as much as possible.

Planting

Seedlings are best dug and planted the same day; if the time is too long the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted the same day, they should be covered with shade netting and sprayed with a small amount of water on the leaf surface every day, with good shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil Once the seedling is positioned, backfill the soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, shape the soil mound into a "water storage basin" slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering Water thoroughly to settle the roots immediately after backfilling; before watering, first use bamboo poles etc. to poke the loose soil around the soil ball firmly, until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The tying height is at 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-Planting Management

1. Moisture retention Spray the leaves and the trunk wrap twice a day, except on rainy days, spraying until the leaves and trunk wrap are moist. Do not water at the roots, because excess water will flow down and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw to block sunlight, prevent excessive soil temperature differences from causing soil compaction, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist and aerated, which is conducive to new root sprouting.

2. Wind protection Because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally relatively tall, and after transplanting are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds, the supports must be checked regularly after planting to see whether they have come loose; especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it must be straightened and tied promptly.

3. Topdressing: About one month after planting, urea water can be used as a foliar topdressing and sprayed on, with topdressing applied about once every half a month. After the first new leaf grows out and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. The holes should be dug in a ring-shaped trench outside the edge of the root ball, with the trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfilled soil.

4. Pest and disease control: Newly transplanted large single-trunk palm seedlings are relatively weak in vigor and highly susceptible to pests and diseases, especially the tender leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" causes quite serious damage to palm plants; adults and larvae gather in the overlapping spaces of the not-yet-unfolded heart leaves and gnaw the leaf tissue, causing some or all of the newly emerging leaves to wither and die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; ② cypermethrin at 500 times dilution; ③ using "Yejiaqing"; all can achieve very good control results. Based on practical operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and longest-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the heart leaf in combination with tying during planting for control.

For large single-trunk palm seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether their leaves remain green, but to truly confirm survival, it is generally necessary to wait until after one growing season and use whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author used the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and necessary to promote and apply.

Transplanting techniques for seedlings, large trees, and clustered seedlings

Key techniques for transplanting seedlings

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after they germinate and take root. At this time the seedlings are relatively small and can be transplanted with the seeds, and because they have few fibrous roots, the root system is not easily damaged during transplanting. Use nutritional bags for raising seedlings, with the size depending on the time for cultivating the seedlings. Generally speaking, for 1-year-old seedlings, containers of 16 cm x 18 cm are suitable, and for 2-year-old seedlings, 19 cm x 20 cm; nutritional bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutritional soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burned soil, and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a ratio of 5:2:1 with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, and then put into bags. First fill half the bag with the mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill the bag full and press firmly so that the seedling root system is closely attached to the mixed soil, then water thoroughly. Palm plants must not be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, lift the seedling upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key techniques for transplanting large trees

Palm plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most require several rounds of bed-to-bed transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings results in a higher survival rate.

Reduce damage to the root mass: Palm plant root tissues are tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When digging, keep as large a root ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize root mass damage as much as possible so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve the transplanting survival rate. During construction, lines should be accurately laid out and planting holes accurately positioned to avoid rework and prevent the root ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning: The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at the time of transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally, about 40% of the original number of leaves should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause the leaves to turn yellow and wither due to excessive water evaporation; retaining too few leaves will make plant recovery difficult and take a long period, and the initial landscape effect will also be poor.

Protect the plant's trunk and its pseudostem: During digging, transport, loading, and unloading of the plant, the trunk should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem should not be squeezed or bent; this is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.

Soil at the new planting site: Palm plants suffer root tip damage during transplanting, and within one month after transplanting it is difficult for new root tips to sprout, so their water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, if the soil has good permeability and aeration, it is conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of the imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to facilitate recovery after planting.

Maintenance: Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, so the seedlings should be carefully maintained, with timely water supplementation and appropriate shading, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover better, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.

Key techniques for transplanting large clustered seedlings

Clustered species of palm plants have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-trunk clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks and large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor ventilation making them susceptible to strong wind damage. Therefore, in addition to handling them according to single-trunk palm transplanting, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "hairy root method" for transplanting, that is, after digging out a relatively large root ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the root ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate root ball, and then immediately wrap it with lightweight moisture-retaining material, so as to reduce the weight of the root ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting slower-recovering clustered palms such as fishtail palm and three-stamened areca palm.

2. Implement bare-root temporary planting or potting and centralized maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes before formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as areca palm, Ptychosperma elegans, and Chamaedorea seifrizii, and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for the transplanting of large palm seedlings and large trees, in brief, five aspects should be done well, namely: select strong seedlings; dig good root balls and transport them carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure aeration and drainage at the planting site; and carry out post-planting maintenance with attention to sun protection and moisture retention. The sign for judging the success of transplanting large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves indicates complete transplanting success.

Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and as far as possible place the very bottom of the root ball at a position 100-150CM above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site and with deep, fertile soil. At the same time, build a drainage layer for the root system of the underground root ball and a surface runoff guidance network to prevent water accumulation in the root ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting on a raised root ball can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand to meet the above requirements as much as possible, then place the plant on the soil mound and fill around the root ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose medium, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots, so as to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: Immediately after planting, water once with the settling water to ensure the root ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil and to promote root development; then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the root ball to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, spray water on the ground and tree crown more often to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have their leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit the plant's physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. under clear weather conditions, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen the leaves' water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the root ball and roots at any time and replenish water in time to ensure the root ball remains moist and the roots can breathe freely. Fertilization: After planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, foliar fertilizer can be appropriately sprayed at low concentration to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant, and if new roots are found, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is above 2O℃, mainly applying organic fertilizer and appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, so as to promote balanced nutrition of the plant and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: Spray pesticides to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed before unloading, and ensure that within one month after planting, pesticides are applied three times consecutively at intervals of one week to ten days, after which a reasonable pest and disease control plan should still be formulated. Special

Part Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Sidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening

Mai

in

te

nance

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Sidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, and the factory green space area is 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration for greening in the factory area is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and with obvious seasonal changes, forming a layered and naturally ecological plant community that basically displays the natural landscape of the plants. The arrangement of flowering shrubs and hedges among the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle have been planted in the factory area, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and a gatehouse scenic spot composed of varieties such as ancient red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.

In view of the existing situation of the factory greening landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, and the understanding of plant habits was insufficient. In particular, the replacement of planting soil in the greening land was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Greening Maintenance Plan Schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Frequently check cold-protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold-protection wrappings.

3. Turn the soil for winter plowing and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Prune dead, damaged, diseased, and pest-infested branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue pruning diseased and pest-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).

3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, prepare culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insecticidal and disease-prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do a good job in controlling pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, as well as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and fertilizing before flowering. Apply dilute fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.

4. Clear and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Perform post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning for shrubs that bloomed in spring. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root sprouts of seedlings at any time.

2. Continue strengthening tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final spacing of seedlings, increase topdressing, and frequently apply dilute fertilizer.

3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases cause extensive damage to trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and forecasting, and pest and disease prevention should be done well.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue removing weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Perform post-flowering pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers, so attention should be paid to control, and at the same time continue controlling anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.

3. During the dog days, when temperatures are high and rainfall is low, irrigation is needed to resist drought. This month is also a month with more heavy rain, so attention should be paid to preventing waterlogging.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely straightening of wind-toppled trees.

August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal seedling growth.

3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so topdressing should be applied in time, and for small seedlings apply dilute fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and straighten wind-toppled trees promptly when found.

5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue doing a good job in pest elimination and disease control; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood moth borers, etc., and once found, control immediately.

2. Continue intertillage weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn mowing, and perform shaping and pruning of ball-shaped plants and hedges.

3. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the conditions of pests and diseases that occur more frequently, such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them in time.

October (Cold Dew, Frost Descent)

1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adults and eggs.

2. Continue intertillage weeding.

3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate and clarify the inventory to ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.

November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewashing some trees, or wrapping them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter pruning of trees, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; egg-bearing branches and competing branches, excessive

Introduction to Dahlia Planting and Cultivation

Name: Dahlia

Dahlia aliases: dahlia chrysanthemum, celestial bamboo peony, shao peony, sweet potato flower, Dali flower, passionflower, foreign chrysanthemum

Scientific name: Dahlia pinnata Cav.

English name: Dahlia, Garden Dahlia

Family name: Asteraceae Compositae, Dahlia genus

Flower language: Dahlia - great fortune and great profit. French flower language: Dahlia——gratitude, freshness, novelty, new meaning

Dahlia is a perennial herb in the Asteraceae family. Chrysanthemums bloom proudly in frost, but dahlias are different: they bloom successively between spring and summer, bloom again after passing through summer, and wither at frost descent. Its flower shape resembles the peerlessly beautiful peony, and its colors are magnificent and varied, making it beloved.

Dahlia is the national flower of Mexico, the city flower of Seattle, the provincial flower of Jilin Province, and the city flower of Zhangjiakou City, Hebei Province. The gorgeous and varied dahlia symbolizes generosity, magnificence, and great fortune and great profit. Today, its footprint has spread to countries around the world, becoming a frequent guest in gardens and a world-famous ornamental flower.

Dahlia is easy to propagate; sowing, cuttings, and root division are all possible. It likes sunlight and loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Grafting when it has just sprouted can produce colorful dahlias and dahlia chrysanthemums.

Dahlia is suitable for flower beds, flower borders, or clump planting in front of courtyards, and dwarf varieties can be potted. The flowers are used to make cut flowers, flower baskets, garlands, etc. The tuberous roots contain inulin, which is similar to glucose in medicine. The whole plant can be used as medicine and has the effect of clearing heat and detoxifying.

Dahlia regions

The hometown of dahlia is the Mexican plateau at an altitude of 1500 m. It is neither cold-tolerant nor heat-tolerant, and the climate there is cool and mild, with a period of low temperature for dormancy. In places such as Liaoning and Jilin in China, the climate is suitable and dahlias grow well.

Dahlia has thick hammer-shaped fleshy tuberous roots. Plant height varies from tall to short depending on the variety. Leaves are opposite, 1-3 times pinnately divided, with ovate lobes and coarse blunt serrations. Flowers are borne at the top of the stalk. Dahlia is welcomed for its long flowering period, blooming continuously from autumn to spring, with each flower lasting 1 month and the flowering period lasting half a year. In southern China, it blooms from February to June in spring.

Dahlia characteristics

Dahlia is also known as passionflower and dahlia chrysanthemum. To cultivate dahlia well, one needs to grasp its four major characteristics:
(1) Likes moisture and fears waterlogging. Dahlia fears drought and avoids water accumulation. This is because dahlia has fleshy tuberous roots, and excessive watering easily causes root rot. However, its leaves are large and its growth is luxuriant, so it also needs more water. If it wilts due to lack of water and cannot be replenished in time, after sunlight exposure, in mild cases the leaf edges scorch, and in severe cases the basal leaves fall off. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of "water thoroughly only after the soil has dried out."
(2) Likes fertility and fears excess. For planting dahlia, choose fertile, loose soil; in addition to base fertilizer, topdressing is also needed. Usually from mid-to-late July until flowering, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 7-10 days, and the fertilizer concentration should gradually increase so that the stems grow thicker and stronger and the leaves become dark green and spread out.
(3) Likes sunlight and fears shade. Dahlia likes sufficient sunlight. If placed in a shaded place for a long time, it will grow poorly, with a weakened root system, thin leaves and slender stems, small and pale flowers, and it may even fail to bloom. Only by planting it in a place with sufficient sunlight can the plant grow robustly and produce bright flowers.
(4) Likes coolness and fears heat. Dahlia likes a cool climate during flowering, and grows best at a temperature of about 20℃. In North China and other places, it can grow well from late spring to late autumn. However, it fears direct exposure to the hot summer sun, especially sudden exposure after rain; at such times it should be slightly shaded, and then it will grow better.

Dahlia propagation methods

Mainly by root division and cuttings, with seed propagation used for breeding.

1. Root division propagation

This method is the most commonly used. Because dahlia can sprout only from the root crown, when dividing, part of the root crown must be included, otherwise new plants cannot sprout. To facilitate identification, the pre-burying method is often used to force sprouting, and after adventitious buds on the root crown sprout, they are divided and planted. The root division method is simple and easy to carry out, with a high survival rate and strong seedlings, but the number of propagated plants is limited. 2. Cutting propagation is the main propagation method for dahlia, with a high propagation coefficient. It is generally carried out in early spring, and can also be done in summer and autumn, with the highest survival rate for cuttings in a greenhouse or hotbed in March to April. Cuttings are taken from sprouted tuberous roots. When a pair of leaves at the base of a new bud unfolds, they can be peeled from the base for cuttings. They can also be taken by leaving more than one node at the base of the new bud, and later, as growth continues, tender buds at axillary buds can be taken, thus obtaining more cuttings. Spring cuttings, after full growth through summer and autumn, can bloom in the same year. From June to early August, buds can be taken from growing plants for summer cuttings, but the survival rate is lower than for spring cuttings; cuttings in September to October have a survival rate lower than spring but higher than summer cuttings. The cutting medium should preferably be sandy loam with a small amount of leaf mold or peat.

3. Seed propagation is limited to flower bed varieties and breeding applications. In summer, seed setting is often poor due to damp heat, so seeds are mostly collected from those that mature after the autumn turns cool. Drooping-petal varieties are not easy to obtain seeds from and require artificial supplementary pollination. Sowing is generally carried out in sowing boxes at about 20 C, and they sprout and emerge in 4-5 days. After true leaves grow, they are transplanted separately and bloom after 1-2 years.

Cultivation methods

The stems of dahlia are crisp and tender, cannot withstand strong winds, and also fear waterlogging. For field planting, choose a place with high, dry terrain, good drainage, sufficient sunlight, and shelter from wind, and make raised beds. The plant spacing is generally about 1 m for standard varieties and 40 cm-50 cm for dwarf varieties. Dahlia stems are tall, juicy, and tender, so supports should be set up to prevent wind breakage. Watering should follow the principle of watering only after the soil has dried out. After consecutive cloudy days in summer followed by sudden bright sun, promptly spray clear water on the ground and leaves to lower the temperature, otherwise the leaves will develop scorched edges and turn yellow and wither. During the dog days when there is no rain, in addition to watering every day, also spray water to lower the temperature. After buds become visible, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10 days until the flower buds color up. Before frost, leave 10 cm-15 cm of root crown, cut off the branches and leaves, dig up the tuberous roots, dry them in place for 1-2 days, then pile them indoors and store them in dry sand. The storage room temperature is about 5C.

For potted dahlia, it is better to repot multiple times. Choose a shallow pot with a large opening, and at the same time make the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot as large as possible, with a layer of broken tiles placed underneath as a drainage layer. The culture soil must contain half sandy soil. The last repotting needs sufficient base fertilizer to provide adequate nutrition; other management is the same as for field planting. For dahlia chrysanthemum used as cut flowers, the key cultivation points are the same as for field planting, with plant spacing of 50 cm-100 cm, applying liquid fertilizer once every half month during the peak growth season, appropriately pinching, and retaining more side branches.

Cultivation management

Mostly propagated by cuttings and sowing, mainly by cuttings, generally carried out in September-October.

① The time for potting is generally mid-October, with 1-2 plants per pot;

② When the seedlings grow to 10-12 cm tall, leave 2 nodes and pinch off the top, cultivating 6-8 branches per pot; the last pinching is carried out 40-50 days before the Spring Festival so as to control flowering during the Spring Festival;

③ Watering: water 2-3 times a day; before blooming is needed, appropriately control water to promote flowering;

④ Fertilization: mainly apply nitrogen fertilizer in the early stage and mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the later stage. Generally apply inorganic fertilizer once every 10 days and organic fertilizer once a month

⑤ Pest and disease control: spray pesticides regularly to protect the basal leaves;

⑥ Staking with bamboo: after the last pinching and branch fixing, begin staking with bamboo, one bamboo strip per branch, and at the same time remove excess side branches to improve ventilation;

⑦ Bud thinning: when flower buds grow to the size of a peanut, keep 2 flower buds per branch and remove the others;

⑧ Final bud setting: when the flower buds show red, keep only 1 flower bud per branch.

Key points for potting: The key to whether potted dahlia grows well lies in strengthening management of the plant's potting soil, giving sufficient light, frequently applying water and fertilizer, and timely shaping and pruning management.
(1) Management of potting soil
Dahlia is suitable for growing in loose, humus-rich, well-drained sandy loam. For potting soil for planting potted dahlia, generally a culture soil prepared with vegetable garden soil (50%), leaf mold (20%), sandy soil (20%), and dried manure (10%) is suitable. Compacted soil easily causes waterlogging and root rot and cannot be used. In daily management, loosen the soil in time and remove accumulated water in the pot, because dahlia's fleshy tuberous roots rot when the soil contains too much water and aeration is poor.

(2) Light

Dahlias love light and cannot tolerate shade. If kept in a shaded spot for a long time, they grow poorly: the root system weakens, the leaves become thin, the stems slender, and the flowers small and pale; some may even fail to bloom. For this reason, potted dahlias should be placed in a spot with plenty of sunlight. The leaves need ample, even light, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, so that the plants grow strong and the flowers are large and full. If daily sunlight is less than 4 hours, branching of stems and leaves and the formation of flower buds will be affected to some degree; especially under overcast, rainy conditions with little light, flowering will be poor, stems and leaves will grow poorly, and the plants will be prone to disease.

(3) Water frequently

Dahlias like water but hate waterlogging; they fear both flooding and drought. This is because the large-flowered types have fleshy tuberous roots, and too much water easily causes root rot. But dahlias have lush branches and leaves and a high rate of evaporation, so they also need a fair amount of water. If a plant wilts from lack of water and is not watered in time, and is then exposed to sunlight, in mild cases the leaf edges scorch, and in severe cases the lower leaves drop off. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of "water thoroughly only when the soil has dried out." Generally, in the early growth stage, when the plants are still small seedlings, the water requirement is limited; on sunny days, water once a day, keeping the soil slightly moist, as both too dry and too wet are unsuitable. In the later growth stage, when branches and leaves are lush, water consumption is greater; on sunny days or days with a north wind, note that the plants tend to run short of water around noon or in the evening, so the amount of watering should be increased appropriately.

(4) Fertilize appropriately
Dahlia is a flowering plant that loves fertilizer. Starting from the seedling stage, generally apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. After flower buds appear, apply once every 7-10 days. Once the flower buds begin to show color, fertilization should stop. Fertilizer should also not be applied when temperatures are high. The amount of fertilizer depends on the plant's growth. If the leaves are pale and thin, this indicates a lack of fertilizer; conversely, if there is too much fertilizer, the leaf edges scorch or the leaf tips turn yellow, while thick, deeply colored, dark green leaves indicate that fertilization is appropriate. The concentration of the fertilizer should be increased each time, which helps make the stems stout.

(5) Shaping and pruning in pots
Pruning of dahlias should be handled flexibly according to the variety. Generally, large varieties are trained to a single stem, while medium varieties are trained to 4 stems. Single-stem training means keeping the terminal bud and removing all axillary buds, so that nutrients are concentrated, forming a short, large-flowered single-stem dahlia. For 4-stem dahlias, pinch out the growing tip of the seedling, keep the two basal nodes, and let them form 4 side branches; keep the terminal bud on each side branch, giving a potted dahlia with 4 stems and 4 flowers.

(6) Staking to support the plant
The stems of dahlias are both hollow and brittle, and are easily blown over and broken by the wind, so bamboo stakes should be inserted in good time to support them; staking can also prevent the branches from growing crooked and improves the ornamental value of the potted plant. When the plant grows taller than 30 cm, insert a small bamboo stake beside each branch and tie it in place with hemp fiber (or thin string). As the plant grows taller, replace the stakes with longer ones in good time, and the last small stake inserted should reach up to the lower part of the flower bud. (7) Protecting the plant through the winter safely. Dahlias are not cold-hardy (mainly, the tuberous roots must not freeze). In November, after the branches and leaves wither, cut off the above-ground part, move the plant indoors, and keep it in its original pot. Alternatively, take out the tuberous roots, let them dry for 1-2 days, and bury them indoors in slightly damp sandy soil at a temperature not exceeding 5°C, then pot them up again the following spring.

Preventing pests and diseases in dahlias

The pests and diseases that dahlias are prone to during cultivation include: powdery mildew, flower rot, stem borers, and red spider mites.

(1) Dahlia powdery mildew

The disease is severe from September to November; high temperature and high humidity promote its occurrence. After infection, plants are stunted, the leaf surface becomes uneven or curled, and young shoots develop deformities. Once flower buds are infected, they fail to open or produce only deformed flowers. In severe cases, the disease can cause the leaves to dry up and even kill the whole plant.

Prevention and control methods:

① Strengthen care so that the plants grow vigorously and their disease resistance improves. Control watering and apply more phosphorus fertilizer.

② When the disease occurs, promptly remove diseased leaves and spray with a 50% amobam aqueous solution at 800 times dilution or a 70% thiophanate-methyl solution at 000 times dilution for control.

(2) Dahlia flower rot.

It mostly occurs from full bloom to the end of flowering; when soil moisture is on the high side and soil temperature is rather high, the disease is more likely to occur. When petals are infected, the spots are initially faded green, then turn yellowish brown; as the spots expand they become irregular in shape and range from yellowish brown to grayish brown.

Prevention and control methods

① Improve ventilation and light penetration between plants; in the later stage, neither water nor nitrogen fertilizer should be used too much, and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied.

② After the bud stage, spray with 0.5% Bordeaux mixture or a 70% thiophanate-methyl solution at 1500 times dilution, once every 7-10 days, which gives good control results.

(3) Dahlia stem borer

This insect mainly harms dahlias and chrysanthemums, with the larvae boring into the stems to cause damage. In severe infestations, the plants cannot bloom and may even be ruined.

Prevention and control methods: generally from June to September, spray once about every 20 days with a 90% trichlorfon technical powder at 800 times dilution, which can kill newly hatched larvae.

(4) Red spider mite

The red spider mite is the carmine spider mite; see the section on controlling the carmine spider mite under "Jasmine."

Dahlia is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant with fleshy roots in the Asteraceae family. The leaves are opposite, with 1-3 deep lobes, and serrated leaf margins. The flower heads are terminal, with flower colors including purple-red, peach red, pink, and bicolor. (5) Dahlia cotton leafhopper pest

Damage: adults and nymphs suck sap on the undersides of the leaves, causing yellowish brown spots to appear on the leaf surface; the leaves wrinkle toward the underside, and in severe cases the whole leaf discolors and scorches.

Prevention and control methods: A. Along with pruning, cut off and dispose of damaged branches and leaves to reduce the source of the pest. B. During the adult damage period, use lights to trap and kill adults. C. During the occurrence period of nymphs and adults, spray with 90% crystalline trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution, or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500 times dilution, or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 1500-2000 times dilution for control. The number of sprays depends on the pest situation, generally once about every 10 days.