What to Do When Phalaenopsis Leaves Turn Yellow, Soften and Split? Post-Blooming Care Methods
Phalaenopsis flowers bloom on very long spikes, and they are very beautiful when in bloom. What should you do after they finish blooming? If you cut the spike, will it bloom again next year? How did it get to the point where the leaves turn yellow, soften, and even split? How can this be solved? Let's take a look together with Women's Web:
How to care for Phalaenopsis after blooming:
1. Should you cut the flower spike after Phalaenopsis blooms
After Phalaenopsis finishes blooming, the flower stem can be cut, but it is best not to cut it all off (decide based on the condition of the whole plant; if the roots and leaves are very healthy and strong, it is recommended to keep a few nodes of the flower stem, and generally after about 2 months new flower buds can emerge). Cut it off near the first flower or the first branch. The remaining spent flower stalk still has buds, and after a certain period of care it can sprout again. For orchids, do not let them set seed, because even if they can set seed, propagating from seed is very difficult, and the process of setting seed consumes nutrients. Whether to fertilize should be determined after blooming by observing the plant's growth condition.
2. How to keep Phalaenopsis alive after blooming
After Phalaenopsis blooms, you can give it a little slow-release fertilizer. It should be placed in bright, indirect light. Water when dry, spray frequently, and be careful not to wet new shoots, otherwise they rot easily. In summer, place it in a cool, ventilated spot. In winter, it is best not to let it go below 15 degrees.
Phalaenopsis leaves turning yellow and soft:
With too much water, orchids easily suffer root rot. Starting now, do not give it water for half a month. After half a month, use the soaking method to water it.
That is, use a large container filled with water and place the orchid pot into the container. The water level should preferably be at 2/3 of the pot, allowing water to seep into the pot little by little. When moisture appears on the soil surface in the pot, touch it with your hand; once your hand feels moisture, this watering is complete.
After that, water once with this method about every 10 days. On the second watering with this method, you can use a bit more water. From the third time onward, the water amount can be the same as the second time. Try it; perhaps it can save your flower.
If it has pests or disease, and if it is the first two, then you not only need to reduce the water amount but also treat it with the right remedy to rescue it. That way it will need to be re-learned.
When leaves turn yellow and soft, pay attention to watering and do not keep it too wet. Phalaenopsis relatively likes sunlight, so let it get more sun.
What to do if Phalaenopsis leaves split?
When Phalaenopsis leaves split, it is generally due to the environment being too dry, especially in the north, where the weather is particularly dry. This situation is very common.
Newly bought Phalaenopsis are relatively more likely to have split leaves, because such Phalaenopsis are generally grown in greenhouses with a constant-temperature environment. High humidity plus rapid growth make the leaves crisp and tender. After being bought and taken home, the environment suddenly changes, and humidity, temperature, and so on all change greatly. Add to that a careless moment when a leaf is folded inward, and it splits open. However, there is no need to worry about this situation. After some time, once the orchid slowly adapts to the existing environment, it will slowly heal on its own.
Method: After this situation occurs, spray water on the leaf surface, or spray water around the orchid to increase the humidity of the surrounding environment. In fact, opinions on this method are mixed. Some say it is very effective, but some netizens question its feasibility, believing that if you spray water, the moisture evaporates quickly and has little effect, and that long-term water accumulation on the leaf surface can cause problems such as soft rot and blight.
Although Phalaenopsis is a relatively noble flower, it is still quite difficult to grow it well. In the process of growing Phalaenopsis, leaves often easily turn yellow and split. When this happens, you need to look at the solutions to avoid the Phalaenopsis dying. The price of Phalaenopsis is still a bit expensive.
Phalaenopsis Phalaenopsis amabilis Phalaenopsis illustrated guide: how to grow Phalaenopsis / how to propagate Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis profilePhalaenopsis Phalaenopsis amabilis
Phalaenopsis cultivation methods and precautions Phalaenopsis introduction
Phalaenopsis was discovered in 1750. More than 70 native species have been discovered, most of them produced in humid Asian regions. They are distributed in Taiwan, China, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia, and other places. Among them, Taiwan produces the most. The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous type of cut flower. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "Queen of Orchids."
Morphological characteristics of Phalaenopsis
There are about 100 species of Phalaenopsis, native to Europe and Asia, North Africa, North America, and Central America. Two very famous species: Platanthera chlorantha has white flowers and is relatively small; Platanthera hologlottis has large greenish-white flowers and a relatively large plant form. Both have 5 to 15 fragrant flowers, clustered into a spike-like inflorescence!
The stem of Phalaenopsis is very short and often enclosed by leaf sheaths. The leaves are slightly fleshy, usually 3 to 4 or more, green on the front and also green on the back, elliptical, oblong, or sickle-shaped oblong, 10 to 20 cm long and 3 to 6 cm wide, with an acute or obtuse tip, a wedge-shaped or sometimes skewed base, and a short but wide sheath. The inflorescence is lateral at the base of the stem, up to 50 cm long, unbranched or sometimes branched; the inflorescence stalk is green, 4 to 5 mm thick, covered with several scale-like sheaths; the inflorescence axis is purple-green, more or less zigzagged, usually with several flowers opening one by one from the base toward the tip; the floral bracts are ovate-triangular, 3 to 5 mm long; the pedicel together with the ovary is green, slender, 2.5 to 4.5 cm long; the flowers are white, beautiful, and long-lasting; the dorsal sepal is nearly elliptical, 2.5 to 3 cm long and 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, with an obtuse tip, slightly narrowed at the base, and with reticulate veins; the lateral sepals are skewed ovate, 2.6 to 3.5 cm long and 1.4 to 2.2 cm wide, with an obtuse tip, narrowed at the base and attached to the column foot, with reticulate veins; the petals are rhombic-circular, 2.7 to 3.4 cm long and 2.4 to 3.8 cm wide, with a rounded tip, narrowed at the base into a short claw, with reticulate veins; the lip is 3-lobed, with a claw about 7 to 9 mm long at the base; the lateral lobes are upright, obovate, 2 cm long, with a rounded or acute tip, narrowed at the base, with red spots or fine stripes, and at the intersection between the two lateral lobes and the base of the midlobe there is 1 yellow fleshy callus; the midlobe is rhombic, 1.5 to 2.8 cm long and 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, gradually narrowed at the tip and with 2 tendrils 8 to 18 mm long, wedge-shaped at the base; the column is stout, about 1 cm long, with a broad column foot; there are 2 pollinia, nearly spherical, each splitting into 2 unequal parts. Flowering period April to June!
The scientific name of Phalaenopsis means, according to the original Greek meaning, "an orchid resembling a butterfly." It can absorb nutrients from the air to survive and belongs to the category of aerial orchids. It can be said to be a large family among tropical orchids. Its plant is very peculiar: it has neither stolons nor pseudobulbs. Each plant grows only several broad leaves that look like fat spoons, alternately stacked above the base. Thick white aerial roots are exposed around the leaves, and some climb on the outer wall of the flowerpot, full of natural wild charm. When the New Year season arrives, a flower stalk up to a full chi long emerges from the leaf axil, and then opens one flower after another. Each flower has 5 sepals, with a lip inserted in the middle. The flower colors are bright and dazzling, including pure white, goose yellow, and crimson, as well as pale purple, orange-red, and azure blue. Many varieties have two or three colors, some as if embroidered with patterned stripes, and some as if sprayed with evenly colored dots. Each stem bears seven or eight flowers, and at most twelve or thirteen, and can be enjoyed continuously for sixty or seventy days!
The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous type of cut flower, with more than 50 species in the whole genus. It is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "Queen of Orchids"!
Phalaenopsis has a graceful flower posture and many elegant flower colors, and is named for its butterfly-like flower shape. It is widely cultivated in countries around the world. Although it belongs to aerial orchids, it has no pseudobulbs, only a very short stem at the base. The leaves are wide and thick, long elliptical, and can reach more than 50 cm. Some varieties have beautiful pale silver mottling on the leaves, with purple underneath. The flower stalk emerges from the leaf axil, slightly curved, of varying lengths, with several to hundreds of flowers, shaped like butterflies. The sepals are long elliptical, and the tip of the lip is three-lobed. There are many flower colors, and it can bloom for more than one month. Abroad, it is mostly used as a cut flower and is a high-grade item among Western orchids. Most Phalaenopsis have no scent, and only a few have a scent. We call it fragrant Phalaenopsis. This kind of Phalaenopsis is very rare, but many people say after smelling it that it is a bad smell, and some people who work near those flowers are made to have headaches by the fumes!
Ecological habits of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated environment; it is not tolerant of waterlogging, tolerates semi-shade, avoids direct sun, avoids water accumulation, fears cold, and its suitable growth temperature is 22 to 28°C, with wintering temperature not lower than 15°C!
Phalaenopsis cultivation techniques and cultivation conditions
(1) Temperature
Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15 and 34°C. Suitable temperatures are as follows: 26 to 27°C during the growth stage, 19 to 21°C during the flowering stage. In order to obtain more flower stems, the temperature can be maintained at 18 to 20°C for a total of 4 to 8 weeks. When light is insufficient or the daytime temperature is too high, maintain 18°C to strengthen flower forcing (induce flower bud formation). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is above 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.
(2) Light quantity
1. In the Netherlands region
To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Excessive light causes scorch marks on the leaves. Too low a light quantity (below 100W/㎡) causes stagnant plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development, and poor root development. The appropriate light quantity is 2002. In summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/㎡), use 80 to 85% shade netting.
2. In tropical regions
A shading capacity of 80 to 90% needs to be maintained. Usually a fixed net with 65% shade and another set of movable net with 65% shade are used. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheeting roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce rainwater leaching of the medium. (Note: This paragraph addresses simple rain-shelter facilities in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses.)
The appropriate light quantities are as follows:
Growth stage: 5000 to 8000 lux
Flowering stage: 8000 to 15000 lux
In regions with generally year-round sunlight, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention should be paid to the refraction of light so that all orchid leaves receive even light. At high light quantities, a relatively higher relative humidity should be maintained.
(3) Artificial supplementary lighting
Artificial supplementary lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:
Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses;
Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development;
Flowering stage: helps flower stem and flower bud development, reduces flower bud loss, and increases quality.
In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12 to 14 hours and 3500 to 4000 lux of light, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light on sunny days will cause the leaves to turn red, thereby causing stagnant growth. In addition, orchid plants should maintain at least 8 hours of dark period to ensure they can absorb carbon dioxide.
(4) Carbon dioxide concentration
Phalaenopsis is a CAM plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600 to 800 ppm.
(5) Relative humidity
Due to its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from the stress effects of low humidity, but in an overly wet environment, high temperature and high humidity often accompany disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60% to 80% RH. Under high-temperature and low-humidity conditions, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include high-pressure misting equipment above the greenhouse to increase mist particles, sprinkling water below the planting beds, and using water walls and fans. However, avoid making the crop wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.
(6) Other information
When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, both daytime temperature and sunlight amount can be increased, keeping the greenhouse interior at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height is best 3 to 4 meters higher than the plants.
In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light quantity, temperature, and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement work can use microcomputers or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values need to be measured.
Cultivation methods
The cultivation medium for Western orchids must meet the following requirements:
It can allow the orchid root system to bear the weight of the orchid itself and maintain normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferred.
Good drainage performance and water retention performance. Orchid roots need water, but water must also drain away quickly, because water accumulation will cause root rot; on the other hand, moisture must be retained so it does not dry out too quickly.
Good aeration performance.
Contains a considerable amount of mineral nutrients.
Can remain non-rotting for 1 to 2 years.
Inexpensive, suitable, easy to obtain, and convenient to handle.
The following media are suitable for cultivating Western orchids:
Tree fern fiber, made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns; peat moss; sphagnum moss;
Osmunda roots, one type being black wire-like hard roots, and the other being brown softer roots; not easily rotting, containing small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements, draining and aerating while retaining water, and durable. pH value 5;
Bark, Douglas fir and white fir bark chunks, soft, aerating and water-retaining, pH value 4 to 6;
Coconut coir and coconut husk fiber;
Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks, and branches, dried cow dung, pumice, expanded clay chunks, broken brick pieces, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. can all be used to grow orchids. The medium used in commercially sold Phalaenopsis potted flowers is generally sphagnum moss. [7]
Pre-flowering and post-flowering management
After Phalaenopsis flower buds form, apply more phosphorus until flowering. When the flower stem emerges upward and tends to lean to one side, a support stake should be set up and tied so the flower stem does not break. Afterward, as the flower stem gradually grows longer and taller, tying should also proceed gradually, with the support stake slightly arc-shaped to enhance beauty. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period and before new leaves grow. After the flowers fade, for strong orchid plants with more than 5 leaves, you can leave 3 to 4 nodes at the lower part of the stem and cut back, and it may bloom again on the remaining flower stem later. Watering should not be too frequent; water only after it dries completely.
Key care points
Cultivation medium: Common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.
1. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. During the growth period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16 to 30°C. In autumn and winter and at the turn of winter and spring, as well as when winter temperatures are low, attention should be paid to increasing warmth. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to achieve, but note that the flower should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are relatively high, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is above 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. Around the Spring Festival is the full flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can prolong the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13 and 16°C, but not lower than 13°C. [8]
2. Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to primitive forests, with more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface wrinkles and becomes weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60% to 80%. During the vigorous elongation period of new roots, water more; during the post-flowering dormant period, water less. In spring and autumn, water once around 5 p.m. every day. In summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. every day. In winter, with weak light and low temperature, watering once every other week is enough, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and stop when wet. When the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to spray directly on the leaf surface; once the leaf surface is moist, that is enough, but note that during the flowering period, do not spray water mist onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.
3. Light: Although Phalaenopsis relatively prefers shade, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers more brilliant and longer-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot indoors with scattered light, and direct sunlight should be avoided.
4. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke, and it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.
5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized year-round. Unless low temperatures last for a very long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilization easily leads to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7 to 10 days. Organic fertilizer is suitable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds easily drop early. In summer when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2 to 3 weeks. The time for fertilizing is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, use a large amount of water to rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant, so that residual inorganic salts do not harm the roots.
6. Post-flowering management: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2 to 3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, which can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at 4 to 5 nodes from the base, it can bloom again after 2 to 3 months. But this consumes too many nutrients from the plant and is not conducive to growth the following year. If you want it to produce good flowers again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise aeration worsens, causing root rot and weakening plant growth or even death. Generally, repotting in May when new leaves grow is suitable.
Key points to note
1. Watering too frequently: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that it lacks water, and regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, they water every day, causing severe root rot.
2. Temperature too low: Usually, the time when flowering Phalaenopsis plants are marketed is mostly in early spring, and after being bought and taken home they are generally placed in living rooms and other places for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat low. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses. By comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, so the plant's vigor often weakens day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still sometimes fails to bloom.
3. Excessive fertilization: Applying fertilizer whenever there is fertilizer, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. You should know that Phalaenopsis should be given dilute fertilizer, and it should be applied in small amounts many times. Remember that "tonic feeding" must not be excessive, otherwise it will backfire.
4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: Thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a more spacious environment and sufficient material. In fact, after using a large pot, sphagnum moss does not dry easily. You should know that Phalaenopsis likes aeration, and when air circulates it thrives.
5. Dry flower buds: Most Phalaenopsis are forced into bloom. After leaving the base, once the environment changes, dry bud problems easily appear. At this time, do not think it is dryness and do not water more. Instead, increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose those with thick petals.
Cultivation management
It likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, ventilated, semi-shaded environment, and avoids waterlogging and stuffiness. The wintering temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees. Because Phalaenopsis originated in tropical rainforest regions, it is naturally fond of warmth and afraid of cold. The suitable growth temperature is 18 to 30°C. In winter, below 15C it stops growing, and below 10°C it easily dies. In various places in Lingnan, if mass production is to be carried out, cold protection facilities must be provided and protected cultivation implemented. If growing a small amount at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather comes and maintain the temperature, and it can safely overwinter.
Its propagation mostly uses cell tissue culture. After test-tube-grown seedlings are transplanted, they can generally bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, sometimes the axillary buds on the flower stem also grow and develop into plantlets. When they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stem for division propagation.
Medium
Because of its aerial nature, the planting material for potting should not be soil. Instead, use sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern fiber, charcoal pieces, etc., or directly fix the seedlings onto a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and let them attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hang the whole board on the wall for viewing, which indeed has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has many aerial roots, and its root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive. They must be carefully protected, and the root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.
Temperature
Phalaenopsis is a tropical high-temperature orchid, and the suitable growth temperature is 20 to 30°C. Below 15 degrees it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it easily dies. But above 35°C, high temperature affects growth and makes it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of 15 to 18°C low temperature to promote flower bud differentiation. After that, if low temperature continues, flower stem sprouting is delayed.
Air
Phalaenopsis likes an environment with high air humidity and ventilation. It requires the air to maintain humidity at 60% to 80% often, and it is best to keep air circulating with a slight breeze. There must not be too much water accumulation in the pot. If roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6 to 8 hours, they very easily rot. Therefore, aeration is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well. The medium needs to be loose and breathable so the roots grow strong. Avoid dry, hot wind. In northern winter cultivation, it cannot be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioner airflow.
Sunlight
Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on the branches and trunks of tall trees in tropical rainforests, sheltered by tree shade. Avoid [10] direct sun, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it is also not tolerant of too much indoor shade, which will cause slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a north- or east-facing balcony or windowsill so it receives scattered light, and then it will grow strong with few diseases.
Moisture
Because it has no stolons or pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not tolerant of drought, and because of its aerial nature, Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. During high-temperature summer periods, keeping the material moist is enough. You can use spraying to lower temperature and increase humidity (but do not let water remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). You can also use a moist towel beside the flowerpot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: roots must not be overly wet for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time, which very easily causes rot. For example, the daily watering amount in summer should be such that it can air-dry naturally the same day, alternating dry and wet, which will greatly reduce the occurrence of root rot and disease. In winter, water less and only keep the material slightly moist.
Fertilization
The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is dilute fertilizer applied frequently, and never overly concentrated chemical fertilizer. A suitable concentration is about 1 time more diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging, that is, about 1500 to 2000 times. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. Apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer during the growth period, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer during the flower-forcing period. Applying once a week or once every half month is enough. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but before and after flowering attention should be paid to appropriately supplementing fertilizer.
Cultivation techniques
Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid. During cultivation, the roots must have good aeration, and the potting medium must be loose, drain well, and be breathable. Moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut shells, or vermiculite are commonly used. After new plants are planted, new roots grow in about 3O to 40 days.
During the growth period, fertilize once every ten days. From flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and leaf surfaces to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial to stem and leaf growth. Every year in May to June, when new roots begin to grow after flowering, repot; the temperature should be 20 to 25°C. If the temperature is too low, new plants recover slowly and are also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable to Phalaenopsis growth, will promote it to enter a semi-dormant state, affect flower bud differentiation, and as a result it will not bloom. Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and large flowers. When potted, support stakes are needed to prevent tipping over and affecting the flower's appearance.
The flowerpot should be a bit larger. Flowerpot size is also very important. If the root system of the flower is very large, the flowerpot should also be appropriately increased. If the root system is relatively small, do not use too large a flowerpot either. If the flowerpot is relatively large and contains more soil, it easily makes the soil permeability poor. When planting, acid-loving soil (mountain soil) is needed for orchids, camellias, rhododendrons, Michelia alba, and gardenias. For Phalaenopsis and clivias, use leaf mold. For osmanthus, cycads, and palm bamboo, use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal cinder ash, with the purpose of increasing soil permeability.
Phalaenopsis cultivation methods cultivation plan
The cultivation of Phalaenopsis cut flowers is divided into two stages:
Growth stage: from small seedlings to mature plants.
Flowering stage: carrying out flower forcing and selling cut flowers.
(1) Growth stage
At the beginning of cultivation, smaller varieties or smaller graded seedlings should be cultivated on another planting bed. Large varieties and larger grades can be placed in square arrangements, but before the leaf width begins to touch, thinning must be carried out to avoid growing thin and long leaves. In Europe, the planting bed area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.
(2) Flowering stage
Economic cost calculation, with a 5-year flowering period
After the plant has developed 4 to 5 leaves, replant it in a 15 to 17 cm pot, and the pot spacing can already be fixed at this point. Varieties with larger leaf width need increased spacing. When the orchid plant has grown large enough and the root system has developed soundly, this orchid plant can serve as a flowering plant.
There are on average about 20 plants per square meter, and from flowering planting to commercial production there are 5 years in total. If seedlings are too small or the root system develops poorly, the flower stem will be smaller and the flowers will be smaller, the potted display time will not be long, and the time until the next stem emergence will be longer.
Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots can ensure more vigorous growth and better root quality. The pots are placed on the planting bed, and ventilation should be good. The width of movable planting beds should be less than 1.6 meters, and the height should be appropriate, so cut-flower work is easy to carry out.
Medium
The standards for selecting the medium are as follows: large particles for drainage, fine particles (not dust particles) for retaining and distributing water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it easily forms a hard-layer structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark 12 to 16 mm long and 2 to 3 kg/ of sphagnum moss. For large containers such as 14 to 24 cm pots, coarser bark (14 to 24 mm) is suitable, but it must be mixed with sticky particles or lava medium. In a 17 cm pot, adding appropriate sphagnum moss (2 to 3 kg/m) can make moisture in the medium distribute evenly. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within one year the sphagnum moss will rot and deteriorate, but the root system can already effectively distribute within the pot.
In addition to the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is equally important. After irrigation, water accumulation at the bottom of the pot must not last too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots inside the pot, and the root system will turn green. If the root system only goes downward without circling, the root fixation is incorrect. After irrigation, water and nutrient absorption then requires a longer time, and the quality of future flower stems becomes worse. Using transparent pots allows you to check whether the root system remains vigorous and evenly distributed.
During the first month after transplanting, the medium must be kept moist. The top must not be too dry. If the moisture in the medium fluctuates too sharply during the first week, it will be very difficult to remedy later in the cultivation period. However, a medium that is too wet can also cause problems.
Irrigation systems
The available irrigation methods are: using drip irrigation lines, using fixed nozzles, watering from above, doing it manually, or a combination of the above methods.
Phalaenopsis leaves readily absorb nutrients such as urea through the leaf surface during foliar feeding. A porous medium is very important for the roots; despite the negative capillary effect, its advantages outweigh this. In the early growth stage, irrigation by sprinkling or with irrigation booms is very useful for the crop. During the flowering stage, drip irrigation lines are better in order to avoid water splashing onto the petals and causing gray mold. When the flower spike already carries many flowers, watering from above easily causes the spike to break.
Irrigation water must not contain chemical substances or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ion content in the water must not exceed 100 mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse-osmosis-treated water must be used. The amount of water applied depends on the climate, the medium and the age of the plant. In the Western European environment, the irrigation amounts are roughly as follows: once every 7-10 days in winter, once every 5-7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18-20°C to avoid root loss.
During the growth period and in the first month after moving to a large pot, water must be applied from above; besides reliably keeping the medium sufficiently moist, this also prevents salinization of the top layer of the medium. Once the roots are well developed, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water must be applied from above to leach the medium.
Fertilizer
For fertilizing Phalaenopsis, a compound fertilizer can be used, or nitrogen fertilizer can be applied directly. Fertilizer application varies by variety. If a base fertilizer is used, it must contain Dolokal (L3-4 kg/l) mixed with PG, with a pH range of 5.2-6.2 and an EC range of 0.8-1.2 mS/cm. If nitrogen is too high, it causes excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If it is too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water drained from the bottom after irrigation. Above 1.5 mS/cm means the medium in that pot has become salinized. Usually barrel-red spots form on the roots; at this point the medium needs to be leached with clear water or water of low EC.
Flowering stage
The plant can be induced to flower when it has 5 mature leaves. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, it will naturally send up a flower spike. Natural flower induction in autumn means the plants can be sold in February-March of the following year. Flowering time can be controlled by regulating temperature and light levels. The flower spike can be cut and sold when all the buds on it except the last one have opened. When the flower spike is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower spike emerges from the remaining flower buds, and it starts from the terminal bud. However, inducing this new flower spike takes longer, so whether to adopt this method of first flowering naturally and then producing a second flower spike depends on the required spike quality and the sales plan. Apart from the first spike, as long as the plant is healthy, a second one can produce double spikes, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, on average, 2.5 flower spikes can be sold per year. After the flower spike emerges, it is kept upright with hanging string to prevent it from bending.
Immature flowering plants
During the growth period, flower spikes that emerge before the plant is mature must be removed promptly. If the flower spike has not yet hardened, it can be removed by hand. If the flower spike has already hardened, it must be cut off with a tool. Before removal or cutting, both hands and tools must be disinfected to avoid transmitting disease. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can prevent this premature flowering.
Stage-by-stage care
From flask seedlings to flowering and sale, Phalaenopsis goes through 5 growth stages: flask seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and the flowering stage. The key points of cultivation management are as follows.
1. Early-stage management. In the flask seedling growth stage, the optimum growth temperature is 25-28°C during the day and 18-20°C at night. In the small seedling stage, the optimum growth temperature is 23°C. Above 35°C or below 10°C, growth stops. Newly deflasked small seedlings should be kept below 20°C, with relative air humidity maintained at 70%-80% and light controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, light is gradually increased to 10,000 lux, and finally up to 15,000 lux.
Fertilizer and water management during the small seedling growth stage plays a decisive role. Within 3-5 days after the tissue-cultured plantlets are deflasked, they should not be fertilized or watered, but must immediately undergo sterilization treatment. Carbendazim at 1000 times dilution can be used for leaf-surface sterilization, and rooting powder sprayed the next day, 3 sprays in total. After a 3-5 day transition period, apply the first fertilizer: spray Peters 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) at 1800 times dilution, until the sphagnum moss is completely wet. One day later, apply Peters 10 (30:10:10) at 2500 times dilution as a foliar fertilizer. One week later, according to how dry or wet the small seedlings are, apply the second fertilizer; at this point the fertilizing principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, low potassium.
After 4 months of cultivation, the small seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and at this point they should be repotted. The tightness of the sphagnum moss should match the firmness of the muscle below the palm when the hand is made into a natural fist; the tightness may be greater or lesser, but the standard must be consistent. Management during the medium seedling stage is basically similar to the small seedling stage, but light can be increased to 20,000 lux. Fertilization alternates between Peters 8 and Peters 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratios of 20:10:20 and 20:20:20 respectively). During the medium seedling stage, attention must be paid to the orientation and growth of new leaves; generally they are placed in an east-west orientation, and the leaves are periodically turned. At this point the fertilizing principle is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, high potassium.
After 4-6 months of cultivation, the medium seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as for medium seedlings, but fertilization uses Peters 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).
2. Late-stage management. This is the management of the flowering period, that is, the late growth stage. Phalaenopsis flowering is induced by low temperature, so in addition to careful management, temperature must also be well controlled. First keep the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, then lower the night temperature to below 18°C, and flower buds form after 45 days. After the flower buds form, keep the night temperature at 18-20°C and the day temperature at 25-28°C. Flowers can open after 3-4 months; the temperature during the flowering period is slightly lower, but not below 15°C. After the flower buds emerge, a support stake must be set up, that is, the stake is set up before the flower stem extends and falls over, and the flower stem is tied to the stake, leaving room for the flower stem to lengthen and thicken.
Water and fertilizer management during the flowering period is especially important. Watering should be done at 10 a.m., avoiding direct splashing of water onto the flowers. After watering, use an exhaust fan for ventilation to keep the air in the greenhouse fresh and allow residual moisture to dissipate as quickly as possible. At this point, fertilization with Peters 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 10:30:20) at 1000 times dilution is best, depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.
Phalaenopsis is prone to soft rot and gray leaf spot. Soft rot is extremely contagious; once it is found, immediately isolate the diseased plants. Diseased plants can be treated with mancozeb or Hokusei. Usually, sterilization is carried out once every 15 days.
Repotting
When Phalaenopsis has many roots growing outside the pot, or when the medium inside the pot turns black and rots, it is time to consider repotting. The repotting steps are as follows:
Carefully remove the Phalaenopsis from the pot and remove all the old medium;
Trim the root system, cutting off dead roots, rotten roots, broken roots and shriveled roots; if the base of the orchid plant is too high, that is, the root stock is too long, part of it can be cut off;
Then place sphagnum moss under the roots and wrap the moist moss tightly around the root system;
Place a larger piece of foam plastic at the bottom of the pot as a base, put the moss-wrapped orchid plant into the pot, and pack the moss tightly around the inside of the pot so that the orchid plant does not wobble; place it in a shady spot and do not water until the moss is completely dry. At ordinary times, just mist it (moist moss means soaking dry moss in water until thoroughly wet, then taking it out and squeezing out the water).
Summering techniques
1. Measures: Summering Phalaenopsis is mainly a matter of cooling, and the following measures should be taken:
Add a double-layer shade net to reduce light, which can achieve a good cooling effect (lowering by 2-4°C).
Sprinkle water on the ground or flood the ground. Summer temperatures are very high, but the water just drawn from a well is actually very cold, around 16°C. Therefore, sprinkling or flooding with water can produce an obvious cooling effect.
Misting the leaves cools fastest, but the effect lasts the shortest time.
Ventilation. Make a 40 cm x 40 cm square opening in the wall every 5 m at a height of 70 cm from the ground to increase ventilation and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases; turn on fans when the temperature is above 25°C to strengthen air circulation, which benefits plant growth.
2. Undesirable phenomena that easily occur during summering
Leaf aging and shedding: some plants lose their lower leaves during the summering process, and from late summer to autumn they gradually yellow and drop.
Severe pests and diseases: especially when the weather is hot, relative air humidity is too high and there is no wind, and temperatures are high, soft rot, brown spot, viruses and other diseases are easily triggered.
Cut flower techniques
The native habitat of Phalaenopsis is all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growth temperature is 28-35°C and its nighttime temperature is 20-24°C; it prefers high relative humidity and shaded conditions. This crop absorbs nutrients through its roots and leaves. The root system is also used to anchor the plant.
Breeding program
At Anthura there is a professional breeding team, and the breeding objectives are divided into pot flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that includes cut flowers in its breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the father and mother plants require dominant differences to ensure that their offspring have stable inheritance, so that they can become a new variety. Its germplasm sources include varieties that have been preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new lines purchased from Asia. The development of a new variety includes hybrid development, selection, and clonal mass propagation. Developing a new variety takes 7-9 years. From crossing to the formation of a seed pod takes 6 months, and from sowing the seed to becoming a seedling takes 1 year. From seedling to flowering takes 1.5 years. Using 1 flower spike to produce tissue-cultured plantlets takes 2 years, and from mericlone plantlets to flowering takes 1.5 years, so 6.5 years have already passed. Only at this stage does mass propagation of mericlone plantlets begin.
The Anthura Phalaenopsis breeding program has two main directions: cut flowers and pot flowers. The selection program includes flower shape and flower color. For cut flowers, the most important selection criteria include the number of flower spikes produced, color, the proportion of the best quality, the fewer branches the better, the thickness and strength of the flower spike, the development of the flower spike and flowers, flower shape, leaf arrangement, plant developmental traits, post-harvest storage and transport characteristics, and vase life. Post-harvest characteristics are most closely related to genetics. The ornamental period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main selection criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as the loss rate during the orchid plant production process and disease resistance.
Seedling characteristics
Anthura provides tissue-cultured plantlets and plug-tray small seedlings. Tissue-cultured plantlets must be specially ordered. Customers gain two advantages from using plug-tray small seedlings: reduced losses during the acclimatization period of the small seedlings, and a reduction of 5-7 months in the cultivation period. Each plug tray contains 40 small seedlings, and when they arrive at the customer's greenhouse they can be transplanted immediately.
The small seedlings in the rectangular tray have a leaf span of 10-14 cm and usually have 2-3 well-developed leaves. Before the small seedlings are transplanted into 12 cm soft pots, they must be graded. Anthura does not carry out this grading work for customers. Usually the grower divides the small seedlings in the rectangular tray into two grades, large and small, and after transplanting they are cultivated on different beds. The cultivation period for small seedlings is 3-4 months longer than for large seedlings.
Transplanting the small seedlings into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly done by hand. The small seedlings must be kept vertical, placed in the center of the lower part of the soft pot, and planted at the correct height. If the plant's growing point is too deep, it is prone to disease infection; if the transplanting depth is too shallow, the support is poor. After transplanting, the arrangement of the soft pots is very important. As the orchid seedlings grow, when the leaves begin to shade each other from the sunlight, the pots must be spaced out, increasing the distance between soft pots.
Propagation methods of Phalaenopsis
There are mainly five propagation methods for Phalaenopsis: seed propagation, flower spike bud induction propagation, growth point destruction bud induction propagation, stem cutting propagation, and tissue culture.
1.Seed propagation method
This method can breed a large number of excellent seedlings, and it is not easy to transmit viruses and other diseases; it can also use hybridization to cultivate newer, more unusual new varieties with more flower colors and flower shapes.
1. Natural sowing method
Sow the seeds released from the already split seed capsule into the pot of the parent plant, because the parent plant's growing medium may contain the symbiotic bacteria necessary for Phalaenopsis seed germination. The natural sowing method is simple and easy, requiring no complicated sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for ordinary home Phalaenopsis growers, but the chance of success with this method is very small, so it is rarely used.
2. Aseptic sowing method
The method is to first wash the unopened mature seed capsule, then immerse it in 75%-90% ethanol or chloroform for 2-3 seconds, then soak it in a 5%-10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5-20 minutes. Take out the seeds and soak them in the same disinfectant for 5-20 minutes, then remove the solution by filtering, take out the seeds, and use a fine needle to spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a flask. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000-3000 lux, 10-18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20-26°C. After 9-10 months, when the small seedlings have grown 2-3 leaves, they can be deflasked and planted in pots. This method is a highly scientific task, generally carried out in a tissue culture laboratory, or in a large-scale, strictly managed tissue culture factory.
2.Flower spike bud induction propagation method
In many varieties of Phalaenopsis, after the flowers fade, small seedlings with roots often grow from the internodes of the flower spike; cutting them off and planting them separately can grow into a new Phalaenopsis. Artificial bud induction methods can be used to ensure that the Phalaenopsis flower spike grows spike plantlets for propagation. The method is to first cut off the part of the flower spike that has finished flowering, then use a blade or sharp knife to carefully remove the bracts at the first to third internodes on the upper part of the flower spike, exposing the bud points in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply a bud-inducing agent or a hormone such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded spot, keep the temperature at 25-28°C, and after 2-3 weeks the buds can be seen growing leaves; after 3 months they grow into Phalaenopsis small seedlings with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the small seedlings and pot them up, and they can become a new orchid plant.
3.Growth point destruction bud induction propagation method
After the growth point of an orchid plant is damaged by freezing injury, insect damage, disease, or human factors, after a period of time, 1-2 new buds will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the orchid plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis. The specific operation method is: pull out the highest central leaf at the top of the stem, taking care to destroy the stem tip growth point so that it cannot grow upward; let the wound dry or apply a fungicide to disinfect and sterilize it, and after a period of time 2-3 new buds can grow from the stem nodes near the base; when the new buds have grown larger and roots have grown from the base, they can be cut off and planted separately to become a new plant.
4.Stem cutting propagation method
The principle of the stem cutting propagation method is to destroy the stem tip growth point in order to induce dormant buds to grow. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most of them cannot sprout into a plant. After the plant has continuously grown upward and the stem nodes have become longer, the upper part of the plant with roots can be cut off with a sterilized sharp blade or scissors and planted in a new pot to continue growing, while the lower part with the rhizome is given appropriate water management, and before long 1-3 new buds can sprout (depending on the plant's own traits and the management method). If the plant's stem is relatively long, it can also be considered to cut it into multiple sections; as long as each section has 2-3 internodes, or is more than 2-3 cm long, and has more than one root, it may grow into a new plant, but if the plant's rhizome has all dried up and died, this method is ineffective.
5.Tissue culture method
Using the tissue culture method to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics completely identical to the mother plant. The Phalaenopsis plantlets produced by this method are called mericlone plantlets or tissue-cultured plantlets. The plant tissue used for mericlone culture (explant) can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segments (dormant buds), or young leaves or root tips, but the most common is the Phalaenopsis flower spike. This is because using the flower spike as an explant not only does not damage the plant, but is also easy to induce. For older flower spikes or flower spikes that have already flowered, the spike node buds are mainly taken, while for young flower spikes, in addition to the spike node buds, the spike internodes can also be used as culture material.
6. Home propagation method
Cut off the faded flowers on the flower spike together with the flower spike, taking care to retain the un-sprouted bud nodes (about three or four nodes).
Carefully remove the bracts on the top one or two nodes, exposing the node buds, taking care not to injure the buds.
Take a small amount of bud-inducing agent and apply it evenly to the node buds; if the wound after removing the bracts can also be covered with it, the effect is even better.
Place the treated orchid in a suitable spot (able to receive light but not direct sun). The temperature must be kept at 25-30°C and the humidity above 75%, and after 2-3 months new flower plantlets will grow.
When the new plantlet has grown to a certain size, wrap a small amount of sphagnum moss around its base with plastic film; when the small plantlet has grown two or three thick roots, it can be cut off and planted separately.
Disease control of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis flowering is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low-temperature stimulation. After stimulation for one month at a low temperature of 20-23°C during the day and below 18°C at night (but not below 15°C for a long time), the dormant buds in the stem can be transformed into flower buds. After that, when the flower buds break through the epidermis and grow into a flower spike, a higher temperature is needed, and the normal growth temperature is suitable; continuous low temperature will cause the flower spike to emerge slowly, the flowers to be on the small side, or even to wither midway. Appropriately increasing sunlight during the flowering period helps produce larger, more vividly colored flowers and earlier flowering. Phalaenopsis pest and disease control: the occurrence of Phalaenopsis diseases is mostly caused by poor environment and hygiene, and diseases are especially likely when temperatures are low or sunlight is insufficient; regular environmental cleaning and temperature and humidity control, along with rapid removal of diseased plants, can prevent most disease occurrence and spread. Phalaenopsis diseases can generally be divided into those caused by bacteria, mold, insects, and the environment. The symptoms and control methods are as follows:
Bacterial diseases: This type of disease first multiplies in the internal tissues, and then spreads over the leaf surface and plant body. Common symptoms include exuding sap and rotting, mostly due to overwatering or transmission through insects or contact between plants. Black rot symptoms: a common disease of orchid plants; when Phalaenopsis is affected, the whole plant usually rots and dies, making it a fairly serious disease. Control methods: special attention must be paid to greenhouse ventilation, and the temperature also needs to be appropriately lowered. If any orchid plant has this disease, avoid spraying water to prevent the disease from spreading. A fungicide powder should be sprayed to protect unaffected orchid plants, and diseased plants should be removed as quickly as possible.
Brown rot symptoms: This can be called one of the rather difficult orchid diseases to deal with. In the early stage, pale spots appear on the plant body or leaf surface, then gradually become more concentrated and turn dark brown, and cause the plant body to wrinkle. Brown rot spreads quite quickly; from initial onset to the appearance of wrinkling and rotting takes only one day, usually becoming infected in the morning and beginning to rot in the evening, making it a rather troublesome Phalaenopsis disease. Brown rot mostly occurs in environments with high air humidity, and is most likely to occur in spring and summer, when air humidity is relatively high and orchid plants grow relatively fast; once an orchid plant is diseased, it easily causes surrounding orchids to become diseased as well. Control methods: brown rot easily occurs in environments with high air humidity. If any orchid plant shows symptoms, stop watering, cut off the affected parts, and apply a fungicide. If the condition is serious or there is a risk of expansion, the diseased plant can be removed or isolated. If other orchid plants are at risk of infection, a fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention; humidity in spring and summer must also be strictly controlled, and the orchid garden must be kept ventilated and clean.
Mold: Too much variation in environmental humidity, or soil and nutrient solution fertility factors causing plant damage, leads to mold attacking the orchid tissue. Lowering the EC value of the irrigation water and reducing the moisture in the medium are common treatment methods. In addition, gray mold on orchid petals is also a mold disease; it forms small spots on orchid flowers. The cause of this disease is excessive dampness or too high relative humidity, and temperature and humidity control is required.
Spot disease symptoms: It mostly occurs on leaves. In the early stage, round dark brown spots appear on the leaf surface; the spots gradually spread and finally cause the orchid plant to rot. It is a type of fungal disease and mostly occurs in low-temperature, humid, and poorly ventilated environments in autumn and winter. Control methods: this disease mostly occurs in low-temperature, humid, and poorly ventilated environments. The primary control method is to improve dampness and keep the leaf surface dry; on cold days, water as little as possible, raise the environmental temperature and maintain ventilation, and do not let moisture stagnate on the plant body. Leaf blight symptoms: in the early stage of leaf blight, the leaf tip begins to change color, then it gradually spreads to the whole leaf and the whole plant, and finally the entire orchid turns dark brown and the affected orchid plant becomes hard and dies. This disease is also caused by an overly humid environment, and humidity control must be noted.
Control methods: pay attention to humidity control in the orchid garden, and improving ventilation is also something that requires special attention. If there is a risk of disease, a fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention; orchid plants that have already become diseased must be cut off and isolated as soon as possible to avoid the disaster expanding.
Insect pests: slugs and snails. Slugs and snails are common Phalaenopsis pests; the commonly occurring damage is that young plant bodies are bitten and small holes are produced, affecting the appearance and growth of the orchid. The damage from snails and slugs is quite rapid, and many orchid plants can be harmed in a short period; once discovered, insecticide must be used as soon as possible to drive them away. Mites: red spider mites. Mites bite the leaves and cause deformation and discoloration, creating unfavorable factors for the appearance and growth of the orchid. Insecticides can be used to control this type of pest.
Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment. Bud drop: after an orchid has finished flowering, if the light is too strong or the room temperature is too high, it is easy for the flowers to drop before the flowering period ends. If the orchid's root development is poor, this can also cause it. To deal with Phalaenopsis bud drop, one must start from the above two points. Spots: spots appearing on an orchid are not necessarily a pathogen problem; sometimes too strong light or poor environmental adaptation can also produce the same symptoms, so changes in the environment must be noted, especially when the plant body is moved.
Pest and disease management
Proper hygiene treatment and weekly removal of diseased plants can prevent most disease spread. Bacterial infection is mainly due to water droplets splashing onto the plant body, or the plant being affected during transport. This kind of disease cannot be controlled with chemical agents. The various diseases and their modes of spread are as follows:
1. Bacterial diseases
Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptom is the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, with a yellow-shaped substance surrounding them. Treatment includes adjusting the nitrogen amount in the fertilizer solution, removing diseased plants, and maintaining stable relative humidity. Chemical agents have no effect on this disease. Only by using plants in good growing condition and healthy plants can this kind of bacterial problem be avoided.
2. Mold
Too much variation in the moisture in the medium or an unsuitable EC value causes root damage, which then prompts mold to attack the tissue. The way to deal with it is to lower the EC value of the irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.
3. Gray mold fungus
Another disease caused by mold is gray mold on the petals, which forms many small spots on the flowers. The cause is that the plant is in a damp state for too long or the relative humidity is too high.
4. Fusarium
Fusarium causes black triangular spots and forms yellow and dark red areas on the basal leaves. The leaves will drop rapidly. This disease easily occurs when the roots are sitting in standing water.
Common cases
1. Leaf spot: it mainly occurs on leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small spots appear on the leaves, which later develop into nearly round lesions. The lesion edges have a water-soaked yellow ring with clear boundaries. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, lower air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the disease period, spray with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
2. Gray mold: it occurs in spring during low temperature and high humidity. Generally, small brown spots appear on the petals of white flowers, and in severe cases soft rot occurs. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, lower humidity, and immediately cut off affected flowers. In the early stage of the disease, spray with 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays.
3．Brown spot disease: it occurs in hot and humid weather in summer and autumn, mainly on leaves. In the early stage of the disease, round small spots appear on the leaves, which later gradually expand into large spots. The lesions are dark brown, and in severe cases the leaves turn black and wither. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. In the early stage of the disease, spray with 10% polyoxin at 80 times dilution once every half month.
4．Scale insects: the most common pest of Phalaenopsis. It mostly occurs in autumn and winter, when indoor ventilation is poor and dryness leads to scale insect damage. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation; orchid plants should not be placed too densely; when only a small number are found, soft cloth can be used to wipe off the scale insects, and repeating this several times can eradicate the pest.
5：Soft rot
(1) Disease symptoms
Bacterial soft rot mainly harms the marginal leaves, central leaves, leaf sheaths, and basal stem. When it harms the marginal leaves, mung-bean-sized, round, water-soaked spots first appear on the front of the leaf, and they expand extremely quickly; under suitable conditions, within 5-8 h they can rapidly expand into round water-soaked rotten spots 3-4 cm in diameter, and then spread into patches or even the whole leaf, causing the leaf to become soft and rotten; after the mesophyll is soft-rotted, thread-like leaf veins remain, and a pus-like exudate overflows, giving off a rotten apple smell. When it harms the leaf sheath, it starts from the stem-wrapping membrane and goes upward along the leaf veins, causing part of the leaf to turn yellow; after expansion, the leaf sheath together with the leaf base becomes discolored and soft-rotted, and the entire leaf drops off. The symptoms of disease on the central leaves and on the marginal leaves are basically the same; in severe cases, they rot together with the basal stem, and the entire plant dies.
(2) Causes of disease
2.1 Repeated use of sheds and greenhouses results in a large pathogen base
The pathogens causing soft rot include 2 types, bacteria and fungi. They all overwinter in soil, weeds, seedling beds, and seedlings, spread through wind and rain, invade through wounds and stomata, and can cause disease when conditions are suitable, becoming the main source of initial infection for diseased plants. The larger the pathogen base, the more severe the disease in that year. Phalaenopsis mostly uses soilless cultivation in greenhouses. Because sheds and greenhouses are reused, a large number of pathogens reside in the indoor soil, seedling beds, trays and pots, and walls, making the disease worse year after year. Even for new greenhouses, because seedlings are introduced from epidemic areas and the seedlings themselves carry pathogens, this also becomes an important route for long-distance spread of the disease.
2.2 High temperature and high humidity
According to observations, when the temperature exceeds 26°C and the humidity exceeds 60%, plants begin to develop the disease, and as temperature and humidity increase, the lesions expand rapidly and the spread speeds up [2]. While greenhouses retain heat, they also increase indoor humidity, especially in summer and autumn, when humidity approaches saturation and the temperature is also much higher than outdoor temperature; even with fan ventilation and water curtain cooling, the daytime temperature is still above 30°C, and at night it is also 27-30°C. While the water curtain lowers the temperature, it also increases indoor humidity. Therefore, conditions in the greenhouse are more conducive to disease than outdoors. When watering, the splashed water droplets can very easily spread pathogens from diseased plants to the surroundings, forming a disease center area centered on old diseased plants. While the fan ventilates, it also accelerates indoor air movement, speeding up the spread of pathogens in the greenhouse. At the same time, because humidity is greater at night, the speed of lesion expansion and the plant disease incidence are much higher than during the day. Overnight, small spots become large spots, and healthy plants become diseased plants. There are great differences in susceptibility among plant lines. Generally, large-leaved varieties are more susceptible, those with a thick waxy leaf surface are more resistant, plants that have not flowered are more resistant, and plants that have already flowered are more susceptible. The Red Ruby variety is the most susceptible; Taicun Red Angel and Shihua Diamond are not resistant.
(3) Control measures
3.1 Do a good job of disinfecting sheds, greenhouses and seedlings
In spring, before moving seedlings through the shed or greenhouse, especially reused warm sheds, thorough disinfection must be carried out to eradicate overwintering pathogens and reduce the pathogen base. For chemicals, 40% asomate at 100 times dilution or sodium pentachlorophenate at 200 times dilution can be sprayed indoors, or quicklime at 500 g/sq m can be spread for floor disinfection; after application, close the shed for 3-4 d. In new areas, avoid introducing seedlings from epidemic areas, and pay attention to the inspection and quarantine of newly introduced seedlings; immediately after entering the shed, spray with 10% Duoxiu aqueous solution at 800 times dilution for sterilization, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Susceptible lines should be cultivated separately from other lines to avoid cultivation in the same room and on the same bed, reducing cross-infection.
3.2 Strengthen water and fertilizer management
Phalaenopsis is a flower with a high water requirement, but if the amount of watering is too large or too frequent, the substrate in the pot contains too much water and remains saturated for a long time, with poor aeration, which easily causes root rot, affects the plant's healthy growth, and reduces disease resistance. Each time you water, it should be done so that it goes from dry to wet, not watering when it is not dry, and watering slowly and gently, preventing water from splashing onto the leaves. It is appropriate for the water to just seep down to the substrate at the bottom of the pot. Watering in the morning is generally better; avoid watering in the evening and avoid leaving water on the leaves overnight, and keep the water temperature as close to room temperature as possible. For seedlings whose substrate has been too wet for a long time, the pot bag can be removed to air the seedlings. Phalaenopsis fertilization is generally carried out together with watering. Fertilization should follow the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently; compound fertilizers rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and organic fertilizers are suitable. During the seedling stage, compound fertilizer with high nitrogen content can be applied; during the flower induction stage, compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can be applied; in the high-temperature disease period in summer, trace elements such as calcium and magnesium can also be added.
3.3 Lower the temperature and humidity in the shed or greenhouse and strengthen patrols
The optimum growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 25-30°C, and the optimum humidity is 60%-70%, but in summer the temperature and humidity in the shed will greatly exceed these limits. Adding a double-layer shade net can not only lower the temperature in the shed, but also prevent strong light from scorching the leaves. Simple sheds without exhaust ventilation should have the surrounding shed cloth opened to lower temperature and humidity. For greenhouses equipped with fans and water curtains, special attention should be paid to reducing the water curtain watering time at night and extending the exhaust ventilation time. Seedlings on the seedling bed should not be placed too densely; a certain plant and row spacing should be left to avoid overlapping leaves, so as to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and create a good microclimate for healthy plant growth. Always keep the shed clean and hygienic, ensuring there are no weeds or residual diseased leaves in the shed. From the beginning of disease onset, persist in patrolling the garden 2-3 times a day, promptly discovering diseased plants and removing diseased leaves; for diseased leaves with small lesions, they can be cut off 4-5 cm into the healthy part from the lesion. If the whole leaf is rotten, it should be thoroughly removed together with the leaf sheath. Diseased leaves should be promptly taken outside the shed and buried deeply. Diseased and residual plants should be isolated promptly to prevent recurrent infection. The scissors and knives used must also be disinfected to prevent human-mediated spread.
3.4 Chemical control
For bacterial soft rot, from the beginning of disease onset, spray alternately every 7-10 d with Caijunqing at 600 times dilution or agricultural streptomycin at 3 000-4 000 times dilution; for fungal soft rot, 80% thiophanate-methyl or 80% mancozeb at 800-1 000 times dilution can be used, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Spraying should be even, so that the leaf surface drips and the base is soaked. It is best to finish spraying at 15-16 o'clock, so that the water on the leaf surface can dry before nightfall, reducing humidity in the shed and on the leaf surface.
(2)Viruses
The symptoms of virus-infected Phalaenopsis orchids are smaller flowers and slower growth. However, the growth characteristics of some varieties are not affected by viral infection. The symptoms of viruses are more obvious during the low-temperature flowering induction stage. The greatest impact of viruses on Phalaenopsis is on growth rate.
(3)Insects and Small Animals
1. Slugs and Snails
Slugs and snails bite small holes in young plants and can damage many plants within just a few days. They also bite and damage root tips. Pesticides can effectively control these small animals.
2. Mites
Red spider mites cause slight deformation and severe color changes on the leaves. Because they are distributed in concentrated clusters, they can be controlled with insecticides.
3. Thrips: Brown thrips can usually be found on every part of the plant and appear in groups. They are difficult to eradicate with chemical pesticides. Removing infected plants is the best solution.
4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: These insects attack root tips. Applying predatory natural enemies (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150 per 2) and hanging yellow sticky traps can prevent infestation.
5. Locust pests are mostly small locusts. After leaves are damaged, large feeding marks are left; when young flower stalks are damaged, they may break in severe cases; after petals are chewed, the flowers become incomplete.
Control methods: (1) Remove weeds to reduce breeding and resting places for locusts. (2) Use 50% Sumithion emulsion at 1,000 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
6. Scale insects mainly parasitize the leaves, leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs of orchids, using their piercing-sucking mouthparts to penetrate the stomata of orchids and absorb nutrients. In severe cases, leaves turn yellow, wither and drop. They mostly occur in cultivation sites with high humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient sunlight. These pests secrete honeydew, which induces sooty mold, affecting plant growth and ornamental value.
Control methods: (1) When few occur, use a soft brush dipped in water to brush off the eggs, or cut off the affected parts and remove them for burning. (2) Ladybugs are natural enemies of scale insects and can prey on large numbers of them, thereby suppressing their occurrence. (3) When scale insects occur in large numbers, spray 50% Sumithion emulsion at 1,000 times dilution or 50% Malathion emulsion at 800 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
7. Aphids mainly cause damage in spring and early summer, sucking the sap and nutrients from young leaves, young buds and developing flower spikes and buds, causing growth inhibition, deformation and distortion of leaves and flower spikes, and poor development. The honeydew they secrete attracts ants and triggers sooty mold or other fungal diseases.
Control methods: (1) Spray alternately with Omethoate or pyrethrin at 1,000 times dilution. (2) Natural enemies such as Chilocorus kuwanae, Japanese square-headed beetle and Chilocorus rubidus have a good effect in preying on aphids. (3) Use yellow sticky boards for trapping and killing.
8. Whiteflies usually cluster and parasitize orchid plants. In severe cases, entire leaves, leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs are covered with whiteflies. Their reproductive capacity is very strong, causing orchid leaves to dry up and drop.
Control methods: (1) When damage occurs, spray 50% Sumithion emulsion at 1,000 times dilution or 50% Malathion emulsion at 800 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays. (2) Yellow sticky boards can effectively trap and kill greenhouse whiteflies.
9. Rats: Rats gnaw on orchid seedlings, young shoots, flower stalks and even orchid pseudobulbs, often biting them into pieces, causing losses.
Control methods: Set up mousetraps, electric rat traps or poison bait. They often need to be used in rotation to achieve control effectiveness.[12]
(4)Physiological Abnormalities Caused by the Environment
1. Bud Drop
During the flowering completion stage, if light is too strong or temperature is too high, buds easily drop from the flower stalk. Poor root quality can also cause this phenomenon. If flowers are shipped without an acclimation period, bud drop can also occur.
2. Chilling injury during transport:
When plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaf surface, usually caused by cell death due to chilling injury. Other environmental stresses or excessive light can also cause this.
(5)Phytotoxicity: Due to the use of unsuitable chemical pesticides.
Varieties Related to the Classification of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis equestris is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The flowers are slightly smaller.
Phalaenopsis aphrodite is a variety of Phalaenopsis. Leaves are large, flat, thick and fleshy, green, with stripes. The flower stalk branches.
Phalaenopsis schilleriana, also known as Schiller's Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. Leaves are large, oblong, 70 cm long and 14 cm wide, with gray and green stripes on the upper surface and purple on the underside. Flowers are numerous, over 170, with a flower diameter of 8-9 cm, light purple with white edges. Flowering period is spring and summer.
Phalaenopsis mannii, also known as Banna Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. Leaves are 30 cm long, green, with yellow at the base; sepals and petals are orange-red with brownish-purple transverse stripes. The lip is white, 3-lobed, with erect lateral lobes and a truncate apex; the mid-lobe is nearly semilunar, with a raised center at the apex and densely covered with papillose hairs on both sides. Flowering period is March to April.
Phalaenopsis amabilis is a common species in the same genus. Leaves are 40 cm long, with a prominent midrib on the upper surface, green, with purple on the underside; flowers are white, often with green or creamy yellow in the center.
Phalaenopsis philippinensis is a common species in the same genus. The flower stalk is about 60 cm long, drooping. Flowers are brown with purple-brown transverse markings. Flowering period is May to June.
Phalaenopsis stobartiana is a common species in the same genus. Sepals and petals are yellow-green; the lip is purple, with a papillose raised base on the underside.
Distribution Range of Phalaenopsis
Most Phalaenopsis are produced in humid Asian regions, naturally distributed in low-latitude tropical islands such as Assam, Myanmar, the islands of the Indian Ocean, the Malay Peninsula, the Malay Archipelago, the Philippines and Taiwan, China. The Phalaenopsis produced in the forests around Wusenyong in Taitung and on Green Island are the most famous. Variety types: There are about 70 or more native species worldwide, but most native species have small, unshowy flowers. Commercially cultivated Phalaenopsis are mostly artificially hybridized and selected varieties!
There are about 530 or so varieties developed through hybridization and selection. Those with yellow flowers are considered more precious. There is a yellow-flowered variety called "Emperor" that can be called a "superstar," and it commands a very high price. Blue-flowered varieties are also relatively rare. At the International Orchid Exhibitions in 1952 and 1953, the Phalaenopsis sent from Taiwan, China won gold medals and trophies for two consecutive years. At the 14th Orchid Exhibition held in Hong Kong, China in 1989, a white-petaled, red-lipped Phalaenopsis submitted by Mr. Hu Bingchi won the overall grand championship. These outstanding honors laid a solid foundation for the development of Phalaenopsis. Today, the consumption of Phalaenopsis among people in Europe and America continues to increase, and almost no high-end banquet is complete without Phalaenopsis as decoration. Many brides and bridesmaids prefer to use it as bouquets and corsages. Italy alone sold more than 2.6 million Phalaenopsis plants in 1990, setting a historical record. In Hong Kong, China each pot sells for about 70-100 HKD, and cut flowers from the mother stem sell for 15-30 HKD!
The Role, Uses and Home Influence of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis fills a home with a joyful atmosphere, embodying a home style that yearns for happiness. As we all know, there are many kinds of Phalaenopsis. The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stalks with large flowers. It is named for its butterfly-like flower shape. Its flowers are graceful in posture and splendid in color. The most attractive are blue, pink, red, yellow and pink. With so many color choices, if viewed together, they create a colorful effect that can fill a home with a festive atmosphere, like the New Year. Think back to how we feel every New Year: we have many wishes, we are very happy, and everyone has a new beginning. As the saying goes, "Joyful events lift the spirit." Plant Phalaenopsis, and the bright colors make a home full of joy; when you feel good, your spirit is naturally lifted.
Phalaenopsis can create a noble home style. As everyone knows, Phalaenopsis is also relatively expensive among flowers. Just like when we usually buy a piece of clothing, a brand-name item can be recognized at a glance, and that feeling is different. Phalaenopsis is the same, so pairing it with equally classic and expensive Chinese-style furniture adds even more luxurious texture, reflecting a noble, elegant and luxurious home style.
Feng Shui Effects
Besides its ornamental role, Phalaenopsis also has many Feng Shui functions.
1. Phalaenopsis is a yang plant, suitable for people whose Five Elements belong to Fire to grow.
When people use yin-yang and Five Elements Feng Shui adjustment items, they have various different needs and may be restricted by many factors such as setting, time limits, customs and economic conditions. Feng Shui also classifies the Five Elements and yin-yang attributes of various flowers and plants. For example, yang plants are often those suitable for surviving in outdoor, dry, sun-facing environments, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a masculine, upright feeling, or plants with roots, broad leaves, and straight, upward, vigorous characteristics. In contrast, yin plants are those suitable for moist, low-temperature, indoor cultivation, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a delicate, slender, cold and stern feeling; all belong to yin plants. Phalaenopsis belongs to yang plants. People whose Five Elements belong to Fire can place a pot of Phalaenopsis at home, which will be beneficial to development in all aspects.
2. Phalaenopsis has many wonderful flower meanings and symbolic meanings, and from a Feng Shui perspective it has a certain promoting effect.
White-flowered Phalaenopsis: foretells pure love and precious friendship. Placing one at home in a newlywed household foretells a beautiful marriage; for people living with friends, placing one at home foretells harmonious coexistence.
Red Phalaenopsis: means a smooth career and perfect happiness. This is believed to be the wish of all young couples. Plant a red Phalaenopsis to add a touch of color to your marriage and career.
Striped Phalaenopsis: the stripes mean that everything goes smoothly and wishes come true, so striped Phalaenopsis is suitable for every family and people of every age to grow and use as home decoration.
Yellow Phalaenopsis: yellow implies a thriving career and prosperous business. People in business should plant one at home; even if things do not improve, at least they will not get worse. In addition, mini Phalaenopsis represents a happy angel and the prime of youth.
The Cultural Background of Phalaenopsis: Prose for Enjoyment
Phalaenopsis is a beautiful "princess," bringing people much fragrance and beauty.
The stem of Phalaenopsis is dark, the leaves are spoon-shaped and jade-green, and the beautiful flowers emerge from the spoon, wearing purple garments; some have only unfolded two or three petals, some have fully opened all petals, revealing pearl-like stamens; some are still buds, looking as if they are about to burst open at any moment. At this moment, are the Phalaenopsis I see not just little purple butterflies? Oh! I understand, this is how Phalaenopsis got its name.
One little butterfly after another rests on the flower stalk, as if looking at all of us! It also seems to be saying to us: "Everyone, look at me quickly, I am the princess among a hundred flowers!" At this moment Phalaenopsis smiles at us; it nods for a while, looks here for a while, then looks there for a while, and sometimes even dances for us from time to time! Princess Phalaenopsis is really such a mischievous and lovable thing!
Phalaenopsis is truly so beautiful!
The Flower Language of Phalaenopsis
White-flowered Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship
Red-hearted Phalaenopsis: good fortune, eternal union
Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, perfect happiness
Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes smoothly, wishes come true
Yellow Phalaenopsis: thriving career, prosperous business
Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel, in the prime of youth
Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness flies to you
Zodiac signs corresponding to Phalaenopsis: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality and virtue
Phalaenopsis Pictures
How to grow potted Phalaenopsis? Cultivation methods and precautions for Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Phalaenopsis in the Orchidaceae family, also known as butterfly orchid, Taiwan Phalaenopsis, etc. It is an epiphytic orchid native to subtropical rainforest regions. The plant sends out long flower stalks from the leaf axils, blooming flowers shaped like dancing butterflies. It is deeply favored by flower enthusiasts and has long been known as the “Queen of Orchids.” Let us take a look together at the cultivation methods and precautions for Phalaenopsis!
Growth Habits of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis originates from tropical rainforest regions. It likes warmth and fears cold. The suitable growth temperature is 15-20°C. In winter, growth stops below 10°C, and it easily dies below 5°C. Forest trees along riverbanks and coasts with high temperature and high humidity are the places where Phalaenopsis attaches and grows. Because its physiological structure can protect itself from the stress effects of low humidity, but in overly wet environments, high temperature and high humidity are often accompanied by disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60-80%.
Propagation Methods of Phalaenopsis
1. Flower stalk bud induction: The method is to first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has finished flowering, then carefully remove the bracts between the first to third nodes on the upper part of the flower stalk with a blade or sharp knife, exposing the buds in the internodes. Use a cotton swab to evenly apply bud induction agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes. After treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded place with the temperature maintained at 25-28°C. After 2-3 weeks, buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into small Phalaenopsis seedlings with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots. Cut off the small seedlings and pot them to become a new orchid plant.
2. Crown cutting for bud induction: After the growth point of an orchid plant is damaged by some factor, after a period of time, 1-2 new shoots will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis.
3. Stem cutting propagation: The principle of stem cutting propagation is to destroy the stem apex growth point to induce dormant buds to grow. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of Phalaenopsis plants, most cannot sprout into plants. After the plant continuously grows upward and the stem nodes become longer, cut off the upper part of the plant with roots using a sterilized sharp knife or scissors, plant it in a new pot to continue growing, and give the lower part with the rhizome proper water management; new shoots will soon sprout.
4. Tissue culture: Using tissue culture to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics completely identical to the mother plant. Phalaenopsis seedlings produced by this method are called meristem seedlings or tissue-cultured seedlings. The plant tissue used for meristem culture (explant) can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segment (dormant bud), or young leaves or root tips, but currently the most common is the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis.
5. Seed propagation
(1) Natural sowing method: The natural sowing method is to sow the seeds released from cracked seed capsules into the pot of the parent plant. This method is simple and easy, requiring no complicated sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for general home Phalaenopsis growers, but the chance of success by this method is very small and it is rarely used.
(2) Sterile sowing method: The sterile sowing method is to first wash the uncracked mature seed capsules, then immerse them in 75-90% ethanol or chloroform for 2-3 seconds, then soak them in 5-10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5-20 minutes. Take out the seeds and soak them in the same disinfectant solution for 5-20 minutes, then remove the solution by filtration, take out the seeds, and use a fine needle to evenly spread the seeds on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a flask. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000-3000 lux, 10-18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20-26°C. After 9-10 months, when the small seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be taken out of the flask and potted for planting.
Cultivation Methods of Phalaenopsis
1. Temperature: The first thing to ensure when growing Phalaenopsis at home is temperature. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. During the growth period, the minimum temperature should be maintained above 15°C. The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16°C to 30°C. During autumn-winter and the transition between winter and spring, as well as when winter temperatures are low, attention should be paid to increasing warmth.
2. Humidity: Air humidity: higher air humidity is better, but in home cultivation, air humidity is difficult to regulate. You can let the flower slowly adapt. At first, you can spray the leaf surface every day, but the amount should not be too large; just moistening the leaves is enough. Later, gradually reduce the frequency of spraying, stop spraying in September to October, and do not spray again afterward.
3. Light: Appropriate light can promote flowering in Phalaenopsis and make the flowers more brilliant and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a place indoors with diffused light, and direct sunlight should be avoided. After the flowering period of Phalaenopsis, you can leave 3-5 cm of the flower stem and cut off the rest. From May 1 to October 1, it can be placed in a south-facing balcony where sunlight cannot shine directly; from October 1 to May 1, it can be placed near a south-facing windowsill to receive sufficient sunlight.
4. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke and also to avoid infection by pests and diseases.
5. Watering: Use tap water or rainwater to water the flowers. Water thoroughly. You can often insert a finger through the bottom hole of the pot into the potting medium. If it is relatively wet, there is no need to water; if the medium at the bottom is slightly moist, water thoroughly.
6. Disease prevention: Common pests and diseases of Phalaenopsis mainly include soft rot, brown spot, anthracnose, sooty mold, viral disease, scale insects, red spider mites, etc. The main principle is prevention first, strengthening cultivation management measures, improving ventilation conditions, reasonably controlling placement density, and keeping the environment clean. Spray insecticides and fungicides regularly. If diseased plants are found, promptly remove the source of infection, remove diseased leaves and residues, and for severely affected plants, isolate or destroy them to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. In addition, suitable pesticides can be selected for control. During the disease period, 60% carbendazim or 80% thiophanate-methyl can be used, etc. For scale insects and red spider mites, 40% omethoate or 80% dichlorvos at 1000-1500 times dilution can be used for control.
Precautions for Growing Phalaenopsis
1. The natural flowering period of Phalaenopsis is March to May, and the ornamental period can generally reach more than 2 months. Many flower lovers think that home cultivation of Phalaenopsis is difficult, but in fact, with attention to care, it can definitely bloom.
2. Temperature is one of the key factors in caring for Phalaenopsis. The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 18-28°C, but in summer, indoor temperatures are often above 30°C. When caring for it, place Phalaenopsis in a ventilated semi-shaded place, which helps it get through the hot summer. Phalaenopsis needs low temperatures to promote flower bud differentiation. Generally, temperatures below 20°C can achieve the purpose of flower induction, but in winter, indoor temperatures are sometimes below 10°C, which is not conducive to the growth of Phalaenopsis. You can place Phalaenopsis on a sunny windowsill or near heating equipment to increase the temperature.
3. Phalaenopsis likes moisture. During the growth period, the substrate should remain moist. Slightly dry conditions are beneficial to root growth, while long-term excessive moisture can lead to root rot. Indoor relative air humidity should reach above 60%. If the weather is dry, spray water on the plant to retain moisture, forming a microclimate conducive to the growth of Phalaenopsis. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase air humidity.
4. During the seedling stage, the light requirements are not high, and it can be maintained in a semi-shaded environment. Adult plants like sufficient diffused light. In spring, summer and autumn, full light can be given in the morning and evening, with shading at noon; in winter, light can be given all day. Too strong light will scorch the leaves, while too weak light will cause leggy leaves, affecting ornamental value and resulting in poor flowering.
5. After flowering, the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis should be cut off promptly and the pot changed. After removing the pot, remove the original substrate, cut off rotten roots and dead roots, and after replacing with new substrate, continue maintenance.
What to Do If Phalaenopsis Leaves Turn Yellow
1. The top of the new shoots of Phalaenopsis shrinks, young leaves turn pale yellow, and old leaves also gradually turn dark yellow. The cause is prolonged water accumulation leading to a lack of oxygen in the soil, with some roots rotting. You should control watering and stop fertilizing.
2. The new leaves of Phalaenopsis grow thick and glossy, but the leaf surface is uneven, and the old leaves gradually turn yellow and drop. This situation is caused by excessive fertilization. You should immediately stop fertilizing, water appropriately more, and scatter some radish or cabbage seeds into the pot. After the seedlings emerge for a few days, pull them out to consume the excess fertilizer in the pot. In winter, sowing is not suitable; you can transplant a few small plants and then remove them for separate planting.
3. The top and new leaves of Phalaenopsis are normal, but the lower leaves of the plant dry, turn yellow and drop first. The cause is long-term failure to water thoroughly, leading to dehydration of Phalaenopsis. You should water appropriately to keep the potting soil moist from top to bottom.
Reasons Why Phalaenopsis Does Not Bloom
1. Soil reason: Phalaenopsis likes acidity. The optimal soil pH is 4.5 to 5.5, so special attention should be paid to controlling soil pH in daily management. Otherwise, alkaline soil will affect the absorption of water and nutrients by the roots, leading to poor growth and failure to bloom.
2. Temperature reason: The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 23 to 28°C. Only by maintaining this temperature can it bloom well.
3. Light reason: If light is too weak, the growth of Phalaenopsis will be abnormal, often producing more leaf buds and fewer flower buds.
4. Ventilation reason: If Phalaenopsis is placed in a place with poor ventilation and air exchange, the plant is prone to disease, especially during the flowering period. The top of the flower stalk is prone to withering, causing flower buds to turn yellow and affecting flowering. Even flowers that have already bloomed are prone to early decline.
5. Fertilization reason: If fertilization is too concentrated, it easily causes Phalaenopsis flower buds to drop early. During the vegetative growth period, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied, but during the reproductive growth period, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied, which can promote bud emergence and flowering.
6. Watering reason: Insufficient watering can also easily cause leaves to turn yellow, affecting flower bud differentiation and flowering.
What to Do After Phalaenopsis Flowers Fade?
1. If your Phalaenopsis was purchased by yourself or given by a friend around the Spring Festival and was already blooming when purchased, it will basically have no flowers left by now (around the end of March). If you want it to continue flowering, you can choose to keep the flower stalk and take the plant out of the pot to check the root condition.
(1) If there are rotten roots or dry roots, cut them off promptly, check whether the sphagnum moss has rotted, become moldy or otherwise deteriorated, consider whether it needs to be replaced, still use a transparent pot for potting, and carry out normal watering and maintenance, watering when wet and letting it dry between waterings.
(2) If the humidity at home is higher, that is naturally more ideal (if not, it does not matter at all). If you have liquid special fertilizer at home, giving some is naturally better (if not, it does not matter). If the plant is very strong, it will quickly continue to grow new flower buds at the front end of the original flower stalk.
(3) If the plant is relatively weak after flowering and has consumed a lot, with normal maintenance until around May, side stalks will grow from the original flower stalk and produce flower buds, continuing to bloom until around the end of June (this flowering period will be shorter because the climate gradually becomes hotter). After the flowers fade, cut off the flower stalk and carry out normal maintenance.
2. If it is grown at home, it generally begins to grow flower stalks and flower buds around December of the previous year (in rooms with heating), and generally blooms successively in late February to early March, with the flowering period lasting until around the end of May. Then the method is the same as above. If you want to see flowers again, keep the flower stalk and carry out normal maintenance; side stalks will quickly grow from the flower stalk, produce buds and bloom.
3. Whether purchased or home-grown, if after the first flowering you do not want it to continue flowering (this can preserve the plant's strength), cut off the flower stalk promptly, still check the roots and medium, then carry out normal maintenance. By the end of the year, new stalks will naturally sprout and flower buds will frequently appear.
4. Many people think that Phalaenopsis is difficult to care for because they feel it needs a warm, high-humidity environment, and in fact this is true. Having such an environment is naturally a blessing for Phalaenopsis. But Phalaenopsis is very tough. Even without such an environment, it is still easy to care for in the north.
(1) If possible, place it in a place with bright light but not direct sunlight, and reduce water supply. If you feel you do not know how to fertilize, you can always use clean water for maintenance, especially in summer. Try not to fertilize or fertilize less. After summer, to be safe, you can check the roots and medium again to ensure the basic elements for normal plant growth.
(2) The quality of autumn management is an important factor affecting the flowering of Phalaenopsis. Entering autumn, you can apply thin fertilizer frequently to make the plant strong. At this time, you can appropriately increase light. The climate in the north has temperature differences between morning and evening in autumn, which is exactly what promotes Phalaenopsis to develop flower buds. Autumn is dry, so maintain appropriate moisture. If conditions permit, you can use spraying to increase air humidity (it does not matter if you do not spray).
(3) Normally, around the end of December in winter, new flower stalks should grow and flower buds should slowly develop. During maintenance, wind must strictly be prevented from blowing directly onto the flower buds. At the same time, it is best to stop fertilizing and control water to prevent bud drop caused by improper application of fertilizer and water. If the heating indoors is too high, you can increase spraying to maintain humidity.
(4) Usually pay attention to observing root growth. Roots with vitality are the basic element for maintaining plant growth. Roots that are green, robust, firm, and have red root tips indicate vigorous vitality. If you find roots escaping the pot, it indicates a problem with the medium or maintenance, and adjustments are needed. If roots turn black and rot, it indicates excessive water. If some roots show symptoms of drying up, it indicates excessive water deficiency. Under normal conditions, the leaves are bright, glossy, thick and firm, indicating good growth, and new shoots will continuously grow.