Analysis of the Causes of Root Rot Disease in Colored Calla Lilies

 Home-grown calla lilies are not that easy to grow either; they always come down with this disease or that disease. What can be done about it? How can these pests and diseases be eliminated? What should be done if the calla lily's roots rot while you are growing it? What causes this? Let's take a look together with Women's Net:

Colored calla lily diseases:

1. Erwinia

Erwinia disease, also known as soft rot, is caused by Pectobacterium carotovorum subsp. carotovorum. Infected leaves and stems turn dark green, develop necrotic spots and rot spots, and secrete mucus, and eventually the plant collapses. The tubers also begin to rot and give off a foul odor.

Solution: Before planting, the infected tubers should be picked out as early as possible, disinfected as a preventive measure, and a good growing environment should be provided.

2. Penicillium

Penicillium can cause infection during tuber storage, causing damage to tubers during and after storage, especially when the tubers have suffered mechanical damage, when the relative humidity of the storage room is too high, or when air circulation in the microenvironment is insufficient.

Solution: Providing sufficient air circulation can prevent this pathogen from occurring. In addition, fungicides such as captan can be used to disinfect the tubers.

3. Botrytis

Botrytis can occur on flowers and leaves, and on leaves it almost always appears as small spots. Solution: When growing outdoors, preventive treatment combining fungicides and insecticides every 10 days is necessary.

4. Pythium

Pythium causes root rot, which limits the plant's absorption of water. Solution: Crop rotation and precise irrigation (as well as drainage) are important factors in preventing infection. Before planting, the soil should be steam-sterilized and treated with fungicides.

5. Rhizoctonia

Rhizoctonia damages the plant's buds near the soil surface. Solution: Treating the soil with tolclofos-methyl and flutolanil can control this fungus.

6. Aphid damage

Aphid damage causes harm throughout the plant's entire growth process. Solution: Spray twice with parathion before flower harvesting. During cultivation, acephate or deltamethrin can be used preventively every 7 to 10 days.

Causes of root rot in calla lilies:

Dig out the bulbs and wash them clean, remove the rotten parts, soak them in an antibacterial drug such as carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl for about 10 hours, then take them out and let them dry. At this time, be sure they are completely dry, about 2-3 days, and then replant them. When planting, choose a loose, well-draining substrate. Right after planting, there is no need to water too much.

These are the common diseases of calla lilies. Root rot is also relatively easy to deal with. Once root rot is discovered, as long as it is not too severe, the plant can be saved. If even the bulbs are rotting, the chance of saving it is not great.

Peach tree planting methods, how to plant peach trees?

❤❤❤                   ❤❤❤ Indoor plants, this article comes from [Decoration Information]

The peach tree originated in the high-altitude northwestern region of our country, with long sunshine hours and strong light, and it adapts to dry air environments. Peach trees mostly have compound flower buds, are easy to form flowers, have a large number of flowers, and have a high fruit-setting rate for white flowers. Peach trees are most afraid of waterlogging; being flooded for 24 hours will cause the plant to die. In this issue, the editor shares peach tree planting methods with everyone to help you understand how to plant peach trees.

  Peach tree planting methods: Step 1: Soil.Soil is the primary condition for growing peach trees. Peach trees prefer fertile, well-aerated, neutral sandy loam soil. If planted in heavily saline-alkaline soil, peach trees will not only fail to bloom, but will also suffer severe pests and diseases.
  Step 2: Watering.Peach trees are drought-tolerant and afraid of excessive moisture. Generally, aside from watering in early spring and late autumn, there is no need to water in other seasons. However, during high-temperature summer days, appropriate watering is still necessary. In continuous flood weather, drainage work should be done well. This prevents root rot caused by too much water, which can lead to plant death.


  Step 3: Sunlight.Peach trees prefer a dry, sunny environment, so when planting peach trees, choose a location with higher terrain and no shade. Peach trees should not be planted beside ditches or ponds, nor beside large trees with broad crowns, so as not to affect their ventilation and light penetration.
  Step 4: Temperature.Peach trees are relatively cold-tolerant. Ornamental peach normally blooms around Qingming Festival. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, place the ornamental peach bonsai outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot for winterization treatment, then move it indoors about 60 days before the Spring Festival, keeping the room temperature at 15°C to 20°C.


  Step 5: Fertilizing.Ornamental peach likes fertilizer, but it should not be too much. Well-rotted and fermented cow or horse manure can be used as base fertilizer. Apply some sesame paste residue before winter each year. If 1 to 2 applications of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are applied from June to July, it can promote flower bud differentiation.
  Step 6: Pests.Peach tree diseases are quite serious, mainly white rust and brown rot, and pests often grow on the branches and fruit. Therefore, pest and disease control for peach trees must be done well. Otherwise, the lifespan of the peach tree will be very short.


  Step 7: Pruning.Peach trees are generally pruned after flowering. Cut off diseased and pest-infested branches, drooping branches, inner-canopy branches, dead branches, and excessively vigorous branches. Also shorten the branches that have already bloomed, leaving only 2 to 3 buds at the base to wait for regrowth in the next season.


  Notes on peach tree planting: 1. Thinning.Completely removing branches from the base is called thinning. It helps flower bud differentiation and the growth and development of flowers and fruit. It is often used to remove overly dense branches and overly weak branches.
  2. Growing-season pruning.Peach trees like light very much. Growing-season pruning is a key measure for achieving early shaping, early fruiting, and early high yield.
  3. Causes flower and fruit drop.It must be controlled in time. Peach plants are quite sensitive to chemicals. Some organophosphorus chemicals with strong permeability and systemic action should not be used, because they are prone to causing phytotoxicity.



Conclusion:The above is the peach tree planting method introduced by the editor. Peaches have always been very popular in China. Besides the peaches being delicious, the gum secreted from peach tree trunks, commonly known as peach gum, can also be used as an adhesive and so on. Peach blossoms are also one of the commonly used colored nursery stock, with a very good beautifying effect, and they are also a relatively common variety among indoor ornamental plants in homes today.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas need to be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
pothos, money tree, Peperomia obtusifolia, Sun God, Calathea, Xanadu, Mariane, Sansevieria, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as Ludisia discolor, snake plant, and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no peculiar smell, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine, and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they can precipitate each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So at present, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions sold on the market are only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Under normal circumstances, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to healthy root growth. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also should not be too little. If there is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do hydroponic flowers at home need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If it is a shade-loving species, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small species, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, after adding feed, the nutrient solution is also prone to becoming cloudy, and the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution decreases, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the rate of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once about every 15-20 days. When replenishing, just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. During storage, the concentrated nutrient solution should be kept away from light as much as possible and should not be placed where children can reach it.
Experience talk on home hydroponic flowers

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor and no peculiar smell, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible in material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia picta, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia macrorrhizos, pothos, lucky bamboo, Asparagus setaceus, spider plant, aloe, Commelina communis, Tradescantia zebrina, Coleus scutellarioides, Dracaena fragrans, Chamaedorea elegans, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, and so on. In addition, Salvia splendens, azalea, Camellia japonica, Cyclamen persicum, Hippeastrum rutilum, calla lily, Euphorbia milii, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, hyacinth, and so on, these flowering plants have good results when grown hydroponically. Nephrolepis cordifolia, Calendula officinalis, Petunia hybrida, and Excoecaria cochinchinensis have relatively low survival rates when used as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water can be used. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (with the narrow neck cut off), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, and so on, and the opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container and mainly serve to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C to 28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, Cyclamen persicum, hyacinth, azalea, Camellia japonica, and so on are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full blooming period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full plant shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the root soil clean with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted and aged; for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes; this not only disinfects and sterilizes, but also promotes new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off, and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made 2 to 3 mm below a stem node. The cut surface should be trimmed smooth with a sharp knife (wiped clean and disinfected with white liquor in advance), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water for hydroponics and water changing. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-sedimenting, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily forms sediment, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Changing water. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. The nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant in considerable amounts, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7 to 10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4 to 6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15 to 20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will begin to grow. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used for their specific purposes, and mismatching should be avoided. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia flowers, it will cause the clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as for pothos, Dieffenbachia picta, and so on.

Pest and disease control techniques for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught manually or washed away with tap water. There are not many infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-rot lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Muggy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by the hot sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high a nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the detached section, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node; at this point, it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, Cordyline fruticosa, Syngonium podophyllum, and so on can all use this method.

Complete handbook for home hydroponic flowers

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use branches of flowers as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, grow them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and Billbergia, and these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a cultivation container that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, does not leak, and has no drainage hole.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients necessary for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macro elements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 L (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC < 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and pour in the hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a unique charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogenic bacteria, and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable amounts. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let the tap water out, store it in a relatively large-mouthed bucket for a few days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and maintain green leaf color.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and spray twice during the growing period, which can make hydroponic flowers lush and vigorous. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, Begonia cucullata, Begonia maculata, calla lily, and so on, during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-tolerant, such as ivy, Vinca major, and Senecio articulatus, and grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and scorched brown spots appear on the leaf edges, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as Begonia maculata, Begonia cucullata, and Coleus scutellarioides. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colorful-leaf flowers, such as Coleus scutellarioides and Codiaeum variegatum, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of the displayed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flowers 180 degrees relative to their original orientation for cultivation, so that the flowers will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. The simple method is to spray water on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to the balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle spray head so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run off. For the relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow plate or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a well-ventilated environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and turbid air, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the doors and windows in the room are not opened and some even draw the curtains, then in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are displayed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner, which is beneficial to both the growth of hydroponic flowers and human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught manually or washed away with tap water. There are not many infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-rot lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Muggy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by the hot sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high a nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the detached section, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node; at this point, it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, Cordyline fruticosa, Syngonium podophyllum, and so on can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate for display

Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered that based on the room's area, planting one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m is more suitable. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can satisfy ornamental needs without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "shoulds":

First, you should choose flower species suitable for hydroponics. If you buy species unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot away. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of terrestrial plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella papyrus, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, and so on.

Second, you should choose flower species with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in an ordinary home, making them susceptible to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little extra protection include Swiss cheese plant, purple heart, aloe, spider plant, umbrella papyrus, parlor palm, broadleaf lady palm, and so on.

Third, you should choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors lift soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need a period of adaptation before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so you must carefully distinguish them when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, you should choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, vigorous branches and leaves and plump, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not need extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely separated from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil like soil-cultivated flowers do, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through a planting basket to produce water roots, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutagenesis. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit space, and increases their competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting basket is used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater can change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are more difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can cultivate flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be cultivated together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term raising, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proved that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquito larvae are not easy to breed in the nutrient solution, and if you pour discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your home's potted flowers when changing water, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proved that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower species

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilation tissue inside their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilation tissue to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; some flowers, although they do not have ventilation tissue and aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are very adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower species that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and must not blindly cultivate them, so as to avoid hydroponic failure.

Flower species adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can take root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, and quickly form a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-cultivated plants are washed, most of their existing root systems can adapt to a hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Chinese evergreen, dumb cane, Aglaonema 'Silver King', Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', clustered Philodendron 'Spring Glory', mini Swiss cheese plant, Swiss cheese plant, Spathiphyllum, green emerald, philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', arrowhead plant, Alocasia, anthurium, jade gem, and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple heart, Tradescantia spathacea, Lophatherum gracile, inch plant, and so on, all of which can quickly take root and grow in water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, Aloe arborescens, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, Cordyline fruticosa, dragon tree, Dracaena angustifolia, snake plant, Agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged Chinese evergreen, silver-edged Liriope, and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Sedum spectabile, silver jade, jade plant, kalanchoe, and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Aucuba japonica, umbrella papyrus, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, green emerald, clivia, lady's slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, Senecio articulatus, Pereskia, triangle bamboo, Guzmania, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, star jasmine, Euphorbia antiquorum, Cereus, variegated periwinkle, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio macroglossus, English ivy, ivy, broadleaf lady palm, parlor palm, and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower species, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:

Although some flowers are very adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering, such as some species of Dieffenbachia and croton, whose overwintering temperature is required to be above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. Of course, this is not a problem for rooms heated in winter, but for most families, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will dry and scorch, or new scorched spots will appear on the leaves, even causing a large amount of leaf drop or partial branch and leaf death, thereby losing ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable heating conditions, you must pay attention to choosing flower species with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Chinese evergreen, star jasmine, broadleaf lady palm, Agave, Aucuba japonica, jade plant, sea onion, variegated Liriope, and so on, can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Swiss cheese plant, purple heart, Lophatherum gracile, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella papyrus, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, Chloranthus, Cereus, variegated periwinkle, ivy, parlor palm, and so on, can overwinter safely with a little protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Emerald', arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, croton, and so on, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so you can also consider buying and cultivating them when spring is warm.

The issue of shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple heart, and inch plant need sufficient scattered light, but peace lily, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Chinese evergreen, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions in rooms differ, you should choose suitable flower species according to the light conditions of the placement position, so as to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow excessively, stems to become thin, internodes to become longer, leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and proper luster, colored stripes on leaves to fade, and even cause a large amount of leaf drop, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Technique for growing spider plant in water

Spider plant, with fresh green leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower bottle is a bottomless bottle vessel. Plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve so that the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, pest-damaged leaves), keep robust leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle. Put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution in the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week. When changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill it with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Add flower nutrient solution through the roots while adding water and changing water. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. Do not spray water on the flowers when blooming, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and emerged in waters or swamps in forest areas. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and so on. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop ventilation tissue under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, those that have close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
First, Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system believes that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, and with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, water taro, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and in appearance form a "negation" of their aquatic ancestors. Finally, they transform into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia. This return is another "negation," namely the dialectical law of "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
Second, Araceae belongs to Arales, and this order has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close kinship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
Third, the relationship of Arales in the plant classification system: The Hutchinson system believes that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marshy Najadales. The Takhtajan system believes that Arales, Arecales, and Dasypogonales have a common ancestor (primitive lily-like plants), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system believes that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponics, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot. Root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After root rot, gently pull at the root zone, and the epidermis is very easy to tear off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off in time. Generally, root rot gradually rots upward from the root tip. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it in time.

Simple hydroponic facilities - bottles, jars, and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), and so on, with slight adjustment, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only adapts to local conditions and makes full use of materials, but also can green the surrounding environment, with a charming flavor of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, and so on were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the selected container mouth, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "well"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that roots can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also has a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used as clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the plant seedlings to be hydroponically grown or purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps left from making shoulder pads, sofa cushions, chair cushions, and so on), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken it so that it can just be stuffed into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be properly cut and used as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapped around the root system together with the exposed roots into a bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. With the seepage and absorption effect of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system with nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent the liquid temperature from rising sharply due to sun exposure, it is best to have shading measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, and so on with a certain strength can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, lay them flat with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board of the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. In addition, cut a small hole about 2 cm in diameter on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner clear area of the box and 2.5-3 cm thick as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1-2 cm in diameter on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate roots extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board for seepage and absorption of nutrient solution. If these items really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the seepage-absorbing cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron) and immerse into the nutrient solution to seep and absorb nutrient solution, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or from the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of just planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can seep upward. The highest liquid level must definitely leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, add nutrient solution until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until completely renewed.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow good growth. A simple method is to spray mist on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and then move the flowers back indoors for display after spraying). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not flow down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Swiss cheese plant and clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors and doors and windows are tightly closed with turbid air, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened indoors, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither obtain the needed light nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are placed should open doors and windows regularly to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Air-conditioned rooms can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry leaf tips in flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner. This is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need this work done well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain leaf color luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but without strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of displayed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. The reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and soil replacement once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the water-changing interval should be shorter in the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water began to appear in Europe only in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won warm welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. In this way, the preparation work is complete, and you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, remove the purchased cyclamen potted flower together with the substrate (flower soil) from the pot, place it under a faucet and rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin of water and rinse the substrate off in the water, then rinse it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, and try to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method for Hoya with exposed roots

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic experiments, it has the following characteristics: ① saves labor; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ can appreciate roots, leaves, and flowers.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottle bottom, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day. After one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between water-growing and hydroponic flowers

In recent years, some water-grown and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-grown and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water-growing generally have enlarged bulbs, which store rich nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it, without supplying nutrients. Flowers suitable for water-growing mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-grown flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second, change water frequently, insisting on changing water once every 2-3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7-10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third, maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

For hydroponic flowers, the plant roots are fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, and the root system is soaked in water, while the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution cultivation. The habits and internal structure of plants suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, Chinese evergreen, clustered Philodendron 'Spring Glory', Swiss cheese plant, jade plant, inch plant, kalanchoe, and so on.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, through 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as tiger tongue orchid, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-grown plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and be careful to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods. Several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: characterized by all or part of the plant root system being immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvement is made: the plastic bag is changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problems of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap black plastic film around the bottle, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, with the standard being that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper outside the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave openings for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water cutting to promote roots, there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in non-growing seasons.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be completely exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, aeration can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: You can use fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself. The formula is as follows:

Formula 1: (pH 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Formula 2: (pH 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Preparation method for trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.

Various Hydroponic Methods for Flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed with. Cut a portion of the stem or branch from a selected mother plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting the branch, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into the water. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select ornamental flowers that are robust in growth and already established in soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. It is best to use running water when washing the roots. Place the washed flowers into a prepared container and add tap water to cover 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Change the clean water once a day initially, washing the roots and container at the same time. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water every 7-10 days or even longer.

③ Tiller stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia (Clivia miniata), bromeliads, etc. The method is simple with a high survival rate. Select a larger tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, and use your hands or a sharp blade to separate the tiller from the mother plant (protecting the tiller's roots well). Wash off the soil attached to the roots and cultivate them using the hydroponic method.

④ Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to several small plantlets, most of which have a small amount of fully developed roots. Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) and stolon bromeliads both have this characteristic. Taking advantage of this feature, removing the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, clivia (Clivia miniata), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), and bulb flowers such as tulips, lilies, hyacinths, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), and gladiolus.

Guide to the Difficulties of Summer Care for Hydroponic Flowers

I. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in a non-solid medium (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are grown in still water, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient container. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water-grown silvery edge grass

II. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are various methods to increase dissolved oxygen, which can be summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution

Changing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared to the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large, as too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorders in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered and rotten roots, and cut back aged roots to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito eggs or larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced immediately with a new one.

2. Vibration aeration

For hydroponic flowers in smaller containers, as long as the roots are clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to hold the flower steady with one hand and hold the container with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

The vibration aeration method is not suitable for hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in still water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made based on this principle. The entire frame is a flower cultivation container, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. When working, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly like letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and the growth is noticeably better than with still-water hydroponics.

Cleaning and changing the solution for the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the container

If you keep hydroponic flowers and also have a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put an air stone into the still-water hydroponic flower container to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, lest the nutrient solution splash out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also gives good results.

III. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers grown for both their flowers and leaves. Such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), white jade evergreen (Aglaonema), peace lily (Spathiphyllum), anthurium (Anthurium), bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form, and it is impossible to change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly humid, cooler environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them too shaded either, lest photosynthesis be blocked, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thinner. This can cause the leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner. Too fast wind speed can damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. Also consider that the temperature requirements of flowers are higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature with the air conditioner on, which is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity. Place the flowers farther away from the air outlet of the air conditioner. If the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature also rises, microorganism growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, causing the dissolved concentration to be too high, can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), fine-leaved dragon tree (Dracaena angustifolia), and five-colored dragon tree (Dracaena marginata).

The following methods can help root-rotted flowers recover their growth:

① Remove all the rotten root system. If the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the pruned flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the washed flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ Newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water. Once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growth in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, the container has good transparency, the environment is bright, or the time between nutrient solution changes is too long, algae will multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower root system impede root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the root system, and replace with new nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching an "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, belonging to a soilless cultivation method, in which the flower root system is anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you cultivate five or six bottles or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers at the same time, with different varieties, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each type of flower. For simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and trace elements), with a balanced ratio of various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, and a wide range of applications. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and have a pH value and ion concentration favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop to purchase products from manufacturers with good reputations.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and robust in growth, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine root systems that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, peace lily (Spathiphyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini Monstera deliciosa, red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron species, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For flowers such as coleus (Coleus), begonia (Begonia), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to safely pass the summer.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers that sprout roots in hydroponic conditions has changed, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial for flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties that are closely related to moisture-loving flowers. ② Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have proven that Araceae plants such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), mini Monstera deliciosa, red gem Philodendron, green giant (Philodendron), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their root systems rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the root system from damage as much as possible or minimizing it. Use a larger-capacity container for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic Method for Lucky Bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. Plant form slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves long lanceolate, dark green, leaf stalk sheath-like. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped dragon tree, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Likes high temperatures and high humidity. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: Suitable for ample scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic Method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower, lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes short, leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. Spathe upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, spadix yellow and straight.

Habits

Likes high temperatures, high humidity and a semi-shaded environment. Avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and overwintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root washing method

Hydroponic Method for Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had a compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Substrate preparation

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water. After air-drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium EDTA, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of flower bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so apply full-strength nutrient solution once every 10 days or so. From March until the flower buds break, spray foliar fertilizer once every 15 days or so. After flowering, the water requirement is large. In addition to watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves. The fertilizer amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution once every 20 days or so. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution once every half month or so, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so it is not suitable to fertilize; just water appropriately according to the degree of substrate dryness. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic Method for Broadleaf Lady Palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems cylindrical, unbranched, jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes warm, shady and humid conditions and a well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Select a plant with a large, dense clump. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep each divided plant with a certain plant shape. Then repot, water thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded and humid location, and spray water on the leaves frequently. After growth resumes, it can be transferred to normal care.

Sowing is done in autumn after the seeds mature, sowing in pots immediately after collection. Move into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge in the second spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasites.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Suitable for potted root washing. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic Method for Purple Velvet Plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves opposite, long ovate. Leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. The purple velvet plant is bright, beautiful and elegant in color, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and place them in a shaded and humid place after cutting. They can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips promptly to promote lateral branch sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high summer temperatures, root rot occurs easily.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch the tips promptly to promote new shoot sprouting.

Hydroponic Method for Parlor Palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, short in stature. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring markings. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum wintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn dry and yellow, but when it is too shady the leaf color will also fade.

2: The parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the bare lower part reduces its ornamental value, so when planting you can grow small plants below it.

Obtaining hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing in water, new roots can grow within a few days.

Hydroponic method for ball cacti

We know that ball cacti are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because ball cacti are grown using traditional methods, they have problems of being dirty and difficult to manage, and more people end up killing their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of ball cacti has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First we must select a ball cactus with a sturdy body; the key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem section protrudes downward. Ball cacti grafted onto three-angled sword (Hylocereus undatus) are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Processing

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots at the bottom of the ball, and the cut should be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem section clean with water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or make one from a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and processed ball cactus at the mouth of the bottle with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem section. In production we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent vessels make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem section). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing the golden ball cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and use it inverted; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden ball cactus can emerge from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat container with nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword into the triangular holes; at this point all the roots of the three-angled sword just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic processing

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the vessel, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially designed for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall in the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve a flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted ball cactus in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Replace the nutrient solution immediately after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of the ball cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball, as it easily causes the ball to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a both hygienic and simple cultivation method; when growing it at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can enjoy the leaves, the flowers, and also its root system. You can use a glass bottle; you can also use a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, note that foliar feeding is needed to supply the nutrients required for the growth of clivia.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes, and the frequency depends on the weather; when the temperature is lower, change it about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change it once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis (Hippeastrum) hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have already bloomed or not yet bloomed, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and then place them in a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, a basin, or a narcissus pot, etc.; place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc. inside, then place the processed amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a spot indoors with sufficient light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots to emerge. The water in the basin must always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be replenished in time; every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. Amaryllis bulbs grown this way hydroponically will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and its supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans have had a history of planting, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture," composed of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first carried out precise soilless cultivation experiments, successfully growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are divided into hydroponic flowers with medium and hydroponic flowers without medium. Hydroponics with medium refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without medium are further divided into direct hydroponics, floating hydroponics, planting basket hydroponics, mist hydroponics, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its pros and cons, but if measured only by beauty, durability and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponics form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because there are computers to timely control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc., and there are specialized technicians using pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without medium; and without medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to not rot roots, not produce odor, have no off-odor, and grow normally even when lacking oxygen. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, so the nutrient solution must be able to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis, so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just a try; you only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and below 0°C their tissues will undergo necrosis. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter generally does not fall below 5°C, and if there are a few days of extreme low temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, this can also satisfy the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated; in homes with balconies, there are more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Each of our specialty stores has a sample of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and due to the limited volume, fish species should also be selected accordingly. You should choose some fish species with strong adaptability, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Some aggressive or destructive fish are also not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also not suitable, because even raising them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed, let alone in a relatively poor-conditioned small vase. Water changes can be carried out at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally raise fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, thereby facilitating the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on non-particularly hot days there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, generally tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If using well water or river water, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water; if a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will make the chlorine in tap water evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from being damaged at the root hairs due to a sudden temperature change, causing the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction with sufficient water; this is shown when a plant lacks water in the surface soil, in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow toward deeper soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time the root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water, because they will not lack water, have messy root growth with no obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time you do not need to add water, and let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can take a bonsai that has already grown full of water roots out of its pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, embellish it with stones or decorations, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you must replace the clean water with nutrient solution, and it is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, due to the respiration and metabolism of the roots, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and need to change the soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by your water change interval being too long, the nutrient solution ratio being wrong (too dilute or too concentrated), or the light being too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from fake hydroponic flowers

At present many companies are developing franchise hydroponic flower stores, causing a great commotion across the country; in particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to maintain the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, having witnessed everything I cannot help but complain a little. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed and directly soaked in water can be kept in water for a period of time; flooding-tolerant plants such as Araceae plants can be kept in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot and plant physiological respiration becomes strong, oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic work bought home for dozens or hundreds of yuan is only a fleeting show, which not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception tricks" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate, their respiration weakens, and in addition Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance, so after root washing and direct soaking in water, for a time no discomfort can be seen from the plant's appearance, but it is impossible for it to grow vigorously in water; it can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked, and once the weather turns hot, the root system will become oxygen-deficient, foul-smelling and rot. For other plants that are slightly more terrestrial, their method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason why they currently can only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think, would be better and more accurately called "deception liquid." It is simply impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize; if the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be said to be a money scam. First, the technology has no technological content at all; it is just root washing and soaking in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself is something that has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to a certain company; using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market, and other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. So the franchise fee is also equivalent to being thrown away. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport; in fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing; it might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring, after root washing and soaking in water, can also be kept in water for a period of time; you might as well give it a try, and there is absolutely no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology abroad. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of quacks and swindlers, a motley assortment, with the fake mixed in with the genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be swept out of the game by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to distinguish true from fake hydroponic flowers

True and fake hydroponic flowers are actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower sellers do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but proceed only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers, and causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die before long due to physiological discomfort, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from fake from the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Distinguish true from fake by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into main roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they will not exist in the state of multi-level branched secondary roots; even if there is branching, it is also a small amount of branching roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few levels and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of primary adventitious roots increases significantly, that is, the root proportion is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Distinguish true from fake by root color: Water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white and crisp-tender; even for some varieties that show their original root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, pale brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that the cells have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification from cell wall thickening.

C. Distinguish true from fake by root completeness: Roots induced by aquatic culture begin regrowth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so they have root completeness; whereas some soil-cultivated plants, although carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots, and such root completeness is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Distinguish true from fake by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions will discharge large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites through anaerobic respiration, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate, showing a turbid and unclear appearance to the naked eye, that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually seedling death.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from fake: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, show a noticeably more flat leaf attachment angle than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leading to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the requirements for environmental factors such as light, temperature and humidity being exactly the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have a world of difference in the management of water, fertilizer and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source; generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has been filtered, settled and sterilized, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used for growing hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly; if one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, facilitating nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more impermissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L; the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, and especially important in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Vibration aeration: hold the flower plant steady with one hand, and with the other hand gently shake the vessel more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution, or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a micro submersible pump or an oxygen pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution; plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

Seeing through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish raised together and a combination of motion and stillness, are its first intuitive impression. The earlier concept in China first sprouted at the turn of the 21st century (although the earliest people also grew some easily water-cultivated plants such as Araceae and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the "hydroponic flowers" concept popular now!). It arose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision threw themselves into the preliminary research and planning work of this industry. Coupled with the broadcasting of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have blossomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on a show in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this market trend. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand; those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market trend, and those who could survive were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, such a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry, and driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, what are truly hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody, vine, and succulent plants), and a few cute small fish raised below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, so that the physiological traits of their root system change, possessing water roots with plant aeration tissue structure, and being able to adapt to long-term cultivation in water, only then can they become truly hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, how to identify truly hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current status of hydroponic flower technology. One, introduction:
For a successful, truly hydroponic plant, the plant root system that has undergone induction and acclimation should have white, elegant roots with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants; the roots of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has a unique color; for example, after induction, the red-flowered loropetalum has roots, branches and stem sections all deep red! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are also nearly white in color!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago, placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

Judging from the technology:

1) Whether it possesses a professional technical level

If, as some merchants say, only the so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," "nutrient solution" are needed, soaking the plant in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting, so a large amount of fermentation products will accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects will breed, the water will be turbid and unclean, and the plant will soon die!
Only by truly achieving the induction of plant water roots, forming hydroponic plants with aeration tissue that can well adapt to the low-oxygen state in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone; it requires the integration of multiple methods and means such as biological, physical, and computer techniques, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, fully adapting to the water environment, can it become professional, truly hydroponic flowers!

2) Whether it has a relatively strong artistic combination level and ability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption, and their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water, grass and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from the natural senses, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer has such an aesthetic level!

3) Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and a fixed supply channel?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there is neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded manufacturer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely just making "hydroponic flowers" from soil-cultivated plants after root washing!

Checking from the varieties:

The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to those plants that are themselves easy to grow in water, such as Araceae and Crassulaceae, like peace lily (Spathiphyllum), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, ball cactus, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Polyscias fruticosa, and even yew, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single, it is definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the ultimate and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water, but are only a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours by washing off the soil-cultivated roots, and within a few days the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, most are speculators. If the merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
Four, how to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by interests, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and in information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the general consumers and investors. In order to make some so-called high-tech shell companies, which have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, and which rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), in research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), in institutions subordinate to the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Bureau of Retired Cadres of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or in office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, have no place to stand; and also to make the "guerrilla" companies that transfer technology and then move to another place after one shot lose their deceptive market, and even more for you to be able to learn these several genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds: No matter where in the country or in what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to go to the franchisees to take a look, to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, then you should think twice before acting; this is the most direct and final way to judge. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "drinking shills," fool you with the skill of "master trickster" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible for you to guard against it!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product route, in fact, everyone only needs to be a little more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types


 How to carry out root-outside fertilization for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics is a cultivation method under the condition of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-holed spray pot should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off; the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, four-season begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage you can spray the leaves once a week with a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution until the flowers open.