Is the Watermelon Peperomia Toxic? Detailed Propagation Methods

 The Watermelon Peperomia gets its name because its leaves look quite similar to watermelon rind. What are the propagation methods for Watermelon Peperomia? Is it toxic?

Watermelon Peperomia propagation methods:

1. Division

Generally done in spring and autumn, with a temperature of around 20 degrees being most suitable, carried out together with repotting and soil changing, since the plant has to be pulled up anyway; shake off the soil and use a sharp knife to cut off the new shoots.

Do not damage the mother plant or the new shoots; cut carefully. If the pot is completely filled, then any side branches broken off at random can be used for propagation.

2. Cuttings

Select a strong-growing branch (a 5-8 cm branch), cut it off with a knife, remove the leaves from the lower part of the cut branch, let the wound dry slightly, or apply plant ash, then insert it into slightly moist sandy soil and keep it in semi-shade; it will root before long (at a temperature of around 20 degrees)!
3. Leaf cuttings

Leaf cuttings are also very simple. Choose some robust, thick, healthy leaves and cut them off together with the petiole using a knife. Wait until the wound on the petiole has healed (after 3 or 4 hours).

Insert the petiole diagonally into slightly moist sandy soil, keep the temperature at around 30 degrees, place in semi-shade, and keep the potting soil slightly moist, but of course not too wet, otherwise the leaves will rot right away, so ventilation is essential, and the leaf-cutting container must drain well.

Watermelon Peperomia pest and disease protection:

Rot is usually caused by frequent watering and poor ventilation. It can be controlled by spraying carbendazim, propiconazole, etc., and spraying Bordeaux mixture to control the spread of the disease.

As for pests, red spider mites and scale insects occasionally appear, but they are not common. If only a few are found, just kill them directly; you can also spray dicofol or hexythiazox to control red spider mites, and spray methidathion or chlorpyrifos to control scale insects.

Notes: The growing environment must be well ventilated, and routine cleaning should be done often. In winter, protect against cold and keep warm; in summer, cool down and provide shade. Flower pots and potting soil should be disinfected before use.

Is Watermelon Peperomia toxic?

There is no information saying that Watermelon Peperomia is toxic. That is, it is non-toxic, so everyone can grow it with peace of mind.

What Is the Peperomia? The All-Knowing Netizens Tell You!

Question: Is it true that the Peperomia can protect against radiation?
Answer: Plants with thicker, fleshy leaves have a stronger radiation-protection effect. This is also why most people say that plants of the cactus family protect against radiation, because cacti and similar families are mostly succulent plants with thick, juicy leaves or stems. Peperomia is a type of plant in the Piperaceae family and is suitable for pot cultivation; its leaves are emerald green and it is fairly easy to grow, making it popular with many people. It does have a certain radiation-protection effect itself.


Question: Is the Peperomia toxic?
Answer 1: The Compendium of Materia Medica records that the flowers of the "Biyu zhan" are slightly toxic. Although people cannot sense it, it is still not suitable for growing in the bedroom.

Answer 2: "Biyu" is a type of Hetian jade, which Chinese people have worn for thousands of years. Chinese people often say that people nourish jade and jade nourishes people. It has been this way for thousands of years. So it should not be toxic.

Answer 3: No. Green-leaf Peperomia is also called Doubanlv, Jiaocao, or Feicui Jiaocao, or "little jasper." It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Peperomia in the Piperaceae family. The plant height is 20-25 cm, with round stems, branching, and light green with purplish-red markings. The leaves are alternate, slightly fleshy, oblong, deep green, and glossy.

With a glossy surface, up to 15 cm long, wedge-shaped at the base, with short petioles. The spike inflorescence is 2.5-18 cm long, with small greenish-white flowers; the peduncle is shorter than the spike and smooth and hairless. The fruit has a curved, sharp beak. It is the representative species of upright Peperomia.

Answer 4: Non-toxic, and this plant can also be used medicinally. According to traditional Chinese medicine theory, when taken internally it can dispel wind and dampness, relieve cough and reduce phlegm. When used externally, it can treat bruises and fractures, so it is also an important part of Chinese herbal medicine.


Question: I really like the Peperomia. I want to know what its flower language is.

Flower language: neutrality and justice, faith, the gentleman, harmony between men and women, marital love

Purple-edged Peperomia: gentle and reserved

Round-leaf Peperomia: good reputation spreading fragrance, neutrality and justice

Watermelon Peperomia: good fortune and auspiciousness


Question: How should the Peperomia be grown?

Answer 1: The green Peperomia likes a warm, humid climate, avoids direct sunlight, and is best grown in semi-shade. It is fairly drought-tolerant; indoors it will not wither even without watering for several days. In hot weather, it needs frequent water spraying on the leaves to increase air humidity. In spring, summer, and autumn, 50% of the sunlight should be shaded out; in winter, no shade is needed. Growth stops below 10 degrees, and it suffers damage below 5 degrees. When the plant grows to about 10 cm, it should be pinched back to ensure side branches sprout and make the plant shape full.

Answer 2: Growing environment
Water: Likes moisture. During the growing period from May to September, water more; in hot weather, spray or sprinkle water on the leaves to maintain higher air humidity and keep the leaf patterns clear and the leaf color emerald green.
Fertilizer: Fertilize once a month until overwintering. 
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil; can be mixed with river sand, loam, and leaf mold.

Temperature: Likes warmth; the suitable growing temperature is around 25°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 10°C.
Light: Avoid direct sunlight; best grown in semi-shade.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue the cold protection and insulation work for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after blooming; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic sheds include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus fern, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. By the end of February, species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic sheds in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood, and oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings by the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, jewel flower, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum anguliger, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, whitebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate excellent varieties such as "Suxin," "Xinkou," and "Huti" Chimonanthus; using bagging and inflating to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use strong branches of the rose variety "Elizabeth" as rootstock scions, and cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent rose scions; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Chaenomeles, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea, Rohdea, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant types, Kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, red-flowered Spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, tiger thorn, Magnolia liliflora, four-season osmanthus, bamboo fern, and, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly types, Ardisia, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, processed, and then sand-stored to promote germination; only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any mold has appeared; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus types, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edged holly, daisy, calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus types, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer types, Wisteria, crape myrtle, Chimonanthus, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia types, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, linden, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia types, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, purple machilus, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two continuous months of indoor (or shed) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so cold protection and moisture retention work should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic sheds have heating facilities, continue heating and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the shed or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the shed, they can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, ventilation and air exchange should continue. Especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the highest-temperature period of the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers grown at home, such as Milan, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Iron Cross Begonia, Croton, Diefenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves lose green color, and flower buds stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or shed air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, nandina, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Ardisia, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves remain emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic sheds for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or plastic sheds, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or plastic shed differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February most potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be done promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, timely supplementary watering should be done. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, around noon on fine days, appropriate leaf spraying should also be done to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward, which would affect recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic sheds) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum anguliger, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic sheds, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, except for retaining 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, to promote many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water shoots, dead branches, and irregular branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, plum yew, ficus, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, water poplar, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, Serissa, juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end and the root system is resuming growth but the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted by the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Milan, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, two-color jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum anguliger, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, Kalanchoe, Amaryllis, Asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles, Hydrangea, nandina, Croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia, Pyracantha, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, spray 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted cyclamen in plastic sheds, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic sheds, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the shed is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic sheds, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular cake fertilizer powder can be spread in flower pots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used to prepare culture soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been fully plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, ditches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    In February, plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring include, Podocarpus, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, ginkgo, Serissa, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water poplar, Caragana, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, Chaenomeles, crape myrtle, ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue cold protection and insulation work so that they remain in an environment not lower than 0°C at all times, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Flower species for ground planting

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or if the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 meters, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, broadleaf Mahonia, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, and wetness in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be suited to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose large-specimen plants that grow relatively slowly but are basically formed, so that greening and beautification effects can be achieved earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 meters; eighth, leave some empty ground for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, globe amaranth, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, calendula, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea, purple-backed Rohdea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for pot cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose some flower species requiring more meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Milan, camellia, poinsettia, Chimonanthus, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia, bromeliads, Zamioculcas (dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum types (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, nerve plant, Croton, Syngonium, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, pocketbook plant, fish-tail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, bamboo palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles, four-season osmanthus, cacti, Asparagus fern, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum anguliger, Monstera, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: crape myrtle, redbud, Chimonanthus, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. For the latter five, the seeds all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand stratification to promote germination include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia types, osmanthus, Aesculus, nandina, holly types, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, five-color pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow types, four-o'clock, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-sensitive types should be sown inside plastic shed covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum anguliger, portulacaria, jewel flower, Echeveria, Hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in sheds or indoors.

    3. Grafting. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliflora seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select excellent-variety Chimonanthus scions, carry out cut grafting and give bagging to retain moisture, and the survival rate is relatively high; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably in a plastic shed. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus, red maple, Podocarpus, Michelia, Chaenomeles, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, etc.

    5. Division. In March, flower species that can be propagated by division include: orchid grasses, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, Asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for transplanting Chimonanthus, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after budding it does not matter, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball must be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, and chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light penetration of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them; this can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year. For some flowers and trees easily infected by pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, calendula, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edged lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, iris, Reineckea, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, oak, etc. placed in the open, repot before they bud and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh culture soil that is loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor white Michelia, Milan, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Monstera, Clivia, Syngonium, arrowroot, etc., repot before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal importance must be given to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March cold protection and insulation work must still continue. In late March, doors and windows of the home can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that white Michelia, Milan, Chloranthus, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera, little angel, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding too-early sprouting that affects that year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, insulation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, white Michelia, sago palm, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, areca palm, Croton, Asparagus fern, and begonia types, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, irregular branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For trident maple, Podocarpus, true cypress, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Chinese ash, oak, red bark tree, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done in March before budding, to further perfect their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia, etc., strong renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before budding.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a good small environment for growing flowers. More often, they grow some ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant types. Their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle shapes, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originated in arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (yellow-haired cactus, mountain shadow fist, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Prajna cactus, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), portulacaria, jade plant, jewel flower, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum anguliger, leaf cactus, Kalanchoe, etc. There are also Chimonanthus, winter jasmine, Lycoris, silver-bracted taro, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively resistant to sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable as balcony potted plants (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, ficus, bang lan, small-leaf privet, agave, Amaryllis, plum yew, oak, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, water poplar, black pine, prickly juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, holly, wintergreen, Vitex, weeping euonymus, longevity peach, sun plant, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Milan, Aspidistra, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera, spring feather, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, five-color pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus fern or Clivia seeds have been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches around 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony to grow.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum anguliger, Epiphyllum, jade plant, jewel flower, Echeveria, portulacaria, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and at a relatively bright spot by an indoor windowsill, propagate by cuttings gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles, nandina, Daphne, Ardisia, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, brocade pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out; otherwise it is not easy to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as insulation and cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into sheds for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus, holly, wintergreen, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus, trident maple, Ulmus parvifolia, plum yew, water poplar, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chimonanthus, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry cut surfaces on stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated with cement and rebar) placed on top, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively like air humidity on it, such as orchid types, Monstera, green giant, little angel, Ardisia, nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the culture soil for repotting and have enough various fertilizers and pesticides ready to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics in April: As the cold air forces moving south from the north weaken, the warm, moist air currents from the south become increasingly strong, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming (Tomb-Sweeping Day), although occasional southward cold air may still have an impact, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and the Yellow River does the danger of snow and frost remain. After Guyu (Grain Rain), late frost has ended in areas south of the Huai and Yangtze rivers, the minimum temperature does not fall below 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; in areas north of the Huai River, however, potted flowers cannot be brought out of the house until late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-care activities include the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, Joseph's coat, moss rose, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, roundleaf cypress vine, flowering tobacco, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, nirvana grass, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, fairy primrose, nasturtium, summer cypress, mapleleaf hibiscus, Mexican fire plant, basil, asparagus, cosmos, ladybell, sensitive plant, etc. Magnoliaceae ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Yulan magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, Baohua magnolia, southern magnolia, Tianmu magnolia, Wudang magnolia, officinal magnolia, Oyama magnolia, mountain magnolia, Michelia, manglietia, red-flowered manglietia, Ruyuan manglietia, big-fruited manglietia, champaca, banana shrub, multiflower banana shrub, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white orchid, golden-leaved Michelia, Emei Michelia, Chinese tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, etc.; other landscaping trees and shrubs that can be sown in April

include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, Chinese yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, ormosia, wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, white plum, Chinese wolfberry, heavenly bamboo, coralberry, windmill palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvest in April include: African daisy, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among them, Japanese fatsia fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft can be picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedbeds, or first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have germinated, promptly remove the covering grass and build a shade frame; for cultivating nipplefruit, peel off the skin of the harvested golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak them in warm water for 24 hours, and sow in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and reach a plant height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either for pot cultivation to enjoy the fruits or for field planting as special cut-flower material.

   2. Grafting

Ornamental trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered bristly locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, lady palm, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, calathea, aloe, peperomia, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. [Note: the source text here contains garbled characters; the following list appears to continue with additional species:] banana shrub, five-color plum, red-stemmed ivy, cactus, lotus, etc.; [additional garbled text cannot be reliably rendered]. In addition, lotus and water lily can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most easy-to-root ornamental trees and shrubs, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cuttings can be taken in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, heavenly bamboo, cypress, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, Chinese tulip tree, bridal wreath, paper bush, and flowering quince.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and roots are not severely cut back during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be noted: for deciduous ornamental trees, if shoots have grown too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must never be repotted after leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor ornamental trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen ornamental trees such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, banana shrub, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous ornamental trees, it is best to transplant before leaves unfold, such as Yulan magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting ornamental trees should be no less than 6 times the trunk diameter of the transplanted tree, so that the tree can be transplanted without worry under the condition of not damaging the soil ball.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. Ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, green cypress, June snow, water willow, true cypress, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flower cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paper bush, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red-bark cleyera, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, galo wood, golden bullet, weeping crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, holly, golden larch, tiger thorn, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal or non-metal wire to continuously coil, guide, and correct them so they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, timely bud removal; when winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones; when needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the base of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, ensuring that newly grown needles are short and clustered so the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, apply supplementary fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, white orchid, supplementary fertilizer should likewise be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For field-planted Yulan magnolia, purple magnolia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, fertilizer should also be applied promptly to meet their vegetative growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid them into a braid using an odd number of 3, 5, or 7 trunks. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, being spread out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival or subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime-sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-Watching Potted Plants

For potted fruit-watching ornamental plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Japanese aucuba, weeping crabapple, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so they can set fruit normally; do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly taken cuttings of ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, they must be sprayed with water (mist) 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Handbook: Summer

Flower Planting Handbook (May)

Weather characteristics in May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rains end around Xiaoman (Grain Full), the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing and caring for flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and ornamental trees that can be sown immediately after harvest in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, loquat, etc. Sowing and raising seedlings in May should pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry; second, cover the seedbed with grass to retain moisture, preventing rapid fluctuations in seedbed moisture that could cause seeds to "revert"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly build a shade frame to avoid scorching young seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its ripe blue-black fruits picked at the end of May; mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Sow only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, do not cover with soil too deeply; generally no more than 2 to 3 cm is appropriate.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, Peacock grass, Dragon Mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonias, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, hairy jasmine, jasmine, bead orchid, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, kylin leaf, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, Oyama magnolia, Xinyi, flowering quince, umbrella plant, five-color plum, red-back croton, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, ti plant, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha-belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate white orchid and banana shrub; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, straw-cloak maple, etc.; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy azalea cuttings to cleft-graft Western azaleas; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting superior Chinese rose varieties; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock; softwood-graft superior wintersweet varieties, or use potted rootstocks for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-ribbed arrow can be used as rootstocks for grafting Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Ornamental trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Milan, Western azalea, camellia, croton, banana shrub, red maple, etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on schedule by late September to early October, creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, summer cypress, marigold, Dragon Mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonias, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, transplanting Yulan magnolia after flowering and just before budding and leafing out gives the highest survival rate. Some ornamental trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually need more water. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, first pour tap water into a pool or small tank, then add an appropriate amount of acidifying substance to increase water acidity, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, arrowhead plant, calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-watching plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, coralberry, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. When pruning white orchid after it is brought out of the house, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose, and cut surfaces easily lose water and dry out, extending downward. For this reason, make the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained; never cut too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after-flowering pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For potted wintersweet, attention must also be paid to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud, otherwise the wound may dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: Swiss cheese plant, lady palm, calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink dai leaf, fountain palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for sun-loving ornamental trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, sparrow plum, trident maple, water willow, oak, June snow, black pine, cotton pine, etc., require full light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red-bark cleyera, green cypress, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, Milan, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., remove faded flowers and stems after flowering respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as supplement, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth while laying a foundation for producing flower buds again. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast-iron plant, ferns, etc., apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, five-color bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, pink dai leaf, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as foliar fertilizer to make leaf color more brilliant and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot; for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc.??? citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, June snow, green cypress, water willow, galo wood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and branch structure, otherwise normal growth of the plant will be affected.

Flower Planting Handbook (June)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Huai and Yangtze River basins enter the plum rain season. This year plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rain in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers and most bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which can disrupt styling or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, sago palm, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, extract the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and then sow in furrows; cover with soil generally 2 cm to 3 cm thick, add rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly build a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in ornamental plant branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of ornamental trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, banana shrub, holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, June snow, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Caragana sinica, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Sarcandra glabra, five-color plum, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, heavenly bamboo, trumpet creeper, red-back croton, honeysuckle, hibiscus, ti plant, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia crenata, paper bush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela florida, weigela, Spiraea thunbergii, Pedilanthus tithymaloides, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, bridal wreath, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, ground ivy, nasturtium, Viola tricolor, Camellia sinensis, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonias, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, Tagetes patula, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant and row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted wintersweet seedling rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and Yulan magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, banana shrub, etc. For bud grafting, use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate flat peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Prunus japonica, plum blossom, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate red maple, Acer palmatum dissectum, Acer palmatum atropurpureum, etc. For branch grafting, use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock to graft camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Ornamental trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Viburnum macrocephalum, weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Milan, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, acorus, golden-edge mondo grass, etc.

II. Collecting Seeds and Transplanting

    1. Collecting Seeds

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after harvest), etc.

    Ornamental tree seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, without affecting germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before field sowing. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit coat removed, be washed clean, stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo, and sown in a selected nursery when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    In June, quite a number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, marigold, Tagetes patula, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, Antirrhinum majus, summer cypress, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

In summer, large ornamental trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not out of the question, precisely as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, keeping irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent; if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying; during weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray based on the dryness or moisture of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones include: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist. Deeply dormant species include: cyclamen, lycoris (species), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc. Under high temperatures they show aboveground stem and leaf withering and underground nutrient fibrous root death, surviving the summer as dormant underground stems or tubers in the soil. For these, watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should simply be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the pots on their sides, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, arrowhead plant, calathea, Boston fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, cast-iron plant, Spathiphyllum, red (green) gem, Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back croton, lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Milan, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, azalea, Osmanthus fragrans, five-color plum, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia cooperi, Senecio articulatus, Sedum morganianum, Delosperma, Stapelia, sedums, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, water willow, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, trident maple, Fontanesia fortunei, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, so the plant maintains clear layers and a good appearance, and can be encouraged to produce more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Milan, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Chinese rose, promptly remove faded flowers and stems, and appropriately cut back branches that have flowered to encourage lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again. For ornamental trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch off terminal buds on excessively vigorous branches to suppress growth of main and side shoots and encourage side buds to sprout.

    4. Shading

    In June, for ornamental trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as: hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead plant, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, radiator plant, Spathiphyllum, red (green) gem, Dieffenbachia, Anthurium, fountain palm, Daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Sun-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, June snow, sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia thea, holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, Pinus thunbergii, white orchid, Milan, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; Buddhist pine, Damnacanthus indicus, heavenly bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, Nageia nagi, etc. can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage by wood-boring longhorn beetles; promptly use poisoned sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season; spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage; select suitable pesticides early and spray to kill.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection; spray fungicides such as carbendazim early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail larvae; spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and acclimated in early spring or field-grown. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Pinus armandii, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, June snow, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, Sabina chinensis, ginkgo, Fontanesia fortunei, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow bending; never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Mangzhong (Grain in Ear); June 21, Xiazhi (Summer Solstice).

Flower Planting Handbook (July)

Weather characteristics in July: On July 7, the Huai and Yangtze River region ends the plum rain season. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Huai and Yangtze rivers it is 28°C; only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower-care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, bellflower, etc. When sowing, pay attention to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, mao peach, mountain peach, Prunus triloba, etc. can also be collected. After washing off the flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the cleaned stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring, without affecting germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria barbata, begonias, coleus, clearweed, scarlet sage, marigold, Tagetes patula, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch chrysanthemum, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Kalanchoe, Polygonum chinense, air plant, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back croton, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Weigela florida, hydrangea, weigela, Spiraea thunbergii, bridal wreath, Daphne, gardenia, paper bush, Oyama magnolia, bougainvillea, Milan, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, ti plant, hibiscus, June snow, banana shrub, coral tree, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum sargentii, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some ornamental trees can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, etc. To propagate ornamental trees by water cuttings, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforate it, and use it as fixing material for cuttings; second, keep the cutting water clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach or mao peach can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Prunus persica densa, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, Prunus triloba, purple-leaf plum, Prunus mume, etc.; use cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora, and "" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and Yulan magnolia seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate white orchid, banana shrub, etc.; use potted 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using softwood side grafting with bag moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling rootstock of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Malus halliana, or crabapple for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use chicken-claw maple seedlings as rootstock for bag grafting to propagate red maple, Acer palmatum dissectum, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Ornamental trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: Milan (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, weigela, Caragana sinica, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plants that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Acorus species, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Aspidistra, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snakehead chrysanthemum (Coreopsis tinctoria), sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.
    Woody plant seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up the flower bedding plants to be displayed during National Day. The flower bedding plants transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from seed or cuttings; after 3 months of careful cultivation, they will bloom just in time for National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be transferred to normal management. Do not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red oxalis, Pelargonium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, Begonia species, Sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia cymbiformis, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the pot soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, bleeding heart, etc., in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should be kept from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Dieffenbachia, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but leaf spraying should also be given appropriately, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and no carelessness is allowed. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, or even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. It is best to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the pot soil is slightly dry, loosen the soil once more to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is species with particularly long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; the third is species grown in winter for flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. For the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    Flower bedding plants for which fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp flower (Justicia brandegeeana), Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, snapdragon, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, Begonia species,Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, etc. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. In particular, for succulent ornamental plants, such as Sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia variegata, etc., fertilization must be stopped to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adinandra millettii, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood, wintersweet, firethorn, Podocarpus macrophyllus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means cutting off part of the new shoots with scissors to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with fingers, such as juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis.
For potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., their spent flowers and faded stems should be removed promptly, and the flowering branches should be shortened as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Begonia, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from blazing sunlight. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Monstera deliciosa, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, Peperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus densiflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand, which can reduce evaporation from the pot soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
For air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Malvaviscus arboreus, fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera arboricola, Aspidistra, Aucuba, etc. It is not advisable to choose sword fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent direct wind from striking the plants and causing leaf tips to wither and margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of plum, peach, Begonia, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, flowering almond, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller moth that damages boxwood, Japanese boxwood, Buxus sinica, and pearl boxwood. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that damages privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum acutissimum, and Chinese ash, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging large-leaf boxwood, London plane, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of the nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a vigorous growth period, branch injuries are prone to infection by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and styling. Plants that can still be styled are some species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thuja standishii, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxwood, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant styling should be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually. Do not operate hastily or use excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to break the branches and trunk of the plant and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7, Minor Heat; July 23, Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    In August, the temperature is high, light is strong, and humidity is low. It is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron (Yucca elephantipes), Croton, Brazil wood, palm bamboo, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, plumeria, Osmanthus fragrans, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia, snapdragon, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema commutatum, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, summersweet clethra, American summersweet clethra, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored for germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranates are harvested after they mature and split; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, fan columbine, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Use a mixed medium of de-alkalinized rice husk ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flower species: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Galium odoratum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the medium, cuttings can be taken of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, spiraea, snow spray, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower trees can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use the current-year seedlings of peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry plum, flowering almond, etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or approach-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, fragrant solomonseal, Aspidistra, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Aglaonema, Dutch aster, fine-leaf Acorus, sword fern, Aglaonema commutatum, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting to achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-heart (edged) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, banana shrub, juniper balls, Sabina chinensis balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon, etc., which can be expected to bloom in September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flower trees that continue flowering for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be moderately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, marigold, etc., topping and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are tied with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, Croton, red mulberry, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue flowering, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, flower pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., as well as species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, privet, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, summersweet clethra, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, etc., water droplets falling on the leaves do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette must not be drenched with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and fill the leaf tank with water to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the pot soil to harden. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, maintaining only slight moisture in the pot soil, and by spraying the small environment around the flower pot, create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, phoenix palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazil wood, Dutch iron (Yucca elephantipes), Pachira aquatica, sword fern, lu dou tree, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba, Chamaedorea elegans, Croton, Fatsia japonica, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flower pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, do not let fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilization, promptly spray the leaves once with water to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, purple triangular oxalis, cactus species, ball cacti, etc., stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Dieffenbachia, Peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo fern, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, blood leaf orchid, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Begonia species, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), etc., continue to provide shade frames. Pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, boxwood, etc. For Chinese rose, flower pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten the branches after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some ornamental potted plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flower pomegranate, boxwood, Oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, some flower trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, king coconut, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, palm bamboo, Pachira aquatica, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Brazil wood, Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting medium can be rice husk ash and fine sand mixed in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, begonia, gardenia, shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema commutatum, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, banana shrub, etc. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, plumeria, Pelargonium, Aglaonema, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm thick wet sand, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe summering. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved indoors with air conditioning, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, boxwood, trident maple, black pine, Pinus densiflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilization for balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flower trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, boxwood, etc., after each pruning, apply one thin fertilizer.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flower trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxwood, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, faded stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and they should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flower trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Manual (September Volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of our country gradually declines, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron (Yucca elephantipes), Croton, Brazil wood, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, palm bamboo, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera arboricola, fu wood (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, lu dou tree, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summersweet clethra, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summersweet clethra seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summersweet clethra, which can be stored dry until spring sowing, the other species must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, carnation, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting medium, woody flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema strictum, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera arboricola, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snow spray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower trees can be propagated by grafting: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use peach, apricot, etc. seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-covered moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia laciniata, snake plant, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema commutatum, sword fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, silver-striped lilyturf, Aspidistra, large-leaf Liriope, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Mediterranean bellflower, etc. can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flower trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided that soil balls are well retained. Species such as: oleander, juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, spraying, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning in the growing season for ball-shaped plants in northern regions this year. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species that should be pruned are: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants that should be pruned include: juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be topped and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue flowering for a long time, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flower pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately shorten the flowering branches, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job in watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, Croton, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flower trees that continue flowering continuously or are viewed for flowers and fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin, flower pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that damages crape myrtle, firethorn, Begonia, and other flower trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that damages crape myrtle, papaya, and Begonia, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, Begonia species, redbud, pearl bush, yew, shiny-leaf wintersweet, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, and Begonia species, after treatment the seeds must all be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is strong, the temperature is high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in the second half of the month, reduce to watering once, with appropriate spraying of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil around the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so fertilization management should be given great attention this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or those whose peak flowering period is autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans blooming in all seasons, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc.; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, papaya, golden bullet tree, Callicarpa species, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and for colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, etc., top-dress with fertilizer types balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., which are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., top-dress with low-concentration fertilizers with balanced nutrients; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, miniature sunflower, etc., top-dress with a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for budding and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is high and the sunlight is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, Dieffenbachia picta, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, little angel, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris cretica 'Albolineata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia seguine, green giant, Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Cephalanthus occidentalis, king palm, Dracaena sanderiana, etc., give 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., give full sunlight; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, etc., give appropriate shading around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be properly shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum quihoui, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Fraxinus hupehensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, longevity peach, Bitao peach, etc., insert poison sticks to block and kill them, or control them by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowering trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, fruit-viewing pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus hupehensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cuttings-propagate some ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans blooming in all seasons, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum, etc. You can also water-propagate Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc., indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, little angel, Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and normally sprayed with water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, spray more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, spray at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, you can continue to water once a day and spray 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and be careful that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue top-dressing with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The types of fertilizer used for top-dressing flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, you can continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is not large, you can move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, you can continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, and spent flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage; use 25% Torque wettable powder 1500 times solution for spraying and killing; for the double-striped spruce longhorn beetle appearing on Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis, and Juniperus rigida bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, papaya, longevity peach, etc., you can continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for the various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Cycas revoluta (South American), Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena concinna, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia argentea, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Ligustrum japonicum, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium ascendens, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours first. For the above seeds, except that Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds can be dry-stored until sowing the next spring, all other species can have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until the next spring when the seeds crack and show white, then sow. Note that before storage for germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris species, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans blooming in all seasons, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowering trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Odontonema strictum, cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osakazuki') and Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera'; use peony roots as rootstock to graft fine varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; use one-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', etc.; use one-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft fine varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use Hylocereus undatus as rootstock to graft various cactus ball types; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Bayuegui', snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Ligustrum japonicum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green emperor, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum vittatum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, pomegranate, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Bitao peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans blooming in all seasons, Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, prune back before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and completeness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Juniperus chinensis, Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia species, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to encourage the lateral shoots to continue producing flowers and blooming, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees newly planted this year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation; second, continue to spray the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For autumn herbaceous flowers ground-planted in the courtyard, top-dress with quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus fragrans that have already flowered, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and southern Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, golden bullet tree, etc., which are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Cerasus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo 'Aurea', Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Ligustrum japonicum, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, papaya, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and plant them separately next spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, green giant, red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., increase the amount of watering. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and spray more water to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them overwinter safely. The best watering times are 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly top-dress with low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Narcissus poeticus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue top-dressing with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately top-dress with some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, golden bullet tree, etc., in early to mid-October, apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia picta, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Peperomia species, etc., during the 2 to 3 hours around noon, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and fallen leaves, diseased and pest branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out strong pruning back; for binding materials that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-protected, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of cold waves moving south.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leafminer larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus hupehensis, Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Buxus sinica, pomegranate, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus pandurata, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. For some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, they can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, Oncidium species, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and at other times can be placed on the balcony, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cuttings-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum, Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves; for species that have already developed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time spray the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, little angel, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should focus on spraying and supplement with watering, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, golden bean, lemon, Nandina domestica, golden bullet tree, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., in early October, top-dress with 1 to 2 times of dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, you can continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, during the 3 to 4 hours around noon on fine days, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further binding and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plants. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata (Ardisia crenata), Trachycarpus fortunei, Ligustrum japonicum, Photinia species, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth, and other easy-to-root varieties), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata', etc. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system by next spring and can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, you can also propagate by cuttings Begonia maculata, Begonia species, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., which can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, you can also cut branches of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, grape, etc., for storage, and carry out cuttings next spring, which can noticeably speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Prunus mume (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, and use branches of fine rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of fine rose varieties.

    4. Layering. The main flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', pomegranate, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Cupressus funebris, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena sacchariflora, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum grandiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, you can dig up the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna generalis, and Canna generalis, store them in sand until next spring in March, then cut and plant them separately for final planting.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Abutilon species, etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus hwangshanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia species, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and final planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be used for flowerbed final planting and flower border arrangement transplanting in November include: Silene pendula, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately pruned back or cut short, and most leaves removed, and the trunk tied well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), only then can their survival be ensured; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut short and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk tied well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened before they can survive. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent large amounts of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic greenhouses for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc., should be moved into plastic greenhouses to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic greenhouses, or rooms, the specific standard for the amount of watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is high, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary leaf spraying.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also must frequently spray the plants, to facilitate the expansion and growth of the plants' flower buds, and also to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses, and rooms, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently spray the leaves, so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, increase the amount of watering. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia picta, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, silver queen, etc., control the amount of watering to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions caused by water temperature being too low, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors with a temperature above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, colorful Bromeliaceae, etc., continue top-dressing with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in ordinary plastic greenhouses, stop top-dressing to facilitate their normal dormant overwintering. For most ground-planted flowering trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia figo 'Aurea', Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, grape, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Cerasus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., bury dry cake fertilizer, with each plant using 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg, smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped shapes that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, strongly prune back the current-year branches, except for retaining a few coarse branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to facilitate the growth of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees on flowerbeds, roadside edges, and courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Cerasus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all those disorderly branches, weak branches, inner canopy branches, diseased and pest branches, etc., and appropriately prune back leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, coarse palm trees can be stripped of palm fiber, and the trunk cleaned well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema species, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as a room temperature of not lower than about 5°C is maintained.

For potted flowering plants that are not cold-tolerant, such as arrowroot (Maranta), Calathea, Syngonium, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Croton, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Cymbidium, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or they can be protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those bonsai or potted flowering trees that are relatively cold-tolerant, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxwood, Japanese apricot, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, trident maple, and red maple, they can be directly buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather is encountered, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a prolonged period, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude into the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let cold wind blow directly on the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapple species, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead trunk and split trunk areas for anti-corrosion treatment, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stumps.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. that appear on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (which may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first, wipe them off with a damp cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids that appear on potted plants placed indoors (which may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, and Chinese roses), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizer; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November are: Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, soft cypress, prostrate juniper, Euonymus pendulus, serissa, plum blossom, wintersweet, oak, horned holly, holly, boxwood, pearl boxwood, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been bound and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deeper constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-suspended and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them only after they sprout branches the following year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, stumps that have basically taken form can be replanted in November into suitable pots according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, and matched with fist stones and dotted with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Chaenomeles, etc., can be planted in suitable pots in November, with enhanced water management, and can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects of work: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and frost protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, doing a good job of pruning, cleaning, and turning and fertilizing the soil for open-field flowers and trees; third, doing a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by cuttings in the open field in December include: plum blossom (mainly varieties such as Gongfen and Lüe); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea, and boxwood species. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken from hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, gem flower, echeveria, portulacaria, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, begonia, cane begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera, daphne, pothos, and cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken from gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triarrhena. In addition, branches of trumpet creeper, lilac, and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum varieties, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in seedbeds at a certain row spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful not to let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation, and remove the plastic film only after the scion sprouts the following spring. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; or use vigorous branch sections of the Elizabeth rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted Elizabeth scion sections into a loose seedbed. The grafted parts can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film for moisture and heat preservation, remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts the following spring, and only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture preservation.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia, Chaenomeles, purple magnolia, snowball, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red oxalis, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, and Aglaonema. When cutting off daughter plants from the base of large variegated pineapple plants for division, they must be small plants that have grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the daughter plants cut off are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles, palm bamboo, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo fern, and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, Tagetes patula, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly species, and camphor tree, Photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous landscaping trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron, and holly. When transplanting, first heavily shorten the main tip and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, bring a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped daffodils, etc., continue to be placed in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering frost damage, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, palm bamboo, nandina, Michelia, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo fern, Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures no lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, tiny coconut, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures no lower than 10°C, such as Croton, Caladium, pepperomia, arrowroot, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, pineapple species, Calathea, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, clerodendrum, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in double-layer tunnels with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature warms up.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, red cedar, water willow, horned holly, and Fraxinus chinensis, under conditions no lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; if particularly cold weather is encountered, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining the indoor temperature suitable for them, should also be ventilated and aired. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the pot soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is low and too much water is given, it can easily cause root rot in plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European daffodil, and fruit ornamental plants such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season mandarin, golden bean, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to facilitate the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vividness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying should also be given, always keeping the leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, Syngonium, arrowroot, Croton, and silver queen, when the room temperature is close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering to ensure they can safely overwinter.

    The watering time in December is best during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by too low water temperature.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most landscaping trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet creeper, banksia rose, hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress species, dragon-claw pagoda tree, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, while turning the garden soil in December, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cow manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, pineapple species, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue topdressing with 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum quihoui, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped plants include horned holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees that were not pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning. After pruning is completed, bury and apply fertilizer around the root system.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, horned holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species prone to scale insects among flowers and trees in greenhouses and plastic tunnels, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale. At this time, spray and kill with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and phytotoxicity rarely occurs.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and culture soil preparation next year, use the idle winter time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or pools, add water, and seal for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in layers with garden soil, ignite and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing culture soil next year.

    7. Preparing culture soil. Use the idle winter time to find an open space or under tree shade and pile up as much culture soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then fully mix them evenly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing clods. For garden land to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for land for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before plowing; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese cypress, soft cypress, Oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, horned holly, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Chaenomeles, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxwood, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus chinensis, and oak.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped by coiling with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already been in place for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for suspension and traction.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc. that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the pot soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially glued rocks; third, prevent plants planted on rockeries from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying so they can safely overwinter.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, for flower maintenance, the most important thing is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing soil, and preparing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown in open fields outdoors include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (varieties such as Lüe and Gongfen), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triarrhena, hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and jasmine. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem flower, jade leaf, jade tree, echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos, and cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum varieties can be propagated by rootstock grafting using one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, or wild peach as rootstock; after grafting, bury and plant them in seedbeds, cover with plastic film for moisture preservation and cold protection. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-grafting is often used to propagate four-season mandarin and kumquat; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; use the Elizabeth rose variety as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; grafting and cutting propagation are carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film for moisture preservation and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles, Buddhist pine, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, hosta, purple hosta, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, pineapple species, small tulip, Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles, palm bamboo, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species, and Ardisia crenata can be harvested; after treatment, conduct sand stratification for germination, and sow only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check sand-stored seeds, including magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, and holly species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish spraying with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film, straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture preservation.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in relatively cold areas, after potting seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, first place them in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and dragon-claw pagoda tree. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum quihoui, except under special circumstances this month, transplanting should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, after transplanting with heavy shortening pruning and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, azalea, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's thorn, horned holly, holly, and oak, heavy shortening pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, they should be cultivated by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and covered with straw curtains for frost protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for their safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, in a room, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic tunnels no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, palm bamboo, nandina, aucuba, Michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, Acorus calamus, bamboo fern, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic tunnels no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, tiny coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and lantana. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as Croton, Caladium, Syngonium, arrowroot, pineapple species, pepperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, money tree, South American cycad, desert rose, Calathea, poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea, and coral flower. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and stop covering only after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, horned holly, holly, and Fraxinus chinensis, they can be buried together with the flower pots in soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and when particularly cold weather is encountered, plastic film or soft grass can be added for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon when the temperature is highest in the day for ventilation and airing, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air southward movement. If broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, promptly plug and repair them, to avoid potted flowers freezing. When providing coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent smoke damage, etc. from causing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom during the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine can also be placed in plastic tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped daffodils, and freesias already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death of the plants. The watering time is best arranged during the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the pot soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is low, correspondingly reduce watering; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, Syngonium, arrowroot, and Croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature that the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamental plants such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean, and winter coral, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and replenish watering in time for plants whose pot soil has dried, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time. Especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon, to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, schima, machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, elaeocarpus, golden willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan cedar, deodar cedar, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-cupped daffodil, Chaenomeles, hyacinth, tulip, bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and crab claw orchid, continue topdressing with low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped plants that were not pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs that were not pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, and grape; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning and supplemented by binding, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, and Chinese juniper, continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to lay a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, and red-leaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather and burn them centrally, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and photinia, spray and kill with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient: iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, ignite and burn them to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, soil and miscellaneous manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring, for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, ginkgo, boxwood, soft cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, Euonymus pendulus, banyan, and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms; this is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with coir rope or wire, if the tied areas show obvious sunken constriction marks, the original ties should be untied and the training and guiding done anew.

    In January, for some shallow-pot trunk bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for trunk bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could cause the artificially cemented rocks to break apart; also prevent plants grown on small rocks from dying of cold after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly, only then can they be ensured to overwinter safely.