How to Divide and Overwinter Rohdea japonica? A Complete Guide to Care Techniques
When it comes to Rohdea japonica, many people love to grow it, and it looks the same all year round. Let's take a look at how to divide Rohdea japonica and how to overwinter it: How to divide Rohdea japonica: 1. Prepare the potting soil. The potting soil suitable for Rohdea japonica must be loose and breathable.
When it comes to Rohdea japonica, many people love to grow it, and it looks the same all year round. Let's take a look at how to divide Rohdea japonica and how to overwinter it:
How to divide Rohdea japonica:
1. Prepare the potting soil. The potting soil suitable for Rohdea japonica must be loose and breathable. It is recommended to use a potting soil mixed with half fine sand and half leaf mold, which is more conducive to root growth.
2. Prune the roots. In spring and autumn, use a knife to cut off the newly sprouted shoots at the rhizome of Rohdea japonica together with some lateral roots, and coat the cut with plant ash to prevent bacterial infection.
3. Dry the roots. Place Rohdea japonica in a cool, dry place and wait for the cut to dry slightly.
4. Plant in a pot. Plant Rohdea japonica into new potting soil, and be careful not to water it first.
5. Do frequent care. After 1-2 days, water the potting soil until slightly saturated, then water once every 3-4 days. Once Rohdea japonica grows new roots, apply an appropriate amount of special plant fertilizer.
How to overwinter Rohdea japonica:
1. Move it indoors. Winter temperatures are low, especially for those in the north, so Rohdea japonica must be moved indoors to avoid cold wind. When the temperature is below 6°C, the leaves are very easily frostbitten and suffer permanent damage.
2. Increase light exposure: Winter light is weak, so Rohdea japonica should be placed in a sunny spot with sufficient light to strengthen photosynthesis and promote plant growth.
3. Regulate room temperature: The suitable growing temperature for Rohdea japonica is 15-18°C, so it is best if the room has heating, but be careful not to place the plant directly next to the heater, as the leaves can easily lose water.
4. Spray water on the leaves: Although less watering is needed in winter, the leaves of Rohdea japonica are relatively broad. If there is a lack of water, the leaf tips will dry out and the leaves will turn yellow. It is recommended to spray the leaves appropriately with a small spray nozzle to maintain a certain air humidity.
That is all for the introduction to the division and overwintering methods of Rohdea japonica. Rohdea japonica also needs to be kept warm to get through the winter.
Rohdea japonica Rohdea japonica Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Rohdea japonica / How to Propagate Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica ProfileRohdea japonica Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica Growing Methods and Precautions Introduction to Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species in the genus Rohdea. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as yun, qiannian yun, kaifou jian, jiujie lian, dongbudiao, dongbudiao cao, tiebiandan, wumudu, baishacao, zhanshe jian, etc. It is native to southern China and Japan and is a very popular excellent ornamental plant. It has a long history of cultivation in China. Its Chinese name "yun" means "a herbaceous plant that likes warmth."
Morphological Characteristics of Rohdea japonica
The rhizome is 1.5-2.5 cm thick. Leaves are 3-6, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate, or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, acute at the apex, slightly narrowed at the base, green, with longitudinal veins clearly raised; sheath leaves are lanceolate, 5-12 cm long. The scape is shorter than the leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; the spike is 3-4 cm long, 1.2-1.7 cm wide; with dozens of densely arranged flowers; bracts are ovate, membranous, shorter than the flowers, 2.5-6 mm long, 2-4 mm wide; the perianth is 4-5 mm long, 6 mm wide, pale yellow, with thick lobes; anthers are ovate, 1.4-1.5 mm long. The berry is about 8 mm in diameter and red when ripe. The flowering period is May-June, and the fruiting period is September-November.
Produced in Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Guizhou, and Sichuan. It grows in moist places under forests or on grassland, at an altitude of 750-1700 m.
The whole plant has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and dispersing blood stasis and relieving pain. Potted plants are often grown everywhere for ornament.
Perennial evergreen herb, without an aboveground stem. The rhizome is thick and short, yellow-white, with nodes, and many slender fibrous roots grow from the nodes. Leaves grow in clumps from the rhizome, thick, lanceolate or band-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, with margins slightly folded inward, gradually narrowing at the base into a petiole-like form, dark green above, light green below, with multiple straight parallel veins, and the main vein relatively thick. [1] In spring and summer, scapes grow from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers are numerous, clustered at the top in a short spike; the perianth has 6 segments, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, with a pointed tip and broad base, fused at the lower part into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. The berry is spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed.
Variety Classification of Rohdea japonica Dieffenbachia
[Alias] Dumb cane.
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. The stem is stout and mostly fleshy, and the plant height can reach 1 m. The leaves are large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, acuminate at the apex, entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide. Both sides of the leaves are dark green, inlaid with dense, irregular spots, markings, and patches of white, milky white, pale yellow, and other colors. Common horticultural varieties include Dieffenbachia amoena, Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Dieffenbachia 'Summer White', etc.
[Habit] Native to tropical America. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shade or shaded environments. It is not cold-tolerant, avoids direct strong light, and requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring from April to May, cut off the small plants growing from the base of the plant, let the wound dry slightly, or dip the wound in plant ash and insert it into plain sand. Be careful to shade and keep moist. It can take root and be potted in about 1 month.
[Cultivation] For potting, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand, plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the potting soil moist, water more frequently, preferring moist over dry, and at the same time supplement with leaf spraying. In autumn, control water and alternate between dry and moist; in winter, keep the potting soil dry. During the growing period, fertilize generally once a month. Usually prevent direct sunlight and provide shade. Repot once every spring. The overwintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Use] Potted ornamental. Suitable for decorating the living room and study.
Decorative application: Small potted plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium potted plants are suitable for the living room, placed beside the sofa as decoration, and can fill the room with green vitality.
Light: Tolerant of semi-shade, avoid excessively strong sunlight, but too dark light can also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: Likes moisture, and during the growing period from March to August it needs more watering. In summer, it needs frequent sprinkling to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Likes high temperature and is not cold-tolerant. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C. The minimum overwintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing period, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth. From March to August, apply fertilizer solution once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
[Propagation]: Cutting propagation. Can be done in spring and summer. Take 10-15 cm long tender branches and insert them into a yellow sand medium. They will root in 20-30 days. After that, repot into new pots according to plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum
[Brief Introduction] Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. It likes sunlight, is also tolerant of semi-shade, and is cold-tolerant. In summer it fears direct sunlight and likes a moist environment. After heavy frost in winter, the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has a summer dormancy habit, with strong division ability and a high propagation coefficient.
[Propagation] Commonly propagated by bulb division and sowing. For natural bulb division, dig up the bulbs in August-September and plant them graded by size. After one planting, divide the bulbs again after several years when the bulbs become crowded. For sowing propagation, seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
[Cultivation] It grows robustly and tolerates extensive management. Fertilize once every half month, and the soil should be loose, moist, and well-drained. After flowering, remove the residual flower stalks, and it will bloom more abundantly the next year. The storage temperature for bulbs is 25°C, and they need dry and ventilated conditions.
[Pests and Diseases] Diseases include mosaic disease, and the virus is spread by aphids. It can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% derris extract at 800 times dilution.
[Application] Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May, with white, orange, and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers shimmer, elegant and simple. It is an excellent material for arranging natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted ornament.
Aglaonema modestum
Also called Chinese evergreen. Aglaonema modestum is a perennial herb of Araceae, with a plant height of 60-70 cm. The stem is upright and unbranched, with obvious internodes.
Leaves are alternate, with long petioles, the base enlarged into a sheath, and the leaves are green, long lanceolate, or ovate-lanceolate. It blooms in autumn, and the inflorescence is axillary, shorter than the petiole.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, verdant in all four seasons, and especially shade-tolerant. It can be cut to make foliage bonsai or used as a foil in flower arrangements to decorate the environment, and can also be used in pots to accent halls and rooms.
Chinese Rohdea japonica
Chinese Rohdea japonica, famous in both ancient and modern times, is verdant and evergreen throughout the four seasons, and its orange-red fruits remain through winter without withering. It is regarded among the people as a symbol of good fortune and is widely cultivated in both north and south. In the north, potted plants can be placed indoors for viewing all year round.
Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family. Underground it has a short, thick rhizome, and leaves grow in clumps from the top of the rhizome, band-shaped or oblanceolate. The scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike, small white densely arranged flowers, and spherical orange-red berries. The flowering period is June to July, and potted plants in the north rarely bear fruit, so they are mainly grown for foliage.
The genus Rohdea is native to China, with only this one species. Varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, Dieffenbachia, as well as large-leaved, fine-leaved, and dwarf varieties. Also commonly cultivated is Aglaonema modestum, also known as bamboo-jointed Rohdea japonica, a perennial herbaceous flower of Araceae, from South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia. It shares the same name as Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens: Gold, Silver, Jade, and Beauty. The leaves are inlaid like gold and jade, brilliantly variegated, and all are among the outstanding indoor ornamental foliage flowers today.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum are potted plants and require a culture soil rich in humus, loose, fertile, and slightly acidic. They like high temperature and high humidity, are not tolerant of severe cold, and overwintering must not be below 5°C. They like shade and avoid direct strong light. In winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded, avoiding rain soaking. Chinese Rohdea japonica is mainly propagated by division. Aglaonema modestum is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Aglaonema modestum can also have 8 cm long stem sections soaked in clean water until roots emerge and then be planted, or grown in water in glass containers to enjoy the leaves and roots, remaining unfaded for a long time. If you want the leaf color to be deep green, apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate once or twice in spring and autumn.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum should have their pots turned and soil changed once every two to three years in early spring. After repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded place, and frequently spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, they can be placed outdoors under a shade shed after mid-May, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a place with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Rhoeo discolor
Rhoeo discolor Alias: oyster plant, purple Rhoeo, purple brocade orchid, Commelinaceae
The genus Rhoeo discolor is native to Mexico and the West Indies
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. The leaves are lanceolate, green on the upper side with stripes of varying shades, and purple-red on the underside, also with stripes of varying shades of purple-red (see figure). The stems and leaves are somewhat succulent. The flowering period is August-October, and it easily sets seed. The small flowers are white. Because the flowers grow inside two purple-red large bracts shaped like mussel shells, resembling a mussel shell spitting out a pearl, it is also called "mussel flower."
Its leaves have different colors on each side, verdant and varied, with a moderate plant shape and graceful posture. The red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers, with obvious color contrast, strange and interesting, presenting the scene of a mussel shell spitting out pearls, which is very rare and never tires the eye.
Rhoeo discolor likes semi-shade and humid environments, prefers fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to the sun, and is afraid of cold. Growth stops at 10°C, so overwintering above 10°C is best.
It has good shade tolerance and also a strong ability to adapt to dry climates, so it has become an excellent indoor foliage plant in both northern and southern China. It can be placed for a long time in a bright living room. If the room is darker, it is best to replace it about every 20 days.
Its propagation is mainly by sowing. The tiny seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected, and seedlings emerge in half a month. When the seedlings are 3-5 cm tall, they can be transplanted. It can also be propagated by cuttings in spring and autumn. Cut off the leafy top part and insert it into sandy soil, place it in a shady place, do not overwater, and it will root in about 20 days. When new leaves grow, shift to normal management. The remaining old stems can still send out new shoots again.
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is also called giant dumb cane and dumb sugarcane. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of Araceae, with a cylindrical, fleshy stem often marked with white rings, which are traces left after the leaves fall. The leaves of Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' are long elliptic, and on both sides of the green main vein the leaf surface is scattered with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes, appearing especially beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'.
Native to Colombia, it likes hot and humid conditions. The growing temperature should be controlled at 25°C to 30°C, and the winter room temperature should be kept at 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is suitable for indoor cultivation. When cultivating, a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that moisture can continuously pass through the small holes in the pot bottom to maintain the humidity of the potting soil.
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
There are also other varieties such as large-leaved, fine-leaved, dwarf, and those with yellow-white markings, with more in Japan and Taiwan, China.
Distribution Range of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China, and Southwest China. The main producing areas include Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, and other places.
Ecological Habits of Rohdea japonica
It likes to grow in moist places under forests or in grassland.
It likes semi-shade, warm, humid, and well-ventilated environments. It is not drought-tolerant and is slightly cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can be cultivated in ordinary garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in [2] humus, loose, and with good water permeability.
Propagation Methods of Rohdea japonica
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.
The berries of Rohdea japonica mature in December. After maturity, they can be sown immediately as collected into potting soil mixed with half fine sand and half leaf mold. Cover the pot with glass or tie on plastic film to maintain the potting soil's moisture, temperature, and light. If the temperature is controlled at 20°C, they can germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted.
(1) Division method: Division method: The underground stem of Rohdea japonica has strong sprouting ability. In spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off the newly sprouted shoots at the rhizome together with some lateral roots, coat the wound with plant ash, plant into a pot, water slightly, place in a shady place, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. Alternatively, the whole plant can be taken out of the pot, and depending on the plant size, cut it into several parts with a sharp tool. After the wound dries for a day or is coated with plant ash, pot it and manage as above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally carried out from March to April. Sow in a flowerpot filled with culture soil, water, and temporarily place in a shaded place, keeping it moist. Under conditions of 25-30°C, it can germinate in about 25 days.
Cultivation Techniques of Rohdea japonica Cultivation Management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the culture soil. The soil pH for Rohdea japonica is 6-6.5, which can fully utilize soil nutrients and effectively promote flowering and fruiting. Change the pot regularly once a year. When changing the pot, remove rotten dead leaves and rhizomes, and use acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the cultivation soil. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days to restore vitality.
Cultivation method of Rohdea japonica: Keep it warm, humid, and semi-shaded. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded place to avoid strong light, otherwise it is easy to cause dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being taken outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded balcony. Rohdea japonica is a fleshy-root plant, and waterlogging can easily cause damage, and too much watering can easily cause root rot. But the air must remain humid; if the air is dry, leaf tip drying and other undesirable phenomena are also likely to occur. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to prevent heavy rain from pouring on it, especially during the flowering period it must not be rained on, and it should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated place protected from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply Rohdea japonica liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing. This can promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting (around the Beginning of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of mature plants should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new buds, new leaves, and the emergence of scapes).
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors for overwintering, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it can easily cause leggy leaves and consume large amounts of nutrients, leading to weak growth the next year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If yellowed and scorched leaf tips appear in winter, or even the whole plant withers, it is mainly caused by the roots being unable to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter the air should also be kept humid and the potting soil slightly moist. Generally, watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, the leaves should be sprayed and washed once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and verdant throughout the four seasons.
Cultivation Key Points
The planting environment should remain warm, humid, and semi-shaded. In summer, it is best to place it indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded place to avoid direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to sufficient watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Pay attention to water control. After bringing it indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it can easily cause the plant to suffer cold, drop leaves, and die.
Precautions
1. Planting: Plant in spring or repot and change soil. It has no strict requirements for soil, but fears waterlogging, and when planted in the ground or in pots it avoids hard clay and alkaline soil. For potting, generally use a mixture of leaf mold and sand. In the south it can be potted or grown in the open ground, while in the north it needs greenhouse cultivation. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and supplement with new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: Rohdea japonica likes a semi-shaded environment and fears direct sunlight in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, shade should be 60% or more in spring, summer, and autumn, and 40% in winter. Too strong light easily causes sunburn, while too weak light makes it difficult to flower and fruit. The suitable growing temperature is 15-18°C. In winter dormancy, bring it into the greenhouse and place it in a sunny place, keeping the temperature above 10°C, and the minimum temperature must not be lower than 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin it can overwinter in the open ground. Although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the next year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature, and supply sufficient water, frequently maintaining the moisture of the potting soil and the air humidity of the surrounding environment. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: In order to maintain a good plant shape and improve ornamental value, as the plant grows, yellow leaves, residual leaves, and some old leaves at the lower part of the plant should be pruned in time. When growing in home pots, you can use a soft cloth dipped in beer to wipe the leaves, which can both remove dust and add nutrients to the leaves, making them bright green and clean.
Cultivation of Ornithogalum caudatum
Depending on the growth cycle or plant morphology, the distribution varies, and cultivation methods also differ somewhat. Bulbous bulbs grow on or in the ground, ovate or spherical; the leaves are thick and fleshy, evergreen, alternately arranged on both sides from the base, with a beautiful sheen on the surface, shaped like a tongue; flowers are borne singly, with small pedicels, and numerous stamens with yellow anthers at the tips. Because Japanese people think it closely resembles the brush used by ancient Japanese ladies to brush away excess white powder from their eyebrows, it is called eyebrow brush hair. The spherical red berries and seeds resemble those of Clivia, and are fleshy.
Ornithogalum caudatum is strong in both heat tolerance and cold tolerance, with a minimum of about 5°C, but evergreen varieties are best kept above 8°C so that the leaves retain beautiful ornamental value. It is robust in constitution and free of pests and diseases, but attention should be paid to damage by spider mites. If any are seen, a small amount of insecticide can be sprayed.
Cultivation is quite easy. It avoids direct strong light. In summer it should be placed in a ventilated, half-day-shade place for cultivation. It can be placed indoors, but attention must be paid to sufficient light to prevent leggy leaves and affect growth. It has good drought tolerance and avoids high humidity. If the soil is too wet, it easily causes the bulb to rot. During the growing period, water thoroughly after the surface soil dries. Once a month, apply Hyponex No. 2 or diluted Hyponex solution as water. However, as the dormancy period approaches, gradually reduce the frequency and amount of watering. During dormancy, watering can be stopped, but evergreen varieties can still be given a little water during dormancy to maintain the verdant leaves.
Repotting can be done at the end of the dormancy period or the early part of the growing period. Summer-dormant types can be repotted around July, and winter-dormant types around April. Use well-drained soil, and a mixture of small-grain akadama soil and Dae-pot culture soil can be used. When planting, let about half of the bulb be exposed above the soil surface, planting it shallowly in the pot.
Generally, it can be propagated by dividing bulbs or sowing. The bulbs can be divided about once every 3-5 years, which is a fairly simple and easy method. It can also be propagated by sowing the mature fleshy seeds from the spherical berries after the flowers fade. However, the germination rate of the seeds decreases as storage time lengthens, and they do not store well, so they should be sown as soon as possible. Ornithogalum caudatum takes at least 3-4 years from seed germination to blooming. What a long wait!
Ornithogalum caudatum is easy to cultivate and robust in constitution. Usually its fresh green leaves can be enjoyed as a foliage plant, and when it blooms you can also appreciate its peculiar flowers. It is quite suitable for beginners growing succulents to cultivate.
Care Knowledge Aglaonema modestum
An evergreen herbaceous plant of Araceae, Aglaonema, also known as Chinese evergreen. The stem is upright, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. The leaves are ovate to ovate-lanceolate, obtuse at the base, acuminate at the apex. The inflorescence emerges from the lower sheath, and the spathe is small and green.
Produced in Southwest and South China, and also distributed from India to Malaysia. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. For potting, loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best. It is not cold-tolerant, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C to 8°C. The leaves need frequent spraying, and the potting soil should be kept moist regularly. It is mainly propagated by cuttings, which root very easily at 25°C, and can also be propagated by division.
Aglaonema modestum is very adaptable to indoor environments. It can be potted or placed in a vase, and can continue to grow without withering for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema 'Java', with a short stem, branching at the base, ovate leaves, white spots, and white veins. Aglaonema 'Pictum', shrub-like, with irregular bright green or gray-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema 'Yellow Spot', with a white stem, green lines, and branches. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is green-white. These three Aglaonema varieties are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable overwintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves of Dieffenbachia have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright coloration, and are green throughout the four seasons.
[Water]: Likes moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid waterlogging, and frequently spray the leaves. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it get rained on during the flowering period.
[Fertilizer]: It has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting, and generally no additional fertilizing is needed.
[Soil]: Highly adaptable, but loose, breathable, slightly acidic loam is most suitable.
[Temperature]: In northern regions, it needs indoor overwintering in winter, while in Jiangnan it can overwinter in the open ground. Above 5°C, frost damage will not occur.
[Light]: Likes semi-shade and avoids exposure to the sun. Indoors, it should be placed in a ventilated place with indirect light.
[Propagation]: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sprouting shoots and plant them together with the roots, which makes survival easy. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be carried out together with repotting. Generally repot once a year, divide the clumping plant into several clumps and cultivate them separately, and divide once every 3 years.
Rhoeo discolor
Rhoeo discolor is also called purple brocade orchid. It is an evergreen perennial herb of Commelinaceae. The leaves are broadly lanceolate and arranged in a ring on short stems. The leaf surface is smooth and dark green, and the leaf underside is dark purple; the flowers are axillary, and the white flowers are surrounded by two mussel-shell-like purple bracts. There are long white hairs on the filaments. It is a common indoor foliage plant.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It likes a warm and humid climate and is suitable for growing in environments at 15-25°C. It likes light and is also shade-tolerant, fears blazing sun, and requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For the potting soil of Rhoeo discolor, it is best to mix 2 parts pond mud and 1 part peat. Because it is highly adaptable, management is relatively extensive. Apart from shading or placing it in semi-shade from May to October, it should be given sufficient light at other times; watering should prefer moist over dry, but it must not be overly humid or waterlogged, otherwise root rot will occur over time; when the weather is dry, spray water frequently to keep the growing environment at relatively high air humidity. Fertilization should not be excessive; applying cake fertilizer water 1-2 times is enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid place, keep it at about 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist; do not let it be too wet.
Rhoeo discolor is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings or sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring together with repotting. The method is to cut the dense mother plant from the gaps with a sharp knife for division. Cuttings can be done throughout the growing season. The method is to cut 7-10 cm from the top of the stem, remove the lower leaves, insert into sand, keep moist, and roots will form in about 2 weeks. Sowing is often done in pots in April, and after emergence the seedlings grow rapidly. When the small seedlings grow to about one inch, they should be transplanted in time, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full plants.
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'
Dieffenbachia seguine is native to Colombia and prefers a warm, humid climate. Its optimal growing temperature is 25°C to 30°C; in winter, indoor temperatures should also be maintained around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, mix 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand. Dieffenbachia seguine prefers semi-shaded conditions and dislikes direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors year-round. It tolerates moisture, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray constantly seeping into the soil through the drainage holes. In winter, watering should be restricted; the lower the temperature, the more careful you must be to water less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and drop, but as long as the plant is not damaged by frost, it will sprout new leaves again the following spring. If kept indoors for the winter, growth may be weak and leggy; in that case, place it outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and move it back indoors once its vigor recovers. Fertilize during the growing season, depending on growth vigor, once or twice a month, mainly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote lush green foliage, but do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seed, so seed propagation is difficult. Propagation is basically asexual, mainly by tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. For cuttings, in spring cut old stems into 10 to 15 cm sections and insert them at an angle into sandy soil, keeping them moist; after roots and leaves form, transplant into pots. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, cut stems into sections with one or two nodes, about 5 to 6 cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut ends are dry, then plant directly into pots and keep moist; they will quickly root and leaf out. You can also cut leaf-bearing stem sections and place them in a clear glass water bottle, fixing them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration; in about half a month you will see pure white, jade-like adventitious roots grow, making it possible to enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, be careful not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes during handling. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as Dieffenbachia seguine, also of some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant, and sturdy stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.
Other types
Its key cultivation points are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to sufficient watering, sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water excessively; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after bringing it indoors for winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it is prone to cold damage, leaf drop, and death. In winter, spray-wash the leaf surface once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being soiled by smoke and dust, keeping the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is relatively conducive to fully exerting nutrient availability and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in fertilized acidic cultivation soil. After potting, place it in a shaded spot for a few days. The key cultivation points of Rohdea japonica are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. In summer it grows vigorously and needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips may dry and the edges scorch, affecting the ornamental effect. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it must not be watered too much, otherwise root rot is likely. Normally, just water the potting soil moderately; water only when the potting soil is dry. It is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, also sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.[3]
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing; this can promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. In June-July, when flowering is vigorous, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period, it must not be exposed to rain; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place protected from rain.
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, with the temperature maintained at 6-18°C, preventing the room temperature from being too high, which would cause the plant to consume too many nutrients.
Fruiting
The fruit of Rohdea japonica often does not set easily. How can you make it set fruit?
① Do not water too frequently; water only when the potting soil is dry. It is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet.
② Do not expose it to rain when flowering; place it in a cool, ventilated place protected from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is sufficient.
④ There must be an environment for snails to carry pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruiting can generally be expected. It flowers in May-June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal conditions, the fruit does not drop throughout the winter.
Leaves
Rohdea japonica prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment, and dislikes direct strong sunlight in summer. The key to growing Rohdea japonica well is to avoid direct strong sunlight in summer when the weather is hot and the sunshine is intense. Otherwise, the leaf tips may dry and the edges scorch or even turn yellow and wither, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after bringing it outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves, or in a shaded spot on a balcony, and care should be taken to prevent rain exposure. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and watering should be controlled in winter. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, the roots rot easily. But the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, problems such as dry leaf tips also easily occur.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which can make the plants grow robustly and the leaves green. In addition, around the Beginning of Summer, remove a few of the old outer leaves of mature plants to encourage the sprouting of new buds, new leaves, and the emergence of flower scapes.
Cold damage
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, Dieffenbachia picta is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not managed promptly it can die. So what measures should be taken after cold damage occurs?
[Very slight cold damage]: The leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if dehydrated. At this point, move the Dieffenbachia picta to a warmer place so it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise abruptly after the damage, to avoid leaf wilting.
[Mild cold damage]: In addition to drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches resembling scalds from boiling water. To handle this, cut off the cold-damaged patches on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
[Moderate cold damage]: Most of the leaves show cold patches, and the petioles show water-soaked patches and lose green color. At this point, cut off both leaves and petioles, smear the wounds with plant ash or coal ash, then place in a warm spot, appropriately control watering, and let it slowly return to normal.
[Severe cold damage]: The young branches and new leaves lose green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is damaged by cold and rots. The remedy is to promptly dig up the plant, cut off the underground parts, and cut away the damaged branches and stems; after smearing the wounds with plant ash, store them in moist plain sand and take cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and disease spots appear on the entire plant, the hope of saving it is very slim, and you should consider replacing the plant.
Pest and disease control of Rohdea japonica
During the growing period, Rohdea japonica is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale, and other problems.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica and is prone to occur in weather with high humidity. The lesions initially appear as small brown spots, with a water-soaked, fading green margin, expanding in concentric rings, round to oval, with brown edges and grayish-white centers. In the later stage, dark brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesions, becoming a dark brown mold layer under humid conditions. The control method is to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000x solution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica and can spread to the petioles in severe cases. The lesions initially appear as water-soaked small yellow spots, and after expanding become oval to irregular brown or yellowish-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; in the later stage the lesions merge into a dry, withered mass and produce small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favors its occurrence. The control method is to strengthen cultivation and increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900x solution, or 70% thiophanate 1500x solution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants; Rohdea japonica is one of the flowers it damages. When brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers on the leaf surface or young leaves, piercing and sucking the plant sap, while excreting a sticky liquid; its excrement easily causes massive reproduction of sooty mold fungi, turning stems and leaves black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellow, withered leaves, and hindering ornamentation. In severe outbreaks, the branches and stems are covered with insect bodies, causing the plant to yellow and wither and affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants or few insects, generally scrape off the insect bodies with a bamboo strip or similar; ② During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution), and you can also spray 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution to kill them.
[Distribution] Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and other places.
[Symptoms] In the early stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the underside of the leaves; after 2-3 days the lesions slightly sink and become small brown spots, pinhead-sized, round or irregular, and later gradually expand into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions, 1.5-3.0 mm in diameter, with the lesions slightly showing concentric rings and a faded zone around the margin. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older lower leaves, where there are even more spots. The lesions expand and gradually merge together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, and the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turn brown to black. At this point, the leaves on the stems wither, showing angular necrosis symptoms, and then bacteria infect the pith and cortex, with only a few leaf clusters remaining at the branch tips, while the entire stem turns black, shrivels, and rots. When cuttings are affected, they cannot root and slowly rot from the base upward, with the leaves withering and showing angular necrosis.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargonii, of the class Eubacteria, order Eubacteriales, genus Xanthomonas; it is rod-shaped with a rounded tip and a single polar flagellum. Its optimal temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.
[Disease pattern] The bacterium can spread via cuttings, contact, and splashing water droplets, and seeds may carry the bacterium and transmit it; in moist soil the pathogen can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, dense planting and rapid growth make the disease more severe, older lower leaves of the plant are more severely affected, and it is more severe in warm, humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus, and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus, and high calcium suppress symptoms. Different species and cultivars of Pelargonium differ in disease resistance; among Pelargonium cultivars, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants in the Geraniaceae are asymptomatic carriers.
[Control methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Ensure ventilation and light penetration between plants and avoid excessively high humidity; do not spray water directly on the plants, so that splashing water droplets do not transmit the disease; do not select cuttings from diseased plants, remove all diseased leaves and branches, and avoid contaminated soil soiling the leaves. Diseased soil must be centrally treated, and when necessary, sterilize the soil and flower pots. The pathogen can survive in the soil on propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonia complex 300x solution, or 50% xiaojunling 1000x solution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased residues. Soak and disinfect flower pots, planting benches, and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution; disinfect soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the disease occurs, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) × 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, several times in succession.
Medicinal or dietary value of Rohdea japonica
The medical information and health dietary information on Huahua Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower-care mission: Love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow medical advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, used medicinally as rhizome or whole plant. Rohdea japonica is also known as zhanshejian, dongbudiaocao, tiebiandan, and jiujielian. Rohdea japonica has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis. Rohdea japonica is used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease.
Medicinal name: Rohdea japonica
Aliases: zhanshejian, dongbudiaocao, tiebiandan, jiujielian.
Meridian tropism: bitter, slightly sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
Effects: clear heat and detoxify, strengthen the heart and promote diuresis.
Indications: used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; externally used for traumatic injuries, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and boils and swelling.
Dosage: rhizome 15-25 g; leaves 5-10 g; for external use, an appropriate amount, pounded to extract juice and applied to the affected area, or pounded and applied to the affected area.
Source: Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, used medicinally as rhizome or whole plant. In autumn, dig up the rhizome, wash it, remove the fibrous roots, and use it fresh or slice and dry it in the sun. The whole plant is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
Source morphology: perennial evergreen herb. Rhizome short and thick. Leaves basal, broadly strap-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape; the perianth is connate, globose-campanulate, with six lobes, not very obvious, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; stamens six; ovary globose, stigma three-lobed. Berry globose, orange-red when ripe. Produced in China and Japan; commonly cultivated in southwestern, central, and eastern China.
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. If the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it generally causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without care will make it itch more. Note that Rohdea japonica includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two types is different. If taken internally as Chinese medicine, after about 1 hour of excessive internal use, symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue appear; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure appear; in severe cases, the patient is restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For its rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be used: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete intravenous infusion within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon japonicus 9 g, Schisandra chinensis 6 g, decoct twice, combine the liquids, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
3. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
Toxicity
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. If the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it generally causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without care will make it itch more. Note that Rohdea japonica includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two types is different. If taken internally as Chinese medicine, after about 1 hour of excessive internal use, symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue appear; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure appear; in severe cases, the patient is restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For its rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be used: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete intravenous infusion within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon japonicus 9 g, Schisandra chinensis 6 g, decoct twice, combine the liquids, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
3. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
Landscape uses of Rohdea japonica
Because the leaves of Rohdea japonica are broad and deep green, and the berries are bright red and round, it is very beautiful and has long been a flower valued for both foliage and fruit.
Its leaf form is elegant and beautiful, often placed on the long tables of studies and halls, or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting; in autumn and winter, paired with red fruits, it adds even more color.
[Other uses] The rhizome and leaves can be used medicinally; see below for details.
[Brief cultivation history and culture] It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because its name and fruit color (red) are auspicious, it has often been used through the ages as a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace, and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work "Hua Jing" records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune; when building a house or moving residence, when sending betrothal gifts or managing a pond, when a child is first born, and for all happy occasions, it is always used."
The flower language of Rohdea japonica
The flower language of Rohdea japonica: health, longevity
Rohdea japonica is suitable for accenting living rooms and studies. Decorative use: young plants in small pots can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium-sized potted plants can be placed in a corner of the living room or beside the sofa as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability!
The cultural background of Rohdea japonica
1. "Hua Jing": Rohdea japonica, also called yun. Broad leaves grow in clusters, dark green, not withering in winter or summer. Many families in Wu plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house or moving residence, when sending betrothal gifts or managing a pond, when a child is first born, and for all happy occasions, it is always used, as an auspicious phrase; as for marriage betrothal gifts, even if the living plant is not taken, people will cut and make silk or satin in imitation of its form to replace it. Together with auspicious grass, scallion, and pine, the four are arranged together in a pot, which is also a conventional practice. Planting method: at the two equinoxes of spring and autumn, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shaded spot. It is commonly said: the fourteenth day of the fourth month is the birthday of the immortals; one should trim old leaves and throw them onto the main road for people to trample, then the new leaves will surely grow abundantly. It likes being banked with rich soil and watered with cold tea.
2. "Gangmu Shiyi": Zhejiang wedding ceremonies often use it to accompany gift boxes, taking its year-round evergreen nature, with the meaning of eternal youth. {Note}: The medicinal Rohdea japonica also includes the same-genus plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort., mostly cultivated.
Film-related
"Léon: The Professional," as a film involving darkness and violence, has received both praise and controversy since its release. Amid the dark, violent subject matter and scenes, this pot of Rohdea japonica (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen') plays an important role in diluting the violence and making the visuals and even the content harmonious.
It is not hard to see that even as Leon wanders everywhere and lives on the run, he carries this Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' with him, and always likes to put it on the balcony after dawn and take it back after dusk. He regards the Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' as his best friend, carefully watering it and wiping the dust off its leaves, which more subtly expresses the other, serious side of Leon as a hitman - not lacking in love. And this better neutralizes the two elements of violence and love.
At the end, the heroine Mathilda takes Leon's pot of Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' out of the pot and plants it in a place that looks very sunny and warm, with harmonious human relations. When Mathilda plants the flower, she does not shed tears, nor does she fully express the feeling of losing Leon. She only mutters to Leon's plant: I think we'll be okay here... Accompanied by positive emotions, this once again pushes the film to a moving climax.
The role and uses of Rohdea japonica and feng shui effects
Rohdea japonica can remove harmful substances such as nicotine and formaldehyde. Growing Rohdea japonica will create a perfect living space for the residential environment. From the perspective of feng shui, growing Rohdea japonica can make people healthy, energetic, and far from illness, injury, and disaster, and make the family happy and auspicious and the couple loving and harmonious. To make good use of the feng shui effect of Rohdea japonica, note that placing it in the bedroom helps the owner establish a feng shui home and benefits the development of the couple's relationship. Generally speaking, people born in the Year of the Rabbit and the Year of the Tiger are suitable for growing woody plants, and Rohdea japonica is the best choice.
Rohdea japonica pictures
How to grow Rohdea japonica
How to grow Rohdea japonica
To grow Rohdea japonica, you should first understand its growth habits and provide it with sufficient water and fertilizer conditions. Grasp the following key maintenance points, and your Rohdea japonica will grow more and more vigorously:
1. Soil: Use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium, with a pH between 6-6.5. If you do not want to mix it yourself, you can buy special soil for the plant.
2. Light: In summer, place it in a shaded spot to avoid strong light; in winter, place it in a sunny, well-ventilated spot.
3. Temperature: Try to keep it between 6-18°C, which is most favorable for the growth of Rohdea japonica, avoiding scorching in summer and freezing injury in winter.
4. Fertilizing: Apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; during the peak growing period, apply topdressing once every 10 days, which can make the leaves greener and more glossy.
5. Repotting: Try to repot Rohdea japonica once a year, choosing spring and autumn; when repotting, remove aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves and prepare suitable soil.
How to hydroponically grow Rohdea japonica
From an environmental perspective, the roots of hydroponic plants are less prone to breeding bacteria than those of soil-grown plants, and they also look more pleasing; Rohdea japonica can of course also be grown hydroponically, but if not cared for properly, the survival rate is relatively low. If you want to hydroponically grow Rohdea japonica, start from the following aspects:
1. Rinse the soil off the roots and remove dead roots.
2. Prepare a suitable transparent vase, wash it, and set it aside.
3. When growing hydroponically, do not immerse the roots entirely in water; leave 1/3 or 1/4 above the water surface.
4. During hydroponic cultivation, change the water once every 3-4 days.
5. When Rohdea japonica grows new roots, promptly remove the old roots.
6. After new roots grow, change the water once every 15 days and add foliage plant nutrient solution, but note that the water should not be completely replaced.
How to divide Rohdea japonica
To cultivate new plants, cuttings, division, and sowing can generally be used, but Rohdea japonica cannot be grown from cuttings and can only be propagated by the latter two methods. Among them, division is also the most commonly used method for home potted Rohdea japonica. So how exactly do you divide it? You might as well learn to do it.
First, prepare the potting soil. The potting soil suitable for the growth of Rohdea japonica must be loose and breathable; it is recommended to use a potting soil mixed with half fine sand and half leaf mold, which is more conducive to root growth.
Second, prune the roots. In spring and autumn, use a knife to cut off the newly sprouted buds at the rhizome along with some lateral roots, and smear the cut with plant ash to prevent bacterial infection.
Next, dry the roots. Place Rohdea japonica in a cool, dry place and wait for the cut to dry slightly.
Then, plant it in a pot. Plant Rohdea japonica into new potting soil, and note not to water it first.
Finally, provide frequent care. After 1-2 days, water the potting soil until slightly thoroughly wet, then water once every 3-4 days. After Rohdea japonica produces new roots, appropriately apply special fertilizer for plants.
How Rohdea japonica overwinters
In winter, the weather is cold. If potted plants are not given any cold protection measures, they are highly prone to freezing injury or even death. Although Rohdea japonica remains green in winter, you must also pay attention to keeping it warm. To let Rohdea japonica overwinter smoothly, you need to do the following cold protection measures well:
1. Move it indoors. Winter temperatures are low, especially for those in the north; be sure to move Rohdea japonica indoors to avoid wind and cold. When the temperature is below 6°C, the leaves are highly prone to freezing injury and cause permanent damage.
2. Increase light exposure: Winter light is weak, so place Rohdea japonica in a sunny spot with sufficient light to strengthen photosynthesis and promote plant growth.
3. Regulate room temperature: The suitable growth temperature for Rohdea japonica is 15-18°C, so it is best if there is heating indoors, but be careful not to place the plant directly beside the heater, as the leaves are prone to dehydration.
4. Spray water on the leaves: Although watering should be reduced in winter, the leaves of Rohdea japonica are relatively broad; if lacking water, the leaf tips will dry up and the leaves turn yellow. It is recommended to use a small spray nozzle to spray the leaves appropriately to keep the air at a certain humidity.
What to do if the leaves of Rohdea japonica turn yellow
Yellowing leaves of Rohdea japonica caused by improper care are not frightening; as long as you find out where the problem lies and treat the cause, the plant can recover. The following common factors that cause yellow leaves in Rohdea japonica are worth a good look:
1. Overwatering: Too much water can cause a lack of oxygen in the soil, hindering the normal respiration of the Rohdea japonica root system and causing the leaves to turn yellow. Therefore, watering should be controlled and the soil loosened.
2. Drought and dehydration: Not watering for a long time affects the absorption of nutrients by the lucky bamboo (Aglaonema/Chinese evergreen), causing yellow leaves due to malnutrition. It is advisable to water lightly and spray water first, then switch to normal watering once the plant gradually recovers.
3. Prolonged nutrient deficiency: Not fertilizing for a long time leads to a lack of nitrogen and other nutrient elements in the soil, making the leaves of the Chinese evergreen thin and yellow. It is advisable to apply more diluted decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound flower fertilizer.
4. Over-fertilization: Excessive fertilization causes new leaves to be thick and fleshy, while old leaves develop dry tips and turn yellow. At this point, fertilization should be stopped and watering increased so that the fertilizer flows out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
5. Scorching heat and high temperatures: Too strong light and too high temperatures can easily scorch the leaves of the Chinese evergreen, so it should be moved promptly to a well-ventilated, shady spot.
6. Excessive shading: If light is lacking for a long time, photosynthesis in the Chinese evergreen weakens, less chlorophyll is synthesized in the leaves, and the plant naturally develops yellow leaves. Therefore, appropriate lighting conditions should still be ensured, especially in winter.