How to grow coleus? Regular fertilizing is key

Coleus, also known as painted nettle. Because the leaf color varies with different growing conditions and is not a single color, it is called coleus. And this article brings you the cultivation methods for coleus, take a look.

Coleus profile:

Common names: coleus, painted nettle, purple mint

Scientific name: Hyptis lorentziana

Family: Lamiaceae

Distribution: South America

Light intensity: 2500Lux

Temperature: 26-28℃

Hardness: 2-12DH

P H：6.5-6.8

Position: midground and background plant

How to grow coleus:

Coleus is a dicotyledonous plant and an emergent aquatic plant. Old scientific name Hemigraphis traian (incorrect). This aquatic plant should belong to the aquatic mint group of the Lamiaceae family, native to wetlands or watersides in Venezuela, Uruguay and Argentina, and occasionally it can also grow submerged during the rainy season. It is also called "purple mint" because its submerged leaves can be grown purple. The emersed leaves resemble mint, but the leaves are larger, decussately opposite, green, slightly glossy, with netted veins, leaf length up to about 6 cm, leaf width up to about 4 cm. Slightly serrated margin. Petiole up to about 3 cm. The stem cross-section is square. It produces small white flower clusters from the leaf axils. The submerged leaves somewhat resemble grape leaves, and under ideal cultivation conditions they can be grown purple-red, even deep purple, making it a quite beautiful aquatic plant. When nitrate is not lower than 10 ppm and phosphate is maintained at 1~2 ppm, the growth rate is very fast, and the leaves grow larger. Strong light and strong carbon dioxide are the basic conditions for growing it successfully and beautifully, and regular fertilizing is also indispensable, otherwise it will not only affect its growth rate, but the plant will also become miniaturized.

Lavender lavandula pedunculata Lavender illustrated guide: how to grow lavender / how to propagate lavender

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | The Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | The Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. Which flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages do they have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be hydroponically grown, but different kinds of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plant lines that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air to be regularly pumped into the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different kinds of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas must be adopted. Therefore, flower plants can only be hydroponically grown after appropriate acclimation and adaptation. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including the golden
money tree, money tree, roundleaf peperomia, sunflower, arrowroot, little angel, Marian, sansevieria, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine, and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated liquids?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is to consider that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they will precipitate with each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market are of only one kind, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and cannot be too much. In general, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to the healthy growth of the root system. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also cannot be too little; if it is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer of about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because hydroponic flowers placed in the home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular times. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day each week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each kind of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every kind of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to select different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Office of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, inner plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown directly in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-cultured flowers and wash the root system clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponics.

8. Do flowers and fish kept together need feeding?

Answer: No feeding is needed. Because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small, these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, after adding feed, it is also easy to make the nutrient solution turbid, and the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution decreases, affecting the growth of flowers and fish.

9. Replenishing or changing the nutrient solution when hydroponically growing flowers?

Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plants. If the weather is dry and the plants are relatively large, generally after about 15-20 days, the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at the time of replenishment is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated liquid for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Home Hydroponic Flower Experience Talk

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1. Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. 2. No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing the labor of growing flowers. 3. Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4. Flexible in material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor furnishings. 5. Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen, spotted dumb cane, Monstera deliciosa, taro, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, dayflower, inch plant, coleus, Brazil wood, miniature coconut, hibiscus, fuchsia, and so on. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other such flowering plants have good results when hydroponically grown. Boston fern, pot marigold, petunia, red-back Chinese croton, and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1. Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water may be used. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, and so on. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, texture, and so on of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect them before use. 2. Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as: goose eggs... pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be hydroponically grown in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best hydroponically grown when the first flower bud is ready to open, such as cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, and so on, often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1. Root-washing method. Select potted plants with full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove them from the pot and remove the soil, wash the root soil clean with water close to room temperature, and cut off already decayed and aged root strips. If the fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 may be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the root system in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes, which both sterilizes and disinfects and also promotes new root growth, after which hydroponics can be carried out. This method is mostly used for relatively large plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2. Water-cutting method. Select semi-lignified branches of the current year that are robust and free of pests and diseases, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is often made two or three millimeters below the stem node. The cut opening should be smoothed with a sharp knife (washed and disinfected beforehand with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changing. 1. Water. Mountain spring water is best; its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not precipitate, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2. Water changing. Due to the normal growth and metabolism of plants, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed. At the same time, the root system produces mucus, the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning, and a considerable amount of the nutrient solution added to the water has been absorbed by the plants. Too much residual unabsorbed elements will also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers; change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15-20 days. Each time the water is changed, the mucus on the roots should be washed off, and aged roots and rotten roots should be cut away. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone. If it is too deep, it is easy to lack oxygen and rot the roots; if it is too shallow, the root system is prone to water shortage, affecting growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots can be produced. Along with the growth of the flower plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1. The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read in detail. 2. Various special nutrient solutions must be used only for their special purposes, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia flowers, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as pothos, spotted dumb cane, and so on.

Pest and Disease Control Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics has escaped infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it will still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed at the roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not suitable to use chemical pesticides for insect killing, nor can large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also cause pollution to the environment.

For possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual catching may be used, or they may be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by the blazing sun, an environment with poor air circulation, excessive shading, too high a concentration of nutrient solution, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way may all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the liquid drops sharply, root rot is prone to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, find the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with severed sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become severed and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with severed sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clear water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the severed section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow shrub, arrowhead plant, and so on can all use this method.

The Complete Handbook of Household Hydroponic Flowers

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate on the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) as they grow, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pendent pineapple. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off tiller buds with roots can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must have three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no bottom holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (suitable ratio) and all the essential mineral nutrients for flower plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Major elements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and inject hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, ordinary drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. They have all undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flower plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let the tap water out, store it in a relatively large-diameter bucket for several days, and stir it a few times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the acidity and alkalinity of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the absorption of trace elements by the flowers, so that physiological metabolism is not disturbed, growth is normal, and leaf color is emerald green.

How to Carry Out Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under the condition of root hypoxia, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of leaf surface fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-hole spray pot should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer liquid should not be lost. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers have luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as white spathe, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, and so on, during the bud stage, use a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution to spray the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flower plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate in the Latin American rainforests, or in tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and are cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer freezing damage, with leaf edges scorched and dry, old leaves turning yellow, drooping and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-resistant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, candle plant, and so on, and grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and brown scorch-like spots appear on the leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, coleus, and so on. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this point is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Control the temperature at 15°C to 28°C, suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each kind of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light and without direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated at regular times. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After the root system is cleaned, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

Most foliage flowers originate in warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. The simple method is to spray the leaf surfaces of the flowers. (To prevent the sprayed water mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to the balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display.) When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surfaces and do not run down. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surfaces, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surfaces and remove dust from the leaf surfaces. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clear water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor enough fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases. Their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as leaves turning yellow and falling off and new shoots being thin and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular times to form air convection and let outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves and dry leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial to both the growth of hydroponic flowers and human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics has escaped infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it will still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed at the roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not suitable to use chemical pesticides for insect killing, nor can large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also cause pollution to the environment.

For possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual catching may be used, or they may be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection with pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by the blazing sun, an environment with poor air circulation, excessive shading, too high a concentration of nutrient solution, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way may all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the liquid drops sharply, root rot is prone to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, find the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with severed sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become severed and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with severed sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clear water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the severed section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow shrub, arrowhead plant, and so on can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Properly displaying a few plants is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, flowers and people will compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are suitable to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to calculate by room area and plant one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters. By this standard, for a room of 50 to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can satisfy viewing and will not cause flowers and people to compete for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people because of their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "shoulds":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, hygrophilous plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, and so on.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to freezing damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little protection include Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf oyster plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, miniature coconut, broadleaf lady palm, and so on.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so careful identification is necessary when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with spirited, upright branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The hydroponic flowers of "Hydroponic Flower King" are very simple to manage in daily life. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaf surfaces in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surfaces, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment because of pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they have broken away from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their myriad beautiful forms. They are very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant root systems from a soil-born environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to cultivate water roots through planting baskets, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutagenesis. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit space, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market. At the same time, because production costs are relatively low, more people can enjoy the lifestyle fashion brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home. However, common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully hydroponically cultivated, and the number of experimental varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic components, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects unfavorable to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special components, mosquitoes and insects are not easy to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your home's potted flowers, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers requires suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, and so on. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in the ecological habits and tissue structure of flowers, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissues in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissues to the root parts of the plant for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissues and aerial roots that absorb oxygen, are still very adaptable to hydroponic conditions. But for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to make hydroponics successful, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never cultivate blindly, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower Types Adapted to Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value. After soil-cultivated plants are washed with water, most of their original root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen, dumb cane, silver king, golden queen, clustered dragon scale, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, white spathe, green emerald, philodendron, fiddle-leaf philodendron, green emperor philodendron, arrowhead plant, taro, anthurium, emerald gem, and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple-leaf oyster plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bamboo leaf, inch plant, and so on, all of which can root and grow rapidly when water-cut.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangle aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, ti plant, dragon blood tree, iron horse tail, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged evergreen, silver-edged lilyturf, and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adaptable to hydroponic conditions, such as houseleek, lotus palm, silver wave brocade, jewel flower, air plant, and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, bamboo begonia, ox-ear begonia, green emerald, clivia, slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, candle plant, leaf cactus, triangle bamboo, pendent pineapple, earth star, golden chicken bone, star jasmine, dragon bone, colorful cloud pavilion, variegated periwinkle, red-back Chinese croton, four seas wave, English ivy, common ivy, broadleaf lady palm, miniature coconut, and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very adaptable to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering, such as some species of the dumb cane genus and croton, whose overwintering temperature requirement is above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and dragon blood tree types also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this of course poses no problem, but for most families, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature freezing damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf edges will scorch and dry, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, even causing massive leaf shedding or partial branch and leaf death, thereby losing ornamental value. Therefore, when there is no condition to keep mosquitoes stable, you must pay attention to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as evergreen, star jasmine, broadleaf lady palm, agave, aucuba, jewel flower, sea onion, variegated lilyturf, and so on, which can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf oyster plant, bamboo leaf, aloe, spider plant, silver wave brocade, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, golden chicken bone, colorful cloud pavilion, variegated periwinkle, common ivy, miniature coconut, and so on, which can overwinter safely with a little protection during overwintering.

Of course, some flowers such as red emerald philodendron, green emerald philodendron, arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, croton, and so on, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation in warm spring.

The shade tolerance issue

Because indoor light conditions are poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer partial shade or tolerate partial shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity; for example, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), purple heart (Tradescantia pallida), and inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina) need ample diffused light, while peace lily (Spathiphyllum), 'Green Giant', Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), and silver king (Aglaonema) all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Since different rooms and different light conditions within a room vary, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, to ensure normal growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it causes the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, with thin stems, longer internodes, smaller and deformed leaves, loss of green color and loss of their proper gloss; leaves with colored stripes fade and lose color, and even a large number of leaves drop, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Water-culture technique for spider plant

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), with its fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant the spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower layer is a bottomless bottle vessel; plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, letting the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-infested leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, fill the bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle; place ceramic material or pebbles (large grains) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and fill the lower bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Add flower nutrient solution along with watering and water changes through the roots; for foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: The spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When flowering, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote re-flowering.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family have 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in waters or swamps of forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in the Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma in stressful environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severely oxygen-deficient state. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in the Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in the Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in the Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, the Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation”, a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in the Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of the aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation”, which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation”. It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
2. The Araceae belongs to the Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and the Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that the Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, along an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationships of the Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that the Arales evolved from the Liliales, and a few aquatic types in the Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that the Arales share a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with the Arecales and the Commelinales, and can be traced further back to the Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that the Arales has close kinship with the Pandanales and the Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with the Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that the Arales has kinship correlation with the Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with the Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During the hydroponics process, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will degrade water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone with your hand, and the epidermis easily tears off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually rots upward from the root tip; after pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, pay attention to observation; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene rigid foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight tidying up, they can become hydroponic carriers of varying sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with quite a delightful feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, etc., which were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cups: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup just about 1/3 the size of the mouth to serve as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material does not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used as clothing lining. Gently rinse the soil off the seedling to be hydroponically grown or the purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material; some is yellow, some is yellow with white), etc., to thicken it so that it can just fit into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are on hand, floral foam, after proper cutting, can also serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the aid of the wicking action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance from the liquid surface to the bottom of the planting cup can be larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae that compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sunlight exposure, it is best to have shading measures, or place it where direct sunlight cannot reach.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc. with a certain strength can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with a wooden board or foam board. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Top cover: The top cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a piece of polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the top cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough that the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, cut a small hole about 2 cm in diameter on the side of the top cover, near the inner side of the box body, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cups: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a piece of polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net inner area of the box and 2.5 to 3 cm thick as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as wicking for the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The wicking cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang down freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to wick up the nutrient solution, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's root system can extend freely on the floating board, contacting the air more directly. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution and oxygenate it.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be wicked up. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to enable good growth. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves with water (to prevent the sprayed water mist from wetting furniture, you can move it to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, then move the flower back indoors for display after spraying). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For the leaves of flowers that are relatively firm and have a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surface and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flower; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains; in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth becomes worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, letting outside fresh air enter indoors, which can increase the content of dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need this work done well.

The light required by hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is diffused light coming through doors and windows and indoor light illumination, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak light environment, becoming dull and lusterless; such flowers can only maintain leaf color luster in an environment with relatively ample light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of the placed flowers should be rotated regularly; this work can be combined and completed when cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing biased to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius the tissues will undergo necrosis. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter generally does not drop below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; and in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer; at the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; the reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and need the soil changed once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from the traditional flower pot and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can endow blooming cyclamen plants with multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. With the preparation work complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water; the plant together with the substrate can also be placed in a basin of water and the substrate swished off in the water, then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, avoiding damage to the cyclamen root system as much as possible. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the pre-prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that the water for cultivating cyclamen does not need any fertilizer added. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of the water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessel and the combination method of the cyclamen plant. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ you can view the roots, view the leaves, and also enjoy the flowers, etc.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- and disease-infested leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), place a few beautiful river stones in the bottle bottom, move the prepared Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: One, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Two, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Three, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the Hoya head, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and extend the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower water culture and hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are obviously different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients; their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

For hydroponic flowers, the plant root system is fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, and the root system is soaked in water, while the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flower cultivation is also called nutrient solution culture. The plant habits and internal structures of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, aglaonema, clustered winter taro, Monstera, jewel flower, inch plant, kalanchoe, etc.

Northeastern University of China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort has already developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering ornamental flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. There are also some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as tiger tongue orchid, that have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed; the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water-root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants will become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches will be more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note that the pH value should be controlled between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: characterized by the plant root system being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air for dissolved oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. An appropriate amount of nutrient solution in a plastic bag can cultivate plants; on this basis, further improvements were made: change the plastic bag to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow fast, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After atomization, the nutrient solution is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and the plants grow fast. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponics technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar; wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black lacquer, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is opaque. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle; it must not be too full, and there must be a gap left for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water insertion to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing the solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For adult flowers, change once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growth season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should be added to the bottle frequently to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: You can use fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself; the formula is as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/l; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/l; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/l; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/l; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/l; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/l; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/l; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/l; trace elements 2 ml; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/l; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water insertion method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut a part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node; the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into the water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root-washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other substrate cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flower in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel; after a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flower grows new roots in the water, it indicates it has adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller-bud stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select a larger tiller bud, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller bud from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller bud), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Runner plantlet picking method: Some flowers grow runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets; most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and pineapple have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of the flower, pick the formed small plantlets for hydroponics, which is very convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen, purple-backed oyster plant, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulb flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus, etc.

Strategy for the difficulties of summer care of hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficulties of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated with non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, which may cause root rot, withered branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperature, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely get through summer.

Water-cultured silver-edge grass

2. How to increase the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, at most not exceeding 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced with new solution immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times; after shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made based on this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates and flows within the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar”, and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate into the vessel

If while cultivating hydroponic flowers there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put the air stone into the static hydroponic flower vessel for aeration (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out); using the flow of air to increase oxygen also has a good effect.

3. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Most of the flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers for both flower and leaf appreciation. Such as Syngonium, white jade aglaonema, Spathiphyllum, anthurium, bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form and cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but it also must not be too shady, to avoid blocking the flower's photosynthesis and causing weak growth, elongated stem nodes, and thinner leaf texture. This causes the leaves of flowers with color blocks and colored patterns to lose their gloss.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast wind speed will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases, and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It is also necessary to consider that the flower's temperature requirement is higher during the day than at night; if the air conditioner is turned off at night, the environmental temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, which is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flower or spray the leaf surface to increase environmental humidity; place the flower at a position farther from the air outlet of the air conditioner; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What to do about root rot in hydroponic flowers?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature will also rise, microbial cultivation accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, may cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants Cordyline, Madagascar dragon tree (fine-leaf Dracaena), and rainbow dracaena.

The following methods can restore growth to flowers with root rot:

① Remove all rotted roots; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut away the infected parts.

② Soak the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize them.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water every 1-2 days, replacing only with clean water and without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can begin to sprout.

⑥ The newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

Six: What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good container transparency, a bright environment, or leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long can all trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a shield or old newspaper to cover the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

Seven: What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special form of cultivation, belonging to a soilless cultivation method. The roots of the flowers are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six bottles, or even a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers of different varieties are being grown at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. They are non-toxic and harmless, and the pH value and ion concentration are conducive to nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, for Spathiphyllum (silver-bract taro), pothos, mini Monstera, red ruby taro, and Philodendron, nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For coleus, begonia, and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass through summer safely.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratios indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouting under hydroponic conditions has changed, becoming looser than in soil cultivation, with larger cells. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Excessive concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

Eight: Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The most suitable seasons to convert soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers are spring and autumn. At this time, the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth, and they adapt easily to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties that are more closely related to wetland plants. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium, mini Monstera, red ruby Philodendron, giant green pothos, and pothos of the Araceae family, as well as some bromeliad flowers, have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off completely. Rinse repeatedly to protect the roots from damage or minimize it. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day. After five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wan Shou Zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant shape is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo palm, is a small plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperature and high humidity; the wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

2: Suitable for sufficient scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower.

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and wintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; needs heating and warmth in winter.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, many flowers, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of substrate

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, stir evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water. After drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g disodium edetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and air permeability but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally more than in soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the bud formation and leaf bud sprouting stage, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is high. In addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also high, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the weather cools in autumn, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose a plant with a large, dense clump. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for each divided plant. Then repot, water thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded and humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After growth resumes, it can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerant of shade, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves are likely to appear; when ventilation is poor, parasitic insects may breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not prone to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick and many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. Velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause sunscald and leaf scorch, but when too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose thick strong branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting place them in a shaded and humid place; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinching should be done in time to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high temperatures in summer, root rot is likely.

2: Velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch them in time to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlour palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum wintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when too shady, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing in water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus

We know that cactus is favored by people for its unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus uses traditional cultivation methods, it has problems of being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Select the mother plant

First, we should choose a cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus grafted and cultivated with three-ribbed sword is easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots below the body, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or white building foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board. (For fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth part of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down. Note: the bottle mouth should be cut off so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, and then place it in a flat bottle containing nutrient solution.) Insert the three-ribbed sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-ribbed swords just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby accelerate the growth of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and electrify it to achieve a flowing oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, replace the nutrient solution immediately.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the body, as it can easily cause the body to rot and die.

What should be noted when hydroponically cultivating clivia at home?

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and transparent ones are preferable, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth diameter should not be too large.

② Cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③ Changing the liquid. Hydroponic clivia needs regular liquid changes. The number of changes depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the liquid, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically hydroponically cultivate amaryllis

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have already bloomed or not yet bloomed, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulb out, wash off the paste-like material at the cut with clean water, dry it in the shade, and put it into a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing landscape stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulb on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if tap water is used, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper mouth of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a place indoors with sufficient light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days it will begin to grow leaves and roots. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer needs to be supplemented in time. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulb with roots into a flower pot for conventional care. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering gap period.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plant and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human planting history, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation) into Agrculfure. In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts, and they called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test in real time the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless cultivation. Without a medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not emit odor, have no off-flavor, and still grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home also require that the nutrient solution not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires the nutrient solution to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botanist, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home planting have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation techniques, scientists have researched and successfully developed no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet all the above requirements are very rare. Moreover, due to commercial interests, all the major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their number one secret, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public sources are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home use can be determined with just one test. You only need to see whether the plants it displays grow vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How do hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and below 0°C their tissues will become necrotic. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not drop below 5°C. If a few days of extreme low temperature occur, this can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a localized microclimate. In northern China, because most indoor spaces have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

◆5. Can hydroponic cultivation only be used for certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown. In homes with a balcony, there are more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has sample setups with fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for raising fish, and because the volume is limited, fish species should also be selected carefully. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Some aggressive or highly destructive fish are not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers because they will damage the plant roots. Delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. Feeding is exactly the same as when we normally raise fish in a fish tank, with no difference at all.
Because the special substances in "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which benefits the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not suffer from hypoxia in the nutrient solution, so there is no need to install aeration equipment on days that are not particularly hot.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use. When diluting, tap water is generally fully sufficient, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test must be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to sit indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to sudden temperature changes, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction of sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow more chaotically without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water and a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week the bottom of the bonsai will show roots growing toward the water. At this point you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can take a bonsai that has already grown water roots, remove it from its pot, fix the plant with a planting basket, and decorate it with stones or ornaments to create a planting basket hydroponic flower. The difference is that at this point, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolic processes, harmful substances in the water will increase. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced with fresh solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizer application and annual soil replacement for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer during autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or fail to grow vigorously?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or insufficient light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market - distinguishing genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Currently many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express too many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, having witnessed everything I cannot help but complain. Because the scams involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed and then directly soaked in water can be kept in water for a period of time. Flood-tolerant plants such as Araceae plants can survive in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot and plant physiological respiration intensifies, oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic creation that cost tens or hundreds to buy and bring home is just a fleeting bloom, not only harming consumer interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now let me use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception tactics" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flood tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no adverse reaction can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely impeded. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial characteristics, this method simply cannot work at all, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call it "deception liquid." It is absolutely impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial gimmick. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique and could truly dominate the market, then franchising would have real meaning. But the current type of franchising can be described as swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content whatsoever - it is just root washing and soaking in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market. Other hydroponic flower stores can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is as good as gone. Truly genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are currently selling are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It would be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring can also be kept in water for a period of time after root washing and soaking. Everyone might as well try it - there is absolutely no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries with more developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be described as full of charlatans, a motley assortment, with the fake mixed in among the genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. Currently, many hydroponic flower vendors do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. They only proceed from the angle of commercial gimmickry and personal profit, passing off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social impact. Some citizens buy at high prices, and before long the plants die from physiological incompatibility, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following ways to avoid being cheated.

A. Distinguish by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not be like roots in soil with distinctions between primary roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs - that is, they will not exist as multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branching based on fibrous adventitious roots. Few orders and simple root structure is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some plants that originally had a taproot, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases significantly, meaning the root proportion is greatly increased, with a large and well-developed root system resembling a beard.

B. Distinguish by root color: Water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white and crisp-tender. Even for some varieties that display their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than soil roots - such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have undergone little or no suberization or lignification from wall thickening.

C. Distinguish by root completeness: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction have regrown and differentiated from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, giving them root completeness. However, for some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, there will always be minor damage or seriously damaged residual roots. This kind of root completeness is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Distinguish by water clarity: Fake hydroponic creations made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, unclear sensation - that is, water quality deterioration or becoming foul-smelling, followed by root rot and eventually plant death.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish genuine from fake: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, have leaf insertion angles noticeably more flat than soil-cultivated soil-washed seedlings - that is, epinastic growth leading to increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions

Apart from light, temperature, and humidity, for which hydroponic flowers have exactly the same environmental requirements as soil cultivation, the management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen are worlds apart. Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source. Generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment; it is clean and hygienic, with a pH below 7, and can be safely used for growing hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, severely eutrophic, and various ions may differ vastly. If any one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage plants or cause poisoning and death, so these are not suitable as water sources for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use low-concentration specialty nutrient solutions based primarily on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements essential for flower growth, with various elements in balanced proportions and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at various growth and development stages. They are non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, facilitating nutrient absorption. Using soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer crushed and applied to hydroponic flowers is not advisable. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. Using organic fertilizer as a nutrient source for hydroponic flowers is even more unacceptable. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and dissolved oxygen is below/ppm/L. The flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen for respiration. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions is very necessary for normal flower growth, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Vibration aeration: hold the flower plant steady with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a mini submersible pump or aeration pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots in such an environment can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and flowers are promoted to grow robustly.

Identifying fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish raised together in a combination of motion and stillness, are the first intuitive impression. The early concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier had grown some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and other easily water-grown plants in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flower" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. Coupled with the broadcasting of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China - some providing technical training, some producing at bases, and some franchising flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profits, put on shows in the market. On one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product. On the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washes away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational capability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide. Those who could survive were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new direction in the flower industry's development. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three to four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

Two, What are genuine hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory perspective, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers growing on top (currently, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody, vine, and succulent plants), and a few cute small fish raised below - that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, genuine hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, causing changes in the physiological characteristics of their root systems, possessing water root systems with plant aeration tissue structure, and being able to adapt to aquatic cultivation for the long term - only then can they become genuine hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, How to identify genuine hydroponic flowers?

Judging from sensory perception:
Hydroponic Flower Technology Status Report - One, Introduction:
A successfully genuine hydroponic plant, after induction and acclimation, should have root systems that are white, elegant, with many fibrous roots, and very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants. Soil-cultivated plant roots are generally a darker black color! (Except for a few plants whose root color has a distinctive natural color, such as Chinese fringeflower, whose roots, branches, and stems are all dark red after induction! Some plants also have roots that are nearly white after soil removal!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it indicates that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and placed there to deceive customers! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commercial product!

Judging from a technical perspective:

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess professional technical proficiency?

If, as some vendors claim, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days, a few hours, or some even say just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes to achieve hydroponic flowers - this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, leading to fermentation and root rot. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aeration tissue that can well adapt to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully accomplished and achieved by nutrient solution alone. It requires comprehensive biological, physical, computer and other methods and means, through a relatively long period of cultivation, fully adapting to the water environment, before it can become a professional genuine hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have relatively strong artistic combination skills and ability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to the mid-to-high-end consumer category. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and arrangement. Each product lies in its artistic glass vase container, beautiful plant shapes, white and elegant roots, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water, grass and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work - apart from natural sensory perception - relatively strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic standards!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a vendor has the capability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded manufacturers as supply sources, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants that have been root-washed as "hydroponic flowers"!

Checking from the variety perspective:

A truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce hydroponic flower varieties that are not limited to those Araceae, Crassulaceae and similar plants that are themselves easy to grow in water, such as peace lily, Philodendron selloum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Chinese evergreen. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and water-loving, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponic cultivation of various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, Malabar chestnut, Polyscias, and even Chinese yew, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a vendor can provide are limited, then they are definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from the time perspective:

Time is the final and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to aquatic cultivation for the long term and are merely a fleeting bloom, dying within a few days - many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce by washing away soil-cultivated roots, achievable within just a few hours, and they fade within days! Therefore, at present, for those sellers who cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for their products, most are speculators. If a vendor cannot provide a shelf life for the product, it is recommended not to purchase, to avoid being cheated!
Four, How to identify genuine professional hydroponic flower producers?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "legitimate" means in their publicity and information dissemination channels to deceive and fool the general consumers and investors. In order to leave no room for so-called high-tech shell companies that have no genuine hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, yet rent a few offices in national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the Retired Cadres Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to grab money; and to leave no room for "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that fight in one place and move to another. It also aims to remove the deceptive market for those who maliciously transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices, and more importantly, to enable you to learn these genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or in what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be extra vigilant, look at several more, and compare more. You must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to visit a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so you will need to think thrice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "education shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," use the skills of "deception master" Zhao Benshan to fool you, making it impossible to guard against!}}; You must carefully verify the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates. You must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is genuine hydroponic flowers through the product itself, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, several types


 How to apply foliar fertilizer to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain deficiencies in the normal development of flowers. To improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate diluted solution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and it can make hydroponic flowers thrive with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing that also have ornamental blooms, such as peace lily, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted solution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week during the bud stage until the flowers open.