Why are the leaves of the Calathea roseopicta turning yellow? Finding the cause first is key

The Calathea roseopicta has densely growing branches and leaves with a full plant shape, thick leathery texture, dark green glossy leaf surfaces, light-colored midribs, and blood-red leaf undersides, forming a striking contrast. It has spike-like inflorescences, bright red bracts and calyx, and white petals. The back is purplish-red. So why are the leaves of the Calathea roseopicta turning yellow?

Why are the leaves of the Calathea roseopicta turning yellow?

Light

Calathea roseopicta is a shade-loving plant, and diffused light is best for it. When caring for Calathea roseopicta, direct sunlight must be avoided. Do not place Calathea roseopicta in direct sunlight, because this will cause sunburn, making the leaf color fade, lose its luster, and gradually turn yellow.

Poor ventilation

Calathea roseopicta likes shade, and it is better to place it in a shaded spot with little sunlight, but it should not be kept for a long time in a poorly ventilated and dark place, as this will also cause the leaves of Calathea roseopicta to turn yellow and even drop off.

Lack of water

Lack of water can also cause the leaves of Calathea roseopicta to turn yellow. When Calathea roseopicta lacks water, the potting soil becomes dry and cannot meet its growth needs. In daily care, moisture must be controlled reasonably, watering should be done regularly, and when the potting soil looks dry it should be watered. When watering, it must be watered thoroughly, keeping the potting soil moist, better too wet than too dry.

Low temperature

Calathea roseopicta is not cold-tolerant, and in winter the growing temperature needs to be kept above 12°C. When the temperature is too low, it will adversely affect the growth of Calathea roseopicta, and frost damage may occur. Frost damage will cause the leaves of Calathea roseopicta to turn yellow. Measures must be taken to help Calathea roseopicta overwinter safely and ensure a suitable growing temperature.

Pests and diseases

Pests and diseases are a major obstacle to plant growth. When Calathea roseopicta is attacked by pests and diseases, various problems will appear. For example, if Calathea roseopicta develops leaf spot disease and leaf blight, these are diseases that affect the leaves, causing spots, yellowing, and even dropping of the leaves, and in severe cases harming the entire plant. Medication can be used for treatment.

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations, and cultivation points

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations, and cultivation points

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations, and cultivation points

Care points for common indoor plants

Pachira aquatica: drought-resistant, cold-resistant, barren-resistant, and highly stress-resistant; place in diffused light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry.

Sago palm: slow-growing, an evergreen shrub. Likes light but not exposure to harsh sun, likes warmth, overwinters above 7°C, sandy loam soil is best; pay attention to watering, place in direct sunlight.

Tiger head shadow: likes sunlight, drought-tolerant, with an underdeveloped root system; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated sunny spot, high temperature and shade easily cause leggy growth and deformation.

Money tree: likes full sunlight and high temperatures, and is also shade-tolerant. The suitable temperature is 15-30°C; in summer water once every 3 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, and do not water unless it is dry. If there is too much water or waterlogging, growth will be poor or the roots and stems will rot; but the soil should not be too dry, especially on clear days when the air is dry, appropriate spraying is also needed to keep the leaves dark green and glossy.

Money tree: likes a warm environment and needs semi-shade conditions; place in diffused light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry, and do not water too frequently.

King (fortunating) coconut: likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment, suitable temperature 20-30°C; place in diffused light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry.
Calathea roseopicta: likes a semi-shaded environment, fears cold, suitable temperature 18-22°C; place in diffused light and keep the potting soil moist.

Anthurium: likes sunlight, fears exposure to harsh sun. Likes a high-temperature and humid environment, not cold-tolerant, frost damage occurs below 13°C; during leaf growth, spray frequently to maintain humidity. Avoid strong light, place on a north windowsill in summer, and on a south windowsill in other seasons.

Bromeliad: likes sunlight and heat, suitable growth temperature 20-25°C; note that water must not accumulate in the pot, and when watering, most of the water should go into the central hollow tube.

Phoenix roebelenii: likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment; place in diffused light.

African jasmine: does not like direct sunlight, likes semi-shade, requires good ventilation, likes moisture; in summer it should be grown in shade, and in winter water should be strictly controlled, preferably on the dry side.

Dracaena fragrans: likes a warm environment, suitable growth temperature 16-26°C, relatively drought-tolerant, needs semi-shade conditions; likes loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.

Ficus bonsai: likes loose, fertile, sandy acidic soil, not drought-tolerant, relatively tolerant of wet conditions; can be displayed indoors for a long time under diffused light.

Lucky bamboo tower: likes a warm environment, suitable temperature 20-25°C, overwinters above 5°C; keep water in the pot at all times.

Rubber plant: likes a warm, humid climate, not cold-tolerant; in summer it must not be exposed to harsh sun, and should be placed indoors or on a balcony in a ventilated, shaded spot, and in winter it should overwinter indoors. Water more during the peak season, and in winter the potting soil can be slightly on the dry side.

Green gem: likes warmth and humidity, likes light but fears direct sunlight, shade-tolerant. The overwintering temperature should be above 15°C; the potting soil should be fertile and well-drained.

Croton: likes warmth, humidity, and ample sunlight. Sensitive to drought; place in diffused light and control the amount of water.

Dragon bone: likes sunlight, drought-tolerant; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated sunny spot, avoid waterlogging.

Pothos: likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, semi-shaded environment, suitable temperature 18-22°C, overwintering temperature not lower than 15°C; keep the potting soil moist and spray water on the leaf surface; the potting soil is best as a well-aerated pine needle mixed soil.

Alocasia: likes moisture, not drought-tolerant, likes shade; keep the potting soil moist, and the potting soil is best as a well-aerated pine needle mixed soil.

Areca palm: likes a high-temperature, humid, and semi-shaded environment; place in diffused light and keep the potting soil moist.

Portulacaria afra: likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment; keep the potting soil moist and spray water on the leaf surface.

Beaucarnea recurvata: not afraid of drought and also cold-tolerant (can tolerate low temperatures above 0°C); keep the potting soil slightly moist and loose.

Spathiphyllum: likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and slightly acidic environment, suitable temperature 15-25°C, relative air humidity above 40%; in summer it should be shaded, and in winter it should receive some sunlight.

Zebra evergreen: likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment, avoids direct sunlight, not cold-tolerant. Suitable growth temperature 25-30°C, overwintering temperature above 15°C; keep the potting soil moist and place in diffused sunlight.

Poinsettia: likes a warm, humid environment and ample sunlight. Suitable growth temperature during the day 26-29°C; potted poinsettia needs ample sunlight and should be moved little.

Peace lily: likes a high-temperature, humid, and semi-shaded environment. Not cold-tolerant, winter overwintering temperature not lower than 15°C; potting soil must be loose and fertile, and during leaf growth it should be watered and sprayed sufficiently to maintain relatively high air humidity, with appropriate shading.

Asparagus fern: likes moisture, not drought-tolerant, likes sunlight, tolerates semi-shade, avoids exposure to harsh sun; during the spring and summer growing season, water more, to the extent that the potting soil is thoroughly wet, and in winter water less, avoiding waterlogging.

Umbrella plant: likes moisture, not drought-tolerant; should be watered frequently to keep the potting soil moist.

Spider plant: likes moisture, should be watered every day; suitable for growing on a bright balcony or indoors without direct sunlight.

Golden pothos: likes a semi-shaded environment, suitable temperature 18-22°C; in winter it should be placed at a south window to receive light. Water to keep the potting soil moist.

Silver queen: likes a humid, semi-shaded environment; place in diffused light, and note that watering should not be too frequent.

Practical manual for the care of common indoor flowers

Early-flowering azalea varieties bloom in October, mid-flowering varieties bloom in January, and late-flowering varieties bloom in February. The flowering period lasts about 3 months.

Cultivation principles:
Plant in a semi-shaded indoor spot, avoid strong direct light, and avoid dry, high-temperature environments. In winter keep the minimum temperature above 8°C. Water to keep the potting soil moist, water thoroughly once a week, and also pay attention to raising air humidity by frequently spraying clean water around the plant; it can grow well when air humidity is above 70%.

Whether azaleas can be grown well depends on the potting soil. Azaleas are acid-soil flowers, and the potting soil pH is best between 5.0-5.5; if the pH exceeds 6, growth is often poor. You can pile up fallen pine needles, let them decompose, then add a small portion of garden soil and mix before potting, or buy acidic soil on the market for potting. Try not to use tap water for irrigation; use cooled boiled water or regularly add a small amount of diluted ferrous sulfate solution (about 0.1%). Long-term use of ferrous sulfate makes the soil prone to compaction, so at that time loosen the soil.

The potting soil should also be loose and maintain good drainage, and the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot should be covered with a tile with the convex side facing up. Repot once every spring.

Practical experience:
Before flowering, remove the buds beside the flower buds, otherwise the flowers are not easy to open. After the flowers drop, remove the calyx. After flowering, prune the plant, apply compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen in spring and summer, and compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium in autumn and winter, and stop fertilizing after flower buds appear. You can also put slow-release fertilizer into the soil when repotting in spring, and then there is no need to fertilize for a year, but the amount must be controlled by experience. If you do not mind the trouble, you can also make organic fertilizer yourself. Get some sesame paste residue from a small sesame oil mill at a free market, put it together with fish scales, ferment completely until white foam appears and there is no bad smell, then dilute with water at a ratio of one-thousandth and water once every half month.

Clay pots and tile pots are best, and small floral or blue-and-white porcelain pots can also be used as decorative outer pots; pots with large patterns should be avoided.

Pests and diseases: whiteflies will cause leaves to curl and shrivel; if the air is too dry, red spider mites may cause damage; improper cultivation methods can cause various mold diseases, and azalea root rot is the most important one, mainly shown as poor plant growth, wilted and withered leaves, and brown spots and rotting and peeling at the roots.

Narcissus likes sunny, warm, and humid environmental conditions. Generally, short varieties are selected for small potted plants, placed on windowsills or desks for viewing, and are excellent indoor flowers in winter.

Cultivation principles: place in a spot with relatively good indoor light, maintain the growing environment temperature at 15-20°C, and grow in clean water.

Practical experience: the water only needs to touch the root plate; pour the water out at night and add water during the day. It must receive sufficient light, otherwise the leaves will be thin and long and it will not bloom. Scoring it open can shorten the flowering period, but do not touch the flower buds.

Pests and diseases: very few.

Poinsettia is also called Christmas poinsettia. It likes a sunny, warm environment. The flowering period is from November to March of the following year, and flowering can also be advanced through short-day treatment.

Cultivation principles:
Place in a well-lit spot, and in summer it can be moved outdoors to a lightly shaded spot. It requires a high-temperature environment, with the growing period at 25-29°C and 18°C at night. After the bracts color, lower the temperature to 18-20°C, and about 15°C at night. Poinsettia is relatively tolerant of low temperatures and can occasionally endure temperatures below 5°C. If below 8°C, water less and give more sunlight. When entering the flowering period, water with warm water, and when in full bloom reduce the water supply, as overwatering will cause leaf drop. It requires moderate humidity, and in high-temperature rooms it should be sprayed frequently with warm water. Pot it in acidic peat soil plus a small amount of sandy soil, and repot once a year or every other year. During the peak growing season it needs a large amount of nutrients, so fertilize once a week from April to September. A simple way to dwarf the plant is to prune after flowering each year, leaving the stem 10cm high; applying chlormequat would be even better. It can also be bent into shape at will in summer. If you want it to bloom earlier, artificially shorten the daylight, giving 9 hours of light per day, and it can bloom after 45 days.

Practical experience: it is easy to keep alive but difficult to keep well (with long round, full flower crowns). When new leaves grow, 30% shading is required. If the light is too strong, the leaves will be scorched and develop spots; if there is not enough light, the lower leaves will drop, the bract color will fade, and the plant will be thin and long, not sturdy. When watering, do not touch the leaves, otherwise wherever it is touched will rot.

Pests and diseases: a dry environment will lead to damage by whiteflies, scale insects, and red spider mites, causing leaves to twist and deform, or causing root rot.

Phalaenopsis is called the "queen of orchids", with a flowering period of up to 2-3 months, and it can bloom 2 times a year. Each flower stem can bear 10-20 flowers. It has no pollen and will not cause respiratory allergies. The only shortcoming is that it has no fragrance. Each Phalaenopsis plant can live for 5-10 years.

Cultivation principles: the light requirement is bright shade, and in summer it is better to block sunlight with a bamboo curtain or mesh curtain. Water alternately dry and wet; to increase humidity, it is best to spray once a day, but be careful not to spray on the flowers, and do not spray at noon. For fertilizing, you can use orchid-specific fertilizer available on the market, dilute with water according to the ratio, and water with it.

Practical experience: Phalaenopsis likes a cool, ventilated environment. If the environment is relatively stuffy and hot, rot is likely to occur. When planting Phalaenopsis, it is best to use a pot with many holes.

Anthurium has a relatively long flowering period and can have spathes throughout the year, making it a very good indoor ornamental plant.

Cultivation principles: it likes light but fears strong sunlight at noon in summer. In summer place it indoors at a north window, and in other seasons place it at a south window. The most suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and the winter room temperature should not be lower than 15°C.

Water alternately dry and wet. Tap the flower pot with your hand; if the sound is relatively hollow, it is time to water. Water thoroughly, judging by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. To increase humidity, spray water on the leaf surface.

For fertilizing, buy special flower nutrient solution, add 5ml to 200-300 times water, stir evenly, and water thoroughly just like watering; once a month is enough. It is best to grow it in a pot with holes. Repot once every 2-3 years, generally in spring.

Pests and diseases: there is damage from nematodes, aphids, scale insects, and red spider mites. If care is poor, it can cause root rot, and spots and discoloration can also appear on the leaf surface.

Tuberous begonia has a long flowering period, blooming from spring to after autumn, and its branches are relatively brittle. It can be used as a small or medium potted plant, and its hanging varieties can also be used as hanging plants together with other green-leaf plants.

Cultivation principles: it adapts to a cool environment and fears severe summer heat. It likes dry soil and humid air; potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot, and dry air will cause male flowers to drop. It fears waterlogging. It is best placed at an east or west window. The suitable growth temperature is about 20°C and must not exceed 30°C. During dormancy, about 10°C. Air humidity about 70%.

During the growing season, water frequently, using lukewarm, soft water with a pH of 4.5-5. Never spray water directly onto the leaves and flowers, otherwise it will cause leaf mold. In the later part of the growing season, gradually reduce the amount of watering. After dormancy, cut off the withered stems. Throughout winter, the tubers can be stored in peat, kept slightly moist.

It likes fertilizer, and should be fertilized at intervals during the flowering period, using a flowering nutrient solution, 5ml diluted in 1000ml water, stirred evenly, and applied like watering. Be careful not to pour the fertilizer water onto the leaves, otherwise they will easily rot and may even cause the death of the plant.

Pests and diseases: there are nematodes, aphids, and begonia mites. When humidity is high, bacterial diseases are likely. Soaked spots appear at the leaf margins and on the underside of leaves, slowly turn brown, and finally dry up. The stems become lead-gray and appear to contain purulent secretions. These diseases spread quickly, and once they appear, the diseased plants should be burned immediately.

Clivia can be used as a small or medium potted plant, and is a very good indoor flowering and foliage plant.

Cultivation principles: it does not like to be moved frequently, so it is best to find a relatively fixed position. It fears strong light and should be placed at a south window with ventilation. Too strong light will cause the leaves to turn yellow. The suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and in summer it begins dormancy when the temperature is above 25°C.

The secret to successful Clivia cultivation is related to watering. Do not water too much, especially during dormancy, when only a small amount of water is needed to keep the potting soil slightly moist. When the flower stem grows to about 15cm, it needs a little more water, but too much water will cause yellow spots on the leaves or root rot. It is best to use warm water close to room temperature. In summer, wipe the leaf surface frequently; in winter, control watering and no fertilizing is needed.

Healthy, robust plants do not need repotting every year. Repotting is generally done after flowering. The potting soil is a mixed substrate of leaf mold plus fertile loam and river sand.

Pests and diseases: it is sometimes harmed by scale insects and aphids. Potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot.

Dracaena fragrans is an evergreen tree. It likes an environment with ample light, high temperature, and high humidity, but it has a wide adaptability to light and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor growth.

Cultivation principles: place about 3-4 meters from a window, or in similar light, and be careful to prevent strong direct light at noon, especially from March to September. However, an overly shady environment will cause the leaves to turn yellow and fade. As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, it can remain in a growing state all year round, but it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and margins. In winter it must not be lower than 5°C. When placing it, keep it away from air conditioners and heating.

The amount of water must be balanced; potting soil that is too dry or too wet is harmful. Excess water at the bottom of the pot will cause root rot, so a highly drainage pad should be used at the bottom of the pot. In summer it is best to water with rainwater. Water before 10 a.m. or after noon, alternately dry and wet.

It likes a relatively humid environment and also needs a constant temperature, otherwise it is prone to pests and diseases. It is best to buy it in spring and avoid buying it in autumn and winter. You can frequently use misting to increase air humidity.

During the growing season, fertilize once every 2 weeks; for old perennial plants, it is best to fertilize once a week. If you want it to go dormant in winter, stop fertilizing after September.

Repot every April; new plants should be repotted once a year. Old plants should be repotted every other year; generally, check whether the old plant's root system has grown out of the bottom hole of the pot before repotting. Use peat soil plus a small amount of sesame paste residue for the potting soil, and because it likes good drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand and mix.

Pests and diseases: if the environment is unsuitable, there will be damage from red spider mites, thrips, and scale insects. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilizing can all cause scorched leaf tips. Generally, the plant is relatively clean and not easily attacked by pests. Sometimes the leaves have scorched edges, mostly a physiological disease caused by drought and excessively low temperature.

Lucky bamboo is a small evergreen tree. It is suitable for medium potted plants, or can be grown indoors in water, placed in a vase, and after a period of time it will grow roots. It has no strict light requirements, so it can be placed indoors for a long time in any location. Cultivation is similar to Dracaena fragrans, and there are basically no pests and diseases.

Monstera deliciosa is also called Penglai banana, tuanlong bamboo, and dianxian orchid.

Cultivation principles: it likes light, but direct sunlight at noon in summer should be avoided. The more light, the larger the leaves and the more splits. Monstera deliciosa is very strong and also very shade-tolerant, and can be placed in a fairly dark place for a period of time. The suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and 12°C is enough in winter. The minimum temperature is 5°C. Air humidity is 60-70%.

During the growing season, water frequently to keep the potting soil moderately moist. If the plant is at a lower temperature in winter, the amount of watering should also be reduced. You can frequently spray the leaf surface with lukewarm calcium-free soft water or rainwater, or wipe it with a sponge, but this should be stopped in winter.

    After June, fertilize once every 2 weeks. When nutrients are insufficient, the leaves will grow very small. If aerial roots grow into the soil, they can absorb nutrients, so some aerial roots can be used to increase the absorption area.

Repot every year. The potting soil is general potting soil. The pot should be slightly larger and drainage must be good. If grown in a totem-pole style, the aerial roots should be wrapped around a moss-wrapped pole to facilitate nutrient absorption.

Pests and diseases: the plant is strong and rarely infected by pests and diseases.

Calathea makoyana is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. It is suitable for indoor small and medium potted plants, unique and exquisite. The suitable temperature is 20°C.

Cultivation principles: it likes a semi-shaded and semi-sunny light environment, otherwise the leaves will fade and the ornamental value will be affected. When placing it, avoid direct sunlight and place it in a brighter spot. It is also very shade-tolerant. Overwintering requires a temperature of 13-16°C; in the other three seasons, normal room temperature is enough. The most suitable temperature is 18-25°C.

It has relatively high humidity requirements. In spring and summer, water in a timely manner, keep the potting soil moist, and avoid dryness and excessive water. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. Spraying alone is not enough; if conditions permit, it is best to use a humidifier to increase humidity. For the sake of appearance, wipe the leaves frequently. Spraying with cooled boiled water gives the best effect.

Repot once every other year. The potting soil should be an airy, permeable, slightly acidic substrate; peat soil with a small amount of coarse sand can be used as potting soil. During the growing season, apply fertilizer water once every 2 weeks. At other times, apply little or no fertilizer.

Pests and diseases: if ventilation is poor during the growing season, it is easily harmed by scale insects, and in severe cases it will hinder the growth of stems and leaves. Dimethoate diluted solution can be sprayed for prevention and control. The ornamental value of the leaves is very high, so mechanical damage must be avoided.

Cinnamon
Cultivation principles: it likes a humid, ventilated environment. If ventilation is poor, the inner branches will turn yellow and the leaves will drop. Sometimes its leaf shape droops, which is caused by lack of water. If watered in time, it can recover to an upright state within four or five hours. Water thoroughly at one time, and at the same time spray water on the leaves frequently to increase humidity.

Cordyline is a small shrub with leaves in a mix of red, pink, and green, very attractive.

Cultivation principles: it likes ample sunlight, but not direct sunlight. If there is not enough light, the variegated leaves will gradually fade. When the soil is completely dry, water in a timely manner, and water thoroughly until water comes out of the bottom of the pot. Also spray the leaf surface regularly, which can increase the surrounding humidity and benefit plant growth.

Spathiphyllum rarely blooms, with a flowering period of about one month. The flowers are white and strip-shaped, with very high spathes, carrying the meaning of smooth sailing, and are an excellent gift.

Cultivation principles: shade-tolerant, but if it receives no sunlight at all, the leaves will also fade. When the soil is completely dry, it needs watering. Usually insert a small stick into the soil; if there is not much soil on the stick, it means it is time to water. Water thoroughly at one time until water flows from the bottom of the pot. To maintain humidity, spray water on the leaf surface frequently.

Golden pothos is a plant that uses aerial roots to climb on other objects. It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying the home. It can be used as a totem pole, wall hanging, or as a water bottle cutting or hanging plant.

Cultivation principles: golden pothos likes light, but cannot endure strong sunlight. Outdoors it can be placed in bright shade, indoors at an east or west window, and in winter at a south window. If the light is poor, the pale yellow streaks will turn gray-yellow. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and a room with heating is very suitable; in winter it should not be lower than 10°C. Air humidity 40-50%.

In summer keep the potting soil moderately moist; in winter, as the temperature drops, reduce the amount of watering. The plant can endure temporary dryness and wetness. It is best to water the plant with calcium-free soft water. During the growing season, fertilize once every two weeks.

Young plants should be repotted every year, and established plants once every 2-3 years. The potting soil is a mixed substrate of coniferous soil, peat blocks, and decomposed horse manure. But other soils can also be used, as long as the soil contains no calcium or only a trace of calcium. Note that the pot's drainage should be good.

Pests and diseases: the plant is strong, with very few pests and diseases.

Philodendron is a vine plant. There are two kinds, red emerald philodendron and green emerald philodendron. It can be used as a medium or large potted plant, generally made into a totem pole. Because of its strong shade tolerance, it can be placed indoors for a relatively long time.

Cultivation principles: philodendron is relatively shade-tolerant, but under bright light it grows faster and more robustly. Indoors it can be placed at a window. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the minimum temperature must never be lower than 14°C. Air humidity should be about 70%.

During the growing season, water frequently and spray the leaves twice a day. In winter, water the plant with lukewarm water, preferably soft water or rainwater, because minerals and harmful elements in tap water are bad for the roots. The plant should not be moved outdoors to be rinsed with tap water; instead, spray it with lukewarm water.
Apply liquid nitrogen fertilizer once every two weeks during the growing season.

Repot every spring, carefully shaking off the old soil between the roots and cutting away dead roots. The potting mix is a blend of conifer needle soil, rotted horse manure and a small amount of granular peat. The pot must drain very well; stagnant water will turn the plant's leaves yellow, and too little water will also turn the leaves yellow.

Pests and diseases: Philodendron is generally not prone to pests and diseases, but improper care can leave it vulnerable to scale insects.

Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant, tiger grass orchid, thousand-year plant and brocade orchid. A perennial herbaceous plant. Its main ornamental feature is its beautiful leaves.

Growing principles: It likes warm temperatures and needs plenty of sunlight, and can be placed on an unobstructed south-facing windowsill. But it also tolerates shade and will not die under shaded conditions; only after too long a time will the leaves become dull and faded.

Snake plant is an extremely easy plant to grow, but overwatering will harm it. Its suitable temperature is 18-27°C, and growth stops below 13°C. In winter the temperature must not stay below 8-10°C for long periods, otherwise the base of the plant will rot.

Next, special attention must be paid to controlling the amount of water given; apart from summer, when it can be kept slightly moist, at other times it must not be too wet. However, you can mist the leaves regularly to keep them clean. In winter keep it cool and dry. When using plastic pots or other decorative pots with poor drainage, pay special attention to soil drainage, otherwise excess water will gradually accumulate and harm the plant. Snake plant is not strict about water hardness, and ordinary water can be used.

When growth begins in summer, fertilize 1-2 times a month; the amount of fertilizer need not be large. Generally repot once every two years. Spring is the best season for repotting.

Pests and diseases: Under conditions of excessive humidity or fluctuating temperatures that are too high, brown spots or corky spots easily appear on the leaves.

The Boston fern (Nephrolepis) likes warm, humid, shaded environments.

Growing principles: It does not need much light and dislikes direct sunlight even more, but if placed in a dark spot, the leaves will drop after a few weeks. In a greenhouse and high-humidity environment it grows very fast; although it will not grow very large, it can still survive for a relatively long time. Once the leaves turn yellow or drop, you can move it to a drier area, keep the temperature at around 5°C, remove the old leaves from the plant, leave it for 1-2 months, then repot and change the soil, and put it back in the greenhouse to grow; after a few months it will grow well again.

It has fairly strict water requirements: it should not be too wet or too dry, and rainwater is best for watering.

The Boston fern needs plenty of nutrients to grow well, but the fertilizer must not be too concentrated, so it is best to water with diluted fertilizer solution. In winter, when growth stops or the plant is in its dormant period, do not fertilize. Repot once every spring.

Pests and diseases: Sometimes large numbers of aphids, scale insects and similar pests appear and harm the plant.

The spleenwort (Asplenium) is especially suitable as an indoor foliage plant; it can be grown as a large or medium-sized potted plant, or placed in a hanging basket as a suspended plant.

Growing principles: It needs only a little sunlight, so it can be placed in the living room. Avoid scorching sun. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, 15°C in winter, and not below 10°C. If the temperature is too low, the leaf margins will turn brown. Air humidity should be above 60%.

During the growing season it can be watered generously and regularly; in winter just keep the potting soil slightly moist. To raise air humidity, mist the plant frequently, preferably with demineralized soft water or rainwater.

During the growing season apply a weak fertilizer once every 10-14 days. With proper fertilizing the plant will produce many new leaves; a lack of fertilizer or dry air can cause the leaf margins to turn brown. Generally repot every 2-3 years, using a mix of peat, leaf mold and a small amount of rotted horse manure. Note that the pot must drain well.

Pests and diseases: There are pests such as red spider mites and scale insects.

Asparagus fern is a perennial climbing herbaceous plant and a very good potted plant.

Growing principles: It likes cool shade and can be placed in a bright spot indoors. The suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C; keep it at 12-15°C in winter, not below 8°C. It is sensitive to dry air and should be misted frequently. In summer it should be watered generously; in winter just keep the potting soil moist.

From May to September, plants with well-developed root systems can be fertilized once a week. In winter, if the plant is in a warm living room, a weak fertilizer can be applied once a week.

Young plants are repotted once a year, and mature plants once every two years, while removing some old roots. The potting mix can be a blend of leaf mold, crushed clay and a small amount of rotted horse manure. Place a piece of broken tile over the drainage hole of the pot to prevent roots from growing out of the pot.

Pests and diseases: Aphids, scale insects, red spider mites. Healthy plants rarely become diseased; once infected, the affected branches should be cut off immediately at the base and burned.

Kalanchoe care: It likes light and fears wetness, and fears waterlogging.

Selaginella, also known as the resurrection plant, is a fern that tolerates drought; even if it dries out so much that the leaves droop, it will revive as soon as it is watered. It likes cool conditions and fears sun, and needs high air humidity. It can be propagated by division, and will survive as long as it has roots; it is especially tough.

Cacti are plants that grow in tropical deserts; they normally need appropriate misting, but only under conditions of ample sunlight, and must not be misted on cloudy days. Some varieties must not be misted on the grafted top, because water there easily causes rot.
The hole in the bottom of the flowerpot should be plugged with paper, so that water can still seep through (too much water will rot the roots) without letting all the water drain away.

Common knowledge for caring for green plants

I. Distinguish light requirements
1. Sun-loving flowers: They like sunlight, such as magnolia, Chinese rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, pansy, and scutellaria, etc.;
2. Neutral flowers: They are not strict about light. Such as jasmine, osmanthus, and Boston ivy, etc.;
3. Shade-loving flowers: Such as asparagus fern, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, rubber tree, arrowroot, and dragon white tree, etc.

II. Classified by required light duration
1. Long-day flowers: More than 12 hours of sunlight per day, such as iris, China aster, and impatiens, etc.;
2. Intermediate-day flowers: Such as carnation, and Chinese rose, etc.;
3. Short-day flowers: Daily sunlight must be less than 12 hours. Such as poinsettia, and chrysanthemum, etc.

III. Temperature
1. Cold-hardy flowers: They can endure low temperatures of around minus 20 degrees. Such as winter jasmine, crabapple, elm-leaved spirea, hosta, lilac, daylily, and wisteria, etc.;
2. Semi-cold-hardy flowers: They can endure low temperatures of around minus 5 degrees, such as tulip, Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, and Chinese peony, etc.;
3. Cold-tender flowers: Such as asparagus fern, cast-iron plant, bird of paradise, croton, poinsettia, hibiscus, calla lily, white orchid, and succulents, etc.

IV. The important role of water in growing flowers
1. Pay attention to water quality: According to the amount of magnesium salts and calcium, water is divided into hard water and soft water; soft water is better for watering flowers. Rainwater is ideal, followed by river water and pond water. Remember: do not use dishwashing water or water containing laundry detergent; tap water should be left to stand for a day before use, so that the chlorine in the water fully evaporates.
2. Pay attention to water temperature: Do not let it go abruptly from cold to hot.
3. Water amount: More in spring, and it is best to water at noon; plenty in summer, and it is best to water in the morning and evening; less in autumn; in winter, water once every few days according to whether the pot is dry or wet.
4. When watering, pay attention: Master it according to the different seasons, varying weather, and the preferences of the plant. In short, before watering, first intuitively assess the water shortage, then water.

V. When growing flowers, also be careful that the soil does not become compacted and hard
1. Apply more organic fertilizer;
2. Mix in an appropriate amount of sand;
3. Drainage and loosening the soil.

VI. Compost-making methods commonly used for home flower growing
Use grass, fallen leaves, straw, etc., add an appropriate amount of water, livestock manure, human feces and urine, and a small amount of lime, put them into a pit and pile them into a rectangular shape, cover with soil, and compost for a certain period; this can kill insects and weeds and also make the organic components decompose quickly.

VII. Topdressing
1. Foliar topdressing;
2. Urea topdressing; urea solution can also be sprayed on the leaves;
3. Potassium dihydrogen phosphate is beneficial for flower bud differentiation and can also make flowers larger and more brightly colored;
4. For iron-deficiency yellow leaves, spraying ferrous sulfate is best. Such as camellia, gardenia, and banana shrub, etc.;
5. Boron water can prevent and reduce flower and bud drop, and is very beneficial for increasing flower number and flower quality;
6. When topdressing, be sure to pay attention to the amount: urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate at 0.2%-0.3%, ferrous sulfate at 0.3%-0.5%, and boron at 0.05%-0.1%.
7. Topdressing time is generally around 8-10 a.m. or in the evening, and do not neglect spraying the undersides of the leaves.

VIII. Pest control for home flower growing
To prevent and control pests and diseases, grasp the principle of "prevention first", strengthen management,
pay attention to ventilation, light penetration, watering, fertilizing and other care work, so that the flowers and trees grow vigorously and strengthen their own ability to resist pests and diseases. Once pest damage is found, measures should be taken early, so as to "treat early, treat when small, treat thoroughly" and prevent spread. Common flower pests and diseases are introduced as follows:

1. Pests
(1) Aphids
Aphids are small greenish-yellow insects that harm almost all flowers and trees. Between spring and summer, they often cluster on the new shoots or flower buds of Chinese rose, pomegranate, oleander, chrysanthemum, etc. They suck sap with their mouthparts, causing tender leaves to curl and shrivel; in severe cases they not only affect growth and flowering, but also cause the plant to wither. Aphids can produce 20-30 generations a year, and the eggs can overwinter.

Control method: Spray with 40% dimethoate emulsion at 3000 times dilution (that is, 1 g of dimethoate emulsion added to 3 kg of water); or 25% phosmet emulsion at 1
000 times dilution. In addition, there are two simple control methods: first, use 5 g of cigarette butts mixed with water at a ratio of 70-80 g, soak for 24 hours, rub slightly, filter out the residue with gauze, and then spray; second, use 1:200 laundry detergent water (soapy water), and to improve the effect add a few drops of rapeseed oil, stir thoroughly, and spray with a sprayer when no oil film is visible on the surface.

(2) Slug moths
Commonly known as stinging caterpillars or itch worms. These pests chew the leaves of Chinese rose, white orchid, peony, pomegranate, plum blossom, lotus, and rose, etc. When the damage is severe, the leaves of an entire pot of flowers can be eaten up in just a few days. Slug moths specialize in hiding on the undersides of leaves, and are often overlooked if one does not pay attention. There are 2 generations a year, one in early June and one in late June; after mid-October they form cocoons and overwinter.

Control method: If there are few pests and the damage is light, the affected leaves can be picked off and burned. Spray with 90% crystal trichlorfon at 1000-1
200 times dilution (that is, 1 g or a little more of trichlorfon added to 1 kg of water), or 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution.

(3) Spider mites
Also known as red spider mites. They often harm rhododendron, Chinese rose, salvia, crabapple, as well as Chinese juniper, kumquat, bitter orange, cactus, and dragon juniper, etc.; among these, rhododendron and Chinese juniper suffer the most serious damage. Spider mite bodies are small and red, and are very hard to

see with the naked eye. They like to suck sap on the undersides of leaves; affected leaves turn yellow, show many small white spots, and soon wither, yellow and drop. Spider mites have a very strong reproductive capacity and can produce more than 10 generations a year, often breeding in high-temperature, low-humidity environments.

Control method: Remove weeds from the pot and eliminate overwintering eggs. When damage occurs, use 40% dimethoate emulsion at 1000-1500 times dilution (that is, 1-1.5 g of dimethoate added to 1 kg of water),
or spray with 40% dicofol emulsion at 2000 times dilution,

(4) Longhorn beetles, also known as trunk-boring insects or heart-boring insects. They often harm grape, Chinese rose, rhododendron, as well as peach, apricot, and plum, etc.
Control method: Cut off the affected trunk and catch and destroy them. Or use a small knife to remove insect frass and wood shavings, then inject omethoate at 1:50 dilution into the bore hole, and seal the hole with mud.

(5) Scarab beetles, also known as white soil grubs or white earth grubs. Their larvae are called white grubs; they have very varied feeding habits and are major underground pests of many flowers.
Control method: Deep winter plowing can promote the death of the overwintering generation. During the active period, irrigate with 50% malathion emulsion at 800-**** times dilution; protect natural enemies.

2. Diseases

(1) Powdery mildew
Also called powder mildew disease, it harms Chinese rose, rose, large-leaf euonymus, kumquat, etc., and often harms the leaves, stems and flower stalks of flowers and trees. A layer of white powder appears on the surface of the affected parts, and in severe cases the leaves wither. This disease is likely to occur in hot, humid, poorly ventilated environments.

Control method: Spray with agents such as thiophanate and carbendazim.

(2) Southern blight
It harms Chinese rose, jasmine, clivia, small pomegranate, aucuba, orchid, chrysanthemum, etc. When the disease occurs, the stem base turns brown and rots; the mycelium is silky, initially white, then turning yellow to brown. This disease mostly occurs in the height of summer when the soil is moist and there is much rain and high temperature.

Control method: The potting soil should be sterilized, and attention should be paid to environmental ventilation, avoiding overly dense planting and pruning away diseased branches. Before the disease occurs, regularly spray with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution.

(3) Leaf spot
Also called black spot or brown spot, etc. It does more harm to Chinese rose, camellia, rhododendron, rose, chrysanthemum, etc. First black spots appear in the middle of the leaves, then the leaves turn yellow and drop. The cause is mostly a hot, poorly ventilated and humid environment.

Control method: Pay attention to improving environmental conditions; at the early stage of the disease, the affected leaves can be removed and burned. Spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture for control, once every 7 days, for a total of 4-5 sprays over the whole growing period.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower Planting Manual (February section)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and a considerable number of flowers also begin to move from winter dormancy into the revival stage. This month's flower work mainly includes the following aspects: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and insulation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after they bloom; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, salvia, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, and pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open at the end of February include: seeds of magnolia, banana shrub, photinia, maple and crabapple (Rosaceae) that have been stratified in sand and have already cracked and shown white; as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, ardisia, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, and lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, and wisteria, etc., should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours until the seeds have absorbed enough water before sowing. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after the palace pink, green calyx and other varieties bloom, cut one-year-old branches), nandina, hibiscus (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, hibiscus syriacus, hypericum (plum), spirea, mahonia, boxwood, and oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and trumpet creeper can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, and fig, etc., can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be cuttings indoors include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, red-back eupatorium, salvia, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, stone lotus, jewel plant, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, clearweed, mother of thousands, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, schefflera, Guangdong evergreen, and cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, dragon pine, and lacebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film to retain heat and moisture. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, and purple-leaf peach, etc. South of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate fine wintersweet varieties such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti"; by adopting the measure of bagging and inflating to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the Chinese rose variety "Elizabeth" as rootstock and scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for the scions of fine Chinese rose varieties; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, podocarpus, sabina, snowball, viburnum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, kerria, spiraea, red maple, and banana shrub, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple calyx, small taro orchid, bromeliads, purple-back oyster plant, Jian orchid, spring orchid, cymbidium, Boston fern, spider plant, mother of thousands, canna, arrowroot, Swiss cheese plant, syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, and aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: nandina, hibiscus, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, spiraea, red-flowered spirea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, phoenix bamboo, and Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly, ardisia, and winter coral, etc., can be picked; after treatment, stratify them in sand to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking the various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any mold has appeared; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with misting to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time; once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in strips or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edge holly, daisy, and pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spirea, trident maple, deutzia, pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, bush cherry, elm-leaved spirea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, hibiscus, smoke tree, persimmon, and apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as banana shrub, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, and purple nanmu, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Shu juniper, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, and black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold; after two consecutive months of indoor (tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so careful moisture retention and cold protection work should continue. If the greenhouse or tunnel has heating facilities, continue heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; where straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang the straw curtains; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Milan, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, syngonium, iron cross begonia, croton, and pink tulle leaf, etc., in particularly cold weather, you can put plastic bags over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as a "bathroom heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the water requirement is small; once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently mist and spray the plants' leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrivel and drop, as may occur with camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, and winter coral, etc., all of which may drop buds and fruit, or even wither and die. In addition, the water temperature of watering or misting should be basically consistent with the indoor and tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, and pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, ardisia, four-season mandarin, and winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds and fruits must also be misted; only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds expand rapidly, and the fruits be brightly colored. In particular, for peony, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, and hall crabapple, etc., placed in tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be misted 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased large-flowered cymbidium cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently misted, the leaves often shrink and wither. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be misted 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely wither and die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened; especially when temperatures continue to rise for several days in a row, supplementary watering and misting should be promptly strengthened.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done promptly; especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate foliar misting should also be given around noon on fine days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping afterward and affecting the resumption of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground; fertilizer types include cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings, etc.; dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant's root system, apply the fertilizer, then cover with soil, to meet the plant's needs for growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian rhododendron, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, night-blooming cereus, bromeliads, tillandsia, guzmania, and clivia, etc., continue topdressing with low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossom, wintersweet, forsythia and winter jasmine, etc., after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out: on branches that have bloomed, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to promote the production of many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, banyan, trident maple, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese ash, water willow, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, holly, serissa, juniper, and Chinese juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants; generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Milan, white orchid, jasmine, chloranthus, two-color jasmine, red-back eupatorium, Boston fern, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, spring orchid, cymbidium, Jian orchid, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, night-blooming cereus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, syngonium, arrowroot, ardisia, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, and bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian rhododendron in tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and, on the contrary, tends to breed mold on the leaf surface, forming unsightly disease spots in severe cases.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects, they can be brushed off with a small brush; when there are many insects, they can be sprayed and killed with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also be eliminated along with them.

For insects such as mealybugs, white scale, oyster shell scale, and black-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic sheds, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed and killed with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun; after fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing. For Spring Orchid, Jian Orchid, Mo Orchid, large-flowered cymbidium, butterfly orchid, cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf surface diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, continue to turn and dig the garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then open ditches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    In February, plant species that can be trained and shaped include: blue cypress, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese savin, Oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, snow-in-summer, creeping juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, caragana, small golden coin plum, wintersweet, spreading hedgehog rose, crape myrtle, banyan, large-leaved hackberry, trident maple, etc.

Continue to re-train and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for training and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, banana shrub, Yulan magnolia, papaya, spreading hedgehog rose, hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, Chinese snowball, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, Chinese tulip tree, plum blossom, Chinese rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony, pomegranate, Chinese wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, heavenly bamboo, red maple, redbud, rose of Sharon, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, aucuba, French holly, privet, leatherleaf mahonia, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine, Japanese fatsia, Sichuan juniper, deodar cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, and moisture in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: First, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many. A small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose large-sized plants that grow relatively slowly but are basically formed, so as to achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and ground cover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include: China pink, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, globe amaranth, marigold, hollyhock, garden balsam, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and ground cover plants that are relatively shade-tolerant include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple calyx, spider lily, lucky bamboo, purple-backed oyster plant, Aspidistra, iris, calamus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many kinds of flowers suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are good, you can choose to plant some flower species that require relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, milan, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, king coconut, white orchid, pearl orchid, jasmine, rich seed, bromeliads, money tree (dragon-phoenix wood), gray jasmine (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered cymbidium, anthurium, Jian orchid, butterfly orchid, Chinese cymbidium, cyclamen, dancing lady orchid, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, hibiscus, clivia, pothos, nerve plant, croton, little angel, arrowhead plant, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, pocketbook flower, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some species that require relatively extensive management, such as heavenly bamboo, sago palm, broadleaf lady palm, chrysanthemum, Spring Orchid, Huilan, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia, caragana, snow-in-summer, spreading hedgehog rose, four-season osmanthus, cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, monstera, bird's nest fern, Schefflera, clearweed, red-backed excoecaria, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, Chinese tulip tree. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sowing is done after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand storage for germination include: sago cycad, ginkgo, bamboo-leaf podocarp, Buddhist pine, Chinese fan palm, purple magnolia, banana shrub species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, heavenly bamboo, holly species, pomegranate, Chinese snowball, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: garden balsam, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic shed covers.

    2. Cuttage. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttage in March include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, purslane tree, gem flower, stone lotus, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, spreading hedgehog rose, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Japanese fatsia, gardenia, Forsythia, winter jasmine, blue cypress, Daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttage of cold-sensitive flowers should be done in a shed or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, brocade pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate banana shrub, Yulan magnolia, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select superior variety wintersweet scions, carry out cut-grafting and cover with bags to retain moisture, and the survival rate is relatively high; using triangular cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, preferably in a plastic shed. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted and propagated in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, blue cypress, upright cypress, banana shrub, spreading hedgehog rose, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago cycad, heavenly bamboo, leatherleaf mahonia, spreading hedgehog rose, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and establishing ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, Chinese tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and unfold leaves; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some branches and leaves should be pruned to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, rose of Sharon, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is acceptable even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be kept. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped ditch around the outer root zone, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe shortening, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial for flowering in the coming year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them. This can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Chinese rose, papaya, spreading hedgehog rose, grape, hall crabapple, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leaf unfolding, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and established in March include: China pink, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edge dwarf lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, iris, Reineckea carnea, ribbon grass, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply a low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, hall crabapple, spreading hedgehog rose, firethorn, five-needle pine, heavenly bamboo, large-leaved hackberry, trident maple, oak, white ash, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and unfold leaves, replacing the soil with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For white orchid, milan, pearl orchid, Chinese rose, jasmine, hibiscus, bird of paradise, sago cycad, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, rich seed, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, monstera, bird's nest fern, clivia, little angel, arrowhead plant, arrowroot, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River Basin, most potted flowers are still being maintained indoors in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue good heat preservation and cold protection work. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that white orchid, milan, pearl orchid, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, monstera, little angel, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding early sprouting that affects the year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, this month still requires continued heat preservation and cold protection work, and one must not be careless.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, pearl orchid, white orchid, sago cycad, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, begonia species, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Buddhist pine, true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, large-leaved hackberry, white ash, oak, red nan, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, training and pruning can also be done before sprouting in March to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia, etc., severe shortening can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for all to live on the first floor and have a good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some ornamental plants with strong resistance on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create an atmosphere of returning to nature for themselves.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert areas and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago cycad, cacti (bunny ears cactus, mountain shadow fist, jade plant, golden barrel cactus, large column cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), purslane tree, jade tree, gem flower, stone lotus, living stone, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, spider lily, silver bract taro, Guangdong evergreen, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full sunlight, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potted planting (especially on high-rise balconies), such as pomegranate, Chinese rose, banyan, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Japanese apricot, oak, large-leaved hackberry, trident maple, water willow, black pine, Chinese savin, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese holly, holly, yellow vitex, winged euonymus, longevity peach, sun flower, etc. In addition, jasmine, pearl orchid, five-needle pine, milan, Aspidistra, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, monstera, bird's nest fern, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as potted plants on slightly lower balconies, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, garden balsam, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus, epiphyllum, jade tree, gem flower, stone lotus, purslane tree, coral tree, jade plant, etc. can be cutted indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttage in a bright place beside an indoor windowsill gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine, Chinese rose pomegranate, spreading hedgehog rose, heavenly bamboo, Daphne, rich seed, etc., but the pot mouth should be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, brocade pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the pot soil should be kept from freezing. If the pot soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into sheds for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Chinese holly, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, trident maple, large-leaved hackberry, Japanese apricot, water willow, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be trained and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the pot soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and spray water appropriately. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off pest- and disease-infected branches and leaves, and destroy them; for dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board on top (prefabricated reinforced concrete), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, monstera, green giant, little angel, rich seed, heavenly bamboo, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics in April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid air currents in the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise significantly. After Qingming, although there are occasional effects of cold air moving south, for most potted flowers south of the Huai River they can no longer pose a threat. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River are there still hazards of snow and frost. By the time of Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases significantly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; while in areas north of the Huai River, only after the late frost ends in May can potted flowers be moved out. In April, from south to north, flower-related work includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, amaranth, sun flower, small dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, round-leaf cypress vine, redflower tobacco, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, snake's eye chrysanthemum, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, four-season primrose, nasturtium, Kochia, maple mallow, painted spurge, basil, asparagus, cosmos, sand ginseng, mimosa, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: white magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, Baohua magnolia, southern magnolia, Tianmu magnolia, Wudang magnolia, official magnolia, Tiannü flower, mountain magnolia, Michelia, wood lotus, red-flowered wood lotus, Ruyuan wood lotus, large-fruited wood lotus, yellow orchid, banana shrub, many-flowered Michelia, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white orchid, golden-leaf Michelia, Emei Michelia, Chinese tulip tree, hybrid Chinese tulip tree, North American Chinese tulip tree, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maple species, ormosia, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, white plum, goji, heavenly bamboo, rich seed, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter cherry, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit, etc. Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its already blackened, whitened, and softened fruits picked at the end of April. After rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be stored in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, the covering grass should be removed in time, and a shed should be set up for shading; for cultivating nipplefruit, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, transplanting can be carried out. They can be potted for fruit viewing or ground-planted for cultivation as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus balls and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, Aspidistra, ferns, broadleaf lady palm, spider plant, agave, silver king evergreen, lucky bamboo, Guangdong evergreen, arrowroot species, aloe, pepper grass species, monstera, bird's nest fern, etc. ɑ⑽⒑⒎ā⒆⒖ㄌ⒑ダ⑹⒔ɡ⒈ㄋ⒋⑶Ｌ⑺ɑā⒒ㄒ⒚⑼ā⒅ズ⒂ⅰ⑸⑼⒓⑤⒋４⑼?

    4. Cuttage

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttage in April. The main species include: boxwood species, mahonia species, heavenly bamboo, cypress species, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spirea, Chinese tulip tree, snow spray, edgeworthia, spreading hedgehog rose, etc.

II. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively shortened, repotting can be carried out in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowers and trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must absolutely not be repotted after leaf unfolding.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowers and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen flowers and trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with soil balls in April; for evergreen flowers and trees, such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, banana shrub species, white orchid species, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration from the crown; for deciduous flowers and trees, it is best to transplant before leaf unfolding, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple species, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowers and trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted flower or tree. In this way, under the condition of not destroying the soil ball, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability, whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and training by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, blue cypress, snow-in-summer, water willow, true juniper, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, soft cypress, flower cypress, banyan, boxleaf euonymus, large-leaved hackberry, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, sabina, etc. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nan, white ash, trident maple, oak, fragrant wood, golden bullet, hall crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, golden larch, tiger thorn, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal wire or non-metal wire to continuously train, guide, and correct them, so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, this month special attention should be paid to the following three aspects: First, remove buds in time. When winter buds move and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male strobili. When needle leaf bundle buds and female and male strobili can be distinguished from new shoots, promptly remove all female strobili borne at the tips of new shoots and male strobili located at the base of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, and substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly drawn needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilizing

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter cherry, Christmas cactus, Spring Orchid, large-flowered cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, Phaius, etc., because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after spring warmth, apply additional fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen, such as thoroughly composted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth; for potted flower species about to bloom, such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jian orchid, hibiscus, white orchid, etc., topdressing should also be given, and the type can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, banana shrub species, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some water, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 plants into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting plant shape and preventing diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species susceptible to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowers and trees blooming in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, hall crabapple, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so that they can normally fertilize and set fruit, and do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cutted ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for their healing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics in May: temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises significantly. There is much continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns stuffy and hot, marking that summer will soon begin. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, loquat, etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in seedbed moisture and dryness, causing seeds to "return to bud"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several batches, and set up a shed for shading in time, to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the tip of the radicle is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent mice from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttage

Flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, Peacock grass, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia species, sulfur chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, jasmine, pearl orchid, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, dragon tree, orchid cactus, jade tree, gem flower, Tiannü flower, spreading hedgehog rose, umbrella plant, lantana, red-backed excoecaria, shrimp plant, gold bud flower, clerodendrum, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander species, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedling or cutting plants, and graft to propagate white orchid and banana shrub; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, straw-cloak maple, etc.; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old cutting plants, split-graft to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock, bud-graft to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock, graft to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use two-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; tender-branch graft superior varieties of wintersweet, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, milan, Western azalea, camellia, croton, banana shrub, red maple, etc.; flower and trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during the National Day period, most species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, by the end of September and early October, they can bloom on time, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur chrysanthemum, China aster, Kochia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when white magnolia is transplanted after flowering and just before sprouting and leaf unfolding, the survival rate is highest. Some flowers and trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant and survive can also be transplanted and established with soil balls in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will also gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering and foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water directly treated with bleaching powder. For this reason, tap water can first be poured into a water pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, azalea, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple species, red-flowered oil tea, etc.; foliage species include: sago cycad, bird's nest fern, monstera, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, arrowhead plant, arrowroot, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing species include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, heavenly bamboo, winter cherry, rich seed, etc.

    2. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For the shortening pruning of white orchid not long after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up, and extends downward. For this reason, consider making the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and absolutely do not get too close to the bud eye. For post-flowering pruning of potted Chinese rose, lower it moderately by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can form flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal, generally 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, remove the terminal bud in time to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: monstera, broadleaf lady palm, arrowroot, bird's nest fern, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink beauty leaf, Chinese fan palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowers and trees, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago cycad, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants, such as large-leaved hackberry, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, oak, snow-in-summer, black pine, soft pine, etc., require sufficient light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red nan, blue cypress, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilizing

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, milan, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., respectively after flowering remove the residual flowers and withered stems, and apply compound fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for forming flower buds again; for species mainly for foliage viewing, such as rubber tree, monstera, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., apply thoroughly composted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead plant, pink beauty leaf, etc., apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution as foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, etc., pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease, and promptly spray pesticides to kill leaf-eating pests that appear; for leaf-eating pests that often appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc.??? citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, spray pesticides to kill them as early as possible.

IV. Bonsai shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, snow-in-summer, blue cypress, water willow, fragrant wood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when shaping, you must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River Basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of equal strength meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer and most bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful, to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, disrupting shaping or affecting the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flower and tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, sago cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the fruiting mother tree turns from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, take out the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 hours to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean wet sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds can crack and show white, and at this time open furrows and sow; the covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most of the seeds' cotyledons have emerged, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 batches, and set up a shed for shading in time.

    2. Cuttage

    2. Cuttage

In summer, with high temperatures and high humidity, the cambium in the branches of flowers and trees is highly active, making it the best time for propagating flowers and trees by cuttings. There are two main categories of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as sweet osmanthus, camellia, banana shrub, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, serissa, pomegranate, hibiscus, Caragana, jasmine, pearl orchid, dragon-leaf pearl, Lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, finger citron, lemon, Buddhist pine, heavenly bamboo, Chinese trumpet creeper, red-back osmanthus, honeysuckle, Chinese hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, golden-bark willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia crenata, paperbush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela coraeensis, weigela, Physocarpus, coral tree species, Schefflera species, Mahonia species, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, bigleaf hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy species, globeflower, cuphea, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia species, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, African marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and sweet osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of sweet osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the substrate can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip, and the lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in a 500 mg/kg solution of No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid, then inserted into the seedbed after being briefly air-dried; the insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the shoot length, with a plant-to-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, bamboo hoops are set up over the seedbed, then plastic film is added as a cover, with the edges pressed firmly with mud, and a double-layer shade frame is erected to block light, keeping the bed surface moist, with the temperature inside the film controlled at around 30°C and the humidity maintained above 90%; generally, after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet plants as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, banana shrub, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties by grafting; use one-year-old seedling plants of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, etc. by bud grafting; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. by grafting. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock to branch-graft camellia and sasanqua; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the azalea rootstocks to cleft-graft or side-graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, bigleaf hydrangea, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, weigela, oleander, sweet osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia odorata, pearl orchid, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus species, variegated lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed collection and transplanting and field planting

    1. Seed collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be stored in sand until they crack and germinate before field sowing; sweet osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo, and then sown in a selected nursery site when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting, field planting and potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, field planting or potting, namely: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Impatiens hawkeri, primrose, ornamental pepper, Jerusalem cherry, red-clothed tobacco, petunia, African marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon-mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

As summer arrives, some large flowers and trees are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood species, under special circumstances transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know," but after transplanting, management such as misting and shading should be strengthened.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: first, the watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under normal circumstances watering once a day is sufficient; second, the water temperature, which should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature; if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth; third, combining watering and misting, when there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pots, the leaf surfaces and the surroundings of the pots should also be misted, so as to increase the humidity of the local space; if there is continuous cloudy weather, whether to water and mist should be decided according to the dryness or moisture of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, etc.; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and their metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced and the pot soil kept merely moist; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), Ranunculus asiaticus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, surviving the summer in a dormant state in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots; watering must be stopped for them, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, a comprehensive inspection of potted flowers should be carried out after the rain stops; if standing water is found in the pots, it should be poured out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries somewhat, loosening the soil should be carried out, so as to avoid root rot of the plants; alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilizing

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, arrowroot species, sword fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back osmanthus, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pearl orchid, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, Lantana, bleeding heart glorybower, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., a thin diluted rotted cake fertilizer solution can be applied every half month; for species currently in bloom, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet their needs for growth, flowering and fruiting.

For those flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade plant, crab claw orchid, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, Sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and bud pinching

(1) Prune vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, green cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple and snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc.; branches that affect the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and can also encourage it to produce more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Pinching buds: for flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pearl orchid and Chinese rose, faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to encourage the lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowers and trees such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom and crabapple, in order to help them form a good plant shape and produce more flower buds, more flowers and better flowers in the current or following year, the excessively vigorous branches should be tip-pruned and buds pinched to inhibit the growth of the main and side shoots and promote the sprouting of side buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, those flowers and trees that prefer shade or partial shade must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure, such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, pearl orchid, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, Peperomia, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, Daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower species, on the other hand, must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia thea, Chinese holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Mahonia, grape, etc.; for Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, heavenly bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, five-needle pine, Podocarpus, etc., appropriate shading can be given.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Chinese juniper, green cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple species, etc. are easily damaged by trunk-boring longhorn beetles and should be controlled promptly by using poisoned sticks to block them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are easily damaged by aphids, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected with anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, finger citron, etc. have tender leaves that are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact insecticides and stomach poisons can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly some adaptable woody ornamental plants that tolerate wiring, and they must be plants that were potted for hardening or planted in the ground in early spring. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, green cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with gentle and slow wiring, and one must never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Grain in Ear; June 21 is Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July volume)

Weather characteristics of July: on July 7, the plum rain weather ends in the Jianghuai region. On July 16 the dog days begin, and on August 15 the dog days end, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, and in the region south of the Jianghuai it is 28°C; only in northern Northeast China and on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. Flower management in July mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Chinese primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc. can also be picked, the flesh washed off, and then sown in furrows immediately, or the washed stone fruits can be stored in moist sand until they crack and then sown; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: Scutellaria, begonia species, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, African marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, pepperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, Kalanchoe, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower species suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: red-back osmanthus, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela coraeensis, bigleaf hydrangea, weigela, Physocarpus, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne, gardenia, paperbush, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pearl orchid, Schefflera, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, firethorn, cordyline, Chinese hibiscus, serissa, banana shrub, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Viburnum sargentii, boxwood species, fig, purple magnolia, sweet osmanthus, azalea species, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden-bark willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some flowers and trees can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, pearl orchid, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To propagate flowers and trees by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick 1 cm to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforated for use as cutting fixing material; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and a few pieces of charcoal can be added for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach and peach seedlings can be used as rootstock to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc. by bud grafting; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstock to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses and rugosa roses, etc. by bud grafting; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to propagate Michelia alba, banana shrub, etc. by *grafting; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet plants as rootstock to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet by *grafting; 2-year-old wintersweet seedling plants can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the azalea rootstocks to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea by cleft grafting or side grafting; use cherry seedling plants as rootstock to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry by bud grafting; use current-year seedling plants of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis or Malus halliana and crabapple as rootstock to carry out "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple species; use Acer palmatum seedling plants as rootstock to propagate red maple, feather maple and other seedlings by bagged grafting.
    4. Layering
    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, bigleaf hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, weigela, Caragana, sweet osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, pearl orchid, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf species, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and field planting
    1. Seed collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc.
    2. Transplanting, field planting and potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers displayed during the National Day period. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings, and after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon-mouth flower, African marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, dragon juniper ball, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames must be set up promptly, and the number of misting times must be increased; after they have basically survived, normal management can be resumed, and one must never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, Sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio, Daphne, crab claw orchid, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low, so watering should be reduced, the pot soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot of the plants and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormancy state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, bleeding heart, etc., in July they show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, surviving the summer in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil kept merely not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, pearl orchid, Norfolk Island pine, arrowroot species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, green queen, Calathea, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate leaf misting should also be given, combining watering and misting. Especially in continuous cloudy weather, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and misting should likewise be given, and one must not be negligent. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first mist the leaf surfaces, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots; one must never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or lead to rotting of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides, so as to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, the few hours around noon should be avoided, and watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, the flower pots should be checked promptly after the rain, and if standing water is found in the pots, it should be poured out promptly; after the pot soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, sweet osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; the third is species for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, heavenly bamboo, wintersweet, azalea, etc.; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plant's comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers that should receive strengthened fertilization in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Jianlan orchid, African marigold, four-o'clock, dragon-mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, sweet osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, pearl orchid, wintersweet, hibiscus, cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many foliage plant species, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, arrowroot, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, cordyline, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped, especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as Sedum species, Senecio, Lampranthus, stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender tip buds with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, Elaeagnus, water willow, Vitex negundo, forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, orange jasmine, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, promoting the sprouting of lower side buds and causing them to form beautiful crown layers or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, cat's-claw holly, true cypress, etc.
For those potted flower species that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, pearl orchid, etc., their faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be given necessary cutback, which can promote the sprouting of lower side buds and reblooming; for azalea, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, and special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure, such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, pearl orchid, bird of paradise, orchid species, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Rhaphidophora, bromeliads, arrowroot species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, black pine, water willow, oak, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Buddhist pine, Podocarpus, banana shrub, tiger thorn, cloud bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in moist sand, which can reduce evaporation from the pot soil surface and is also beneficial for protecting the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
For air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leaf leatheriness, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, should be selected, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, golden-flowered hibiscus, fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba, etc., while sword fern, coleus, giant taro, Syngonium, etc. are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and misting, and keeping away from air-conditioner outlets, to prevent wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold leaves in July, the leaf tip parts are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more favorable for the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-fold solution or folpet 500-fold solution should be sprayed for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding, and methods such as manual digging and killing, injecting systemic pesticides, inserting poisoned sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, etc. should be avoided to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the boxwood webworm that harms boxwood, boxwood, and pearl boxwood; when this pest occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate can be sprayed promptly. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, rue, etc., and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, water wax and ash tree, late July to late August is its eclosion period, and the right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf Euonymus, plane tree, Pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar, etc., and in severe cases the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves; early July is the peak hatching period of the nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branch injuries are prone to infection by pathogens and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. The ones that can still be shaped are some adaptable plant species that tolerate wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted for hardening or planted in the ground in spring. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, green cypress, serissa, black pine, boxwood, water willow, etc.
    In July, plant shaping should be careful and meticulous, with gentle and slow wiring and gradual force; one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August, with high temperature, strong light and low humidity, is the second hottest dry-hot period of the year after July, and the average monthly temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among woody flowers, the main ones are: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea fragrans, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana, ivory red (coral tree), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, palm bamboo, money tree, large-leaf umbrella tree, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, spotted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam, large-flowered canna, variegated shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon-mouth flower, African marigold, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, calendula, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, silver-queen Aglaonema, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered oil tea, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine, etc.; they can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sown in bags after sand storage for germination promotion. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruits mature and split, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed off, and the seeds are stored in sand until germination before sowing. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, calendula, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carrying out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings can propagate the following flower and tree species: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, spotted Aucuba, Chinese snowball, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, pearl orchid, rubber tree, galearis, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, cordyline, bigleaf hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as substrate, boxwood species, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, heavenly bamboo, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. can be propagated by cuttings. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, African marigold and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowers and trees can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and *graft sweet osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and *graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling plants of peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use cherry seedling plants as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedling plants of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and change the crown to graft red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and branch-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petaled camellia as rootstock and branch-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and branch-graft or *graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, bigleaf hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball, oleander, gardenia, Caragana, winter jasmine, forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, sweet osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, pearl orchid, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, Aspidistra, umbrella plant, Adina, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch aster, fine-leaf Acorus, sword fern, silver-queen Aglaonema, arrowroot species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small corms divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, strengthening management such as shading, watering and misting after transplanting can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged dense oriental arborvitae, golden-center (edge) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, dragon juniper ball, Shu juniper ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and field-planted, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, African marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon-mouth flower, etc., and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly and Photinia davidsoniae, pruning should continue to be given. For ground-planted ball plants, such as Photinia, dragon juniper, Shu juniper, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum, Chinese holly, wintergreen, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana, etc., faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately cut back. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, African marigold, etc., tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and field-planted herbaceous flowers, watering and misting management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are bound with straw rope, the straw rope should be misted wet, ensuring that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves, with more misting and careful watering, ensuring no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged (center) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, spotted Aucuba, variegated shell ginger, etc., in order to keep the leaf color vivid for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that continue to bloom, such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn peony, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by leaf-surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on plants such as cedar, privet, Pittosporum, sweet osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia and camellia, 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution should be sprayed promptly for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000-fold solution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew Chinese rose leaves, 10% fenvalerate 1000-fold solution should be sprayed promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered oil tea, Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m., and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those acid-loving ornamental plant species, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron-cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, etc., water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf-rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also cannot be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, watering must be reduced and misting increased, and water should be poured into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the pot soil to compact. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and misting should be controlled, only maintaining the pot soil slightly moist, and a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by misting the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Ficus elastica, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Araucaria heterophylla, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, Pachira aquatica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Cordyline australis, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (peace plant), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix plant), Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia 'Green King', Dieffenbachia 'Green Queen', Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pisonia umbellifera, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, etc., a low-concentration liquid fertilizer may be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Rosa chinensis, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Lagerstroemia indica, Punica granatum (ornamental), Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui', Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus limon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Diospyros cathayensis, Punica granatum (fruiting), Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles sinensis, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For autumn-blooming potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Chrysanthemum morifolium (early), Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Helianthus annuus (dwarf), etc., a dilute liquid fertilizer may be applied once every half month to ensure luxuriant leaves and abundant flowers after autumn begins. For flowering woody species in the process of flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron simsii, etc., a low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the foliage. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, spray the foliage once with water promptly after fertilizing, to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormancy or semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Daphne odora, Aloe vera, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Portulacaria afra, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, Cactaceae, Echinopsis species, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still intense, so shade management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those shade-loving ornamental plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Ficus elastica, Dypsis lutescens, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, Epipremnum aureum, Dieffenbachia 'Green King', Dieffenbachia 'Green Queen', Cymbidium species, Pisonia umbellifera, Peperomia species, Bromeliaceae, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Chlorophytum comosum, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia species, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta ventricosa, etc., continue to provide shed shading, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around midday. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning those vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, easily sprouting tree-stump bonsai, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, etc. For Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum (ornamental), Aglaia odorata, etc., perform reduction pruning after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, Papilio xuthus, Arge pagana, and Aromia bungii. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea', Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum (fruiting), Punica granatum (ornamental), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, Carmona retusa, Rosa chinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Agave americana, Lantana camara, Ginkgo biloba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, some of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium nobile, Cattleya species, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda species, Oncidium species, Zamia furfuracea, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea species, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia species, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to keep moisture for cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting medium can be a mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species suitable for cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, Gardenia jasminoides, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, Jasminum sambac, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. For the 5 to 6 hours around midday, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Ficus carica, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria obtusa, Pelargonium hortorum, Aglaonema modestum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers must be done carefully. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature or air temperature; second, pay attention to the timing of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, with 10 cm of wet sand placed inside, and then some moisture-loving potted flowers can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium podophyllum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Bromeliaceae, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually spraying water instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium species, Cattleya species, Fuchsia hybrida, Dendrobium nobile, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved to an air-conditioned room and sprayed with water instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Rosa chinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea', Wisteria sinensis, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave americana, Cycas revoluta, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants that are in dormancy or semi-dormancy. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Prunus mume, Acer buergerianum, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plant's nutritional fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around midday.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, Xylosma congestum, Adina rubella (small), Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum sinense, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., pinching or pruning is still required this month. For other potted ornamental plants, faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by using transparent adhesive tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Manual (September chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the courtyard. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Cycas revoluta (Australian iron), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Osmanthus fragrans, Punica granatum, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus mutabilis, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria obtusa, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Trachycarpus fortunei, Rosa chinensis, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Zamia furfuracea, Picea species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia subelliptica (Clusiaceae), Bambusa vulgaris 'Wamin', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Cordyline australis, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, Salvia splendens, Chrysanthemum morifolium (early), Begonia maculata, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum (ornamental), Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata, Antirrhinum majus, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species suitable for sowing include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Phoenix canariensis, etc. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing downward when sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for Calycanthus chinensis, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species suitable for sowing include: Alcea rosea, Dianthus chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, Viola tricolor, Antirrhinum majus, Petunia hybrida, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris tectorum, Verbena hybrida, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as Cyclamen persicum, Primula malacoides, Tropaeolum majus, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting medium, woody flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Fuchsia hybrida, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum var. tomentosum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia acuminata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Justicia brandegeeana, Cyrtanthera carnea, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Buxus species, Magnolia denudata (purple), Hypericum chinense, Spiraea species, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, Ficus carica, Nerium oleander, Serissa japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Paeonia suffruticosa, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, Chrysanthemum morifolium (late), etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowers and trees can be propagated by grafting: use peony root segments as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony; use seedling rootstocks of Prunus persica (wild peach), apricot, etc., to bud-graft Prunus triloba, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, etc.; use Acer palmatum seedling rootstock to bag-moisture cleft-graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedling rootstock to bud-graft excellent varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock to *-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedling rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock to *-graft Osmanthus fragrans; use potted seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock to *-graft excellent varieties of Chimonanthus praecox.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species suitable for layering propagation include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, Ligustrum japonicum, Viburnum plicatum var. tomentosum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species suitable for division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia suffruticosa, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Dieffenbachia 'Green King' (multi-headed), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Argenteomarginatus', Aspidistra elatior, Liriope platyphylla, etc. In addition, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Freesia refracta, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Lycoris radiata, Scilla peruviana, etc., can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures in September are still relatively high, unless there is a special need, generally flowers and trees are not transplanted in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided a good soil ball is kept. Species include: Nerium oleander, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Buxus species, Hypericum chinense, Ligustrum japonicum, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning and strengthened watering, spraying, and shading management to ensure success. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Cosmos sulphureus, Dahlia pinnata (small), Calendula officinalis, Canna generalis (dwarf), Chrysanthemum morifolium (early), etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning include: Buxus species, Ligustrum japonicum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea' (multi-headed), etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Buxus species, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia species, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, Forsythia viridissima, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched back include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and more inflorescences on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For long-lasting ground-planted woody flowers, such as Rosa chinensis varieties, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, Lagerstroemia indica, Punica granatum (ornamental), Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately reduce-prune the flowered branches, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing good watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around tree trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Acalypha wilkesiana, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (dwarf), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', etc., to keep the leaf color fresh and bright, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming or are for autumn flower and fruit viewing, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Rosa chinensis, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui', Citrus microcarpa, Punica granatum (ornamental), Bougainvillea spectabilis, Hibiscus mutabilis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ardisia crenata, Fortunella margarita, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fortunella margarita, Osmanthus fragrans 'Yin Gui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Dan Gui', etc., that are blooming, stop fertilizing during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Malus spectabilis, etc., spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming Lagerstroemia indica, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Rosa chinensis and chrysanthemum plants, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, Michelia figo, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Michelia chapensis (Yunshan), Michelia chapensis (Lechang), Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, Magnolia grandiflora, etc. In addition, there are Aesculus species, Lagerstroemia indica, Syringa species, Malus species, Cercis chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, Chimonanthus nitens, etc. For Magnoliaceae, Taxus chinensis, Aesculus species, Malus species, etc., after seed treatment, they must all be stored in wet sand until early the following spring, and sown after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested include: Tagetes erecta, Zinnia elegans, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Helichrysum bracteatum, Callistephus chinensis, etc. After harvesting, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, light is relatively strong, temperatures are relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. For watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate foliage spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by foliage spraying. Watering time should be before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer also begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so this month great attention should be paid to fertilization management. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix plant), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, Dieffenbachia 'Green King', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution, etc. For flower and tree species with a very long flowering period or peak flowering in autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara (tricolor), Lantana camara, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc.; fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros cathayensis, Callicarpa japonica, Punica granatum (fruiting), etc.; colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Golden Edge', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus blumei, etc., apply fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., that are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud expansion stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron simsii, etc., apply low-concentration fertilizer with balanced nutrients; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, Helianthus annuus (dwarf), etc., apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are relatively high and sunlight is still strong, so shade management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata, Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Dieffenbachia 'Green King', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Cymbidium species, Pisonia umbellifera, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia species, Justicia brandegeeana, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia picta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Dracaena sanderiana, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, etc., give full sunlight; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, etc., give appropriate shading around midday. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, also give appropriate shading to prevent wilting and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue doing a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum (ornamental), Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera carnea, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that are pruning-tolerant, easily sprouting, and vigorously growing, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis var. sargentii, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For Aromia bungii appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Duplex', etc., insert poison sticks to block and kill, or control by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, Eriococcus species, etc., appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% methidathion at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air, and only some potted flowers placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum (fruit-ornamental), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed in an air-conditioned room, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium nobile, Cattleya species, Vanda species, Hymenocallis species, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia species, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for the 4 to 5 hours around midday, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Cordyline australis, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed medium of rice husk ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Cyrtanthera carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Indoors, Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc., can also be water-propagated.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some relatively moisture-loving ornamental plants, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water basin or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand bed, and usually sprayed with water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, also spray more and water less, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, spray at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and spraying 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the pot soil being wet on top and dry below. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around midday, be careful that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature or air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to the different species, appropriately apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual smell, especially not a foul odor; when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutritional fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around midday; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull on a shade net to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus chinensis var. rhynchophylla, etc., pinching or pruning is still required. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, faded flowers, and withered stems should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for Semanotus bifasciatus on Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Sabina chinensis, and Juniperus rigida bonsai, and Aromia bungii on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually; when the number is large, spray 40% methidathion at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures decline in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus microcarpa (thick-leaf), Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Zamia furfuracea, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa vulgaris 'Wamin', Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Cordyline australis, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum morifolium (small), Begonia maculata, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum (ornamental), Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species suitable for sowing include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Ligustrum japonicum, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium ascendens, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus, the hilum should face downward; before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species can have their seeds cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species suitable for sowing include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris tectorum, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica (red flower), Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum chinense, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species suitable for cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Cyrtanthera carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia brandegeeana, Chrysanthemum morifolium (late), etc. Suitable for cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Oosaka'); use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony; use one-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', etc.; use one-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft excellent varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use Hylocereus undatus as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species suitable for ground layering propagation include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August', Viburnum plicatum var. tomentosum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum chinense, Ligustrum japonicum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica (red flower), etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species suitable for division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia species, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species suitable for division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris tectorum, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Dieffenbachia 'Green King' (multi-headed), Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species suitable for bulb division include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Prunus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa species, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliiflora, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea' (multi-headed), Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, reduce-prune before transplanting; second, keep a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species suitable for planting out include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species suitable for ground planting include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Perform the last pruning of the year on courtyard hedges and ball-shaped plants, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea' (multi-headed), Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants requiring pruning include: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus species, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia species, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately reduce-prune the flowered branches. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flowering and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowers and trees newly planted in the same year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying; first, keep the root soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, continue to spray water on the foliage. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, appropriately apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus species that have already bloomed, dig ring-shaped trenches and bury basal fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, as well as Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., in the south, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For wood-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick tree trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Ligustrum japonicum, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species suitable for dry storage include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria fortunei, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata (small), Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Euphorbia marginata, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, maintaining a room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is advisable to water once a day, supplemented by foliage spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and spraying increased, to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering times are 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Narcissus poeticus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-ornamental potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia picta, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Nephrolepis exaltata, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around midday.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, and weak spindly branches should be pruned off first; for leggy shoots, heavy cutback pruning should be carried out; for bindings that have been in place for 1 to 2 years after styling, they can be removed, or removed and then re-tied, to prevent long-term constriction at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid to late October, ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-hardy woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be planted by burying the pots in soil in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot at the end of the month, to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately monitored to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Prune off dead branches and fallen leaves from potted flowers and trees, collect them together and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms and other pests should be controlled.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October, balconies still have strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese privet-leaved holly (Sageretia thea), trident maple, water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxwood (Buxus sinica), pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaved fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, pyracantha, lantana, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower and tree species can no longer remain on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as bamboo palm, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, Dracaena godseffiana, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers: In early October, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting medium of rice husk ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting medium, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, Aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Aglaonema, coral flower (Jatropha multifida), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), hibiscus, bergamot, Aglaonema silver queen, golden pothos, geranium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., they can be watered once a day, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and spraying water on the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Aspidistra, Cordyline, bird's nest fern, Anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos, etc., spraying should be the main method and watering supplementary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species recovering from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied; for fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella hindsii), lemon, nandina, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, pyracantha, winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc., a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., 1 to 2 applications of dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be given in early October to help them overwinter successfully.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient feeder roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from caking, wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc. can continue to be placed on the surface of the potting soil, especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, even more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon on clear days. Shade nets set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid to late October, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out on tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese privet-leaved holly, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can be untied first, and if the styling requirements have not yet been met, a new tying position can be changed for further wiring and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves from all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai with partially exposed xylem on the trunk, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, marking the start of winter in our country. The middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, while the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning of ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing tree trunks and pest removal, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively carrying out cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African gerbera, Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea cantoniensis), small-leaved privet, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), podocarpus (Nageia nagi), Buddhist pine, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), palm, French holly (Viburnum awabuki), photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulch must be added. Flower and tree species requiring insulation and cold protection mainly include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: boxwood (Buxus sinica), Japanese boxwood (Buxus microphylla), large-leaved boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), silver-edged boxwood, Pilea cadierei, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia, golden-edged snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for Begonia maculata, Begonia bowerae, Begonia nelumbiifolia, geranium, hibiscus, Fuchsia, jade plant, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until next spring for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and improve the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-graft red maple and feather maple indoors; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union buried in soil for overwintering); using thick branches of Chinese rose (variety 'Elizabeth') as rootstock-scion, and branches of superior rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, promoting simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut end, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaved gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, green cypress (Calocedrus macrolepis), Michelia figo, bridal wreath spirea, snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball viburnum, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, bridal wreath spirea, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena (Neillia), Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia, Buddleja, tree peony, broom (Caragana), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut and divided for planting.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Chunlan orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Huilan orchid (Cymbidium faberi), hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaved liriope, Reineckea carnea, zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra, Bryophyllum, etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, cockscomb (Celosia argentea), China aster, Tagetes patula, marigold, maple-leaf hibiscus (Abutilon), etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese false cypress, Japanese flat cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow tree, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, bridal wreath spirea. Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaved privet, palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, Chinese wolfberry, yew (Taxus), southern magnolia, wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese holly, pyracantha, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Chinese rose (for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: sweet alyssum (Silene), dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, calendula, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow tree, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree (Liriodendron), Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, crabapple, etc. When transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately cut back or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large root ball carried (generally the root ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches pruned, with a good root ball carried and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-lipped narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard, and it should not be too wet. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plant is prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf spraying should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, pyracantha, nandina, winter cherry, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently sprayed with water, to facilitate the expansion and growth of flower buds, and also to make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be frequently sprayed with water, so that they always maintain a verdant and glossy leaf color. In greenhouses and rooms with relatively high temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-hardy, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is preferably 10 to 11 AM, and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to excessively low water temperature, which would affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Western azalea, camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, Aechmea, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied. Using 0.2% monopotassium phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, to help them dormancy and overwinter normally. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia, herbaceous peony, Hypericum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with a dosage of 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for smaller plants, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not been completed, and after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Japanese privet-leaved holly, trident maple, oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree, pyracantha, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to lay a good framework for next year's growth and formation.

For ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned, prune them. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, the remaining old stems are cut off from the base, and all thin and weak branches are pruned off; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtles, carry out heavy cutback pruning of the current year's branches. Except for retaining a few thick branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, all other current year's branches are pruned off, to facilitate the emergence of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flowerbeds, along streets, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree, purple magnolia, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, pyracantha, pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut off all irregular branches, weak spindly branches, inner canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately cut back leggy shoots protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, large palm trees can also be stripped of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned, so that they display their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very afraid of cold, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chunlan orchid, Huilan orchid, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, bottle orchid (Agapetes), bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, bamboo palm, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no less than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, croton, Pachystachys lutea, golden shrimp plant, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is no less than 10°C, or double-layer plastic tunnels can be used for protection through the winter.

For those relatively cold-hardy bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxwood, Japanese privet-leaved holly, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil. Under conditions not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange work should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. During ventilation, care should also be taken not to let plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, chrysanthemum, etc., collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dry-trunk and split-trunk tree-stump bonsai, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the xylem of the tree stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (which may occur on bitter orange, bergamot, sago palm, orchids, camellia, Clivia, Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a wet cloth, and second spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (which may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose), tobacco water can be sprayed for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying fertilizers such as leaf nutrients, otherwise due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    Bonsai plant species suitable for styling in November mainly include: Buddhist pine, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chinese juniper, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sabina procumbens, Euonymus bungeanus, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), plum blossom, winter hazel (Corylopsis), oak (Quercus), Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex), boxwood, Buxus harlandii, Chinese elm, Malus halliana, etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese privet-leaved holly, bougainvillea, water willow, pyracantha, Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch breaking, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and carry out styling after they sprout branches next year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of maintenance and styling, in November, according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, suitable pots can be selected for re-potting, matched with stones, and dotted with moss, so they can be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-styled tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc., in November, suitable pots can be selected for potting, water management strengthened, and they can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent white frost. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning and cleaning of open-field flowers and trees and in turning the soil and applying fertilizer; third, do a good job in preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, Clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, African gerbera, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen (Ilex) species, pyracantha, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaved privet, soapberry, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly varieties such as palace pink and green calyx); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (heel cuttings), spiraea, boxwood species, etc. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be made of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, gem plant (Graptopetalum), Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Bryophyllum, Kalanchoe, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, wax begonia, Begonia maculata, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, lantana, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos, Cordyline, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be propagated for gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edged) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, false arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), pyracantha, silver willow, Neillia, etc. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored in sand until next spring for cuttings.

    3. Grafting. Superior plum blossom varieties, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown in the same year. After digging up the rootstock, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in seedbeds at a certain row spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and removing the covering film after the scion sprouts next spring. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior rose varieties; or use robust branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose scions on the upper end, and then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' segments into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the graft union, covering with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, and after the scion sprouts next spring, remove the covering film, and only after it has completely survived can a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spirea, Chinese snowball viburnum, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), liriope, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), red-flowered oxalis, Aspidistra, Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Chunlan orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Huilan orchid (Cymbidium faberi), sword fern (Nephrolepis), blackberry lily, iris, large-leaved liriope, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, Aglaonema. When cutting off daughter plants from the base of large colorful bromeliad plants for division, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colorful bands of the daughter plants cut off are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, bamboo palm, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as scarlet sage species, globe amaranth species, marigold, Tagetes patula, cyclamen, Clivia, etc. Clivia seeds are best sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaved privet, pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen (Ilex) species, camphor tree, photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination. Only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage conditions, they easily lose vitality, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted in flowerbeds and flower borders in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, calendula, daisy, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, calendula, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, pansy, etc., and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, weeping pagoda tree, etc. However, transplanting of evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, wintergreen (Ilex), etc. When transplanting, first carry out heavy cutback pruning of the main tip and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap with film, to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowers and trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-lipped narcissus, etc. continue to be placed in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with a temperature not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without freezing damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, Asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, bamboo palm, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, pyracantha, camellia, Chunlan orchid, Huilan orchid, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, sago palm, etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature of no less than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, miniature coconut palm (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Molan orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, Buddha belly bamboo, etc., they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature of no less than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Calathea, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, Dieffenbachia 'Camille', poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, golden shrimp plant, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, South American cycad (Cycas revoluta), red (green) gem (Fittonia), Oncidium, tiger orchid (Cymbidium hookerianum), etc., in well-sealed double-layer tunnels, appropriate heating should also be provided. During particularly cold periods, from 4 PM to 9 AM the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnels, and removed after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-hardy potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese privet-leaved holly, oak (Quercus), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chinese juniper, red cedar, water willow, Chinese holly, Chinese fringe tree, etc., when not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; if particularly cold weather occurs, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, in addition to maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation and air permeability. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, the time of highest temperature in the day, for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. During ventilation, care must also be taken not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, the degree is to keep the potting soil moist. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf spraying given.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, hyacinth, European narcissus, etc., and fruit ornamental types such as bitter orange, lemon, bergamot, four-season mandarin, golden bean (Fortunella hindsii), winter cherry, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf spraying must also be given, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds, and also to increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both the potting soil should be kept moist and leaf spraying should be given, always keeping the leaf surface of the plants clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-hardy, such as Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, croton, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is preferably 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by excessively low water temperature.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, frequently inspect them and give supplementary watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowers and trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, herbaceous peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, pyracantha, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', flowering almond (Prunus triloba), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), white plum (Exochorda), photinia, redbud, rose of Sharon, etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, with types such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue, etc., to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, freesia, etc., 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can continue to be applied to promote flower bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped forms that were not completed in November, such as hedges and green walls of privet, small-leaved privet, French holly, large-leaved boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball-shaped forms such as Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, Forsythia, pyracantha, dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., carry out shaping and pruning. After pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Japanese privet-leaved holly, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree, pyracantha, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Buddhist pine, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chinese juniper, crabapple, papaya, etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, crape myrtle, etc., collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, bergamot, sago palm, camellia, Aspidistra, etc., first wipe them once with a rag, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, Fujian tea, etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowers and trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaved privet, pyracantha, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, felt scale, etc. At this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil preparation, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or water pools, add water, and seal for soaking, fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn, forming burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the winter free time, find an empty lot or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for next spring's repotting and potting of herbaceous flowers. Generally, it is 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, and after fully mixing, cover with plastic film, or pile it indoors. After 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for garden plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning; without making beds for the time being, after overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring next year, ditches can be drawn and beds made, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine, Thujopsis dolabrata, Chinese juniper, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chinese arborvitae, Sabina procumbens, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex), Euonymus bungeanus, ginkgo, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Caragana, Chinese elm, Japanese privet-leaved holly, trident maple, winter hazel (Corylopsis), tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxwood, Buxus harlandii, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, oak (Quercus), etc.

For bonsai plants fixed by wiring with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and pulling.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc. that have already been styled, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, careful management must be carried out. First, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold (Xiaohan), which falls around the "Sanjiu" period, when most parts of China enter the severe cold season; January 20 is Major Cold (Dahan), when cold air from the north frequently moves southward, with heavy frost and thick snow, bringing the lowest temperatures of the year. For flower care this month, the most important task is to do a good job of keeping cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and the like in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and indoor rooms warm and protected against the cold; the next is tree pruning, clearing away dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning over and leveling the soil, preparing potting soil, and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, and so on. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, goldenrain tree, and so on.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (green calyx, palace pink, and other cultivars), red-leaf plum, rose (Elizabeth, floribunda, miniature, and other cultivars), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Trirostellum, hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, and so on. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem flower, jade leaf, jade plant, echeveria, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, red-backed excoecaria, Guangdong evergreen, pothos, cordyline, and so on. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig, and so on can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, or wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, they are planted in seedbeds and covered with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud grafting is often used to propagate four-season mandarin, kumquat, and so on; wild roses dug up are used for bud grafting superior rose cultivars, with the rose Elizabeth cultivar as rootstock and scion, and superior rose cultivars are whip grafted or cleft grafted, with grafting and cutting propagation carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball, Chinese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, red maple, and so on.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, reineckea, rain lily, pink rain lily, hosta, purple calyx, purple-backed oyster plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, kalanchoe, bromeliads, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, aloe, and so on. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, rhapis palm, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, broom, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Trirostellum, boxwood, purple magnolia, and so on.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown as soon as collected; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species, Ardisia crenata, and so on can be collected, treated, and then stored in sand to promote germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white can they be sown.

    In January, sand-stored seeds should be checked frequently, including magnolia species, michelia species, photinia species, holly species, and so on, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and clean fine sand replaced before storing again; if the seeds are found to be dry, water should be sprayed promptly to replenish moisture; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film, straw, pine needles, or the like to retain warmth and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in areas that are not too cold include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, and so on; in relatively colder areas, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose, and so on can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, to be used later after spring returns and the weather warms for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Trirostellum, rose, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', and so on. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor and French green, except in special cases this month, transplanting should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, with heavy pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also feasible.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, Euonymus, and so on; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's-claw holly, Chinese holly, holly, oak, and so on, heavy pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-planting and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains added to protect against freezing.

III. Cold Protection

Cold protection and warmth retention work this month is the top priority in management; even a slight negligence can bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. Based on the lower limit of the lowest temperature that each different flower species can tolerate, a special environment should be created for their safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic tunnels not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, nandina, aucuba, michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, acorus, bamboo fern, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic tunnels not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, white orchid, pocket coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, tea camellia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, lantana, and so on. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, caladium, Syngonium, maranta, bromeliads, peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, Aglaia, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, South American cycad, desert rose, pink taro, poinsettia, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, and so on. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and covering with straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warm. On very cold days, inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel should be strengthened, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; there must be no interruption of fire or power, otherwise it is very easy to cause freezing damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flowers and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, plum yew, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, green cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, holly, and Chinese fringe tree, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when temperatures are not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, plastic film or soft grass can be added for warmth.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit-viewing and foliage plants, in addition to maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, it is also necessary to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants as much as possible.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air intrusion; if broken glass, torn film, and so on are found, they should be promptly plugged and repaired, so as to avoid potted flowers being frozen. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, careful inspection should also be carried out, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and the like.

To force potted peonies to bloom at Spring Festival, potted peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day and kept around 10°C at night, with 4 to 5 hours of additional light per day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, tea camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, winter jasmine, and so on can also be placed in tunnels at around 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering plants during Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth, tulip, red-nectar narcissus, freesia, and so on that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to be used for decorative display during Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, to keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even make the plants drop leaves, rot roots, or die. Watering time is best arranged within 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is relatively low, watering should be reduced accordingly, and when the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and leaf spraying can be given. For the vast majority of foliage plants, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to give leaf spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for relatively cold-intolerant foliage plant species, such as pink taro, Syngonium, maranta, croton, and so on, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can tolerate, watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around Spring Festival, such as camellia, tea camellia, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, pot marigold, and so on, and fruit-viewing types such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean, winter coral, and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds swell and also to increase the bright color of the fruit.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and plants whose potting soil has dried should be watered promptly; this can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, inspections should be frequent, and supplemental watering should be given promptly; especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most field-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, schima, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden willow, weeping elm, cryptomeria, Taiwan fir, cedar, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, loquat, and so on, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, then while turning the soil, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, and so on can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-nectar narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, Christmas cactus, and so on, low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as a top dressing, to help plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants, bonsai, and so on placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped plants and the like that were not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, grape, and so on, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, then bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the root system, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that mainly rely on pruning and secondarily on wiring, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese fringe tree, water myrtle, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, juniper, and so on, continue according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste to adjust and prune, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaved species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, and so on, where the trunk or large branches have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear away the leaves under rose, rugosa rose, grape, crape myrtle, and so on, gather them and burn them in a centralized way; this can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale and the like appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia, and so on, spraying with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, and so on can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent it from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, and so on in greenhouses, integrated control should be carried out: first use a wet cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray dimethoate and other pesticides for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and so on into a water pool or water vat for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile dead grass, branches, fallen leaves, and so on in layers with garden soil, light a fire and burn them, to make home-made burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, and so on with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, time should be seized in early January to plow it; while plowing the garden land, cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, soil and miscellaneous fertilizers, and so on should be applied in; after overwintering and freezing of clods, in early spring ditches should then be drawn and beds made, for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, green cypress, ginkgo, boxwood, velvet cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true cypress, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water myrtle, broom, wintersweet, Euonymus, banyan, wisteria, and so on. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms; this helps the healing of parts that may have been injured during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and the like, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and wiring and bending guidance carried out anew.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could also cause artificially glued rocks to disintegrate; also prevent plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can their safe overwintering be ensured.