How to make a dancing fallen flowers bonsai? Sharing the regular style and hanging style methods
The dancing fallen flowers has not been introduced to our country for long. Its flower colors are gorgeous, and it has many flowers. It is suitable for hanging decoration, and its ornamental effect is no less than the common Christmas cactus, so it is well worth recommending to flower lovers. Let's make a pot of dancing fallen flowers that sways in the wind! Today, the editor brings you the method for making a dancing fallen flowers bonsai. Let's take a look at the details.
The dancing fallen flowers has not been introduced to our country for long. Its flower colors are gorgeous, and it has many flowers. It is suitable for hanging decoration, and its ornamental effect is no less than the common Christmas cactus, so it is well worth recommending to flower lovers. Let's make a pot of "dancing fallen flowers" that sways in the wind! Today, the editor brings you the method for making a dancing fallen flowers bonsai. Let's take a look at the details.
Method for making a dancing fallen flowers bonsai:
Regular style
Materials needed: a flower pot, a flower stand, and of course the beautiful "dancing fallen flowers".
Because it is simple, is it ordinary? But it still looks good, so what can be done?
For a planted dancing fallen flowers, because of its vigorous growth, it will quickly send out many leaves. At this time, insert a flower stand into the pot. Doesn't it look much more comfortable?
Hanging style
Hanging bonsai has an artistic flair. With one at home, even if there is no outdoor space, with it you can still feel the breath of forest and greenery at home anytime. Every day is a good mood.
Materials needed: 2 flower pots, 1 bundle of cotton clothesline, 1 bundle of green soft cotton blind cord, 1 copper spring buckle, 8 to 16 wooden beads.
Production method
1. First cut three 16-foot lengths of clothesline and one 16-foot length of green cord. Next, fold all four lengths in half; pass the midpoint of the cords through the spring buckle, loop, and tighten. Make sure there are cords on both sides.
2. Take out the terracotta flower pot, and pass the cords on both sides through the hole at the bottom of the pot.
3. Turn the flower pot over, arrange the cords, and make sure there are two cords on each side of the pot. Repeat the above steps to connect the second flower pot.
4. String wooden beads below the cords, then tie knots. Place your favorite plants in the flower pots and hang them on the windowsill. A beautiful little garden is done.
Hanging bonsai allows you, at the moment you look up, to experience fresh abundance and feel a trace of coolness. Add the dancing flowers of the dancing fallen flowers, and your mood is simply wonderful!
Method for making a dancing fallen flowers bonsai
Dancing fallen flowers bonsai: regular style
Materials needed: a flower pot, a flower stand, and of course the beautiful "dancing fallen flowers".
Because it is simple, is it ordinary? But it still looks good, so what can be done?
For a planted dancing fallen flowers, because of its vigorous growth, it will quickly send out many leaves. At this time, insert a flower stand into the pot. Doesn't it look much more comfortable?
Dancing fallen flowers bonsai: hanging style
Hanging bonsai has an artistic flair. With one at home, even if there is no outdoor space, with it you can still feel the breath of forest and greenery at home anytime. Every day is a good mood.
Materials needed: 2 flower pots, 1 bundle of cotton clothesline, 1 bundle of green soft cotton blind cord, 1 copper spring buckle, 8 to 16 wooden beads.
Production method
1. First cut three 16-foot lengths of clothesline and one 16-foot length of green cord. Next, fold all four lengths in half; pass the midpoint of the cords through the spring buckle, loop, and tighten. Make sure there are cords on both sides.
2. Take out the terracotta flower pot, and pass the cords on both sides through the hole at the bottom of the pot.
3. Turn the flower pot over, arrange the cords, and make sure there are two cords on each side of the pot. Repeat the above steps to connect the second flower pot.
4. String wooden beads below the cords, then tie knots. Place your favorite plants in the flower pots and hang them on the windowsill. A beautiful little garden is done.
Hanging bonsai allows you, at the moment you look up, to experience fresh abundance and feel a trace of coolness. Add the dancing flowers of the dancing fallen flowers, and your mood is simply wonderful!
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, red loropetalum. Red loropetalum illustrated guide: how to grow red loropetalum / how to propagate red loropetalum
Red loropetalum profileRed loropetalum Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum
Cultivation methods and precautions for red loropetalum. Introduction to red loropetalum
Red loropetalum, also known as: red loropetalum, red zhizhi wood, red zhizhi wood, red jihua, red zhihua, red zhihua, red flower loropetalum, Latin scientific name: Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, is a variety of Loropetalum chinense in the family Hamamelidaceae and genus Loropetalum, an evergreen shrub or small tree.
The bark of red loropetalum is dark gray or light grayish brown, with many branches. Young branches are reddish brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. Leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptical, 2-5 cm long, apex shortly pointed, base rounded and oblique, asymmetrical, both sides with stellate hairs, entire margin, dark red. Petals 4, purplish red, linear, 1-2 cm long; flowers 3-8, clustered at the ends of branchlets. Capsules brown, nearly ovate.
The flowering period of red loropetalum is April to May, and the flowering period is long, about 30-40 days; it can bloom again during National Day. Flowers 3-8, clustered on the common peduncle in terminal capitula, purplish red. Fruiting period is August. It is mainly distributed in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and areas to the south, and northern India. Flowers, roots, and leaves can be used medicinally.
Morphological characteristics of red loropetalum
Red loropetalum is a shrub, sometimes a small tree, much branched, with stellate hairs on branchlets.
Leaves leathery, ovate, 2-5 cm long, 1.5-2.5 cm wide, apex acute, base obtuse, unequal-sided, upper surface slightly rough-haired or glabrous, dark green after drying, lusterless, lower surface covered with stellate hairs, slightly grayish white, lateral veins about 5 pairs, obvious above, raised below, entire; petiole 2-5 mm long, with stellate hairs; stipules membranous, triangular-lanceolate, 3-4 mm long, 1.5-2 mm wide, early deciduous.
Flowers 3-8, clustered, with short pedicels, white, opening before new leaves or simultaneously with young leaves, inflorescence peduncle about 1 cm long, hairy; bracts linear, 3 mm long; calyx tube cup-shaped, covered with stellate hairs, calyx teeth ovate, about 2 mm long, deciduous after flowering; petals 4, band-shaped, 1-2 cm long, apex rounded or obtuse; stamens 4, filaments very short, connective prominent and horn-shaped; staminodes 4, scale-like, alternating with stamens; ovary completely inferior, covered with stellate hairs; style very short, about 1 mm long; ovule 1, pendulous from the inner upper angle of the carpel.
The flowering period of red loropetalum is April to May, and the flowering period is long, about 30-40 days; it can bloom again during National Day. Flowers 3-8, clustered on the common peduncle in terminal capitula, purplish red. Fruiting period is August.
Ecological habits of red loropetalum
Red loropetalum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant.
Red loropetalum likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. Its sprouting ability and branching ability are strong, and it is tolerant of pruning. It is tolerant of poor soil, but suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil.
Cultivation technology and management of red loropetalum
Before transplanting red loropetalum, the fertilizer should be based mainly on fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, combined with broadcast application or hole application of compound fertilizer, and care should be taken to mix thoroughly to avoid root injury. During the growing season, use a neutral foliar fertilizer diluted 800-1000 times for foliar topdressing, spraying 2-3 times per month to promote new shoot growth. In the plum rain season in the south, attention should be paid to maintaining good drainage; in hot and dry seasons, ensure watering once each in the morning and evening, and combine with water spraying at noon to lower the temperature; in northern regions, because the soil and air are dry, water must be given in time to keep the soil moist, and in autumn, winter, and early spring, pay attention to spraying water to keep the leaf surface clean and moist.
1. Pruning
Red loropetalum has the characteristics of strong sprouting ability and tolerance of pruning. Carrying out light and moderate pruning in growing seasons such as early spring and early autumn, combined with normal water and fertilizer management, it can bloom after about 1 month, and the flowering period is concentrated. This method can promote new branches and new leaves, make the tree shape more beautiful, prolong the red leaf period, and can promote and control the flowering period. It is especially suitable for red loropetalum bonsai participating in flower exhibitions and trade fairs, can enhance the exhibition effect, and promote product sales.
2. Leaf removal and shoot pinching
During the growing season, remove the mature leaves and branch tips of red loropetalum. After about 10 days of normal management, new tender shoots can sprout again and bright red new leaves can grow.
3. Site selection for cultivation
Choose an environment with sufficient sunlight for cultivation, or thin out plants arranged to the southeast and above the red loropetalum, so that the red loropetalum can grow healthily under sufficient sunlight, making the flower color and leaf color more brilliant, thereby enhancing ornamental value.
Shaping
(1) Artificial spherical form
Red loropetalum is extremely tolerant of pruning and wiring for shaping, and the tree shape mostly adopts the artificial spherical form. During the growing season, remove the mature leaves and branch tips of red loropetalum. After about 10 days of normal management, new tender shoots can sprout again and bright red new leaves can grow.
(2) Natural clumping form
Red loropetalum has strong sprouting ability and strong branching ability, and can naturally grow into a clumping form.
(3) Single-trunk round-headed form
Select a stout branch to train as the trunk, remove the other branches, and when the trunk reaches above the set height, determine the trunk height. On it, select a robust, upright and upward-growing branch as the extension branch of the trunk, that is, train it as the central leader. Afterward, on the central leader, select and retain 4-5 strong main branches evenly arranged around it, with the branches distributed in staggered layers above and below.
Red loropetalum is often used to make bonsai, and can be made into different forms such as single-trunk style, double-trunk style, deadwood style, curved-trunk style, and forest style. The crown can be shaped into either an unrestrained natural form or round-piece forms of varying sizes and well-arranged layers. Processing methods can use wiring, pulling, and pruning. To make the trunk more vigorous and antique, a sharp knife can be used to carve the trunk, and the wounds heal very easily. In addition, it is also often used as a hedge.
Tissue culture
Explant
Select robust, pest-free stem tips, buds, and branches of red loropetalum as explants. Among these, explant collection is best in July to August, when the contamination rate is relatively low.
Culture medium
Tissue culture of red loropetalum includes primary culture, subculture proliferation culture, and rooting culture. Experiments show that the primary culture and subculture proliferation medium can refer to MS+BA1.0mg/l+IBA1.0mg/l; the rooting medium can refer to 1/2MS+NAA1.0-1.5mg/l+0.1% activated carbon.
Culture conditions
The culture conditions for red loropetalum are generally: temperature about 20°C, light duration 14h/d (14 hours per day), and light intensity 1500LX (lux).
Cultivation methods, potting methods, and management of red loropetalum
1. Potting
Seedlings propagated in nurseries and field-cultivated tree stumps are transplanted into flower pots, which is called potting. The specific method is: according to different grades of seedlings or stump height, crown width, and root distribution, choose flower pots of suitable specifications, use two appropriately sized tiles to cover both sides of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot (not completely covering the opening), then add one large tile over the opening, just enough to cover the opening, or place three tiles in an overlapping tile arrangement over the drainage hole; when filling soil, first place the screened coarse particles at the bottom of the pot, then add culture soil on top; when filled to 1/3 of the pot height, begin transplanting the seedlings. If it is bare-root transplanting, make the center of the pot soil mound-shaped so that the root mass extends downward and does not curl; when the culture soil is filled to about 3.5 cm from the pot rim, gently shake the flower pot to make the soil settle, and lightly press the pot soil on both sides of the seedling with your hands so that the young seedling remains upright.
After moving into the greenhouse, water the pot soil thoroughly with a fine-hole watering can so that the soil and root mass are in close contact. Before new roots appear, do not shake the flower pot at will, so as not to affect rooting.
2. Repotting
The operation of moving a potted plant into another pot is called repotting. Generally, there are two different situations for repotting: first, as the seedling grows, the root mass no longer has room to extend in the pot soil, so growth is restricted, and some roots often emerge through the drainage hole or are exposed above the ground. At this time, it should be moved from a small pot to a large pot. Second, for plants that have already fully grown, there is no need to change to a larger pot. It is only because after many years of cultivation, the original pot soil, through the selective absorption by the plant, retains a large amount of toxic substances (trioxides), causing the physical and chemical properties of the soil to deteriorate, and the entire pot soil is filled with old roots. At this time, repotting is only for trimming the root system, and during repotting only new culture soil is replaced; the pot does not need to be changed.
In addition, when moving from a small pot to a large pot, it should be changed gradually to a larger pot according to the size of plant development, and it should not be changed to a large pot all at once. Because doing so not only wastes labor and materials and has high cost, but also makes water difficult to regulate, causes poor aeration of the plant roots, makes growth insufficient, and may even cause leggy growth, delayed flower bud formation, and a lower flowering rate. Greenhouse flowers grow rapidly, and generally need to be repotted 2-3 times before flowering. More frequent repotting can make the plant stronger, fuller in growth, lower in height, and more compact in shape, but it will delay flowering. The last repotting before flowering is called final planting. For established red loropetalum potted flowers and bonsai, repot once every 2-3 years. If there are special needs, they can be repotted at any time or given an outer decorative pot to improve ornamental value. When repotting, separate the fingers of the left hand and press them at the base of the plant on the pot surface, lift the pot and turn it upside down, and gently tap the rim of the pot with the right hand, and the pot soil can be taken out. If it is difficult to take out, use an iron probe to gently pry around the pot, then turn the pot sideways, use the iron probe to push the tile over the drainage hole, and then invert the flower pot as before, and the pot soil can be lifted out together with the roots.
After the pot soil is taken out, scrape off part of the original soil from the plant, and cut off excessive and long old roots, dead roots, and coiled roots, but the gnarled and interlaced surface roots of the bonsai should remain as they are and must not be thinned out, otherwise it will damage the vigorous and antique ornamental value.
3. Turning pots
Turning pots is to regulate the light received by potted flowers in the greenhouse and to control and balance the growth vigor of the whole plant. In a single-slope greenhouse or an unequal-slope greenhouse, light mostly enters from the south. Therefore, if potted flowers placed in the greenhouse remain for too long, they often grow toward the light and lean toward the direction from which light enters. The degree and speed of this leaning are closely related to the growth speed of the plant. Potted flowers with fast growth also lean faster and to a greater degree. In order to prevent tilted growth of potted flowers and damage to the plant's original symmetrical and rounded shape, the direction of the flower pot should be changed after a certain number of days so that the plant tends to develop normally.
For flower pots placed in the open field, the phenomenon of growth toward light is not very obvious. Regularly turning the flower pots is mainly to prevent the plant root system from extending through the drainage hole into the ground and growing. If the flower pot is moved after too long a time, the roots extending outside the pot will be broken, affecting the normal growth of the potted flowers.
4. Loosening pot soil
Loosening the pot soil can loosen the soil surface that has become compacted due to continuous watering, which is beneficial to gas exchange and plant growth, and can also remove moss and weeds on the pot surface. The formation of moss affects air circulation on the pot surface and is unfavorable to plant growth. Once the pot surface is covered by moss, it is difficult to distinguish the moisture condition of the pot soil, making timely watering inconvenient. However, some people believe that moss can indicate the dry and wet state of the pot soil: yellow moss means lack of water, green moss means there is water, and it can also retain water and increase the beauty of the bonsai. Loosening the soil is an objective need, and in small and medium potted flowers it is better to remove the moss.
Use an iron probe or bamboo strip to loosen the soil, gently prying the surface soil. Do not pry the entire plant, to prevent root injury that causes wilting.
5. Fertilization
Base fertilizer is often applied when potting or repotting, and topdressing is applied during the growing period.
1. Organic fertilizer
(1) Cake fertilizer: an important fertilizer for potted flowers, often used as base fertilizer or topdressing, usually applied as liquid fertilizer or dry fertilizer. Preparation of liquid fertilizer: 5 kg cake meal, 25 kg water, 3 kg superphosphate, 20 kg human urine, 1 kg soybean cake or rapeseed cake, fully decomposed after 15-20 days, then diluted with water. When applying, determine the concentration according to climatic conditions and the growth of the potted flowers. Generally, when the temperature is low and the air humidity is high, the application concentration can be appropriately increased; otherwise, it should be thinner. Usually 10%-15% is preferable.
Dry application of cake fertilizer is mostly mixed into the culture soil and applied at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, or it can be fermented and buried around the flower pot as topdressing, and with watering it slowly decomposes and continuously supplies nutrients to the potted flowers.
(2) Human feces and urine: dried manure is a commonly used fertilizer for potted flowers (human feces is mixed with peat for fermentation, dried in the sun, and sieved to make dried manure for application). Dried manure powder mixed with culture soil can be used as base fertilizer for potting. The mixing amount varies with the type and size of the flower and tree. For red loropetalum seedlings, mix in 1 part; for potted stumps, about 2 parts. Dried manure can also be used as topdressing by scattering it on the pot surface or burying it around the flower pot, and the fertility can last as long as half a year. When used as liquid fertilizer, it is more easily absorbed by the plant, that is, add 10 times water to the dried manure, soak it in a vat, take the clarified liquid and dilute it with water before application.
(3) Hoof pieces and cattle and sheep horns: these are good organic slow-release fertilizers. Thin hoof pieces take effect in 1 month, and thick ones (such as cattle and sheep horns) take effect in 2 months. Usually they are crushed into pieces and placed at the bottom of the pot or around the pot edge as base fertilizer. Use thin slices from horse hooves trimmed in the north, soak them in human urine, add soybeans and cooked gypsum powder to promote fermentation, and after 1 month of application, dilute to a concentration of 10%. The effect is remarkable, and it has a red-promoting effect on red loropetalum, prolongs the flowering period, and makes the flower color more brilliant.
(4) Use fully decomposed cow dung (powdered), chicken manure, rice bran, and more than 2 times the amount of humus soil for pile fermentation. After 3-4 months, grind finely and sieve, mix into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or broadcast on the pot surface as topdressing. This fertilizer contains relatively more phosphorus and potassium, is suitable for application before flowering, and has a better effect than applying a single fertilizer.
2. Inorganic fertilizer
(1) Ammonium sulfate: a physiologically acidic fertilizer, mostly applied to acid-loving flowers and trees. It is a good topdressing for red loropetalum and rhododendron, can improve the properties of saline-alkali soil, and can be quickly absorbed by plants. It is a kind of quick-acting fertilizer, and the application concentration is 0.8%-1%.
(2) Superphosphate: commonly used as base fertilizer in greenhouse cultivation, applied at 4-5 grams per 1 square meter; when used as topdressing, dilute to 1% for application. Because phosphate fertilizer is easily fixed by soil, before flowering it can be sprayed on the leaves (in the morning) at a concentration of 2%.
(3) Potassium sulfate: can promote the mechanical function of stems and leaves, strengthen hydrolysis, and improve disease resistance. The fertilizer amount is 15-20 grams per square meter; when used as topdressing, 2-7 grams per square meter, diluted with 80 times water.
6. Watering
1) Different flower types require different amounts of watering. Red loropetalum is both waterlogging-tolerant and drought-tolerant, and is not as sensitive as other flowers regarding watering frequency and amount, but it still needs to be appropriately adjusted according to different seasons and different growth stages.
2) Different growth stages also have different water requirements. For red loropetalum entering dormancy, metabolism is weaker, and watering frequency and amount should be reduced or paused (not to the point of wilting); when turning from dormancy to growth (including relative dormancy), metabolic activity gradually strengthens, and at this time watering frequency should increase; during vigorous growth, watering should be sufficient; before flowering, watering should be controlled; during full bloom, water consumption increases and should be appropriately increased; during the fruiting stage, water should again be appropriately controlled, otherwise the seed maturation period will be delayed and the seeds will not be plump.
3) Water according to season. In spring, as the weather gradually warms, before flowers leave the greenhouse, ventilation should be gradually increased. Potted flowers evaporate easily, so watering should be more than in winter. Water red loropetalum seedlings once every 1-2 days, and potted stumps once every 3-4 days. In summer, red loropetalum has been moved from the greenhouse to under a shade shed, but the weather is hot and transpiration increases, so generally water once in the morning and once in the evening, and do not omit this. In summer, southern regions have relatively more rainfall, and sometimes it rains continuously for days. Pay attention that water does not accumulate in the pot. During heavy rain, tip the pot to one side, and set it upright in time after the rain. At the same time, observe the weather and water flexibly.
In autumn, when the weather begins to turn cool, potted flowers placed in the open can be watered once every 2-3 days, and fertilization should be stopped at the same time.
In winter, potted flowers are moved into the greenhouse. The watering frequency and amount can be determined according to the greenhouse temperature. At low temperature, water once every 5-7 days; at medium and high temperature, water once every 3-4 days. In places with stronger light and higher temperature, the amount of water can be appropriately increased.
4) Water according to pot size. The size of the flower pot and the height of the seedling frame affect the speed at which the pot soil dries. If the pot is small and the plant is large, the pot soil dries faster, so watering should be more and more frequent; otherwise, less.
The principle of watering is not to water unless dry, and once watering, it must penetrate thoroughly. Avoid watering multiple times without penetration each time, wetting only the surface layer and not the bottom of the pot, forming the phenomenon of "waist-cut water". This will affect the normal growth of the plant, and over time the whole plant will wilt.
7. Management
1. Arrangement of potted flowers in the greenhouse
The microclimate of the greenhouse changes with seasonal variation and artificial management conditions (heating, ventilation, watering). Therefore, the placement position of potted flowers in the greenhouse determines their requirements for light, temperature, and humidity. Only when their normal growth and development conditions are met can the expected results be obtained. Red loropetalum is both shade-tolerant and light-loving. In the arrangement in the greenhouse, as long as attention is paid to the order of height, with short ones in front and tall ones behind, so that they do not shade each other, it is fine. In addition, placing short plants in front and tall plants behind so that they do not shade each other is also one of the principles for arranging red loropetalum potted flowers in the greenhouse. In order to improve the utilization rate of the greenhouse, flat arrangement should be changed to three-dimensional placement, that is, from the highest part of the greenhouse, leave a certain gap and arrange in steps. In the limited space of the greenhouse, except for the central walkway, water pool, and heat source, all the rest should be effective area and generally must all be utilized.
2. Regulation of the greenhouse environment
The regulation of the greenhouse environment mainly includes three aspects: sunlight, temperature, and humidity.
(1) Temperature: In winter, in addition to making full use of the warmth and heat of sunlight, artificial heating is sometimes still needed, especially when severe cold arrives, even on sunny days heating is necessary.
Heating standards: determined according to different varieties and cultivation purposes. In general cultivation, start heating when the room temperature drops to 0°C; when forcing flowers, generally heat when it is below 15°C. If electric heating is used, it can be adjusted at any time, while heating by firepower is more convenient.
(2) Sunlight: Whether in a greenhouse or a plastic tunnel, shading is the best way to regulate sunlight intensity. The specific method is to add shade netting or straw mats. This method also has the effect of lowering temperature. The shading time is from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; on cloudy and rainy days, shading is not necessary.
(3) Humidity: To meet the humidity requirements of greenhouse flowers, water can be sprinkled on the ground, steps, and pot walls, and wet cloths can also be hung in the air to increase water evaporation. It is best to install automatic misting equipment to automatically regulate humidity. Generally, the relative humidity in the greenhouse is 50%-65%. If humidity is too high, it easily leads to disease and is unfavorable to flower growth. Ventilation can be used to reduce humidity, such as appropriately opening side windows at noon in winter to allow air circulation. But in severe cold seasons, cold air entering the greenhouse is most taboo, otherwise it will cause local freezing damage to flowers. Therefore, in winter, opening windows is best done when the difference between room temperature and outdoor temperature is not large.
Daily fertilizer and water management
Before transplanting red loropetalum, the fertilizer should be based mainly on fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, combined with broadcast application or hole application of compound fertilizer, and care should be taken to mix thoroughly to avoid root injury. During the growing season, use a neutral foliar fertilizer diluted 800-1000 times for foliar topdressing, spraying 2-3 times per month to promote new shoot growth. In the plum rain season in the south, attention should be paid to maintaining good drainage; in hot and dry seasons, ensure watering once each in the morning and evening, and combine with water spraying at noon to lower the temperature; in northern regions, because the soil and air are dry, water must be given in time to keep the soil moist, and in autumn, winter, and early spring, pay attention to spraying water to keep the leaf surface clean and moist.
Ways to enhance the ornamental characteristics of red loropetalum
Pruning. Red loropetalum has the characteristics of strong sprouting ability and tolerance of pruning. Carrying out light and moderate pruning in growing seasons such as early spring and early autumn, combined with normal water and fertilizer management, it can bloom after about 1 month, and the flowering period is concentrated. This method can promote new branches and new leaves, make the tree shape more beautiful, prolong the red leaf period, and can promote and control the flowering period. It is especially suitable for red loropetalum bonsai participating in flower exhibitions and trade fairs, can enhance the exhibition effect, and promote product sales.
Leaf removal and shoot pinching. During the growing season, remove the mature leaves and branch tips of red loropetalum. After about 10 days of normal management, new tender shoots can sprout again and bright red new leaves can grow.
Site selection for cultivation
Choose an environment with sufficient sunlight for cultivation, or thin out plants arranged to the southeast and above the red loropetalum, so that the red loropetalum can grow healthily under sufficient sunlight, making the flower color and leaf color more brilliant, thereby enhancing ornamental value.
Planting method
It can be used as a specimen plant, in clumps, or in mass plantings.
Specimen planting: Choose a tall, full plant and plant it alone in an important position or at a focal point of the line of sight, such as near an entrance, in a courtyard or on a lawn, forming a landscape on its own, and pay attention to creating a strong contrast with the surrounding landscape to achieve the effect of "a single red among ten thousand greens." It can serve as the central focal point of the landscape or guide the line of sight.
Clump planting: Plant Chinese fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) balls and other plants in clumps dotting the garden green space, which not only enriches the landscape colors but also enlivens the garden atmosphere. If planted in clumps with green tree species, it can add beauty to what is already beautiful. Planting mainly Chinese fringeflower balls in groups and patches forms a scenic forest; its unique leaf color and form are beautiful throughout all four seasons. Its beautifying effect is far better than that of a pure green scenic forest. [2]
Mass planting: color blocks and carpet flower beds: Use annual Chinese fringeflower seedlings densely planted in green space to form color blocks. They can be combined with golden privet, spring-flowering azaleas, summer-flowering azaleas, golden-leaf elm, golden-edge boxwood, etc., which not only forms color contrast through the contrast in leaf color but also allows the flowering periods to be staggered. For this type of use, the Tonggu Hong series should be selected.
Propagation methods of Chinese fringeflower: grafting propagation
Two methods are mainly used: cut grafting and bud grafting. Grafting can be carried out from February to October. Cut grafting is best done before sprouting in spring, while bud grafting is best done in September to October. Using medium and small white fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense) plants as rootstock for multi-head grafting, with strengthened water and fertilizer management and pruning management, they can leave the nursery within 1 year.
Cutting propagation
It can be carried out from March to September. Use loose loess as the cutting substrate, ensure that the cutting substrate is well ventilated and permeable and that air humidity is high, keep it warm but avoid direct sunlight, and at the same time pay attention to ventilation and air permeability in the cutting environment. Under warm and humid conditions, Chinese fringeflower cuttings form red callus in 20 to 25 days, and after 1 month grow 3 to 9 new roots 0.1 cm thick and 1 to 6 cm long. The cutting method has a high propagation coefficient, but the growth is weaker and the time to leave the nursery is longer, while multi-head grafted seedlings have strong growth vigor and leave the nursery quickly as finished seedlings, but are more labor-intensive. Softwood cuttings are taken from May to August, using semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut into 7 to 10 cm long cuttings with a heel, and inserted 1/3 into the soil; the cutting bed substrate can be perlite or a mixture of 2 parts river sand and 6 parts loess or mountain soil. After insertion, build a frame for shade, spray water in a timely manner, and keep the soil moist; roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Seed propagation
Sow in spring and summer. Chinese fringeflower seeds have a high germination rate, germinate about 25 days after sowing, and can grow to 6 to 20 cm tall in 1 year, producing 3 to 6 branches. The new roots of Chinese fringeflower seedlings are red and fleshy, and careful management is required in the early stage until the root system becomes lignified and turns brown, only then can extensive management begin. Sexual propagation, because of its long seedling stage, slow growth, and the appearance of white fringeflower seedlings (atavism), is generally not used for seedling production, but for Chinese fringeflower breeding research. Seeds are generally harvested in October, sown in winter in November, or sealed and dry-stored until sowing the following spring. After rubbing the seed coat with sand, the seeds are drilled in a semi-sandy soil seedbed, and germinate about 25 days after sowing, with a relatively low germination rate. One-year-old seedlings can reach 6 to 20 cm in height and produce 3 to 6 branches. After 2 years, they can leave the nursery for field planting.
Disease control of Chinese fringeflower: main pests of Chinese fringeflower
These include aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, Daopan noctuid moths, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles. Chinese fringeflower has a relatively strong ability to resist pests and diseases, but branch dieback and insect damage have also been found during cultivation. According to investigation, the former is mostly caused by damage from planthoppers, while the latter is a symptom of damage by star longhorn beetles and brown longhorn beetles.
1. Condition: Aphids affect plant growth and induce sooty mold.
Control method: To control aphids, spray 5% diesel emulsion or 3 to 5 degrees Baume lime-sulfur mixture before sprouting to kill overwintering adults and eggs. Spray the second application after flowers fall, and the third application in October in autumn.
2. Condition: Geometrid moths and noctuid moths damage leaves as larvae, and in severe cases can eat all tender shoots in 2 to 3 days.
Control method: To control geometrid and noctuid larvae, spray 50% methamidophos 1500-fold solution, and control them early and while they are small.
3. Condition: Cutworms and scarab beetles bore into and feed on the root system as larvae. Cutworms mainly harm cuttings and seedlings, while scarab beetles harm large, medium, and small seedlings.
Control method: The larvae of cutworms and scarab beetles are underground pests. The control method is to strengthen nursery management and not apply immature organic fertilizer. Plow in winter to turn overwintering larvae to the surface to freeze to death. Use 3% carbofuran granules at a rate of 2 kg per mu, applied in furrows 10 to 20 cm deep in the soil.
Planthoppers
Planthoppers often use their ovipositors to cut Chinese fringeflower branches and lay eggs in the branch tissues, which is one of the main causes of branch dieback. Planthoppers also use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to pierce the tissues of Chinese fringeflower branches and suck sap, causing damaged branches and leaves to wither and die.
There are 4 control methods for planthoppers
1. Spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution during the damage period.
2. After winter begins, thoroughly remove surrounding weeds and fallen leaves, and burn them in a centralized manner to eliminate overwintering pests.
3. In combination with pruning, cut off damaged branches and leaves and burn them promptly to reduce insect sources.
4. Protect the natural enemies of planthoppers, such as birds, ladybugs, parasitic wasps, etc. Longhorn beetles have omnivorous feeding habits; adults gnaw on the tender bark of Chinese fringeflower branches and trunks, and larvae bore into and feed on the trunk, mostly entering from the base of the trunk. Damaged branches and trunks form holes, and the tunnels are filled with wood chips and insect frass. Manual capture of adults and hook-killing of larvae are generally adopted for control.
Common diseases of Chinese fringeflower
Anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: It mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf fall. Damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinonema. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary source of infection for the disease the following year.
Control methods: a. Remove diseased leaves and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce the source of disease. b. Improve management, strengthen field drainage, prune appropriately, and improve light and ventilation conditions. c. Chemical treatment: spray 70% thiophanate-methyl 1000-fold solution or 75% chlorothalonil 800 to 1000-fold solution; zineb 800 to 1000-fold solution has a good control effect. If spraying multiple times, it should be used alternately to prevent resistance.
Damping-off
A serious disease during the seedling stage. It can harm plants from seedlings to mature plants. The pathogen invades young plant branches from the base and roots. Dark brown lesions appear at the damaged areas and become water-soaked. The bark and woody layer are easily peeled off, and then constriction occurs and they turn dark brown and die. The pathogen is a fungus.
Control methods: a. Use disease-free new soil for transplanting, sowing, or cutting, and disinfect the soil. b. Pull out and destroy diseased plants. Fertilizer used must be thoroughly decomposed. Fresh household manure must not be used as base fertilizer. c. Before transplanting or planting, spread 20% quintozene powder mixed with fine soil at a ratio of 1:30 onto the seedbed soil, or use dexon at 4 to 6 grams per square meter.
Mosaic disease
Old and new leaves appear alternately white and mottled. Mosaic disease is caused by a virus and can be treated with virus A or other antiviral agents.
Cultivar classification of Chinese fringeflower
Chinese fringeflower can be divided into three major categories, fifteen types, and forty-one cultivars.
Nenye Hong
The third-generation Chinese fringeflower, commonly known as Danmian Hong, belongs to the early cultivation type. Because this type of Chinese fringeflower has relatively poor flower and leaf ornamental value, it has gradually been eliminated in production, but it has strong ecological adaptability, especially strong resistance to high temperatures, cold, and barren conditions, and can be used as original material for cultivar breeding.
Tougu Hong
The fourth-generation Chinese fringeflower is a mutant cultivar type selected on the basis of the first category of cultivars using asexual breeding technology. The red leaves have a long period of returning to green in summer. The phloem and xylem of new shoots are both purplish red. Fibrous roots are purplish red. It flowers three to four times a year, with a total flowering period of 105 to 130 days throughout the year. Within this category, according to characteristics such as leaf size, branch density, and flowering period, 7 types are divided: Changye Tougu Hong, Mizhi Tougu Hong, Shuzhi Tougu Hong, Xiye Tougu Hong, Banye Tougu Hong, Dongyan Tougu Hong, and Fudi Tougu Hong. Within each type, 25 cultivars are further divided according to characteristics such as flower color and petal morphology. This category of cultivars has the longest flowering period, rich flower types, the most brilliant flower colors, dense branches, and is easy to shape, and can be used to create color sculptures and small to medium-sized shrub balls. The two cultivars Xiye Zihong and Xiye Lianghong are particularly suitable for cultivating miniature bonsai and for grafting to cultivate large tree stumps. The Dongyan Hong type is the only cultivar that flowers in winter and has very high ornamental value.
Shuangmian Hong
The fifth-generation Chinese fringeflower, commonly known as Daye Hong, is a mutant cultivar type selected on the basis of the second category of cultivars using asexual breeding technology. Main characteristics: leaves are the largest, 3 to 9 cm long and 1.5 to 5 cm wide, petioles 2.5 to 4 mm long, new leaves purplish red, mature leaves purplish black on the upper surface and purplish red on the underside, leaf surface with few hairs, red, bright, and glossy, and a short period of red leaves returning to green in summer. Branching is moderate, and the phloem and xylem of new shoots are purplish red with a high fiber content. Fibrous roots are purplish black. It flowers 3 times a year. The spring flowering period is late, with the first flowering stage in late February, and the full flowering stage from early April to early May, with 78 to 95 days of flowering throughout the year. Within this category, according to characteristics such as leaf size and shape and branching angle, 4 types are divided: Daye Hong, Jianye Hong, Fudi Hong, and Qiaoye Hong. Within each type, 7 cultivars are further divided according to obvious characteristics such as flower color and petal morphology. This category of cultivars has large, red, and glossy leaves and very high ornamental value. The 4 cultivars 'Daye Hong', 'Daye Meihong', 'Jianye Hong', and 'Daye Juanban Hong', which have moderate branching and relatively fast growth, are suitable for cultivating large color sculptures and shrub balls.
Distribution area of Chinese fringeflower
Chinese fringeflower is mainly distributed in China in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and areas to the south, and is produced in Liuyang City and Changsha County in Hunan, and Suzhou, Wuxi, Yixing, Liyang, and Jurong in Jiangsu.
Chinese fringeflower is also distributed in northern India.
Uses of Chinese fringeflower: ornamental value
Chinese fringeflower has luxuriant branches and leaves, a beautiful form, tolerance to pruning, and tolerance to wiring. It can be used for hedges and can also be used to make tree-stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is full of red flowers, which is extremely spectacular. Chinese fringeflower is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red. Different lines differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the different effects brought by the two factors of leaf color and leaf size are mainly considered.
Chinese fringeflower is a precious native colorful-leaf ornamental plant unique to Hunan. It has strong ecological adaptability, tolerates pruning, and is easy to shape. It is widely used in color hedges, carpet flower beds, shrub balls, small colorful-leaf trees, stump landscape shaping, bonsai, and other urban greening and beautification.
Economic value
The industrial development of Chinese fringeflower in China has a history of more than 20 years, and Hunan is the central production area. In 2004, the province's production area was 3,500 hectares, with an annual output of 500 million seedlings and annual sales of 600 million yuan. After many years of promotion and application, in 2004 China's Chinese fringeflower production area reached 6,000 hectares, with an annual output of 800 million seedlings and annual sales of 900 million yuan. Products are sold to more than 20 provinces and cities and exported to Japan, South Korea, Singapore, the United States, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, France, Germany, and Italy, becoming one of the specialty products of China's flower industry.
Chinese fringeflower is a variety of Loropetalum chinense in the genus Loropetalum of the family Hamamelidaceae. It is an evergreen shrub or small tree, unique to the evergreen broad-leaved forest zone at an altitude of 100 to 400 m in the Luoxiao Mountains at the border of Hunan and Jiangxi. It was discovered and named by the late famous forester Professor Ye Peizhong in spring 1938 at Tianxin Park in Changsha. According to research, the tree from which the type specimen was collected was a wild plant transplanted by the park in spring 1935 from Dawei Mountain in Liuyang. This tree still exists; it is now 5 m tall, with a diameter at breast height of 20 cm, a crown diameter of 42 sq m, and a tree age of about 150 years. Due to many years of digging, wild resources are on the verge of extinction and it has been listed as a key protected plant in Hunan Province.
The use of wild Chinese fringeflower resources in Hunan has a history of more than 70 years. In the early 1930s, farmers in the Dawei Mountain area of Liuyang dug up wild seedlings and sold them to Changsha, Xiangtan, Zhuzhou, and other places, and some garden departments within the province also came to Liuyang to purchase wild seedlings. In 1963, units such as Changsha Yuelu Park succeeded in cultivating seedlings by the branch layering method; in 1978, Changsha Martyrs' Park succeeded in raising seedlings from seeds, but the genetic stability of seedlings was not strong, with 15.8% reverting to Loropetalum chinense, so seed propagation is rarely used in production; in 1982, the Changsha City Nursery succeeded in raising seedlings by cutting tender shoot branches. Because cuttings can maintain the superior traits of the mother plant, can be cut multiple times within a year, and can be propagated in large quantities, this technology has been widely used in seedling production since the 1980s.
The large-scale production of Chinese fringeflower seedlings began in Yonghe Town, Liuyang. In 1983, local farmers took advantage of the abundant wild Chinese fringeflower resources from Yonghe Town to Dawei Mountain and began relatively large-scale production of a series of products such as cutting seedlings, transplanted seedlings, shrub balls, bonsai, and old-stump grafted trees, which drove the formation and development of the industrialization of Chinese fringeflower throughout the province. In October 1999, the Organizing Committee for the Recommendation and Publicity Campaign of China's Hometowns of Specialty Products awarded Liuyang City the honorary title of "China's Hometown of Chinese Fringeflower," greatly enhancing the domestic and international visibility of Hunan Chinese fringeflower, and Chinese fringeflower became one of China's specialty flower brand products.
Garden uses of Chinese fringeflower
Chinese fringeflower is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red. Different lines differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the different effects brought by the two factors of leaf color and leaf size are mainly considered.
Chinese fringeflower has brilliant leaf color all year round, with abundant branches and leaves, and is especially magnificent and extremely eye-catching when in bloom. It is an ornamental tree beautiful in both flower and leaf. It is often used for color block arrangements or pruned into spherical shapes, and is also a good material for making bonsai.
The small-leaf type of Chinese fringeflower is suitable for bonsai making. On the one hand, because its branches and leaves are uniformly distributed, it is conducive to binding and shaping; on the other hand, its growth is relatively slow, so the amount of pruning is small, which can reduce the number of prunings and make it easy to maintain uniform and neat branches and leaves, and it can be enjoyed for both flowers and foliage. This type of bonsai has a good ornamental effect and a long ornamental period.
There are 2 ways to make Chinese fringeflower bonsai: use Chinese fringeflower cuttings to shape and cultivate small bonsai, and use white fringeflower stumps for grafting and shaping to cultivate medium, large, or even extra-large bonsai. Types whose leaf color is red all year round (that is, the leaf color is red from new leaves to mature leaves) are suitable as "ever-red" plants - different from autumn-color tree species - for color treatment in garden greening, mainly for the treatment of red color blocks, red lines, etc. in carpet flower beds. This type of Chinese fringeflower can also be used in garden greening as specimen planting, opposite planting, mass planting, or combined with other foliage plants and flowering plants to highlight its characteristics of red flowers and red leaves. Against the background of green lawns, and set off by other flowering groundcovers or other plant backgrounds and architectural backgrounds, it highlights its gorgeous red flowers and red leaves and creates a visual focus.
In addition, this type of Chinese fringeflower can also be enjoyed as a potted plant, used for flower bed display, balcony and room beautification, etc. Types whose leaf color changes with the seasons (that is, the leaf color gradually changes from the flesh-red of new leaves to the dark green of mature leaves) are suitable as ordinary greening tree species, planted in sunny places to fully display the beauty of their leaf color changes, create seasonal landscapes, and highlight the characteristics of different seasons. This type of Chinese fringeflower can also be used in combination with autumn-color tree species to form a unique contrasting effect. In spring, the leaf color of Chinese fringeflower is bright red, while autumn-color tree species are tender green or verdant; in autumn, when the leaf color of Chinese fringeflower turns green, it contrasts pleasingly with the rosy red and golden yellow of autumn-color tree species, which is thought-provoking. Chinese fringeflower is beautiful in both flower and leaf, with rich changes in scenery throughout the four seasons. It can be used in formal gardens, such as carpet flower beds and formal shaped trees, and can also be planted as a specimen or in clumps to show its natural beauty. It is also an excellent bonsai tree species, and therefore has very high garden application value.
Shrub balls
Prune Chinese fringeflower into spherical shapes and arrange them in green belts. Shrub balls are mainly divided into two types: rough balls and fine balls. Rough balls are mainly formed after 1 to 3 years of pruning and shaping and are mainly used in large green spaces with relatively extensive management; fine balls must undergo at least 3 years of pruning and shaping and are mainly used in refined gardens such as villa courtyards. For this type of use, the Tougu Hong series should be selected.
Color hedges
Densely plant Chinese fringeflower into color hedges to serve the functions of enclosure and space separation. The seedling specifications should be selected according to the specific use of the color hedge. For example, a 70 to 80 cm color hedge can be selected to separate space in green spaces, while color hedges higher than 2 m are mostly used on the periphery of green spaces to serve as a green wall.
Large color sculptures
Directionally cultivate or shape Chinese fringeflower into green sculptures such as animals and geometric shapes, and place them in green spaces as garden ornaments. For this type of use, the Tougu Hong series should be selected.
Stump landscapes
Taking advantage of the characteristics of the Shuangmian Hong type of Chinese fringeflower, such as fast growth, large leaves, and sparse branches, directionally cultivate it into large stump landscapes for greening in high-end gardens, and it can also be used as the focal point of a flower bed for landscaping.
Street trees in residential communities
Through pruning control, Chinese fringeflower can be cultivated into small colorful-leaf trees, and it can also be cultivated by grafting onto white fringeflower, mostly used as street trees in residential communities. For this type of use, the Tougu Hong series should be selected.
Cultural background of Chinese fringeflower: industry market
Chinese fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum Yieh) is a precious native colorful-leaf ornamental plant unique to Hunan, with red flowers and red leaves, brilliant colors, 3 to 4 flowering periods a year, strong ecological adaptability, tolerance to pruning, and easy shaping. It is widely used in color hedges, carpet flower beds, shrub balls, small colorful-leaf trees, stump landscape shaping, bonsai, and other urban greening and beautification. The industrial development of Chinese fringeflower in China has a history of more than 20 years, and Hunan is the central production area. In 2004, the province's production area was 3,500 hm2, with an annual output of 500 million seedlings and annual sales of 600 million yuan. After many years of promotion and application, in 2004 China's Chinese fringeflower production area reached 6,000 hm2, with an annual output of 800 million seedlings and annual sales of 900 million yuan. Products are sold to more than 20 provinces and cities and exported to Japan, South Korea, Singapore, the United States, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, France, Germany, and Italy, becoming one of the specialty products of China's flower industry. The industrialization of Chinese fringeflower in China is facing a transformation from quantity growth to quality and efficiency. This article summarizes the history and current status of its industrial development and puts forward several suggestions for future development directions.
Overview of the development of the Chinese fringeflower industry
1. Development and utilization of wild resources
Chinese fringeflower is a variety of Loropetalum chinense in the genus Loropetalum of the family Hamamelidaceae. It is an evergreen shrub or small tree, unique to the evergreen broad-leaved forest zone at an altitude of 100 to 400 m in the Luoxiao Mountains at the border of Hunan and Jiangxi. It was discovered and named by the late famous forester Professor Ye Peizhong in spring 1938 at Tianxin Park in Changsha. According to research, the tree from which the type specimen was collected was a wild plant transplanted by the park in spring 1935 from Dawei Mountain in Liuyang. This tree still exists; it is now 5 m tall, with a diameter at breast height of 20 cm, a crown diameter of 42 sq m, and a tree age of about 150 years. Due to many years of digging, wild resources are on the verge of extinction and it has been listed as a key protected plant in Hunan Province.
The use of wild Chinese fringeflower resources in Hunan has a history of more than 70 years. In the early 1930s, farmers in the Dawei Mountain area of Liuyang dug up wild seedlings and sold them to Changsha, Xiangtan, Zhuzhou, and other places, and some garden departments within the province also came to Liuyang to purchase wild seedlings. In 1963, units such as Changsha Yuelu Park succeeded in cultivating seedlings by the branch layering method; in 1978, Changsha Martyrs' Park succeeded in raising seedlings from seeds, but the genetic stability of seedlings was not strong, with 15.8% reverting to Loropetalum chinense, so seed propagation is rarely used in production; in 1982, the Changsha City Nursery succeeded in raising seedlings by cutting tender shoot branches. Because cuttings can maintain the superior traits of the mother plant, can be cut multiple times within a year, and can be propagated in large quantities, this technology has been widely used in seedling production since the 1980s. The large-scale production of Chinese fringeflower seedlings began in Yonghe Town, Liuyang. In 1983, local farmers took advantage of the abundant wild Chinese fringeflower resources from Yonghe Town to Dawei Mountain and began relatively large-scale production of a series of products such as cutting seedlings, transplanted seedlings, shrub balls, bonsai, and old-stump grafted trees, which drove the formation and development of the industrialization of Chinese fringeflower throughout the province. In October 1999, the Organizing Committee for the Recommendation and Publicity Campaign of China's Hometowns of Specialty Products awarded Liuyang City the honorary title of "China's Hometown of Chinese Fringeflower," greatly enhancing the domestic and international visibility of Hunan Chinese fringeflower, and Chinese fringeflower became one of China's specialty flower brand products.
2. Overview of cultivar breeding at home and abroad
In the early 1980s, flower farmers in Yonghe Town had already begun to pay attention to selecting wild trees with relatively good flower and leaf color for cultivation and propagation. In 1985, local flower farmers used bud sport branches and, through cutting propagation, bred a cultivar with small, red, and glossy leaves, a short period of red leaves returning to green in summer, and brilliant flower color. This was the first cultivated cultivar bred at home and abroad. In the mid-1990s, as the cultivation area continued to expand, flower farmers in Liuyang City and Changsha County, the central production areas, used natural variation materials to breed another 30 cultivated cultivars. For the convenience of market sales, relatively rough classification and naming were carried out. They are collectively called the "five generations" of cultivars: the first generation refers to transplanted wild Chinese fringeflower, the second generation refers to Chinese fringeflower propagated from wild tree branches, the third generation refers to the early-bred Nenye Hong cultivars, the fourth generation refers to the Tougu Hong cultivars bred from Nenye Hong cultivars, and the fifth generation refers to the Shuangmian Hong cultivars bred from Tougu Hong cultivars. Although the terms are not scientific, they objectively reflect the evolution and development history of Chinese fringeflower cultivar types.
Since the early 1990s, the Hunan Academy of Forestry has relied on Hunan's abundant Chinese fringeflower cultivar resources to establish China's first Chinese fringeflower cultivar gene bank, collect 53 materials, and carry out cultivar genetic stability tests and classification and naming. Using Professor Chen Junyu's "dual classification" theory for flower cultivars, based on cultivar evolution relationships and horticultural classification characteristics, it established the "Key to the Classification System of Chinese Fringeflower" and named 3 major categories, 15 types, and 41 cultivars. Using clonal breeding technology combining physical and chemical mutagenesis and selection of natural variation, it bred 10 new cultivars with ornamental value and stress resistance exceeding the original cultivars, such as 'Daye Hong', and proposed matching large-scale and standardized seedling production technology. In 2002, this achievement passed provincial-level appraisal and won the first prize for scientific and technological achievements at the First Hunan Flower Expo and Trade Fair and the third prize for provincial scientific and technological progress. In 2003, 10 new cultivars were approved by the State Forestry Administration as national-level superior cultivars that can be promoted on a large scale in the Yangtze River basin and areas to the south. In the same year, "Promotion of New Cultivars and Propagation Technology of Chinese Fringeflower" was listed as a key scientific and technological achievement promotion project of the State Forestry Administration.
Japan and the United States introduced Chinese fringeflower from China in 1983 and 1989 respectively. Japan bred and registered 2 cultivars in 1992, and the United States bred and registered 15 cultivars by 1998. Both countries use softwood cuttings and soilless cultivation technology for container seedlings to carry out cultivar patenting and large-scale production. American products are sold to Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and other countries.
Flower language of Chinese fringeflower
Flower language of Chinese fringeflower: wealth, happiness, and companionship for a lifetime.
Pictures of Chinese fringeflower