Kalanchoe: Detailed Guide to Techniques for Growing a Full Pot and Water Propagation Methods
Kalanchoe is a plant that many people really love. If a large pot held only a single kalanchoe plant, how lonely that would be. Let's take a look at how to grow kalanchoe into a full pot. Just propagate more and it will soon be full:
1. Stem cutting propagation
Kalanchoe can be propagated in all four seasons, as long as the temperature is above 15°C; between 20 and 30°C the success rate of propagation is higher.
In places with cold weather, you can choose to propagate in summer and autumn. Stem cutting propagation is relatively common; you can cut back leggy branches to propagate more plants.
Some kalanchoe plants grow too tall and actually become less likely to bloom. We can cut them into segments of about 7 cm each, remove the lower leaves from the stem, and place them in a shaded, ventilated spot. Let the wounds dry slightly before carrying out cutting propagation.
As shown in the picture above, the success rate of stem cuttings of kalanchoe treated this way will be very high. For the growing medium, choose peat soil to perlite at a 1:1 ratio, or you can also use leaf mold mixed with river sand at a 1:1 ratio for cuttings.
Insert the cutting stem 3 cm into the soil. The potting soil should be slightly moist, not too wet, and definitely not waterlogged. Afterward, place it in a bright spot, and water again only when the potting soil is dry. After two weeks, start giving it a little light.
2. Leaf cutting propagation
Leaf cutting propagation uses the relatively thick, robust leaves from the lower part of the kalanchoe stem for cuttings. If the leaf has a bit of petiole attached, the sprouting rate will be higher; a slightly damaged leaf will not affect sprouting and rooting.
After the wound on the petiole dries, insert it diagonally into the soil about 2 cm, or simply lay it flat on the soil surface with the front side facing up, keeping the soil slightly moist, not wet.
Use the same growing medium as for stem cuttings above, just make sure it is not waterlogged. Before long, the small sprouts shown below will grow. Patient care is needed. After the seedlings emerge, gradually reduce watering and give a little weak, indirect light.
3. Water propagation
Water propagation means placing a section of stem or a petiole in water, soaking it until roots form, and then either transplanting it or continuing to grow it in water.
The handling of the stem and leaves is the same as in propagation methods 1 and 2 above. After handling, soak the stem or petiole about 2 cm in water, making sure the leaf surface does not get wet. Change the water once every 5 days. Once the roots reach 3 to 5 cm, they can be transplanted into soil.
(As shown in the picture above)
4. Division propagation
Division propagation is even simpler. You only need to transplant the side shoots and some divided plants with soil and roots when repotting.
You can choose to repot in August to September, so it will not affect the flowering period of the kalanchoe. For a kalanchoe that is growing very lushly, you can use a sterilized sharp knife to cut off excess branches with roots and transplant them into other containers. After potting, keep the potting soil slightly moist, not wet.
If you want more blooms, in addition to applying light fertilizer frequently, you also need to pinch the tops appropriately to control the plant shape and promote branching and flower bud formation.
That is all for the methods to grow this kalanchoe into a full pot. In summary, it all comes down to propagation.
Can Kalanchoe Be Grown in Water? Water Culture and Propagation Methods
Can kalanchoe be grown in water? To use an old saying, theoretically all plants can be grown in water, and kalanchoe is no exception. Moreover, the method is very simple. This article will introduce the water culture method for kalanchoe as well as the water cutting propagation method.
Can kalanchoe be grown in water?
First, water culture of kalanchoe falls into two situations: one is rooting in water and then planting in soil, and the other is growing it in water continuously like a hydroponic plant. Let's go through both.
Kalanchoe Water Culture Growing Methods
1. Rooting in water: this is fairly simple. Just take any branch and insert it into clean water. Within a few days, white roots will grow. If you want to transplant, it is best to let the roots dry a little before planting. However, rooting in water and then transplanting is a bit of an unnecessary extra step, because kalanchoe cuttings are very easy and the survival rate is very high even without water rooting.
2. Growing kalanchoe in water: this is also very simple. Pick a branch with a relatively attractive plant shape and insert it into a water culture bottle. Generally, change the water once a week and rinse the roots (of course, just topping up the water is also fine). Some gardening friends may doubt: is it really that simple? It really is that simple. Kalanchoe is inherently a very easy plant to care for. As for whether to put some clay pebbles in the water culture bottle later, that all depends on your own creativity!
Kalanchoe Water Propagation Methods
(1) Benefits of water propagation for kalanchoe
1. It is easy to observe the rooting status at any time;
2. It roots easily, and the rooting speed is more than twice as fast as soil cuttings. The fastest varieties can produce roots in 3 days to 1 week, and can be transferred to soil cultivation in 15 days. Slower varieties can also root in 10 to 15 days if nothing goes wrong, and can be transferred to soil in less than 1 month;
3. Water culture is more flexible than soil cuttings. It can be done at any time of the year, and you can change or add water at any time. You will not worry as with soil cuttings about excessive moisture causing branch rot or insufficient humidity preventing root formation. Because the rooting time is short, it also reduces the chance of infection by pathogens, meaning the rooting survival rate is higher than with soil cuttings, especially in summer and autumn;
4. With soil cuttings, the growth of the terminal bud pauses, and all nutrients are supplied to wound healing and rooting, which can lead to some leaves wilting and dropping and the terminal bud turning black at the tip. New shoots only grow again after rooting. In water culture, however, terminal bud growth and rooting proceed simultaneously, and after transfer to soil the plant can quickly enter seedling-stage management.
After kalanchoe roots in water, it still has to pass the hurdle of being transferred to soil cultivation, but as long as the medium is sterilized and care is taken not to damage the roots when transplanting the seedlings, the survival rate after potting can generally reach 100%.
(2) Preparation before water propagation of kalanchoe cuttings
1. Prepare the cuttings and let the cut ends air-dry naturally for 1 night or 1 day;
2. Wash and disinfect the seedling box, etc., and fill it 8 parts full with cooled boiled water;
3. Drill the insertion holes in the sterilized foam; use 2 drops of alcohol to dissolve a little rooting powder (because rooting powder does not dissolve easily in water!);
4. Dip the end of the cutting stem in rooting powder, then insert them separately into the holes and secure them. All leaves should be above the foam;
5. Remember to make labels. Gently place them flat into the seedling box;
6. If cutting in winter, you can put on the transparent seedling box lid; in summer and autumn no lid is needed. Then move the seedling box to a bright place and wait for rooting.
(3) Precautions
1. Selecting the cuttings is the basic prerequisite for ensuring high-quality potted flowers. For branches used in water culture, the ideal cutting is a healthy, sturdy, plump terminal bud about 10 to 15 cm long, with 2 to 3 nodes and 3 to 4 or more pairs of leaves (see picture 1 below). It is best to cut between nodes (see the red line in picture 2 below) or about 1 cm below a node. The cut surface should be slanted at about a 45° angle to create the largest cross-sectional area. If the terminal bud is a flowering shoot, cut off the spent flowers. It is best if the cutting has more than 1 cm of stem below it. If the lowest pair of leaves interferes with the insertion hole, it can be removed, while the remaining leaves should be kept as much as possible;
2. The cut wounds on the branches, terminal buds, and petioles used before water culture must air-dry naturally for more than 4 hours. This is determined by the characteristics of succulent plants; otherwise the wounds easily turn black and rot, causing rooting failure. Generally, herbaceous and woody cuttings must not be dehydrated for too long, to avoid air entering the vascular bundles and blocking water transport. Therefore herbaceous and woody cuttings should be planted after only brief drying at most. If the leaves wilt, it is best to soak them so the branches and leaves become firm again, indicating that water transport is unobstructed, before proceeding to the next step. But remember that kalanchoe cuttings absolutely must not be soaked in water before planting; instead they need a certain degree of air-drying. Even if the leaf skin wrinkles and wilts, it does not matter; on the contrary, they root more easily. For kalanchoe branches mailed from elsewhere, no moisture-retention treatment is needed. After several days of transport, the wounds will have naturally dried and shriveled by arrival, and at that point they are perfect for cutting. Do not overdo it by following herbaceous flower cutting practices, such as cutting off the dried parts and then soaking them in fungicide or rooting solution. In the south, where air humidity is high, I generally cut them the previous night and plant them on the second or third day. (I once left side bulbs of a cactus succulent that a neighbor broke off for me on top of a shelf for as long as a month before placing them on moist soil to root, and there was no problem at all.)
3. The water container, the foam used to hold the cuttings, and the bamboo skewers used for the holes should be washed and dried before water culture. It is even better if they can be rinsed once with potassium permanganate solution for disinfection. When cutting, I also wear disposable film gloves, and after the cuttings are secured I try not to touch the water surface with my hands.
4. The water used for cuttings, from best to worst, is: bottled mineral water (of course the kind from a major brand with quality assurance; if you do not have that, it goes directly behind tap water) → cooled boiled water → filtered water from a household water purifier (the kind that can filter heavy metals, impurities, and some harmful substances) → bottled drinking water → tap water. Sometimes I use cooled boiled water made from filtered water, and sometimes I just use filtered water directly. During the rooting process, pay attention to keeping the water clean. For the first two days, it is best to change the water once a day.
5. During water culture, use a bamboo skewer to make holes in the foam (preferably the kind with high density that is hard and thin). The hole spacing should be just enough for the cutting stem to be inserted without wobbling. The bottom of the stem should protrude below the lower layer of foam, meaning it must be immersed in water. The leaves on the branch above the foam should rest just above the hole, meaning the leaves must not be submerged in water. During the later rooting process, also try to keep the leaves dry.
6. After inserting, try to keep the cuttings stable and stationary. Do not move them for no reason or frequently take them out to inspect.
7. The upper part of the water culture does not need shading and can receive normal sunlight. Photosynthesis will actually speed up rooting. If the water level in the container drops, add water promptly (especially when using a beverage bottle for cuttings). Do not let the cuttings stay out of the water for too long. I like to use a seedling box with an opaque bottom (see picture 4), because the reference materials I checked show that a bottom that receives no light better simulates the dark underground environment and helps rooting (in other words, it tricks the plant!). If using a transparent beverage bottle, you can wrap the bottle body with a black plastic bag. Also, with a seedling box you can insert many cuttings at once. The foam floats on the water surface and automatically follows water level changes, so you do not have to worry as with a beverage bottle about the cuttings becoming suspended and separated from the water.
How to Grow Kalanchoe: Kalanchoe Cultivation Methods
How to Grow Kalanchoe: Kalanchoe Cultivation Methods
Kalanchoe (scientific name: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), also known as jialehua,dwarf kalanchoe、Christmas kalanchoe, shouxinghua,Blossfeld's kalanchoe, belongs to the Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe genus, and is native to Madagascar in Africa. Kalanchoe is a common ornamental flower.
Propagation
It can be propagated by cuttings and by seed. For cuttings, both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings can be used, but stem cuttings are more convenient and quicker. For stem cuttings, first cut off a healthy terminal bud about 5 to 6 cm long. After the wound heals, insert it into the growing medium, keep the soil moist and the air circulating, and when the temperature is above 30°C spray water to cool it down. Roots form after about 2 weeks, and then fertilizing can begin. For leaf cuttings, select a healthy, plump leaf and cut it off. Place the cut leaf in a cool, shaded place for about half an hour until the wound dries and heals, then insert it shallowly or lay it flat on breathable sandy soil, keeping the sandy soil semi-moist and never too wet, otherwise it easily rots. When the air is dry or cold, you can cover it with a transparent film to retain moisture and warmth. Place it in a spot with soft sunlight and good ventilation. Roots can form within one month, and sprouts can appear in four months.
Seed propagation is usually only used in the early stages of developing horticultural cultivars. Kalanchoe is mostly sown in March. Simply scatter the seeds on moist soil, gently press the seeds onto the soil surface, then cover with a transparent plastic bag to retain moisture and place in a sunny spot, but not under strong light. Germination begins after about ten days, at which point the plastic bag can be removed, but take care not to let the soil become too dry. If the air is dry, spray a mist to retain moisture. After eight pairs of leaves have grown, it can be moved to a full-sun or half-sun location for normal management.
Planting
Kalanchoe likes a growing environment with ample sunlight but short day length, and is suitable for planting in full sun to half sun. Placed in a dark spot, it easily becomes leggy. At midday in hot summer, avoid direct sunlight to prevent burning the leaves. Its growth speed is moderate. Kalanchoe comes from semi-desert regions and is drought-tolerant. Water only when the soil is dry. In winter, reduce watering even more; just keep the soil from drying out completely. Overwatering easily causes stem and root rot. After flowering, kalanchoe enters dormancy. During this period, reduce watering and do not fertilize. Normal growth and watering resume only after about six weeks. Kalanchoe cannot tolerate temperatures below 12°C, and the most suitable growing temperature is 18 to 27°C. Therefore, in low temperatures, place kalanchoe indoors in a bright spot for overwintering and warmth protection. Kalanchoe is not cold-tolerant; the suitable growing temperature is 15 to 25°C. When high temperatures exceed 30°C, growth is impeded. In winter, indoor temperatures need to be 12 to 15°C. Below 5°C, the leaves turn red and the flowering period is delayed. If room temperature exceeds 24°C, flowering is inhibited, while at temperatures around 15°C to 24°C it will bloom continuously. Kalanchoe is a short-day plant. Short-day management can begin in mid-September, pausing fertilization, and it needs at least fourteen hours in darkness each day before it can bloom.
Cultivation Techniques
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant. Its thick, glossy leaves form a low cluster that stays emerald green all year round. The plant is small and exquisite, compact in shape, with dense flowers and strong disease resistance. It likes warm, humid conditions and is also drought-tolerant; it likes light and is also fairly shade-tolerant. Its flowering period is long and cultivation is easy. It is suitable for indoor decoration in winter and outdoor display in summer, with excellent ornamental effect.
Abroad, kalanchoe is not only an indoor ornamental potted flower, but is also widely used in outdoor landscapes. At present, this concept is gradually being accepted by domestic garden designers, and it has begun to be applied in garden features. Under modern management conditions, kalanchoe production can reach 100 pots/year per sq m, and the output per unit area is even higher than that of large potted flowers such as anthurium and bromeliads.
In recent years, imported double-petaled kalanchoe has been successfully introduced by Beijing Wuzhou Xiangyuan Agricultural Development Co., Ltd. With its unique rose-shaped charm, it has gained market recognition and become a very valuable "new variety flower" with development potential. Wuzhou Xiangyuan Company continues to innovate. In addition to the mainstream red series, it has also launched pink, purple, yellow, light green, and other varieties. To improve the domestic planting quality of kalanchoe, the company has, for many years, communicated continuously with foreign suppliers regarding kalanchoe seedling planting issues and summarized the key points of kalanchoe planting management.
Cultivation techniques
Medium: medium-grade peat mixed with lime, fertilizer, clay, etc.
Cutting pot diameter: standard pot specifications are 9 cm, 10 cm, or 11 cm.
Watering: requires restraint to avoid excessive plant growth.
Fertilization: apply compound fertilizer with added calcium, in conjunction with watering, at a pH of 5.5 to 5.8. Note that a water sample analysis should be carried out before fertilizing. Test the pH and EC values of the potting medium once a week. The pH should be 5.0 to 6.0, and the EC value should be 1.8 to 2.5.
Growth retardants: use CCC in the early stage of plant growth and B9 in the later stage.
Temperature: the suitable temperature for rooting is 22°C, and afterward the suitable temperature for plant growth is 19°C. When outdoor light is too strong, use ventilation equipment to lower the temperature. In addition, avoid temperatures above 25°C, otherwise high temperatures will weaken the effect of short-day treatment.
Shading and artificial supplemental lighting: in summer, high outdoor temperatures easily turn the leaves red. When light intensity is greater than 65,000 lux, shading must be provided. In winter, to shorten the plant's growth time by one or two weeks and cause it to form more inflorescences, artificial supplemental lighting is needed, with light intensity required to reach 3,000 lux. This is generally done before short-day treatment, and day length should be no less than 18 hours/day.
Relative humidity: should reach 75% to reduce damage from pathogens.
How to grow kalanchoe: every experienced gardening friend has their own set of methods. Having grown kalanchoe for many years, I have accumulated some experience and would like to exchange ideas with everyone here. Anyone with better care knowledge is welcome to speak freely.
One: Soil and environment
Kalanchoe does not have high soil requirements; loose, breathable soil is best. Leaf mold, pine needle soil, and garden soil mixed with coal cinder are all fine. With ample sunlight, the suitable temperature is 15-25°C. Above 30°C it enters semi-dormancy, below 10°C growth stops, below 5°C the leaves turn red, and below 0°C it will suffer frost damage. Insufficient light easily causes the plant to become leggy, resulting in weak branches, thin and small leaves, fewer flowers, and less vivid flower color.
Two: Branch cuttings
After old kalanchoe plants finish flowering or come through the summer, they should be repotted and given fresh soil, otherwise their growth will weaken. Especially for double-petaled varieties, the plants easily become woody. I generally take cuttings once every other year. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, with spring and autumn being best. Summer and winter are also possible, but rooting is slow. In summer, the survival rate of cuttings is somewhat lower. When cutting, cut healthy branches with four or more leaves. After the wounds dry, they can be planted.
You can root them in water first and then transplant, or insert them directly into potting soil. Provide appropriate shading. Since the cuttings have not yet produced roots, a certain humidity must be maintained. You can spray water appropriately to retain moisture. Roots can generally appear in about a week. If the temperature is low, rooting takes longer. For branches planted in soil, when you see the leaves become firm and glossy, they have already rooted and survived.
Three: Growth period
After the seedlings survive, pinch the tips and remove the terminal buds to encourage more branching. More branches mean more flowers, and the plant shape will also be more beautiful. Kalanchoe is drought-tolerant and does not need large amounts of water. Water according to the principle of seeing moisture then dryness. In winter, with low temperatures, control the amount of water to avoid root rot. Autumn is the peak growing season for kalanchoe. After September, ensure the supply of water and fertilizer so the plant grows robustly and can bloom more and with vivid color. In summer, definitely do not let it be rained on continuously. After rain, do not expose it to strong sun. High humidity and high heat will smother the roots, causing root rot and black rot disease. In summer, also provide appropriate shading and do not expose it to harsh sun. If conditions permit, it can be moved to a north-facing balcony. If conditions do not permit, you can pull up a shade net or place it under tree shade. You can care for it according to your own conditions.
Precautions for growing kalanchoe:
How to grow kalanchoe is the first question friends preparing to grow kalanchoe think of. Kalanchoe leaves are glossy and emerald green all year round. The flowering period of kalanchoe is from December each year to April of the following year. A short five months can bring beautiful ornamental value. However, kalanchoe is a relatively easy flower to grow. The soil can be allowed to lean dry, not wet. It is fine even when it dries to the point that the leaves are a bit wilted; after it dries out completely, water thoroughly in one go. Some gardening friends have also tried leaving it outside the window in summer with no problems. If kalanchoe goes without light for a long time, it will become leggy and the leaves will become correspondingly thinner. Kalanchoe is afraid of freezing, so it needs to be placed indoors in winter. When flowering, just add some phosphorus fertilizer.
Kalanchoe grows best in well-ventilated clay pottery, and can also be grown directly in purple clay pots or plastic pots. It is worth noting that when planting, place a layer of crushed charcoal or hard plastic foam pieces at the bottom of the pot. This is to increase ventilation. It easily rots in heavy clay, so that is not a good choice. For home potting, it is best to mix leaf mold and garden topsoil in equal amounts, then add 5% to 8% sand as the growing medium. When planting, add a little bone meal or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer as a base fertilizer.
Kalanchoe has a relatively high water content in its body, so it is drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. Water only when the soil in the pot is relatively dry; normally just keep it slightly moist. Water less in summer, preferably once every 5 to 7 days. With appropriate water control and soil that alternates between dry and moist, the branches will be lush and the flowers plentiful. After bringing it indoors in winter, it is best to water at noon with water close to room temperature, about once a week.
Kalanchoe likes a fertile environment. After flowering, apply nitrogen fertilizer once appropriately; urea liquid fertilizer is best. This makes the kalanchoe more robust. At other times, only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When fertilizing, never apply the fertilizer liquid to the leaves, otherwise they will wither. Also note that you should not fertilize in summer.
Growing kalanchoe also requires attention to the fact that it likes an environment with ample sunlight, while appropriately avoiding the harsh sun. At other times, it is best to place it in sunlight. Maintaining more than four hours of light per day can make the plant more robust. Although it can also grow in half shade, the stems will be thin, the leaves small, the flowers few, and the color pale. If it is too shady, it easily drops leaves and produces no flowers. The most suitable growing temperature for kalanchoe is 15°C to 25°C, and it can bloom in December.
In winter, kalanchoe needs protection from the cold, and room temperature must not be below 12°C. Kalanchoe is phototropic, so during the growing period, attention should be paid to changing the direction of the flower pot and adjusting the light so that the plant receives even light and the branches grow evenly in all directions. Whenever the flowers fade, the flower branches should be removed to avoid wasting nutrients. After the flowers fade each spring, repot once, using a potting soil made by mixing humus, garden soil, river sand, and a small amount of bone meal. This growing medium is loose, fertile, well-draining, and slightly acidic, which is beneficial to the growth and development of kalanchoe.
Kalanchoe is usually propagated by cuttings, and it is easy to grow and survive. Generally, in spring and autumn, cut stem sections with 3 to 5 leaves and insert them into a sand bed or a vermiculite pot, 3 to 5 per pot, keeping them moderately moist. Roots can form in about 20 days.
In addition, to extend the growth period of kalanchoe, we can appropriately pinch the current season's kalanchoe. This not only makes the kalanchoe look more graceful in shape, but also allows it to bloom at the right time.
Kalanchoe, also known as dwarf kalanchoe, is a perennial succulent herb with opposite leaves that are plump, juicy, and easily broken. It has terminal cymose inflorescences with flowers in colors such as orange-red, yellow, and red. The plant shape is short, the flowering period is long, the flowers are abundant, and the ornamental value is high.
One: Pot and soil
The pot should preferably be small, exquisite, and well-ventilated; loose sandy loam is excellent for planting. Kalanchoe grows best when planted in well-ventilated clay pottery pots, but placed indoors it is not attractive, so you can put it inside a plastic or porcelain pot, or grow it directly in a small purple clay pot or plastic pot. When planting, place a layer of crushed charcoal pieces or crushed hard plastic foam pieces at the bottom of the pot to enhance ventilation. Although it is not very particular about soil, it easily rots in heavy clay, while it grows best in loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam. For home potting, it is best to mix leaf mold and garden topsoil in equal amounts, then add 5% to 8% sand as the growing medium. When planting, add a little bone meal or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer as a base fertilizer.
Two: Water control and fertilization
Moderate water control brings lush leaves; more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer brings vivid flower color. Kalanchoe is a succulent plant with a relatively high water content in its body, so it is more drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. It grows well under the dry air conditions of high-rise buildings. In spring and autumn, water thoroughly once after the potting soil has been dry for about 3 days, and normally just keep it slightly moist. In summer, water less, preferably once every 5 to 7 days. For kalanchoe placed outdoors, avoid rain during the rainy season; too much water easily causes root rot, leaf drop, and even death. With appropriate water control and soil that alternates between dry and moist, the branches will be lush and the flowers plentiful. After bringing it indoors in winter, it is best to water at noon with water close to room temperature, about once a week.
Kalanchoe likes fertilizer. Half a month after seedlings are potted, or half a month after old plants are divided, apply 2 to 3 times a nitrogen-based liquid fertilizer to promote stem and leaf growth. After flowering, apply one nitrogen-based liquid fertilizer to help it recover vigor. At other times, aside from stopping fertilization in summer, only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When fertilizing, do not get fertilizer on the leaves, otherwise the leaves easily rot. If the leaf surface is accidentally dirtied, rinse it off with water. Kalanchoe has a long flowering period, so the rule of not fertilizing during flowering should be broken. Apply a dilute nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once a month, so that later flowers do not become smaller and paler due to lack of fertilizer.
Three: Temperature and light
Kalanchoe likes an environment with ample sunlight. Except for slight shading at midday in midsummer, at other times it should be placed in a sunny spot. It needs at least 4 hours of direct light per day to grow robustly. On a building balcony, turn the flower pot 180 degrees every half month so that it receives even light and avoids an uneven crown, which would reduce its ornamental value. Although it can also grow in half shade, the stems are thin, the leaves small, the flowers few, and the color pale, far less lush than in a sunny spot. If it is too shady, it not only easily drops leaves and produces no flowers, but even a plant that has already bloomed, when placed in shade, will have its flower color become dull and then the flowers will drop and wither.
The most suitable growing temperature for kalanchoe is 15°C to 25°C. Above 30°C growth slows and it enters a semi-dormant state; below 10°C growth stalls; below 8°C the leaf color turns red and the flowering period is delayed; below 0°C it easily freezes to death. Therefore, to grow kalanchoe well, you must create a small environment that is warm in winter and cool in summer. At midday in midsummer, avoid strong direct sun and place it in a half-shaded spot with ample scattered light, such as under a large tree, under the eaves, or on a north-facing balcony. Pay special attention to ventilation and cooling; you can sprinkle water on the nearby ground, but not on the plant itself.
After the Start of Autumn, from late August to early September, it can gradually be exposed to sunlight. From October onward, it should be exposed to more sunlight to promote the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. When the minimum temperature drops to around 10°C, move it indoors and place it in front of a south- or west-facing windowsill so it gets more sunlight, keeping it at 10°C at night and 15°C to 18°C during the day; it can then bloom in December.
Four: Fertilization
During the cutting process, do not fertilize. Only after the branches survive and grow new leaves can you fertilize, but be sure to apply light fertilizer frequently. During the growing period, compound fertilizer is the main type. Summer is the semi-dormant period for kalanchoe, and it must not be fertilized, otherwise the roots will burn. Starting in October is the flower bud differentiation period. You can spray some potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution and also combine it with root watering. A concentration above 1:1000 is best. Spray once every 7 to 10 days until flower buds appear.
Five: Cutting precautions
Kalanchoe does not have very high soil requirements. Sandy loam or peat soil mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer is sufficient. During the growing period, fertilize once every 3 days or so with compound chemical fertilizer or fermented organic liquid fertilizer to promote robust plant growth. In summer, with high temperature and high humidity, fertilization can be omitted. After flower buds appear, apply a relatively concentrated organic fertilizer or compound chemical fertilizer once. In the early stage of vigorous growth, pay attention to pinching to promote branching and make the flowers grow fuller.
Six: Disease treatment
Kalanchoe pests mainly include aphids, western flower thrips, scale insects, cyclamen mites, leaf rollers, and fungus gnat larvae.
Aphids can cause serious damage to kalanchoe, especially in winter and early spring. Using aphid parasites and wasps for biological control is more effective than chemical control.
When western flower thrips cause damage, their numbers are relatively small. Thrips like to attack the soft tissue at the plant's growing points. You can use sticky traps weekly to monitor their numbers.
Scale insects mainly feed on axillary buds and growing points. Even a small number of scale insects can cause great damage. As long as a plant is infested by scale insects, it can no longer be sold. Once scale insects are found in the greenhouse, it is recommended to deal with them immediately to prevent spread.
Cyclamen mites do not like warmth and heat, so they rarely cause damage in summer and mainly cause damage in winter. Symptoms include stunted growth, deformation of growing points, and deformed and discolored flower buds. They often hide inside flower buds or among the tender leaves around the growing points.
Kalanchoe fungal diseases include powdery mildew, gray mold, rhizopus, myrothecium, stem rot, pythium, and others. Powdery mildew is the most serious fungal disease harming kalanchoe. Powdery mildew is very hard to identify, because by the time white fuzzy mold appears, the disease is already very severe. Most powdery mildew on kalanchoe is difficult to control chemically.
Gray mold causes kalanchoe leaves and stems to rot in winter. Keeping the leaf surface dry and ventilation good can effectively prevent it, but many gray mold infections leave obvious spots on the leaves.
Rhizopus mostly occurs in warm, humid environments. Thin, soft tissues are most susceptible to infection. It also frequently occurs if the environment is too warm or too wet.
Myrothecium appears together with fungus gnats during kalanchoe seedling propagation and causes damage. Plants placed too densely, poor air circulation, and warm, humid conditions between plants can all cause bacterial outbreaks.
Stem rot: There are many kinds of fungi that cause stem rot in kalanchoe, such as Phytophthora, Thielaviopsis, Rhizoctonia, Cylindrocarpon, and others. Generally, these fungi can be found on infected plants, but the most common situation is that they bore into the stem together with fungus gnats and cause damage at the same time. Treatment should target both the pathogen and the pest.
Pythium: The root system of kalanchoe is very sensitive to improper watering; both excessive dryness and excessive moisture can cause problems. According to experience, pythium mostly appears as a secondary disease under poor conditions. Kalanchoe can survive with a small amount of roots. If the root environment is poor, the plant grows only part of its roots, making it easier for pythium to invade.
Viral diseases affecting Kalanchoe include Kalanchoe mosaic virus, Impatiens necrotic spot virus, Yellow spot virus, Kalanchoe latent virus, Kala virus, and others.
Kalanchoe mosaic virus (Green Island virus) This is the most common virus in Kalanchoe, and it appears extremely widely in modern hybrid varieties. This virus only appears on plants grown in harsh environments and heavily infected plants, manifesting as dark green mosaic spots on the leaves, and in severe cases it inhibits the growth of diseased plants. Currently, there is no feasible immunological assay method for controlling this virus, and aphids may be carriers of this virus.
Impatiens necrotic spot virus This is a variant of Tomato spotted wilt virus, and it can cause a range of damage to Kalanchoe, sometimes even appearing as if it were caused by a mistake during production. It is transmitted by western flower thrips.
Yellow spot virus can cause chlorosis and necrotic spots, and there is currently no effective immunological assay method. In Kalanchoe cultivation, once a plant is infected with this virus, the plant will be completely destroyed.
Kalanchoe latent virus This virus shows no symptoms at all, but it can be detected by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.
Kala virus The symptoms of this virus are pale green to yellow mosaic spots on the leaves, and it can be detected.
Physiological disorders of Kalanchoe mainly include pesticide spray damage, flower damage, short-day damage, ethylene damage, stress responses, mutations, and others.
Pesticide spray damage Some insecticides can cause toxic damage to the flowers and leaves of Kalanchoe. Many EC components among them corrode the cuticle of Kalanchoe leaves and petals, ultimately leading to flower fading and spots on the leaves.
Flower damage There are many causes of flower damage in Kalanchoe, with continuous high humidity being the main cause. In the early stages of cultivation, supplementing appropriate calcium ions and maintaining plant vigor as much as possible can prevent this situation. Some sensitive and fragile varieties will show particular symptoms under unfavorable conditions.
Short-day damage During Kalanchoe cultivation, at least 6 hours of blackout shading are needed each day. Even during long-day treatment, being placed in darkness for a long time will cause chlorosis in healthy leaves.
Ethylene damage Ripe fruit placed in storage rooms or retail stores produces ethylene. When exposed to extremely low concentrations of ethylene, Kalanchoe will drop flowers or cause flower buds to degenerate within a few days, so extra attention is needed during transport, storage, or display. In addition, malfunctioning CO2 generators in the greenhouse can also cause the same problem.
Stress response Stress responses in Kalanchoe can be caused by a series of factors, including water, light, and temperature. Under mild conditions, the mature leaves of the plant will fade; when the environment is extremely harsh, ethylene begins to be produced inside the growth point, leading to typical ethylene poisoning symptoms, complete cessation of plant growth, reddening of the growth point, and degeneration of flower buds.
Mutation All are caused by genetic defects.
The most common pests of Kalanchoe are aphids and leafminers. Aphids are easy to control, but leafminers are difficult to deal with. They like to burrow into the leaves and are hard to spot. By the time they are discovered, the leaf mesophyll has basically been eaten away, turning into transparent dry leaves. Usually, pay more attention to changes in the leaves, and once they are found, spray pesticide to avoid an outbreak. Dimethoate, imidacloprid, and baichongling are all effective against this pest.
Growing Kalanchoe indoors in winter is most prone to powdery mildew. The main cause is poor ventilation. After powdery mildew appears, tridemorph is generally used to deal with it. Sulfur powder can also treat powdery mildew. Sulfur powder is not soluble in water, so the leaves should be sprayed wet first, and then the sulfur powder should be evenly sprinkled on the diseased leaves. If powdery mildew occurs, treat and isolate promptly, as it will infect other healthy flowers. Kalanchoe can also suffer from stem rot and leaf blight, which can be sprayed with a 800-**** times dilution of thiophanate-methyl. If stem rot is found, if it is not serious, medication can be used; if it is serious, healthy branches should be cut for cuttings, and the diseased plant should be thrown away.