How to grow Nertera granadensis and can the berries be eaten

 Nertera granadensis, this one is very beautiful when it grows, not just ordinarily beautiful, it bears a lot of berries on it, and the colors are quite vivid. Let's see how to grow Nertera granadensis? Can Nertera granadensis be eaten:

How to grow Nertera granadensis:

(1) Nertera granadensis prefers to grow in cool, shady and humid places, and cannot tolerate direct strong light,

but Nertera granadensis does need a certain amount of light when growing. We can place it under bright indirect light. In summer, when the temperature is relatively high, shade is needed at this time, but it cannot be too shaded, as this will affect flowering and fruiting;

(2) The soil should be a sandy soil with good aeration and high humus content;

(3) In summer, the potting soil needs to be kept moist, while in winter it should be kept slightly dry. Watering should be moderate, and when watering, do not pour water on the leaves or berries, so as to avoid rotting the plant. You can water by the immersion method or the spray method;

Note:

(1) When Nertera granadensis is flowering, hand pollination is needed so that it can bear more berries.

(2) Nertera granadensis sometimes gets infected with gray mold, so attention should be paid to controlling the humidity of the growing environment.

Can Nertera granadensis be eaten:

As for Nertera granadensis, I have not heard whether it can be eaten, and it probably does not taste good anyway.

That is all for the introduction to the growing methods of Nertera granadensis. It is still better not to eat this Nertera granadensis; be careful, it may be toxic.

How to grow Nertera granadensis and can it be eaten

Nertera granadensis, a whole tree full of these Nertera granadensis berries, bright red, super beautiful, and it makes you want to eat them just looking at them. How to grow Nertera granadensis? Can Nertera granadensis be eaten:

How to grow Nertera granadensis:

1. Nertera granadensis likes cool, shady and humid environments, and exposure to strong sun must be avoided. Its growing temperature is 10-20°C, and a sandy soil with good drainage and aeration and high humus content can be used.

2. In summer, the potting soil should be kept moist, and in winter it can be kept slightly dry. After the berries form, do not let water fall on the berries or the plant when watering, otherwise the berries will rot.

As an ornamental berry plant, Nertera granadensis is really too beautiful. It clearly looks like coral, like agate, how is it like a tomato?

Can Nertera granadensis be eaten:

Nertera granadensis, also called Nertera granadensis, is a herbaceous plant that grows in the Philippines and Australia, and it produces small berries like red coral. They are very delightful, but although these berries are pretty, they must not be eaten.

Nertera granadensis is quite beautiful, but pay attention to this: it cannot be eaten. Hurry and learn the growing methods.

Talking about succulent care from the experience of aquatic plant care

This article isLiu's submission to Duorou Lianmeng. If reprinting, please indicate the author and source. Compared with aquatic plants, the entry threshold for succulents should be said to be much lower, and it is precisely because of this that so many people can feel the joy of growing succulents. Everyone who is good at thinking will eventually form their own view of care, both similar and different.

This article chats about the similarities between succulent care and aquatic plant care. It is entirely a personal view, and discussion is welcome.
Aquatic plant aquascaping has been a hobby I have kept for many years. My succulent growing began with a Sempervivum 'Guanyin Lian' given by a friend (you too?). I have seen unscrupulous sellers soak Sempervivum 'Guanyin Lian' in water and sell them as aquatic plants, so I went around the succulent shops, and just like that, before I had even gotten ashore, I fell into the succulent pit again.
Back to the point. If I insist on linking aquatic plant care techniques with succulents, perhaps everyone will find it bizarre, and since I lack experience in growing succulents, succulent enthusiasts may feel disdainful. This article is purely for fun; if you are interested, read on.

I am not a data obsessive, and I will not be led around by all kinds of tedious data. Rather, the goal is to continuously learn, exchange ideas and improve myself through my own hobbies. I like reading posts and various theories, increasing my knowledge, and then trying them out according to my own conditions to gain my own experience and take fewer detours. Of course, this excludes those who have turned their hobby into their profession; that is the life realm most people dream of.

After all, succulents and aquatic plants are both plants, and their growing conditions are very different. It is necessary to respect the growing conditions of various plants, but the two can also be compared. Most fundamentally, all things grow relying on the sun, so I will just chat casually, and criticism, correction and discussion are welcome.

(The pictures are pretty poor. Photographing an aquatic plant tank is quite difficult because of reflections, and professional equipment is necessary. Mine are all phone photos, so readers please make do.)
First, the care conditions for succulents: light, ventilation, watering, temperature, substrate, pest prevention, fertilizing
Then the care conditions for aquatic plants: light, water flow, water quality, water temperature, bottom sand, algae prevention, fertilizing

1. About the light requirements for caring for aquatic plants and succulents:
The light needs of succulents and aquatic plants seem to be different. Why do I say "seem"? Succulent enthusiasts all know that outdoor growing is the king's way, and direct sunlight is undoubtedly the best condition for succulent growth. However, many succulent enthusiasts do not have such conditions, either because of a layer of glass in between or because they use supplemental lights in rainy seasons. Aquatic plants, however, cannot be exposed to the sun, not even through glass. Why? They will grow algae: brown algae, green spot algae, thread algae, blue-green algae and so on, just like succulents getting pests, and even more troublesome than pest removal. Aquatic plant lighting relies on specialized lights. This kind of lighting is not very mysterious either. The light lacks some wavelengths found in sunlight (I will not go into detail here, otherwise the theoretical knowledge could fill a paper), and these wavelengths are not necessary for aquatic plants, and may even have side effects. So here comes the question: can succulents grow entirely under artificial light? I think the answer is definitely yes. This is also where the similarity between succulents and aquatic plants lies. On a certain online marketplace, all kinds of specialized supplemental lights have appeared, expensive and with varying effects. Some succulent enthusiasts feel they are completely ineffective or barely satisfactory. First, I want to say do not use halogen lamps. It is not about electricity consumption; this kind of lamp is harmful to the eyes, especially in homes with children. Although it may feel like it has strong light, it is best not to use it. There are also those containing ultraviolet rays, which are harmful to the human body over long periods; you can search online for details. So what lamps to use? PL tubes, LEDs, T5, T8 are all fine. There is no need to pursue high-end models; tri-phosphor is enough, especially T8. Add a reflector and the cost-performance ratio is super high. What is tri-phosphor? The tube is marked with 865 or 840 and so on. Those marked 8XX are tri-phosphor (there are also 9XX, high-end products, luxury versions). Of course, quality varies. Philips is recommended, with super high cost-performance. I also have to mention LED. In the eyes of aquatic plant hobbyists, LED is also controversial, with mixed reviews, because the light waves of LED are relatively special and the light is more concentrated. The intensity of the lamp beads and the arrangement density are very important. There is no hope of using LED to save electricity. Many are used in paludariums and rainforest tanks with very good results. I use them little and have no experience, so I will not discuss them. Aquatic plant lights are also plant lights, satisfying the needs of plant growth, and succulents are no exception. If using plant lights for supplemental lighting is not as good as direct sunlight, that is because of the intensity of the light, that is, wattage and irradiation distance. Generally, for plants grown in tanks, the irradiation distance does not exceed 40CM. Wattage and tube length are proportional. Decide how many tubes to use according to the area. After all this rambling, back to the point: if conditions allow, still grow outdoors, especially in the north, making use of nature's best free resource. Even through glass, it is better than buying equipment and using electricity, right? Insufficient light makes succulents leggy, and the same is true for aquatic plants. With sufficient light, aquatic plants will also color up and show their best condition. In addition, succulents include Haworthia, which do not have high light requirements, and aquatic plants include shade-loving plants that grow slowly and are instead prone to algae when light is strong. Many aquatic plants on Taobao are emersed leaves and can use sunlight. Emersed leaves indeed grow fast and robust, saving costs and also looking good. Many emersed leaves and submersed leaves are indistinguishable, but converting them to underwater growth is difficult. After all, the environment has changed, just as succulents also need time to adapt when changing environments. Why do other people's plants grow well and fast? Environmental differences. No rush. Growing flowers and plants is also about cultivating character.
(Everyone says air plants need ventilation, but I grow them enclosed. Everyone says air plants should not have standing water, but I spray them casually, and they grow very well. I have only heard it said; how would you know if you do not try?)
(The water-retaining Fireball indeed turns red easily, and its light requirements are not high. A 24W PL tube turned it red in one month. Try all kinds of plants; there is always one you can get the hang of.)

(With the same 24W PL tube, neither Red Palace nor Little Red Plum colored up. Is the light insufficient? Or is it lacking iron? Bucephalandra is not growing either. I am considering changing the light and trying.)

2. About the ventilation requirements for caring for aquatic plants and succulents
Succulents need a ventilated environment; no need to say more nonsense. Aquatic plants also need water flow. Through water flow, oxygen and CO2 dissolve, nutrients are absorbed, harmful substances are filtered out, and so on. It also balances the water temperature in the tank. Water flow is entirely driven by filtration, and it is one of the necessary pieces of equipment for an aquatic plant tank, and it runs 24 hours a day. Growing succulents also emphasizes ventilation. This is a very important point I discovered in growing succulents. Indoor ventilation and outdoor growing are very different. Some succulent enthusiasts even say ventilation is more important than whether one can grow outdoors. It is not only about fearing that the plants will suffocate, but it also plays a great role in nutrient absorption and activating the substrate, and moist soil is less likely to breed bacteria. More exposure to natural wind is absolutely beneficial.
(Paludariums are not very suitable for the north. Including aquascapes in the aquarium market, the same dry leaves happen. You can only slowly screen suitable plants, and also spray water every day.)


3. About the watering needs for caring for aquatic plants and succulents
I water succulents with fish tank water. Fish tank water needs to be changed regularly. When a tank is first set up, water changes are relatively frequent, about once every 2 or 3 days. Of course, not all of it is changed, only 1/3 or 1/4. Once the water quality gradually stabilizes, changing part of it once a week or every two weeks is enough. This water is perfect for watering succulents (since I started growing succulents, water changes have become more frequent). I use tap water directly into the tank. Chlorine can kill some algae cells. By the time the water is changed out, the chlorine has already evaporated, and it also carries some nutrients and minerals from the fish tank, as well as harmful substances decomposed by aquatic plants or nitrifying bacteria, which can become nutrients for succulents. The water temperature is also relatively close to the air temperature. Why do I say frequent water changes are needed when a tank is first set up? Because the water quality is unstable and the new bottom sand is rich in nutrients, which may cause excessive nutrients in the water. Aquatic plants that have not yet rooted cannot absorb it all, creating excellent conditions for algae growth. The process of growing aquatic plants is also a long-term struggle with algae. Once the aquatic plants are in good condition and begin to grow, they absorb more and more nutrients, and the aquatic plants then hold an absolute advantage in the micro-environment. If the bottom sand lacks nutrients, liquid fertilizer can also be added. Similarly, when succulents are first potted, they also need root development, less watering and no fertilizing. Too much water before the roots have grown well creates a good environment for bacteria. Algae like water, bacteria are created by stuffiness, and the two reinforce each other. Nature is survival of the fittest.
(Which plants are suitable for the home environment?)


4. About the temperature requirements for caring for aquatic plants and succulents
Plants all have temperatures suitable for growth, but there will also be a process of gradual adaptation. Gradual changes within a certain range will not harm succulents; on the contrary, they will strengthen resistance. A healthy state is the most beautiful. The north has heating, and when the heating stops in early spring it may still be cold. In the tank, a heater is needed to keep the temperature constant. Once the minimum reaches above 15°C, it can be removed. Besides light, red plants in the tank also need temperature differences to turn red. Not all plants turn red, because not all plants contain anthocyanins. Anthocyanins like low temperatures and also tolerate high temperatures, and acidity turns them red. If you think it is strong light that turns them red, that is because chloroplasts are damaged under strong light, and anthocyanins seep out from the leaf surface cells. Once the light weakens, the chloroplasts repair quickly, and the succulent gradually turns green again. In addition, aquatic plants need fan cooling in summer; above 35°C they will melt leaves. Succulents need shading or to be moved indoors, but I personally think moving indoors reduces air circulation, which is very unfavorable, so shading is more reliable. In northern winters, indoors has heating, so moving them indoors is necessary. Room temperature is good for succulent growth, but ventilation conditions are poor, so watering should be reduced. After watering, ventilate appropriately, but pay attention to temperature differences. In winter, you can absolutely choose to water and ventilate at noon when sunlight is abundant.

5. About the substrate requirements for caring for aquatic plants and succulents
After all this, there are still quite a lot of experiences from growing succulents and aquatic plants that can be referenced, and substrate is even more of an example. It needs aeration. When I first entered the aquatic plant pit, I lacked experience. Beginners buy all kinds of imported aquatic plant soil, which is expensive and has a short service life. In less than half a year it starts to disintegrate in various ways, and the fertility varies. Hardware is also swapped around constantly, and a lot of money is spent. Now thinking about it, buying some succulents is nothing compared with playing with aquatic plants. Later I chose Xiantu, this magical domestic product. The reason I call it magical is that this soil is absolutely cheap and good, and it has a very wide range of uses. It was originally a special soil for orchids, but many aquatic plant hobbyists discovered it. It is cheap and excellent, and its composition and ratio are even better than domestic or imported professional aquatic plant soil. The granules are suitable, it does not easily disintegrate, its hardness is very high, it is rich in minerals, and its fertility is long-lasting. Of course, it also has shortcomings. Some will yellow the water, which depends on luck, and after buying it, it still needs processing. But the fun lies in the process of tinkering, just as for some succulent enthusiasts the fun may be more about buying, buying, buying. Another substrate is volcanic stone. Volcanic stone is very famous in the aquarium world. For aquatic plant aquascaping, its stability is second only to petrified wood. Granules can be used as filter media to cultivate bacteria. It does not disintegrate and does not harden the water. It is also good as one of the succulent substrates: water-retaining and aerated, contains minerals, does not disintegrate, and so on. Xiantu, volcanic stone, plus river sand used for aquascaping, and then mixed with some coconut coir, is what I consider a relatively perfect succulent substrate. What is retired from the aquatic plant tank can continue to be used, with super high cost-performance.

6. Can I talk about pest prevention and fertilizing together?
If there are pests in the tank, they get eaten by the small fish. Algae prevention is key. First, avoid foreign invasion. After obtaining something, do enough homework to avoid all kinds of possible future trouble. My home is on a high floor. If there are pests on succulents, they are all scale insects and fungus gnats brought in by soil and pots bought from the market. As a result, the succulents were tormented badly, but in winter when the balcony temperature dropped below 10°C at night, they basically all froze to death, and none were found again in early spring. I feel the main reason is that because of the pests I neglected the succulents and they basically dried to death (busy with work at the end of the year, my fault, my fault). The small portion that survived were also re-propagated by leaf cuttings and repotted with new soil. Some algae in the tank are destructive, such as black beard algae and thread algae, and must be dealt with at the initial stage. The result of ignoring them and neglecting management is tearing down the tank and starting over. Pests or other causes also need to be nipped in the bud, just as when bladder snails are found in an aquatic plant tank you must act, otherwise they reproduce astonishingly. Of course, prevention is still the main thing. As for fertilizing, I have basically never done it, including for aquatic plants, relying entirely on the fertility of the bottom substrate. When the condition is poor, most of the time it is not because of insufficient fertility, but other factors. Analyze specific causes specifically: roots, ventilation conditions, temperature and so on.

Plants are strongly regional, and various environments create various states. You cannot say which state is bad. First keep them alive, then grow them well, then talk about ornamental value. Care experience summarized according to your own environment is what suits you best. Succulent enthusiasts generally buy succulents that have been through several generations in greenhouses, and some also come from outdoor growing or window growing or light growing, and so on. They are no longer growing conditions from some historical place of origin, and the same is true for Korean goods, Japanese goods, European goods and so on. So do not think about what the ecological environment of the place of origin is like; it is useless. In the greenhouse, the environment from small to large does not change much, and the plants have already adapted to the greenhouse growing environment: soil quality, water quality, humidity, light and so on. When they arrive home, everything changes. Give them a transition period and let them adapt slowly. In part, follow the laws of growth; in part, gradually cultivate adaptation to the environment. Do not rush about the length of time. Only after they settle in do they slowly show their best condition, and showing their best condition is the real goal.

Blah blah blah, all this is just offering some views for succulent enthusiasts to enjoy. After all, I lack experience and am showing off before an expert, and this is a poorly worded running account. Usually, detailed care experience that can be found online is really not much, and there are also restrictions from different overall environments. Some of my views are more suitable for North China, where there is strong sun, dryness, little rain, lots of wind and occasional smog. Other regions each have their own advantages. Thanks to Uncle Meng for providing such a good platform to bring succulent enthusiasts from all over together, and I hope that through Uncle Meng's platform I can share more experience with succulent enthusiasts. (PS: Thanks to the succulent enthusiast who in my previous article on my view of succulents pointed out that ceramic pots are not suitable for northern regions. Actually, I have all kinds of pots: porcelain pots, purple clay pots, plastic pots, ceramic pots and so on. I still quite like purple clay and ceramic pots. The reason the newly acquired ones were grown in ceramic pots was originally for getting through summer, but it turned out they really are too dry, requiring daily watering. Of course, I also cannot keep my hands still, so there always have to be a few pots that let me indulge myself. Now I am considering repotting. As for the ceramic pots, they will not sit idle either. Learning from the succulent enthusiast (jennycheung), I have started hand-painting flower pots together with my child.)