Correct cutting propagation methods for the Peace Tree and the causes of dry, withered leaves
The Radermachera sinica is the representative tree of Hawaii. Because people believe it can bring happiness, many people place it in front of their homes.
How to correctly propagate the Peace Tree by cuttings
Preparation for Peace Tree cutting propagation:
1. Cutting time
The Peace Tree can be propagated by cuttings in spring or autumn, usually in April, May, September and October. At this time the temperature can be maintained between 22°C——28°C, which is relatively suitable for Peace Tree cuttings.
2. Cutting substrate
When propagating the Peace Tree by cuttings, a flower pot or nutrient pot is generally chosen as the cutting container, and the substrate can generally be mixed by oneself. Mix vermiculite and peat as the cutting substrate. Before cutting, it needs to be disinfected first.
Peace Tree cutting method:
1. Cuttings
When propagating the Peace Tree by cuttings, suitable cuttings need to be selected. Take healthy branches of the current year that have already become semi-lignified, and the leaf color is required to be bright.
The cuttings taken can be cut into strips of about 15cm, generally retaining 2——3 leaves, and the rest are cut off. The lower part of the cutting must be cut into a slanted surface.
2. Cutting
Before propagating the Peace Tree by cuttings, the cuttings can first be soaked in a rooting powder solution, and then cuttings can be carried out. When cutting, be careful not to insert too deep or too shallow, and gently press firm with your fingers. Generally, one plant per nutrient pot is enough. After cutting, water thoroughly, then cover with a plastic bag, and place in a shaded place for care.
Peace Tree cutting care:
After the Peace Tree is propagated by cuttings, the cutting substrate needs to be kept moist. Water once every 4 days to maintain relatively high humidity. After about 20 days of growth, the plastic bag can be removed.
After the Peace Tree is propagated by cuttings, it will take root in about one month and can be transplanted. Move the seedling together with the substrate into a slightly larger flower pot, and afterwards normal care can be carried out.
What are the causes of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves?
Cause one of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves
1. New pot transplanting
If your Peace Tree's leaves all droop just a few days after you buy it, and the leaves show withered yellow spots, this is not a problem with your care; you were cheated by the shop when you bought it. The shop had just repotted or just planted it, and it needs a certain adaptation period. During the adaptation process it experienced two sudden environmental changes and showed this reaction. As long as it is not especially severely withered, it will slowly recover.
Solution:
For a newly planted tree, the pot-adjustment period takes one month, adapting to the environment takes one month, and after 2 months it basically resumes growth. Just wait patiently.
Cause two of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves
2. Soil on the alkaline side
The Peace Tree is suitable for growing in slightly acidic soil. The soil and water quality we commonly encounter are mostly alkaline. Over time this reduces the soil's acidity, affects the growth of the Peace Tree, and thus causes the leaves to become weak and dry.
Solution:
When watering the Peace Tree, you can add a little ferrous sulfate solution to increase the soil's acidity, but the concentration must not be too high. In addition, when repotting, replace with new soil and retain 1/3 of the old soil.
Cause three of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves
3. Freeze damage
The Money Tree is not cold-resistant. When the temperature is too low or late frost is relatively severe, leaves will dry up. The main signs are drooping leaves with no luster, gradually drying from the leaf tip until they fall off.
Solution:
With mild freeze damage, the Peace Tree's leaves will turn yellow; with severe freeze injury, they will dry up. There is no way to remedy leaves that have already been frostbitten; remove them promptly. Move the plant to a relatively warm place, and it is best to do insulation work. In spring, after the temperature rises, the branches will sprout leaves and branches again.
Cause four of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves
4. Root rot
Root rot is caused by many reasons: improper watering, improper fertilizing, soil that is not breathable... Actually, root rot is not scary; what is scary is root rot that is not discovered in time. In the early stage of root rot, the leaves lose luster, turn yellow, gradually develop dry spots, and droop. Finally, the plant dies because of insufficient nutrient supply.
Solution:
Actually, whether you can discover root rot also depends on luck. Frequently observing the plant, promptly analyzing the cause when abnormalities are found, and making corresponding treatment is what makes a rational flower grower. Once root rot is found in the Peace Tree, immediately remove it from the pot, cut off the rotted parts, disinfect, and replant. For severely dried leaves, remove them.
Cause five of dry, withered Peace Tree leaves
5. Branch blight
Another cause is branch blight of the Peace Tree, which is the most serious disease harming the Peace Tree, bar none. It is mainly caused by a stuffy, hot environment, improper ventilation, and fungal infection. It mainly shows as large areas of dry, withered branches and leaves appearing on the inner side of the Peace Tree, and thin, weak branches are also easily infected.
Solution:
As soon as possible, cut the branches back to 5 cm below the affected area, and remove all dried leaves (those with even a little dry spotting must also be removed). Spray the branches and leaves and drench the roots with carbendazim solution, 2~3 times in succession.
Peace Tree Cinnamomum kotoense Kanehira et Sasaki Peace Tree profile: how to grow the Peace Tree / how to propagate the Peace Tree
Peace Tree cardPeace Tree Cinnamomum kotoense Kanehira et Sasaki
Peace Tree cultivation methods and precautions, introduction to the Peace Tree
The Peace Tree is an evergreen small tree of the Lauraceae family, Cinnamomum genus, and its original name is Lanyu cinnamon, namely Lanyu Island in Taiwan, China. The Peace Tree is mostly native to Lanyu Island. It is a bright green, auspicious Lanyu cinnamon (cinnamon, Peace Tree, Peace Wood). In recent years it has begun to enter households and is loved by flower enthusiasts. It is produced in southern Taiwan, China (Lanyu).
The Peace Tree is native to Lanyu Island, and its other aliases include Hongtouyu cinnamon, Hongtoushan cinnamon, Fanglanshan cinnamon, large-leaf cinnamon, Taiwan cinnamon, etc.
The origin of the name "Peace Tree": "Peace Tree" is an elegant name for Lanyu cinnamon. Because its bark can be used as medicine, with the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, relieving pain and resolving blood stasis, and invigorating blood and strengthening the stomach, and because the plant is rich in cinnamon oil (the main component is cinnamaldehyde), which can also give off a fragrance that corrects odors and purifies the air, people in the flower planting and flower business industries gave it an auspicious name, "Peace Tree," to cater to urban people's consumer psychology of loving greenery and beauty and hoping for peace, and also to use it to relax people's nerves during stressful work. Therefore it is quite popular among urban people in both the north and south. Although the price is not low, it is still very much in demand.
The Peace Tree is a bright green, auspicious Lanyu cinnamon (cinnamon, Peace Tree). Its specific epithet is the place name "Hongtouyu," namely Lanyu Island in Taiwan, China. The Peace Tree is both a beautiful potted foliage plant and a very attractive landscape tree.
The Peace Tree's fruiting period is from August to September.
Morphological characteristics of the Peace Tree
The Peace Tree is an evergreen tree, about 15 m tall, and the leaves, branches and bark are almost without fragrance when dry. Branches and twigs are brown, cylindrical, hairless. Leaves opposite or nearly opposite, ovate to oblong-ovate, 8-11(14) cm long, 4-5.5(9) cm wide, apex acute, base rounded, leathery, green when fresh above, grayish green when dry, glossy, below nearly the same color, dull, hairless on both sides, with triplinerved veins arising from above the base, lateral veins arising about 1 cm from the leaf base, gradually disappearing or becoming inconspicuous and reticulate near 3/4 of the leaf, sometimes with one additional lateral vein on each side near the leaf margin, fine veins obvious on both sides, forming a shallow honeycomb-like network; petiole about 1.5 cm long, concave above and convex below, reddish brown or brown.
The Peace Tree has a dignified tree form, yellowish brown bark, and the plant height can reach 10 m to 15 m. The twigs are yellow-green, smooth and without down. The leaves are opposite or nearly opposite, ovate or ovate-oblong, with pointed tips and thick leathery texture. The leaves are large, 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide, bright green on the surface with a metallic luster, grayish green on the back, with obvious triplinerved veins arising from above the base, concave above and convex below, lateral veins extending from about 1 cm from the leaf base, sometimes with one small vein on each side near the leaf margin, and reticulate veins obvious on both sides, forming a shallow honeycomb pattern. New leaves are tender green, and the petiole is about 1.5 cm long, reddish brown to brown. Fruit ovoid, about 1.4 cm long, 1 cm in diameter. Fruit cup shallowly cup-shaped, with short rounded teeth on the margin, hairless.
The Peace Tree's fruit stalk is about 1 cm long and hairless. It is both a beautiful potted foliage plant and a very attractive landscape tree. Fruit ovoid, about 14 mm long, 10 mm wide; fruit cup cup-shaped, margin with short rounded teeth, hairless, fruit stalk about 1 cm long, hairless. Flowering period from June to July, fruiting period from August to September.
Ecological habits of the Peace Tree
The Peace Tree grows in forests. The Peace Tree likes warm, humid, sunny environments, likes light and is also shade-tolerant, likes warm and hot places without frost or snow and with much fog and high temperatures, and is not tolerant of drought, waterlogging, severe cold, or dry air. Cultivation should use loose, fertile, well-drained, acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter.
In the Peace Tree's native environment, Phalaenopsis orchids are abundantly produced, so under artificial cultivation conditions, it is advisable to create a warm, hot and humid environment for it.
The fruiting period is from August to September. The fruit tastes sweet with a trace of sourness.
Cultivation techniques of the Peace Tree, key cultivation points
Temperature
The suitable growth temperature for the Peace Tree is 20°C to 30°C. Small trees are not tolerant of low temperatures. If there are more than 5 days of frost, plants maintained or cultivated in the open field are prone to bark frost cracks, withered branches and leaves, and even the whole plant freezing to death. Whether it is a small number of household potted plants or large-scale commercial production cultivation, in winter the greenhouse temperature should be maintained at no lower than 5°C so that the leaves can always maintain their beautiful green appearance. Larger plants, when there is no cold wind blowing in the greenhouse, can endure short periods of low temperatures around 0°C. For potted plants in the Yangtze River basin, it is advisable to move them into the greenhouse before the arrival of Frost's Descent, and move them out after Qingming the following year. Be careful to prevent cold damage that may be caused by late frost or a late cold spell in spring. In midsummer, after the temperature exceeds 32°C, shade with a shelter and spray water on the leaves to increase humidity and lower temperature, so that they can maintain vigorous growth.
Light
The Peace Tree needs relatively good light, but is also fairly shade-tolerant. Its light requirement changes with age: young trees are shade-tolerant; for 3- to 5-year-old plants, under shaded conditions the plant height grows quickly; for 6- to 10-year-old plants, relatively sufficient light is required. After potted plants enter summer, they can be moved under tree shade or under a shade shed with 40% to 50% shading, and then growth is relatively ideal. If the light is too strong, it easily causes the leaves to turn yellow and lose their spirit, reducing their ornamental value. Especially for potted plants that have been displayed indoors for a relatively long time, when moved outdoors in summer for restorative care, you must be careful. It is advisable to first place them in a 40% to 50% shaded environment for care, and by no means rush, otherwise it is very easy to cause leaf scorch. In addition, in late spring and early summer, when encountering big sunny weather after a long period of rain clears, shade work should also be done in time, otherwise leaf scorch will likewise be caused, and it will be difficult to restore the fresh, green and lush spirit of the leaves in a short time.
Water
The Peace Tree requires an environment with moist potting soil. For this reason, potted plants should often keep the potting soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation. The relative humidity of the environment is best maintained above 80%. In the high-temperature summer season or in autumn when the air is relatively dry, including during winter when placed indoors, water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface and surrounding environment to create a relatively humid local micro-environment and promote robust growth. After autumn begins, watering should be controlled; in winter, spray more and water less. If there is water accumulation in the potting soil, it easily causes the plant to turn yellow, with lower leaves yellowing and then falling off, and in severe cases it can cause root rot and death of the plant, so special attention should be paid during the plum rain season.
Soil
For potted or bag-cultivated Peace Trees, it is advisable to use loose, breathable, well-drained, fertile acidic culture soil or leaf mold rich in organic matter. If the potting soil is compacted or the pH value is above 7.5, it will also cause yellowing of the plant's leaves, seriously poor growth and reduced sprouting ability, and affect sprout renewal, and even shorten its cultivation life. For this reason, small plants should be repotted once a year, and large plants can have their soil changed once every 2 years. During the growing season, loosen the soil once a month. Especially after heavy rain, check the flower pot in time. If water accumulation is found in the pot, pour it out as soon as possible and replace with loose potting soil. For potted plants, the annual time for repotting and changing soil is best arranged after they are moved out in spring and before sprouting.
Fertilizer
Peace Tree plants are full, with large leaves and relatively vigorous growth, so their fertilizer requirement is also relatively large. In addition to requiring fertile culture soil, potted Peace Trees can be given a thin application of cake fertilizer water or alum fertilizer water once a month from mid-spring to early autumn. After autumn begins, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 2 times in succession, such as 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, in order to increase the plant's cold resistance, promote early lignification of tender shoots, and enable it to pass the winter safely. In winter, all forms of topdressing should be stopped to prevent fertilizer damage to the roots, which can cause leaves to turn yellow or scorch and fall off; otherwise it is very difficult to restore the plant's original appearance.
Peace Tree cultivation methods. Why do Peace Trees develop yellow leaves?
First, water yellowing. Caused by overly frequent watering. Its characteristic is that old leaves show no obvious change while young leaves turn yellow; immediately control watering.
Second, drought yellowing. Caused by lack of water and drought. Its characteristic is that old leaves turn yellow first from the bottom upward. If the water shortage lasts a little longer, the whole plant's leaves will turn yellow, or it may even die; water in time.
Third, fertilizer yellowing. Caused by overly frequent fertilizing or too high a concentration; its characteristic is that young leaves are thick, glossy, and uneven; control fertilizer, loosen the soil, and water.
Fourth, starvation yellowing. Caused by insufficient fertilizer, too low a fertilizing concentration, and too long an interval between fertilizations; its characteristic is that the young leaves and tender stems turn yellow first. If this phenomenon is seen and fertilizer is not applied in time, it can also cause the whole plant's leaves to turn yellow or even die; for flowers lacking fertilizer, by no means apply a large amount of concentrated fertilizer at one time, so as to avoid burning the roots.
Fifth, iron-deficiency yellow leaves. In greenhouses, woody flowers and others often show yellow leaf phenomena because soil fertility conditions vary greatly. The characteristic is that young leaves are obvious, old leaves are lighter, the mesophyll is yellow, the veins are green, and a typical network forms; it can be solved by applying ferrous sulfate aqueous solution. The method is: mix 7 parts cake fertilizer, 5 parts ferrous sulfate, and 200 parts water into a diluted solution and water with it.
How to grow potted Peace Trees
1. Moderate light. The Peace Tree not only likes sunlight but is also quite shade-tolerant, but it cannot be placed in direct sunlight for prolonged exposure. Especially in summer, when placed in sunlight, a certain amount of shading is needed, preferably shading about 50% of its area, otherwise the sunlight may scorch the leaf surface. In winter, it can be exposed directly to sunlight without shading.
2. Suitable temperature. The Peace Tree likes warmth and heat and is not tolerant of cold. It is most suitable for growing at temperatures of 20 degrees to 30 degrees. In winter, it is best to move it indoors so that its growing environment is not below 5 degrees. In summer, when high temperatures reach above 30 degrees, some protection should also be done; water can be sprayed on the leaf surface to lower the temperature.
3. Correct watering. The Peace Tree likes a humid environment and is not tolerant of drought. Its potting soil should be kept relatively moist. In dry weather, spray water on the leaves. In summer, the leaves should be sprayed once a day, and the indoor relative air humidity should be maintained, preferably above 60%. When watering, water once first, then water again after half an hour; this can avoid the appearance of half-watering. The number of waterings depends on the season; water when the surface soil looks a little dry.
4. Soil and flower pot. The Peace Tree grows better in loose, breathable, fertile acidic leaf mold or culture soil rich in organic matter. It needs to have the soil loosened once a month and the potting soil changed once every two years. The bottom of the flower pot should be breathable, and it should not be too small, because the Peace Tree grows relatively fast, and if it is too small it will hinder its growth.
5. Fertilizing and pest prevention. Fertilize once a month except in winter; fertilizing in winter may damage the roots and stems. The Peace Tree can develop anthracnose, which makes the leaf surface, leaf tip, and leaf margin brown. When discovered, in addition to promptly removing the diseased leaves, also apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to improve the plant's resistance to pests and diseases. In addition, aphids and leaf rollers can also endanger the growth of the Peace Tree; when discovered, insecticide should be applied in time.
How to grow potted Peace Trees
Precautions
During plum rain weather, prevent water accumulation in the pot, otherwise it may damage the roots and stems.
6 major methods for growing the Peace Tree
Potting soil selection: For potted Peace Trees, the potting soil should preferably be loose, fertile, well-drained, acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. This is also the potting soil requirement for most indoor flower cultivation. If the soil has heavy stickiness or low acidity, it will cause the leaves of the cultivated plant to turn yellow and sprout renewal to decline, thereby affecting the plant's growth life.
Suitable temperature for cultivation: The best temperature for Peace Tree growth is 22°C to 30°C, and the lowest temperature must not be below 5°C. If freezing or consecutive frost days occur, insulation work should be done well to prevent bark frost cracks, withered branches and leaves, and in severe cases possible death by freezing.
Sunlight exposure requirements: All plant cultivation requires good light for photosynthesis in order to promote effective growth. As a light-loving plant, the Peace Tree naturally needs sufficient light, but at the same time it is also very afraid of strong sunlight exposure. Therefore, under the scorching sun in summer, effective shading protection should be given to the tree, and the potted plant can also be placed in a position with weaker indoor sunlight; it can still grow well there, because the Peace Tree is relatively shade-tolerant. In addition, for plants grown for three to five years, direct sunlight exposure should be avoided, while for plants grown for six to ten years, more light can be given to promote effective growth.
How to handle watering: During the spring and summer growing seasons of the Peace Tree, always keep its potting soil moist, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface and the cultivation environment to maintain good air humidity in its growing environment. In addition, when watering, some vinegar can be added to increase the acidity in the soil. Especially for the relatively acid-deficient soil in the north, vinegar can be added to the water to adjust the soil's acidity.
Cultivation fertilizing knowledge: For newly planted potted plants, after they sprout, fertilize once a month, but during the fertilizing process, be careful to apply it thinly and lightly, and do not apply it too concentrated or in too large an amount, otherwise it easily causes the roots of the cultivated plant to be scorched, leading to leaves withering and yellowing until death. In addition, before winter begins, some potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied to enhance the plant's cold resistance.
Loosening soil and repotting: During the growing season of potted Peace Trees, it is best to loosen the soil once a month to always keep its root system in a well-ventilated state. Small Peace Trees can be repotted once a year, and large Peace Trees can be repotted once every 2~3 years. When repotting, some necrotic roots can be cut off first to ensure normal growth of the potted plant.
Key cultivation points
1. Temperature
Its suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 30°C. Small trees are not tolerant of low temperatures. If there are more than 5 days of frost, plants maintained or cultivated in the open field are prone to bark frost cracks, withered branches and leaves, and even the whole plant freezing to death. Whether it is a small number of household potted plants or large-scale commercial production cultivation, in winter the greenhouse temperature should be maintained at no lower than 5°C so that the leaves can always maintain their beautiful green appearance. Larger plants, when there is no cold wind blowing in the greenhouse, can endure short periods of low temperatures around 0°C. For potted plants in the Yangtze River basin, it is advisable to move them into the greenhouse before the arrival of Frost's Descent, and move them out after Qingming the following year. Be careful to prevent cold damage that may be caused by late frost or a late cold spell in spring. In midsummer, after the temperature exceeds 32°C, shade with a shelter and spray water on the leaves to increase humidity and lower temperature, so that they can maintain vigorous growth.
2. Light
Lanyu cinnamon needs relatively good light, but is also fairly shade-tolerant. Its light requirement changes with age: young trees are shade-tolerant; for 3- to 5-year-old plants, under shaded conditions the plant height grows quickly; for 6- to 10-year-old plants, relatively sufficient light is required. After potted plants enter summer, they can be moved under tree shade or under a shade shed with 40% to 50% shading, and then growth is relatively ideal. If the light is too strong, it easily causes the leaves to turn yellow and lose their spirit, reducing their ornamental value. Especially for potted plants that have been displayed indoors for a relatively long time, when moved outdoors in summer for restorative care, you must be careful. It is advisable to first place them in a 40% to 50% shaded environment for care, and by no means rush, otherwise it is very easy to cause leaf scorch. In addition, in late spring and early summer, when encountering big sunny weather after a long period of rain clears, shade work should also be done in time, otherwise leaf scorch will likewise be caused, and it will be difficult to restore the fresh, green and lush spirit of the leaves in a short time.
3. Water
Lanyu cinnamon requires an environment with moist potting soil. For this reason, potted plants should often keep the potting soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation. The relative humidity of the environment is best maintained above 80%. In the high-temperature summer season or in autumn when the air is relatively dry, including during winter when placed indoors, water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface and surrounding environment to create a relatively humid local micro-environment and promote robust growth. After autumn begins, watering should be controlled; in winter, spray more and water less. If there is water accumulation in the potting soil, it easily causes the plant to turn yellow, with lower leaves yellowing and then falling off, and in severe cases it can cause root rot and death of the plant, so special attention should be paid during the plum rain season.
4. Soil
For potted or bag-cultivated Lanyu cinnamon, it is advisable to use loose, breathable, well-drained, fertile acidic culture soil or leaf mold rich in organic matter. If the potting soil is compacted or the pH value is above 7.5, it will also cause yellowing of the plant's leaves, seriously poor growth and reduced sprouting ability, and affect sprout renewal, and even shorten its cultivation life. For this reason, small plants should be repotted once a year, and large plants can have their soil changed once every 2 years. During the growing season, loosen the soil once a month. Especially after heavy rain, check the flower pot in time. If water accumulation is found in the pot, pour it out as soon as possible and replace with loose potting soil. For potted plants, the annual time for repotting and changing soil is best arranged after they are moved out in spring and before sprouting.
5. Fertilizer
Lanyu cinnamon plants are full, with large leaves and relatively vigorous growth, so their fertilizer requirement is also relatively large. In addition to requiring fertile culture soil, potted Lanyu cinnamon can be given a thin application of cake fertilizer water or alum fertilizer water once a month from mid-spring to early autumn. After autumn begins, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 2 times in succession, such as 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, in order to increase the plant's cold resistance, promote early lignification of tender shoots, and enable it to pass the winter safely. In winter, all forms of topdressing should be stopped to prevent fertilizer damage to the roots, which can cause leaves to turn yellow or scorch and fall off; otherwise it is very difficult to restore the plant's original appearance.
Disease control of the Peace Tree
1. Anthracnose
It mainly harms leaves at the seedling stage and adult plants. When leaves are infected, it mostly occurs on the leaf surface, leaf tip, and leaf margin, appearing brown and irregular in shape, and later often expands or fuses into large grayish brown spots with brown, wavy edges. On the spots many small black granular points are produced, which are its acervuli. Conidia spread by wind and rain. When humidity is high, the spores germinate and invade leaves or seedlings to cause damage. It is prone to occur during continuous rainy weather, insufficient sunlight, heavy clay soil, or when moisture stagnates in the greenhouse. It is most prevalent from February to April. Control method: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and destroy them in time; during the growing season, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to improve plant resistance; in the early stage of the disease, alternately spray with 25% carbendazim? wettable powder 500 times solution, or 60% Carbendazim wettable powder 700 times solution, or 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 600 times solution, once every 10 to 15 days, 3 to 4 times in succession.
2. Brown spot disease
It occurs on new leaves of the plant between April and May. At first, oval yellow-brown lesions appear on the leaf surface, then continuously expand, and more small black granular points appear within the lesions on the upper side of the leaf. The underside of the lesions is purple, so that the whole leaf yellows and wilts, causing the plant to drop a large number of leaves. Control method: 1% Bordeaux mixture can be used for prevention; when a small number of diseased leaves appear, remove and burn them in time; in the early stage of the disease, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times solution, or 50% benomyl wettable powder 1000 times solution, or 50% fungicide king aqueous solution 1000 times solution, alternately sprayed once every 10 days, 3 to 4 times in succession.
3. Brown root rot
The leaves of diseased trees gradually turn yellow and droop; in severe cases they turn brown and dry up, the stems lose water and shrink, the root system turns brown and rots, and the diseased plant dies within a short period. Diseased roots, diseased soil, and remaining diseased plant residues are the primary infection sources of this disease. It is transmitted by wind and rain or contact, and generally occurs in individual plants. Control method: For severely diseased plants and plants that died from the disease, pull them out by the root and burn them, and disinfect with 50% carbendazim wettable powder 600 times solution; in the early stage of the disease, spray 50% thiophanate-methyl? sulfur suspension concentrate 800 times solution, or 50% root rot spirit wettable powder 800 times solution, for control.
Pests:
① Leaf roller
It mostly occurs between summer and autumn. It rolls several new leaves into a nest, and the larvae hide inside and feed on the leaves. It can be killed by spraying with 90% trichlorfon crystal 800 times solution, or 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution.
② Aphids
Aphids are prone to occur on the tender leaves and new buds of Lanyu cinnamon, piercing and sucking to cause damage, causing the leaves to be covered with grease, and subsequently inducing sooty mold, affecting the plant's growth and display ornamental value. Control method: after scattering plant ash on the plant, rinse it clean with clear water; spraying chinaberry leaf juice can effectively kill insects; use 10% imidacloprid wettable powder 2000 times solution for spraying and killing.
Solutions
The main reasons for yellowing or falling leaves in the Peace Tree include the following aspects:
One: It is due to accidents or special circumstances that cause severe damage to the plant's root system, resulting in yellowing of the leaves.
Second: the indoor temperature drops below 5°C, and cold damage causes the leaves of the Malabar cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense) to turn yellow and fall.
Third: overwatering causes the roots at the bottom to rot, which in turn makes the plant's leaves turn yellow and drop.
Fourth: the water is heavily alkaline, causing the leaves to yellow slowly. This situation is fairly common in the north, especially in ** and other places.
Fifth: improper fertilization. Too much or too concentrated fertilizer causes the fine feeding roots to lose water, shrivel and die.
Sixth: long exposure to the scorching sun causes the leaves to dry out and turn yellow.
The way to solve yellowing leaves on the Malabar cinnamon is: when you notice the leaves turning yellow, immediately check whether the root system is growing normally. If you find signs of root rot, remove the rotted parts at once, cut off the yellow or dead leaves, and replant it once.
Notes: when replanting, you can spread some moist fine sand around the cut part of the roots. The purpose is to help the Malabar cinnamon sprout new roots. At this time, reduce watering appropriately and spray more water mist. Once the Malabar cinnamon puts out new leaves, do the fertilizing work and increase light. This will quickly promote the growth of the Malabar cinnamon.
Propagation methods of the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon is mostly propagated by sowing seeds for seedlings and by cuttings. In addition, flower lovers can also try layering to raise seedlings.
Seed propagation
In South China, mature purple-black fruits can be sown from September to October. After washing off the fruit skin and flesh, float off the empty, shriveled seeds, spread them in a cool place to dry, and sow them as soon as they are collected. If the weather is bad or the nursery plot is not yet ready and sowing cannot be done immediately, the seeds need to be stored in moist sand in a cool place, taking care to prevent the seeds from molding. Wait until the seeds crack and show white, then sow them in the ground or in bags. For seeds not stratified in sand to promote germination, before sowing they can be soaked for 30 minutes in a 0.3% formalin solution, the excess liquid poured off, sealed for 2 hours, then rinsed with clean water to remove the liquid adhering to the seed coat, and immediately soaked in clean water for 24 hours; this can raise the germination rate. If the seeds are not disinfected, they can be soaked directly in warm water of about 40°C, which can also raise the germination rate. Usually drill sowing in furrows is the main method, with row spacing of 20 cm to 25 cm, plant spacing of 5 cm to 7 cm, and a soil covering thickness of 1.5 cm to 2 cm. Cover with rice straw to keep moist, and they will germinate after 20 to 30 days. Keep the seedbed moist. After one third of the seeds emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 rounds, and then build a shade frame. When the seedlings grow 3 to 4 true leaves, apply a liquid fertilizer once a month, stop applying it after autumn, do a good job of cold protection, and overwinter at a greenhouse temperature of no less than about 5°C. Because the plant has relatively few fine roots, transplanting should be done early, or use sand-bed germination with the sprouted seedlings transplanted into bags. In the southern region, bag sowing or bag cultivation to produce commercial seedlings works very well.
Cutting propagation
The cutting time for the Malabar cinnamon is April to May in the first half of the year and September to October in the second half. The best time is when the temperature is 22°C to 28°C. For cuttings, use nutrient pots or flower pots, and use pure vermiculite or a 1:1 ratio of vermiculite to peat as the substrate. Before cutting, the substrate should be disinfected. You can use 0.1% potassium permanganate or a 600 to 800 times dilution of Dexon and other solutions to drench it, or expose it to the sun.
The cuttings should be selected from branches with strong apical dominance, semi-lignified from the current year, robust and full, free of pathogen infection, and with bright green leaves. It is best to cut them in the morning when there is dew or on a cloudy day.
Cut the cuttings into 10 cm to 15 cm lengths, leaving 2 to 3 leaves to reduce water loss. Cut the lower end of the cutting into a slanted cut, leaving 3 cm to 5 cm. Soak the base 3 cm to 5 cm of the prepared cutting in a rooting solution (2.5 g diluted in 2 kg of water, soak slowly for 2 to 3 hours; for quick soaking, dilute in 0.2 kg of water and soak for 15 to 30 seconds) or in a strong rooting agent (each 5 g packet diluted in 0.5 kg of water, soak the base for 16 to 20 hours). After soaking, take it out and insert it 3 cm to 5 cm into the substrate. Too shallow and it easily lodges; too deep and it easily molds and rots. Then press it firm with your fingers. Insert one seedling per small pot. After cutting, water thoroughly until water flows out of the bottom of the pot. Cover the entire cutting with a plastic bag to maintain 100% humidity, and place it in a cool place, avoiding direct sunlight.
About 4 days after cutting, water thoroughly once. In the north, add a few drops of hydrochloric acid or a few drops of edible vinegar each time you water, keeping the pH at about 5.8, and the cuttings will root easily. When the substrate moisture is high, do not water, but keep the substrate moist, with the relative humidity of the environment at about 80%. Too little watering and the cuttings die of drought; too much watering causes the wound tissue to mold and rot. After about 15 days, tie on the plastic bag, and after about 20 days remove the plastic bag. After removing the plastic, you can increase the time of weak sunlight in the morning and evening. After 25 days rooting begins, and after about a month new roots 1 cm to 2 cm long grow. After 2 months roots 5 cm to 6 cm long grow. If the old leaves do not drop and new roots form, it shows the cutting has survived. At this stage it should be moved into a larger pot, with a substrate ratio of 2:1 leaf mold to fine sand, or sandy loam. When moving to the pot, pull up the cutting with its substrate, plant it into the large pot, then fill it with the prepared substrate and water thoroughly. One week later, apply a compound fertilizer at 1‰ concentration. After the plant sends out new leaves, apply a diluted cake fertilizer water once a month, and after autumn apply 2 consecutive doses of 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to increase the plant's cold resistance, help the tender shoots lignify early, and enable it to pass the winter safely. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer and heavy fertilizer, and especially do not use high-concentration chemical fertilizer solution, otherwise it very easily causes fertilizer burn to the roots, leading to yellowed, scorched leaves and plant death.
Variety classification and plant differences of the Malabar cinnamon
Cinnamomum japonicum
(C. japonicum), an evergreen tree, over 10 m tall, with cylindrical, pale yellow-green, hairless branchlets; leaves leathery, alternate or also nearly opposite, ovate-oblong, 7 cm to 10 cm long, 3 cm to 3.5 cm wide, dark green and glossy on the surface, grayish green on the underside, with three basal veins, the basal lateral veins extending from 1 cm to 1.5 cm at the base. Flowering in May, fruit ripening in September. Produced in Taiwan, China, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Anhui, Hubei and other places; also distributed in Japan and Korea. This species is relatively cold-resistant, able to withstand low temperatures of -10°C, and can be used for landscaping.
Cinnamomum cassia
(C. cassia), also known as Yucui and Tonggui. A tree, with grayish brown bark, young branches slightly four-angled, densely covered with yellow-brown down; leaves alternate or nearly opposite, thickly leathery, long elliptic to nearly lanceolate, 8 cm to 16 cm long, 4 cm to 5.5 cm wide, bright green on the surface, sparsely short-downy on the underside, with rolled-in leaf margins, three basal veins, the lateral veins extending from 0.5 cm to 1 cm at the leaf base, with many small veins on one side toward the leaf margin, the transverse veins wavy and nearly parallel; petiole 1.2 cm to 2 cm long, covered with yellow short down. Flowering from May to June, fruiting from October to December. Produced in Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian, Yunnan, Hainan, Taiwan, China, Hunan and other places. It can withstand extreme low temperatures of about -4°C.
Cinnamomum subavenium
(C. subavenium), also known as fine-leaved fragrant cinnamon and native cinnamon. An evergreen large fragrant tree, up to 12 m to 20 m tall, with gray, smooth bark; current-year branchlets slender, densely covered with yellow appressed short down; leaves leathery, nearly opposite on young branches and alternate on old branches, elliptic to lanceolate, 4 cm to 13 cm long, 1.5 cm to 6 cm wide, dark green above, yellow-green below, with three veins or three basal veins, concave above and convex below. Flowering from June to July, fruiting from August to October. Produced in Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Hubei, Guangxi, Guangdong, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Anhui, Fujian, Taiwan, China and other places.
Ceylon cinnamon
(C. zeylanicum), namely Sri Lankan cinnamon. An evergreen tree, up to 10 m tall, with young branches slightly four-angled and bearing white spots; leaves opposite, 11 cm to 16 cm long, 4.5 cm to 5.5 cm wide, ovate to ovate-lanceolate, green on the surface, greenish pale on the underside, hairless on both sides, with three veins extending from the base to the tip, leathery and entire, young leaves dark red. Flowers yellow, about 6 mm long; fruit ovate, 1 cm to 1.5 cm long, black. Native to Sri Lanka; introduced and cultivated in Guangdong and Taiwan, China. It is a famous spice plant and a high-grade landscape tree.
Distribution area of the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon is widely produced in southern Taiwan, China (Lanyu), and is produced in southern Taiwan, China (Lanyu).
The Malabar cinnamon is undoubtedly close to the Philippine Cinnamomum myrianthum Merr., but as Zhang Qing'en said in the Flora of Taiwan, the leaf characteristics of the plants produced in Lanyu, Taiwan, China do not fully match Merrill's description. At the same time, the inflorescence of Cinnamomum myrianthum reaches 15 cm long, while the fruit cluster of the Malabar cinnamon is very short and small. Therefore, in the absence of collected flowers at present, it is preferable not to merge them for the time being.
The role and uses of the Malabar cinnamon: potted plant uses
The Malabar cinnamon is a foliage plant. Its flower language is praying for peace, family happiness, and that all goes well. Because it is named "Ping'an" (peace), it is widely loved by the public. Moreover, its body is rich in cinnamon oil, which can give off a fragrance that corrects odors and purifies the air, making it very suitable for indoor cultivation.
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Landscape uses of the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon is both a beautiful potted foliage plant and a very pretty landscape tree.
Cultural background of the Malabar cinnamon: the origin of the Malabar cinnamon
The origin of the Malabar cinnamon actually has a beautiful and touching legend: it is said that long ago, a heavenly dragon was injured and fell into what is now the territory of Mangka Manchu Township, Jiutai City, and could not move. Because of the sun and drought with little rain, the heavenly dragon was at its last breath. After hearing the news, the local people spontaneously came to build a shade shelter for this dragon to prevent sun exposure, and took turns watering the dragon every day. After seven seven forty-nine days, this dragon recovered from its injury and rose up riding clouds and mist. To thank these kind-hearted common people for saving its life and to bless them with happiness and peace, it threw one of its dragon pearls onto what is now Husong Ridge in Hujia, Jiutai City. Before long this dragon pearl turned into an elm tree. The tree's form grew like a coiling dragon and crouching tiger. In the dog days of summer it would shed tears, and those were the heavenly dragon's tears of gratitude. Whoever drank the tears of gratitude would have all their wishes come true. In winter the tree was verdant, and that was the heavenly dragon's blessing. Whoever saw it would have all go well. Later people named the place where the heavenly dragon healed its injury Longpeng (now Mangka Longpeng Village), and the tree transformed from the dragon pearl was called the Ping'an Tree. For hundreds of years, on the first and fifteenth day of every lunar month, people from all over the country have come to worship and pray for peace, family happiness, and that all goes well.
The Malabar cinnamon symbolizes beautiful wishes such as praying for peace, family happiness, and that all goes well.
Origin of the name
The origin of the name "Ping'an Tree": "Ping'an Tree" is an elegant name for Cinnamomum kotoense. Because its bark can be used as medicine, with effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, relieving pain and resolving stasis, and invigorating blood and strengthening the stomach, and because its plant body is rich in cinnamon oil (the main component is cinnamaldehyde), and can give off a fragrance that corrects odors and purifies the air, people in the flower planting and business industries gave it an auspicious name, "Ping'an Tree," to cater to urban people's consumer psychology of loving greenery and beauty and hoping for peace, and also to use it to relax people's nerves from tense work. Therefore it is quite popular among urban people in both the north and the south, and although the price is not low, it still sells well.
Tracing the name
Scientists gave the Malabar cinnamon a very long name: Dracaena fragrans cv. "Massangeana", whose Latin scientific name is Rad ermachera sinica.
The Malabar cinnamon has a graceful form, with small emerald-green leaves and swaying tree shadows. It is a very precious indoor ornamental plant. You can write your wishes for happiness on cards and hang them on the tree. The happiness tree is the representative tree of Hawaii, because people believe it can bring happiness, so many people place it in front of their homes.
Regarding the names happiness tree and Ping'an Tree, most were named by flower and tree sellers to cater to consumers' consumer psychology, based on some characteristic of the plant and adding people's expectations of praying for blessings, hoping for wealth and seeking peace.
Flower language of the Malabar cinnamon
Flower language of the Malabar cinnamon: praying for peace, family happiness, and that all goes well.
Pictures of the Malabar cinnamon
Complete guide to the cultivation methods and precautions of the Malabar cinnamon
The real name of the Malabar cinnamon is Cinnamomum kotoense, and Ping'an Tree is only its alternative name. The tree belongs to the evergreen Lauraceae plants, and is native to Lanyu Island in Taiwan, China. The trunk of the Malabar cinnamon is upright, yellow-green in color, smooth and without down. The leaves of the Malabar cinnamon are generally opposite or nearly opposite, with the leaf surface bright green and with a metallic-like luster, while the underside is grayish green. The Malabar cinnamon has many cultivation uses: it can be used as a potted landscape plant, and can also be a very pretty landscape plant. In addition, it also has effects such as purifying indoor air and absorbing decoration pollution.
The Malabar cinnamon is shade-tolerant and likes diffused light. At different growth stages, it has different requirements for light. At 3-5 years it is shade-tolerant and needs shading; at 6-10 years it needs sufficient light. Its requirements for soil are not very high either, as long as it is loose and fertile, well-drained, and slightly acidic. Generally no watering is needed; spray the leaves with water once every 2-3 days, and water thoroughly about once a week. Especially after the beginning of autumn, water even less and spray more. Water accumulation can cause leaf drop and plant yellowing, and in severe cases root rot. Below is a detailed introduction to how to grow the Malabar cinnamon:
Complete guide to the cultivation methods and precautions of the Malabar cinnamon
1. Soil selection for growing the Malabar cinnamon
For potted Malabar cinnamon, use loose, fertile, well-drained acidic soil rich in organic matter. Soil that is compacted and clayey, or that lacks enough acidity, has poor drainage, or has a compacted pot soil, may all cause fine root rot, causing the plant's leaves to yellow and poor growth. Leaf mold can be used for cultivation. Small Malabar cinnamon plants should be repotted once a year, and large plants on average once every 2-3 years.
2. Watering methods for growing the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon likes moisture. Normally, water when half of the pot soil surface has dried. When the weather is dry, frequently spray or mist the leaf surface. In winter, water after about half of the pot soil has dried.
The Malabar cinnamon likes an environment with relatively high air humidity; generally only when the relative humidity is greater than 80% can it grow vigorously. In summer or in the dry autumn, and even when placed indoors in winter, the leaf surface should be sprayed with water frequently to create a relatively moist spatial environment for it. If water accumulates in the pot, it easily leads to root rot.
3. Fertilizing methods for growing the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon relatively likes fertilizer. During the growing season, apply a compound quick-acting fertilizer once a month, and after autumn apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer 1-2 times to increase the cold resistance of the Malabar cinnamon plant. Applying too much fertilizer, including raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer and heavy fertilizer, will scorch and kill its fine roots, causing leaves to yellow and fall. You can take the Malabar cinnamon plant out of the flower pot and carefully check whether its root system has any rot.
If the fine roots turn brown or black and are accompanied by an abnormal smell, it proves the root system has rotted. First cut off the rotted fine roots until you reach a fresh fine root cut surface. At the same time cut off part of the branches and leaves, replace with clean fresh loose sandy loam for planting, change watering to spraying, keep the pot soil moist, and after better roots have been induced, switch to fertile culture soil for planting.
From spring to autumn, apply a small amount of compound fertilizer granules with a nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium ratio of 2:1:1 once a month; stop fertilizing in winter when the temperature is low.
4. Temperature requirements for growing the Malabar cinnamon
The suitable growth temperature for the Malabar cinnamon is 20-30°C. Its cold resistance is relatively weak, and it cannot tolerate low temperatures below 0°C, otherwise it easily causes the bark to freeze and crack and the branches and leaves to wither, and small trees will freeze to death roots and all. Household potted plants should maintain a room temperature of about 10°C to overwinter, which can keep the Malabar cinnamon always emerald green.
5. Light requirements for growing the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon's light requirements change with age. When young it is shade-tolerant, and 3-5 year old plants grow faster under shaded conditions; 6-10 year old plants require relatively sufficient sunlight. After potted plants enter summer, do not give full light. You can place them under the dense shade of large trees or under a shade frame, giving about 50% diffused light, and let them receive sufficient light in the morning and evening, so growth will be relatively ideal. If the light is too strong, it easily causes leaf yellowing and affects the ornamental effect.
6. Four-season management for growing the Malabar cinnamon
(1) Spring management
Potted Malabar cinnamon should be brought outdoors around Qingming Festival in spring, but after being brought out, attention should still be paid to preventing cold damage possibly caused by late frost or a late cold spell in spring. In late spring and early summer, it is best to cultivate it with about 30% shading, keeping the pot soil moist but not waterlogged, and the relative air humidity is best kept above 80%.
Besides requiring fertile culture soil and sufficient base fertilizer, potted Malabar cinnamon can be given a diluted liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once a month from mid-spring to early autumn. In spring it is prone to anthracnose and brown spot disease, which can be prevented with 1% equal-strength Bordeaux mixture. A small number of diseased leaves can be removed promptly and burned.
(2) Summer management
In summer, with high temperatures and strong light, potted Malabar cinnamon needs 40%-60% shading for cultivation. If the light is too strong, it easily causes leaves to yellow and lowers its due ornamental value. Especially for potted plants that have been displayed indoors for a relatively long time, when moved outdoors in summer for restorative care, be sure to be careful and gradually increase the light, and never rush, otherwise it easily causes leaf scorch. When the temperature exceeds 32°C, also frequently spray water on the leaf surface and around it to increase humidity and lower temperature, so that it can maintain vigorous growth. Apply a diluted liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once a month. In summer leaf-rolling insects are common, and pyrethrin can be sprayed to kill them.
(3) Autumn management
After the beginning of autumn the temperature gradually drops. Potted Malabar cinnamon should have watering controlled, gradually reduce the amount of watering, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface and around it to increase humidity. After rain, pour out water from the pot in time to drain it, avoiding water accumulation in the pot soil, which causes leaves to yellow and fall, and even root rot and death. Before the autumn temperature drops, apply 0.2%-0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2 consecutive times to increase the plant's cold resistance, help the tender shoots lignify early, and ensure safe overwintering.
The Malabar cinnamon is mostly propagated by sowing seeds for seedlings, and the suitable period is September-October in autumn. Mature purple-black fruits can be collected for sowing. After washing off the fruit skin and flesh, float off the empty, shriveled seeds, spread them in a cool place to dry. The seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water of about 40°C for 30 minutes, or the seeds can be stratified with moist sand to promote germination and then sown, and they will germinate after 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow 3-4 true leaves, apply a liquid fertilizer once a month, stop fertilizing after autumn, and keep the temperature no lower than 5°C to ensure safe overwintering.
(4) Winter management
Small Malabar cinnamon trees cannot tolerate low temperatures and need to be brought indoors in time for cultivation. The overwintering temperature should be no lower than 5°C. If plants maintained or cultivated in the open field encounter more than 5 days of frost, it very easily causes the bark to freeze and crack and the branches and leaves to wither, and even the whole plant to freeze to death. Larger plants can endure short periods of low temperatures around 0°C. In winter, watering should be controlled, keeping the soil on the dry side, and all forms of topdressing should be stopped to prevent fertilizer damage to the roots, which causes leaves to yellow or scorch and fall, and makes it very hard to restore the plant's original appearance.
7. Precautions for growing the Malabar cinnamon
(1) Small Malabar cinnamon plants should be repotted once a year, and large plants can be repotted once every 2 years. The suitable repotting period is after being brought outdoors in spring and before budding. Each repotting requires discarding about 1/3 of the old soil and replacing it with loose, fertile new soil and base fertilizer. Normally loosen the surface soil once a month. Especially after heavy rain, check the flower pot in time; if water accumulation is found in the pot, pour it out as soon as possible and replace with loose pot soil.
(2) The Malabar cinnamon is prone to brown root disease in autumn. In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% thiophanate-methyl · sulfur suspension concentrate at 800 times dilution or 50% root rot spirit wettable powder at 800 times dilution for control. For severely diseased plants and plants that have died from the disease, pull them out roots and all and burn them, and disinfect with carbendazim at 600 times dilution.
Complete guide to the cultivation methods and precautions of the Malabar cinnamon
8. Propagation methods for growing the Malabar cinnamon
The Malabar cinnamon is mostly propagated by cuttings. Cutting propagation is mostly carried out in spring and summer. You can choose robust one-year-old tender branches, cut them into 2-3 node long segments of 15-18 cm each as cuttings. The lower end cut of the cutting is slanted, and the upper end cut is perpendicular to the main stem. Leave 3-4 leaves at the tip of the tender branch cutting, and cut off 4/5 of each leaf. Insert the prepared cuttings into a substrate prepared in advance, and they can survive in about 30 days.
9. Feng shui of the Malabar cinnamon
Placing a Malabar cinnamon in the home can use it to relax people's nerves from tense work, let people experience a relaxed mood, and increase the comfort of the home.
At home it can be placed in relatively spacious places such as the living room and balcony, because the Malabar cinnamon is an evergreen plant that can change the indoor airflow and increase the indoor vitality, letting people feel a warm breath of life. At the same time, the Malabar cinnamon can eliminate indoor odors, bringing people health and peace.