Correct Pruning Methods and Winter Care Tips for the Umbrella Tree
The umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola) is a common woody plant in tropical and subtropical regions, native to South America, Guangdong and Fujian in China, and is now widely cultivated around the world. Potted specimens placed in living rooms, studies and bedrooms lend a rich modern ambience.
How do you prune an umbrella tree correctly
The umbrella tree grows slowly, yet it is extremely prone to producing leggy shoots, and before you know it, it has turned into one of those "other people's plants", unrecognisable. So in daily care, be sure to prune and shape it in time.
1. Thinning and light pruning for young umbrella trees
A young umbrella tree has not yet taken shape, and this is the most suitable time for styling. The method is very simple: just promptly cut off overcrowded branches and leaves, or branches that grow unevenly or too long.
2. Heavy pruning for old umbrella trees
Old plants that have grown for 4 to 5 years have thick trunks and a large form, and need heavy pruning.
This umbrella tree has already grown for 7 years and has become leggy, its appearance a complete mess that seriously ruins its looks. At this point, you can prune it during the Spring Festival in combination with repotting. When repotting, trim the old roots and shorten the overly tall branches to encourage new shoots to sprout.
In addition, you can tie the outward-spreading branches with string so that they grow upward.
3. Tying up the umbrella tree
Ring-barking a cutting-propagated umbrella tree branch:
Many household umbrella trees come from cuttings; the base of the stem has fewer leaves and grows longer and longer over time, which spoils its looks.
At the position marked with a box in the picture, score the branch a few times with a blade (vertical cuts or a ring cut, whichever, as long as the plant's life is not harmed, that is, just slightly wound the bark), then pile soil around it to enclose the part below in soil. After some time, when new roots grow from the wound, cut off the original lowest roots and replant it. This lowers its height without affecting the shape of the upper part.
4. Pruning method for an umbrella tree that has lost all its leaves
Households often encounter the situation where an umbrella tree drops its leaves: all the leaves at the top fall off, with only a few leaves at the bottom. In this case, cut it back at the halfway point to encourage new shoots; the cut branches can also be used for cuttings, and after rooting they will become new plants. Cutting back is generally done in summer.
How to care for an umbrella tree in winter
1. Winter care temperature for the umbrella tree
The umbrella tree is a plant native to tropical regions and likes a hot, humid growing environment. In winter, temperatures sometimes cannot reach a relatively high level.
Basically, the umbrella tree needs a relatively high overwintering temperature in winter, not below 5°C. If the temperature is above 0°C, the plant will still suffer cold damage and drop a large number of leaves. However, if the umbrella tree's stem is still intact, it can sprout again in the spring of the following year.
In winter, the umbrella tree only needs suitable light; do not keep it in a dark place for long periods.
2. Winter pruning of the umbrella tree
At the end of winter and the beginning of spring, the umbrella tree is about to start sprouting again, and this is the best time to prune and shape the branches. Young umbrella trees only need thinning and light pruning; the main purpose is still shaping. Mature plants, if relatively tall, can be heavily pruned.
3. Winter watering of the umbrella tree
The umbrella tree likes a humid environment, but in winter do not water heavily; instead, control the amount of water. However, to maintain proper humidity, you can mist the umbrella tree appropriately, which serves to supplement moisture.
4. Winter fertilising of the umbrella tree
In winter, the umbrella tree also needs controlled fertilising; by no means fertilise at random, as this will cause the soil to harden. In winter, apply liquid fertiliser or compound fertiliser once a month, but note that the amount should be small.
Common methods for growing indoor plants
Key points of this article
Flower pots, watering can, soil, fertiliser, pruning shears...
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1. How to grow Alocasia macrorrhizos (effective at removing dust from the air; do not place in the bedroom)
1. Temperature. Alocasia macrorrhizos can only grow well in an environment no lower than 18°C. If the temperature is below 18°C, it will enter a dormant state and stop growing. 2. Fertilising. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes fertiliser; apply fertiliser to it every month. 3. Watering. In summer, Alocasia macrorrhizos needs more water, but not excessively; it is suitable to alternate between dry and wet, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it goes dormant, so water less and stop fertilising. 4. Sunlight. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes shade; do not let direct sunlight hit it. If Alocasia macrorrhizos becomes "wilted", it is mainly because of insufficient fertilising, so be sure to apply extra fertiliser. Care: Alocasia macrorrhizos likes a warm, humid environment with slight shade, but during the flowering period it needs ample sunlight, otherwise the spathe will take on a green tinge, affecting quality. You must ensure 3 to 5 hours of light per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate and reduce its ornamental value. Alocasia macrorrhizos is not very cold-hardy; it should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, it needs to be kept shaded and misted frequently to cool it down and keep it moist. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes moist, fertile soil, that is, what is commonly called "heavy fertiliser and heavy water"; during the growing period it needs plenty of water.
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2. How to grow African jasmine (the volatile oils it produces have a marked sterilising effect. It can help people relax, is conducive to sleep, and can also improve work efficiency)
1. Temperature. African jasmine grows well in a warm climate, with an optimum growing temperature of 18°C to 32°C. When the summer temperature is above 38°C, the plant's growth will be inhibited; in parts of South China it can be grown in the ground and overwinter outdoors, while north of the Yangtze River potted plants require a winter greenhouse temperature no lower than 3°C to 5°C. 2. Light. African jasmine likes sunlight, and its native environment is mostly semi-shaded; in South China, where it is grown in the ground as a garden landscaping tree, it is best to choose a spot with lateral shade; north of the Yangtze River, where it is potted, it can receive full light in spring and autumn, while in summer it needs a shade frame or to be moved under the dense shade of a large tree, and at the very least it must avoid direct light for several hours around noon; it is particularly worth noting that from June to July, when a clear sunny day follows a long spell of rain and the temperature suddenly rises with very intense light, shade work must be done well to prevent young tender shoots and tender leaves from being scorched. For potted plants in public places, relatively ample scattered light is required, or they should be placed near a window; they should not be too dark, otherwise the leaves will lose their green colour and turn yellow or drop off. 3. Water. Whether grown in the ground or in pots, ample water is required, but there must be no standing water at the roots, otherwise the roots easily rot. In spring and autumn, water to the extent of keeping the potting soil moist; during the plum rain season, be careful to guard against standing water; in the scorching summer, spray water once each in the morning and afternoon to increase humidity and lower temperature; in winter, for indoor potted plants, it is appropriate to keep the potting soil slightly damp, and around noon when the temperature is relatively higher, spray a moderate amount of water on the leaves. In spring, summer and autumn, under normal fertilising, if the lower leaves of a potted plant turn yellow and drop off, it is very likely due to root rot from standing water, and the pot should be repotted with fresh soil promptly; in summer, if watering has been neglected and new tender shoots wilt and droop, do not immediately give the potting soil a heavy watering, but first spray some water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover somewhat, then give the potting soil a moderate amount of water. 4. Soil. In the south, the planting site should be loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam. For potted plants in the north, you can use a mix of 7 parts leaf mould, 1 part river sand, 1 part composted organic fertiliser and 1 part fermented sawdust. During the growing season, loosen the soil of potted plants once a month, always keeping the roots in a well-aerated state. In addition, potted plants can have their soil changed once every 1 to 2 years. 5. Fertiliser. During the growing season, apply a dilute, well-rotted cake fertiliser solution once a month to potted plants, and apply a phosphorus-potassium fertiliser once before flowering in May to promote flowering; after autumn, apply phosphorus-potassium fertiliser another 1 to 2 times to see them safely through winter. For potted plants in the north, to prevent leaf yellowing, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate when watering with fertiliser during the growing season. When planting in the ground, apply sufficient base fertiliser; in late autumn, dig trenches around the outer roots and bury cake fertiliser, 0.5 to 1 kg per plant;
Pest and disease control 1. Diseases ① Anthracnose mostly occurs on tender branches and leaves, with nearly circular to irregular sunken spots, brown at the edges and greyish-white to greyish-brown in the centre, bearing sparse small black dots, which are its acervuli. Control method: in the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 25% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 25% carbendazim special wettable powder at 500 times dilution, alternating sprays once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 times in succession. ② Sunscald. In the intense heat of midsummer, when shading with a shade frame is inadequate, the tender shoots and young leaves of potted African jasmine are prone to sunscald, shown as many greyish-white or pale white scorch spots on the leaves. Control method: use a shade net for shading and adjust the position appropriately; in hot, dry seasons, appropriately increase the frequency and amount of watering, and if necessary spray water on the leaves; for plants that have already suffered scorch damage, promptly move them under a shade shed, cut off the scorched tender shoots and young leaves, and strengthen water and fertiliser management so the plants recover their health as soon as possible. 2. Insect pests. African jasmine occasionally suffers from leaf-eating pests, such as Atractomorpha sinensis, causing many holes or notches in the plant's leaves; promptly spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution to kill them.
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3. How to grow the peace lily (it suppresses waste gases exhaled by humans, such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent the nasal mucosa from drying out, greatly reducing the likelihood of illness) The peace lily is an "expert" at suppressing waste gases exhaled by humans such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent the nasal mucosa from drying out, greatly reducing the likelihood of illness. This beautiful indoor plant, native to the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, is undoubtedly a marvel of medicinal biology. Below is an illustrated guide. Light conditions: a neutral plant, suitable for planting in semi-shade. Care required: keep the potting soil moist and fertilise regularly; the leaves need frequent misting. Suitable temperature: the optimum growing temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. It can remove: ammonia, acetone, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde.
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4. How to grow Aglaonema commutatum (known for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the better it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.) This plant with greyish-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with lukewarm water, it can survive for a relatively long time. ★Suitable temperature: 16-21°C ★Can remove nicotine, formaldehyde
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5. How to grow maidenhair fern (it can absorb about 20 micrograms of formaldehyde per hour, so it is considered the most effective biological "purifier". People who deal with paint and coatings all day, or who have smokers around them, should place at least one pot of ferns in their workplace. In addition, it can also suppress xylene and toluene released from computer monitors and printers.) Maidenhair fern likes loose, well-drained, fertile calcareous sandy loam; when potting, the growing medium can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mould and river sand. During the growing period, apply liquid fertiliser once a week, and take care to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, you can frequently sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to raise the air humidity. Maidenhair fern likes bright, scattered light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow, or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; the optimum growing temperature is 13-22°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is 5°C. Among ferns, maidenhair fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are elegant and varied, graceful in form and compact in size, making it extremely suitable for small-pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because its black leaf stalks are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and their texture is very soft and lovely, like a young girl's soft tresses, it is also called "maiden's hair"; its pale green thin leaves paired with glossy black leaf stalks look especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, is highly adaptable and easy to cultivate, and is even more suitable for year-round indoor potted display. As a small potted shade-loving foliage plant, it is superior to asparagus fern in many respects. Small pots can be placed on a desk or coffee table; larger pots can be used to decorate the windowsill, hallway or living room of a shaded room, providing enjoyment for a relatively long time. Maidenhair fern leaves are also good cut-leaf material and dried-flower material.
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6. How to grow the umbrella tree (it brings fresh air to smoking households. The leaves can absorb nicotine and other harmful substances from smoke-filled air and, through photosynthesis, convert them into harmless substances of the plant's own. In addition, it can reduce formaldehyde concentration by about 9 milligrams per hour.) It likes semi-shade and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time in a bright, well-ventilated home. If it receives about 4 hours of direct light indoors each day, it can grow well. For varieties with yellow or white markings, if the light is too weak or too much nitrogen fertiliser is applied, the markings will become blurred, thus losing their original characteristics. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the winter minimum temperature should not be below 5°C, otherwise the leaves will drop. New leaves will appear in the spring of the following year. It grows well in an environment with high air humidity and ample soil moisture, but it has fairly strong adaptability to the dry climate of the north. Note that the potting soil must not lack water, otherwise it will cause a large number of leaves to drop. Under low winter temperatures, water should be controlled appropriately. During the growing season, apply liquid fertiliser once every 1 to 2 weeks. Repot once every spring; if using a plastic container, pay attention to drainage. The potting soil is made up of peat soil, leaf mould, perlite and a small amount of base fertiliser. Fine sandy soil can also be used for potting. Pruning does not require major cutting back; if all the lower leaves have dropped and it has become a bare stem, cut it back at the halfway point to encourage new shoots, and the cut branches can also be used for cuttings, becoming new plants after rooting. If you do not want the umbrella tree to grow too tall, you can pinch it once it reaches 30 cm, that is, remove the growing tip by pinching off the top buds, and after some time side branches will grow.
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7. How to grow spider plant (it can absorb 95% of the carbon monoxide and 85% of the formaldehyde in the air.) Growing medium: spider plant is highly adaptable to various soils and easy to cultivate. You can use fertile sandy loam, humus soil, peat soil, or fine sandy soil with a small amount of base fertiliser as potting soil. Propagation: usually by division; apart from winter when the temperature is too low and unsuitable for division, it can be done in any other season. You can also cut off small plantlets with roots from the flower stems and pot them up. Watering: spider plant likes a humid environment, and the potting soil should be kept moist often. However, the spider plant's fleshy roots can store a large amount of water, so it has fairly strong drought resistance and will not dry out and die even if not watered for several days. In winter, when the temperature is below 5°C, water less, and the potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Fertilising: during the growing season, apply liquid fertiliser once every two weeks. For variegated varieties, apply less nitrogen fertiliser, otherwise the white or yellow markings on the leaves will become less distinct. Stop fertilising when the ambient temperature is below 4°C. Light: spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment and can be grown year-round in a bright indoor spot. Spider plants grown outdoors can also grow well under strong direct sunlight in summer. However, spider plants grown indoors for long periods should avoid strong direct sunlight and need 50-70% of the sunlight blocked. Temperature: spider plant is heat-tolerant. The suitable temperature is above 15°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is above 4°C. Humidity: it likes a humid environment; to keep the spider plant fresh and green, you can frequently mist the leaves to clean them. Pruning: at ordinary times, cut off yellow leaves as needed. Each March you can repot once, cutting off old roots, rotten roots and excess fibrous roots. In early to mid-May, cut off some of the spider plant's old leaves, which will encourage more new leaves and small spider plantlets to sprout. Water culture: spider plant can be grown in water; take the potted spider plant out of the pot, wash the soil off with water, cut off old leaves and old roots, place it in a water-culture vessel and add clean water. Do not use too much water; just enough to reach the root crown is appropriate. To promote vigorous growth, add a few drops of nutrient solution (which you can make yourself) to the water. The vessel can be a wide-mouthed glass bottle, glass cup or other container. The water in the container can be changed every few days, or you can simply top it up with some water.
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8. How to grow aloe (one pot of aloe is equivalent to nine biological air purifiers) Keeping potted aloe at home not only beautifies the living space but also allows you to pick the freshest aloe leaves at any time for home health care. Some people say that growing a few pots of aloe at home is like having a resident "private doctor". This saying, though somewhat exaggerated, is not entirely without reason. Whether aloe is used as a medicine to treat illness or for beauty and skincare, only fresh aloe can achieve the best results. 1. Preparing the potting soil. There are many formulas for preparing potted aloe growing medium; a common formula uses leaf mould, garden soil and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2, and practice has shown that this growing medium is quite suitable. Replacing river sand with sawdust reduces the weight of the medium and increases aeration and water permeability, and can achieve good results. Sawdust from hard mixed wood is best, and it should be piled up and fermented before use. 2. Disinfecting the potting soil. For potting soil used for indoor aloe cultivation, it is best to disinfect it before use to kill any insect eggs and pathogens that may exist in the medium. The commonly used methods are soil burning disinfection, steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. (1) Soil burning disinfection: put the prepared mixed medium on a stove with an iron plate and heat and stir-fry it. Generally, at 80°C, 30 minutes is enough to kill harmful microorganisms and various insect eggs in the medium. (2) Steam disinfection: put the prepared medium in a container and steam it through; ordinary household coal stoves and gas stoves can both be used for heating and disinfection. Steam disinfection needs to be kept above 80°C, and steaming for 2 hours can achieve a thorough disinfection effect. (3) Chemical disinfection: commonly use 40% formalin; for each cubic metre of growing medium, evenly sprinkle 400-500 millilitres of the solution into the medium, seal and cover it flat with plastic film, leave it closed for 1 to 2 days, then open it and air-dry it for 2 to 3 days, and pot it up after the solution has evaporated. 3. Potting up and repotting. The process of planting a well-grown aloe in a flower pot is called potting up. Time for potting up: it should be done in spring and summer. An indoor temperature of 15-28°C is relatively suitable. Method of potting up: selecting seedlings before potting up is an important key. Strong aloe seedlings have short, thick leaves, a dark green colour, and more than 4 adventitious roots. When potting up, first place some broken tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage and aeration, then fill in some of the prepared medium, put the aloe into the pot, spread the roots out as much as possible, cover the roots with soil, then gently lift the seedling upward a little and press it down slightly so that the roots make close contact with the medium above, below and on all sides, then fill the potting soil to about 2 cm below the rim of the pot. Finally, slowly pour water through the pot, and potting up is complete. After potting up, do not water too much; generally, do not water until dry, and when dry, water thoroughly. Frequently misting the aloe leaves can speed up the aloe's return to green and rooting. Newly potted aloe should also not be exposed to direct sunlight; it can be kept in a semi-shaded spot. Repotting: household potted aloe generally needs repotting once every 1-2 years. Spring is also the best time for repotting. When repotting, you must master the correct technique for removing the plant from the pot. Turn the potted plant upside down, support the potting soil with your left hand, and with the palm of your right hand sharply tap the rim of the pot several times in succession, and the pot will separate naturally from the old potting soil. Then move the aloe together with its root ball into a larger new pot, add new potting soil around the sides, then press the potting soil firm with your hands and water thoroughly. After repotting, it still needs to be kept in a semi-shaded spot for a period, and only moved to a sunny spot after it has fully recovered. 4. Management and care. The management of household potted aloe mainly includes three aspects: fertilising, watering and winter warmth. Fertilising: during its growth, aloe needs large amounts of the elements carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium and iron, among which carbon, hydrogen and oxygen come from the air, while the other elements are absorbed from the potting medium. In addition, it needs elements such as boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, copper and chlorine; although the amounts needed are not large, they cannot be replaced by other elements. Scientific fertilising can supplement the nutrients. Watering: in winter, generally water once every 15-20 days, and if needed you can mist the leaves. Water as little as possible and keep the potting soil dry, which helps the plant overwinter safely; in spring, generally water once every 5-7 days. Do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly, so that the potting soil alternates between dry and moist; in summer, the temperature is relatively high and evaporation is great, so water once every 2-3 days, and in addition you can mist the aloe leaves morning and evening each day. Also be careful to reduce exposure to the scorching sun to lessen water loss; in autumn, the watering method for aloe is basically similar to spring, and the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet. The time for watering is generally best in the early morning and evening, when the water temperature is closer to the potting soil temperature, which can avoid a drastic change in potting soil temperature caused by watering that would affect root growth. Remember: "For potted aloe, better dry than wet." 5. Overwintering management. (1) Temperature requirements: apart from in the tropical regions of southern China and frost-free areas year-round, such as southern Fujian, the coastal areas of Guangdong and Hainan, where aloe can overwinter safely and naturally, all other areas must strengthen overwintering and frost protection management. 5°C is the minimum safe temperature line for aloe overwintering. Mastering the safe overwintering temperature for aloe is one of the key techniques for the success of household potted aloe. (2) Methods for raising and maintaining temperature: in areas where winter is not very cold or where there is indoor heating, moving potted aloe indoors will generally allow it to overwinter safely. When the temperature cannot be guaranteed to stay above 5°C, then some corresponding warmth measures must be taken. For example, dig a rectangular pit (commonly called a ground cellar), or make a simple insulation box yourself, and so on. (3) Controlling watering and increasing light: in winter, water as little as possible or not at all, keeping the potting soil dry. If the air is too dry, you can mist the leaves. In addition, let the potted aloe see as much sunlight as possible.
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9. How to grow the Swiss cheese plant (it absorbs carbon dioxide at night and improves air quality) (1) Soil and repotting. When the Swiss cheese plant has rooted from cuttings and is transplanted into a pot, you can use fertile pond mud or black mountain soil. Because it grows rapidly, it needs repotting once a year. The best time for repotting is between March and April. When repotting, remove some of the old soil and dead roots and switch to a pot one size larger. Place some hoof pieces, crushed bone and so on at the bottom of the pot as base fertiliser, and fill in a growing medium mixed from equal thirds of leaf mould, vegetable garden soil and sandy soil. (2) Pay attention to the growing environment. The Swiss cheese plant dislikes direct scorching sunlight and is not cold-tolerant. In midsummer it should be placed indoors or under a shade shed, and must not be placed on a balcony with overly strong sunlight, otherwise it easily causes leaf withering and affects its ornamental value. When the winter temperature drops to 6°C, it should be moved indoors for warmth. (3) Keep the potting soil moist. The Swiss cheese plant likes humidity and needs ample water during the growing period. For daily watering, once a day is fine; in summer, once each in the morning and evening; when the weather is dry, you need even more to mist the leaves and sprinkle water in the growing environment to keep the air and leaves fresh. In winter, water once every 3-4 days. Every 7-10 days, mist the leaves once with clean water close to room temperature, to keep the plant evergreen and fresh and enhance its ornamental value. (4) Fertilise appropriately. The Swiss cheese plant is a flowering plant that fairly likes fertiliser. From April to September, apply a dilute cake fertiliser solution once every 15 days; you can also use rotted human urine diluted with water and applied thinly; with sufficient fertiliser, the leaf colour will be pleasing. In addition, for newly planted and growing plants, set up a frame and tie them in time, and after the shape is set, pay attention to pruning the whole plant, striving for a beautiful form. Let me tell you a few more pest control methods, listen carefully! The main pests and diseases harming the Swiss cheese plant are scale insects and grey spot disease. (1) Scale insects. When the Swiss cheese plant is grown indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on the stems and leaves, ruining its ornamental value. When only a few occur, you can catch them by hand; when severe, spray 40% omethoate emulsion at 1000 times dilution to kill them. (2) Swiss cheese plant grey spot disease. It mostly starts from damaged spots at the leaf edges. It is more severe after low temperatures, smoke exposure and pest damage. After infection, the lesions are initially black spots, which after enlarging become elliptical or irregular. The edges are dark brown and the inside is greyish-brown. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove pests in time, and cut off some of the diseased leaves. ② When the disease occurs, spray 70% thiophanate at 1000 times dilution or 0.5 equal-strength Bordeaux mixture.
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10. How to grow ivy (the champion of formaldehyde absorption) Just water it a little when it dries out; master the principle of not watering until dry and watering thoroughly when you do, and you can grow it well. Ivy can also be grown in water; you can add a little nutrient solution and grow it in a vase, which is both hygienic and attractive. Try it right away!
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11. How to grow the rubber plant (an all-rounder at eliminating harmful substances) The rubber plant actually grows fairly quickly! ① Light. Apart from appropriate shading in summer (30-50%), it is best to give it ample light at other times. ② Temperature. The rubber plant likes high temperatures; the suitable temperature is between 20-32°C, and it must not be below 10°C. ③ Humidity. A high-humidity environment favours growth and will also produce aerial roots, so in addition to normal watering, mist it frequently; of course, the growing environment is best at 75-95% humidity. ④ Watering. It should not be too frequent; it is best to water thoroughly after the surface soil dries, and it should not be kept dry for long periods or watered only on the surface. ⑤ Fertilising. A compound fertiliser mainly based on nitrogen is fine; either hole application or watering with a fertiliser solution works, but fertilising must be done when the ambient temperature is between 18-30°C. ⑥ Pruning. Actually this step is only for plumping up the plant's shape or controlling growth; instead, it will affect its growth! ⑦ Pest and disease control. Under normal care, there are few pests and diseases; only when kept indoors in winter will red spider mites and scale insects cause harm, and you can spray specific pesticides for control, such as dicofol (red spider mites) and methidathion (scale insects).
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12. How to grow asparagus fern (an umbrella of protection that eliminates bacteria and viruses) Asparagus fern, also called cloud-leaf bamboo, is a perennial evergreen vine of the genus Asparagus in the lily family. Native to southern Africa. Ecological habits: asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and not drought-tolerant; it likes a warm, semi-shaded environment and dislikes frost. Asparagus fern has strict requirements for potting soil: it requires loose, fertile, well-drained, well-aerated soil, and the potting soil is best neutral. It can be made from leaf mould, sand and rotted fertiliser. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and also fears heat; the optimum growing temperature is between 15-25°C. It can neither withstand direct light nor stay in a shaded place for too long. Do not water too much; master the watering principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. Applying fertiliser once a month can meet its growth needs. One- to two-year-old asparagus ferns have the greatest ornamental value. Three-year-old asparagus ferns begin to put out vines, and a support should be set up for them to climb on. If you do not want to set up a support, you can also cut off the climbing branches right at the base. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant; the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
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Common questions about growing flowers at home:
1. Why do the tender leaves of asparagus fern turn scorched black at the tip once they reach a certain height, while side branches and leaves can still grow from the sides? The main reasons for the scorched tips of asparagus fern tender leaves are overly dry potting soil, insufficient fertiliser, or fertiliser burn. In addition, asparagus fern is originally a climbing plant, and when it grows tall it must have a support or string for it to cling to and climb up; otherwise, because the top shoot bends and droops, affecting the supply of water and nutrients, a similar situation will also occur. 2. What diseases is asparagus fern prone to? How should they be prevented and controlled? ① Asparagus fern small branches turn yellow but do not fall off, mainly caused by insufficient nutrients in the potting soil and malnutrition. Some cases are caused by the potting soil being hard and compact with poor aeration, reducing the vigour of the root system and thus affecting the plant's normal growth. Besides repotting in spring with a growing medium rich in organic matter, you should also frequently loosen the surface of the potting soil and pay attention to strengthening fertilising. ② Asparagus fern leaf tips withering and yellowing or dropping off is mainly caused by too little watering, the potting soil being on the dry side, or the relative humidity being too low. You should keep the potting soil moist often and frequently spray water on the plant; the water temperature is best the same as room temperature, and place the asparagus fern in a place with high air humidity. During the growing season, apply compound fertiliser appropriately to make the plant robust and increase its resistance. ③ The tips of asparagus fern branches turning dull yellow or yellow-green is caused by strong light exposure or overwatering. It should be moved to a shaded spot or to a window with curtains to avoid direct strong light, and at the same time be careful not to water too much. ④ Asparagus fern roots rotting with branch tips scorching yellow and dropping off is mainly caused by being hit by strong winds in the hot summer season, or by long-term standing water in the flower pot. Therefore, in summer, special care must be taken to guard against the onslaught of thunderstorms or typhoons. 3. Causes of yellowing leaves and branches in potted asparagus fern and methods of prevention and control? a) Light too strong. Asparagus fern likes semi-shade and dislikes strong light; in summer, if it is placed in direct sunlight, the branches and leaves will wither and yellow. Once this happens, move the pot to a cool place, and at the same time frequently mist the branches and leaves to increase relative humidity; most of those not seriously damaged can recover. b) Improper watering. Although asparagus fern likes humidity, it is very afraid of standing water in the pot; too much water easily rots the roots, while too little water easily dries the leaf tips. If root rot occurs, control watering and loosen the soil frequently. For those with dry leaf tips, water a small amount first, then gradually increase it, while misting the branches and leaves. c) Insufficient nutrients. Asparagus fern likes fertile soil; if the soil is not changed and fertiliser is not added for a long time, the nutrient supply falls short of demand and the branches and leaves will turn yellow. At this point, apply a dilute liquid fertiliser once a week, and water and loosen the soil in time. d) Improper fertilising. If the concentration of the top dressing is too strong or unfully rotted fertiliser is applied, it easily causes fertiliser burn, leading to dry, dropping leaves. Once fertiliser burn occurs, take the pot out, remove the fertiliser, then rinse the soil ball with clean water and replace it with fresh growing medium. e) Poor winter management. Asparagus fern likes warmth and should face the sun in winter; if it is kept for a long time in a place with insufficient light at this time, plus poor ventilation and cold, it easily causes the branches and leaves to wither and yellow. At this point, move it to a warm, sunny place, and appropriately control watering, and it can gradually recover to normal. f) Infection by pests and diseases. Once asparagus fern is infected by pests such as scale insects, it will also cause the branches and leaves to wither and yellow, and it should be controlled in time.
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13. How to grow broadleaf lady palm (it eliminates heavy metal pollution and carbon dioxide) Broadleaf lady palm, also called Guanyin bamboo, tendon-head bamboo, palm bamboo and dwarf lady palm, is an evergreen foliage plant of the genus Rhapis in the palm family. Broadleaf lady palm is a clumping shrub with erect stems, 1-3 m tall. The stems are slender as fingers, unbranched, with leaf nodes, wrapped in leaf sheaths with brown reticulate fibres. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, palmate, deeply cleft almost to the base, with 3-12 segments, 20-25 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; the leaf stalks are slender, about 8-20 cm. The spadix is axillary, with small, pale yellow flowers, very numerous, unisexual, dioecious. The flowering period is April-May. The berry is spherical, and the seed is spherical. Broadleaf lady palm is native to Guangdong, Yunnan and other places in China, and is also found in Japan. There are more than 20 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in Southeast Asia. It often grows profusely on hillsides and beside gullies in shaded, damp thickets; cultivated types are divided into large-leaf, medium-leaf and fine-leaf broadleaf lady palm, and there is also variegated broadleaf lady palm. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environment, fears scorching sun, and is slightly cold-tolerant, able to withstand low temperatures of around 0°C. Broadleaf lady palm can be propagated by seed and by division; home cultivation is mostly by division. For sowing, use loose, permeable soil as the medium, generally a mix of leaf mould and river sand. Before sowing, the seeds can be treated by soaking in warm water (soak in 30-35°C warm water for two days), and sown when the seeds begin to sprout. Because germination is generally uneven, the soil cover after sowing should be somewhat deeper. Generally, they sprout 1-2 months after sowing, with a germination rate of about 80%. When the seedling cotyledons reach 8-10 cm long, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that when transplanting, 3-5 plants must be planted per clump to aid survival and growth. Division propagation is generally carried out in spring in combination with repotting; use a sharp knife to divide the original clump with many suckers into several clumps, cutting so as to damage the roots as little as possible and not harm the buds, so that each clump contains more than 8-10 plants, otherwise growth is slow and the ornamental effect poor. After dividing and potting up, place in a semi-shaded spot, keep it moist, and frequently mist the leaves to prevent them from withering and yellowing. After new branches sprout, move it to a sunny spot for care, then carry out normal management. For potted broadleaf lady palm, a medium mixed from equal parts leaf mould, garden soil and river sand can be used, and an appropriate amount of base fertiliser can be added at planting. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertiliser 1-2 times a month; the potting soil should be kept moist, better wet than dry, but there must be no standing water, otherwise the roots easily rot. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. During the growing season, shade is needed, especially in summer when direct scorching sunlight must be avoided, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly and stays short; generally, a shading level of about 50% is appropriate. Broadleaf lady palm requires a well-ventilated environment for growth; if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily occur. If only a few occur, scrape them off by hand in time and control them with 800 times dilution omethoate solution, while also paying attention to ventilation and pruning dead branches and fallen leaves in time. Broadleaf lady palm has a compact, elegant form, upright clumps, delicate leaf shapes and a deep green, glossy leaf colour; it has both a tropical charm and the elegance of bamboo, and is an important indoor foliage plant. It is very shade-tolerant and is suitable both as a small to medium potted plant for general household indoor display and as a large potted plant for indoor decoration of large buildings; it is one of the large indoor foliage plants. In a bright room it can be enjoyed for a long time, and in a darker room it can be enjoyed continuously for 3-4 weeks. 2. Water culture method for broadleaf lady palm. Genus Rhapis in the palm family, also called Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan and other places. Characteristics: evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, palm-like. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmate with deep clefts, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious. Habits: likes a warm, shady, damp and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C; it can withstand short periods of low temperatures of around 0°C. Propagation: generally by division in combination with repotting; choose a large, densely growing plant, first take it out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps, cutting so as to cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants in a certain shape, then pot them up again, water thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded, humid spot, and frequently mist the leaves, and after growth resumes, normal care can begin. Sowing: after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in the pot as soon as they are collected, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout the following spring. Key points for water culture care: 1: It is shade-tolerant, but when the light is too weak the leaves easily turn yellow, and when ventilation is poor parasites breed. 2: During the growing period, frequently spray water on the leaves. How to obtain water culture material: It is best to wash the roots of a potted plant. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not prone to rotting after water culture, but it is slow to sprout new roots, and the more so, the longer it takes, needing a month and a half.
Precautions
Pay attention to indoor temperature!
Plant cultivation