Is Redback Osmanthus Poisonous? Detailed Explanation of Grafting Propagation Methods

 Redback Osmanthus, as the name suggests, has red undersides to its leaves and is a plant with high ornamental value, but how many people really understand it? Is this plant poisonous, and a whole series of other questions - if we don't know, we need to find out.

Is Redback Osmanthus poisonous?

1. Redback Osmanthus is poisonous

Redback Osmanthus is a fairly common poisonous plant; the entire plant is toxic, and the milky sap is particularly toxic. It belongs to the category of cancer-promoting plants, secreting carcinogenic substances that can induce nasopharyngeal cancer and esophageal cancer. Even the soil in which such plants have been grown contains activating components of carcinogens. It is best not to keep it indoors for long periods, otherwise people may develop cancer from long-term inhalation of flower dust and particulate matter.

2. Ornamental value of Redback Osmanthus

Redback Osmanthus, as the name suggests, has bright red undersides to its leaves and is an excellent foliage plant. The upper surface of its leaves is emerald green and very glossy, and the whole plant looks like a beautiful interplay of red and green, very lovely and attractive. Placed indoors as a potted plant, it looks elegant and dignified, greatly beautifying the environment and giving people a pleasant feeling. Planted in a courtyard or park, its unique colour forms a brilliant landscape that is very eye-catching and gives people aesthetic enjoyment.

3. Medicinal value of Redback Osmanthus

The entire plant of Redback Osmanthus can be used medicinally, with functions of dispelling wind-dampness, unblocking meridians and invigorating collaterals, promoting blood circulation and relieving pain. It has a certain effect on treating measles, tonsillitis, angina pectoris, mumps, lumbar muscle strain, bruises and injuries, etc. It can be decocted into soup for internal use, or an appropriate amount of the fresh plant can be pounded and used externally.

 Grafting Propagation Method for Redback Osmanthus

1. Rootstock for grafting Redback Osmanthus

The rootstock generally used is privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet, Chinese privet, water privet, white privet and fringetree (Chionanthus), etc. For large-scale propagation, small-leaf privet is mostly used, as its survival rate is relatively high, and after grafting the seedlings grow very quickly, but their lifespan is shorter. Using water privet as rootstock results in slower growth but a very long lifespan. When using fringetree as rootstock, it is best to carry out approach grafting during the growing season of Redback Osmanthus, and not to choose rainy days.

2. Grafting time for Redback Osmanthus

The most suitable grafting time for Redback Osmanthus is before bud break in spring.

3. Grafting method for Redback Osmanthus

Cut the rootstock off 5 cm above the ground. Select a robust 1-2 year old branch of Redback Osmanthus, cut a 10-12 cm length, and whittle the base into a cut surface of about 2 cm, and on the opposite side, whittle a small slant. Then on one side of the rootstock at about one third of the way across, cut down vertically to a depth of 2-3 cm. Then the scion can be inserted into the cut, tied tightly with a plastic bag, covered with soil, and cultivated and managed.

4. Approach grafting method for potted Redback Osmanthus

Potted Redback Osmanthus generally uses approach grafting. When selecting the rootstock and scion, the thickness of the branches should be similar. Choose a suitable spot and cut a spindle-shaped incision of about 32 cm on the scion, deep enough to reach the xylem; the rootstock should be treated the same way, with the height and size of the incision matching that of the scion. Then press the two incisions together, tie them up with a plastic bag and fasten tightly. After the wounds heal, cut off the rootstock above and the scion below the junction, and that is done.

What flowers are suitable for growing in March

March coincides with Awakening of Insects and Spring Equinox. This month's temperature reaches a maximum of 27.6°C, a minimum of -4 to -5°C, and an average of 6.4°C. This month is right in the transition between cold and warm.

    (1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

    If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment.

    Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Magnolia soulangeana, Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Midget crabapple (Malus micromalus), Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum (Viburnum opulus 'Roseum'), persimmon, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), plum blossom, Chinese rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud (Cercis chinensis), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Canary Island date palm, etc.

    If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, you should choose flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, aucuba, French holly, privet, leatherleaf mahonia, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese fatsia, Sabina chinensis, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc.

    Regardless of the light and moisture conditions in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees you should pay attention to the following points:

    (1) The minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage;

    (2) They should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid failure to adapt;

    (3) They should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious names;

    (4) The number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more;

    (5) The height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to block the light of upstairs residents and affect neighbourly relations;

    (6) Avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances;

    (7) Choose large-sized plants that grow slowly but are basically formed, so as to achieve greening and beautification effects early; for example, ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, etc. should be no less than 2 m in height;

    (8) Leave some vacant ground for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

    There are many species of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving ones include: Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, salvia, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Gomphrena, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupin, daisy, calendula, corn poppy, rain lily, dahlia, etc.

    More shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover species include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), big-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, purple-backed Rohdea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus calamus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

    There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. Under better conditions, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring more meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Milan (Aglaia odorata), camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), king coconut, white orchid (Michelia alba), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also called dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, cymbidium, anthurium, Jianlan orchid, phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, hibiscus, clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Alocasia 'Polly', Syngonium, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc.

    For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some species with more extensive management requirements, such as nandina, sago palm, bamboo palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Japanese quince, four-season osmanthus, cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, monstera, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', Schefflera, Pilea, Redback Osmanthus, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, banyan, etc.

    (2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing

    Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, and Chinese tulip tree; the seeds of the latter five all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand stratification to promote germination include: sago palm, ginkgo, bamboo-leaf podocarp, Buddhist pine, Chinese fan palm, purple magnolia, Michelia species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, salvia, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock flower, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc.; some cold-intolerant species should be sown under plastic covers.

    2. Cuttings

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Portulacaria afra, jade plant, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Japanese quince, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Japanese fatsia, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, (Sabina), Daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in a shed or indoors.

    3. Grafting

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1-2 year old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, Nishiki pine, etc.; using 1-2 year old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1 year old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, selecting superior-variety wintersweet scions for cut-grafting and bagging for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock to graft and propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, which is best done in a greenhouse. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, Sabina, upright cypress, Michelia, Japanese quince, snowball viburnum, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese quince, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and the coldest period of the year after January. By the end of February, the weather gradually warms and transitions toward spring, and a considerable number of flowers begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are mainly in the following aspects: first, continuing to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, doing a good job of post-flowering pruning and repotting for some woody flowers; third, doing the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic sheds in February include: calendula, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, salvia, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open at the end of February include: seeds of magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, maple species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have been sand-stratified and have cracked and shown white, as well as camphor tree, Chinese tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer wintersweet, wisteria, etc. need to be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or sheds in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or cuttings with plastic film mulch for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (cut one-year-old branches after flowering for varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, rose of Sharon, Hypericum (plum), spiraea, leatherleaf mahonia, boxwood species, oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and trumpet creeper can also be cut at this time. In early February, you can also continue to cut and store branches of Weigela, Deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, Redback Osmanthus, salvia, geranium, jasmine, pearl orchid, Buddha's hand, jade tree, jade leaf, Echeveria, jade plant, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Pilea, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese five-needle pine, Nishiki pine, white-bark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock for cut-grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti', adopting bagging and air inflation for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose variety 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, cut-graft or split-graft superior rose scions, and adopt the measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Japanese quince, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, Buddhist pine, Sabina, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, hydrangea, spiraea, snowflake, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, rain lily, dwarf lilyturf, big-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Jianlan orchid, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant species, kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, monstera, Syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, Hypericum, leatherleaf mahonia, hydrangea, Japanese quince, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, snowflake, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, pearl orchid, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo species, etc.

    1. Harvesting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, processed and sand-stratified to promote germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking the various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become mouldy; if mould occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, the soil in southern regions does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high. Herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edged holly, daisy, calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chinese quince, trumpet creeper, linden, Chinese tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, Triarrhena, Deutzia, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw scholar tree, plum-leaved cherry, elm-leaved spiraea, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, purple Machilus, etc. can be delayed until the end of February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, Oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc. should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (shed) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a great deal of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so you should continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If greenhouses or sheds have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the shed or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the shed, continue to hang them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, you must not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protective facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange, especially by the end of February, when you can extend the ventilation and air exchange time during the period of highest daily temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers grown in small quantities at home, such as Milan (Aglaia odorata), phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, Syngonium, iron-cross begonia, croton, pink sage, etc., in particularly cold weather you can put plastic bags over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as "bathroom heaters" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to the relatively low temperature, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry interiors, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green colour and lustre and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds shrivel and drop. For example, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all drop buds and fruit, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or shed air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly coloured. In particular, for tree peonies, plum blossoms, Japanese quinces and hall crabapples placed in sheds for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered cymbidiums purchased back after being cultivated in greenhouses or sheds, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or shed differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrivel and dry out. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese five-needle pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of sustained temperature rise, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done promptly, especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, and appropriate leaf spraying should also be given around noon on fine days to prevent leaves from shrinking and dropping afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilising. In February, you can continue to bury base fertiliser for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertiliser types include: cake fertiliser, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to supply the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in 10°C to 15°C greenhouses (sheds), such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold-strobilus flower, Daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, ornamental pineapple, Tillandsia, Guzmania, clivia, etc., you can continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate as a top dressing to favour plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in sheds, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilisation should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweets, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to encourage many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, Chinese winged spindle, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, Serissa, juniper, (Juniperus rigida), etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favourable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant is about to end winter dormancy, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Milan (Aglaia odorata), white orchid, jasmine, pearl orchid, two-coloured jasmine, Redback Osmanthus, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Jianlan orchid, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, sedum, jade tree, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, gold-strobilus flower, coral flower, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese quince, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and grey mould appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For grey mould appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in sheds, 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in sheds, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilisers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the shed is high, making it difficult for the plant leaves to absorb sprayed fertiliser; on the contrary, it easily breeds mould on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mould appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, the sooty mould will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as (Phenacaspis), white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in sheds, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertiliser. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, bean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season for watering potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertiliser, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertiliser, in granular powder form, can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Jianlan orchid, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered cymbidium, phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertiliser, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, as it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, you can continue to turn over garden plots that have not yet been ploughed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can then be drawn and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, juniper, Oriental arborvitae, real juniper, ginkgo, Serissa, shore juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana, small money plum, wintersweet, Japanese quince, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Magnolia soulangeana, Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Midget crabapple (Malus micromalus), Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum (Viburnum opulus 'Roseum'), persimmon, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), plum blossom, Chinese rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud (Cercis chinensis), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, you should choose flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, aucuba, French holly, privet, leatherleaf mahonia, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese fatsia, Sabina chinensis, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light and moisture conditions in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees you should pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid failure to adapt; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to block the light of upstairs residents and affect neighbourly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose large-sized plants that grow slowly but are basically formed, so as to achieve greening and beautification effects early; for example, ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, etc. should be no less than 2 m in height; eighth, leave some vacant ground for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many species of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving ones include: Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, salvia, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Gomphrena, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupin, daisy, calendula, corn poppy, rain lily, dahlia, etc. More shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover species include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), big-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, purple-backed Rohdea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus calamus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. Under better conditions, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring more meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Milan (Aglaia odorata), camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), king coconut, white orchid (Michelia alba), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also called dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, cymbidium, anthurium, Jianlan orchid, phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, hibiscus, clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Alocasia 'Polly', Syngonium, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some species with more extensive management requirements, such as nandina, sago palm, bamboo palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Japanese quince, four-season osmanthus, cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, monstera, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', Schefflera, Pilea, Redback Osmanthus, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, and Chinese tulip tree; the seeds of the latter five all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand stratification to promote germination include: sago palm, ginkgo, bamboo-leaf podocarp, Buddhist pine, Chinese fan palm, purple magnolia, Michelia species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, salvia, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock flower, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc.; some cold-intolerant species should be sown under plastic covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Portulacaria afra, jade plant, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Japanese quince, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Japanese fatsia, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Sabina, Daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in a shed or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1-2 year old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, Nishiki pine, etc.; using 1-2 year old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1 year old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, selecting superior-variety wintersweet scions for cut-grafting and bagging for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock to graft and propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, which is best done in a greenhouse. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, Sabina, upright cypress, Michelia, Japanese quince, snowball viburnum, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese quince, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chinese tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as far as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for transplanting of wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, rose of Sharon, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting it does not matter, but appropriate pruning should still be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, a sufficient soil ball should be carried when transplanting; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilising. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertiliser in winter, before they have sprouted, dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of their root system to a depth of about 15 to 20 cm, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertiliser, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, etc., or multi-element compound fertiliser, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossoms, wintersweets, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and water sprout flowering branches, for one-year-old branches you can cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favouring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering you can prune off branches that spoil the plant's shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant's shape and improve the plant's ventilation and light transmission.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already become infected with pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Chinese rose, Chinese quince, Japanese quince, grape, hall crabapple, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, calendula, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edged lilyturf, rain lily, Zephyranthes, iris, Reineckea carnea, Liriope, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertiliser as a top dressing, such as thoroughly composted odourless cake fertiliser water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertiliser solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted plants placed outdoors, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Taiwan crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), nandina (Nandina domestica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), and Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile culture soil rich in organic matter to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor plants such as white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), camellia (Camellia japonica), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), Ardisia crenata, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), bergamot (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), clivia (Clivia miniata), Syngonium podophyllum, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), and Calathea (Maranta arundinacea), repotting should be done before they are moved outdoors.

(2) Hardening off. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still kept indoors in March, so both cold protection and ventilation must be emphasized. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move southward, insulation and cold protection must continue in early and mid-March. In late March, doors and windows of rooms can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that plants such as white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), and Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) can gradually be hardened off and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects the year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, insulation and cold protection must continue this month, and vigilance must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor plants such as hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), white orchid (Michelia alba), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), fish-tail palm (Caryota mitis), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), and begonias (Begonia spp.), combine repotting with necessary pruning, including removing diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak thin branches, and some yellowed leaves. For plants mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), and red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), wiring and pruning can also be done in March before sprouting to further improve their shapes. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), and Forsythia (Forsythia suspensa), heavy renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony cultivation

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a good small environment for growing flowers. More often, they grow some strongly resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony cultivation include one group of relatively drought-tolerant plants. Their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their bodies are fleshy and thick with abundant sap, or their leaves are small and transformed into needle-like forms with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, making them very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus monstrosus, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus terscheckii, Astrophytum asterias, Aporocactus flagelliformis, and Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria afra, jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Echeveria (Echeveria elegans), Lithops (Lithops spp.), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybridum), leaf cactus (Pereskia aculeata), and kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). There are also wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum kochii), Dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia picta), and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are quite suitable for balcony cultivation. Another group consists of flower species relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, able to accept full sunlight and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony pot cultivation, especially on high-floor balconies, such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Yucca (Yucca spp.), littleleaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), agave (Agave americana), amaryllis (Hippeastrum rutilum), Sageretia thea, Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Adina rubella, black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex purpurea), Vitex negundo, Euonymus pendulus, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), and moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora). In addition, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), bergamot (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), camellia (Camellia japonica), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), and Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) can also be used as balcony pot plants on slightly lower levels, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony pot cultivation, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), marigold (Tagetes erecta), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), and petunia (Petunia hybrida), can be sown in shallow pots for seedling raising at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) or clivia (Clivia miniata) seeds are collected, wash them clean and sow them indoors first. When the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybridum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Echeveria (Echeveria elegans), Portulacaria afra, Euphorbia tirucalli, and Crassula lycopodioides can be cuttings-propagated indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, then moved to the balcony after warm spring weather returns.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate indoors on a windowsill with relatively good light by cuttings: gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), dwarf pomegranate (Punica granatum var. nana), Taiwan crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), nandina (Nandina domestica), Daphne odora, and Ardisia crenata, but the pot mouth must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), bagging for moisture retention must be done, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as insulation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowering trees and shrubs placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted plants, which not only affects the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into sheds for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex purpurea), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, and littleleaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be done. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and spray water appropriately. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia (Forsythia suspensa), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), and camellia (Camellia japonica), necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote a good plant shape. Conduct a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them. For dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar for anti-decay treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can be built on the balcony, with a hard board on top (prefabricated reinforced concrete). Using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, in summer place some flowers that prefer humid air on it, such as orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum, Ardisia crenata, and nandina (Nandina domestica). The stored water is ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved outdoors, you can also set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose support points for installing shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved outdoors and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare culture soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics in April: As the strength of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid airflows from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise markedly. After Qingming, although there are occasional effects of southward cold air, they can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huaihe River. Only north of the Huaihe River and Yellow River are there still dangers of snow and frost. After Guyu, areas south of the Jianghuai region have ended late frost, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases markedly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in the Huaibei region, potted flowers can only be moved outdoors after late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower care includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), Amaranthus tricolor, moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), morning glory (Ipomoea nil), Ipomoea quamoclit, redstar ipomoea (Ipomoea coccinea), tobacco flower (Nicotiana tabacum), petunia (Petunia hybrida), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), coreopsis (Coreopsis grandiflora), snake's eye chrysanthemum (Coreopsis tinctoria), marigold (Tagetes erecta), red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Chinese primrose (Primula sinensis), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Kochia scoparia, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), painted euphorbia (Euphorbia heterophylla), basil (Ocimum basilicum), asparagus (Asparagus cochinchinensis), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Adenophora stricta, and sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica). Magnoliaceae flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand storage include: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia aromatica), Baohua magnolia (Magnolia zenii), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Tianmu magnolia (Magnolia amoena), Wudang magnolia (Magnolia sprengeri), officinal magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), (Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba), Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Michelia (Michelia), Manglietia (Manglietia fordiana), red flower manglietia (Manglietia insignis), Ruyuan manglietia (Manglietia ruyuanensis), big-fruited manglietia (Manglietia grandis), yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), banana shrub (Michelia figo), many-flowered Michelia (Michelia floribunda), Lechang Michelia (Michelia chapensis), Yunshan white orchid (Michelia martini), golden-leaved Michelia (Michelia foveolata), Emei Michelia (Michelia wilsonii), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), hybrid tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera x chinense), and North American tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera). Other landscaping flowering trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan tanoak (Quercus stewardii), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), Ormosia henryi, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer wintersweet (Calycanthus chinensis), white plum (Exochorda racemosa), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, and windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei).

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), primrose (Primula malacoides), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), and naranjilla (Solanum mammosum). Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its fruits, which have turned black, whitish, and soft, picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be stored in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have emerged, remove the covering grass in time and set up a shade shed. For cultivating naranjilla, peel the golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow them in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit appreciation or planted in the ground for cultivation as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach (Prunus persica 'Dianzui'), red-flowered bristly locust (Robinia hispida), and cactus (Echinopsis) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns (Pteridophyta spp.), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), agave (Agave americana), Dieffenbachia 'Silver King', Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia picta), Calathea (Maranta arundinacea), aloe (Aloe vera), peperomia (Peperomia spp.), Monstera deliciosa, and Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Flowers that can be divided in April include: daylily (Hemerocallis fulva), five-colored plum (Lantana camara), Hosta plantaginea, Vallota (Vallota speciosa), Chrysanthemum morifolium, Canna indica, Coreopsis, Gerbera, Phlox drummondii, Salvia, and Clematis. Orchids that can be divided include: Cymbidium, orchid, etc.

    4. Cuttings

For most easily rooted flowering trees and shrubs, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cutting propagation can be carried out in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus spp.), mahonia (Mahonia spp.), nandina (Nandina domestica), cypress (Cupressaceae spp.), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), spiraea (Spiraea spp.), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), snowflake spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), and Taiwan crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa).

II. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if too much old soil is not removed and roots are not excessively reduced during repotting, repotting can be done in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), repotting must absolutely not be done after leaf expansion.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet expanded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with root balls in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Michelia (Michelia spp.), and white orchid (Michelia alba), part of the branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before leaf expansion, such as white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia tuan), crabapple (Malus spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and apricot (Prunus armeniaca). Usually the soil ball diameter for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the trunk diameter of the transplanted plant. In this way, without damaging the soil ball, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), serissa (Serissa japonica), Adina rubella, true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Euonymus pendulus, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), dwarf Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana'), Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis). Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus cuneata), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), fragrant olive (Osmanthus fragrans), golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), and tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding, and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, timely bud removal. When winter buds move and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure that newly grown needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilizing

For potted camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia (Forsythia suspensa), Daphne odora, kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, and Phaius tankervilleae, because flowering or fruiting consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply topdressing mainly of nitrogen fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth. For potted flower species about to bloom, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and white orchid (Michelia alba), topdressing should likewise be given, and the type can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Michelia (Michelia spp.), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and crabapple (Malus spp.) after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet the needs of vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and care

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and rotten stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-appreciation potted plants

For potted fruit-appreciation flowering trees that bloom in April, such as Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Aucuba japonica, and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, they must be sprayed with water or mist 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics in May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises markedly. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown as collected in May mainly include: Chinese primrose (Primula sinensis), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica). When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor overly dry; second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing sudden changes between dry and wet that cause seeds to "return to bud"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and set up shade in time to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans), mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, washed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and reveal the tip of the radicle should they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), begonias (Begonia spp.), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), coral tree (Erythrina variegata), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), (Jasminum multiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), deutzia (Deutzia scabra), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), kerria (Kerria japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), butterfly bush (Buddleja lindleyana), trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), Epipremnum pinnatum, orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybridum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), Magnolia biondii, Taiwan crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), five-colored plum (Lantana camara), red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia picta), Cordyline terminalis, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), oleander (Nerium oleander), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), mahonia (Mahonia spp.), and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings or cuttings as rootstock to graft and propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and banana shrub (Michelia figo); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'); use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old (Rhododendron pulchrum) cuttings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea (Rhododendron hybridum); use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) cultivars; use yellow wormwood (Artemisia annua) as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum cultivars; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet cultivars, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus (Echinopsis) and three-ribbed arrow (Hylocereus undatus) can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata).

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Western azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'). Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans), and trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora).

II. Potting and transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, lively, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), Kochia scoparia, marigold (Tagetes erecta), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), asparagus (Asparagus cochinchinensis), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), and begonias (Begonia spp.).

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and expand leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted with root balls and established in early May, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and silk tree (Albizia julibrissin).

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually increase their water demand. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), mountain azalea (Rhododendron mucronulatum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Daphne odora, clivia (Clivia miniata), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), crabapple (Malus spp.), and red-flowered oil tea (Camellia chekiangoleosa). Foliage plants include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), Monstera deliciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns (Pteridophyta spp.), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red (green) gem (Fittonia verschaffeltii), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea (Maranta arundinacea), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), and schefflera (Schefflera octophylla). Fruit-appreciation plants include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bergamot (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), nandina (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata.

    2. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For white orchid (Michelia alba) that has recently been moved outdoors, special attention must be paid when pruning back because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water, dries out, and extends downward. For this reason, consider making the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), after-flowering pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For potted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), when removing buds, also pay attention to the location. Generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Calathea (Maranta arundinacea), Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem (Fittonia verschaffeltii), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Dieffenbachia 'Camille', fan palm (Livistona chinensis), Syngonium podophyllum, orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), camellia (Camellia japonica), and camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua). For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), and white orchid (Michelia alba). Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Adina rubella, Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), serissa (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and soft pine require sufficient light; while Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), and five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilizing

For camellia (Camellia japonica), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Daphne odora, clivia (Clivia miniata), orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), and crabapple (Malus spp.), after flowering remove the remaining flowers and rotten stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth and lay a foundation for producing flower buds again. For mainly foliage species such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem (Fittonia verschaffeltii), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and ferns (Pteridophyta spp.), apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii'), colorful bromeliad (Bromeliaceae spp.), golden-heart Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana'), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), white butterfly arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly'), and Dieffenbachia 'Camille', apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution as foliar topdressing, which can make the leaf color more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa), pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), golden bean (Fortunella hindsii), bergamot (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), and rue (Ruta graveolens), such as citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), littleleaf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides var. radicans), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), serissa (Serissa japonica), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Adina rubella, fragrant olive (Osmanthus fragrans), and ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba). It is worth noting that when shaping, you must be careful and cautious, and try not to injure the bark and core of branches and trunks; otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Jianghuai basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of comparable strength meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, and for most bonsai, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light that disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula malacoides), lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox). For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, remove the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds crack and show white, and at this time sow them in furrows. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm, and straw is added to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and set up shade in time.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is high, and the cambium in branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major groups of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cutting in summer. One group consists of species that are difficult to root or slow to root from hardwood cuttings, such as sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex purpurea), lilac (Syringa oblata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Taiwan crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), Euphorbia tirucalli, coral tree (Erythrina variegata), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum). The other group consists of relatively easy-to-root species, such as boxwood (Buxus spp.), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Forsythia (Forsythia suspensa), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, serissa (Serissa japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Caragana sinica, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), five-colored plum (Lantana camara), kerria (Kerria japonica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), bergamot (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), nandina (Nandina domestica), trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Cordyline terminalis, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, golden willow (Salix alba var. vitellina), dragon-claw willow (Salix babylonica var. tortuosa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), Ardisia crenata, paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), deutzia (Deutzia scabra), mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Weigela florida, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Aucuba spp., schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), mahonia (Mahonia spp.), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), snowflake spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon (Ipomoea cairica), ivy (Hedera helix), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Torenia fournieri, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), begonias (Begonia spp.), pansy (Viola tricolor), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia (Camellia japonica) and sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans) as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the tender branches of sweet olive and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly dried, and then inserted into the seedling bed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant and row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet cultivars; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid (Michelia alba), banana shrub (Michelia figo), etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) cultivars; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot (Prunus armeniaca), peach (Prunus persica), and plum (Prunus salicina) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach (Prunus persica 'Dianzui'), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), red-leaf peach (Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea'), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and flowering almond (Prunus triloba); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and red maple (Acer palmatum 'Sanguineum'). Branch grafting: use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered oil tea (Camellia chekiangoleosa), or single-petaled seedling camellia (Camellia japonica) as rootstock for branch grafting camellia (Camellia japonica) and camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua); use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among (Rhododendron pulchrum) as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum) or Western azalea (Rhododendron hybridum).

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea (Rhododendron simsii), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), Weigela florida, oleander (Nerium oleander), sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), lilac (Syringa oblata), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), and white orchid (Michelia alba).

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple-backed spiderwort (Tradescantia spathacea), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Haworthia (Haworthia fasciata), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Acorus calamus, and golden-edge dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus 'Variegatus').

II. Seed collection and transplanting/establishing

    1. Seed collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Chinese pink (Dianthus chinensis), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dwarf catchfly (Silene gallica), tall catchfly (Silene armeria), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva sinensis), primrose (Primula malacoides), calceolaria (Calceolaria herbeohybrida), and amaryllis (Hippeastrum rutilum) (sow as collected).

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting the germination rate. Peach (Prunus persica) and apricot (Prunus armeniaca) should be sown as collected, or their seeds can be stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans) seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo; when they germinate, choose a nursery site and sow.

    2. Transplanting, establishing, and potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishing, or potting, including: evening primrose (Oenothera biennis), spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), primrose (Primula malacoides), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), red tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum), petunia (Petunia hybrida), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), and red-green grass (Alternanthera bettzickiana).

In summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia spp.), Hypericum monogynum, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-edge privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), and boxwood (Buxus spp.), under special circumstances, transplanting with a ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know," but after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    In June, watering potted flowers should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under general conditions, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, keeping irrigation water and potting soil temperature basically consistent; if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying; when there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pots, also spray the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity. If there are continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness and wetness of the potting soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red woodsorrel (Oxalis articulata), geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), and begonias (Begonia spp.), when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, only keeping the potting soil moist. Deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), Lycoris (Lycoris spp.), ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), and Dutch peony (Paeonia lactiflora), under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil. Watering must be stopped for them, move them to a cool place, and keep the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilizing

For vigorously growing species such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea (Maranta arundinacea), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem (Fittonia verschaffeltii), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Green Queen', rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Anthurium andraeanum, red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), money tree (Pachira aquatica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Daphne odora, azalea (Rhododendron simsii), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', five-colored plum (Lantana camara), clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for fleshy flower species such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), Haworthia (Haworthia fasciata), Senecio (Senecio spp.), squirrel tail (Sedum morganianum), Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia (Stapelia gigantea), and sedums (Sedum spp.), when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Adina rubella, Sabina chinensis, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex purpurea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), (Spiraea thunbergii), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), and firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), promptly remove spent flowers and rotten stems, and appropriately cut back the branches that have flowered, to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid (Michelia alba), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), camellia (Camellia japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and crabapple (Malus spp.), in order to promote a good plant shape, more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds on overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of terminal and side shoots and promote side bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage from scorching sunlight. Such as hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns (Pteridophyta spp.), Philodendron (Philodendron spp.), Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Peperomia (Peperomia spp.), Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem (Fittonia verschaffeltii), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Red Queen', fan palm (Livistona chinensis), Daphne odora, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), serissa (Serissa japonica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Sabina chinensis, peach (Prunus persica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Sageretia thea, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex purpurea), Adina rubella, Japanese tanoak (Quercus acutissima), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), mahonia (Mahonia spp.), and grape (Vitis vinifera). Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), nandina (Nandina domestica), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex var. riviereorum), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), and Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi) can be appropriately shaded.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), and crabapple (Malus spp.) are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid (Michelia alba), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) are prone to aphid damage. Spray appropriate pesticides early to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection. Spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for control.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection, so fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for prevention and control.

(5) For kumquat, lemon, calamondin, bergamot and the like, the tender leaves are easily eaten by the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly; they can be killed by spraying contact insecticides, stomach poisons and other pesticides.

IV. Bonsai shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in early spring or grown in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), winter jasmine, Elaeagnus pungens, Huashan pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, Japanese black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, shimpaku juniper, ginkgo, snowbell (Spiraea thunbergii), firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow bending; never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Growing Manual (July)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. The dog days begin on July 16 and end on August 15, and most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and 28°C in areas south of the Jianghuai; only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower-care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Flower species that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Chinese primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, ripe fruits of Japanese apricot, wild peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc. can also be collected; after washing off the flesh, sow them in furrows immediately, or store the cleaned stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, which will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria indica, begonias, coleus, Pilea cadierei, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, pepperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pothos, etc.
    Woody flowering species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Excoecaria bicolor, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum patulum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, hydrangea, weigela, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Spiraea thunbergii, daphne, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Oyama magnolia, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), firethorn, Cordyline, Chinese hibiscus, serissa, Michelia figo, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum sargentii, boxwood species, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron species, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some flowering shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), etc. To propagate flowering shrubs by water cuttings, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick and perforate it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water for cuttings clean, and you can put in a few pieces of charcoal for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach or wild peach can be used as rootstock to bud-graft ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot, flowering almond, red-leaf plum, Meiren plum, etc.; using cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose and 'Shi Zimei' as rootstock, bud-graft varieties of Chinese rose, cut-flower rose and rugosa rose; using potted purple magnolia or white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, graft to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc.; using potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, graft to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; also using 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, adopt the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days you can judge whether it has survived; using 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the Mao azaleas as rootstock, cleft-graft or side-graft to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; using cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; using current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Hall crabapple or crabapple as rootstock, carry out "T"-shaped budding to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; using Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-graft to propagate red maple, feather maple and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, weigela, broom (Caragana), osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, Rhoeo discolor, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake-eyed chrysanthemum (Coreopsis), sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Mesembryanthemum, etc.
    Flowering shrub seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, Japanese apricot, wild peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc.
    2. Transplanting and potting
    July is the main period for potting the flower species to be displayed during National Day. The flower species transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings; after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon (Longkou flower), marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, dragon juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames built in time, and the frequency of water spraying increased; after they have basically survived, switch to normal management, and never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activities basically stop and their metabolic level is very low; watering should be reduced, the potting soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), bleeding heart, etc., in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, surviving the summer in dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Maranta species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Dieffenbachia, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, firethorn, calamondin, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also appropriate leaf spraying should be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially in continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the potting soil is found too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots; never water the roots heavily, otherwise it very easily causes woody flowers to "drop green leaves", or causes the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even causes the plant to die.
For potted Japanese apricot bonsai, because July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain; if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. First, species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, species for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as calamondin, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as lady palm, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, besides topdressing necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    Flower species for which fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, goldfussia (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, snapdragon (Longkou flower), etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming cestrum, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many foliage plant species, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Maranta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem (Fittonia), sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormancy or semi-dormancy, fertilization must be stopped, especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Mesembryanthemum, Stapelia, etc.; fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and pinched in summer must be species with vigorous growth, strong sprouting ability and tolerance to pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal buds at the tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, water willow, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, promoting the sprouting of lower lateral buds so as to form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as spiny cedar (Juniperus rigida), Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak (Quercus acutissima), Ilex cornuta (cat's-eye holly), shimpaku juniper, etc.
For potted flower species that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., the faded flowers and withered stalks should be promptly removed, and necessary shortening pruning should be given to the branches that have bloomed, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming; and for rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and highest temperature of the year, and special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that like shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, lady palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Rhaphidophora, bromeliads, Maranta species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, peach, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Japanese black pine, water willow, oak (Quercus acutissima), Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. And for Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, besides giving necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in moist sand, which can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with relatively highly leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus mutabilis (rose of Sharon), fan palm, lady palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba, etc.; it is not advisable to choose sword fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets, to prevent wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year; poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy days are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or trunks of Japanese apricot, peach, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, flowering almond, etc., it is mostly caused by larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Control methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leafroller moth (Glyphodes perspectalis) that harms boxleaf euonymus, Japanese boxwood, small-leaf boxwood (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), and pearl boxwood; when this pest occurs severely it can eat all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of calamondin, kumquat, golden bean, bergamot, lemon, citron and rue; promptly spray stomach-poison pesticides to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect (Ericerus pela) that harms glossy privet, small-leaf privet, water ash and white ash, late July to late August is its emergence period; choose the right time to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing harm again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc.; in severe cases the insects often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs; promptly spray pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branch injuries are easily infected by pathogens and hard to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in spring or grown in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, hiba arborvitae, Chinese cypress, serissa, Japanese black pine, boxleaf euonymus, water willow, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, with gentle wiring and slow bending, applying force gradually; do not rush the operation or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7, Minor Heat; July 23, Major Heat.

Flower Growing Manual Autumn

Flower Growing Manual (August)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August, with high temperature, strong light and low humidity, is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year; the average monthly temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron (Yucca), croton, Brazilian wood, lady palm, money tree, Schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia (Begonia maculata), snapdragon (Longkou flower), marigold, coreopsis (Coreopsis), phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine, etc.; they can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Pomegranate for fruit viewing is harvested after it ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, sea lavender (Limonium), petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed medium of alkaline-removed rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flowering shrub species: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, coral tree (Erythrina), Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, agarwood (Aquilaria sinensis), Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the medium, you can root cuttings of boxwood species, pomegranate, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc. can also be cut this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering shrubs can be grafted: in northern regions, use Chinese fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) as rootstock and graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia or white magnolia as rootstock and bud-graft Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana); use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering plum, flowering almond, etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft Midget crabapple and Hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock, change the crown and graft red maple, feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), climbing Chinese rose, weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, broom (Caragana), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-head Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra, umbrella plant, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem (Fittonia), iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), Dutch aster, fine-leaf Acorus, sword fern, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Maranta species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting to achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Buddhist pine, Michelia figo, dragon juniper ball, Shu cypress ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), Aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon (Longkou flower), etc., which are expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for courtyard roadside hedges of boxwood, small-leaf privet, glossy privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, etc., continue to prune. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, dragon juniper, Shu cypress, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering shrubs that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., promptly remove faded flowers and moderately shorten the branch tips. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, coreopsis (Coreopsis), marigold, etc., topping and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and planted-out herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are tied with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum), golden-edge (golden-heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry (Acalypha), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet variegata, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, apply quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., promptly apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering. For camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by leaf topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, glossy privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetle, aphids, etc. occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that gnaw Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping water temperature basically consistent with soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that like acidic conditions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense down on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron-cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, etc., water droplets that fall on the leaves are not easy to evaporate and easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, filling the leaf tank with water to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, control watering and spraying, just keep the potting soil slightly moist; by spraying the small environment around the flower pot, create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lady palm, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, pandanus (Pandanus), Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), Zanzibar gem (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera, Aucuba, parlor palm, croton, Japanese fatsia, etc., apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as urea liquid, special flower fertilizer or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as calamondin, bergamot, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, golden bullet (Diospyros cathayensis), fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., besides ensuring nitrogen supply, also apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon (Longkou flower), China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flowering shrub species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves once with water after fertilizing, to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, cactus balls, etc., stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it very easily causes root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that like cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Maranta species, red (green) gem (Fittonia), lady palm, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchid grass species, Dieffenbachia, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, parlor palm, mosaic plant (Fittonia), purple velvet plant, blood-leaf orchid (Ludisia discolor), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), etc., continue to give shade-frame shading, pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune tree stump bonsai with vigorous growth, tolerance to pruning and easy sprouting, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, boxleaf euonymus, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten-prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, peach red-necked longhorn beetle, etc. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight, etc. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, stem borers, etc.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak (Quercus acutissima), Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, part of the flowering shrubs on the balcony can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, such as Cymbidium orchids, Dendrobium orchids, Cattleya orchids, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda orchids, Oncidium orchids, South American cycad, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem (Fittonia), Maranta, areca palm, king coconut, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, lady palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, mosaic plant (Fittonia), goldfussia (Pachystachys lutea), Brazilian wood, Japanese fatsia, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to retain moisture and root-cut some ornamental plants. The cutting medium can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cut include: Schefflera, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', begonia (Begonia maculata), gardenia, goldfussia (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', camellia, sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc.; for the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-cut, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline, plumeria, geranium, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use bricks to build a simple sand bed, put 10 cm thick moist sand inside, then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the moist sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Chloranthus spicatus, etc.; usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to safely pass the summer. For Cymbidium orchids, tiger orchid (Cymbidium hookerianum), Oncidium orchids, Cattleya orchids, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchids, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms and sprayed instead of watered, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', wisteria, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), water willow, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormancy and semi-dormancy. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea liquid, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering shrubs mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, calamondin, firethorn, bergamot, kumquat, etc., continue to topdress with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Buddhist pine, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple, water willow, boxleaf euonymus, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Japanese apricot, trident maple, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowering shrubs on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak (Quercus acutissima), small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stalks, dead branches and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be promptly cut off.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony; promptly spray 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowering shrubs, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them

Flower Growing Manual (September)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of China gradually drops, with an average monthly temperature between 20°C and 24°C. There are relatively many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display this month. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, lady palm, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia (Garcinia), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, pandanus (Pandanus), nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia (Begonia maculata), marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon (Longkou flower), etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm; cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture; summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that summer wintersweet can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in moist sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers; herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall silene, dwarf silene, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting medium, flowering shrub species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, golden-vein justicia, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, spiraea, pomegranate, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cut, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following ornamental trees and shrubs can be propagated by grafting: use peony root sections as rootstock to graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedling rootstocks of wild peach, apricot, etc. to bud-graft flowering plum (Prunus triloba), ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, wintersweet, etc.; use field maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock to bag-moisture whip-graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock to graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock to graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Syngonium podophyllum, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, Liriope muscari, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris radiata, Scilla peruviana, etc. can also have their bulblets divided and replanted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of garden flowers planted in the ground
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures in September are still relatively high, garden flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the garden unless there is a special need. If it is for the layout of a newly built garden or the renovation of an old garden, transplanting can be carried out provided the root ball is kept intact. Species include: Nerium oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, boxwood species, Hypericum monogynum, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting and shading management must be strengthened to ensure success. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Cosmos sulphureus, Dahlia pinnata, Calendula officinalis, dwarf Canna indica, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting garden hedges and topiary ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of the year for topiary plants in the growing season in northern regions. Garden hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, Thuja orientalis 'Aurea' (golden biota), etc. Topiary ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', boxwood, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, Forsythia viridissima, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can have their tips pinched include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and more flower spikes on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously for a long time, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, Lagerstroemia indica, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have already bloomed, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. Continuing good watering and misting management for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the garden in spring of the same year is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around tree trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, misting and moisture retention should also be done well.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as Ligustrum vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, red maple, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Alpinia zerumbet var. variegata, Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Acalypha wilkesiana, Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Prunus cerasifera, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers in autumn or fruit, such as Lagerstroemia indica, roses, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Citrus microcarpa, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Hibiscus mutabilis, chrysanthemum, Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, orange osmanthus, etc. that are currently blooming, fertilizing can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth (Parasa lepida) harming flowers and trees such as Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and crabapple, spray 800 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming Lagerstroemia indica, Chaenomeles, and crabapple, insert poisonous sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, apply 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, Michelia figo, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, Magnolia grandiflora, etc. In addition, there are Aesculus species, Lagerstroemia indica, Syringa, crabapple species, Cercis chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, Chimonanthus nitens, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as Taxus chinensis, Aesculus, crabapple species, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown only after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: Tagetes erecta, Zinnia elegans, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Helichrysum bracteatum, Callistephus chinensis, etc.; after collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of garden potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, light is strong, temperatures are high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate foliar spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so fertilizing management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with a very long flowering period or peak flowering in autumn, such as roses, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc.; fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles, Diospyros cathayensis, Callicarpa bodinieri, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, bromeliads, Ficus benjamina var. variegata, Dracaena fragrans 'Golden Coast', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus blumei, etc., apply fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Calla lily, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybrid, etc. that are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., apply low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, chrysanthemum, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for budding and blooming next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are relatively high and sunlight is still strong, so shading management for garden potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', orchid grass, Dieffenbachia, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Syngonium podophyllum, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Justicia brandegeeana, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris multifida var. variegata, Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia picta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Dracaena sanderiana, etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai stock), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, roses, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., full light can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting of the plants and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do well the work of disbudding and removing buds; for roses, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum quihoui, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai stock), Sabina chinensis var. sargentii, Fraxinus chinensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., insert poisonous sticks to block and kill them, or bury and apply carbofuran granules for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 1500 times dilution of 40% Supracide for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai stock), Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, roses, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; while for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-mouth flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of equal parts rice chaff ash and wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate some ornamental plants by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', etc. Schefflera octophylla, roses, gardenia, fig, Aglaonema modestum, etc. can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer humidity, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium podophyllum, Chloranthus spicatus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, usually spraying water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, spraying should also be frequent and watering should be less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least once or twice a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and spray once or twice a day, or use the soaking method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted bonsai trees, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as Michelia alba, roses, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Osmanthus fragrans, chrysanthemum, etc., apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, depending on the species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul odor, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering amount, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; if there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai stock), Sabina chinensis, Sabina procumbens, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, faded flowers and withered stems should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be killed by spraying 1500 times dilution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, and Juniperus bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), crabapple, Chaenomeles, longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poisonous sticks or bury and apply carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 1500 times dilution of 40% Supracide for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers and plants suitable for garden display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. There are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for garden display this month. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina var. variegata, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Zamia furfuracea, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, red maple, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena concinna, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, Begonia 'Coccinea', Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum var. cerasiforme, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for species originally from the south but cultivated in the north.

Propagation of garden flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela coraeensis, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium ascendens, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. For the above seeds, except that Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela coraeensis seeds can be stored dry until spring sowing, for other species, after the seeds are cleaned, store them in wet sand to accelerate germination until the seeds crack and show white in spring, then sow. Note that before storage for germination acceleration, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination acceleration process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene coeli-rosa, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris tectorum, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela coraeensis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica var. fortunei, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, roses, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retention cuttings. In addition, when frost descends, attention should be paid to cold protection when taking cuttings of some southern flowers and trees. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia 'Coccinea', Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Justicia aurea, cold chrysanthemum, etc. (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Akama'), Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki'; use peony roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of tree peony; use 1-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, graft various cactus ball types; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Weigela coraeensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Bayuegui', snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica var. fortunei, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia species, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica var. pleniflora, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris tectorum, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: Calla lily, Hippeastrum, freesia, Lycoris radiata, tulip, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of garden flowers planted in the ground

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, they can be transplanted after frost descends and they lose their leaves, depending on local climate changes, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Prunus triloba, pomegranate, Syringa, Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Magnolia liliiflora, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, Thuja orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting: first, shorten and prune before transplanting; second, keep a good root ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Garden herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for garden hedges and topiary plants, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Garden color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Thuja orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Topiary plants that need pruning include: Sabina chinensis, boxwood, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowers and trees in the garden, such as roses, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have already bloomed. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the garden, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the open flower spikes to encourage lateral shoots to continue producing and opening flowers, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For garden flowers and trees newly planted in the same year, continue to do good watering and misting work: first, keep the root soil moist, but there should be no waterlogging; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, misting and moisture retention should also be done well.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the garden, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already bloomed, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for roses, crabapple, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, as well as Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), wintersweet, etc. that have already been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina and Pyracantha fortuneana that are in the fruit-viewing state, as well as Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, kumquat, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros cathayensis, etc. in the south, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poisonous sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the garden, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the garden, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture on the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc.; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Euphorbia marginata, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting in spring of the following year.

Management of garden potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River, temperatures are still above 17°C and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Calla lily, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., increase the watering amount. For wintersweet, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and spraying increased to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), wintersweet, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Narcissus poeticus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, kumquat, Nandina, coralberry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Emerald Queen', Boston fern, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out heavy shortening; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or after removal re-bound, to prevent long-term tight binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing dead branches and leaves.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried at the end of the month in sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them together, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetle, leaf-miner larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Buxus sinica, pomegranate, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Ginkgo biloba, roses, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, large-mouth flower pots can continue to be used on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of equal parts rice chaff ash and wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying; for species that have already developed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be too much, and spraying the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Maranta species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should be mainly sprayed and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Calla lily, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, Citrus japonica, lemon, Nandina, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, coralberry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc. mainly for fruit viewing, continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., apply 1 to 2 times thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering amount, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent soil compaction, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon on clear days. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai stock), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Ligustrum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. For metal wire or non-metal wire that has been tied for more than a year, it can be untied first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, it can be re-tied and fixed at a different binding position, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as roses, wintersweet, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, plowing the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and frost protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata (Ardisia crenata), Trachycarpus fortunei, French holly (Ilex aquifolium), Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume) (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), roses (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Argenteo-variegatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum vicaryi, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata', etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by spring of the following year, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate topiary greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, Begonia 'Coccinea', Begonia masoniana, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc. can also be propagated by cuttings, and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use field maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, bag-graft red maple and feather maple indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft wintersweet plum (Prunus mume) (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock and scion wood, and use branches of superior rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the graft union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. The main flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November are: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', pomegranate, Camellia japonica, wintersweet plum (Prunus mume), wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliiflora, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica var. fortunei, Trillium, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, tree peony, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa multiplex var. nana, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna indica, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris tectorum, ornamental bromeliads, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Aglaonema modestum, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe pinnata, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Hibiscus coccineus, etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, roses (used to cultivate rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), red maple (Acer palmatum), redleaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis gigantea), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), Magnolia soulangeana, papaya (Chaenomeles), crabapple (Malus), etc. Among these, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be properly shortened or cut back, and most of the leaves removed; the trunk should be bound with straw rope, and a large root ball must be kept (generally the root ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival. When transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches pruned, with a good root ball kept and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from within the tree.

    In November, plum bonsai, wintersweet, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana can be transplanted into pots and placed in a greenhouse to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc., should be moved into a greenhouse to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in a greenhouse, plastic tunnel, or indoors, the amount of watering in November should be based on keeping the potting soil moist; it must not be too wet, because if the temperature is low and too much water is given, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary foliar spraying should be given.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, firethorn (Pyracantha), nandina (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water frequently to promote the expansion and growth of flower buds and to make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the foliage green and glossy at all times. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, pink-striped Calathea, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time to water potted flowers is around 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Rhododendron obtusum, camellia, sasanqua camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), and Aechmea, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, topdressing should be stopped to facilitate normal dormancy and overwintering. For most field-grown flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunshanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia, herbaceous peony, and Hypericum, dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive less, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Xylosma), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), wintersweet, and crabapple, to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune field-grown or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned; for each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches. For unpruned field-grown crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), heavily shorten the current-year branches; apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all other current-year branches, to help produce more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flower beds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, and crabapple, cut off all disordered branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately shorten water sprouts protruding beyond the canopy. In addition, in November, large palm trees can have their fiber stripped and the trunks cleaned, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering trees that are not very afraid of cold, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm (Caryota), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), and Rhapis excelsa, they can be placed in a plastic tunnel as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Maranta, pink-striped Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-lobed Philodendron, Aglaia odorata, Croton, Pachystachys lutea, Pachystachys, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Paphiopedilum, they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is no lower than 10°C, or protected through winter in a double-layer plastic tunnel.

For relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), emerald cypress (Sabina), Chinese juniper, trident maple, and red maple, they can be buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or indoors in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent plants from dropping flowers, fruits, and leaves due to being stuffy indoors for a long time. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can easily cause leaf and fruit drop. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence next year.

Continue whitewashing street tree trunks; for dead-trunk and split-trunk bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the tree stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchid, camellia, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Rhododendron obtusum placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizer products; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is very likely to occur.

    Bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November mainly include: Buddhist pine, emerald cypress (Sabina), Chinese juniper, velvet cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), prostrate cypress (Juniperus procumbens), Euonymus pendulus, Serissa japonica, plum blossom, Corylopsis, oak (Xylosma), holly osmanthus (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Chinese elm, and Malus halliana.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted anew.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches next year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, tree stumps that have basically taken shape can, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, be repotted into suitable pots, matched with scholar's rocks, and dotted with moss, ready for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Chaenomeles speciosa can be potted in suitable containers in November, with water management strengthened, and can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most regions of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frosts. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and homes; second, do a good job in pruning, cleaning, and land turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job in preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixed potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy (Gerbera). Flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly species, firethorn, palm, glossy privet, camphor tree, small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), soapberry, photinia (Photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttage. Woody ornamental flowering tree species that can be cut in open fields in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); redleaf plum, wintersweet (cut with a heel), spiraea, and boxwood species. Among these, plum blossom and redleaf plum cuttings should use yellow heart soil; Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), Epiphyllum, gem plant (Graptopetalum), Echeveria, portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), Bryophyllum, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Schefflera, Daphne odora, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and Cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Serissa japonica, firethorn, silver willow (Salix gracilistyla), and Triarrhena. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis), lilac, and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in spring next year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant at a certain row spacing on the seedbed, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering; cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and remove the film in early spring next year after the scion sprouts. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; or use robust branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions onto the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' sections into a loose seedbed. The grafted part can be buried together in sandy soil; do not let water seep into the graft union when watering; cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, remove the film in spring next year after the scion sprouts, and only after it has completely survived use a blade to cut the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum (Viburnum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), red wood sorrel (Oxalis rubra), Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope), Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, and Aglaonema. When cutting off offsets from the base of a large variegated bromeliad, the offsets must be small plants that have grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colored bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal (Agave sisalana), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Harvesting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in December are generally herbaceous flowers moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia species, Gomphrena species, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after harvesting.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, glossy privet, small-leaved privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya (Chaenomeles), Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholartree (Sophora japonica), and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: glossy privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron, and holly. When transplanting, first heavily shorten the main tip and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, keep a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration. After transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc., continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic tunnel with a temperature not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose (Primula), Lantana camara, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium, hibiscus, and Bambusa ventricosa, they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic tunnel. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as Croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink-striped Calathea, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, South American cycad (Zamia), red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in a double-layer tunnel with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, add straw curtains on top of the tunnel, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak (Xylosma), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, emerald cypress (Sabina), Chinese juniper, red cypress (Platycladus orientalis), water willow (Adina rubella), holly osmanthus, and Fraxinus hupehensis, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit-viewing plants must not only be kept at an appropriate indoor temperature, but also be given ventilation; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and too much water is given, it is very easy to cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit-viewing types such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, calamondin (Citrus microcarpa), golden kumquat (Fortunella), winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to promote the expansion of flower buds and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, keep the potting soil moist and also give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lower limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering to ensure safe overwintering.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most field-grown greening trees and flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, redleaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, herbaceous peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia (Deutzia), pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banks rose (Rosa banksiae), Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), dwarf cherry (Prunus japonica), white silk tree (Amorpha), photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, bromeliads, Daphne odora, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not finished being pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include species such as glossy privet, small-leaved privet, French green (Ligustrum), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped plants include holly osmanthus, bayberry (Myrica), photinia, boxwood species, Pittosporum tobira, Forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), and spiny cypress (Juniperus rigida). While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For field-grown flowering trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, redleaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, holly osmanthus, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak (Xylosma), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Buddhist pine, emerald cypress (Sabina), Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya (Chaenomeles), continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, for the former use triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl for control in time, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl.

For species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels where scale insects are likely to appear on flowers and trees, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then use pesticides such as Supracide for control.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaved privet, firethorn, oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), armored scales (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybugs (Pseudococcidae), and felt scales (Eriococcidae). At this time, spray with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin for control, and phytotoxicity rarely occurs.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil preparation, use the winter leisure time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, and pigeon manure with garden soil for composting, seal for fermentation, and use for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Use the winter leisure time to find an open space or under tree shade and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then fully mixed, covered with plastic film, or piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden land to be used next year for sowing, cutting, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for land for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Chinese juniper, emerald cypress (Sabina), velvet cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine, red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), holly osmanthus, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, Serissa japonica, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Corylopsis, tamarisk (Tamarix), Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan (Ficus), Fujian tea, Fraxinus hupehensis, and oak (Xylosma).

For bonsai plants fixed by coiling and shaping with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already been in place for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed and the plant re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For field-grown shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, and crape myrtle, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most regions of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year occurs. This month, the most important thing in flower maintenance is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc., in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing land, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open fields include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, glossy privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cuttage propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), redleaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver willow, Mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and Jasminum officinale. Species that can be propagated by cuttage in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia (Fuchsia), African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), gem plant, jade leaf (Portulacaria), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Pilea, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne odora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom cultivars can be propagated by grafting using one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach as rootstocks; after grafting, bury and plant on the seedbed, cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft and propagate calamondin, kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, use the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, grafting and cuttage carried out simultaneously, cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Zephyranthes carinata, hosta, purple hosta, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant (Chlorophytum), Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small tulip (Tulipa), Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Harvesting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after harvesting; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species, and Ardisia crenata can be harvested; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and sow only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, and holly species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, pour out the seeds, rub and wash them again, and replace with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish spraying with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, sow immediately and cover with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in colder regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, first place them in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya (Chaenomeles), Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, Chinese scholartree, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and French green (Ligustrum), this month, except in special cases, transplanting should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, with heavy shortening after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Rhododendron simsii, crape myrtle, Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat-spine (Ilex cornuta), holly osmanthus, holly, and oak (Xylosma), heavy shortening must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's heat preservation and cold protection work is the top priority in management work; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special environment for safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In a simple plastic tunnel with a temperature not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure a low temperature of about 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Japanese aralia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Paphiopedilum, Ardisia crenata, Daphne odora, sago palm, Acorus calamus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei. In a double-layer plastic tunnel with a temperature not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure a low temperature of about 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, Aglaia odorata, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Bambusa ventricosa, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara. In a double-layer plastic tunnel or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure a low temperature of about 10°C can be placed, such as Croton, Caladium, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, Coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, South American cycad, desert rose (Adenium obesum), pink-striped Calathea, poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea, and Justicia carnea. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to add straw curtains on top of the tunnel, and stop adding straw curtains only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 a.m.; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak (Xylosma), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, green cypress (Sabina), Chinese juniper, summer cypress (Kochia), Oriental arborvitae, small bayberry (Myrica), holly osmanthus, holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis, they can be buried in soil together with the flower pots; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit-viewing and foliage plants, besides maintaining an appropriate air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air intrusion; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to freeze potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, and do not let leaked gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamp), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, and winter jasmine can also be placed in a plastic tunnel at about 15°C for flower forcing, with the lighting time appropriately increased, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, and freesia that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, the most important thing is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, to keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too great, it can easily cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and may even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death. The best time for watering is around midday, within 2 to 3 hours. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, it is advisable to keep the potting soil moist. When the temperature is relatively low, watering should be reduced accordingly; when the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and water can be sprayed on the leaves. For the vast majority of foliage plants, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to spray water on the leaves, always keeping the leaves clean. For foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta arundinacea, and Codiaeum variegatum, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of what the plant can tolerate, watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pericallis hybrida, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Primula malacoides, Hyacinthus orientalis, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, and Calendula officinalis, and for fruit-viewing types such as Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, Citrus limon, Ardisia crenata, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, and Solanum capsicastrum, it is not only necessary to keep the potting soil moist, but also necessary to spray water on the plants to help the flower buds expand and to increase the bright color of the fruit.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from suffering water shortage, and plants whose potting soil has dried out should be watered promptly, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, inspections should be made frequently and supplemental watering given promptly. Especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, water should also be sprayed appropriately on the leaves around midday to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilization

For most of the landscaping trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as Malus species, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species, Acer species, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Tilia species, Lagerstroemia indica, Campsis grandiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Schima superba, Machilus species, Nyssa sinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Buxus species, Vitis vinifera, Viburnum odoratissimum, Rosa chinensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Liriodendron chinense, Deutzia scabra, Philadelphus coronarius, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Salix babylonica f. aureo-pendula, Ulmus pumila var. pendula, Cryptomeria fortunei, Taiwania cryptomerioides, Cedrus deodara, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Exochorda racemosa, Hibiscus syriacus, Syringa oblata, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia serratifolia, Nandina domestica, Phyllostachys nigra, Punica granatum, and Eriobotrya japonica, if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the tree root system, laying a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Cyclamen persicum, Narcissus poeticus, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Vriesea splendens, Clivia miniata, Strelitzia reginae, and Schlumbergera truncata, low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as a topdressing to benefit plant growth and flower bud formation and blooming.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped plants whose pruning was not completed in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs whose pruning was not completed in December, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Rosa banksiae, Campsis grandiflora, Wisteria sinensis, Rosa floribunda, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Sapium sebiferum, Photinia serratifolia, Punica granatum, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Trachycarpus fortunei, and Vitis vinifera, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the root system to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Carmona retusa, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, and Juniperus chinensis, pruning and adjustment can continue according to the original composition requirements, the development and changes of the plant's trunk and branches, and individual aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of Malus species, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Chaenomeles sinensis, Eriobotrya japonica, Prunus persica f. duplex, Prunus serrulata, and Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea that have been hollowed out by borers such as Aromia bungii, the affected parts can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clean up the leaves under Rosa chinensis, Rosa rugosa, Vitis vinifera, Lagerstroemia indica, and other trees, gather them, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, Icerya purchasi, Pseudaulacaspis pentagona, Unaspis yanonensis, Pseudococcidae, and Coccidae appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, Platanus orientalis, Ligustrum lucidum, Pyracantha fortuneana, Diospyros kaki, Gardenia jasminoides, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, and Photinia serratifolia, use high-concentration sprays such as methidathion, quinalphos, buprofezin, and lime sulfur mixture to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses and gray mold that easily appears on Primula malacoides leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For the simultaneous occurrence of scale insects and sooty mold on plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, and Fortunella margarita in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe away the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on Cyclamen persicum plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into a water tank or vat to soak and ferment, so that they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dry grass, branches, fallen leaves, and the like in layers with garden soil, set them on fire, and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco dust, chicken droppings, and pigeon manure with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and use it as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Soil

For nursery land that was not plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, and after overwintering and freezing, dig furrows and make beds in early spring for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and ease of shaping operations, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calocedrus macrolepis, Ginkgo biloba, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sabina chinensis, Serissa japonica, Sabina procumbens, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Corylopsis sinensis, Euonymus alatus var. pendulus, Ficus microcarpa, and Wisteria sinensis. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic tunnel, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the possible injured parts from shaping heal.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and the plants should be rewired and trained.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; stump bonsai should be prevented from having the potting soil freeze, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could also cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. It is also necessary to prevent plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.