How often should you change the water for hydroponic lucky bamboo? Solve yellowing, drooping leaves this way

 Lucky bamboo is something many people absolutely love to grow, and it stays green all year round. How often should you change the water for hydroponic lucky bamboo? What to do about yellowing, drooping leaves:

How often to change the water for hydroponic lucky bamboo:

1. When choosing lucky bamboo, pick plants that are robust and vigorous, with undamaged leaves, leaves that have not been eaten by insects, and a well-developed, unrestricted root system.

2. When growing lucky bamboo in water indoors, place it in a spot with good light, and frequently rotate the position where it receives light.

3. As for the water used for growing it, you can use purified water or tap water. Put the lucky bamboo into a container, pour in water, and the water level should submerge the roots, changing the water about every 5 days. When changing the water, clean the container to avoid odor building up over time and causing root rot.

4. When cleaning, rinse the branches, leaves and roots with clean water.

5. Winters in the north are cold, so when overwintering, cover the lucky bamboo with plastic film and just place it in a sunny spot indoors.

6. When planting, be careful to protect the root system and try to straighten it out so that most of all the roots can be submerged in the water.

What to do about yellowing leaves on hydroponic lucky bamboo:

1. Light: It likes a semi-shaded, warm, humid, well-ventilated environment. If exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves will scorch and turn yellow, so avoid direct sunlight. But if the light is too dim, the leaves will also fade. In addition, if ventilation is poor, the leaves will also turn yellow and wither, so it must be placed in a well-ventilated spot.

2. Watering: Lucky bamboo is not drought-tolerant and hates waterlogging. If watered too frequently and waterlogging occurs, it will cause root rot, which in turn makes the leaves yellow or even kills the plant. When watering lucky bamboo, follow the principle of not watering until dry, and watering thoroughly when you do. If you cannot water in time, or fail to water thoroughly for a long time, the leaves will drop. In addition, while watering, you should also mist the leaf surface and sprinkle water on the ground to maintain air humidity.

3. Fertilizing: Lucky bamboo's growth nearly stops during high summer temperatures and low winter temperatures. At these times, stop fertilizing, otherwise it will cause root rot and yellowing leaves.

4. Pests: Pests can also cause lucky bamboo leaves to turn yellow. The control methods are:

(1) If there are few affected plants or few insects, generally just scrape off the insects with a bamboo strip or similar object; (2) During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution), or spray with 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution to kill them.

That's all for the methods of hydroponic lucky bamboo. Be careful of leaves turning yellow and drooping.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions; some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including jade
plant (money tree), money tree (Pachira), Peperomia, sunflower plant (Scindapsus?), arrowroot (Maranta), little angel (Syngonium), Marian (Dieffenbachia 'Marianne'), sansevieria, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid (Anoectochilus), snake plant (Sansevieria) and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the top choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they can precipitate each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So currently, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions sold on the market come as only one part, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system, and it cannot be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the roots should be left exposed in the air above the liquid surface, so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also should not be too little, because if it is too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do home hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but since hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in a relatively poor-light environment, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs its own corresponding nutrient solution. You only need to choose different nutrient solutions according to the different major categories, and of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments first. First, take out the soil-grown flower and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them into a hydroponic container for hydroponics.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers are small species, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are actually prone to overeating and dying. At the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should you supplement or replace the nutrient solution?

Answer: This depends on the plant's water consumption rate. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally after about 15-20 days you need to supplement the nutrient solution once, and just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution when supplementing. When supplementing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container's depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. During storage, keep the concentrated nutrient solution away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Family hydroponic flower experience talk

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: (1) Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. (2) No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing the labor of growing flowers. (3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. (4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. (5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stabilized above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong aglaonema, Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), Monstera deliciosa, calla lily (Alocasia), pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant (Tradescantia), Tradescantia zebrina, coleus, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), miniature coconut palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth and other flowering plants also have good results with hydroponics. Boston fern, calendula, petunia, red-backed eurya (Excoecaria) and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. (1) Container. Any beautiful water-holding container can be used. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc. The top opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, texture, etc. of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect before use. (2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as: pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown all year round. Flowering plants are best grown when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, etc. are often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full bloom period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. (1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, take it out of the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted or aged? For dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes? This both sterilizes and disinfects, and can also promote new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. (2) Water-cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made two or three millimeters below a stem node, and the cut surface should be smoothed with a sharp knife? wiped beforehand with white liquor for disinfection? and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changing. (1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and it contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial for flower growth. (2) Changing water. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and excessive residual elements that have not been absorbed can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. And changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water about once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes root water shortage and affects growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics, new roots will form. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. You can buy different types of flower nutrient solutions on the market as needed. It must be noted that: (1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. (2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used for their specific purposes, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos and Dieffenbachia.

Pest and disease control techniques for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on the flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and washed of roots and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, etc. If not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the special nature of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

For possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and lower leaves to yellow and drop. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot disease more likely, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and dropping in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the disconnected section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), etc. can all use this method.

The complete family hydroponic flower manual

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Take flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, out of their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into still water; after rooting, grow them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple (bromeliad); these small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that grow many offsets, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off offsets with roots can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, to use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a cultivation container that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flower, is leak-proof, and has no bottom hole.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients necessary for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 ml).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC < 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution and grow them, and it becomes a uniquely charming static hydroponic flower.

To prepare the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, generally drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. They are both strictly treated, clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-germ) cultivation. But full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically contains no nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used to disinfect tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a larger-mouth bucket for a few days, and stir it a few times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If you urgently need water for changing, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which helps the flowers absorb trace elements, keeps physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensures normal growth, and keeps the leaves green.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under root oxygen deficiency conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve flower quality, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off; the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower viewing, such as calla lily (Spathiphyllum?), four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, spray the leaf surface once a week with a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, old leaves yellowing, and wilting and dropping. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are more cold-tolerant, such as ivy, periwinkle (Vinca), and Senecio, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their leaf luster, grow sluggishly, and have scorch-like brown spots on the leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Root rot is common in static hydroponics above 30°C. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in more shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to mist the leaf surface of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after misting move the flowers back indoors for display). When misting, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run off. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, then in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth becomes worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and dropping leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner, which is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on the flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and washed of roots and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, etc. If not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the special nature of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

For possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and lower leaves to yellow and drop. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot disease more likely, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and dropping in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the disconnected section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), etc. can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers is appropriate to display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and easy care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "requirements":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, it will not be long before they gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of terrestrial plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella papyrus, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, etc.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, overwintering requires relatively high temperatures, and they are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes and are prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf oyster plant (Tradescantia pallida), aloe, spider plant, umbrella papyrus, miniature coconut palm, bamboo palm, etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so when buying, you must distinguish carefully. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect the flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The hydroponic flowers of "Hydroponic Flower King" are very simple to manage daily. Aside from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need special care. Usually you only need to mist the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering every day, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely removed from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-germ nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment because of pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are removed from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. Not only can we enjoy the flowers and leaves, but we can also enjoy the process of root growth that is not usually seen and their various beautiful forms, making them very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, technology easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to grow water roots through planting baskets, nor does it need early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products a larger profit margin, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. This makes it relatively difficult to hydroponically grow some light-loving plants indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully hydroponically grown, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly four hundred. If you have sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and eco-friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic components, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special components, the nutrient solution is not prone to breeding mosquitoes. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your potted flowers at home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Facts have proven that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, with very obvious effects.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissues in their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissues to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen the plant needs from the air. Some flowers, although lacking both air-conducting tissues and oxygen-absorbing aerial roots, are still very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But some flowers' water oxygen content cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions. Do not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; for plants grown in soil, after washing with water, most of the existing roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong aglaonema, Dieffenbachia, silver king (Aglaonema), golden queen (Aglaonema), clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, green emerald (Philodendron), Philodendron, fiddle-leaf Philodendron, green emperor Philodendron, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), Alocasia, anthurium, emerald gem (Philodendron) and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: purple-leaf oyster plant (Tradescantia pallida), purple-backed spiderwort (Tradescantia zebrina), Lophatherum, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. All can root and grow rapidly in water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, cordyline, dragon blood tree (Dracaena), horse-tail iron (Dracaena), snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged aglaonema, silver-edged lilyturf, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as: Aeonium, Cotyledon, silver jade (Crassula), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Bryophyllum, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba, umbrella papyrus, coleus, purple velvet plant (Gynura), blue pine (Senecio), bamboo begonia, beefsteak begonia (Begonia), green emerald (Philodendron), clivia, paphiopedilum, croton, dusty miller (Senecio cineraria), Senecio, leaf cactus (Pereskia), triangular bamboo (Echinocactus?), pineapple (bromeliad), Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Trachelospermum, Euphorbia, Euphorbia, variegated periwinkle (Vinca), Excoecaria, Senecio, ivy, English ivy, bamboo palm, miniature coconut palm, etc.

When choosing the types of hydroponic flowers, in addition to considering that they must be able to adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers and plants adapt very well to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and Croton have overwintering temperature requirements above 15°C; pothos, Syngonium, golden-striped lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. For rooms that are heated in winter, this certainly poses no problem, but for most households, getting these flowers and plants safely through the cold winter is still very difficult. Although some flowers and plants will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature freeze damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will become scorched, or new scorched spots will appear on the leaves, and may even cause extensive leaf drop or partial dieback of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable indoor heating conditions, attention must be paid to selecting flower and plant types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for general household hydroponics include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Rohdea japonica, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Rhapis excelsa, Agave, Aucuba, Graptopetalum, Sea Onion, and Liriope, which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, Bambusa multiplex, Aloe, Spider Plant, Pachyphytum, Cyperus alternifolius, Gynura aurantiaca, Senecio cineraria, Chloranthus, Euphorbia tirucalli, Vinca major variegata, English Ivy, and Chamaedorea elegans, which can overwinter safely with only slight protection during the winter.

Of course, some flowers and plants such as Philodendron erubescens, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Syngonium, pothos, Sansevieria, and Croton, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that prefer partial shade or tolerate partial shade. At the same time, even shade-tolerant or partially shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Croton, Tradescantia pallida, and Tradescantia zebrina need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum, 'Green Giant', Aglaonema modestum, and Dieffenbachia 'Silver King' all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within rooms vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, so as to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose greenness and proper luster, and the colored stripes on the leaves to fade, or even cause a large number of fallen leaves, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Technique for growing Spider Plant in water

Spider Plant, with fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. For a single-layer bottle, take a plastic bottle without a bottom hole or a ceramic bottle without a bottom hole and plant the Spider Plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottle without a bottom hole as the lower layer, plant the Spider Plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the Spider Plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove a potted or field-grown Spider Plant from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves), and keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared Spider Plant into the bottle, tightly secure the bottle mouth with sponge and insert one plastic drinking straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the Spider Plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the Spider Plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the Spider Plant on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic granules or gravel (large particles) into the sieve, let the Spider Plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the Spider Plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For cultivation in a single-layer container bottle, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until the water is full. For a double-layer bottle, change the water once a week. When changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added through adding water and changing water at the roots. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider Plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut them off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

Outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family include more than 105 genera and over 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in waters or swamps in forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and others. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophilous species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
When terrestrial plants are grown by static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The newer Engler system holds that the most primitive member of Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophilous evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and phenomenally form a "negation" of their aquatic ancestors. Finally, they transform into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia. This return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of the "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding choices for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationships of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and that a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor with Arecales and Dasypogonales (primitive lily-like plants), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship-relatedness with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship-relatedness with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding choices for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotten and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system has turned yellow and changed color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone, and its epidermis will tear off very easily, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, it should be cut off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tips. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles, jars, and cultivation management

Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), and the like, with only slight modification, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only adapts to local conditions and makes full use of materials, but also greening the surrounding environment, with a considerable feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, wide-mouth glass or plastic bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, and so on. They were originally used to hold liquids, so as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "#"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth), about 8 × 12 cm, of the kind used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the hydroponic seedling or purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or from sofa and chair cushions) or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. With the aid of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat greater, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to avoid direct sunlight causing algae growth and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by exposure to sunlight, it is best to provide shade measures or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually polystyrene white hard foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength can all be used. Generally about 35 × 25 × 15 cm to 60 × 40 × 16 cm. If the bottom (body) of the box has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board of the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, to be used for normally observing the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick and with each of its four sides 2.5 to 3 cm smaller than the clear inner area of the box to serve as the floating board. Cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter regularly on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as capillary absorption for the nutrient solution. If these things truly cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer should extend about 6 cm beyond each of the four sides of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from the four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it by capillary action, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, in which the nutrient solution cannot circulate and oxygen cannot be supplied.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward by capillary action. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to absorption and transpiration by the plant, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete replacement.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a moist environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaf surfaces of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surfaces and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surfaces, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surfaces. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, are at a disadvantage for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, then in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither obtain the light they need nor have fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves, and new shoots that are thin and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges on flowers with relatively thin leaves and dry leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need this work done well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, when placed indoors, in living rooms, or in offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain bright leaf color only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will become necrotic below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are several days of extremely low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most interiors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need to have their soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-changing interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for Cyclamen

Growing Cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees Cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrates, it is both clean and beautiful, and can also give blooming Cyclamen plants many cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cultivation of Cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory Cyclamen potted flower, and prepare the container to be used for hydroponic Cyclamen. With the preparation work completed, you can begin making the hydroponic Cyclamen. For hydroponic Cyclamen, the purchased Cyclamen potted flower should be knocked out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. The plant together with the substrate can also be placed in a basin filled with water, and the substrate rinsed off in the water, then rinsed clean again with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, and damage to the Cyclamen root system should be avoided as much as possible. The rinsed-clean Cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic Cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating Cyclamen. The nutrients in the Cyclamen tuber can allow the Cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water level should be kept below the tuber. Generally, based on the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times per week to maintain the water level.

In fact, in hydroponic Cyclamen, the Cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic Cyclamen distinctive in character and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of the Cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Water-culture method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed, etc.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few attractive river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower hydroponics and water culture

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have become favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed during their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change the water once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, Spider Plant, Christmas Cactus, Dracaena fragrans, Rohdea japonica, clustered Xanthosoma, Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cacti and succulents, and also flowering flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as Bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the characteristics of the root system have already changed: the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes have been expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. Hydroponic flowers should have the nutrient solution added or replaced once a week, and care should be taken to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is one of the common types of soilless cultivation. There are many methods, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is entirely or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution can be placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to a plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside, wrapping the plant to form a dark internal space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's oxygen demand for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is opaque. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, and cover the bottle. The top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, but it must not be too full; leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water insertion to promote rooting, then nutrient solution is not necessary; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, the nutrient solution can be changed once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For adult flowers, change it once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growing season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, allowing the root system to be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Commercially sold fertilizer tablets or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared yourself, and the formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water insertion method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, without longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. After washing, plant the flowers in a prepared vessel and add tap water to cover 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially, change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and then water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Detaching tiller buds method: Suitable for flowers with relatively strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and Bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select relatively large tiller buds, remove the upper soil to expose the connection site with the mother plant, detach the tiller bud from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the roots of the tiller bud), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Picking runner plantlets method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and on the runners there are one to many small plantlets, most of which bear a small amount of fully developed roots, such as Spider Plant and Cryptanthus. Taking advantage of this characteristic of flowers, picking formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, Spider Plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum, and gladiolus.

Guide to overcoming the difficulties of summer care for hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in oxygen-deficient vessels. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass through summer.

Water culture of Ribbon Grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.

2. Vibration aeration

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration aeration method should not be used, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and their growth is clearly better than in static hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution changed once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.

3. What is a suitable location for hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flowers selected for hydroponics are mostly shade-tolerant foliage plants and plants grown for both flowers and leaves. Examples include Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Aglaonema 'White Jade' (Chinese evergreen), Spathiphyllum (peace lily), Anthurium, and Bromeliads. These flowers prefer warmth and humidity, tolerate slight shade, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation method; it cannot change their growth habits or required environmental factors. In summer, hydroponic flowers are best placed in a bright, slightly humid, cooler environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them in too much shade either, lest photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thinner. This causes the leaves of variegated and patterned flowers to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly in front of the air conditioner's air outlet; too fast an airflow will damage the branches and leaves, causing curled leaves in mild cases and scorched, withered edges in severe cases. Also consider that flowers require a higher temperature during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature rises above the daytime temperature when it was running, this is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is running, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or mist the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and position the flowers farther from the air outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done about root rot in hydroponic flowers?

Answer: As the temperature rises continuously, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Liliaceae plants such as Cordyline (dracaena), Dracaena fragrans (striped dracaena), and Dracaena concinna (rainbow dracaena).

The following methods can restore the growth of flowers with rotten roots:

① Remove all rotten roots completely; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut away the infected parts.

② Soak the pruned flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

③ Remove the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water with no nutrient solution added. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ Initially, the new roots should still be grown in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done when algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in hydroponic flower cultivation. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, containers are transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, algae will multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching an "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a method of soilless cultivation, in which the flower roots are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), also known as nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are growing five or six, or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of various species at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a matching plant nutrient solution for each type. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be used.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions typically contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, and a wide range of applications. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and have a pH value and ion concentration favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialized hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

Whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer is a matter of differing opinions. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are more tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are semi-dormant or dormant at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water. For example, Spathiphyllum, Epipremnum aureum (pothos), mini Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', and Philodendron species, using nutrient solution cultivation helps maintain their growth advantage and enhance ornamental quality. For flowers such as Coleus, Begonia maculata, and Bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough to get through the summer safely.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions; do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown hydroponically has changed, becoming looser with larger cells compared to soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial for flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth and makes it easy for them to adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties that are closely related to wetland plants. ② Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium podophyllum, mini Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Giant', Epipremnum aureum, and some Bromeliad flowers have a high survival rate when converted from soil to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage as much as possible or minimizing it. Use a larger container for cultivation, change the water once a day. After five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for Lucky Bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wanshouzhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. Plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include Dracaena sanderiana 'Golden Edge', whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Dracaena sanderiana 'Silver Edge', also known as striped bamboo dracaena, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures and high humidity; wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, leaves will scorch; during the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: Suitable with ample scattered light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anthurium andraeanum and lampstand flower.

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short; leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet; the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; wintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; winter requires heating and warmth.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method.

Hydroponic method for Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy manual labor, making it a cultivation method worth promoting vigorously.

1. Preparation of substrate

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, and after air-drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before use in pots.

2. Preparation of nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing season, apply light fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium EDTA, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of vitamin B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Since the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, the plant is in bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer; apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high; besides daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high; change to applying nutrient solution once a week and spray foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, take care to keep the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to applying nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately depending on the dryness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for Broadleaf Lady Palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; in winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short periods of low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally by division combined with repotting. Select large, dense clumps; first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several sections. When dividing, try to cut as few roots as possible, and keep each division with a certain plant shape. Then repot, water thoroughly, and place in a semi-shaded, humid location. Spray water on the leaves frequently. After growth resumes, normal care can be resumed.

Sowing: after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them immediately in pots; move to a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasites breed.

2: During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of Broadleaf Lady Palm is relatively hard in texture and not easily rots after hydroponics, but new roots sprout slowly, taking as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for Velvet Plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Velvet Plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for the dense purple-red fine hairs on stems and leaves that resemble velvet. Velvet Plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Velvet Plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause sunscald and leaf scorch, but too much shade will cause the plant to fade and turn green. Wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Velvet Plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and place them in a shaded, humid place after cutting; they will root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote lateral bud sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water; water roots will grow in just over 10 days. However, roots easily rot during high summer temperatures.

2: Velvet Plant grows rapidly; when the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote new shoot sprouting.

Hydroponic method for Parlor Palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant form. Stems are slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; it enters dormancy at 13°C, and the minimum wintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and withered, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor Palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. New roots can grow just a few days after washing.

Hydroponic method for Cactus (Ball Cactus)

We know that ball cacti are favored for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because ball cacti use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems of being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of ball cacti has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, select a ball cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to select a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward; ball cacti grafted and cultivated with three-angled cacti are easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots below the ball body, requiring a flat cut. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated ball cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing Echinocactus grusonii, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle, invert it, and use it; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of Echinocactus grusonii can emerge from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled cacti into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-angled cacti just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Purchase two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby accelerating the growth of water roots. (You can also purchase a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and power it on to achieve flow and oxygen circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted ball cactus in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Immediately replace the nutrient solution after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of ball cacti, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it easily causes the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing Clivia miniata hydroponically at home

Hydroponic Clivia miniata is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes; transparent ones are preferred, so that you can enjoy the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant; the diameter should not be too large.

② Cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, foliar fertilization should be noted to supply the nutrients needed for Clivia miniata growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic Clivia miniata needs regular solution changes; the frequency depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is lower, change about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change once every 10 days. When changing the solution, note to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow Hippeastrum hydroponically

In early winter, select one or several large Hippeastrum bulbs that have bloomed or not yet bloomed, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak in clean water. After about 48 hours, take out the bulbs, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry in the shade, and place in a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc. inside, then place the treated Hippeastrum bulbs. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The water depth should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the container. Finally, place in a well-lit indoor location. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C; leaves and roots will begin to grow in about 7-10 days. The water in the pot should always be maintained at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted Hippeastrum, just in time for the summer flowering gap period.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also known as soilless culture or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solutions and supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. To anchor the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat, and perlite, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans began farming, crops have been grown in soil, which is why the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture," a combination of "Agr" (soil) and "Culture" (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used three different kinds of water -- rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate -- to grow mint. The mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew the fastest, leading him to conclude that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations of the time, Woodward did not carry out further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop conducted the first precise experiments in soilless culture, successfully growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless culture technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless culture techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its pros and cons, but if judged only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants generally sold on the market today are usually in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless culture is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection timing, etc. in real time, and dedicated technicians use pH meters and conductivity meters to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of each element in real time. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless culture. Without a medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and off-smells while still growing normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution does not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and is non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a plant expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless culture technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, because of commercial interests, major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be known with just one test. You only need to see whether the plants on display are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will necrose. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most interiors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be grown from certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all common popular flowers can be hydroponically grown. However, in home environments, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown; in homes with balconies, the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Each of our specialty stores has a model display of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and due to the limited volume, fish species should also be selected carefully. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggression or strong destructive tendencies are also unsuitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in dedicated aquariums is difficult to succeed at, let alone in relatively poor conditions in a small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is exactly the same as when we normally feed fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which benefits the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot, there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, tap water generally fully meets the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During dilution, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King causes the chlorine in tap water to evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too greatly, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's topsoil lacks water: in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and to adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality; however, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow more chaotically, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, at a distance of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the potted plant but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the potted plant growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove from the pot a bonsai that has already grown water roots, fix the plant with a planting basket, and decorate it with stones or ornaments to make a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need to change the soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or too weak light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from false hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, after witnessing everything I cannot help but complain. This is because the scams involved not only damage consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants can be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed and directly soaked in water. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought home for dozens or hundreds [yuan] is only a fleeting flash. This not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After their roots are washed and directly soaked in water, no discomfort can be seen from the plant for a time, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot be achieved, so this is the main reason they currently can only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think, would be better and more truthfully called "deception liquid." It is simply impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial gimmick. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize; if the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be said to be a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking them in water, something even a fool can see how to concoct at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself is something developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once closed, the franchise fee is also as good as thrown away. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transportation. In fact, what they are selling now is all product made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring can also be kept in water for a period after root washing and soaking in water. Everyone might as well give it a try; there is simply no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology abroad. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, a jumble of the genuine and the fake. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes open and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to distinguish true from false hydroponic flowers

True and false hydroponic flowers are actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after only a short time, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from false in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Distinguish true from false by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and unlike roots in soil, they do not have taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they do not exist in the state of multi-level branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few levels and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of primary adventitious roots increases markedly, that is, the root proportion greatly increases, and the root system is numerous and developed, resembling a beard.

B. Distinguish true from false by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties whose roots show their natural color, their water roots are still noticeably lighter in color than soil roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, and pale brown. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cells have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification from thickened cell walls.

C. Distinguish true from false by root completeness: Roots induced by aquatic induction have undergone new growth and differentiation starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. In contrast, some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots. This root completeness is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Distinguish true from false by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions will undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, unclear feeling, that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually seedling death.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from false: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene show, after induction, a leaf attachment angle noticeably more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leading to a larger angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

In addition to requiring exactly the same environmental factors as soil cultivation in terms of light, temperature, and humidity, hydroponic flowers have management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen that are worlds apart -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source; generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment; it is clean and hygienic, and its pH is below 7, so it can be safely used to cultivate hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees and severely eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or poison them to death, so such water is not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and appropriately acidic or alkaline, which favors nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more unacceptable to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Increase oxygen by shaking: fix the flower plant with one hand, and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or an aeration pump (both are standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

For hydroponic flowers, growing flowers and fish together and combining movement and stillness is the first impression it gives. The earliest concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier also grew some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar water-tolerant plants in water, this concept does not belong to today's popular "hydroponic flower" concept!). It rose in 2003. Many enterprises and units with market vision successively invested in preliminary research and planning work for this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China: some provided technical study and training, some had base production, and some franchised flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profits, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, this added fuel to the hype around the concept of the domestic hydroponic flower market and let many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became sacrifices of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operating ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, and those who could survive were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, such a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the broad citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory perspective, using glass vases of various shapes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and other plants), and raising a few cute small fish below, that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological traits of their root systems change, forming water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and can adapt to long-term cultivation in water; only then can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current status of hydroponic flower technology. One, Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, after induction and domestication, the plant root system should have clean white, graceful roots and more fibrous roots, and be very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. The roots of soil-cultivated plants are generally dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has a unique color; for example, after induction of red-leaf loropetalum, from its roots to its branches and stem segments, all are dark red! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are also nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and was placed there to fool users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from a technical perspective:

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, only a so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," or "nutrient solution" is needed, and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few tens of minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. Therefore, a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects breed, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. The cultivation of water roots is also not something that nutrient solution alone can fully complete and achieve. It requires a combination of biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after fully adapting to the water environment can it become a professional true hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid- to high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, clean white and graceful roots, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water, grass, and other ornaments in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from the natural sensory impression, a relatively strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions and fixed supply channels for producing hydroponic flowers?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there is neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded producer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely just making "hydroponic flowers" from soil-cultivated plants after root washing!

Examining from varieties:

True professional hydroponic flower producers can produce hydroponic flower varieties that are not limited to those like Araceae and Crassulaceae plants that are themselves easy to grow in water, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, and Rohdea. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. Professional producers should be able to achieve hydroponics with all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it is certainly not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Examining from time:

Time is the final and sole criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water, but are only a fleeting flash and die after a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators made by washing off soil-cultivated roots and that can be produced in just a few hours. After a few days, the flowers bloom and then fade and fall! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for their goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
Four, How to identify true professional hydroponic flower producers?

Driven by interests, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad consumers and investors. In order to make it impossible for so-called high-tech shell companies that rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, and for "guerrilla" companies that transfer technology and then move to another place after one job, to have no place to stand. It also deprives malicious sellers who transfer immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and moreover, it is for your benefit so that you can learn these few true technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at more companies, and compare more; you must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go see the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "education shills," "housing shills," and "wine shills," fooling you with the skill of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible for you to guard against them!}}; you must carefully examine the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Aside from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product route, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, several types


 How to apply foliar fertilization to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be used for foliar spraying.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be lost. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and this can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as silver bract taro, four-season begonia, bamboo-node begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.

A complete collection of hydroponic methods for various flowers

Hydroponic methods for various flowers

Agave

1. Use the root-washing method or division method to convert established plants to hydroponics. Old roots also adapt to the hydroponic environment and generally will not rot. New roots grow in water in about 7 days. Suitable for low-concentration nutrient cultivation.

2. The umbrella papyrus crown is relatively large and dense, so the number of branches planted hydroponically should not be too many. Too dense affects ventilation and light transmission, and also appears messy and disorderly; being a bit sparse is more natural. 7-9 branches are enough.

3. To prevent lodging, deep containers should be used for planting.

4. Umbrella papyrus leaves have well-developed stomata and a very large number, with vigorous transpiration, so naturally consumed solution must be replenished in time. It is a relatively easy plant to grow hydroponically.

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Peace lily

1. Use the division method or root-washing method to hydroponically grow established plants. The original root system can quickly adapt to hydroponic conditions and generally will not develop root rot. New roots can sprout in 7-10 days, and in a short time you can enjoy the flowers, leaves, and roots! 2. Peace lily has a developed root system, white as jade, and is better for ornamental effect when cultivated in relatively clear containers.

3. Peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant; hydroponic plants can also bloom indoors in semi-shade.

4. When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer, some old leaves will initially turn yellow and should be removed in time, and the water should be changed daily; after one week, reduce the frequency of water changes.

Coleus

1. For hydroponic coleus, it is advisable to cut a stem segment with 5-8 leaves from the plant. After inserting it into water, at a water temperature of 15-28 degrees, roots generally can sprout in 10-15 days, and it can be planted in an exquisite vase. Coleus leaves are brilliant and are a good decorative flower. But note that when growing hydroponically, do not add too much fertilizer, to avoid the leaves turning green!

2. To maintain the brightness of the leaves, it needs to be placed in a brightly lit place. If light is insufficient, the leaf color will become dull and lose its luster.

3. Use the pinching method to control height, promote branching, prevent it from producing inflorescences, and keep the plant full and compact.

Lucky bamboo

1. It is one of the most suitable flowers for hydroponics, widely planted in countless households. Grown by the water-cutting method, it roots extremely easily, and maintenance and management are relatively extensive. At a temperature of 18-28 degrees, it remains in a growth state all year round.

2. When growing established plants hydroponically by the root-washing method, you can see that the original soil-cultivated roots are orange-red, but when grown hydroponically, the roots that emerge are indeed milky white. Red and white set each other off beautifully. Lucky bamboo is elegant and fresh, evergreen all year round, and carries the meaning of bamboo bringing peace and wealth and good fortune, and is deeply loved by people.

Alocasia

1. Small seedlings sprouting from the plant are easiest to grow and survive. In the early stage of hydroponics, pay attention to changing the water and washing the roots every day. Alocasia is one of the fastest-rooting flowers in hydroponic flowers. New water roots can grow in about 7-10 days.

2. The sap in the stems and leaves of Alocasia is toxic. Contact with the skin will cause skin itching and redness and swelling. It should be rinsed with clear water in time, and care should be taken not to let it enter the mouth.

3. Alocasia has a unique posture and beautiful leaf shape, and is an excellent accent for a desk!

Pothos

1. Pothos is very suitable for hydroponic cultivation. Both the water-cutting method and the root-washing method easily obtain ideal cultivated plants. Under hydroponic conditions, new roots can sprout in about 15-20 days.

2. Put the aerial roots into the water as well; the aerial roots can also play the role of nutrient roots, absorbing water and nutrients.

3. During the growth period, spraying diluted special hydroponic fertilizer on the leaf surface will make the leaves even more brilliant.

4. Pothos branches and vines are soft and graceful, with mottled leaf color. Small plants can also be grown in wall-mounted containers, letting them slant and droop like a green decorative curtain, fresh and elegant.

Snake plant

1. For home hydroponic planting of snake plant, it is best to choose the golden-edged snake plant with yellow leaf margins, for ornamental value in hydroponic planting. At a water temperature of 20 degrees, new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. Snake plant roots are loose and sparse and should not be pruned. Snake plant has beautiful leaf color, and its arrow-like leaf shape is upright and upward, full of a noble temperament, with strong adaptability, and can be used for green decoration in living rooms, studies, and even places with dim light.

Parlor palm

1. Choose small- to medium-sized soil-cultivated plants and convert them to hydroponics by the root-washing method.

2. Parlor palm roots are slender and underdeveloped, and new roots sprout slowly in a hydroponic environment, but old roots are firm and not easy to rot. Generally no pruning is done to the root system.

Broadleaf lady palm

1. For home hydroponics, it is advisable to choose small- to medium-sized plants and plant them by the root-washing method.

2. It should be sparse rather than dense; cultivating 2-3 branches per container is enough to show its elegant and serene temperament.

3. Broadleaf lady palm roots are dense in texture and elastic, and adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment. However, during hydroponics, new roots are not easy to sprout, and it may even not grow new roots for several months of hydroponics, but this does not hinder its growth.

Spider plant

1. For hydroponic spider plant, it is best to choose plantlets growing on runners [stolons] and plant their aerial roots, because the aerial roots on the runners are very suitable for the hydroponic environment and are easy to manage. Roots can sprout in about 5 days of water culture.

2. When growing spider plant hydroponically by the root-washing method or division method, the original thick fleshy roots will rot. You must change the water every day, clean the roots, and remove rotten roots. In about 25-30 days, new roots can grow from the root crown area, and the old roots gradually adapt to the hydroponic environment and no longer rot. At this time, nutrient solution can be used for cultivation.

3. When growing spider plant hydroponically, it is advisable to choose green-leaf varieties; operating with silver-striped spider plant is relatively difficult.

Liking is a faint love, love is a deep liking! ^_^

Green emperor

1. When growing by the water-cutting method, it is advisable to cut the upper branch of the stem and insert the aerial roots into the water as well. New roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. For home hydroponics of green emperor, it is advisable to use small plants and often spray water on the plant surface to keep the leaves fresh.

3. Green emperor has thick, sturdy stems. Taking advantage of this characteristic, upright cultivation gives a better ornamental effect. Also give it an appropriate source of diffused light.

Philodendron

1. For hydroponic philodendron, also choose small seedlings; the root-washing method can be used.

2. Often spray water on the leaf surface, and use a wet cloth to wipe away dust on the leaf surface to keep the leaves fresh.

3. Philodendron has uniquely shaped leaves and is an excellent choice for home decoration.

Chinese evergreen

1. Cut an appropriately long upper branch, wash off the bleeding sap, and plant it using the water propagation method. Roots will form in about 20 days at a water temperature of 25°C. 2. Use the root-washing method to convert an established soil-grown plant to water culture; root rot generally will not occur. However, it should be grown in a low-concentration nutrient solution. 3. Water culture of Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) has a long history in China. In the Guangdong area, growing it in glass bottles filled with water is quite common. Water culture is convenient, clean and hygienic, and has a special charm of its own.

Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)

1. Monstera adapts very well to water culture; soil-grown plants can be converted to water culture by the root-washing method in any season of the year.

2. When propagating in water, keep the complete aerial roots on the branch and insert the aerial roots into the water together with it; the aerial roots can turn into feeding roots and also support the plant.

3. Monstera has large leaves and thick, sturdy stems, so when growing it in water, choose a thick, substantial container to prevent it from toppling over.

4. Regularly use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to mist the leaf surface, increasing the ambient humidity, which is beneficial to the plant's growth.

Arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum)

1. Using the root-washing method to plant established specimens is not restricted by season; for water propagation, as long as the plant has aerial roots, it can be done in any season of the year.

2. It is easy to manage and grows quickly, so the plants should be renewed frequently; cut the upper branches from overgrown plants and grow them separately, and new roots will form in about 10 days. Axillary buds on the old stems will also sprout quickly.

3. For water-cultured arrowhead vine, it is best to choose small plants of the brightly coloured 'White Butterfly', 'Pink Butterfly' and silver-leaved cultivars for upright cultivation, because their leaf colour is brilliant and their shape resembles a butterfly, giving them considerable ornamental value.

Earth star (Cryptanthus)

After flowering, offsets can be used for water culture. When separating the offsets they should not be too small; they can be twisted off by hand, the base trimmed flat, and several leaves near the base peeled off, then placed in a container so that they touch the water surface; in a shaded spot at 20°C, they will root in 2-3 weeks. Potted plants can also be washed free of soil and grown in water, but rooting is slower, taking about a month or more and producing fewer roots. The nutrient solution should have a pH between 4 and 5. The earth star is small and dainty with bright colours, making it an excellent desk ornament.

Tulip

For water-cultured tulips, choose varieties according to when you need them to flower, so as to ensure the tulips' freshness and beauty. Next is temperature control. From bulb sprouting to flowering, there are 3 management stages: the sprouting stage, the vegetative growth stage and the flowering stage.

1. Sprouting stage management: Fill the pot containing the bulbs with water (ordinary household water will do) so that the base of the bulbs is immersed in the water. Place the pot in a bright spot indoors (preferably on a windowsill), keep the room temperature at 13°C, and do not let the temperature fluctuate too much; roots and shoots will appear in 4-7 days, entering the vegetative growth stage. Change the water every three days, and once a week after flower buds appear. The relationship between the number of days after planting the bulbs and the number that sprout is as follows:

Days after planting the bulbs 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Number sprouted 0 0 0 15 28 39 48

2. Vegetative growth stage management: During this stage, as the growth amount and growth rate of roots, stems and leaves increase, a large amount of water is needed; keep the water level in the pot so that the roots are constantly soaking in water, and control the growing temperature at 15°C-18°C. The temperature must not be too high, otherwise the plant will grow leggy, with thin, long stems, spoiling its appearance. Because plants are phototropic, turn the pot frequently so that the stems grow upright rather than leaning; after 2-3 weeks of growth, when the number of leaves reaches 3-4, an oval flower bud will appear at the tip of the stem, and the plant then enters the flowering stage.

3. Flowering stage management: After the bud appears, the temperature can still be kept at 15°C-18°C; in 5-7 days the bud gradually opens and the flower shows its brilliant colour. After the flower opens, the pot can be moved to a cool spot indoors to prolong the flowering period; generally a flower can remain open for 2-3 weeks.

Wax flower (Hoya) with exposed roots

Wax flower is fragrant, beautifully coloured and long-blooming, making it excellent material for flower arranging.

Wax flower has traditionally been grown in soil. Now, through trials of exposed-root water culture, it has the following features: (1) labour-saving; (2) hygienic; (3) few pests and diseases; (4) simple management; (5) long flowering period; (6) you can enjoy the roots and leaves as well as the flowers.

The method of exposed-root water culture is:

(1) Plant material preparation: Dig up the soil-grown wax flower, wash it clean with clear water, cut off dead leaves and leaves damaged by pests or disease, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a drainage hole), put a few attractive river stones in the bottom, move the prepared wax flower seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clear water and flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a shady spot.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clear water once a day; after a day or two, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the wax flower, half a millilitre each time, and thereafter inject once a month to promote growth, flowering and a longer flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can flower. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can flower again.

Images are being searched for online~~~~Images are so hard to find, how frustrating~

Water culture method for winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum)

1. Timing of water propagation: Water propagation can be done in any season; in winter the container can be placed indoors in a sunny spot, and in summer take care to shade it and prevent exposure to fierce sunlight. During water propagation the water temperature should be kept at 15°C to 20°C; cuttings root quickly and the survival rate is high.

2. Cuttings for water propagation: Choose vigorously growing branches of the current year with plump buds; the cuttings are generally 8 cm to 12 cm long and can retain 2 to 4 nodes. Cut about 2 mm below the lowest node, tie them in bundles of 10, and if there are too many leaves on the upper part of the cutting, remove some as appropriate to aid rooting.

3. Container for water propagation: Use a basin with a fairly wide mouth or a shallow wide-mouthed bottle, etc.; it must be washed clean before use.

4. Water propagation method: Fill the container with clean rainwater, river water or tap water to a depth of 8 cm to 10 cm, then arrange the bundled cuttings in the water with the submerged depth at 4 cm to 6 cm, and place the container outdoors in a ventilated, semi-shaded spot. The water quality must be kept fresh and clean; change the water once every 3 to 5 days. Generally, about 20 days after insertion, tumour-like callus tissue forms, and in 35 to 40 days fibrous roots grow out.

5. Timely planting: When the fibrous roots have grown to 3 cm to 5 cm, they must be planted promptly; be careful during handling not to damage the roots. Generally, after planting, shade them for about 10 days, after which normal management can begin.

Clivia (Clivia miniata)

Container selection

To grow clivia in water, you must first choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is best; if you are growing just one seedling, a glass jar is enough. If you want to grow many in water, you can make a metal mesh with 1 cm openings from thin wire, and make a glass water-culture box slightly smaller than the metal mesh, or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the water-culture box with the metal mesh and insert the clivia seedlings through the mesh into the nutrient solution, with the depth of the roots in the solution not exceeding the pseudobulb at the base of the roots.

Nutrient solution preparation

Nutrient solutions come in inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea 1 g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g; once all 5 inorganic salts are assembled, dissolve them in 1000 g of water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 g of roasted hemp seed meal, 100 g of bone meal (made from fresh unsalted bones), 150 g of soybean cake meal, 50 g of roasted sesame meal, then dissolved in 1000 g of water. Comparing the two nutrient solutions, the organic fertiliser is rich in components but its nutrient content is not high; the inorganic fertiliser has relatively simple components but strong fertiliser effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertiliser once a week and the organic fertiliser once every 5 days.

Water to use

For water-cultured clivia, you must not use tap water directly; you must use water that has been "aged". So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that bleaching powder and other chlorides harmful to clivia roots settle out. In "aged" water, the sediment changes from strip-like to clump-like in appearance, and the water is best when it is green in colour. After the water is "aged", the level must cover the roots but must not cover the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, the clivia cannot get an adequate water supply; if the water level is too deep (covering the pseudobulb), it will cause the roots to rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality; if the roots turn somewhat yellow or black, it means the water is both low in oxygen and low in nutrients, and the water must be changed immediately.

Air, sunlight, temperature

Whether the aeration of the roots of water-cultured clivia can be handled well is the key to success or failure in water culture. After a period of cultivation, a layer of green algae grows on the roots of water-cultured clivia; when the algae layer is too thick it seriously affects root respiration and also corrodes the nutrient solution. At this point, use a soft, clean brush to gently brush off the algae layer on the roots (there is no need to brush it very clean, since a small amount of algae on the roots has little effect). In addition, frequently check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The way to check is: put two or three small fish into the water-culture box; if the small fish swim about freely in the water, it means the water is not short of oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it means the water is short of oxygen. Once a shortage of oxygen is found, oxygen must be replenished, and there are two ways: one is to change the water, the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight, clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so pay attention to light; especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive diffused light. In addition, because clivia leaves are phototropic, make sure the leaves receive light evenly, otherwise the leaves will differ in length and the growth direction will be uneven front and back; generally adjust the light angle once every two or three days. In terms of temperature, the ambient temperature for adult clivia is best at 11°C-25°C, while seedlings can take slightly higher temperatures, 20°C-35°C being fine. When growing clivia in water, master the day-night temperature difference: in winter keep it at about 20°C during the day and not below 15°C at night.

Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis)

After the Chinese rose flowers fade, cut off the spent flowers and let the flowering shoots grow for a few days, until the first axillary bud on the shoot has grown thicker and sturdier and accumulated nutrients; then cut a cutting with 3 nodes, remove the lower leaf stalk, use a sharp blade to cut the back of the lowest bud into a slant, and immediately insert it into a prepared bottle filled with clean water, with the cutting inserted one third into the water. To reduce water evaporation from the leaves, some leaves can be trimmed off. In the dark the cut end easily grows new roots, so use a brown bottle. If there is no brown one, wrap the outside of the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. Place the bottle on a south-facing windowsill, but do not expose it to direct sunlight.

When the air temperature is fairly high, change the water once a week. At 15-25°C it takes only about 20 days to grow roots; once the young roots reach 1-2 cm long, the cutting can be transplanted into a pot. Because the young roots grew in water, to help them adapt to the environment, water once a day at first when transplanting, then gradually reduce. After shading for a week, it can receive sunlight morning and evening, and will then survive.

The advantages of water propagation are: the method is simple, the survival rate is high, it is not restricted by time, and cuttings can be taken as soon as the flowers fade.

Azalea (Rhododendron)

The characteristic of soilless culture is that artificially made substrate replaces soil. The Hunan Forestry Science Institute used a solid substrate for soilless culture of azaleas and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultured plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowers, large flower diameter and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labour, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Substrate preparation

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand and 1 part coal cinder, mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilise the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, stir it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it several times with clear water; after drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertiliser solution, cover again with plastic film for a month, and then it can be used for potting.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Azaleas have fairly strict fertiliser requirements. During the growing period, apply light fertiliser frequently. According to trials, using agricultural compound fertiliser as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH at around 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertiliser can achieve good results.

Preparation of major elements: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertiliser and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 litre of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 litre of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace-element stock solution to 1 litre of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertiliser: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 litre of water.

3. Water and fertiliser management

Because the substrate drains well and has good aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally more than for soil culture, just enough to keep the substrate moist; at this time the plant is budding and leaf buds are sprouting, so fertiliser demand is fairly high, and a full-strength nutrient solution is applied about every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertiliser about every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high; besides daily watering, sprinkle water on the leaves in the evening. At this time fertiliser demand is also high, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertiliser once, to make the new branches sturdy and aid flower bud differentiation. After the hottest part of summer begins, take care to keep the substrate moist and sprinkle water on the leaves; the fertiliser amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution about every 20 days. After the autumn cool sets in, the fertiliser amount can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about every half month and spraying foliar fertiliser 1-2 times, to promote robust growth of the flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertiliser should not be applied; just water appropriately according to how dry or moist the substrate is. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Water culture of hyacinth

Hyacinth is a plant of the lily family and also a bulbous flower. The hyacinth inflorescence is full, the colours are varied, and the roots are pure white.

Key points of water culture:

(1) Choose a container whose mouth can hold the bulb in place, preferably a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom, with transparent glass being better. Some household items such as stemmed glasses and wine bottles can also be used, as can wide-mouthed containers.

(2) The water temperature should not be high; below 15°C is better.

(3) Place the bulb on the neck of the bottle; after roots begin to form, the water level can be lowered until the roots just touch the water surface, so that the roots can fully absorb oxygen and root growth is promoted. After the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth to let the bulb develop further.

(4) In winter, move the container to a place with ample sunlight to encourage large, robust flowers.

(5) Several hyacinth plants can also be planted in a fish tank, with sand as the substrate and supplemented with shade-loving ferns, forming a small scene full of wild charm that is also very unique.

Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii)

A perennial herb of the Asteraceae family, with fairly large flower diameter, rich colours and blooming all year round. It likes a warm, sunny and well-ventilated environment; it is a semi-hardy flower and likes fertile, loose soil. Gerbera is an excellent cut-flower variety, lasting a long time in water and highly ornamental, and it is also good at absorbing formaldehyde.

Growing these plants in water generally requires no special management. Any container of a certain volume that allows the roots to spread can be used, and a glass container with an open mouth is more favourable for maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid letting the leaves sink into the water, so as to prevent rot; place it under suitable light conditions and it will soon root; when the water runs low, add some water to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plant, clean the container and refill with water. Generally, for water-cultured plants, change the water once every three days and apply nutrient solution once, with the ratio and amount of nutrient solution depending on the size of the plant.

Asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus)

Aliases: cloud-leaf bamboo, flat grass

Family and genus: Liliaceae, Asparagus

Morphological features: The asparagus fern has an elegant plant shape, with slender, beautiful leaf-like branches shaped like cloud layers, like bamboo but not bamboo, with a refined and free posture, and fleshy, pure white water roots. Paired with an attractive transparent container, it is both dignified and beautiful and appears noble and elegant, making it an excellent choice for water culture.

Growing habits: It likes warm, moist and semi-humid environments, with an optimum temperature of 15-25°C; the minimum winter temperature should not be below 5°C. It likes diffused light, dislikes direct strong light, and dislikes dry air.

Key points of water culture:

1) Material selection: Choose a soil-grown plant with a good plant shape and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off rotten roots, then plant it in a water-culture container, adding clear water up to one third to one half of the root system.

2) Care: At first, change the clear water once every 2-3 days, removing rotten roots promptly; after two weeks the root system has basically adapted to the environment and has grown water roots, after which change the clear water once every 5-6 days. When the plant shows strong growth vigour, switch to nutrient solution culture; the nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep, replenished about every 10 days in summer, and when the sediment in the nutrient solution increases, replace the nutrient solution, generally once every 1-2 months. In summer avoid direct strong light; in winter place it in a warm spot with fairly strong light.

Keep the room temperature above 5°C; when the air is dry, frequently mist the leaves to maintain fairly high air humidity and keep the branches and leaves clean.

Ivy (Hedera helix)

Alias: English ivy

Family and genus: Araliaceae, Hedera

Because of its dense vines and leaves, it is the most ideal material for vertical greening of indoor and outdoor walls, and is also an excellent ground-cover plant; it is suitable for letting it climb on buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock faces and shaded ground, and the demand for potted plants is increasing day by day.

(1) Morphological features and varieties

An evergreen climbing vine, with slender, soft branches and vines and aerial roots. The tip of the vine grows in a spiral and can climb onto other objects. Leaves alternate, leathery, dark green, with long stalks; leaves on vegetative branches are triangular-ovate, entire or with 3 shallow lobes, while leaves on flowering branches are ovate to rhombic. Racemose inflorescence, small spherical flowers, pale yellow. Drupe spherical, black.

Commonly cultivated plants in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy, variegated ivy (CV. discolor), golden heart ivy, silver-edged ivy (CV. silver queen), etc.

(2) Ecological habits

Ivy is a typical shade-loving vine, but can also grow in full light; it grows well under warm, humid climatic conditions and is not cold-tolerant. It is not strict about soil, liking moist, loose, fertile soil, and is not salt-alkali tolerant.

(3) Propagation method

The nodes of ivy can root naturally in humid air, and once they touch the ground they will naturally enter the soil, so it is mostly propagated by cuttings, using vegetative branches as cuttings; after insertion, shade promptly, keep air humidity high, and the bed soil should not be too wet; it roots in about 20 days. (4) Cultivation techniques

Ivy cultivation and management are simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in a place with moist soil and air circulation. Transplanting can be done in early autumn or late spring; after planting, pruning is needed to promote branching. In the south it is mostly planted in shaded spots in gardens, letting it creep naturally on the ground or on rockeries. In the north it is mostly potted; potted plants can be tied to various supports and trained into shape, and kept under a shade shed in summer with less watering, otherwise stem rot easily occurs. If this disease occurs, the diseased plants should be separated from the healthy ones, and carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed alternately. In winter, move it into a greenhouse to overwinter; indoors, keep the air humidity and do not let it get too dry, but the pot soil should not be too wet. Water-cultured ivy can use a whole plant or a cutting; it is best done in spring and autumn. After the root system has grown roots in the cutting bed, it can be put into a planting basket for root induction and transformation. Once well cultivated, ivy is very easy to care for and also clean and hygienic, making it an excellent item for display at home. For a well-cultivated plant, you can use the general-purpose nutrient solution on the market or a foliage-plant nutrient solution; the nutrient solution concentration is generally 1/4 of the original formula.

(4) Other effects

Ivy is not only a very good greening plant; the whole herb can also be used as medicine, with effects of dispelling wind, promoting diuresis, invigorating blood and reducing swelling, and it is mainly used for rheumatic joint pain, back pain and traumatic injuries. Crushing it to extract the juice or decocting it in water to wash the affected area can treat sores, swellings and toxic swellings, urticaria and eczema.

Euphorbia (Euphorbia neriifolia)

Euphorbia is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, cut vigorous growing branches as cuttings; the wound of the freshly cut stem segment will exude white milky sap, which can be dabbed with plant ash or charcoal powder to stop the sap from flowing out, then leave it to dry in a cool, dry place for 3 to 4 days, and insert it once the cut has shrunk. Euphorbia has no close kinship with aquatic plants; when growing it in water, the principle of contamination-free cultivation must be strictly followed, and new nutrient solution must be changed regularly to increase dissolved oxygen. In winter the temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will drop its leaves. The nutrient solution concentration must not be too high, and it must not be kept in too much shade, otherwise it will revert to type, and the euphorbia will grow the columnar fleshy stems of the original species, spoiling the ornamental effect; in severe cases it causes root rot and death. The white sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is toxic. In particular, it must not get into the eyes; take care not to let children accidentally get it into their mouths or eyes.

Dracaena (Dracaena fragrans)

Dracaena adapts strongly to light; in the north it can be displayed continuously for more than a month in a dark room, and can be displayed long-term for viewing in a bright room. It likes high temperature, high humidity and a well-ventilated environment, prefers light but is also shade-tolerant, yet fears fierce sunlight and dislikes dryness and drought; it likes loose, well-drained sandy soil. The optimum growing temperature is 20°C to 28°C; below 13°C in winter, take precautions against cold damage causing the leaves to wither, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Dracaena is mostly propagated by cuttings. In the north, April to June is the best season. Large columnar dracaena stems, having grown for many years, themselves contain nutrients and water, and the latent buds on the stem have a strong regenerative capacity; for decorative needs, they can be sawn into stem segments of different lengths for planting, but the tail end of the stem segment should be sealed with paraffin to prevent water loss or disease infection, which is especially important in the dry season in the north. Or choose a mature, vigorous stem (not yet lignified), cut off the leafy stem top, cut the upper leaves in half, peel off the lower leaves to expose the stem nodes, each segment about 10 cm to 20 cm, and insert it into coarse sand, fine wood shavings or humus soil 3 cm to 4 cm deep; place the cutting bed in a semi-shaded environment, maintain high humidity, receive 50% to 60% sunlight, at a temperature of 25°C to 30°C, and in about 20 to 30 days it will root and sprout, then be potted. When stem segments are used as cuttings, rooting is slower, sometimes taking 2 to 3 months to produce new shoots and roots. Water propagation and air layering can also be used, but must be carried out at above 25°C. For water propagation, immerse 1/3 of the stem cutting in water, change the water once every 3 to 5 days, and add a small amount of carbendazim aqueous solution for antisepsis and disinfection, which can promote faster rooting and sprouting.

Agave (Agave)

Common varieties of agave include: golden-edged agave, golden-hearted agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave and narrow-leaved agave, etc.

It is robust, likes sunlight and is not shade-tolerant. It is slightly cold-tolerant; it can be grown in the open at temperatures above 5°C. Adult agave suffers only mild frost damage to the leaves at a low temperature of -5°C; at -13°C the above-ground parts freeze and rot, but the underground stem does not die and can sprout and grow leaves normally the next year. It has strong drought tolerance. It likes well-drained, fertile and moist sandy loam. In its place of origin it generally takes several decades to flower, and the mother plant dies after flowering; in the Nanjing area it does not flower. Cross-pollination is required for it to set seed.

Agave can be grown in water in any season in a heated environment. When growing it in water, all its roots must be removed, disinfected with a disinfectant solution, and then soaked in rooting solution for a certain time. During water culture, watch out for cabbage worms eating its leaves and heart, which would cause it to lose commercial and ornamental value; if insects are found they can be caught by hand or killed with insecticide.

For water culture to view the roots, frequently take it to a sunny place; do not leave it in a dark place for a long time, as the leaves will easily turn pale and become thin, losing their ornamental value. In winter take care to keep it warm; during the day put it by a window in a sunny spot, and at night, in a room without heating, put the glass bottle in a plastic or cardboard box. If the leaves turn yellow or droop listlessly, it may be frost damage; at this point give it some warming measures. Then place it far from doors and windows, and remember not to put it in a spot facing north. When changing the water in winter, use warm water of 12°C to 18°C. Agave is highly resistant, and as long as you pay attention to management it can overwinter safely.

Money tree (Pachira aquatica)

The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Sea Islands area. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in our country. For home cultivation, according to its living habits of liking high temperature and high humidity and not tolerating frost, cold or dryness, focus on the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperature, humidity and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, during care and management it should be placed in a sunny spot indoors. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves are phototropic, the whole branches and leaves will become distorted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray the leaves once with a spray bottle; this not only aids photosynthesis but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.

Water culture method for periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus)

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Periwinkle is native to eastern Africa. It likes a warm, slightly dry and sunny environment. The optimum growing temperature is 18-24°C from March to July and 13-18°C from September to March of the following year; the winter temperature should not be below 10°C.

Periwinkle dislikes moisture and fears waterlogging; the pot soil should not be watered too much, as excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry, otherwise they are very likely to suffer cold damage. For open-field cultivation, during midsummer rainstorms take care to drain promptly to avoid waterlogging causing the whole patch to die.

Periwinkle is a light-loving plant; during the growing period it must have ample sunlight, and then the leaves are dark green and glossy and the flowers are brightly coloured. If grown in shade for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and drop.

It is suited to fertile and well-drained loam soil, and tolerates poor soil, but must not be grown in slightly alkaline soil. In compacted, poorly aerated clay soil, the result is poor plant growth, yellowing leaves and no flowering.

Propagation method: Commonly by sowing, cuttings and propagation.

Cultivation and management: When the seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. When the seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and pinch 2 more times afterwards, to encourage more branching and more flowers. During the growing period, fertilise once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special pot-flower fertiliser. For pot cultivation or planting out in flower beds from pots, it flowers from late May to early November, lasting more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time, so that the spent flowers do not go mouldy and affect plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed-collecting period for periwinkle; collect as they ripen, so as not to lose the seeds.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust and root-knot nematodes are common. For leaf rot, spray with 500 times dilution of 65% zineb wettable powder. For rust, spray with 2000 times dilution of 50% carboxin wettable powder. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 50 times dilution of 80% dibromochloropropane emulsifiable concentrate for control.

Water culture method for Euphorbia tirucalli

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular spurge. Native to South Africa.

Features

Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stem is upright, with 3-4 ridges, dark green, with beautiful irregular grey-green markings in the centre of the stem. The ridge edges have tooth-like protrusions, and at the protrusions grow obovate leaves. It has many branches, all growing vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains an irritating milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli has a strange shape and is full of exotic flavour, making it an excellent item for greening and decorating a few tables.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade, but requires ample diffused light. It can tolerate a low temperature of 5°C. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and dislikes long-term moisture, yet it is very well suited to the conditions of water culture.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm long from the mother plant as cuttings. The cut cuttings should not be planted immediately, as doing so will cause the cut surface to rot and lead to failure of the cutting. The cut surface of Euphorbia tirucalli exudes milky sap, so when cutting, dip the cut end in plant ash or charcoal powder and let it dry in a shady place for several days. Once the cut surface is fully dry, proceed with planting, and it will root very easily.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: If mealybugs appear, besides moving the plant to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can use a toothbrush to brush off the mealybugs and then spray with a 250-fold laundry detergent solution to kill them.

2: The white milky sap in the stems of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Be especially careful not to get it in your eyes.

How to obtain materials for hydroponics

Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days, and only after the cut surface is dry should they be placed in water, otherwise they will rot. After one month, new roots will grow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Choosing cyclamen and container: Select 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and ready to bloom. It is best to use soilless growing media such as perlite, vermiculite, and wood shavings for cultivation, as after a change of environment the roots will not be damaged, the plant will not need to recover from transplanting, and it will adapt quickly. Hydroponic containers are simple and economical, and in daily life can serve to reuse waste. Any container that can hold water will do, such as fish tanks, teacups, beverage cartons, wine bottles, and vases; transparent containers are best, as the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, and color must all be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so as to display the exquisite, translucent, crystal-clear, and elegant charm of hydroponic cyclamen.

Hydroponic timing and method: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the hydroponic period is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from its pot, wash the growing medium adhering to the roots with 20°C warm water, being careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water level even with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor location and regularly add water and nutrient solution. After two to three months of hydroponics, once the flowers fade, take the plant out and plant it in growing medium to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality, not cloudy, without sediment, and containing various trace elements essential for plants. During the entire hydroponic period, there is no need to change the water. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and it easily becomes cloudy and forms sediment, so it must be changed every few days; try not to use it. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

; Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The hydroponic container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill with ample indoor sunlight, and not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with a maximum not exceeding 25°C and a minimum not below 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: During the flowering period, hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml of 1:100 diluted flowering plant nutrient solution per plant, and mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, or small flowers are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate amount of additional nutrient solution may be added as needed.