How is orange peel used to grow flowers and prevent pests?
Orange peel, this is something many people know about, this orange peel is super useful, let's see how orange peel is used to grow flowers: composting, citrus peel is a very good nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, adding them to the compost can very effectively increase the nutrients of the compost soil. Cut the citrus peel into small pieces, the smaller the better
Orange peel, this is something many people know about, this orange peel is super useful, let's see how orange peel is used to grow flowers:
1. Composting
Citrus peel is a very good nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, adding them to the compost can very effectively increase the nutrients of the compost soil. Cut the citrus peel into small pieces, the smaller the better, put them into the compost material and mix well!
2. Repelling pests
Citrus peel is a very good choice! Tear the citrus peel into small pieces and bury them shallowly in the soil. It is only effective against some crawling insects, and it is also quite convenient.
Wiping the leaves of plants with citrus peel can make the plants healthier, and will also stop pests from damaging the plants. Once a month is enough
That is all for the tips on using orange peel to grow flowers, this orange peel really has such magical effects.
Don't throw away the leftover fruit peel after eating! It is so useful for growing flowers
Pomelo peel
First: Deodorizing
When using kitchen waste such as fish guts to make compost, you can throw some pomelo peel in, which can play a deodorizing role. Huahua herself threw in a lot of pomelo peel when making compost, and not only was there no bad smell, there was even a faint fresh fragrance~
Second: Composting
Pomelo peel is actually also a very natural fertilizer~ However, pomelo peel cannot be buried directly into the soil. The process of pomelo peel rotting in the soil is actually a kind of fermentation, and the heat produced by fermentation will burn the plant's roots.
▼Prepare a large plastic bucket
▼Cut the pomelo peel into pieces
▼Spread a layer of soil at the very bottom, then spread a layer of pomelo peel, and repeat this until the last layer, then cover it well with soil.
Note:
1. Adding water For this step, it depends on everyone's own ideas, but Huahua has one thing to remind everyone: adding water will increase the speed of fermentation, but it will smell, it will smell, it will really smell. Without adding water, the smell will be less, but the fermentation time will be correspondingly longer~
2. Ventilate regularly Every once in a while, open the bottle cap to let it breathe, and after doing this a few times, there will not be much bad smell left.
Pineapple
First: Making enzymes
Preparation: 4.5-liter mineral water bottle, pineapple peel, brown sugar, water
Ratio: 1 jin brown sugar + 3 jin fruit peel + 10 jin water + ferment for 3 months
Container: 4.5-liter mineral water bottle
▼
▼Put the fruit peel + brown sugar into the bucket and add water
▼Place it in a ventilated and cool place to ferment for 3 months. For the first 10 days, open it once a day to release gas.
Note:
1. When used as flower fertilizer, dilute about 1000 times
2. Other fruit peels can also be used to make enzymes with this method~
Second: Making potted plants
▼After buying a pineapple, choose one with a complete shape and large size, and cut off the crown.
▼Peel off the leaves at the bottom of the pineapple crown, and place it in a cool and ventilated environment to let the cut dry.
▼Insert toothpicks, soak the bottom in water, and change the water every day!
▼Wait until roots grow from the bottom.
▼Transplant it into a flowerpot, keep enough light, and when the roots are long enough, transplant it into a flowerpot.
▼Then just wait for a big pineapple to grow!
Third: Use as a vase
Sugarcane bagasse
First: Lining the bottom of the pot
Dry the chewed sugarcane bagasse in the sun, then line the bottom of a plastic pot with it, which can increase the air permeability of the soil.
Second point: Composting
Mix sugarcane bagasse with garden soil at a ratio of 1:1, then add about 5% soybean meal or crushed soybean cake, mix well, spray water to moisten, then add water. The amount of water should be such that when you squeeze the soil tightly with your hand it forms a ball but does not stick to your hand. Then wait for it to ferment for 3~4 weeks. Note that in winter you should cover it with plastic sheeting~ otherwise, the low temperature will make fermentation very slow~
When the sugarcane bagasse and soybean meal have turned gray-black, it has fermented well~ and is ready for planting~ However, during fermentation, avoid being rained on~ After fermentation is complete, spread it out and expose it to the sun, and store it for later use after it dries.
Grape peel
First point: Improving soil acidity and alkalinity
Everyone should be familiar with winemaking, and the grape residue left after making wine is strongly acidic, rich in nutrients, and also has a soil sterilizing effect~ Mix the grape residue with soil, ferment for about half a month, and it is a very good material for growing camellias and azaleas!
Second point: Watering flowers
Put the grape residue in a large vat, dilute it with water, and there is no need to ferment it. It is also quite good for watering flowers normally~
Or dilute the wine about 20 times and water the flowers once every half a month, which is also very good for the flowers~
Banana peel
First point: Composting
▼Prepare banana peels
▼Use scissors to cut the banana peels into pieces to make decomposition easier
▼Try to find a somewhat larger trash can. First put about 10 cm of flower soil at the bottom of the trash can, put an appropriate amount of chopped banana peel into the soil, then cover with a layer of soil, then put another layer of chopped banana peel, until it is full, then seal it well with soil.
The decomposed humus soil can be used directly to plant flowers, and can also be used as a top dressing fertilizer
In the same way, all kinds of fruit peels, kitchen leftovers, and leaves can all use this method to obtain fertilizer.
Second point: Watering flowers
Flower growers always worry because the plants they grow are not doing well. Many times it is because there are not enough trace elements in the flowerpot. They buy a bunch of nutrient solutions and spend a lot of money. Actually, at home we can use leftover banana peels to make our own flower nutrient solution.
▼Wash the plastic bottle clean, fill it with one-fifth water, and try to choose a somewhat larger bottle.
▼Chop the leftover banana peels and stuff them into the plastic bottle.
▼Squeeze the plastic bottle filled with banana peels flat, put the cap on, and then wait for the banana peels to rot and ferment. (The gas produced by fermentation will make the bottle very hard to open, so it needs to be squeezed flat.)
▼Put the bottle in the sun to expose it, to promote fermentation of the fruit peel. After fermentation is finished, mix the water in the bottle with some clean water and it can be used as flower nutrient solution.
Note:
1. Do not put metal items in the bottle.
2. The nutrient solution is best used only once a week, do not overdo the nutrients.
Watermelon peel
First point: Composting
▼First, you have to buy a watermelon, then eat it all up like below. Oh my, this picture, it even made Huahua crave it!
▼Scrape all the red flesh clean, you can scoop it out with a spoon~ Verified by Huahua, this method is very good.
▼As shown in the picture below, cut the watermelon peel into strips. Note, do not cut your little hands!
▼Then cut the watermelon peel crosswise, cutting the strips into cubes.
▼Put the cut watermelon peel into a bucket and put the lid on.
▼Put the bucket containing the watermelon peel in the sun to bake! Bake! Bake!
▼After 10~15 days, the watermelon peel will release water. This water can be used to water flowers. The remaining watermelon peel continues to be dried in the sun until no more water comes out. Finally, bury the remaining residue in the flowerpot as base fertilizer.
Note:
1. Note that during the sun-drying process, the watermelon peel will produce some gas, so occasionally you can open the lid to release the gas.
2. Orange peel removes odors. Watermelon peel fertilizer generally has no smell, but if you are a neat freak, you can put a few pieces of orange peel in with the watermelon peel to ferment together. This way it not only does not stink, but also has a slight fresh fragrance.
3. Add water to dilute. If flower friends are worried that the watermelon peel water will burn the flowers, they can add some water.
Orange peel
First: Deodorizing and composting
The effect is similar to pomelo peel, so the specific steps can also refer to the pomelo peel section~
Second: Pest prevention
The smell given off by orange peel and the juice of orange peel are both disliked by pests, so you can cut the orange peel into small pieces and bury them in the soil, or squeeze juice from the orange peel and water a circle around the plant, which can effectively isolate pests.
Of course, what it can prevent is not only pests, but also your pets!
Alright~
That is all for the fruits Huahua often eats~
If all flower friends have learned it
then go home and try doing it!
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge1. Benefits of home flower growing
1. Adding interest to life It makes life more full of vitality, benefits physical and mental health, cultivates noble sentiments, and inspires a feeling for life. Making friends through flowers brings great joy.
Flower-viewing seasons, one by one: enjoy flowers in spring, enjoy fragrance in summer, enjoy fruit in autumn, enjoy greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grades, one by one: enjoying with tea is best, enjoying with conversation is second, enjoying with wine is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards, one by one: color, fragrance, posture, charm.
2. Improving the living environment, implementing green environmental protection.
(1) Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90 g of carbon dioxide and releases 60 g of oxygen per day.
(2) Absorbing harmful gases
Absorbing formaldehyde, one by one: snake plant, dayflower, ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorbing benzene, one by one: ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorbing chlorine gas, one by one: orchid tree, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel nut, fan palm.
(3) The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and lilac can kill protists in 5 minutes.
(4) Regulating temperature
Green plants in urban greening areas can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight energy in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8°C, shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours, and vertical greening on walls can lower wall surface temperature by 5°C.
2. Home flower growing methods and commonly used plants
1. Courtyard flower growing
Combining trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combining deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combining foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combining ornamental value with practical value; fully developing three-dimensional space, with a fresh sense of seasonal changes in the scenery.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
(1) Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, crape myrtle, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
(2) Shrubs:
Gardenia, serissa, pyracantha, southern bamboo, wintersweet, Chinese rose, peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, winter daphne, hydrangea, hypericum, etc.
(3) Herbaceous plants:
Banana, inch plant, saxifrage, liriope
Iris, daylily, Chinese peony, hosta, red-hot poker, Dutch aster, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, rain lily, zephyr lily, canna, red wood sorrel, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermuda grass, stringy stonecrop, scallion, kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens.
Lotus, water lily, yu chan.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(4) Vines:
Rosa banksiae, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwi, morning glory, Maurandya, etc.
2. Balcony and indoor flower growing
Adapt to the characteristics of pot culture and select suitable varieties for planting. Master soil, fertilizer and water management to ensure safe overwintering and safe passing through summer. Take measures according to the characteristics of each plant so that they grow luxuriantly through the four seasons, with seasonal flowers appearing in their proper time. Arrange the rooms tastefully and raise the level of floral art to enrich daily life.
Plants suitable for growing on balconies and indoors:
(1) Foliage plants:
Spider plant, ivy, Tradescantia zebrina, Syngonium, Vinca major.
Rubber plant, small sago palm, Rhapis excelsa, Areca palm, Chamaedorea elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Croton, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Bambusa multiplex
Bromeliads, Marantaceae, ferns, Cyperus alternifolius
Pothos, Philodendron, Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema modestum, lucky bamboo, Pachira aquatica (money tree),
Caladium, Begonia maculata, etc.
(2) Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted crape myrtle, Daphne odora, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, Oxalis corymbosa, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, Ranunculus asiaticus.
Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, Gerbera, Begonia semperflorens, petunia, Tropaeolum majus, Pelargonium, Fuchsia, Impatiens walleriana, Impatiens hawkeri.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(3) Ornamental fruit plants:
Nandina domestica, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, calamondin.
Pyracantha, goji, small pomegranate.
Solanum pseudocapsicum, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
(4) Cacti and succulents
Cactus, Echinopsis, Schlumbergera, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid
Agave, Sansevieria, Beaucarnea recurvata (Agavaceae)
Lampranthus, Dorotheanthus, Glottiphyllum, Lithops (Aizoaceae)
Aeonium, Echeveria, Crassula ovata (jade plant), Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Sedum sarmentosum (Crassulaceae)
Aloe, Haworthia, Peperomia (Liliaceae)
Crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae)
Portulacaria afra (Portulacaceae)
(5) Vines
Honeysuckle, grape
Morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (Momordica charantia).
3. Home flower-growing management
Six essentials of flower growing: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1. Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It not only supports the plant root system for growth and development, but also provides the necessary nutrients, water and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil requirements
Fertile, harmless, loose, air-permeable, water-retentive, fertilizer-retentive.
(2) Potting soil materials
The potting soil materials for home flower growing, besides the generally commonly used soil, also use some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore, the meaning of potting soil is not limited to soil. Thus these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrates or media in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, vermicompost, cinder, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, wood shavings, charcoal, grass clippings, tree bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity
The acidity and alkalinity of soil affect the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Flowers such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid and bromeliads require a more acidic soil environment. Usually a pH value of about 5-6 is required. Therefore, the cultivation of these flowers must use mountain soil rich in humus (orchid soil) in order to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, ornamental pepper, pomegranate, grape and kiwi have a wide range of adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment with pH 6-8.
For soil with strong alkalinity, sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. The usual application rate of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil amount. For soil that is too acidic, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application rate of 35-70 grams per sq m of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for planting flowers in courtyards, all kinds of construction waste within 40 cm of the soil surface must be cleared away. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a depth of 60-80 cm. For heavy clay green land, coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material should be added to facilitate drainage and increase the air permeability and organic matter content of the soil layer.
The preparation of potting soil should be based on the requirements of the plants being grown, with attention to the air permeability, fertility and suitable soil acidity of the soil. Usually, fertile garden soil (heated soil) is mixed with rice husk ash in a ratio of 2-3:1 to make a cultivation substrate. However, for growing flowers in cities, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. Then urban household waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones and shrimp shells can be collected, finely cut or crushed, added with rice washing water, placed in old jars or plastic bags, and after a long period of fermentation and decomposition, dried in the sun, sieved, and mixed with some raw soil (soil excavated from road and infrastructure construction) to prepare potting nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, composted, and reused.
Strict potting soil quality requires disinfection. For home flower growing, the simple sunlight disinfection method can be used, that is, in summer spread the soil flat on a concrete slab, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days. This can kill a large number of fungal spores, mycelium, pest eggs and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2. Fertilization
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the required nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount can make flowers grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and abundant blooms.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth
Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water)
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer - fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients are gradually decomposed. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect lasts a long time. It can also improve the soil and benefit root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer) - fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, cleanliness and sanitation, but its nutrient composition is single, and long-term use easily causes soil compaction. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as processed compound fertilizers containing the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting - use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. for composting. To prevent odors from escaping, cover with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation - use small-mouthed waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and blended oil bottles as containers, put in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells and other animal scraps, and after fermentation and decomposition make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Bad soybeans can also be soaked and fermented for preparation. When preparing bottle-made organic fertilizer, note: (1) The amount of fish scraps added is about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity, and add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
(1) To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter blended oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before putting in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and sun-dried old orange peel can also be used.
(3) After preparation, after the bottle cap is tightened, it must be backed off 2-3 threads to leave an air gap. Otherwise, due to fermentation inside the bottle, gas expansion may blow off the cap, causing an unbearable situation of odors spilling everywhere.
(4) Bottle-made organic fertilizer requires 4-5 months of fermentation in summer, and generally about one year to fully decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean shells - green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrient elements, are easy to collect in cities, and are clean and sanitary. During preparation, the pods can be dried in the sun, crushed and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potting culture soil, and can also be applied as base fertilizer when repotting potted flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilization
(1) Base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer - mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long fertilizer effect. It is used for the whole annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the flowerpot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried livestock and poultry manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after pressing small mill sesame oil can be used and has good fertilizer effect. Some also put fried or cooked soybeans into the middle and lower layers of potted flowers as supplementary base fertilizer.
Topdressing - use inorganic fertilizers with quick effects that can be quickly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizers, and add them when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization - also called root-outside topdressing. After chemical fertilizer is dissolved in water, it is sprayed on the plants so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the back of the leaves. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick effect. When applying, note: the concentration of chemical fertilizer should be kept at 0.1-0.2%; too concentrated will cause harm to plants. For flowers grown on balconies and in the open air, the time of fertilizer spraying should be in the evening to prevent strong sunlight after fertilization from increasing the fertilizer concentration and causing fertilizer damage. The spraying position should emphasize the back of the leaves.
(2) Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable for the time, suitable for the condition, suitable amount, frequent application of thin fertilizer
Suitable for the flower - foliage plants need more nitrogen fertilizer; fruit and flower ornamental plants need more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the time - when sprouting branches and leaves, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the condition - "four more, four less, four no"
Apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before germination, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less when fat and strong, apply less when germinating, apply less when flowering, apply less in the rainy season. Do not apply to newly planted plants, do not apply to leggy plants, do not apply to diseased and weak plants, do not apply in midsummer.
Suitable amount - thin fertilizer: organic fertilizer uses 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; chemical fertilizer uses 0.1-0.3% concentration
Frequent application: once every 7-10 days during the growth period.
Three taboos of fertilization - avoid concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer causes cell fluid to exude outward and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and topdressing damages roots.
Avoid sitting fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of the flowerpot, first cover with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Avoid the root system sitting directly on the fertilizer.
3. Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be replenished to keep the soil moist. In rainy seasons, attention must be paid to drainage to prevent roots from suffocating and dying due to water accumulation and lack of oxygen.
When watering, generally keep the difference between water temperature and soil temperature no more than 5°C. In summer, water in the early morning and evening; in winter, water around noon.
(2) Potted flower watering
(1) Watering principle - dry and wet alternately, do not water when not dry, water when dry appears, and water thoroughly when watering.
Dry and wet alternately means making the soil alternately dry and wet. This not only ensures water supply for the flowers and trees, but also keeps the potting soil air-permeable and protects root development.
The standard for dryness is that the upper layer of the potting soil is dry, the bottom soil still has moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves show brief wilting at noon.
When flowering plants lack water, the first sign is wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be replenished immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means that the amount of water should be such that water is seen seeping out from the bottom of the pot. Half-way water, with the upper potting soil wet and the lower soil dry, is a major taboo in potted flower management. It can cover up the essence of water shortage with the appearance of moisture on the surface of the potting soil, causing root death due to water shortage. Plants that have been cut off from water are very difficult to revive even if watered for rescue.
(3) More or less watering amount.
Water more for herbaceous plants, less for woody plants; water more for moisture-loving flowers, less for drought-loving flowers;
Water more for large soft leaves, less for small waxy leaves;
Water more during vigorous growth, less after entering dormancy:
Water more when the seedling is large and the pot is small, less when the seedling is small and the pot is large;
Water more on balconies, less in courtyards; water more in summer, less in winter; water more when clear and dry; water less on cloudy days;
Water more during budding, less during flowering.
(4) Rescue of drought dehydration and waterlogging root rot
When woody plants are dehydrated due to long-term drought, the stems and leaves wilt, but the stem trunk still has life. Then they should first be moved to a shaded place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Spray water to maintain the humidity of the aboveground environment. After watering the roots, do not continuously replenish water, to prevent root hypoxia. According to the principle of dry and wet alternately, keep the soil air-permeable to promote new root growth and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, according to the growth state of the aboveground part, carry out appropriate pruning to facilitate new sprouting and leafing.
When potted soil accumulates water after long rain and the plant suffers waterlogging damage, with branches and leaves wilting and losing spirit, the plant must immediately be moved out of the pot with soil, placed in a cool, ventilated place, and the root soil moisture allowed to dissipate. After 3-5 days, when growth resumes, repot it. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can have their pots laid sideways to avoid water accumulation. After long rain, if the weather suddenly clears with strong sunlight, exposing the plants to the sun will, because root growth has been damaged and branch and leaf transpiration is too strong, cause severe water loss and death. Therefore, attention should be paid to strictly controlling water, moving the position, and shading for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, most should avoid pouring water directly overhead. For Gloxinia, African violet and other flowers, after the flowers and leaves are splashed with water, it will cause rot of flowers and leaves. However, bromeliads require overhead watering so that the leaf cups store water to meet growth needs. Orchids and Marantaceae flowers, in addition to appropriate watering, require spraying to increase the air humidity of the cultivation environment.
Indoor foliage plants, according to differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin, also have relatively large differences in water requirements. Monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, calla lily and other Araceae plants, ferns, and Cyperus alternifolius belong to moisture-loving flowers. Watering should follow "prefer wet over dry", but do not let water accumulate. Sansevieria, aloe, sedum and other succulents, and cacti are drought-loving flowers. Watering should follow "prefer dry over wet" to prevent root rot caused by excessive water. Others such as Asparagus setaceus, sago palm and begonia, most plants, belong to intermediate-type flowers. Soil moisture that is too dry or too wet both have adverse reactions. Watering can follow the principle of "alternately dry and wet".
4. Flower protection
Home flower growing must protect flowers for safe passing through summer and overwintering, and must prevent and control pests and diseases.
(1) Passing through summer and overwintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. When the air temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
(1) Safe passing through summer
High summer temperatures and strong sunlight often make some temperate plants unaccustomed to the severe heat and make some shade-loving plants susceptible to sunburn. Therefore, home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, water spraying, and adjusting the placement positions of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and enable flowers to pass through summer safely.
(2) Safe overwintering
Frost damage and freezing damage in winter have a great impact on flower growth. Some cold-intolerant flowers will die due to frost. In autumn, when plants are still in the growth period, some flowers will have their leaves and buds all harmed once early frost occurs. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and germinate. If they are hit by late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. In the Suzhou area, the early frost period generally appears in early to mid-November, and the final frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore, during this period, in order to prevent frost damage and low-temperature freezing damage below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by covering with soil or covering with film. Potted flowers on balconies can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall. In the evening when there is severe cold, woven bags or hemp bags and other coverings should also be added on the top and around the shed for warmth. Already
For balconies installed with glass enclosure, cold-intolerant plants such as Aglaia odorata, hibiscus, Christmas cactus, Impatiens walleriana and Croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, management should restrict watering, but water still needs to be replenished in due time according to conditions. Due to negligence in management, home flower growing in winter also often suffers from death by drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control
For pest and disease control in home flower growing, the principle of "prevention first" should be mastered. Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growth environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning work, so that flowers and trees grow vigorously and enhance their own resistance to pests and diseases, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
(1) Insect pests
Pests have two types according to feeding method.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits. The damaged parts show notches, perforations, holes, etc. Such as green caterpillars, nettle grubs, longhorn beetles, white grubs (scarab larvae), etc.
Use stomach poisons and contact insecticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, phoxim, etc.
Sucking pests:
Pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck the sap. Such as aphids, scale insects and red spiders (mites), etc.
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, shrinkage and discoloration.
Use contact and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate, propargite, etc.
③ Diseases
There are mainly three types of pathogens causing plant diseases
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal attack; mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the surface of the host.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scab, mold rot, wilting, etc.
The main chemicals used are carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, etc.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria; water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions appear on the leaves and are limited by the leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, slimy and sticky, with a foul odor. In wilted diseased stems, the vascular bundles can be seen to turn brown in cross-section.
The main chemicals used are: validamycin, agricultural streptomycin, etc.
5. Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering and fruiting; pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Common methods used in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on seedlings of herbaceous flowers. After the main stem of the herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds and increases branching, achieving the goal of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and more flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, marigolds, etc.
(2) Branch pruning There are two ways of pruning branches; one is to remove the branch at its base, called thinning. Thinning is the removal of overly dense branches as well as crossing branches, leggy branches, weak slender branches, diseased and pest-infested branches and dead branches, which helps ventilation and light penetration for the tree body and enhances the growth vigor of the plant. The other way is to shorten the branch, called heading back. Heading back can promote the sprouting of lateral buds on the branch, adjust growth vigor, and benefit flowering and fruiting. For roses, leaving the branches at about 20-30cm and heading them back in winter can control the plant's growth height and make spring flowering abundant and uniform. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote the sprouting of lateral branches and form flowering branches for the following year. The growth habits of various flowers and trees differ; some have terminal buds that form flower buds, while others have lateral buds that form flower buds, so heading back should also adopt different corresponding methods.
(1) Bud removal During the growing period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear; if allowed to grow, they will consume nutrients, disrupt the tree shape and affect ventilation and light penetration, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the root sucker parts are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra and calla lily, some old leaves should be removed in time to promote new leaves. After jasmine is brought outdoors in spring, removing old leaves can promote the production of many new shoots and new leaves, with vigorous growth and many flower buds.
6. Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating new plants and new seedlings yourself adds even more pleasure to growing flowers. Commonly used methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering and grafting.
(1) Sowing
Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry and low-temperature storage conditions can prolong seed life; for home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and then stored in the refrigerator's crisper.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring.
After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2 to 3 times the height of the seed.
Seed germination requires temperature, moisture and air. Generally 20-25C is most suitable for germination; the sowing bed soil must not become compacted or waterlogged, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After emergence, when they have 2 to 4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This makes use of the regeneration ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves and buds after being separated from the mother plant to cultivate new plants.
The soil (substrate) used for cuttings should be loose, breathable and harmless; for home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite and vermiculite can be used.
For stem cuttings of woody plants, choose fully grown branches of the current year, take material 10-15cm long with 3-4 buds, and insert 5-6cm into the soil. The cut at the lower end of the cutting should be at a node. Dormant branch cuttings are carried out 10-15 days before budding. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be carried out during the growing season after the new shoots have matured. However, the leaves on the aboveground part should be appropriately trimmed to reduce transpiration and benefit rooting.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, choose fully developed tender stems; wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens hawkeri, Impatiens walleriana, salvia and marigold all root easily.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use flower pots as cutting beds, place tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, and always maintain soil moisture; the cutting pot should avoid direct sunlight. If frequent misting can be used to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in the sunlight; rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb division
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, broadleaf lady palm, Cyperus alternifolius, wintersweet and peony, after growing for several years, have enlarged clumps; in early spring or autumn, the clump can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should retain as many roots as possible and reduce the area of the cut wounds.
Bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, daffodils, gladiolus and red wood sorrel can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without being separated from the mother plant, prompting the middle stem nodes of the buried branch part to root. Layering is usually carried out in March-April; the buried part needs to be notched or ring-barked to facilitate the formation of new roots from callus tissue at the wound site. In autumn, cut below the rooted part to grow a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, choose a branch about 0.5-1.0cm in diameter and perform ring-barking, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5cm. On the outside, use a bamboo tube or plastic film bag, filled with breathable, moisture-retaining material, to promote rooting at the ring-barked part; this is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted)
The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting material, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. The commonly used methods are two types: stem grafting and bud grafting.
IV. Home Floral Art
1. Flower Arrangement
Flower arrangement uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower configuration in flower arrangement, the following key points should generally be mastered.
(1) High and low in alternation The positions of the flower branches should be staggered front and back, high and low; avoid being on the same straight line or the same plane.
(2) Spacing well balanced The flower branches or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances; there should be both sparseness and density.
(3) Combination of solid and empty Flowers are solid and leaves are empty; with both flowers and leaves, flowers are the main body and leaves are the accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath can also be used as accompaniment to give the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Mutual response from above and below The flower branches above, below, left and right should echo one another around the main flower branch, maintaining overall unity and balance among the branches.
(5) Light on top, heavy below When combining flower branches, buds are on top and fully open flowers are below; light-colored flowers are on top and dark-colored flowers are below; small flowers with posture are on top and large, spherical flowers are below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Scattered above, gathered below When multiple flower branches are combined, the upper flowers can be scattered and the lower flowers should be gathered.
European-style flower arrangement forms a lush geometric pattern, with brilliant and vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arrangement often favors elegance and simplicity in its branches, esteems nature, is plain and refined, and is rich in profound implication.
2. Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, rocks and the like as materials and, through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the spirit of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting."
(1) Tree stump bonsai
The shaping of tree stumps should show vigor and antique simplicity; in technique, one should master:
The lower part must reveal claws -- expose the roots under the tree above the soil.
The middle must have wrinkles -- bend the trunk and avoid straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The upper part must form clouds -- the crown's flowers and leaves are lush like clouds.
When planting two plants together in a pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one carrying a young one; the old tree amiable and full of feeling, the young tree graceful and well-proportioned, like people standing together and looking at each other. For three or more plants, the greatest taboo is roots and tops being all uniform, shaped like a bound bundle of firewood; they must yield to each other left and right and interlace naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai
With rocks as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural mountains and waters. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak is Mount Tai a thousand xun high, one spoon is rivers and lakes ten thousand li wide." Its value lies in showing the great within the small and being fascinating.
Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near objects large and far objects small, near objects solid and far objects empty, to make the scenery magnificent and profound. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, there are three types of landscape bonsai layout, namely:
① High distance -- looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
Rocks should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 20-25:1.
It is often mainly a single rock, or a slightly lower accompanying scene is added near the main body to set off the main scenery.
③ Deep distance -- peering at the rocks from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
Rocks generally occupy about 5/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 15:1.
The mountain group forms a "" shape in vertical rows, jagged and interlaced, solid in front and empty behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem exposed yet hidden, appearing and disappearing, making the scenery deep and far.
④ Level distance -- looking into the distance from a nearby mountain is called level distance.
In the level-distance layout, the whole scene is mostly water, with mountains as low ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few gullies, arranged in scattered, winding order.
The rocks occupy about 3/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot height is 6:1.
Landscape bonsai must handle blank space well; blank space represents the water surface, making water surround the mountains and the mountains come alive because of the water; mountains are solid and water is empty: they complement each other. Generally, to express a broad water surface, the blank space may account for more than 2/3. To express a mountain-dominated scene, the blank space may account for 1/3.
Landscape bonsai can be embellished with figures, birds and beasts, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scene can be arranged according to the size scale of "zhang mountains, chi trees, cun horses, fen people."
3. Hydroponic Flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a cultivation substrate. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home; its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to maintain, and also allows one to observe the growth of the plant root system.
The flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite extensive, including aquatic plants, hygrophytes, mesophytes and a group of plants that are less drought-tolerant. For home hydroponics, one should choose species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves, so that they can be placed on a desk or table. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth, Nuphar pumilum, Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, broadleaf lady palm, spider plant, ivy, daffodil, hyacinth, amaryllis, tulip, nasturtium, arrowroot, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aucuba japonica, bromeliads, etc.
Hydroponic containers can use various transparent glass vessels; for simple home cultivation, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass marbles in the container can both fix the root system and add color to the cultivation vessel.
For a simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution, add 0.74g calcium nitrate, 0.48g potassium nitrate, 0.12g monopotassium phosphate and 0.37g magnesium sulfate per 1000g water. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. For bulbous flowers and short-term water-grown foliage plants, clean water can also be used for water culture when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase.
The water used for water culture needs to be replaced frequently, which can reduce water spoilage and increase oxygen in the water. The water level in bottle culture should not be too high; it is best to let part of the root base be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen absorption.
4. Bottle Planting
Use glass vessels such as glass bottles and goldfish bowls to cultivate flowers, making a "bottle landscape" or "glass garden."
Plants more suitable for bottle planting often include ferns, spider plant, Tradescantia zebrina, begonia, Cordyline, small-leaved ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus types and succulents, etc. When planting, multiple compatible plants are often used to configure a bottle landscape; the bottle top can be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite and sphagnum moss as substrate, then plant the flowers. From outside the glass bottle, one can watch the growth of a group of garden scenery, full of lingering charm and uniquely styled.
5. Combined Pot Planting
Combined pot planting uses multiple ornamental plants and, by applying artistic configuration techniques, plants them together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can combine 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, attention should be paid to the following.
(1) The plant traits in the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant should be combined separately to facilitate management.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This enables the combined group to create a sense of beauty in aspects such as color, form, posture and charm.
(3) The container should be harmonious with the grouped landscape plants. The texture, size, color and shape of the container all affect the style of the potted planting.
(4) In pot combination, the main plant should first be determined. Generally, the main landscape plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, and then some accompanying plants should be arranged; gaps can also be left and filled with pebbles and shells as embellishment. At the container edge, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, different approaches may be taken for the combined plants, either removing them from their pots or planting them in their original pots.
V. Common Misconceptions in Flower Growing
Misconception 1: Watering too much
Giving flowers more "drink" in summer is not always better the more the better. You can water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately water again depending on the dryness of the pot soil; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, judging by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of watering must be controlled; if the flower "drinks" too much, it is very easy to cause root rot. Such flowers also cannot withstand prolonged exposure to the sun; you can spray some water on the leaf surface when it is relatively dry at noon. For some more drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and crassulaceous succulents, they should "drink" less; too much water easily causes root rot.
Misconception 2: Putting them indoors
Summer sunlight is strong, so simply move the flowers indoors. But they will instead grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but still need appropriate shading at noon. If they are neutral, appropriate shading is needed. If they are balcony potted flowers, they can be moved indoors from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. each day. If they are shade-loving, contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Misconception 3: Fertilizing too much
Too much fertilizer cannot be absorbed by the flowers and instead harms the root system. Of course, flowers that generally bloom in summer are relatively heat-tolerant and can be given somewhat more fertilizer, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, impatiens, cockscomb and dahlia; fertilizer can be applied during the flowering period to make them luxuriant in branches and leaves. For some ornamental fruit flowers such as kumquat and five-color pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
VI. Common Toxic Flower Plants
Oleander
It blooms in spring, summer and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be ornamental and medicinal, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves and even flowers are toxic; if its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce intelligence. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if ingested by mistake.
Poinsettia
The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions; if the stems and leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Daffodil
Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin; accidental ingestion can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and special care should be taken not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy
The whole plant is toxic and contains toxic alkaloids; especially the fruit is the most toxic. If eaten by mistake, it can cause poisoning of the central nervous system, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily
The flower is toxic and contains a large amount of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc.; accidental ingestion can cause poisoning symptoms such as coma.
Lantana
Both flowers and leaves are toxic; accidental ingestion can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura flower
Also known as belladonna flower, it is common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River; children who eat it by mistake will be poisoned.
Night-blooming cestrum
At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, place night-blooming cestrum indoors during the day, and move it outdoors in the evening.
Tulip
The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If humans and animals stay in a cluster of these flowers for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and experience poisoning symptoms; in severe cases, it can also cause hair loss. It is not suitable for planting at home.
Lycoris radiata
It contains lycorine alkaloids and the whole plant is toxic. If eaten by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea, and in severe cases, speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron
The plants and flowers of the yellow rhododendron contain toxins, and eating them by mistake causes poisoning; the flowers of the white rhododendron contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins, which after poisoning cause vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, and in severe cases shock, seriously harming human health.
Redbud
If people are exposed to the pollen it releases for too long, it can trigger asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Larkspur
Also known as radish flower, the whole plant is toxic, with the seeds being even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. If eaten by mistake, it causes nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases, convulsions and respiratory failure leading to death.
Nandina
Graceful and slender, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nantenine, nandinoside and others. After being eaten by mistake, it easily causes symptoms of poisoning such as whole-body twitching, convulsions and coma.
Mimosa
It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin causes sparse eyebrows, yellowing of the hair and even hair loss. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. After being eaten by mistake, it causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, stomach and intestines, and in severe cases damages the vocal cords, making the person mute.
Wisteria
Its seeds, stems and bark are all toxic, and the seeds contain cytisine. After being eaten by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea, and in severe cases, bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose
The rich fragrance it releases will suddenly make some people feel chest tightness and discomfort, and difficulty breathing, after smelling it.
Lily
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it will over-excite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus plants
The spines contain toxic sap. After a person is pricked, it causes allergic symptoms such as red, swollen and painful skin and itching, making the whole body uncomfortable and the mind restless.
Pine and cypress
The fragrant smell released by these flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human stomach and intestines. If smelled for too long, it not only affects one's appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel restless, nauseous and wanting to vomit, and dizzy.
Orchid
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it will make people over-excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea
If the fine particles it releases come into contact with people, they will cause itching of the skin in some people.
Beautiful flowers and ornamental plants such as crown-of-thorns, garden balsam, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Codiaeum variegatum, Euphorbia antiquorum and Euphorbia neriifolia. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal carcinoma and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have overly strong floral fragrances, such as night-blooming jasmine and lantana. Being surrounded by such smells for a long time is unbearable; even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and roses, they may at first seem pleasantly fragrant, but after a long time, especially while sleeping, breathing in these scents becomes unbearable……
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander and zhuangyuanhong, which release toxic smells, and frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flowers and plants that have healing effects on people are not good for health if healthy people live with them day and night and come into close contact with them.
According to botanists' measurements, evergreen (Rohdea japonica) contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb-cane enzymes). Its stem and leaf sap is strongly irritating when it touches the skin. If an infant accidentally bites it, the strong irritation of the oral mucosa will cause throat edema, and even paralyze the vocal cords and cause loss of voice. Therefore, people commonly call evergreen "dumb cane," and there is a saying, “The flower is pretty, but the poison is hard to bear.”
VII. Simple homemade flower pesticides
The following introduces some pesticides that both prevent insects and treat diseases, do not pollute the environment, and are easy to obtain and simple to use. You might as well give them a try.
I. Pest control. In home flower growing, common pests include aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, thrips, leafhoppers, lace bugs, ants, red spider mites and so on.
(1) Ginkgo: Put the fruit into a mortar and mash it, add an equal amount of water, and filter to obtain the stock solution. When using, take the stock solution and dilute it with water at a volume ratio of 1:2 and spray, which can control aphids. (2) Oriental arborvitae: Wash the cypress fruit and mash it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5 and soak for 24 hours, then take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control leafhoppers. (3) Peach: Take peach leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:6, boil for 30 minutes, and take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control aphids and other mollusks. (4) Tung tree: Cut old leaves into pieces and add water at a weight ratio of 1:3 to 5; or use the fruit peel and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak either for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control aphids. (5) Chinese pulsatilla: Wash the plant, cut it into pieces and mash it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 23 hours, or boil for half an hour, and the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers and lace bugs. (6) Japanese bindweed: Wash the stems, cut them into pieces and mash them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers and lace bugs. (7) Sun spurge: Cut the stems and leaves into pieces and mash them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:4, boil for 1 to 2 hours, and take the filtrate and spray to control aphids and red spider mites. (8) Mint: Cut mint into pieces and mash it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control leafhoppers and lace bugs. (9) Chili pepper: Add water to chili peppers at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil for half an hour, take the filtrate and spray, which can control aphids and stink bugs. (10) Tobacco: Take tobacco leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, or boil for 1 hour, and take the filtrate to soak through the potting soil, which can kill ants in the pot; or take the filtrate, dilute it with an equal amount of water, add a little soap, and it can control aphids, red spider mites, thrips and leafhoppers. (11) Sichuan pepper: Use Sichuan pepper, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil it down to 5 parts stock solution, then dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:10 and spray, which can control whiteflies and aphids.
II. Disease control. In home flower growing, common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, rot, leaf spot, damping-off and so on.
(1) Masson pine: Take pine needles, add water at a weight ratio of 1:2 to 3, boil for 2 hours to make them slightly gelatinous; take the filtrate and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:1, which can control root rot. (2) Rose of Sharon: Take rose of Sharon flowers, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control root rot and damping-off. (3) Ginger: Mash ginger and squeeze out the juice, then take the juice and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:20 and spray, which can control rot. (4) Chinese chives: Mash Chinese chives, add water at a weight ratio of 1.6:10, then stir evenly and take the filtrate and spray, which can control rust and also aphids. (5) Scallion: Mash scallions, add water at a weight ratio of 2:1.5, filter and spray, which can control white disease and also aphids. (6) Garlic: Mash garlic, add water at a weight ratio of 1:1, stir evenly and take the juice, then take the juice and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:3 and spray, which can control powdery mildew, gray mold and root rot, and also aphids, red spider mites and other mollusks.
III. Others
(1) Baking soda: Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has the effect of inhibiting fungal growth. Spraying with a 0.1% to 0.2% baking soda solution can control powdery mildew. (2) Plant ash: Take plant ash, add water at a weight ratio of 3:10, soak for 49 hours, and after clarification spray it on the plants, which can control aphids and gray mold and so on. (3) Mosquito coil: Light a mosquito coil containing pyrethrin and place it in the flower pot, then seal the pot with a plastic cover and fumigate for 50 minutes to 60 minutes, which can kill red spider mites. (4) Essential balm: Spray with essential balm diluted 600 to 800 times, which can control aphids, scale insects, red spider mites and so on. (5) Laundry detergent: Add water to laundry detergent at a weight ratio of 1:150, stir evenly and spray once every 5 days, spraying 2 to 3 times in a row, which can control aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and so on. (6) Potassium permanganate: Use a 0.02% to 0.03% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, spraying once every 2 to 3 days, and spraying twice for severe cases, which can control powdery mildew.