How to grow Weigela florida, and does it lose its leaves in winter?

 Weigela florida is something many people like to grow, and its flowers are quite beautiful. What are the growing methods for Weigela florida? Does Weigela florida lose its leaves in winter:

Growing methods for Weigela florida:

1. Soil selection

Choose well-drained, airy sandy loam as the growing medium, and it can be mixed with a suitable amount of nutrient-rich peat soil. After sowing, a 1-2 cm layer of fine sand can be spread on top to promote seed germination.

2. Fertilizer management

Mix a small amount of barnyard manure into the growing medium as a base fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrient supply in the early stage, and avoid directly applying chemical fertilizers, which can burn seedlings and roots and cause soil compaction. When planting, apply decomposed compost or humus as a top dressing, at least once a month during the growing season. After Weigela florida seedlings are transplanted into the garden, once every 2 to 3 years during the dormant period in winter or early spring, dig a trench around the roots and apply fertilizer once.

3. Water supply

Spring is the growth and bud-break period for Weigela florida, and it needs sufficient water reserves, so watering should be noted during the growing season. As the growing season arrives, gradually increase the amount of watering and keep the soil moist.

In summer, high temperatures and drought can easily cause Weigela florida leaves to turn yellow and shrivel or branches to dry up, so keeping sufficient water is very important. Be careful to spray water to lower the temperature and move it to a semi-shaded, moist place for care.

In winter, potted Weigela florida can be moved indoors. For Weigela florida outdoors or in gardens, watering should be appropriately reduced to avoid freezing and damaging the root system and the root crown area.

4. Pruning and shaping

Weigela florida has a long growing period and high ornamental value, so to increase its ornamental quality, shaping should be done in early spring, cutting off old, weak, dead branches and diseased or pest-infested branches, while also shortening long branches to promote the formation of new flower buds. After flowering, remove the inflorescences promptly to promote flowering the following year. A shaping cycle is 2-3 years; appropriately cut away old branches over 3 years old to promote strong growth of new branches.

5. Pest and disease control

Weigela florida occasionally suffers from aphids and red spider mites, which can be killed by spraying with dimethoate emulsion.

Does Weigela florida lose its leaves in winter:

Weigela florida does not drop its leaves in winter, but note that it must be well cared for in winter; if the temperature is too low, it will die.

That is all for the growing methods of Weigela florida. Friends who are interested should not miss it.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the revival stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: First, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting for some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation for some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, horse chestnut, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches from cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus orientalis, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pilea, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old sturdy black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture preservation. Use one-year-old apricot or wild peach seedlings as rootstock for cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock for cut grafting to propagate excellent cultivars such as "Suxin", "Xinkou", and "Huti" Chimonanthus praecox, using bagging and inflation for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Use sturdy branches of the rose cultivar "Elizabeth" as rootstock and scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for excellent rose scions, adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly increase the survival rate of grafting.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Liriope, Liriope with silver edges, Reineckea, Rohdea, Dicentra, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles, Edgeworthia chrysantha, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked, processed, and then sand-stored for germination. They can be sown only after the seed grains have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether there is mold on the seeds. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seed grains have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edged holly, daisy, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus, Albizia, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Ligustrum quihoui, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until the end of February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., when planted, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold, and potted ornamental plants have undergone two consecutive months of indoor (tunnel) care, consuming relatively large amounts of nutrients in the plant body, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased, so work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the time period with the highest temperature of the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom with heating appliances such as "bathroom heaters" turned on to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because the temperature in February is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and fall off, such as Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, winter cherry, etc., all may show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, Primula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits, so that the leaves can be green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouses, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise, the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened, especially during several consecutive days of sustained temperature rise, when supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done in a timely manner, especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs; around noon on clear days, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given to prevent the leaves from shriveling and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, plum blossom, Narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate as a top dressing to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia, Ficus, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus, Adina, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. From the end of February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Amaryllis, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold on Primula leaves, at the early stage of onset choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer applied to the leaves is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., spread it out to dry after about 2 months, and after fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The fully composted and dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be scattered in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, as it is both convenient and hygienic and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing growing soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, continue to turn over garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig furrows and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora, Adina, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If the plant is found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia, Lagerstroemia indica, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus praecox, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, and wetness in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: First, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting to the environment; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, Osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species include: Ophiopogon, Liriope, Reineckea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris, Rohdea, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus, Saxifraga, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. Under relatively good conditions, you can choose to plant some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, Pachira, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas (dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, Primula, Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Syngonium, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota, Areca, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some species with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina, Cycas, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus fragrans, cacti, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, redbud, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. The latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage and germination include: Cycas, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus, horse chestnut, Nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season Primula, Malva species, Mirabilis, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using three-edged arrow cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably carried out in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia, cherry blossom, Osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, Dicentra, Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles, Sansevieria, purple triangular oxalis, Canna, Alpinia, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; for evergreen flowers and trees, when transplanting, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting it does not matter, but appropriate pruning is also needed. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be carried. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the main trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, and chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial for flowering the following year. For Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some thin and weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles, grape, Malus halliana, etc., after leafing out, promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc., which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, silver-edged Liriope, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes, Iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, red oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale and pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, Pyracantha, five-needle pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus, etc. placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile growing soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, Cycas, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and heat preservation work. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera, Syngonium, Ficus elastica, Araucaria, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding the impact of premature sprouting on growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas, Ficus elastica, Caryota, Areca, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and begonias, in combination with repotting, carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, thin and weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus, Juniperus chinensis, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban resident to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for all to live on the first floor and have a good small flower-growing environment. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant bodies are fleshy and thick and contain relatively more sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes and consume very little water through transpiration, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas, cacti (Opuntia, Cleistocactus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively resistant to sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full sunlight, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potted cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Amaryllis, Sageretia, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina, black pine, Juniperus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, five-needle pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera, Philodendron, Camellia, Schefflera, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors near a window sill with relatively good light, such as Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles, Nandina, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth should be well covered with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, grafting five-needle pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. requires bagging for moisture retention; otherwise, survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia, Adina, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, watering once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape, and carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off pest- and disease-infected branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry and dead cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board on top (prefabricated reinforced concrete), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera, Philodendron, Syngonium, Ardisia crenata, Nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the growing soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air flow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huaihe River; only in areas north of the Huaihe River and Yellow River is there still the danger of snow and frost. After Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in the Huaibei region, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower tasks include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome, Mirabilis, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca, dwarf dahlia, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit coccinea, Nicotiana, petunia, Callistephus, Coreopsis, Coreopsis, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, four-season Primula, Tropaeolum, Kochia, Hibiscus, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum, Asparagus, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnoliaceae, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron, hybrid Liriodendron, North American Liriodendron, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden pine, Araucaria, Pseudolarix, Lagerstroemia indica, redbud, Albizia, Taxus, Pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Exochorda, Lycium, Nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, Asparagus setaceus, Primula, winter cherry, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its fruits, which have turned black, whitish, and soft, picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds, or first sand-store the seeds until they crack and show white, then sow, cover with grass for moisture retention. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seed grains have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and at the same time set up a shade frame; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seed grains can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing, or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after collection in April include: Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), and Solanum mammosum (nipplefruit). Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its already blackened, whitish, softened fruits picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in a fertile seedbed, or first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and set up a shade frame; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will sprout and emerge. When the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit viewing or planted in the ground and cultivated as a special cut-flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering plants that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Sophora japonica 'Pendula' (dragon-claw pagoda tree), ornamental peach (Bi Tao), longevity peach (Shou Xing Tao), black locust 'Decaisneana' (Robinia pseudoacacia 'Decaisneana'), as well as cactus (Echinopsis) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), etc.

    3. Division

Foliage plants grown in greenhouses that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), ferns, lady palm (Rhapis), spider plant (Chlorophytum), agave, silver king dieffenbachia, dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), calathea and maranta, aloe, peperomia, monstera (Swiss cheese plant), Philodendron 'Spring Feather', etc. ... (Note: the remainder of this segment in the source is garbled/unreadable and cannot be translated.)

    4. Cuttings

For most flowering plants that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia, nandina (heavenly bamboo), cypress, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia), redbud (Cercis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea, tulip tree (Liriodendron), spiraea 'Snowmound' (spiraea thunbergii), winter daphne (Edgeworthia), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles), etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and roots are not excessively trimmed during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering plants, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering plants. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering plants such as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), michelia, and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowering plants, it is best to transplant when the leaves have not yet unfolded, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut (Aesculus), linden (Tilia), crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering plants should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the plant being transplanted. Only under the condition that the soil ball is not damaged can the transplanted plant be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), (Calocedrus), snow rose (Serissa), water willow (Adina), true juniper (Juniperus), Euonymus, crape myrtle, (Chamaecyparis), (Chamaecyparis), banyan (Ficus), (Buxus sinica), (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, adinandra (Syzygium buxifolium), (Fraxinus hupehensis), trident maple, oak (Quercus), (Cleyera), (Diospyros cathayensis), (Malus halliana), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles), Elaeagnus, (Ilex cornuta), golden larch (Pseudolarix), (Damnacanthus), etc.

As bonsai plants begin their vigorous growth, it is necessary to promptly use metal wire or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental appearance. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male/female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots, to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot extension, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, keeping the branch pads flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, Forsythia, winter daphne (Daphne), kumquat, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, they need a top-dressing of nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), white orchid, etc., top-dressing should likewise be given, which can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at around 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, michelia, plum, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., after flowers fade, top-dressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of the money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press down with a heavy object to fix the shape, then select a suitable pot to plant; the money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, being spread out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Disease Prevention

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles), ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba (Aucuba japonica), (Malus halliana), etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Handbook: Summer

Flower Planting Handbook (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There are many days of continuous spring rain. After the spring rains end around Xiaoman (Grain Full), the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a critical period for growing and caring for flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering plants that can be sown immediately upon harvest in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), mahonia (Mahonia bealei), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc. Sowing and raising seedlings in May should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry; Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing rapid wet-dry changes in the bed that could cause seeds to "regress"; Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the mulch in several stages and promptly set up shade, to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) can have its mature blue-black fruits picked at the end of May. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed should they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (red, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower (Russelia), poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), white jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, chloranthus (Chloranthus), red mulberry (Acalypha), deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush (Buddleja), trumpet creeper (Campsis), gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), jade plant (Crassula), gem flower (Graptopetalum), (Magnolia sieboldii), (Magnolia biondii), Japanese quince, umbrella plant (Cyperus), lantana, (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), (Pachystachys lutea), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), cordyline (Cordyline), pothos (Epipremnum), Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings as rootstock, to graft and propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and michelia (Michelia figo); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old (Rhododendron pulchrum) cuttings, cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood (Artemisia) as rootstock, grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstock for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-ribbed arrow (Hylocereus undatus) can be used as rootstock for grafting Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering plants that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Western azalea, camellia, croton (Codiaeum), michelia, red maple, etc.; flowering plants that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), sweet osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most varieties must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, creating a joyful, lively, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia (broom cypress), marigold, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, when white magnolia flowers have faded and just before buds sprout and leaves unfold, transplanting yields the highest survival rate. Some flowering plants that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree (Albizia), etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually increase their water demand. Besides combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a reservoir or small vat, then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum, azalea, red azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm (Cycas), Philodendron 'Spring Feather', monstera, lady palm (Rhapis), rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem (Fittonia), giant taro (Alocasia), (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), money tree (Pachira), Schefflera, etc.; ornamental fruit plants include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, nandina, winter coral, (Ardisia crenata), etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For white orchid (Michelia alba) that has just been moved out, when pruning back, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out, extending downward. Therefore, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be kept, and must not be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering, pruning should moderately lower by 10 to 20 cm; bud eyes in the middle of the branch can then produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For potted wintersweet plants, when removing buds, attention should also be paid to the location. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud below. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote good plant form.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under shade frames or tree shade. Species include: monstera, lady palm (Rhapis), calathea, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', green giant (Alocasia), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green imperial (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), Calathea roseopicta, fan palm (Livistona), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), orchids, azalea, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for sun-loving flowering plants, full sunlight must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia, trident maple, water willow (Adina), oak (Quercus), snow rose (Serissa), black pine, Pinus, etc., require full sunlight; while Buddhist pine, Damnacanthus, Syzygium buxifolium, Calocedrus, five-needle pine, etc., can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum, aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc.: after flowers fade, remove residual flowers and faded stems, apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with supplementary phosphorus, once every half month, to restore nutritional growth while laying the foundation for re-flowering; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, monstera, green giant, red (green) gem, green imperial, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), ferns, etc., apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colorful spots and patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian ironwood, croton, caladium, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Calathea roseopicta, etc., foliar application of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can make their leaf color even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them; for citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae that commonly appear on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), kumquat, Fortunella, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue (Ruta), etc., spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plants that can still be shaped in May include: plum, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), snow rose (Serissa), Calocedrus, water willow (Adina), Cleyera, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting: when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and core of branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Handbook (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and most bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful, to avoid root rot from excessive rain, or excessive growth from insufficient light that disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering plants that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula), lotus seeds, sago palm (Cycas), loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the mother tree turn from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested; promptly peel open the fruit capsule and extract the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours; after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, then sow in furrows; cover with soil generally 2 to 3 cm thick, add straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the mulch in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering plant branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering plants suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as sweet osmanthus, camellia, michelia, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), lilac (Syringa), purple magnolia, Japanese quince, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, coral tree (Viburnum), coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood (Metasequoia), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), etc.; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood (Buxus), Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, snow rose (Serissa), pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus (Chloranthus), Clerodendrum, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, trumpet creeper, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian ironwood, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), croton, deutzia, mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle, Weigela coraeensis, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Ardisia, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese aralia (Fatsia), spiraea 'Snowmound', hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Parthenocissus, nasturtium, Salvia, Salvia, Heliotropium, umbrella plant (Cyperus), geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and sweet osmanthus as an example: cutting time is from early June to mid-July, ideal when the young shoots of sweet osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip; the lower cut is dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution for 10 seconds, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the bed; cutting depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, spacing 2 cm × 8 cm; after thorough watering, set up bamboo arches over the bed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at around 30°C, maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid and michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock, bud graft to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock, bud graft to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Prunus japonica, plum, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock, graft to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple (Acer), etc. Cleft grafting: use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered camellia, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock, cleft graft camellia and sasanqua; use Rhododendron pulchrum varieties "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" as rootstock, cleft graft or side graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering plants that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Weigela florida, oleander, sweet osmanthus, camellia, plum, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant (Cyperus), Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), spider plant, Acorus, golden-edge lilyturf (Liriope), etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), hollyhock, mallow, primrose, pocketbook flower (Calceolaria), amaryllis (sow immediately upon harvest), etc.

    Flowering plant seeds that can be collected in June: wintersweet seeds, after collection, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be dry-stored until next spring for sowing, without affecting germination rate; peach, apricot, etc., should be sown immediately upon harvest, or their seeds sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; sweet osmanthus seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit coat and washing clean, stored in moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening, then sown in a selected nursery when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting/Establishment and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting. They are: evening primrose, spider flower (Cleome), impatiens, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, Nicotiana, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Kochia (broom cypress), sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass (Alternanthera), etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering plants are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia (Fatsia), mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood (Buxus), under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, best at 10 AM or 5 PM; generally once a day is sufficient; Second, water temperature, should keep irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent. If the water temperature and soil temperature differ too much, it will cause stimulation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers, affecting their growth; Third, combine watering and misting. When there are several days without rain, besides watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers, to increase local humidity. If there are continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and mist based on the dryness/wetness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc., when temperatures reach above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level low, reduce watering, just keep the pot soil moist; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, lycoris (Lycoris), ranunculus (Ranunculus), Dutch peony (Paeonia), etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering, underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, with underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil through summer. Watering must be stopped, move to a cool place, just keep the pot soil from being excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible. After the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as monstera, spider plant, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), calathea, Boston fern, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', sago palm, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), green giant (Alocasia), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green imperial (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), Philodendron 'Imperial Queen', rubber tree, red palm (Anthurium), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, lady palm (Rhapis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria), Brazilian ironwood, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum, camellia, sasanqua, winter daphne, azalea, Osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently blooming, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, to meet their growth and flowering/fruiting needs.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant (Crassula), Christmas cactus, Haworthia cymbiformis, Kleinia, Sedum morganianum, Lampranthus, Stapelia, sedum (Sedum), when temperatures reach above 35°C, stop fertilizing, to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia, Buddhist pine, Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), true juniper, Calocedrus, water willow (Adina), Chinese juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), trident maple, Fontanesia, Tamarix, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant well-layered and good-looking, and promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine, chloranthus, Chinese rose, etc., promptly remove residual flowers and faded stems, and appropriately cut back branches that have flowered, to promote lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering plants such as white orchid, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum, crabapple, etc., in order to promote good plant form, more flower buds, more blooms, and better blooms this year or next, pinch and remove buds from overly vigorous branches, inhibiting the growth of terminal and lateral shoots, prompting lateral buds to sprout.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering plants that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under shade frames, to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as: hosta (Hosta), Hosta ventricosa, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), orchids, lady palm (Rhapis), rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead vine (Syngonium), Calathea roseopicta, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', pothos, peperomia (Peperomia), green giant (Alocasia), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green imperial (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), Philodendron 'Imperial Queen', fan palm (Livistona), winter daphne, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), spider plant, etc. Sun-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, snow rose (Serissa), sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach, plum, wintersweet, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple, Sageretia, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), water willow (Adina), oak (Quercus), black pine, Pinus, white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; Buddhist pine, Damnacanthus, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, Nageia etc., can be appropriately shaded.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Calocedrus, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), papaya (Chaenomeles), firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple, etc., are susceptible to damage from trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum, wintersweet, etc., are susceptible to aphid damage. Promptly select appropriate pesticides to spray and kill.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection. Promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for control.

(5) Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc., have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened in early spring or ground-planted. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huangshan pine (Pinus armandii), Calocedrus, Chinese juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), goji (Lycium), five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum, ornamental peach, trident maple, snow rose (Serissa), black pine, Buxus sinica, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Tamarix, water willow (Adina), true juniper, ginkgo, Fontanesia, firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, wire gently and slowly, and must not rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Mangzhong (Grain in Ear); June 21, Xiazhi (Summer Solstice).

Flower Planting Handbook (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends the plum rain season. July 16, the first fu (dog days) begins; August 15, the fu ends. Most regions of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most regions of China is above 24°C, and in the region south of the Yangtze-Huai, it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis), Primula obconica, ornamental kale, campanula (Campanula), etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, Prunus persica, mountain peach, Prunus triloba, etc., can also be picked. After washing off the fruit flesh, immediately sow in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack, then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately upon harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until next spring for sowing, without affecting germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria barbata, begonia, coleus, clearweed (Pilea), scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster (Aster novi-belgii), purple loosestrife (Lythrum), umbrella plant (Cyperus), creeping fig (Parthenocissus), coral flower (Russelia), peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe), pothos, etc.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: redback excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), Hypericum, golden St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), Korean weigela (Weigela coraeensis), hydrangea, trumpet weigela (Weigela florida), Canton spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), spiraea 'Snowmound', winter daphne, gardenia, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), Siebold magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), bougainvillea, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, snow rose (Serissa), michelia, coral tree (Viburnum), rubber tree, Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), Sargent viburnum (Viburnum sargentii), boxwood (Buxus), fig (Ficus), purple magnolia, sweet osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, water cutting can also be used to propagate some flowering plants. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, etc. Using water cutting to propagate flowering plants: First, prepare a thick 1 to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforate it for use as cutting fixing material; Second, keep the water quality for cuttings clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach or wild peach (Prunus persica) seedlings can be used as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), red-leaf plum, Meiren plum (Prunus mume 'Meiren'), etc.; use wild rose, Cathay rose (Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis), and "Shizimei" rose (Rosa multiflora 'Shizimei') cuttings as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, grafting to propagate white orchid and michelia, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; also can use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, using softwood side grafting with bag moisture retention, grafting at 3 to 4 cm from the ground; after 7 to 10 days, whether it has survived can be determined; use purple azalea (Rhododendron pulchrum) varieties "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" as rootstock, cleft graft or side graft to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use Siberian crabapple (Malus baccata), Hupeh crabapple (Malus hupehensis), or hall crabapple (Malus halliana), crabapple current-year seedling as rootstock, perform "T"-shaped bud grafting, to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, bag grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering plant species that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), oleander, trumpet weigela (Weigela florida), peashrub (Caragana), sweet osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta (Hosta), blue plantain lily (Hosta ventricosa), Acorus, umbrella plant (Cyperus), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), Moses-in-the-cradle (Tradescantia spathacea), bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf (Liriope), sacred lily (Reineckea), zephyr lily (Zephyranthes), Boston fern, iris, inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath (Gypsophila), petunia, phlox, foxglove, creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia), sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, lampranthus (Lampranthus), etc.
    Flowering plant seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach (Prunus persica), mountain peach, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), etc.
    2. Transplanting/Establishment and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers for display during National Day. Herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedling or cutting plants. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day, for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), marigold, French marigold, Kochia (broom cypress), China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under certain special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with root balls, such as leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), and Chinese savin ball (Sabina chinensis), among others. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be erected in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be returned to normal management. Do not be careless or negligent.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
    Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state during high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel (Oxalis articulata), geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), begonias (Begonia spp.), stonecrops (Sedum spp.), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), cacti (Cactaceae spp.), Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), Portulacaria afra, aloe (Aloe spp.), etc., should have their watering reduced because the temperature is too high, their growth activity has basically stopped, and their metabolic level is very low. Keep the potting soil moist, pay attention to shading and ventilation, and create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and can also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
    Flower species that enter a deep dormant state during high temperatures, such as cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), lycoris (Lycoris spp.), Persian buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), show withered stems and leaves above ground in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and simply keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
    For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), arrowroot (Maranta spp.), Syngonium spp., red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Pyracantha fortuneana, sour orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also appropriate foliar spraying should be given, combining watering and spraying. Especially during consecutive overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given; do not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves with water, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plant to die.
    For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward, to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest; flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours before and after noon. It is advisable to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, pour out any accumulated water found in the pots in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants that should have their fertilization management strengthened. The first is species with particularly long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Aglaia odorata, and jasmine (Jasminum sambac); the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis); the third is species grown in winter for their flowers and fruits, such as sour orange (Citrus aurantium), nandina (Nandina domestica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.); the fourth is foliage plants, such as bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree (Ficus elastica). As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the application method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is best.
    In July, the herbaceous flowers that should have their fertilization strengthened include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (white, purple, pink), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), petunia (Petunia hybrida), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold (Tagetes erecta), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), and dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), among others. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), banana shrub (Michelia figo), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), crabapple (Malus spp.), Brunfelsia acuminata, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.), Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), and cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), among others. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Dracaena fragrans, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot (Maranta spp.), giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), red gem (Fittonia spp.), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), and Cordyline fruticosa, among others.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as stonecrops (Sedum spp.), Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, and Stapelia variegata, among others; fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and have their buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means using the fingers to directly pinch off the tender terminal buds at the tips of shoots. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia viridissima, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Serissa serissoides, and orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), among others. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot, prompting the lower lateral buds to sprout and form beautiful crown layers or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with fingers, such as Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), oak (Quercus spp.), Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', among others.
For potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), and Chloranthus spicatus, among others, spent flowers and faded stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have already flowered should be shortened back as necessary, which can prompt the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again. For rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), crabapple (Malus spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and plum blossom (Prunus mume), among others, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened back, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns (Polypodiopsida spp.), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.), Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), pepperomia (Peperomia spp.), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), arrowroot (Maranta spp.), and Reineckea carnea, among others.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Serissa serissoides, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), peach (Prunus persica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Adina rubella, oak (Quercus spp.), Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), among others. For Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Damnacanthus indicus, cloud bamboo (Asparagus setaceus), hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), among others, it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and is also beneficial for protecting the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species should be chosen that have a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or leaves covered with a relatively thick cuticle, are somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and have strong resistance, such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Hibiscus mutabilis, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Schefflera octophylla, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), among others, while it is not advisable to choose plants such as Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), and Syngonium podophyllum, among others. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Disease and pest control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or trunks of plum blossom (Prunus mume), peach (Prunus persica), crabapple (Malus spp.), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), and Prunus triloba, among others, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Control methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic insecticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate and omethoate, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree pyralid (Glyphodes perspectalis) that harms boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of sour orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Fortunella hindsii, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Citrus wilsonii, and rue (Ruta graveolens), among others, and stomach-poison insecticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect (Ericerus pela) that harms privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), water wax (Ligustrum sinense), and Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), late July to late August is its emergence period. The right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming big-leaf euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), London plane (Platanus acerifolia), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), camellia (Camellia japonica), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), and deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), among others. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches and trunks are susceptible to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. The plants that can still be shaped are some species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Serissa serissoides, black pine (Pinus thunbergii), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), and Adina rubella, among others.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second-highest high-temperature dry-hot period of the year after July. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, the main woody flowers are: Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), Armand pine (Pinus armandii), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), Aglaia odorata, pomegranate (Punica granatum), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), lantana (Lantana camara), coral tree (Erythrina variegata), Phormium tenax, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Dracaena fragrans, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Schefflera octophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander (Nerium oleander), Washington palm (Washingtonia filifera), Chinese fan palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), among others. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), Indian shot (Canna generalis), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), shrimp begonia (Begonia maculata), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), phlox (Phlox drummondii), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), lycoris (Lycoris spp.), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), and zinnia (Zinnia elegans), among others. In addition, there are cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and Aglaonema commutatum, among others.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus floridus), American summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus floridus var. laevigatus), and Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), among others. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. After the ornamental pomegranate matures and cracks, harvest it, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-store until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath (Gypsophila paniculata), Scabiosa japonica, petunia (Petunia hybrida), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), oxalis (Oxalis spp.), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), and Dalmatian chrysanthemum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium), among others. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria (Calceolaria herbeohybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Chinese primrose (Primula obconica), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), among others.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate of alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, and the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), banana shrub (Michelia figo), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), coral tree (Erythrina variegata), Aglaia odorata, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), snowball (Viburnum plicatum), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Osmanthus fragrans, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Schefflera spp., Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), among others. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of boxwood (Buxus spp.), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), French holly (Viburnum tinus), golden-edge privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), nandina (Nandina domestica), fig (Ficus carica), oleander (Nerium oleander), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Serissa serissoides, spiraea (Spiraea spp.), snow spray (Spiraea thunbergii), and gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), among others. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), among others, can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafts can be carried out: in northern regions, use fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) as rootstock and side-graft osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans); use purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) as rootstock and side-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom (Prunus mume), ornamental peach (Prunus persica 'Duplex'), longevity peach (Prunus persica 'Densa'), purple-leaf peach (Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea'), double-flowered dwarf cherry plum (Prunus glandulosa 'Rosea Plena'), and Prunus triloba, among others; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata); use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) and Cathay rose (Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis) as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis); use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis as rootstock and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple (Acer palmatum) as rootstock and crown-change graft red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum') and laceleaf maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'); use single-trunk rubber tree (Ficus elastica) as rootstock and side-graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and side-graft superior varieties of camellia (Camellia japonica); use seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock and side-graft or side-approach graft superior varieties of wintersweet flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria (Wisteria floribunda).
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), climbing rose (Rosa spp.), weigela (Weigela florida), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), snowball (Viburnum plicatum), oleander (Nerium oleander), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), broom (Cytisus scoparius), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus (Osmanthus spp.), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree (Ficus elastica) (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), and red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum') (air layering), among others.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Philodendron 'Little Angel', Philodendron 'Imperial Green' multi-head, bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Solomon's seal (Polygonatum odoratum), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), iris (Iris spp.), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Dutch aster (Aster novi-belgii), fine-leaf acorus (Acorus gramineus), Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Aglaonema commutatum, arrowroot (Maranta spp.), Syngonium podophyllum, and Haworthia (Haworthia spp.), among others. In addition, lycoris (Lycoris spp.), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), and freesia (Freesia refracta), among others, can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large root balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering, and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), golden-edge oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), golden-heart (edge) boxwood (Buxus sinica), goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese savin ball (Sabina chinensis), Chinese juniper ball (Juniperus chinensis), boxwood ball (Buxus sinica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), and French holly (Viburnum tinus), among others. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), French marigold (Tagetes patula), and dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), among others, and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, courtyard hedges such as boxwood (Buxus spp.), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), French holly (Viburnum tinus), and Photinia davidsoniae, among others, should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia (Photinia spp.), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), bayberry (Myrica rubra), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Ilex cornuta, and holly (Ilex spp.), among others, must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flower and tree species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), and lantana (Lantana camara), among others, spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be shortened back appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), early chrysanthemum, French marigold (Tagetes patula), and marigold (Tagetes erecta), among others, topping and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet, to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously, and ensure that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edge (heart) boxwood (Buxus sinica), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), purple-leaf dwarf cherry (Prunus x cistena), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), and shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'), among others, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue flowering, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), and lantana (Lantana camara), among others, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), and autumn anemone (Anemone hupehensis), among others, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), plum blossom (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), among others, which are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed by foliar topdressing.
5. Disease and pest control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Photinia (Photinia spp.), and camellia (Camellia japonica), among others, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger (a pest) and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution for control. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), and summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus floridus), among others. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora), moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), phlox (Phlox drummondii), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), and snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), among others.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria (Calceolaria herbeohybrida), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), Begonia masoniana, and Begonia rex, among others, water droplets that land on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia (Clivia miniata) must not be drenched with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), water must be given sparingly and sprayed more, and water should be poured into the leaf tanks to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, control watering and spraying, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist, and create a relatively cool and moist environment for them by spraying water around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Dracaena fragrans, Phormium tenax, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Pandanus utilis, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense) (peace wood), ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Red', poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Chamaedorea elegans, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), among others, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), and lantana (Lantana camara), among others, as well as fruit-bearing plants such as sour orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), lemon (Citrus limon), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Diospyros armata, fruiting pomegranate, nandina (Nandina domestica), and papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), among others, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), early chrysanthemum, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), and dwarf sunflower (Helianthus annuus), among others, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), plum blossom (Prunus mume), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.), among others, low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied as foliar topdressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves with water once after fertilizing, to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia (Clivia miniata), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), Daphne odora, aloe (Aloe spp.), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), stonecrops (Sedum spp.), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), cacti (Cactaceae spp.), and cactus balls (Echinopsis spp.), among others, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plants to rot at the roots or die.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree (Ficus elastica), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot (Maranta spp.), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Red', orchids (Orchidaceae spp.), Calathea roseopicta, pepperomia (Peperomia spp.), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns (Polypodiopsida spp.), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), fernleaf hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia albivenis, purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca), Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, begonias (Begonia spp.), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), and purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), among others, shade frames can continue to be provided, pulling on shade netting at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), among others. For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal?BR>5. Disease and pest control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight, among others. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers, among others.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), fruiting pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), Oriental arborvitae stump (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), oak (Quercus spp.), Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), agave (Agave americana), lantana (Lantana camara), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Aglaia odorata, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), and Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), among others. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium orchids (Dendrobium spp.), cattleya (Cattleya spp.), Cymbidium sinense, Vanda orchids (Vanda spp.), Oncidium orchids (Oncidium spp.), South American cycad (Zamia furfuracea), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), arrowroot (Maranta spp.), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Philodendron 'Little Angel', Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), money tree (Pachira aquatica), clivia (Clivia miniata), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), Fittonia albivenis, shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), Dracaena fragrans, and Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), among others.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to carry out moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be a mixture of rice chaff ash and fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), shrimp begonia (Begonia maculata), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Cyrtanthera carnea), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Aglaonema commutatum, camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), and banana shrub (Michelia figo), among others. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), fig (Ficus carica), Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, geranium (Pelargonium spp.), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), and fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), among others.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm thick wet sand, and then some potted flowers that are relatively fond of moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Syngonium podophyllum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads (Bromeliaceae spp.), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), and Chloranthus spicatus, among others. Usually, spraying water instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium orchids (Oncidium spp.), cattleya (Cattleya spp.), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), Dendrobium orchids (Dendrobium spp.), Anthurium crystallinum, and Alocasia amazonica, among others, they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pomegranate (Punica granatum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Pinus parviflora, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Adina rubella, agave (Agave americana), and sago palm (Cycas revoluta), among others, water can be given 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, fertilization should be stopped for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or applied by watering, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be broadcast on the pot surface. For flower and tree species mainly grown for flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), sour orange (Citrus aurantium), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), and kumquat (Fortunella margarita), among others, quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex spp.), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), among others, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), plum blossom (Prunus mume), and trident maple (Acer buergerianum), among others, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Serissa serissoides, Fraxinus chinensis, oak (Quercus spp.), small bayberry (Myrica rubra), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), and firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), among others, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, faded stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Disease and pest control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by using adhesive transparent tape. For aphids that frequently appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them

Flower Planting Handbook (September Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China decline slowly, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Australian cycad (Macrozamia spp.), Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon (Cinnamomum spp.), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Phormium tenax, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Schefflera octophylla, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Plumeria rubra, bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chinese fan palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Cordyline fruticosa, pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), South American cycad (Zamia furfuracea), spruces (Picea spp.), Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia subelliptica (Clusiaceae), giant Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), silver beech (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), Pandanus utilis, and nandina (Nandina domestica), among others. Herbaceous flowers include: Indian shot (Canna generalis), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), early chrysanthemum, shrimp begonia (Begonia maculata), marigold (Tagetes erecta), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), lycoris (Lycoris spp.), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), and dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), among others.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), banana shrub (Michelia spp.), magnolia (Magnolia spp.), manglietia (Manglietia spp.), buckeye (Aesculus spp.), summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus floridus), and Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), among others. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows, with the seed hilum facing down during sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer sweet shrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer sweet shrub, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, the other species must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), carnation (Dianthus chinensis), Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), petunia (Petunia hybrida), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), iris (Iris spp.), and verbena (Verbena hybrida), among others. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), primrose (Primula malacoides), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), and calceolaria (Calceolaria herbeohybrida), among others, can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia spp.), banana shrub (Michelia figo), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Weigela florida, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), snowball (Viburnum plicatum), weigela (Weigela florida), Brunfelsia acuminata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, golden vein justicia (Justicia aurea), coral flower (Cyrtanthera carnea), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera octophylla, and Cordyline fruticosa, among others. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood (Buxus spp.), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), spiraea (Spiraea spp.), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), snow spray (Spiraea thunbergii), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), French holly (Viburnum tinus), golden-edge privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), nandina (Nandina domestica), fig (Ficus carica), oleander (Nerium oleander), Serissa serissoides, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Chaenomeles speciosa, and tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), among others. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), and cold chrysanthemum, among others.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa); use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate Prunus triloba, ornamental peach (Prunus persica 'Duplex'), longevity peach (Prunus persica 'Densa'), red-leaf peach (Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea'), and plum blossom (Prunus mume), among others; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-moisture-retaining side-graft red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum') and laceleaf maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), among others; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) as rootstock and side-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat (Fortunella margarita), among others; use fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) as rootstock and side-graft osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans); use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock and side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela (Weigela florida), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), oleander (Nerium oleander), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), banana shrub (Michelia figo), camellia (Camellia japonica), Chloranthus spicatus, French holly (Viburnum tinus), snowball (Viburnum plicatum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), snow spray (Spiraea thunbergii), and spiraea (Spiraea spp.), among others.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), Rudbeckia laciniata, snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), Philodendron 'Little Angel', Philodendron 'Imperial Green' multi-head, Aglaonema commutatum, Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), nandina (Nandina domestica), Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Liriope platyphylla, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and big-leaf mondo grass (Ophiopogon jaburan), among others. In addition, hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa gesneriana), freesia (Freesia refracta), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), lycoris (Lycoris spp.), and Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), among others, can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of having good root balls. Species such as: oleander (Nerium oleander), Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), boxwood (Buxus spp.), goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), French holly (Viburnum tinus), red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), and Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), among others. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying, and shading management, to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted, for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), small dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), dwarf canna (Canna generalis), and early chrysanthemum, among others.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability, which is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in northern regions during the growing season. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: boxwood (Buxus spp.), French holly (Viburnum tinus), Photinia davidsoniae, privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), and golden-edge Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), among others. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese savin (Sabina chinensis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), boxwood (Buxus spp.), bayberry (Myrica rubra), Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex spp.), Photinia (Photinia spp.), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), and Forsythia viridissima, among others. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be topped and pinched include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and French marigold (Tagetes patula), among others. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days, to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue flowering for a long time, such as variety Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), floribunda rose (Rosa spp.), miniature rose (Rosa spp.), climbing rose (Rosa spp.), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), flowering pomegranate, lantana (Lantana camara), and bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), among others, spent flowers and faded stalks should be cut off in time, and the branches that have already flowered should be shortened back appropriately, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry, so continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of that year is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk, to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown, to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as goldenleaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), red-flowered Chinese fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), purple-leaf dwarf cherry (Prunus x cistena), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), and red-leaf peach (Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea'), among others, in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright at all times, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied appropriately. For ground-planted flower and tree species that continue flowering or are grown in autumn for flowers and fruits, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Calamondin orange (Citrus microcarpa), flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), Indian shot (Canna generalis), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), lantana (Lantana camara), nandina (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Ardisia crenata, and kumquat (Fortunella margarita), among others, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat (Fortunella margarita), silver osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans 'Latifolius'), and golden osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans 'Aurantiacus'), among others, which are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Disease and pest control. For the green slug moth harming flowers and trees such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), and crabapple (Malus spp.), spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), and crabapple (Malus spp.), insert poison sticks at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the magnolia family (Magnoliaceae). Such as Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), banana shrub (Michelia figo), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia multiflora, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), among others. In addition, there are buckeye (Aesculus spp.), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), lilac (Syringa oblata), crabapple (Malus spp.), redbud (Cercis chinensis), Exochorda racemosa, yew (Taxus chinensis), and shining wintersweet (Chimonanthus nitens), among others. Magnoliaceae as well as yew, buckeye, and crabapple, among others, must all be stored in wet sand after seed treatment until early the following spring, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold (Tagetes erecta), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), and China aster (Callistephus chinensis), among others. After collection, thresh in time and dry-store until the following spring for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month, change to watering once, with appropriate foliar spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is the period when most flowers and plants are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so fertilization management should be given great attention this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Dieffenbachia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with an exceptionally long flowering period or those whose peak bloom is in autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Lantana camara, five-color lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', sweet osmanthus, etc.; for fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya (Chaenomeles), golden bullet (Diospyros armata), Callicarpa, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and for colorful-foliage plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), golden-spotted aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), bromeliads, variegated ficus, golden-edged Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana'), Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides), etc., top-dress with fertilizers balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For Fuchsia, Pelargonium, calla lily (Zantedeschia), Cyclamen, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum, etc., which are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower-bud swelling, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom, Michelia figo, rhododendron, etc., top-dress with low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer types; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, marigold (Tagetes erecta), chrysanthemum, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., top-dress with a light fertilizer every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, kidney fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), bird's-nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta species, pothos, broadleaf lady palm, green emperor, silver queen, orchids, Dieffenbachia, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Anthurium 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Schefflera arboricola, variegated brake fern (Pteris), Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Green Giant', anthurium, staghorn fern (Platycerium), Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm (Archontophoenix), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, water willow (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak (Xylosma), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., full sunlight may be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), Chinese fringeflower, epiphyllum, heavenly bamboo, jade tree (Crassula ovata), rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading may be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, lantana, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower (Justicia), etc., prune after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), red machilus, Ligustrum sinense, water willow, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (stump), Sabina chinensis, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk (Tamarix), etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., insert poisoned sticks to block and kill them, or control them by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowering trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), red pine (Pinus densiflora), five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine, thorny elm (Hemiptelea davidii), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn, lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, crystal anthurium, anthurium, Clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm, Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm, king coconut (Roystonea), spotted stump tree, golden-spotted aucuba, Schefflera arboricola, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-mouth flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, golden-spotted aucuba, Schefflera arboricola, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Schefflera arboricola, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Aglaonema modestum, etc., can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats resting on a balcony water basin or water vat, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, they should also be misted more and watered less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion pot method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and care should be taken that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species that are gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to top-dress with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced multi-element compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium according to the different species. The types of top-dressing for flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an off-odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Ligustrum sinense, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, spent flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle (Semanotus bifasciatus) appearing on Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, and Juniperus chinensis bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya (Chaenomeles), longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poisoned sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), sweet osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree, Schefflera arboricola, variegated ficus, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, broadleaf lady palm, ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), golden-spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig (Ficus), fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful date palm (Phoenix), fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), Fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica), large Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, spotted stump tree, orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), heavenly bamboo, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, large-flowered canna (Canna generalis), dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia (Begonia), dragon's-mouth flower (Antirrhinum), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold, five-color pepper (Capsicum annuum), cockscomb (Celosia), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), petunia, Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), etc. Note: In North China, Northeast China and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, buckeye (Aesculus) species, summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus), richseed (Ardisia), soapberry (Sapindus), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, French holly (Viburnum tinus), Elaeocarpus, beautiful date palm, yew (Taxus), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), privet (Ligustrum), Ligustrum sinense, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Weigela, windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), etc. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer sweet shrub, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for summer sweet shrub and Weigela seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the other species can have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that seeds must be rinsed clean before storage and germination promotion; the sand's moisture content should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination-promotion process, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, snapdragon (Antirrhinum), Dianthus species, pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Iris domestica), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly, California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), petunia, cineraria (Pericallis), Chinese primrose (Primula sinensis), African daisy (Gerbera), calceolaria (Calceolaria), etc., can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed eupatorium, Schefflera arboricola, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), lantana, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum vicaryi), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia, Weigela, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), snow spray (Spiraea thunbergii), Hypericum, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), Chinese rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowering trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth, marigold, Begonia semperflorens, bamboo-node begonia, Tradescantia zebrina, golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Pilea, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Pachystachys lutea, cold chrysanthemum, etc. (This part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft five-needle pine (including 'Osaka' pine) and Japanese black pine; use peony roots as rootstock to graft fine varieties of tree peony; use 1-year-old trident maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft fine varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use three-edged arrow (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock to graft various ball cacti; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), weigela (Weigela florida), Chaenomeles speciosa, August sweet osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, Michelia figo, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora'), spray flower, spiraea, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hosta (Hosta), Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green emperor (Aglaonema), kidney fern, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia, spider lily (Lycoris), tulip, Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), etc.

Management of courtyard field-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent when leaves have fallen, such as rose of Sharon, redbud (Cercis chinensis), elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac (Syringa), red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, heavenly bamboo, Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia, large-leaf euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), boxleaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus bodinieri), etc., when transplanting: first, reduce-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox (Phlox drummondii), snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be field-planted include: narcissus (Narcissus tazetta), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the final pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged euonymus, large-leaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants requiring pruning include: Chinese juniper, boxwood (Buxus), bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously flowering field-planted flowering trees in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have flowered. For field-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off the open inflorescences to encourage the lateral shoots to continue producing and opening flowers, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowering trees of the current year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For field-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, top-dress with quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for sweet osmanthus that has already flowered, open a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for heavenly bamboo, firethorn, and southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet, etc., that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For boring pests appearing on field-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poisoned sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia chapensis, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, broadleaf lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful date palm, Chinese fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor tree, privet, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya (Chaenomeles), sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea (Camellia oleifera), etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple, trident maple, golden larch, dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Chinese tallow (Triadica sebifera), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), cotton rose, southern sour jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud, camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), Bischofia polycarpa, five-angle maple (Acer truncatum), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, cockscomb, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), China aster, garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), Kochia scoparia, strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum), cosmos, high mountain snow (Centaurea), painted euphorbia (Euphorbia heterophylla), mimosa (Mimosa pudica), dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their above-ground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and wait until the following spring to cut and divide them for planting.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, Cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne, Pelargonium, Fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them survive the winter safely. The best watering times are 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cooling, promptly top-dress with low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia, Cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to top-dress with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer, and appropriately top-dress with some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the plants' cold resistance; for fruit-viewing potted plants such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), richseed (Ardisia), golden bullet, etc., in early to mid-October, a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Dieffenbachia), Boston fern, Peperomia species, etc., during the 2 to 3 hours around noon, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out strong reduction pruning; for ties that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or untied and then re-tied, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing dead branches and leaves.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees and burn them after collecting them together. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum beetle, leaf-miner larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, boxleaf euonymus, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree species, when temperatures drop to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium, crystal anthurium, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as broadleaf lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut, Schefflera arboricola, etc. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera arboricola, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Aglaonema modestum, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', golden pothos, Pelargonium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera arboricola, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and misting the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's-nest fern, anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea/Maranta species, pothos, etc., all should be mainly misted and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, Cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella), lemon, Nandina, golden bullet, richseed, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., in early October, top-dress 1 to 2 times with thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to help them pass through the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, which should be given even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, they can be re-tied and fixed at a different binding position, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snow, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning field-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), Cyclamen, African daisy, Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: snowball viburnum, Ligustrum sinense, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Podocarpus nagi, Buddhist pine, soapberry, richseed (Ardisia crenata), windmill palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree species mainly for heat preservation and cold protection include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, 'Elizabeth' and other easy-to-root varieties), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Chinese elm, snow-in-summer, etc. Some of these root cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: boxleaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus bodinieri), large-leaf euonymus, silver-edged euonymus, Pilea, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum, Mahonia, golden-edged snow-in-summer, etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for field planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, bamboo-node begonia, (begonia), lotus-leaf begonia, Pelargonium, hibiscus, Fuchsia, jade tree, Portulacaria afra, red-backed eupatorium, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, etc., can also be propagated by cuttings, and can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc., can also be cut and stored, to be used for cuttings in the following spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, indoor bagging to graft red maple and feather maple; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Chinese rose ('Elizabeth' variety) as rootstock scion, and use branches of fine varieties of Chinese rose as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttage, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of fine Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, sweet osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, (Calocedrus), Michelia figo, snowball viburnum, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, (Lindera), Hypericum, Hypericum, Mahonia, butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony, broom (Cytisus), winter jasmine, Forsythia, jasmine orange (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), (bamboo), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Aglaonema modestum, Aspidistra elatior, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold, maple-leaf hibiscus (Abutilon), etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), five-needle pine, dawn redwood, flower cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese flower cypress, Japanese flat cypress, silk tree, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), camptotheca, eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, snowball viburnum. Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, Ligustrum sinense, windmill palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, wolfberry (Lycium), yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden (Tilia), giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya (Chaenomeles), crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduced or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches cut back, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, plum stump, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc., can be transplanted and potted up, placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc., should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist; it must not be too wet, because if temperatures are low and watering is excessive, plants easily rot at the roots and die. If indoor temperatures are higher, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary leaf misting.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, Nandina, winter coral, richseed, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the plants, to facilitate the swelling and growth of flower buds and also make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and rooms, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the leaf surfaces, so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In higher-temperature greenhouses and rooms, increase the amount of watering. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta, Dieffenbachia, green emperor, croton, silver queen, etc., control the amount of watering to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to water temperature being too low, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Western azalea (Rhododendron), camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Daphne, cineraria, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, colorful bromeliads, etc., can continue to top-dress with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer liquid, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop top-dressing, to help them enter normal dormancy and overwinter. For most field-planted flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunshanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, buckeye, camphor tree, spiraea, sweet osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, windmill palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia, peony, Hypericum, etc., bury dry cake fertilizer, with each plant using 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg; smaller plants can use less, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Sageretia thea, trident maple, oak (Xylosma), Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, snow-in-summer, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to build a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese rose that has not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 vigorous 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, strongly reduce-prune the current-year branches, except for retaining several thick branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to facilitate the growth of more vigorous new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

Common flowering trees in flowerbeds, along streets, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, sweet osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut off all those irregular branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, thick palm trees can be stripped of palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flowering tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, bottle orchid (Aglaonema), bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, broadleaf lady palm, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea/Maranta, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-lobed philodendron (Philodendron), Aglaia odorata, croton, Pachystachys lutea, Pachystachys lutea, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', green emperor, silver queen, frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter with double-layer plastic tunnels.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, azalea (Rhododendron), pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxleaf euonymus, Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, (Calocedrus), Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pot in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather is encountered, additional film and soft straw can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai kept in polytunnels, greenhouses or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be carried out properly. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being shut indoors for long periods, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, take care never to let the plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering plants prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses and camellias, chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stumps.

For whiteflies, scale insects and similar pests appearing on potted flowering plants placed in greenhouses or polytunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in polytunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mould is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main plant species suitable for shaping as bonsai are: Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, Sawara cypress, procumbent juniper, Euonymus pendulus, serissa, plum, wintersweet, oak, Chinese holly, holly, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, Hall crabapple and others.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deeper constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted anew.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn and Elaeagnus, after initial root trimming, trunk cutting and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial, high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have been cultivated and shaped for 1 to 2 years and have basically taken form, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, and pair them with fist-sized stones and dotted moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper and spectabilis crabapple, in November select fitting pots and plant them, strengthen water management, and they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south, temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, and heavy frost occurs frequently. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, polytunnels and homes; second, do a good job of pruning and cleaning open-ground flowers and trees and of turning and fertilizing the soil; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry and African daisy; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: plum (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e); Chinese rose (mainly easily rooting cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose and miniature rose); redleaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea and boxwood species. Among these, plum and redleaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve warmth and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, mother of thousands, kalanchoe, Pachystachys, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, bleeding heart vine, Lantana, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos and Cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, sawara cypress, serissa, firethorn, silver willow and Triadica. In addition, branches of trumpet creeper, lilac and grape can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum and peach sown that year; dig up the rootstock, then use cleft grafting or cut grafting, and plant them on the seedbed at a certain row spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film to preserve warmth and moisture; in the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; or use vigorous branch sections of the Elizabeth rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted Elizabeth branch sections into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and warmth; in the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film, and only after it has fully survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, spectabilis crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Kerria, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red woodsorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, mother of thousands and Chinese evergreen. When cutting off the basal offsets from large spotted-leaf bromeliad plants, the small plants must already have grown on the mother plant for three or four months, otherwise the colorful bands of the separated offsets easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, spectabilis crabapple, rhapis palm, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly species, camphor tree and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and raising seedlings the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flowerbeds in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in polytunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholartree and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea and holly. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, carry a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering plants that can be potted in December include: plum, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, spectabilis crabapple and Hall crabapple. Place them in polytunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, continue placing potted hyacinths, tulips and pheasant's eye narcissus in polytunnels for flower forcing, which can bring them into bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic polytunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, chamaedorea, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic polytunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink lady, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, bleeding heart vine, Pachystachys, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, sago palm, red (green) jewel, Oncidium and Cymbidium hookerianum, inside well-sealed double-layer polytunnels they still need appropriate heating, and during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, cover the top of the polytunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, water willow, Chinese holly and Fraxinus chinensis, they generally will not freeze when temperatures are not lower than -10°C; in particularly cold weather, add a covering of plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or homes, besides maintaining a suitable indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation, and doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be sure not to let cold drafts blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is rather low and watering is excessive, it easily causes root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth and European narcissus, and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season mandarin, golden bean, winter cherry, Ardisia crenata and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also to increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady, Syngonium, Maranta, croton and silver queen, when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is best set in the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary polytunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it very easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering plants, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, cherry, redleaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet creeper, banksian rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress species, weeping pagoda tree, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud and rose of Sharon, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the root system, with types such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum, wintersweet, Pachystachys, shrimp plant, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, spectabilis crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip and freesia, continue topdressing with 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution, to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November; hedge and green wall types such as privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum sinense, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus and Photinia davidsoniae; ball types such as Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, Forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper and Chinese juniper; while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For open-ground flowering plants that were not pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, redleaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury and apply fertilizer around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repot them together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering plants whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, for the former use triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl for control in good time, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl for control.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and polytunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then use pesticides such as Supracide for control.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowering plants such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug and felt scale; at this time spray with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos and buprofezin, and phytotoxicity is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the need for raising seedlings and mixing potting soil next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea seed cake into water vats or ponds, add water and seal for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in layers alternating with garden soil, set fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix and compost stable manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing nursery stock and mixing potting soil next year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Use the idle winter time to find an open space or a spot under tree shade and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to meet the need for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile it indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out nursery stock, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out nursery stock, cake fertilizer, stable manure and pond mud can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being, and after overwintering and freezing the clods, draw furrows and make beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, sawara cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, Sawara cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, shimpaku, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, spectabilis crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus chinensis and oak.

For bonsai plants fixed by training with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used anew for tying and guiding.

For open-ground shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper and crape myrtle, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select fitting pots and plant them, strengthen management, so they can be used next year for display in public places or homes.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, management must be careful: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants grown on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a spot that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "third nine-day period", and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north moves south frequently, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers and bonsai in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes, followed by tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil, preparing potting soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown in open ground outdoors include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum (cultivars such as Lü'e and Gongfen), redleaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda and miniature), cherry, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triadica, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine and jasmine. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, mother of thousands, Rieger begonia, bleeding heart vine, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, Excoecaria, Chinese evergreen, pothos and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree and fig can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, and cover with plastic film to preserve warmth and protect against cold. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft to propagate four-season mandarin and kumquat; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, using the Elizabeth rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, carrying out grafting and cutting at the same time, and cover with plastic film to preserve warmth and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum, weigela, gardenia, spectabilis crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Kerria, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, violet zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Chinese evergreen, mother of thousands, bromeliads, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, spectabilis crabapple, rhapis palm, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, gardenia, Triadica, boxwood and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after collection; mature winter cherry seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species and Ardisia crenata can be picked, and after treatment stored in sand for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species and photinia species, to see whether the seeds have mildewed; if mildew appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed and washed again, and clean fine sand replaced for storage anew; if the seeds are found to be dry, give timely supplementary spraying; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film, straw or pine needles to preserve warmth and moisture.

II. Transplanting and planting out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in not-too-cold regions include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold and daisy; in relatively cold regions, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy and primrose can be potted and first placed in simple plastic polytunnels, and used for street flowerbeds, green spaces and flower borders after spring returns and the weather warms.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triadica, Chinese rose, Chinese scholartree and weeping pagoda tree. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum sinense, except in special cases, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered places, with heavy cutback after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also possible.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in the regions south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild stumps during the process of forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen stumps, such as nandina, cat's-spine holly, Chinese holly and oak, heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, the shallow-burial, high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains added to protect against freezing.

III. Cold protection

This month's work of cold protection and heat preservation is the top priority in management, and the slightest negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a polytunnel, in a home, or buried in open ground. In simple plastic polytunnels not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, nandina, aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, sago palm, Acorus, bamboo palm and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic polytunnels not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, chamaedorea, Diospyros armata, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea and Lantana. In double-layer plastic polytunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) jewel, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, sago palm, desert rose, pink lady, poinsettia, Pachystachys and coral flower; during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the polytunnel with straw curtains, and only after the temperature turns warmer may the covering be stopped. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of the heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it very easily causes freeze damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, holly and Fraxinus chinensis, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots, and when temperatures are not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, add a covering of plastic film or soft grass for warmth.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamentals, besides maintaining a suitable air temperature, ventilation should also be done properly, and doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold drafts blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and polytunnels during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass or torn film is found, plug and repair it in good time, so as to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or polytunnel, to prevent smoke damage and other causes from causing flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of extra light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, spectabilis crabapple, Hall crabapple and winter jasmine can also be placed in polytunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering plants during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus and freesia that were placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    For potted flower watering management in January, first and most importantly, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it very easily causes adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. Watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes, keep the potting soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is rather low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to giving foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady, Syngonium, Maranta and croton, when the temperature approaches the lowest limit the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe and pot marigold, and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean and winter cherry, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also to increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and to give timely supplementary watering to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, Buddhist pine, cherry, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, Forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, redleaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksian rose, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan fir, deodar cedar, Chinese scholartree, weeping pagoda tree, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate and loquat, if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond mud and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, spectabilis crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise and crab cactus, continue topdressing with low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to favor plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants and bonsai placed in polytunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it very easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksian rose, trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, redleaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum, palm and grape, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the roots, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and disease control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaved species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry and redleaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape and crape myrtle, gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug and thread scale appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet and photinia, spray with high concentrations of Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin and lime sulfur mixture, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mould appearing at the same time on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mould patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea seed cake into water ponds or vats for soaking and fermentation, so they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches and fallen leaves in layers alternating with garden soil, set fire and burn them to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix and compost stable manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure with garden soil, and it can be used as fertilizer for mixing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and freezing the clods

For nursery land not yet turned over in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer and farmyard manure, and after overwintering and freezing the clods, draw furrows and make beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting out nursery stock.

Because January is particularly cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, Sawara cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, shimpaku, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, Euonymus pendulus, banyan and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic polytunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which favors the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding points, the original binding material should be removed, and training and guiding should be carried out anew.

    In January, for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant's fibrous roots, which can also lead to the disintegration of artificially cemented rocks, and also prevent the plants grown on the small stones from freezing to death; it is advisable to place them in a spot that does not freeze, and water and spray them regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

Introduction to October Flower Care Knowledge

Flowers suitable for courtyard display. In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C.

This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which the woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron plant, Chinese grey fagraea, Lanyu cinnamon, sweet osmanthus, cotton rose hibiscus, rubber tree, schefflera, variegated ficus, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, bamboo palm, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted laurel, thick-leaf ficus, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, fukugi, giant Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, orchid tree (Aglaia), white orchid (Michelia alba), bagasse tree, orange jasmine, heavenly bamboo, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower, peacock grass, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. Note: In North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.
Cultivation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer calycanthus, rich seed, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), French holly, elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew, Chinese fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor tree, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. When sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward; before sowing summer calycanthus, the seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for summer calycanthus and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until sowing the following spring, all other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in moist sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, then sow. Note that before storage and germination promotion, seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and breaks apart when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, musk mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, Chinese primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.
2. Cuttings Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-back fagraea, schefflera, night jasmine, lantana, firethorn, mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, cordyline, Michelia, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, pearl orchid (Chloranthus), red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela florida, snowball (Hydrangea), red-flowered spiraea, snow spray (Spiraea), hypericum, red-leaf plum, rose, viburnum, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, chaenomeles, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, four-season begonia, bamboo-node begonia, inch plant, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp flower, golden vein acanthus, winter chrysanthemum, etc. Succulent flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: jade plant, lotus palm, crab cactus, epiphyllum, portulacaria, etc.
3. Grafting Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and moisture-retain to graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and tortoise-shell pine; using peony roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of tree peony; using 1-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and moisture-retain to graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; using 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft various cactus ball types; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.
4. Layering Flower species that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela florida, hydrangea, weigela, chaenomeles, August osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), viburnum, purple magnolia, gardenia, hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, forsythia, Michelia, snow spray (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea, etc.
5. Division Flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, broadleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, chaenomeles, snowball (Hydrangea), double-flowered kerria, spray flower, spiraea, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta, spring orchid, purple hosta, bird of paradise, cymbidium, Jian lan (Cymbidium ensifolium), ranunculus, black-eyed Susan, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, multi-head green philodendron, sword fern, aspidistra, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, lycoris, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, etc.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent when leaves have fallen, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved spirea, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as broadleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Sichuan cypress, dragon juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, little-leaf boxwood, and Korean boxwood, when transplanting: first, prune back before transplanting; second, carry a soil ball; third, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flowers that can be planted out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, rain lily, dwarf lilyturf, and ribbon grass, etc. Bulbous flowers that can be ground-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.
2. Pruning Carry out the final pruning of the year for hedges and topiary balls in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered Photinia, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, little-leaf boxwood, French holly, privet, photinia, small-leaf privet, etc. Topiary balls requiring pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, bayberry, holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowers in the courtyard, such as rose, crape myrtle, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately prune back branches that have bloomed. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off opened inflorescences to encourage lateral shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the viewing period.
3. Watering For newly planted courtyard flowers this year, continue watering and spraying: first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue spraying water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for osmanthus that has already bloomed, dig ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for pruned rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose hibiscus, as well as camellia, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for heavenly bamboo and firethorn in fruit-viewing state, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet, etc., appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer by watering, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.
5. Pest and disease control For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep, collect and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture on the trunks.
6. Seed collection Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), soapberry, horse chestnut, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, mountain magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, deep-mountain Michelia, red-flowered manglietia, broad-petal Michelia, pond cypress, bamboo palm, coral ardisia, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor tree, privet, small-leaf privet, viburnum, weeping crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea, etc. These seeds must all be stored in moist sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose hibiscus, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, bishop wood, five-angle maple, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, peacock grass, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock, kochia, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain, painted euphorbia, mimosa, dancing grass, etc.
In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their above-ground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them the following spring. CourtyardManagement of potted flowers
1. Watering Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, aspidistra, monstera, pothos, syngonium, Chinese grey fagraea, Lanyu cinnamon, green giant, red gem, etc., water once a day on sunny days, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, portulacaria, daphne, geranium, fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and spray more water to help their buds expand. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering to accelerate the lignification of new shoots, helping them survive the winter safely. The best time for watering is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.
2. Fertilizing For summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, black orchid, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue applying a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the plant's cold resistance; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, rich seed, golden bullet, etc., apply a small amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in early to mid-October.
3. Shading For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as dieffenbachia, monstera, maranta species, syngonium, green gem, Boston fern, pepperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.
4. Pruning For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first prune off dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out strong pruning back; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of branches and causing dead branches and leaves.
5. Cold protection In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.
6. Pest and disease control Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers, collect them together and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms and other pests. Potted plants suitable for balcony display In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air; only those potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, tortoise-shell pine, Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, water willow, Chinese ash, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, little-leaf boxwood, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf ficus, ginkgo, rose, jasmine, orchid tree (Aglaia), sago palm, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower species can no longer remain on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as cymbidium, crystal anthurium, nerve plant, cattleya, phalaenopsis, oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as bamboo palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut, variegated schefflera, schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers can no longer be placed on the balcony. Cultivation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting medium of rice husk ash and moist sand at 1/2 each, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting medium, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, pearl orchid (Chloranthus), Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp flower, Chinese hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan tree, rubber tree, schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, orchid tree (Aglaia), white orchid (Michelia alba), jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for species that have already formed buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, tea camellia, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, while spraying water on branches and leaves can effectively promote bud expansion. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as monstera, philodendron, little angel, aspidistra, cordyline, bird's nest fern, anthurium, money tree (Zamioculcas), maranta species, pothos, etc., spraying should be primary and watering secondary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.
2. Fertilizing For potted flower species recovering from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as cymbidium, bromeliad, Chinese cymbidium, etc., apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing types such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, heavenly bamboo, golden bullet, rich seed, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue applying a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer; for orchid tree (Aglaia), white orchid (Michelia alba), pearl orchid (Chloranthus), jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.
3. Shading In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc. This is especially important for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai. For some shade-loving foliage plants, during 3 to 4 hours around noon on clear days, they can be moved indoors. Sunshade netting installed in summer can be removed after mid-October.
4. Pruning In mid-to-late October, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out on tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, banyan tree, Fujian tea, oriental arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese ash, etc. For metal or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, first untie them; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, change to a new binding position and re-bind and fix, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers, such as rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, chaenomeles, weeping crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.
5. Pest and disease control In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves from all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture on the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.