How to grow Episcia, and what is its relationship to the lipstick plant?
Episcia, this plant is super likeable, and this Episcia is just that likeable. How to grow Episcia: Episcia and the lipstick plant are relatives, so the flowers are somewhat similar, and the leaf colors and flower colors are both very rich. You will know just by looking at the pictures below, and the varieties are also very rich. It is good for both foliage and flowers.
Episcia, this plant is super likeable, and this Episcia is just that likeable. How to grow Episcia:
Episcia and the lipstick plant are relatives, so the flowers are somewhat similar, and the leaf colors and flower colors are both very rich. You will know just by looking at the pictures below, and the varieties are also very rich. It is good for both foliage and flowers. As long as the temperature is suitable, it can bloom in spring, summer and autumn.
Care is relatively simple, but it must be protected from the cold. Its cold tolerance is very low, and it must be kept at a temperature above 15°C all year round. Friends in the north can only grow it indoors if they want to keep it, and cold protection in winter is a problem.
Apart from not tolerating cold, its other conditions are easy to meet. Give it loose, well-drained soil, preferably mixed with about 1/3 river sand. Of course, sphagnum moss or perlite can also be used instead. It is not picky about soil fertility.
Remember to use a container with good drainage, and use a shallow pot. Its root system is very shallow, and a deep pot easily causes waterlogging and root rot.
Other care points are to maintain relatively high environmental humidity, frequently spray water around it, and avoid the environment being too dry, otherwise the plant easily wilts.
Keep it in a spot with some scattered light or shade. It likes a relatively ventilated environment, and an environment that is too enclosed easily makes it wilt.
It easily produces runners. If you directly place a small pot under a runner and press it into the soil, you can easily propagate new plants.
Tips:
Some red Episcia with enviable color grow especially slowly because they lack chlorophyll. Do not force it to grow.
That is all for the introduction to Episcia growing methods. Isn't it super simple? Hurry and grow a few plants at home.
Introduction to the succulent plant Little Red Lips and how to grow Little Red Lips
Succulent plants are now one of the plants very loved by flower enthusiasts. Below, the editor introduces a very cute and distinctive succulent plant, Little Red Lips. Let's take a look at the introduction to the succulent plant Little Red Lips and how to grow Little Red Lips.
Introduction to the succulent plant Little Red Lips
Little Red Lips belongs to the genus Conophytum in the family Aizoaceae, and is also called lipstick. Its blue-green smiling little lips are especially appealing.
Little Red Lips seedlings are relatively difficult to care for, and it likes a climate with warm winters and cool summers. Every year from March to April, when new spherical leaves grow, the old spherical leaves gradually shrink. In summer, the new spherical leaves grow thicker and thicker, always maintaining 2 spherical leaves. Little Red Lips originates from rock crevices or gravelly soil in the arid regions of southern Africa and southwestern Africa. Little Red Lips blooms in summer.
1. Morphological characteristics
Little Red Lips is a perennial small succulent plant, or degenerates into scales, and often has no stipules. The stem is very short and often invisible. The modified leaves are thick and fleshy, and two opposite leaves join to form an inverted cone. There are many varieties, each with its own characteristics.
Little Red Lips flowers are bisexual, regular, solitary, or axillary dichasial cymes or terminal single-branched cymes. The perianth is in 1 whorl, formed by 4 to 5 separate or united leathery, green sepals.
The stamens are basically 5 in number, but often split into many, and the outermost ones are often sterile and petal-like. The filaments are separate or united into several bundles, or united into a single body at the base; the pistil is basically formed by 3 to 5 carpels united, the ovary is superior or inferior, 1 to 5 locules (occasionally up to 20 locules). Each locule has many ovules, rarely one, anatropous or campylotropous. The fruit is a capsule or berry-like.
Little Red Lips has a plump body and red little lips. Lithops that are 3 to 4 years old bloom in autumn from the gap between the opposite leaves, with yellow, white, pink and other colored flowers. A single flower can bloom for 3 to 7 days. When blooming, the flower almost covers the entire plant, very delicate and beautiful. And some varieties will branch and form clusters after reaching a certain age.
2. Molting characteristics
On a clear afternoon, the corolla of Little Red Lips is usually very large, and can even cover the entire plant body. In the evening, the petals gradually close. This opening by day and closing by night lasts about 7 days. After the flowers fade, after being nurtured through winter, it begins its once-a-year division and molting in the following spring.
At that time, the new plant pushes out from the encirclement of the old plant and emerges from the crack at the top of the leaves. During molting, the old plant provides nutrients for the growth of the new plant, while it gradually shrinks into a layer of dry skin, and is finally burst open by the new plant and completely shed. Generally, after molting, Lithops will grow one or two new plants, and a few grow 3 plants. After molting, Lithops gradually enters the summer dormancy period, and so on repeatedly.
3. Ecological habits
Little Red Lips seedlings are relatively difficult to care for, and it likes a climate with warm winters and cool summers. Every year from March to April, when new spherical leaves grow, the old spherical leaves gradually shrink. In summer, the new spherical leaves grow thicker and thicker. In winter, place it in a sunny spot for care. If it encounters low temperatures or too much shade, the spherical leaves will not grow well and will gradually wrinkle.
Little Red Lips likes a climate with warm winters and cool summers. It likes warm, dry and sunny environments. It fears low temperatures and avoids strong light. It likes sufficient sunlight, and the suitable growth temperature is 10 to 30°C. It is suitable for growing in loose neutral sandy loam. Remember to appropriately reduce water in winter and summer to help with molting.
4. Cultivation techniques
Every year from March to April, when Little Red Lips grows new spherical leaves, the old spherical leaves gradually shrink. In summer, the new spherical leaves grow thicker and thicker, always maintaining 2 spherical leaves. During the growth period, it needs more water, but it must not be too wet, as it easily grows moss, which affects the normal growth of the spherical leaves. At the same time, fertilize once every half month, but the fertilizer solution must never contaminate the spherical leaves.
After flowering in autumn, pause fertilizing. In winter, place it in a sunny spot for care. If it encounters low temperatures or too much shade, the spherical leaves will not grow well and will gradually wrinkle. Around potted Little Red Lips, brightly colored pebbles can be placed, which both provide support and increase the ornamental effect.
1. Watering
When Little Red Lips forms a ball, keeping it moist is ideal (for plants in the molting period with more old skin, note that after watering it is not easy to dry). Due to constraints of time and labor, watering from above should be chosen on sunny days, and ventilation should be provided when conditions allow. Note that single-headed plants or plants with too many heads should not use this method. If the light level is 10, then for Conophytum it is 8. Considering the different forms and sizes of Conophytum, light should also be treated separately. Generally, large types need stronger light, and small types need weaker light.
2. Light
For Little Red Lips, consider it based on the color of the body, or further consider the relationship between sunlight and flower color: yellow and white reflect the most light. Varieties with such flower colors in their native habitat must grow under fairly strong light. Next are brown flowers, peach flowers, red flower varieties, and so on, followed by the purple-flowered series. According to their respective habits, take appropriate shading measures. Lithops commonly has white-flowered and yellow-flowered lines. Among Conophytum, large types with yellow flowers can be arranged according to the light requirements of Lithops. Varieties whose flower colors are difficult to reflect light should be appropriately shaded.
Insufficient sunlight during the growth period will cause the plant's varietal characteristics to degenerate, changing its shape and color. It is also a cause of weakening and rot.
3. Medium use
The medium for cultivating Little Red Lips can be a little more fertile than that for Lithops. It is recommended to use 1/3 leaf mold soil, 1/3 mineral sand, and 1/3 garden soil mixed as the medium. You can also use high-quality peat soil, coarse sand with a diameter of 1 to 2 mm, pumice or other media made from volcanic lava (particles smaller than 4 mm) mixed together. You can also use akadama soil, kanuma soil, and hyuga soil mixed together to cultivate Little Red Lips.
How to grow Little Red Lips
1. Management and care
Little Red Lips is an indoor flower and should be kept in a greenhouse all year round. It is not suitable for open-air planting or field planting. For pot cultivation, bricks should also be used to raise the pot or it should be placed on a stand or platform of a certain height, to avoid the pot being submerged by water entering the greenhouse during heavy rain, causing the plant to rot.
2. Repotting
Repotting and planting of Little Red Lips are both carried out in autumn. When repotting, take the plant out of the soil, shake off the soil around the roots, and try not to damage the fine roots. For dried old roots and rotten root systems, cut them off, and then plant with new culture soil. You can plant Lithops of the same variety, or even different varieties, in one larger pot, or plant each plant separately in a small pot. The potting soil should be loose, breathable, well-drained, and have a relatively coarse particle size. You can mix 2 parts humus soil, 3 parts coarse river sand or vermiculite, and add a small amount of bone meal as base fertilizer and fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. You can also use akadama soil, xian soil and other artificial synthetic materials for planting, with very good results, but the production cost is relatively high.
3. Water and fertilizer
Spring from February to April is the molting period of Lithops. At this time, fertilizing should be stopped and watering controlled, so that the original old skin dries up as early as possible. Some people like to peel off the old skin by hand when the plant begins to show signs of molting, so that the small plant inside can see sunlight as soon as possible, which is beneficial to growth and development and makes it short, strong and compact. However, inexperienced growers may injure the young plant when peeling, so it should be done carefully. When molting is basically over, apply a compound fertilizer once more to make it grow robustly.
Watering time is generally at night or in the early morning when the temperature is lower. Do not water during the day when the temperature is higher, to avoid harming the plant due to a sudden drop in temperature. During cultivation, avoid rain, especially long-term rain or heavy rain, otherwise excessive water absorption will cause the top of the plant to split.
4. Light and soil
Little Red Lips grows slowly or stops completely during high summer temperatures. Under well-ventilated conditions, give sufficient light, and after the soil has completely dried out, water a small amount. If the soil is not breathable and the cultivation environment is poorly ventilated, it will also cause the plant to rot. If cultivated in a poorly ventilated greenhouse in summer, avoid direct strong light and control watering, or even cut off water completely, so that the plant goes dormant in a dry environment and gets through the hot summer.
In midsummer, provide appropriate shade and avoid direct strong light. At the same time, strengthen ventilation in the cultivation site, thereby lowering its temperature and humidity, and provide as much as possible an environment suitable for Little Red Lips to pass the summer safely. Fourth, during the summer period, do not move the plant casually, to avoid affecting its safe passage through summer due to changes in the micro-environment. During the summer period, do not move the plant casually, to avoid affecting its safe passage through summer due to changes in the micro-environment.
In autumn, the temperature is cool and the temperature difference between day and night is relatively large. This is the main growth period of Little Red Lips and also its flowering season, requiring sufficient sunlight. If there is insufficient light, the plant will become leggy, the fleshy leaves will become thin and tall, the markings at the top will be inconspicuous, and it will be difficult to bloom. For watering, follow the principle of “do not water until dry, and water thoroughly when watering.” Apply a diluted decomposed liquid fertilizer about once every 20 days, or place a small amount of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium compound fertilizer in the soil for slow absorption.
5. Photosynthetic morphology
At night, CO2 in the atmosphere enters the cytoplasm through stomata, is catalyzed by phosphoenolpyruvate (PEP) carboxylase, combines with PEP to form oxaloacetic acid, and is then reduced to malic acid by malate dehydrogenase and stored in vacuoles, with its concentration reaching up to 100 millimoles per liter. The entry of malic acid from the cytoplasm into the vacuole through the tonoplast is an active process, while returning from the vacuole to the cytoplasm is a passive process.
During the day, after malic acid is released from the vacuole, it undergoes decarboxylation to form CO2 and C3 compounds (see C4 plants). Two decarboxylases can catalyze this reaction.
In some plants, NADP (coenzyme II)- or NAD (coenzyme I)-malic enzyme catalyzes oxidative decarboxylation, forming CO2 and pyruvate. In other plants, PEP carboxykinase catalyzes the formation of oxaloacetic acid, and decarboxylation produces CO2 and PEP. After CO2 is produced, it is fixed again through the photosynthetic carbon cycle, ultimately forming starch and other carbohydrates. Under weak light, especially when the temperature is high, a portion of the CO2 will be released into the atmosphere.
Rose R. chinensis Rose guide: how to grow roses / how to propagate roses
Rose profileRose R. chinensis
Aliases: Yueyuehong, Gengshen rose, four-season flower, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Yueyuehua, Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke
Classification: shrub flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledoneae, Rosales, Rosaceae, Rosa
Full bloom period: all seasons
Rose, known as the queen of flowers, also called "Yueyuehong", Rosaceae. An evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all seasons, mostly red, occasionally white. It can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, and is also called Chinese rose. Its natural flowering period is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese rose include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, groundcover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have become a must-give gift between lovers and have become the theme of love poetry. Chinese rose (scientific name: Rosa chin...
How to grow Chinese rose and precautions Introduction to Chinese rose
Rose, known as the queen of flowers, also called "Yueyuehong", Rosaceae. An evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all seasons, mostly red, occasionally white. It can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, and is also called Chinese rose. Its natural flowering period is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese rose include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, groundcover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have become a must-give gift between lovers and have become the theme of love poetry.
Chinese rose (scientific name: Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong (Jiangsu and Zhejiang), Yueyuehua, Changchunhua (Changchun, Jilin), Gengshen rose, is native to Guizhou, Hubei, Sichuan and other places in central China, and is now found all over the world. It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an and Liuzhou, and the national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
Its natural flowering period is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Chinese rose include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, groundcover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Chinese rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Wuhu, Handan, Shijiazhuang and other cities. Red cut flowers have become one of the must-give gifts between lovers and have become the theme of love poetry. Chinese rose has good antifungal activity and synergistic activity against drug-resistant fungi.
Morphological characteristics of Chinese rose
Chinese rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or no prickles, but there are also Chinese roses with almost no prickles. The branchlets are green, and the leaves are dark green, alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves. The leaflets are generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, with acuminate apices and sharp teeth, serrate leaf margins, hairless on both sides, smooth; the stipules are adnate to the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, with the apex separated into auricles.
The flowers grow at the top of the branches. The flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary. There are many flower colors, with different shades, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double-flowered, and some single-flowered; the sepals are caudate and long-acuminate, with pinnate lobes at the margins; the styles are separate, extending out of the mouth of the calyx tube, as long as the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the reputation of being the queen of flowers. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The flowering period is from April to October (north) and from March to November (south). It blooms most in spring. Most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. The fleshy rose hip is red-yellow when mature, with the top splitting open. The "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. The fruit is ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, and the sepals fall off.
1. Flower: The flowers grow at the top of the stem, solitary or clustered. There are single, semi-double and double forms, with rich flower colors and diverse flower shapes.
2. Fruit: The fruit of Chinese rose is spherical or pear-shaped. It is green before maturity, and the mature fruit is orange-red. It contains 5 to 14 bony achenes (seeds).
3. Seed: The outer layer of the Chinese rose seed is the pericarp. The pericarp has inner and outer layers. The outer layer is a bony layer, very hard; the inner layer is a fibrous layer, with fibers interwoven vertically and horizontally, very tough. The seed coat is a very thin membranous layer, tightly wrapping the embryo. There is a certain gap between the pericarp and the seed coat.
4. Leaf: It is an odd-pinnate compound leaf; leaflets 3 to 7, ovate or oblong; leaf margins serrate, [1] most varieties have smooth and glossy leaf surfaces (some varieties are rough and dull), and most varieties are purplish-red when the leaves first unfold, then gradually turn green.
5. Stem: The primary stem of Chinese rose is purplish-red, the young stem is green, and the old stem is grayish-brown; the stem bears sharp and upright prickles, and the density of prickles varies by variety.
6. Root: The morphology of the Chinese rose root system is closely related to the propagation method. Seedlings have obvious main roots and strong lateral roots; seedlings propagated by cuttings only have lateral roots, no main root, and the number of lateral roots is relatively small, with poor vitality.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub, 1-2 m tall. Stems upright; branchlets spreading, green, hairless, with curved prickles or no prickles. Pinnate compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, rarely 7, 10-15 cm long including the petiole. Leaflets broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, 1.5-3 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or broadly cuneate, margin with sharp fine serrations, surface bright green, hairless on both sides. The terminal leaflet has a long petiole, the lateral leaflets have shorter petioles. The petiole and rachis have sparse glandular hairs and fine prickles; the stipules have ciliate glandular hairs or pinnate lobes at the margins, hairless on both sides, and are adnate to the petiole at the base. Flowers several, clustered or solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, pedicels 3-5 cm long, green, often with glandular hairs; the receptacle is nearly spherical, the calyx lobes triangular-ovate, apex caudate-acuminate, entire or pinnately divided, hairless outside, short tomentose inside and at the margins; petals double, dark red, pink, rarely white; stamens numerous; styles free, ovary pubescent. Rose hip spherical, yellow-red, 1.5-2 cm in diameter, calyx lobes persistent. In the north, April to October; in the south, March to November.
Chinese rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or no prickles, but there are also Chinese roses with almost no prickles. The branchlets are green, and the leaves are dark green, alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves. The leaflets are generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, with acuminate apices and sharp teeth, serrate leaf margins, hairless on both sides, smooth; the stipules are adnate to the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, with the apex separated into auricles.
The flowers grow at the top of the branches. The flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary. There are many flower colors, with different shades, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double-flowered, and some single-flowered; the sepals are caudate and long-acuminate, with pinnate lobes at the margins; the styles are separate, extending out of the mouth of the calyx tube, as long as the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the reputation of being the queen of flowers. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The flowering period is from April to October (north) and from March to November (south). It blooms most in spring. Most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. The fleshy rose hip is red-yellow when mature, with the top splitting open. The "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. The fruit is ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, and the sepals fall off.
Ecological habits of Chinese rose
It has strong adaptability, is cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, and has no strict requirements for soil, but it is best in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and well-drained. The potting soil should be loose, the pot diameter appropriate, moisture moderate, fertilizer applied lightly and frequently, flowers picked and branches pruned, pests and diseases prevented and controlled, and the pot changed every year. It likes sunlight, but too much direct strong light is unfavorable to flower bud development, and the petals easily scorch. It likes warmth. Generally, 22 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for flower growth. High summer temperatures are unfavorable for flowering.
It needs sufficient sunlight, air circulation, good drainage and a wind-sheltered environment, and appropriate shading in midsummer. For most varieties, the optimum temperature is 15 to 26°C during the day and 10 to 15°C at night. It is relatively cold-tolerant, and enters dormancy when the winter temperature is below 5°C. If the summer high temperature continues above 30°C, most varieties bloom less, quality decreases, and they enter a semi-dormant state.
General varieties can tolerate a low temperature of -15°C. It requires slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, fertile, loose, but has a relatively wide adaptability to soil. The relative air humidity is preferably 75% to 80%, but slightly dry or slightly wet is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and no pollution. If ventilation is poor, it is prone to powdery mildew. Harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, fluoride, etc., are all toxic to Chinese rose.
Distribution area of Chinese rose
China is one of the places of origin of Chinese rose. Modern Chinese roses have extremely complex blood relationships.
Chinese rose is the city flower of Zhengzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nanyang, Dalian, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Bengbu, Jiaozuo, Putian, Qingdao, Weifang, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Anqing, Ji'an, Huai'an, Huaibei, Huainan, Jiaonan, Nanchang, Yichang, Xuchang, Changzhou, Taizhou, Cangzhou, Suzhou, Hengyang, Shaoyang, Fuyang, Xinyang, Deyang, Tianshui, Dongtai and other cities. Among them, Laizhou City and Shiqiao Town in Nanyang City are the "hometown of Chinese rose", and Shuyang in Jiangsu is the largest Chinese rose production base in East China. Among them, Chinese roses produced in Laizhou, Shandong, Shuyang, Jiangsu, and Nanyang, Henan, are famous at home and abroad.
Cultivation techniques of Chinese rose: flowering period control
Chinese rose is also called "Yueyuehong". Its natural flowering period is from May to November, with continuous flowering. However, during the Olympics, flowering period control of Chinese rose is still very important. In particular, potted Chinese roses and cut-flower Chinese roses must have their flowering period well controlled, in order to successfully complete the temporary flower display tasks at various venues and stadiums during the Olympics and the fresh cut flower supply tasks.
In actual work, analyze specific situations individually. For field-planted Chinese roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, make them bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all spent flowers and some already fully blooming flower branches of field-planted Chinese roses by 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature part in the middle of the flower branch. Their flowering ornamental period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all spent flowers and all flower branches after full bloom by the above method. Their flowering ornamental period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune spent flowers at any time to let them bloom naturally. For potted Chinese roses and cut-flower Chinese roses, calculate the flower use date well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.
Fertilizer and water management: In the pruning under the above various situations, scientific fertilizer and water management should be carried out in combination with plant growth. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, which can promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows quickly and new branches grow rapidly, exceeding the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. In the process of water control, after the branches and leaves wilt, spray water in time, and recovery within 1 hour is the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body. If water supply is insufficient, enzyme activity decreases, metabolism slows down, and therefore plant growth slows down. If new branches bud later than planned, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and the flower buds will grow rapidly. During the flowering period, Chinese rose consumes a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering conditions
1. Sunlight must be long. The place where Chinese roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for it to bloom abundantly. If placed in a half-shaded, half-sunny place or a shaded place with insufficient light, it can bloom at most only in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, families whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements should preferably not grow Chinese roses and instead grow shade-loving flowers and plants.
2. Prune frequently. Although the sunlight conditions are good, if it is not pruned for a long time, Chinese rose will not grow well either. The pruning method is: after December each year, when the Chinese rose leaves fall, carry out one pruning. The remaining branches should be about 15 cm high, and the pruning position should be about 1 cm above an outward-growing leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches and concentric branches. After May, each time it finishes blooming, prune away 2/3 or 1/2 of the branch that has flowered, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If you want the flowers to be larger, you can also remove some when there are many flower buds, which can both concentrate nutrients and achieve the purpose of extending the flowering period and opening in batches.
3. Fertilize frequently and in a timely manner. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted Chinese roses can be cultivated with humus-rich loose loess. It is best to mix in 1/4 rice hull ash or a small amount of broad bean shells, bean cake or chicken and pigeon manure, etc., so that the Chinese rose can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium from the soil. If an old potted Chinese rose needs repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; if not repotting, scrape open 2-3 cm of the soil surface and fill in some fresh fish intestines or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January to February when the Chinese rose is dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots with rain or watering, achieving better results. After May is the peak growth season for Chinese rose. Every 10 days, apply a topdressing once. You can use decomposed fermented fish juice and vegetable leaf juice, mixed at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing by November. If you can do as required above, you can make the fresh flowers of Chinese rose meet you every month. Chinese rose is by nature averse to heat. It grows best at 20 to 25°C; above 30°C growth becomes difficult. If you handle fertilization well, you can overcome its weakness of fearing high temperatures in summer.
4. Repotting. Chinese rose does not need to be repotted or have its soil changed every year. If it is moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in all four seasons.
Early spring management
In early spring, the roots of Chinese rose begin to spread in the soil. At this time, the most important nurturing work is pruning.
In warm regions, it is in late February. In colder northern regions, pruning should be carried out in March to April. Pruning generally means cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height. First, remove weak branches, diseased branches and dead branches. The new branches sent out by the plant in 2011 are the most vigorous. Choose such main branches and keep 2 to 3, at most 5. According to the plant's original growth condition, generally prune about 50 cm above the ground, at a position 1 cm above a robust bud, using pruning shears. The so-called robust bud is an un-germinated, plump, already raised bud. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and keep robust buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be carried out at a plump part of the branch. When pruning with shears, a "click" sound indicates a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aged branching nodes of the plant are rough and prominently swollen, with no strong buds at all, so they should also be cut off.
The middle part of 2- to 3-year-old main branches is a place where new buds frequently appear, so when pruning, only leave 10 to 20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers in the flowering period, prune lightly. If you want the flowers to bloom well in the flowering period and do not seek many flowers, prune heavily. In addition, for plants with poor growth, you should make up your mind to prune heavily, because such plants have poor root development. If the crown is too large, it easily causes insufficient nutrient supply. While pruning, it is best to do one high-concentration disinfection, which has a significant effect on preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches tilt outward, use supports (wooden sticks, etc.) to fix them, making the tree shape balanced and beautiful, and avoiding branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. The branches sent out from the buds at the lower part of the tilted branch are more robust, and the flowers are also abundant, so attention should be paid to protecting them.
After Awakening of Insects, insects successively wake from hibernation and begin activity. At this time, dissolve 10 mL of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used to treat powdery mildew in 10 L of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because the Chinese rose has not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about phytotoxicity.
About 20 days after pruning, buds begin to sprout. Among them, weak and small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. If you want the flowers to bloom well, keep buds according to the thickness of the main branches. Keep 3 to 4 buds on thick branches, and 1 to 2 buds on pencil-thick branches, and remove all the rest. In cold regions, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be delayed.
If base fertilizer was applied in December, no topdressing is needed in early spring. When buds sprout, sprinkle an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After buds sprout, on sunny days, if the soil surface is dry, water in the morning or before noon so as not to let the soil surface freeze.
Summer management
Once the peak flowering period of potted Chinese roses passes, they enter the hot and humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening the management of potted Chinese roses in summer and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormancy period and keep them blooming continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shading and ventilation. Potted Chinese roses have limited soil, and in high-temperature weather the soil easily heats up and dries out, so the Chinese roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. to place the potted flowers under trees in the yard or in a ventilated place under a trellis, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light, creating suitable environmental conditions for the growth and flowering of Chinese roses.
2. More fertilizer and water. Chinese roses bloom many times and need sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. Entering summer, their evaporation and consumption are both large, and growth is rapid. During the flowering period, apply a thin topdressing once every 10 days. You can also soak bean cake and poultry manure in water, and after sealed fermentation, mix with water as topdressing, so that the plant has abundant flowers and lush leaves, breaking the summer dormancy state of Chinese roses. For watering, use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water. If too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the root system and affect the normal development of the plant.
3. Spray more water. Chinese roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and an average temperature of 20 to 25°C is most favorable for growth. Therefore, in summer, besides appropriate shading, more water should be sprayed. It is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a humid environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning branches and pruning. After Chinese roses bloom, they should be cut below the third compound leaf under the flower, to promote strong new branches and early budding and flowering. Weak short branches should be pruned first and pruned high; robust branches should be pruned later and pruned short, to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote neat flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed axillary bud sprouting. In addition, each round should not retain too many flowers. For potted Chinese roses, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate. Retaining too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, making flowers small and affecting the next round of flowers.
5. Loosen soil and weed. While clearing weeds on the pot surface, use a fine wire rake to gently break the surface layer around the flower pot, enhancing the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promoting the normal growth of the root system.
6. Prevent and control pests and diseases. The site where flower pots are placed should frequently be sprayed for sterilization with 15% limewater or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution. July to August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is the high-incidence period of leaf spot and powdery mildew. It can be sprayed with 0.3 to 0.5 degrees Baume lime sulfur mixture, once a week, for a total of 2 to 3 sprays. In June to July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the branch tips should be cut off immediately. Once other leaf-eating pests are found, spray 800 times monocrotophos for control, which can kill eggs and larvae.
Pot cultivation techniques
1. Potting up
This refers to planting newly bred small seedlings or field-grown Chinese roses into pots before sprouting, starting from lifting large plants. For small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture, as well as field-grown bare-root seedlings, it is suitable to plant them in plain sandy loam for a period of time. After the root system grows strong, use fertilized culture soil and place base fertilizer, then repot into a pot one size larger. For small seedlings rooted from cuttings in culture soil or field-grown small pots with soil balls, ordinary culture soil can be used for planting. When potting up, first soak the new pot thoroughly with water, wash the old pot clean, and according to the size of the pot, place 1 cm to 3 cm of coarse sand at the bottom as a drainage layer. Then fill part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting, pile the center of the pot into a small mound, hold the plant upright with the left hand, fill soil with the right hand, and as you fill soil, gently lift the seedling upward so that the roots hang down at 45°. After planting, firm the soil. For root clumps with soil being potted up, also straighten the root fibers and plant the plant upright. Small seedlings are generally potted up at any time, and once they survive cultivation, they should be potted up in time to prevent leggy and weak growth. Large field-grown plants must be potted up during the dormant period after leaf fall in early winter or before sprouting in early spring, otherwise normal growth and development will be affected, tree vigor will weaken, and it will take a long time to rejuvenate. When potting up, the soil should be moist and loose. After potting up, do not water thoroughly for the time being, and pay attention to shading and wind protection. This can not only promote the rapid healing of broken roots, but also easily rejuvenate and grow vigorously.
2. Repotting into a larger pot
According to the plant's growth trend and development needs, take the whole root ball out of a small pot and plant it into a larger pot, including transitioning from plain soil planting to culture soil. Repotting into a larger pot is generally not restricted by time. For example, small seedlings potted in a No. 2 pot in spring, if growing vigorously, can be moved to a No. 9 deep pot in July to August. If the plant is even larger, it can be planted in a pot one size larger. When removing from the pot, use the right index finger and middle finger to hold the stem of the plant, press the palm tightly against the soil surface, and support the bottom of the pot with the left hand and turn the pot over. For small seedlings, gently tap the pot edge with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and lightly knock the pot rim against a hard place, and the whole root ball can be taken out. The original pot soil should be watered properly beforehand. When removing from the pot, it must not be too dry or too wet. For repotting into a larger pot, use culture soil for planting. First remove the surface soil (the cap) of the whole root ball and the lower drainage layer, then slightly loosen and straighten the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Operate gently and do not let the root ball break apart. Then place it in the pot, add 20 to 60 g of hoof pieces as base fertilizer, fill soil and firm it. After repotting into a larger pot, normal care can continue.
3. Changing the pot
For all kinds of Chinese roses that have been potted for two years and have developed into form, in order to maintain vigorous plant growth and well-proportioned plant shape, every year after leaf fall and before sprouting, combine pruning, replace the potting soil, and apply base fertilizer. For changing the pot, generally still use a flower pot of the original specification, and do not increase the size number. For those stored closed in an earth cellar in winter, after taking the whole root ball out of the pot, trim the roots. First remove the surface cover of the root ball and the bottom drainage layer, then cut off the excessively dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Pay attention to checking and removing decayed roots and root nodules. Keep the protective root soil and do not let the root ball break apart. Overall, remove no more than 1/2 of the old potting soil, then place it in a cold cellar for temporary planting, and pot it with new soil the following spring. For those placed in a cold room or a plastic-film sun frame in winter, they can be repotted with new soil into the original pot. The key operation points are the same as for repotting into a larger pot. After changing the pot, water thoroughly once, and then they can be put into the cold room or sun frame for care.
4. Water and fertilizer
During the growth period of potted Chinese roses, water should be given in a timely manner and checked as needed, always keeping the potting soil moist. In hot and dry seasons, spray water on the leaf surface and the surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh. In cold seasons, control water, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilization should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light and growth vigor, applying base fertilizer or topdressing in a timely and appropriate amount.
Pruning Tips
Only by promptly removing spent flowers from roses can the plant concentrate its nutrients, stay strong, and keep blooming without decline. If spent flowers are not removed in time, the axillary buds immediately below them often sprout and form weak shoots. These small shoots both consume nutrients and ruin the plant's shape, and even if they bloom, they mostly produce deformed or inferior small flowers. In addition, except for flowers being kept for seed collection, spent flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first flush of blooms, medium-strength branches should be cut back to a medium length, leaving 3 to 4 buds on the branch; weak branches should be cut back hard, leaving 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, leaving 5 buds, to appropriately restrain growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only just above the second leaf below the spent flower and keeping the axillary bud of that second leaf, which is the bud with the best advantages in both growth and development and occupies the dominant position on the whole plant; removing this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality, and the plant's vigor.
After the Beginning of Autumn, post-bloom pruning (the third flush of flowers) uses medium cutting, leaving 3 to 4 buds per branch. To keep the plant's shape balanced, you may also cut down to the branch that bore the previous flush of flowers. Overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches, and leggy branches should be removed to improve ventilation and light penetration and keep the plant's shape well proportioned.
At the same time, post-bloom pruning of roses should also be coordinated with controlling the flowering period. For roses to be displayed on National Day, pruning can be done 45 days before flowering, cutting back to a medium length and leaving 3 to 4 buds, after which each branch will send out 2 small shoots. After pruning, step up fertilizer and watering, watch out for waterlogging and powdery mildew, and the flowers will open successively in late September.
In addition, pruning can make floribunda roses bloom earlier or later. Light pruning of these roses preserves more mature branches and makes the plants bloom two weeks earlier; heavy pruning makes the plants send out strong shoots that bloom in autumn, delaying the autumn flowers by two weeks. Therefore, considering the plant as a whole, different pruning can be used to advance or extend the flowering period.
Rose Cultivation Methods and Flower-Promoting Methods
Roses have large flowers and bloom profusely, so they need plenty of fertilizer and should be fed generously; sufficient organic fertilizer should be applied before buds break. For potted roses, repot once in early spring; the potting soil formula is: (loam) 5 : (leaf mold) 2 : (rotted manure) 2 : (sandy soil) 1, plus a small amount of rapeseed cake, mixed thoroughly. After that, apply a top dressing every 10 to 15 days. The top dressing can be a liquid fertilizer made by fermenting cake fertilizer with phosphate fertilizer, diluted with water and poured on. Especially after the peak bloom in May, fertilizer should be applied in time to promote summer and autumn flowering. [6]
During the growing season, roses should receive full sunlight, with 8 hours of light per day being ideal. If grown indoors for display, move them in before 11 a.m. and move them out before 4 p.m., so they receive the soft light around midday, which helps prolong the flowering time.
Roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and grow best at an average temperature of 20 to 25°C. Therefore, in summer they should be given appropriate shade and misted with water several times. To cool them down and replenish moisture, during the growing season it is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to create a humid environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.
After a rose blooms, it should be cut below the third compound leaf beneath the flower to encourage strong new shoots and early bud formation and blooming. The key points of pruning technique are: cut weak, short branches first and high; cut vigorous branches later and short, to boost the weak and restrain the strong, so that they bloom evenly. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid delayed sprouting of axillary buds. In addition, too many flowers should not be kept per flush; for potted roses, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate, while for field-grown roses it depends on the plant's vigor. Keeping too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, resulting in small flowers and affecting the next flush. [7]
Fresh-Cut Techniques
Roses should be harvested and cut when the temperature is low and the humidity is high. If roses are cut too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally, they are cut 1 to 2 days before flowering. The cutting time is related to the variety; usually, when 4 to 6 petals have loosened and the flower bud has opened, they can be cut. It is sometimes found that cut roses droop prematurely before the buds have even opened; this situation is mainly due to cutting too early at the bud stage, when the calyx is still tightly wrapping the bud. It is best to cut when the sepals form a 90° angle with the petals. When cutting, the branch should have 5 internodes or a longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the branch. One hour after cutting, insert into water to absorb water, then grade by length, tie in bundles of 10 stems, and wrap in cellophane. Cut roses have a short vase life and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If cut roses are not to be sold on the market, they should be stored in a low-temperature warehouse immediately, at a storage temperature of 1 to 2°C; it is best to store them in water as wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is very important; a low pH value benefits cut roses. Be careful not to insert the leaves into the water too. The freshness-promoting agent in the holding container is a mixture of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. The usual vase preservation solution for roses is called the Cornell formula. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon in roses, cobalt acetate at a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, diammonium ethyl carbamoylphosphonate can prevent red cut roses from rotting and wilting early.
Rose Propagation Methods
Mostly cutting propagation is used, and division and layering can also be used. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are most suitable; for softwood cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise, rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally done in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if cutting in the open field, attention must be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. Those propagated by sowing are used for sexual cross-breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting is used, and the rootstock is preferably wild rose. Such as the yellow series varieties.
Management
Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year, and pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting: first cut out dense branches and dead branches, then cut out old and weak branches, leaving 2 to 3 outward-growing buds so the plant spreads in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thin them out. After each flush of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower so it does not set seed and consume nutrients, and keep the plump middle and lower parts of the branch to promote early new shoots and another bloom. Roses like a heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and a top dressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and force flowers. Roses have strict water requirements and must not be too wet or too dry; too dry and they wither, too wet and the roots are damaged and leaves drop.
Grafting
Cutting is the main method, with sowing and tissue culture as supplements. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose, pink cluster rose, 'Baiyutang' (rose), and others.
For field-grown roses, choose a sheltered, sunny site with good drainage, and in addition to a heavy application of base fertilizer, top dressings should also be applied during the growing season. Pruning is an important task; besides dormant-season pruning, during the growing season attention should also be paid to bud removal, cutting out spent flower branches, and removing rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly aimed at supplying cut flowers, usually planted at a spacing of 30cm×30cm, maintaining 15 to 17°C at night and 21 to 25°C during the day. Potted roses can be used for indoor display. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, appropriate pot diameter, moderate moisture, light but frequent fertilizing, flower removal and branch pruning, pest and disease control, and repotting every year.
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods for propagating roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual reproduction; it combines parts of two plants into a single whole that continues to grow as one plant. In the grafted combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part bearing the scion is called the rootstock. Some rose varieties are few in number and have striking flower colors, but their own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly; grafting onto vigorous rootstocks makes these rose varieties grow strongly and enhances their disease resistance.
Grafting can also faithfully reflect the various traits of the original variety, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, from the date of grafting to the opening of the first flower, the fastest grafted plant took only 23 days, and individual plants even flowered 1 to 2 days earlier; most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to flower. This shows that compared with cutting, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, 2012, grafting and cutting were done on the same day; about 20% of the grafted plants had flowered by around July 25, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings had flowered by around September 20 or even later. This shows that the advantages of grafting are very strong. Of course, graft propagation is complicated to perform and has high technical requirements. The specific issues of graft propagation are discussed one by one below.
Factors Affecting Graft Survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For grafting roses, a suitable grafting rootstock must first be selected. The rootstock not only bears the role of mechanical support and absorption and conduction of water and nutrients, it also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock's root system. Various experiments have proven that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors determining whether ideal grafted rose seedlings can be produced. The rootstocks usually used are roses and their varieties, such as 'Fentuan' rose, 'Manettii' rose, Dutch rose, and Japanese thornless rose. These rose species have well-developed root systems, resist cold and drought, and have strong affinity for the grafted varieties and stable heredity.
2. Grafting affinity between rootstock and scion:
Grafting affinity refers to the similarity in internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics between the rootstock and scion. Through grafting, the plant can be promoted to heal and survive as well as to be physiologically compatible after survival. The manifestations of weak affinity and strong affinity are relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the affinity. Affinity is strongest between the same variety or the same species. Grafting affinity between different species of the same genus varies by species.
3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:
The cambium parts of both the rootstock and scion must be in close contact over a fairly large area; this is one factor in graft survival. Theoretically, complete alignment of the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the ideal grafting result, but in practice this is hard to achieve; one can only aim to achieve the largest possible area of contact.
4. Temperature, moisture, and oxygen conditions during grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity, and only cell activity, including cell division, can promote scion growth.
Generally, different rose varieties can all promote rapid cell growth within a temperature range of 13 to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and vigorous cambium activity. Such conditions generally occur in spring, early summer, and September and October. The callus tissue growing from the cambium is composed of thin-walled, plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore, the union must be bound tightly to preserve tissue moisture. The rapid division of callus cells is often accompanied by respiration, and oxygen is indispensable at this time. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the union has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.
5. Quality of rootstock and scion:
Judging by the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison between its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, choosing one-year-old seedling plants as rootstock for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because they have well-developed root systems, strong disease resistance, smooth main stems, and moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.
Grafting Techniques
1. Disinfection of tools before grafting: when grafting, while ensuring the cambium of rootstock and scion are aligned, also ensure the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action should be nimble and quick to avoid oxidation and discoloration of the cut surfaces.
2. Selection and storage of scions: the selection of rose scions directly relates to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether vigorous grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, eliminating the trouble of collecting them on the spot, saving a great deal of time and allowing grafting at any time. The following points should be noted in the selection and storage of scions:
(1). The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases; if it has powdery mildew, black spot, or red spider mites, etc., it must not be used.
(2). Usually, one-year-old or less than one-year-old post-bloom scion wood can be selected; the entire flowering branch from the second axillary bud below the bract can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, from 150 cm long to about 10 cm short, and the number of graft buds they contain varies; sometimes on the same scion branch the plumpness of the graft buds differs, so buds must be selected individually. Overall, the graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting, with the best survival rate.
(3). As long as the scion has plump graft buds, it can be stored for later use at any time of the year; of course, in summer it should be refrigerated, and in winter it can be stored in sand. The refrigeration and sand storage time must not be too long. Usually, the number of scions refrigerated and sand-stored should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number refrigerated or sand-stored can be determined by the grafting speed. The prerequisite for refrigeration and sand storage is appropriate moisture and temperature retention; only appropriate moisture and temperature retention can maintain the normal physiological activity of the scion wood. Practice has proven that scientific refrigeration and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
Grafting Period
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be done at any time of the year, but specific situations must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the graft survival rate is relatively lower; below 5°C, grafted plants are in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.
Grafting Methods
According to production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1). On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a single-edged safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at a 30 to 40° angle. Then, in the same way and of the same size, select a plump, full graft bud on the scion wood and insert it into the prepared rootstock incision, and bind firmly from bottom to top with white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width, pressing the edges ring by ring, with moderate tightness.
(2). When inserting the graft bud into the incision, align the cambium over as large an area as possible, and do not expose the rootstock's xylem. This method is simple and quick to perform and has a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements; one must master the technique of matching rootstock and scion in one go.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is likewise a popular method in rose grafting production.
(1). Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, about 5 to 8 mm wide, just reaching the xylem; then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening.
(2). Cut the scion wood from the mother plant, remove the leaf blades but keep the leaf stalks, select a plump, full graft bud, and use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem, then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the incision above the graft bud.
(3). Use the knife to lift open the bark of the rootstock's T-shaped incision, insert the graft bud into the incision, and after insertion make fine adjustments to align the horizontal cut of the graft bud with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; positioning it in one go is ideal. Once the graft bud is placed properly, bind it with plastic tape, and the graft bud must be left exposed when binding. Although this method seems cumbersome and time-consuming, once proficient it can complete the grafting of one plant within one minute, and the graft survival rate is extremely high with excellent survival quality.
3. Large open-door budding: the large open-door budding method is also a very popular grafting method; it has high technical requirements, and the rootstock and scion incisions must not be exposed for too long. The key operating points are as follows:
(1). On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, just reaching the xylem; then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then make another cut in the same way at the other end of the horizontal cut. Both cuts should just reach the xylem, then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove the cut-off small square piece of bark to expose the xylem, then lift it open with the knife.
(2). Remove the leaf blades from the scion wood but keep the leaf stalks, select a plump, full graft bud, use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then make another vertical cut in the same way at the other end of the horizontal cut, then make another horizontal cut aligned with the two vertical cuts to form a rectangular bud plate with the graft bud; all four cuts should reach the xylem.
(3). Use the knife or your hands to lift open the rootstock bark, insert the graft bud quickly and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of the rootstock and scion, and bind with plastic tape with moderate tightness. Grafting by this method gives a large contact area between the cambium of rootstock and scion and rapid nutrient supply, which can greatly improve the survival rate and survival quality.
(4). Rootless rootstock grafting: rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto already lignified new rootless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose graft propagation meets the needs of factory-style, specialized, and large-scale production and is not restricted by season. Performing all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate, and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt the above-mentioned chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, and large open-door budding methods. When using this method for propagation in summer, the graft bud must have 1 to 2 leaves, and after cutting, moisture-retention care is required. If rootless rootstock graft cutting is done in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C; for cold-frame cutting, cold-protection measures must be strengthened to avoid frost damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is done in summer or winter, after grafting the cuttings are planted at a sparser density than ordinary rose cuttings. When cutting, the cuttings should all lean 70° toward the north, with the graft bud side facing the sunny direction. Technical requirements: row spacing 5 cm×5 cm, cutting depth about 3 cm.
Rose Disease and Pest Control
1. Slug moth
Mainly the larvae of the yellow slug moth, brown-edged green slug moth, beautiful brown slug moth, mulberry brown slug moth, and flat slug moth, which heavily chew leaves in high-temperature seasons. Control method: once found, immediately spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution, or 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
2. Scale insects
Mainly include white scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, brown soft scale, cottony cushion scale, greedy scale, and snake-eye scale, etc. Their damage is characterized by piercing and sucking the sap of young rose stems and leaves, causing poor plant growth; it is mainly induced by high temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation, and insufficient light. Control method: during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray with 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
3. Aphids
Mainly the rose aphid, green peach aphid, etc.; they pierce and suck the sap of the plant's young organs, damaging young stems, young leaves, and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: promptly spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
4. Rose sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather to cause damage, and in a short time can eat all the plant's young leaves, leaving only a few main leaf veins, seriously harming the plant's normal growth. Control method: for a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick the leaves with large gatherings of larvae and crush them underfoot. If they appear in large numbers, spray with 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution.
5. Carmine spider mite
It can occur 10 to 16 generations a year, with adult mites, young mites, and nymphs gathering on the underside of leaves to pierce and suck and cause damage; eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the underside of leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50 to 150 eggs, up to 500 at most; the time to complete one generation is only 10 to 13 days at a temperature of 23 to 25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It runs rampant in high-temperature, dry seasons, often causing large numbers of dense small white spots on the upper side of leaves, with the underside turning yellow and occasionally with dead spots. Control method: once found, promptly spray with 25% pyridaben wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, black velvet scarab, white-spotted flower chafer, and small green flower chafer, etc.; the adults often chew new leaves, tender shoots, and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: taking advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior, shake them off in the evening and kill them. Taking advantage of the adults' phototaxis, use black-light lamps to trap and kill them. When the adults are feeding and causing damage, spray with 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.
7. Borer
The rose borer is the larva of the rose stem sawfly; it bores holes in the stem and gnaws inside the stem, causing branches to break and the upper part to die. The larva is white with a pale yellow head and a body length of about 15 to 17 mm. The adult has wings, a black body, and yellow on both sides of the abdomen. The pupa is vermilion red. Usually 1 generation occurs per year, causing damage in May and June, and it pupates inside the stem to overwinter; it is a relatively serious pest. Black spot: mainly attacks leaves, leaf stalks, and tender shoots; when the leaf first becomes diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the upper side, and after enlargement they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Chemicals such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and daconil can be sprayed.
8. Powdery mildew
It attacks tender leaves, with white powdery material appearing on both sides; early symptoms are not obvious. Three to 5 days after the powdery layer appears, the leaves become water-soaked, gradually lose green and turn yellow, and in severe cases cause leaves to drop. During the onset period, spraying carbendazim or triadimefon is sufficient, but Guoguang Yingna has the best effect.
9. Leaf blight
It mostly invades at the leaf tip or leaf edge, initially as small yellow spots, then rapidly expanding inward into irregular large lesions; severely affected leaves wither over 2/3 of the leaf, the diseased part loses green and yellows, and turns brown, dries up, and drops. To control the above diseases, in addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management, in winter the diseased branches and diseased leaves should be cut off, fallen leaves on the ground cleared away, and the sources of primary infection reduced. When disease occurs, integrated control should be adopted, and fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed.
10. Black spot
Mainly attacks leaves, leaf stalks, and tender shoots; when the leaf first becomes diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the upper side, and after enlargement they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Chemicals such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and daconil can be sprayed.
Rose Variety Classification Overview
Among the dicotyledon class of angiosperms, the three outstanding members of the Rosaceae family - rose, Chinese rose, and Rosa multiflora - are in fact all plants of the genus Rosa. In Chinese, people are accustomed to calling varieties with large, single flowers Chinese rose, those with small, clustered flowers Rosa multiflora, and those from which essence can be extracted rose. But in English they can all be collectively called rose. According to officially registered varieties, there are about thirty thousand roses. In fact, the more than 200 major varieties under the genus Rosa are all called rose abroad, and in Taiwan they are all called rose.
Main Types
The main types of Chinese rose include edible rose, climbing rose (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea rose (cut-flower roses are mainly large-flowered hybrid tea roses) (HT series), floribunda rose (F/FI series), miniature rose (Min series), tree rose, grandiflora rose (Gr series), shrub rose (sh series), and ground-cover rose (Gc series), etc.
Climbing Rose (CI series)
A new star in landscaping - the climbing rose is a climbing shrub of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae, with relatively tall plants. Each year it sends out thick, strong new branches from the base, and thicker lateral branches grow from the tips of two-year-old climbing branches. It has a four-season flowering habit, but the largest number of flowers occurs only in late spring or early summer. It is a climbing growth type with a well-developed root system, extremely strong resistance, rapid branch sprouting, and vigorous growth; one plant can send out 7 to 8 main branches per year, and each main branch in turn branches in an open pattern, with the highest annual growth reaching 5 m, and it has very strong disease resistance.
It is extensively managed, tolerant of pruning, rich in flower shapes, and blooms continuously in all four seasons (some are also one-season or two-season flowering types), with brilliant, bold flower colors, a long flowering period, and a rich fragrance. Flower colors include vermilion, bright red, fresh red, pink, golden yellow, orange yellow, bicolor, and pure white, etc. It sprouts at the internodes in the second year, blooms all over the plant, and has numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, flower waterfalls, arch shapes, and corridor shapes.
Cut-Flower Roses
Varieties include:
1. Red series: Royal Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (classic variety), Orange-Red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (classic variety), Jubilation, Changhong, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Pink Fan, Orchid Moon, Parade (classic variety), Angela, etc.
4. White series: White River, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (classic variety), Flower Fairy, Colorful Cloud, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Purple Robe Jade Belt (classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Earth, Sweet Dream, Stream, etc.
Large-Flowered Hybrid Tea Rose (HT series)
There are many varieties, and it is the main body of modern roses. Its characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flower shapes, numerous, bright and lively flower colors, aromatic fragrance, and strong ornamental value.
Varieties include:
1. White: Tinwalt, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Tineke (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold (classic variety), Gold Plate, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc.
3. Red: Crimson Fan, Super Star (classic variety), Mélanie Rouge, Cartier Playing Cards, Hankou, Rose Center, Congressman Buda, Fragrant Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon (classic variety), Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Blue River (classic variety), Paradise, etc.
5. Black-red: Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, a large-flowered hybrid tea rose variety, the standard flower of rose judging standards), Warrior, Great Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Spotted Rock, Black Pearl, Vermilion-and-Ink Double Radiance, etc.
6. Green: Green Star, Green Calyx.
7. Orange: Jesta, Joey, Quintley, Golden Bull, Marina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: Pink Fan, Pink Peace (classic variety), First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Drunken Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Chicago Peace (classic variety), Double Delight (classic variety, first among the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Greek Homeland (fragrant) (classic variety), Mélanie Rhapsody, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chacok, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Colorful Cloud, Garibaldi, Float, etc.
Floribunda Rose (F/FI series)
Floribunda roses have an expansive growth habit, with flower heads in clusters; they are cold-resistant, heat-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant, disease-resistant, and extremely adaptable to the environment. They are widely used in urban landscaping, garden flower beds, and expressways, etc.
Miniature Rose (Min series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short plant type in a ball shape and numerous flower heads; because of its unique character it is also called "diamond rose". It is mainly used for potted display, embellishing lawns, and arranging flower color patterns.
Tree Rose
Tree rose, also called rose tree or rose standard, achieves a standard upright trunk and crown through two or more grafting steps. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4 to 2.0 m, trunk diameter 1 to 5 cm).
Advantages: good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with distinct layers, visually refreshing; diverse forms, including round ball type, fan type, waterfall type, miniature type, etc.; it retains the advantages of ordinary roses such as strong fragrance, long flowering period, and diverse flower colors, while appearing more novel, more noble, and more passionate, and therefore has higher aesthetic value.
Habits: strong adaptability. The flower crown of the tree rose is farther from the ground than that of ordinary flowers, making it less susceptible to soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is taken from Rosa multiflora, with a well-developed root system, and the rose of the Rosaceae family has extremely strong vitality, especially in areas with relatively high alkalinity where growing ordinary roses is difficult, and the tree rose fills this gap.
Ground-Cover Rose (Gc series)
The newest ecological landscape flower - the ground-cover rose, its growth is as follows:
It is prostrate and expansive, with a height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant sends out more than 50 branches per year, the branches root where they touch the ground, and each branch blooms 50 to 100 flowers at a time.
The root system is well developed, rooting as deep as more than 2 m.
It has large coverage, with a single plant covering an area of more than 1 sq m.
It has strong gregarious flowering and blooms continuously in all four seasons.
Its biological habits are:
Drought-tolerant; it can grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150-200 mm.
Tolerant of poor soil, slope land and deep shade; it can be planted and grown in areas where irrigation is difficult.
Tolerant of high temperature and high humidity; it grows normally at low temperatures of -30°C and high temperatures of 42°C.
Extensive management and strong disease resistance; no pesticide application and no pruning are needed, which greatly reduces management costs.
Its effect in color blocks and roadside strips is remarkable; ground-cover roses have deep roots and luxuriant leaves, with highly spreading branches and leaves, and strong leaf-surface respiration, giving them a high absorption rate for urban dust and harmful substances; it is an excellent plant for conserving water sources and preventing soil erosion.
Varieties include: Brazilino, Ground Cover No. 1, Hadley Ford Jun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympics, etc., and Flower Carpet.
Peace Rose
The Peace Rose was bred by the Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. Under the code number 3-35-40, he sent this rose to the United States. After the American horticulturist Robert Pyle received this variety that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important nurseries in the northern and southern United States for propagation. Several years later, this new variety made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout the United States. In 1945, the American Rose Society named this variety Peace and declared: We are convinced that this most remarkable new rose of our time should be named after the greatest wish of the people of the world today, "Peace," and we believe that the Peace Rose will, as a model, forever grow in the gardens of our descendants. On the day the Peace Rose was named, it happened that the Allied forces captured Berlin and Hitler perished. And when the Peace Rose received [the honor], [there followed] the unconditional surrender of American imperialism. When the United Nations was founded and held its first meeting in San Francisco, in the vase of every delegate's room there was a bouquet of Peace Roses presented by the American Rose Society. On it was a note reading: We hope that the "Peace" rose can influence people's thinking and give the world lasting peace. During the Second World War, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice, fourteen kilometers from Prague, killed one hundred and seventy-five men over the age of fifteen and put the women and children into concentration camps. After the war, in order to commemorate these people, many rose experts and some voluntary donors built a rose garden here in 1955, among which the main variety was the Peace Rose.
Red Hat Rose
Product name: Red Hat Rose
Category: Flowering shrubs -> Red Hat Rose
Product introduction: Red Hat Rose scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Climbing Rose
Distribution: Native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces; now commonly cultivated in various places, especially the original species and the ever-blooming red rose. The original species and most varieties were introduced abroad as early as the early 18th century and became important original material for modern rose cross-breeding.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen or semi-evergreen erect shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5 cm, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acute, margin sharply serrate, glabrous on both surfaces, glossy above; petiole and rachis sparsely bearing prickles and short glandular hairs; stipules mostly adnate to the petiole, margin glandular-ciliate; flowers often several clustered, rarely solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, dark red, pink, to nearly white, slightly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margin glandular-hairy; pedicels mostly slender, glandular-hairy. Fruit ovoid to globose, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Flowering period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Variety evolution
Breeding and variety evolution: The process of rose breeding and variety evolution is divided into three independent periods. In these three periods, the breeding methods are relatively different, but the theme of breeding, namely gene change, is common to all. The three periods are divided as follows:
1. Early period (prehistoric times to 1875)
2. Modern period (1875-1967)
3. Contemporary period (1967 to present)
The first period lasted about 5,000 years. By 1875, Mendel had published his famous laws of hybridization and heredity, and people's rose breeding also developed into directional cross-breeding. From then on, most rose breeders considered breeding issues from the perspective of Mendelian inheritance or qualitative inheritance, while quantitative inheritance or weighted inheritance behavior in breeding was still little known or rarely applied at that time.
The outline of rose breeding in the first period is as follows:
1. Numerous rose species were collected and all planted together.
2. Only a very few of them contributed to rose breeding in the second period.
3. Intraspecific hybridization was a naturally occurring process.
4. New varieties came only from natural pollination.
5. Rose breeding work was concentrated in Western Europe and the United States.
6. The natural evolutionary trend was from diploid to tetraploid.
7. A primitive, enormous gene pool was formed.
8. Domestication reduced gene resources.
9. Rose varieties before 1875 were inferred.
The second period began with the application of directional techniques and ended in 1967. From 1967 onward, molecular biology techniques began to be applied in roses. This period lasted 90 years.
The third period began in 1967 and has already gone through more than 30 years.
The beginning of rose breeding: Early gardening people selected excellent types from wild roses and planted them together. As early as very early prehistoric times, several rose species or several domesticated varieties among them were cultivated in China, Persia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Italy, far earlier than the first year of the Common Era. In ancient horticulture, it is unclear whether roses were propagated by seed or asexually, but over more than 5,000 years, through sowing seeds obtained from natural pollination, a large number of new varieties appeared.
The domestication of varieties and the production of intraspecific hybrid hybrids was a long process. Some undesirable primitive types were abandoned, asexual propagation techniques developed, and the progress of domestication accelerated. Through introduction by travelers and variety replacement, horticulturists obtained new gene resources (any domesticated type has very little gene change). Early breeders knew that planting one variety together with other varieties had a great influence on the offspring, and at the same time they kept a lot of records on female parents and the production of new varieties, enabling us to confirm the evolutionary process of some varieties, but breeders at that time still did not understand that the characteristics of the male parent would be passed on to the next generation through pollination. At that time, some diploid varieties also evolved into tetraploid varieties. Almost all main varieties of modern roses are tetraploids. It is worth noting that within some continuously blooming varieties, vitality increases with increasing ploidy. If this knowledge had been understood earlier, it might have stimulated breeders of that period to take an interest in directionally breeding new tetraploid varieties from diploids.
The China rose native to China played a more important role in the breeding of new Western European rose varieties than any other rose species. It brought to new varieties the phenomena of continuous blooming and shrub growth that were hitherto unknown. Multiflora rose was also a very important parent, bringing the characteristic of umbel inflorescences to roses.
In the second period, research in biomolecules developed unprecedentedly. However, there was not much scientific research on roses. This situation can be seen from the past two journals, Plant Breeding and Horticultural Abstracts: among the thousands of papers in them each year, very few were about roses. Scientific research work on roses mainly concentrated on taxonomic cytology, physiology, morphology, growth conditions, varieties and rootstock research. The goals of breeding research lay in character inheritance, simplification of cross-breeding procedures, and increasing the rates of direct selection and indirect selection. Research on low-energy-consumption and pest- and disease-resistant varieties was relatively scarce and far behind that of fruit trees. For example, almost all breeding work was confined to universities or research institutes.
In the second period, there were two major discoveries. First, the breeding of continuously blooming, large-flowered varieties was achieved by Pernet in 1900. It marked the first success of directional interspecific cross-breeding in roses.
The second major achievement was in 1920, the breeding of the old dwarf compact variety "pompon de paris." This new type was rediscovered in Switzerland and is now named R. roulettii Corre von; it is the origin of some modern miniature roses.
In the early part of the second period, people discovered a large number of gene types in roses. Faced with numerous gene resources, breeders of the second period seized the opportunity. Some parents were selected and retained, others were abandoned, cross-breeding techniques developed further, and indoor cross-breeding began. Many different original parents could be crossed with one another, and as a result the originally clear boundaries between different types disappeared.
In the 1930s, roses were divided into greenhouse roses and open-field roses. Encouraged by the demand for the two types of varieties, breeders began to select and breed types suitable for their respective specific environments. Today, breeders mainly focus on the first type, because the quality of greenhouse varieties is 3-5 times that of open-field varieties, making greenhouse varieties particularly eye-catching. Because there have always been very abundant gene resources among varieties, breeders have been quite successful in breeding work for both types, and gradually some types suitable for greenhouse production have been bred, including some small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered varieties.
Generally speaking, there is no difference in method between the selection and breeding of greenhouse roses and open-field roses. When it comes to methods or breeding procedures, breeders mostly use negative methods to select their seedlings. In the selection process, about 99% of seedlings are eliminated. This method of strict selection among tens of thousands of seedlings each year has continued for nearly 100 years, which inevitably leads to serious loss of genes. Worse still, almost every breeder selects the same traits, thus applying the same selection criteria.
Differences from the rose
The stems of the rose are tall and long, the prickles are mostly straight, the flowers are small, the flower color is single, and the flowering period is short. In contrast, the flowering branches are upright, the flower colors are rich, and it is fragrant. Rose leaflets are also 5-9 in number, but the underside of the leaf is wrinkled, the leaf back is whitish with small prickles, and the whole leaf is relatively thick with sunken veins. Rose stems are low and short, the prickles are large, with roughly 3 or 4 hooks per node; the flowers are large, the flower colors are rich, the scent is faint or absent, and the leaflets are generally 3-5 in number, flat and smooth.
The uses and functions of roses and their influence on the home environment
1. A rose in the home gives you a home full of poetry. Different types of roses have different flower languages. For example, the flower language and symbolic meaning of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower language and symbolic meaning of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower language and symbolic meaning of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower language and symbolic meaning of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower language and symbolic meaning of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower language and symbolic meaning of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower language and symbolic meaning of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. Such an interesting flower, planted as a single plant, gives your whole home a new face.
2. The dark appearance makes the owner feel more energetic. Usually, dark things give people a visual impact. Imagine coming home and facing four walls that are all white and furniture that is all light-colored, very lifeless. If you suddenly see a thriving rose beside the television, the whole person will immediately perk up, because the sudden visual change makes a person feel refreshed, life becomes especially lively, and the feeling is particularly good.
3. The role of greening the home is also self-evident. The rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets, sparsely scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless; the leaf margin is serrate, both surfaces are glabrous and smooth, and the stipules are connate with the petiole. Flowers are borne at the tips of branches, often clustered, rarely solitary, with very many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but some single-flowered; the flowers are slightly fragrant; the fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow and splits open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Such a beautiful rose constantly absorbs components in the air that are unfavorable to human life and releases oxygen beneficial to the human body, so the greening effect is achieved without one even noticing.
Feng shui effect
First, planting roses in one's own garden can make family members feel refreshed and energetic. The rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets, sparsely scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless; the leaf margin is serrate, both surfaces are glabrous and smooth, and the stipules are connate with the petiole. Flowers are borne at the tips of branches, often clustered, rarely solitary, with very many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but some single-flowered; the flowers are slightly fragrant; the fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow and splits open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Its bright red appearance makes people feel energized. At the same time, it should be noted that the rose is a relatively toxic plant, so we cannot plant it in places relatively close to us, such as the living room and bedroom, and when planting it in the garden we also cannot plant too many, because its fragrance is toxic.
Then, planting a few roses in the backyard of the home makes the family's life happier and happier. The flower language and symbolic meaning of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower language and symbolic meaning of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower language and symbolic meaning of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower language and symbolic meaning of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower language and symbolic meaning of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower language and symbolic meaning of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower language and symbolic meaning of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. The symbolic meaning of the rose is very obvious. If a family lives together every day and looks at the rose from afar, associating it with the meaning it represents, and thereby cherishing every day of living together with family, happiness begins right there, and this home where they live together also becomes a feng shui home.
Garden uses of roses: landscaping
In landscaping, roses have indispensable value. Among flowers, roses are the most frequently used in northern and southern gardens. Roses are the main ornamental flowers in spring. Their flowering period is long, their ornamental value is high, and their price is low, so they are loved by gardens everywhere.
The "link" role
Because of their climbing growth habit, roses are mainly used for vertical greening and have a unique role in garden street scenes and beautiful flower environments. If they can form pleasing
walkways and flower pillars, made into various arch shapes, grid shapes and frame-type supports for roses to climb on, and then properly pruned and shaped, they can decorate buildings and become a clever "link" connecting buildings with gardens.
Environmental protection role
They can be made into continuous flower hedges, flower screens and flower walls, used in government offices, schools, residential communities, urban squares and other places. They can not only purify the air and beautify the environment, but also greatly reduce noise pollution in surrounding areas and alleviate the greenhouse effect of cities in hot summer.
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of roses
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Hugarden is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow medical advice.
The ultimate flower-protecting task: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow medical advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
[Aliases] Yueyuehong, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Changchunhua, Yueyuehua. Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke.
[Definition]: The dried flowers of the rose, a plant of the Rosaceae family.
[Collection]: It can be harvested throughout the year, picked when the flowers are slightly open.
[Nature, flavor and meridian tropism]: Sweet, bland, slightly bitter, neutral. Enters the liver meridian.
[Efficacy]: Activates blood and regulates menstruation, soothes the liver and relieves depression, reduces swelling and detoxifies.
[Indications]: 1. Liver depression and blood stagnation, irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea, amenorrhea and distending pain in the chest and hypochondrium; 2. traumatic injuries, blood stasis swelling and pain, carbuncles and swellings, scrofula. [11]
[Trade name] Yuejihua. The best quality is flowers that are in bud or just opened, complete, dry, brightly colored and with a clear fragrance.
[Prescription names] Yueji, Yuejihua, Yueyuehong, Sijihua.
The rose is not only an ornamental flower with a long flowering period and fragrant, colorful blooms, but also a good gynecological medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine believes that the rose is sweet in flavor and warm in nature, and entering the liver meridian it has the effects of activating blood and regulating menstruation, reducing swelling and detoxifying. Because the rose has obvious effects of removing blood stasis, promoting qi movement and relieving pain, it is often used to treat irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea and other conditions.
Clinical reports show that when women have amenorrhea or scanty, pale and small-volume menstruation, lower abdominal pain, accompanied by poor spirits and dry bound stools, or when the above symptoms appear during the menstrual period, Shengchun Decoction has a good therapeutic effect. The medicinal composition of Shengchun Decoction is: rose 10 g, angelica 10 g, Salvia miltiorrhiza 10 g, white peony 10 g, plus an appropriate amount of brown sugar, decocted in clear water and taken. The soup tastes sweet and fragrant, with no difficulty in swallowing. Take 3 doses 3-5 days before each menstruation, each time boiling one egg together with it. Its effect is reliable, and it is truly a wonderful formula for regulating menstruation, regulating qi and activating blood.
When rose is used together with bitter orange flower, it is even better as a formula for treating menstrual diseases caused by disharmony of qi and blood. Use 15 g each of rose and bitter orange flower, decoct in water and take. Rose emphasizes activating blood, while bitter orange flower tends to promote qi movement. The two medicines paired together, one qi and one blood, regulate both qi and blood, and their effects of regulating menstruation and activating blood, promoting qi and relieving pain are very good. It mainly treats women with liver qi discomfort, disharmony of qi and blood, and obstruction of meridians by blood stasis, resulting in irregular menstruation, chest and abdominal pain, loss of appetite, or even nausea and vomiting.
For common gynecological diseases, folk single prescriptions and proven prescriptions using roses are also very effective. For example: fresh rose 20 g infused in boiling water and taken can treat irregular menstruation or abdominal pain during menstruation; rose root 30 g, cockscomb flower and Leonurus japonicus 15 g each, decocted in water and used to cook eggs, can treat dysmenorrhea;
For excessive menstruation and excessive vaginal discharge, use rose (or root) 15 g decocted in water and taken, or stewed with pork; rose 10 g and jujube 12 g decocted together, then add an appropriate amount of honey after the soup is ready and take it. This formula is fragrant and sweet, not like medicine, and is very effective for menstrual tidal fever. In addition, women often steep rose petals in water as tea, or add them to other beauty teas for drinking, which can also activate blood and beautify the face, helping people stay youthful.
The cultural background of the rose
One of China's top ten famous flowers. The rose is hailed as the "queen of flowers," and it has a spirit of tenacity and unyieldingness, with a fragrance that carries far.
Status in traditional culture
The rose occupies a weak position in traditional Chinese culture, but new archaeological discoveries show that the rose was the totem plant of the northern branch of the ancestors of the Chinese people -- equivalent to the legendary Yellow Emperor's tribe.
The rose is now the city flower of Beijing and other cities.
Rose Flower Festival, May 1 to May 20. Every year at this time, Zhengzhou holds a Rose Flower Festival. Not only do the organizers present roses of various colors, but ordinary people in the city can also bring out famous varieties they have cultivated at home for many years. At that time the whole city is full of flowers, and parks and streets are filled with beautiful fresh flowers with rich fragrance.
Legend
Long ago, at the foot of Shennong Mountain there was a family surnamed Gao. The family had a daughter named Yulan, just eighteen years old, gentle and quiet. Many young noblemen and princes came to propose marriage, but Yulan did not agree. Because she had an elderly mother who had been coughing and spitting blood all year round, and although many medicines were used, none were effective. So Yulan, without telling her parents, posted a notice seeking medical help: "Whoever cures my mother's illness, I am willing to marry him." A young man named Zhongyuan posted up and presented a formula. After Yulan's mother took his medicine, she indeed recovered. Yulan did not break the agreement and married Zhongyuan. On their wedding night, Yulan asked what miraculous formula was so effective. Zhongyuan replied: "Rose, rose, a good remedy for clearing cough. This is a family secret formula: rock sugar stewed together with rose is a miraculous decoction for clearing cough and stopping bleeding, specially treating women's diseases." Yulan nodded and remembered it in her heart.
National flowers and city flowers of the rose
It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an and Liuzhou.
The national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
The flower language of the rose
The flower language of the rose: waiting for a hope that has hope, happiness, glory, and beauty ever renewed. [13]
The flower language and symbolic meaning of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of black roses: individuality and creativity.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing.
Rose pictures