Is glass begonia toxic? Grow it this way to keep it blooming continuously

Glass begonia is a plant whose flowers are as beautiful as those of begonia. How do you grow glass begonia so it blooms continuously? Is glass begonia toxic:

How do you grow glass begonia so it blooms continuously:

(1) Temperature and light

Glass begonia is a sun-loving plant, so it should be placed in a spot with ample light, which is more conducive to its healthy growth. If it is placed in a spot with insufficient light and dark, damp conditions, it can easily lead to problems such as wilted flowers, yellowing leaves and plant death, which is not conducive to the growth of glass begonia.

In addition, glass begonia can still maintain a good growth state in a colder environment and has high adaptability to temperature. However, when the temperature is abnormal (too high or too low), effective protection should be given to the plant to ensure its growth.

(2) Watering and fertilizing

For growing glass begonia, watering and fertilizing are two indispensable steps. However, both watering and fertilizing should be arranged reasonably according to the actual situation. Generally speaking, glass begonia does not need frequent watering in normal times, and especially must not be waterlogged, otherwise it can easily lead to root rot; this is a fairly drought-tolerant plant. In spring, glass begonia can be fertilized and then given a thorough watering; after the leaves of glass begonia drop in autumn, more fertilizer should be applied to supplement nutrients.

Notes on growing glass begonia:

(1) Soil

The soil used for growing glass begonia generally requires strong air permeability to ensure its ventilation conditions and ensure healthy growth.

(2) Watering

Glass begonia only needs the medium to remain moist; it must not be overwatered, nor too dry. In addition, its leaf surface should be kept clean to ensure that respiration proceeds smoothly.

Is glass begonia toxic:

Glass begonia is a traditional greenhouse potted flower, which shows that placing it indoors will not cause discomfort to the human body, and it does not have the toxicity people speak of, so it can be grown with confidence. In addition, glass begonia can also be used as an ingredient, and with the correct method it can be cooked into delicious dishes.

That is all for the growing methods of glass begonia. Glass begonia is not toxic and can also be eaten.

Growing methods for several common flowers

Growing methods for several common flowers
1. Fringed iris
Fringed iris is a perennial herb in the genus Iris of the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost every province and region across the country, and is also found in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, shallow in the ground, creeping horizontally, and yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green and glossy. The flower stalk rises above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme; the style has 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like forms, rolled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting and is also suitable for flower borders, flower beds and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers damp, shady places and has strong adaptability and cold tolerance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: It is mainly propagated by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is conducive to full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizome and divide it, and replant each segment with 1 to 2 buds. For seed propagation, germination occurs 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and it takes 2 to 3 years after sowing to flower.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. After planting, the rhizome should be pressed firm, and shallow planting is preferable to deep planting. In early spring, remove remaining leaves to help new buds sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month, which can make the flowers abundant and the leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not let it become waterlogged; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which benefits rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the noctuidae moth and can be controlled by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; during the growing period there are also slugs and snails causing damage, so spray with 3% limewater in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around a farmhouse improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; in damp shady spots by the wall, grow shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as fringed iris) and begonia, which will grow well without fine management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemum and scarlet sage can be planted, and ample sunlight will make them grow better; cacti and Sansevieria on the roof still grow well even without care for a long time; where shade is needed, by all means plant a few grapevines, morning glory or Boston ivy by the window or along the fence; even indoors, a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids can be placed on a desk or tea table, which will make the farmhouse courtyard colorful and full of life!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Asteraceae. The whole plant is densely covered with soft hairs, and the leaves are in whorls of three, triangular, resembling cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including blue flowers that are very rare indoors; and the flowering period is long, about 6 months of blooming time, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival and May Day Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color and long flowering, and the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation must be mastered.
Sowing time: generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot, high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, then a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce the radiant heat of the sun.
Seedling moisture control: mainly by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply the seedlings with moisture. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, the seedlings wilt and are hard to recover; if too wet, plus the seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they easily suffer damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of growing soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being relatively suitable. When preparing the growing soil for sowing, note that unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess and fine sand should be mixed at 3:1:1 and then sieved, and no fertilizer should be added, as growing soil prepared this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Overly sticky growing soil cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fibrous roots of the seedlings, leading to seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The growing soil after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place bean cake, bone meal or superphosphate into the growing soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake and fine sand mixed at a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1 to prepare the growing soil, to ensure an adequate supply of nutrients to the plant. Barnyard manure must be composted, rotted and then sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, and after full stirring and mixing and sieving, it can be used as growing soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes a cool climate, fears cold in winter and fears high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it must be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C and often keeping the room temperature at around 15°C for good growth; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or open a sowing bed under a shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., which is more suitable; never water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep the humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully growing cineraria. If too dry, the leaves of cineraria easily remain in a wilted state, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily produces red spider mites and aphids. If watered too much, the indoor humidity is too high, which easily rots the root system, main stem and leaves, and also easily produces aphids; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases easily occur.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichunhua and manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stem is slender, and the branches are thin and weak. The leaves are alternate, with irregularly pinnately lobed blades, serrated, and the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. The flowers are solitary at the tips of the branches, with long pedicels; the flower buds droop and then straighten immediately when the flowers open. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white and tricolor. The flowers fall only 1 to 2 days after opening, but the buds are abundant and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, and the fruit ripening period is July. The seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-tolerant and suited to ample light and a cool climate in spring, and cannot tolerate severe heat and dampness. It is usually sown in drills in flower bed plots in early winter. It has no strict soil requirements, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the film after seedlings emerge. Corn poppy is a taproot flower; its roots are fine, deep and long, with few lateral roots. At the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. If transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is also very low. When drill-sown seedlings are relatively dense, thin them two or three times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy has low water and fertilizer requirements, but dislikes heavy water and heavy fertilizer and waterlogged soil.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and taken out in late April as a flower for the May Day holiday. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds are not visible, and after sowing, soak the pot in water to moisten it. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in growing soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep ample light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging; then it can bloom in March, until the May Day holiday.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, and are not only similar in appearance but also the same in habits. The only differences are that opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit and is covered all over, while corn poppy is smaller and covered all over with sparse hairs. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum; its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has the effect of relieving pain and stopping diarrhea. In warm spring sunshine, patches of corn poppy in the courtyard green space compete to bloom, like clusters of red clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs; when the breeze stirs them, both people and flowers feel as if floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is an herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red and dark brown, etc., and the flowers are adorned with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and are often used as indoor decorative displays. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile area. It likes cool, humid conditions and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained, attention should be paid to ventilation, and ample light is beneficial to the plant's flowering.
Ventilation and shading. Calceolaria likes cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is around 10°C. If during the growing period the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly, while the potting soil is too wet plus muggy, the stem base of the plant will rot. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated, cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, and shading at noon is beneficial to the seeds' development and maturation.
Watering and fertilizing. Calceolaria likes a warm, humid environment, but dislikes overly wet potting soil and too much watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Watering must not directly wash over the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply rotted cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times), and at the early flowering stage apply additional fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques. Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because during the high-temperature period seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the soaking method, and then sow. The seeds of calceolaria are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder granules. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place and keep the temperature at around 20°C; emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass sheet, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted, and when they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the growing soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. In November to December, they can be planted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is upright, and the upper part of the stem is flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and stalked. The spike is terminal, and the flower axis is flattened, fleshy, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 g. It is used for flower beds and flower borders, can also be potted, and is also relatively good as a cut flower; the vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely child-mother cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb and phoenix-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm) and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are differences between early-flowering and late-flowering. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown-yellow, and from jade red, rose red and orange-red to purple-red, and there are also composite colors such as spotted gold and erqiao, which are mixed yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot and dry climate, fears waterlogging, grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, dislikes sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-air-permeable soil, with the inflorescence becoming smaller. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: sow in the open-field seedbed in spring from March to April. When sowing, it is not suitable to cover with soil; after covering with grass, water and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, plant them out or pot them. No fertilization is needed at the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, thin fertilizer can be applied to promote its growth. Seeds easily mutate, so seed selection must be carefully done every year when saving seeds.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be regulated by controlling the sowing period. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June, sowing according to the need for flowers, to meet the need for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm, dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict soil requirements. It can generally be grown in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economies at present, and people of insight may wish to try it.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, choose a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter the seeds evenly on the bed surface, slightly cover and firm the seeds, and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15 to 20°C, seedlings emerge in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. At the seedling stage, weeds must be removed and the soil loosened. When it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply 1 topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately, and in the rainy season strictly prevent waterlogging in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to help nutrients concentrate on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, cotton bollworm is likely to occur; spraying the leaf surface with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called fingernail grass, transparent bone grass, golden phoenix flower and spotted gold flower. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall, with flowers in white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc. The flower types include single-petaled and double-petaled, and it is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C to 32°C. Flowering period: May to July and December to February.
I. Before planting:
The growth of flowers is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, among factors such as temperature, light, moisture and growing medium. Temperature is the main factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate the temperature, planting will not be affected by the season, but after emergence, the plant must be placed by a sunny window so that it receives as much ample sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now it is time to prepare to sow. Before sowing, please confirm once again: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth now available?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil may cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to a mist setting and spray an appropriate amount of water on them;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with a glass pane or plastic sheet to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place without light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination; sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass pane, plastic sheet), and place it in a sunny spot, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and not watering excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, the time of exposure to direct sunlight needs to be gradually increased.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, it should be placed in all-day direct sunlight, and attention should be paid to the dryness of the growing medium, with appropriate watering; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, legginess often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak and prone to falling over, so the light time should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves of the plant receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and the rest need to "move house" - repotting.
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a pit of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, it is better to keep it somewhat on the dry side, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first, to dissipate the chlorine in the tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spouted pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the sides and less near the plant, and trying not to splash on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root-vegetable crop of the genus Lilium. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of growing lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from growing lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is advisable to choose acidic sandy loam with ample light, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7 to 6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best a legume or grass plant, and crop rotation should be practiced; continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30 to 50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs with no leaky bottom, no disease spots and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs, to ensure neat emergence and less disease; planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, spread about 100 kg of lime per mu, deeply plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer per mu, prepare the land and make beds, with a bed surface width of about 1 m and a bed height of 20 to 30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging, then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply rotted chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung cake and other organic fertilizers, 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant the bulbs; the seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed rate per mu is 125 to 150 kg, and the harvest amount one year after planting is 4 to 6 times the seed rate.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them in the air before sowing. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600 to 800 times, rotating use once every 7 to 10 days, spraying continuously 2 to 3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% fenaminosulf mixed into poisoned soil, and evenly scatter it into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested every year from July to August. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Beginning of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dried slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with ample scattered light and is relatively cold-tolerant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and fears strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on an east- or north-facing balcony. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, where it cannot receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower the temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-tolerant, dislikes high temperatures, likes a shady, humid environment and loose, fertile neutral soil; both sandy soil and clay soil result in poor growth. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. Dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and likes moist, well-drained, fertile sandy loam. Both sandy soil and clay soil result in poor growth. Dislikes direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually yellow and it becomes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cutting and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is suitable to carry out in early spring in February after the buds begin to swell and before the new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes with roots around the main rhizome, divide into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, similar to early spring division. Timing must be right; if the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years, and cannot be done every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece bearing 3 to 5 buds, and replant; it can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July every year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are full in growth and development with relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust branches with axillary buds on the lower part into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each section about 10 to 15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and remove some small leaves, insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and its small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water and place in a shady place, often spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil, keeping it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in more than a month. The next spring, pot and plant out with the soil. With good management, it can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, and fertilizer must be avoided. After cutting, water thoroughly, shade, and generally roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-spouted watering can, so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Build an arched shed over the bed surface, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at around 25°C; when too high, ventilate appropriately to cool down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the shed film and straw curtains. The next spring, they can be transplanted and planted out, and bloom in the same year.
For plants in March to April, cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs covering for warmth in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place in a semi-shady spot, and in the rainy season pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizome into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part and separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizome into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then immediately scatter-sow them in the seedbed, water sufficiently, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the winter. The next spring, plant out the vigorously growing young seedlings, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm being suitable. Seed-grown seedlings need 3 years to bloom.
It is generally not used for home propagation, and is adopted by garden departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Bleeding heart cultivation
For field planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deeply turn the bed soil and apply rotted organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdressing can be carried out together with irrigation; in summer high temperatures, when the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy, the dead branches can be cut off, and watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent is beneficial for cold protection. For potting, use light growing soil with added fertilizer to pot it, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny spot for care; during the growing period, give ample fertilizer and water. Move it less during the flowering period, to avoid fallen flowers affecting ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the remaining flowers.
Bleeding heart management
Bleeding heart is cold-tolerant and likes shade, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, it should be watered once a week. During the flower bud formation period, apply 1 to 2 times rotted fertilizer water. It does not need too much watering; keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, apply once every 2 to 3 weeks rotted urine diluted with 5 times water. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin when there are 5 leaves, at a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply once more rotted urine diluted with 3 times water and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh and collect the seeds.
Pests and Diseases of Bleeding Heart
Scale insects: spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. Leaf spot disease sometimes occurs; spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.
Leaf spot disease: spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. Pests include scale insects; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant in the Liliaceae family, Hemerocallis genus, is native to China, Japan and Eurasia. It is now widely cultivated around the world and is an excellent perennial flowering plant for landscaping.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists cold, and adapts to a wide temperature range. It can be grown from south to north in China. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. It can generally be cultivated in all soils except those that are too acidic, too alkaline, too sandy or too clayey. A pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is best.
Propagation Methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. Division can be done by digging up the entire mother clump and replanting it in divisions, or by digging out part of the plants from one side of the mother clump as seedlings while leaving the rest to continue growing.
Division is mostly carried out before sprouting in spring or after leaf drop in autumn. When divided and transplanted in spring, the plants can send up scapes and bloom the same year; when divided and transplanted in autumn, they will only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, select plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality and no pests or diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as seedlings. The dug-out portion must include roots. Cut apart at the shortened stem, remove old roots, decayed roots and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm), and then plant. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing and planting seedlings as you go, minimizing root damage so the plants recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; plants should be vigorous, with plump fruit and no pests or diseases. Sow in spring of the following year.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer. The bed should be 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture. In autumn, the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm. After the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply once with dilute human waste. Use a small arched shed for winter protection against cold. After spring begins, strengthen field management, and transplanting can be done in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature before sowing.
Division by flower buds: Flower buds refer to the small plantlets on the flower stems of Hemerocallis hybrida. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems, and if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root within one week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture: Use young leaves, filaments and flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into young plantlets using appropriate culture media under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. Then transplant the plantlets into nutrient pots, and after a period of cultivation they become seedlings, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate Hemerocallis hybrida. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growth points and root systems, and can be divided again after about 6 months of planting. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corona and use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Hemerocallis hybrida is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although Hemerocallis hybrida is not strict about soil requirements, since it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low water table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must be fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land should be leveled. Because Hemerocallis hybrida has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be maintained at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes arranged in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; too deep and tillering is slow, too shallow and although tillering is fast, the plants mostly grow spindly. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human waste mixed with water as a spot application to establish the seedlings and ensure the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: Hemerocallis hybrida has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow dung or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote vigorous plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, and disease resistance is strong. In the middle and late stages, it can make the scapes emerge uniformly and robustly, the flower buds develop plump, and bud formation ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during flowering, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied alone. Spraying 0.2% monopotassium phosphate can also be used to promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: Hemerocallis hybrida has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period. Therefore, irrigation should be based on the water requirements of daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil moisture should be maintained at 70% to 80% of field capacity, and watered promptly during drought. During the seedling stage, the plants are small and water demand is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, water demand gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the bud stage, the soil must be kept moist frequently to prevent buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Water thoroughly and evenly, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August, rainfall is heavy, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter, frozen water should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivation and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep, and deepen as the seedlings age. Before spring shoots emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence carry out timely shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weed control and drought prevention. Cultivation and weeding should be done when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Remove weeds from the daylily field promptly; if weeds grow densely, they can easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for Hemerocallis hybrida. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabu, is a selective pre-emergence and post-emergence stem and leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent that is very effective in pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and some broadleaf weeds, such as annual grass weeds including crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broadleaf weeds including lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, Galinsoga and mustard; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broadleaf weeds and rice flatsedge such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, Galinsoga and chickweed, but has poor control effect on perennial weeds and most broadleaf weeds; fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem and leaf treatment herbicide with good control effect on annual and perennial grass weeds, but ineffective on broadleaf weeds and sedges. In addition, Surflan, Snapshot and others can also be used to control weeds in Hemerocallis hybrida fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases that daylily is highly prone to. Rust is a fungal disease and the main disease of daylily in the middle and late stages. It begins in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. A small number of yellow powdery spots first appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the entire leaf, eventually causing the whole plant to die. When the disease occurs, spray fungicides such as triadimefon and fentin acetate for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease during the daylily seedling stage. It begins from late March to early April, with peak incidence from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib. After perforation, it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, causing the leaf tip to turn yellow and wither first, and finally the entire leaf to wilt and die. It can be controlled by spraying Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture.
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, but also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward. Small water-soaked spots first appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turning grayish white; in severe cases the entire leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are small, red, spider-like pests that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder and others. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on flower buds; damaged buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco lime water and others. In addition, in trials on Hemerocallis hybrida propagation, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to Hemerocallis hybrida, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, Joseph's lily and trumpet flower, is a plant in the Amaryllidaceae family, Hippeastrum genus. The flower stalks of amaryllis stand gracefully upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun and appearing especially brilliant and pleasing. Because the appearance of amaryllis closely resembles clivia, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which is quite apt. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open garden beds to form community landscapes and add to garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, to make it easier for flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, reached 19.1 million USD in amaryllis sales value in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In China, during the period from 1912 to 1949, potted ornamental amaryllis already existed in Nanjing, Shanghai and other places. In the 1970s, planting around open garden beds began in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Seed sowing and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: Sow indoors in pots from May to June. The optimum germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage. When true leaves reach 3 to 4, carry out the first transplanting and maintain a certain plant spacing. It takes 3 to 4 years from sowing to flowering.
Division propagation: For potted amaryllis, carry out when repotting from February to March. Before dividing and planting, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size. Generally, flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, expose 1/3 of the bulb above the soil surface. Plant in March and flowers appear from April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the excessively old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18 to 20°C, keep moist, and small bulbs form and roots develop at the base the same year. The following spring, new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. Soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash clean with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep room temperature at 18 to 22°C, and maintain relatively high air humidity. After 2 months, several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm require a 12 cm pot, while commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth should be such that 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the potting soil. Water sparingly at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump and well-developed bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced into cultivation; flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days bloom 6 weeks after planting under conditions of soil temperature 21°C and room temperature 17 to 19°C. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seeds are to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out to improve the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germinability, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, cut off the flower stems promptly after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
Peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers and has a cultivation history of more than 3000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are brilliant, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full, making it suitable for landscaping and ornamental use and able to lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful wonderland.
Peony is a perennial herbaceous flower in the Ranunculaceae family. The plant height is about 1 m. Flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top. The flower stalk is relatively long. Flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, heat resistance is relatively poor, and growth stops in hot summers. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under light shade. It likes moisture but fears waterlogging, and is best grown in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peony is commonly propagated by division, and the best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, let them dry in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one division, find the smallest natural connection point and cut apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root sprouting, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and cut short. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring, and after flowering it stops growing upward and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn, all aboveground stems and leaves die, and the underground long spindle-shaped fleshy roots, having accumulated sufficient nutrients, lie deeply in the soil. At the root crown there are dormant young buds that break through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers and loose fertility. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, preferably well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), then deep plow and level the ground.
2. Planting time and spacing:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox). For planting density, ornamental use can be 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1200 plants per mu, and production use can be 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole is generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter, and the seedling depth should be such that the buds are 3 cm below ground level. Finally, fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm and make a 10 cm soil mound to prevent cold and preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivation and weeding: In the following spring, before peony sprouts, level the soil mound from the previous autumn. During the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during prolonged drought.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the terminal bud borne at the top of the stem, peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated so that the main bud flower is large and full; if the side buds are retained, flowering is more abundant and the ornamental period is longer. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: Peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed. If spring drought or summer drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with pollution-free river water. In winter, depending on soil dryness and wetness, one overwintering watering can also be given. Peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer demand, so it can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu). Before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10 to 15 kg/mu). Foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as monopotassium phosphate or trace element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot disease, including red spot disease and brown spot disease. The peak incidence is generally in summer and autumn when temperature is high and humidity is high. In the early stage of disease, spray leaf surfaces with 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution for control; in severe cases, spray with 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times is sufficient for control.
(2) Pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period in July and August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sand to form poisoned bait, spread evenly, then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and cause relatively serious damage to peony. Symptoms include root galls of different sizes on fibrous roots, weakened plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes stunted and eventually dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, apply evenly to affected plots during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals that mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying pesticide, it must never be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. During the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, it can begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bloom with brilliant flowers through frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions. It is cultivated throughout China, and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemum tolerates drought, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by division, cuttings, grafting, sowing and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of fine varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed. For home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply sufficient well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deep plow and harrow finely, and make flat beds. Mix seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with shade netting and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Water with a fine spray to prevent surface soil crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade netting or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can only be sown in early April. The seeding rate is about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens stubble, expose the root crown, cut off side shoots that already have roots together with old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted, well-rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist and avoid waterlogging. In high-temperature seasons, shade is needed, while at lower temperatures a plastic film arched shed can be built to keep warm and moist. Generally, they can be transplanted to the field after 15 days.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in vases, so here are a few tips:
1. Before placing chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the leaves on the lower part of the flower stem that might be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves quickly turn yellow, and leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make chrysanthemums last longer, not only should the water be changed every day, but at each water change, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water-absorbing channels remain unobstructed at all times.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase also need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet in the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients such as white sugar will greatly increase the possibility of bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach solution or a little bleach can be added to the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleach should be adjusted according to water volume, number of flowers and bleach purity).
13. Wax Begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Begoniaceae family, Begonia genus. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and fears exposure to strong sun and rain. Leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and leaf colors include green, dark red and others. Flower colors include bright red, pink, white and others, and it flowers in all four seasons.
Seed propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the potting soil and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, sprinkle evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with glass or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, transplant them into pots, and at this time a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Take cuttings 7 to 10 cm long, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist, and they will root quickly. This can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The potting soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and a diluted fermented liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light but fears exposure to strong sunlight; too much light easily causes leaves to curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plant grow spindly and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and it should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded spot, and fertilization should stop at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips multiple times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After 1 to 2 years of cultivation, wax begonia appears aged, and it can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, then after pinching treatment it can recover its former lush appearance. Repot once a year, removing old roots and dead roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as lady's eardrops and lantern begonia, is in the evening primrose family, Fuchsia genus, and is an evergreen subshrub. Flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of branches, with long stalks; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, often hanging downward. Flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white and others. It flowers in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant forms and flower appearances.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment. Its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate maiden among flowers." Its fertilizer and water requirements differ by season; demand is relatively large in spring and autumn. In the hot summer season, fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering should be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plant should be placed under a shade frame to ensure safe overwintering through summer. After autumn cools, it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape in a timely manner, and promote side branches. Generally, it can bloom 2 to 3 weeks after pinching, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty after flowering, so cuttings are usually used for propagation. This can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young shoots root most easily. Select strong, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert into sandy soil to a depth of one node. Maintain a temperature of 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. Pot the plantlets promptly with culture soil, and pinch promptly to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with vigorous pruning for propagation, and the old roots around them should be cut away to rejuvenate the plants. One advantage of spring cuttings is that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If plants lose leaves in summer, they should generally be cut back promptly after the Beginning of Autumn to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer should be applied, so they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is essential. For a good clivia, growing skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, so that growing clivia is easy and efficient, and the clivia grown will be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity. Here are views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. However, different plants have different requirements for water, and water quality also differs from place to place. Clivia's water requirements are as follows:
Water acidity and alkalinity: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH of about 6.5. Water acidity and alkalinity differ from place to place. If the water is not neutral or slightly acidic, consideration should be given to improving it. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water and others differ in water quality. Clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals, so it should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, soil aeration will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of shallow, skimpy watering a little at a time is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the water content in the soil has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow clivia usually tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound produced. A dull sound indicates relatively high water content in the soil, so watering is not needed; conversely, a crisp sound indicates relatively low water content in the soil, so water immediately. The reason shallow watering is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the roots, almost equivalent to not watering.
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large. Watering time is best in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so watering is not suitable. Watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period of scape emergence and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: Clivia's roots are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile soil with good water permeability and aeration, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil texture: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. Humus soil is best made from oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of larch, hazel, pear, apple and others can also be used, but pesticide factors should be noted. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; too high a rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and aeration are poor.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and increase water permeability and aeration, some larch pine needles, carbon from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace slag can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, soil acidity and alkalinity differ among regions, so neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an indispensable important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilization of clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and leaves will wrinkle or growth will stall; too little will lead to nutrient deficiency, slow growth of clivia, and leaves that are obviously narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and others, after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, make very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring and September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, so as to avoid root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and others, after full fermentation, make good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer, with quick fertilizer effect but short duration, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, so liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto clivia leaves or the heart, so as to avoid leaf rot or heart rot. After each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer. Inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and its effect is faster. The growth of clivia emphasizes nutritional balance, requiring not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed. When growing clivia indoors, it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light). In summer, light is strong, so shading treatment is needed to prevent burning the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism, so regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat; if conditions permit, the direction of leaf extension should be aligned with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean. Frequently wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool it down. Above 30°C and with low humidity, leaf luster will diminish; high temperature with abundant water will make leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high-temperature disease, leading to the whole plant rotting.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment. Low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will cause the leaves to lose their delicate luster and become rough with dull color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, fresh and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; this is the reason. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight; do not expose to strong sun. In summer, clivia should be shaded from strong light all day. Using the oblique sunlight for a while in the early morning each day is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures; do not let it become dry. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C. It is best placed in an air-conditioned room, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, and water once every day after 6 p.m. Do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth; do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia, so stop fertilizing. Moderate watering and humidity control are effective measures. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is strong, pour out the upper soil from the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix evenly and put it back into the pot. This not only reduces fertilizer effect but also helps lower temperature.
4. Prevent dust pollution; do not water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean. Once a week, dip fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction; do not put clay (loess) into the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, aerated, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease; do not cause infection. When changing soil or wiping leaves, movements should be gentle to prevent roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, which can trigger infection and cause decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes cool, humid environments with sufficient light. The optimum growth temperature is 15 to 20°C. Below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and flowers easily wither; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In hot summer regions of China, cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in Kunming, Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, summers are cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28000 to 36000 Lx; if higher than 45000 Lx or lower than 15000 Lx, photosynthetic intensity decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade frame. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for potted cyclamen propagation and cultivation: cultivation techniques
Seed propagation is mostly used. Sow in September and flowers appear in winter of the following year. It can also be propagated by cutting the tuber, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation is to maintain a cool but not overly wet environment during the summer dormant period. Bulbs 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old bulbs are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so seed propagation is generally used. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be virus-eliminated. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing date according to the desired flowering time. Generally sow 13 months before the desired flowering time, and even early-flowering varieties require 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done from September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seed soaking to promote germination can be done before sowing (virus-eliminated seeds sown immediately do not need germination promotion). Soak seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a damp cloth to promote germination, and treat at 25°C for 1 to 2 days. When the seeds show slight movement, take them out and sow. For sowing soil, use equal parts vermiculite and fine furnace slag; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite; or equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. Sow in spots at a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot soaking method to keep the potting soil moist. At 18 to 20°C, germination occurs in 30 to 40 days. When the seedlings grow 1 true leaf, divide the seedlings at a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil mixed in a ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, keep the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, maintain moisture, and place in low light during the recovery period. After growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, keep the temperature at 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let fertilizer solution contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them.
2. Tuber division method: For excellent cyclamen varieties that set fruit poorly, tuber division can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye. Coat the cuts with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then pot and plant. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is rarely used.
In recent years, extensive international research has been conducted on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen. The successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture, in which the tuber is cut into pieces and cultured aseptically to form regenerated plants; 2. Cuttage using leaf buds with some tuber tissue attached; 3. In the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then dividing it with longitudinal cuts to form regenerated shoots, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and well-developed tuber, and divide it 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May to June. First, adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter of 4 cm or less) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter of more than 4 cm) longitudinally, to a depth that does not damage the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the incision spacing is 1 cm. A tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the flower pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until periderm forms at the wound, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20 to 30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture from the time of division. The pot can be weighed together at the time of division, and every 2 to 3 days the lost water is replenished according to weight. From 70 to 80 days after division, adventitious buds form on each cut piece; lower the temperature to 15°C to allow gradual adaptation to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water supplied, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed, and they can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11 to 14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy, requires no complicated techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have uniform traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to propagate clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in hybrid F1 seed production.
III. To meet the demand for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date. By making use of the strong tolerance of seedling-stage plants to high temperatures and placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shading, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June to July.
3. Use certain volatile chemicals to break or promote dormancy of the bulbs in order to control the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5 cm of ether and treating for 24 to 48 hours rapidly breaks the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restores growth, and advances flowering. As another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside cyclamen tubers about to sprout can keep the tubers from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up, while in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; later the lesions expand and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect through water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500- to 600-fold solution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodelaradicicola. Soil temperatures of 25 to 30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, and they invade the roots to form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: sterilize the soil; burn affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500-fold solution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500-fold solution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can unfold verdant leaves and produce plain, elegant, fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is given frequently and changed often, it can bloom after 25 to 30 days of growing. However, several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and it enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be planted in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After being put into the pot, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry, withered scale pieces on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil compact, then place the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the flower pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when roots have grown from the basal plate, place the flower pot in a sunny place for growing. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering only when dry and watering thoroughly, that is, do not water if the soil is not dry, and once watering, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use washed clean fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot until 3 cm below the pot rim, then place the narcissus head with old scale pieces and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, then add about 1 cm of sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When using sand to plant narcissus heads, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old scale pieces and old roots cleanly, then place them in a narcissus flower pot for growing, add water to about 1 cm at the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After roots grow from the basal plate, place in a sunny place until flowering. For water culture of narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in graceful and varied forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal cut line from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines layer by layer, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and it will also bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping differ. After carving and shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2 to 3 days. When the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it into a narcissus pot, add water, and grow it in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown to about 1 cm, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for growing. Remember that during the growing process the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1 to 2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight. In this way, the cultivated flowers will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in posture.