What to Do When the Leaves of Wax Begonia Curl and Turn Yellow, and Is It Toxic?

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens) is one of the begonia species, and it is a favorite of many people. So, what should you do when the leaves of wax begonia curl and turn yellow? Is wax begonia toxic? What to do when the leaves of wax begonia curl and turn yellow: Overwatering. Wax begonia likes a relatively humid climate, so places with high humidity suit its growth.

What to Do When the Leaves of Wax Begonia Curl and Turn Yellow:

1. Overwatering

Wax begonia likes a relatively humid climate, so places with high humidity suit its growth, but waterlogging in the soil must be avoided. If you water too much, or the plant is hit by a storm, the potting soil will become waterlogged, causing the roots to rot and the leaves to turn yellow.

To prevent this scenario, pay attention to water control when watering, and move the potted plant to a cool, ventilated place. Wait until the leaves turn green again before resuming normal care. In severe cases, you can prune the plant to encourage new shoots to sprout from the base. In summer, potting soil that is too dry will cause the plant to wilt and the leaves to turn yellow and withered.

2. Insufficient Light

Wax begonia likes a semi-shaded, semi-humid environment. In the height of summer, exposure to strong light will scorch the leaves and make them curl. Move the plant to a ventilated, cool place with appropriate shading; if the damage is not too severe, it can recover to normal.

However, if the plant grows in a place with insufficient light, its growth will be weak, its vigor will decline, it will produce few flowers, and the flower color will be pale. Therefore, apart from shading needed during the high heat of summer, in spring and autumn it should be placed in a spot with ample scattered light. In winter, when temperatures are lower, it can be placed on a balcony in direct sunlight to ensure photosynthesis.

3. Improper Fertilization

During the growing period, if too little fertilizer is applied and there is no base fertilizer, the plant will grow short and small, with insufficient nutrients, and the leaves will be pale or yellow. If too much fertilizer is applied, and especially if heavy fertilizing continues in summer, it will lead to disease, root rot, and yellowing leaves.

Is Wax Begonia Toxic?

Many plants can purify the air and release oxygen, while some plants release toxic substances or allergenic pollen, but most plants grown in homes do not release harmful substances. "Toxic" is a relative term. Take ultraviolet rays, for example: moderate exposure is beneficial to the human body, while excessive exposure may cause cancer. By the same token, wax begonia does not release excessive harmful substances. Sometimes the fragrance of certain flowers is good for the body and can help prevent disease. As long as you pay attention to air circulation when growing it, there will not be any major problems.

That covers how to deal with yellowing leaves on wax begonia. Wax begonia is not toxic.

How to Grow Several Common Flowers

How to Grow Several Common Flowers
1. Fringed Iris
Fringed iris is a perennial herb in the genus Iris, family Iridaceae. It is distributed in nearly every province and region of China, and is also found in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, grows shallowly and horizontally, and is yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long, and sparse raceme. There are 3 style branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like form, reflexed and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also works well in flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers damp, shady places, and has strong adaptability and cold tolerance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in a moist, fertile, sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division is best done after flowering or in autumn, which favors full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig up the rhizomes and divide them, replanting each section with 1 to 2 buds. For seed propagation, seeds germinate 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and plants take 2 to 3 years after sowing to bloom.
Cultivation, pests, and diseases: Apply plenty of base fertilizer before planting. After planting, press the rhizomes firmly; plant shallowly, not deeply. In early spring, remove dead leaves to encourage new shoots to sprout. During the vigorous growing period, water thoroughly, and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Keep the soil moist during flowering, but avoid waterlogging. After flowering, apply one topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which benefits rhizome development. After the flowers fade and the rhizomes enter dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the noctuid moth; spray with 40% omethoate EC at 1000 times dilution for control. During the growing period, slugs and snails can also cause damage; spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around a farmhouse both improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
Plant one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees as specimen plants or in facing pairs in the courtyard; this is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement. Along walls in damp, shady spots, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as fringed iris) and begonia, which will grow well without elaborate management. For potted flowers on the balcony, small plants like Milan and Chinese rose are more suitable. On the sunny side, you can plant sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage; ample sunlight will help them grow better. On the roof, cacti and sansevieria will still grow well even with long periods of neglect. Where shade is needed, consider planting a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or along the fence. Even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern or orchids on a desk or tea table. This will make the farmhouse courtyard colorful and full of life!
2. Florist's Cineraria
Florist's cineraria is a perennial herb in the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered in soft hairs. The leaves are arranged in whorls of three and are triangular, resembling cucumber leaves, hence the name "cucumber-leaf chrysanthemum" in Chinese. Its flowers are brilliant and richly colored, including a blue flower rarely seen indoors. It also has a long flowering period of about 6 months, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and May Day. It is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, growing a cineraria potted plant with good plant form, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering is not easy, and you must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Florist's cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate heat and high temperatures; its optimum growing temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade frame or under tree shade. If sowing in beds, a shade frame must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiation heat.
Moisture control for seedlings: Mainly reduce the temperature of the seedbed by spraying water mist, while also supplying moisture to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough. Do not let the seedbed soil become too dry, and do not let it become too wet. If too dry, wilted seedlings are difficult to revive; if too wet, and the seedlings are in a high-temperature period, they are prone to damping-off, leading to a low survival rate.
Preparation of growing medium: Florist's cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well-drained, with a suitable pH of 6.5 to 7.5. When preparing the growing medium for sowing, mix unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a ratio of 3:1:1, then sieve it, and do not add any fertilizer. A growing medium prepared this way is beneficial for seed germination and growth. A growing medium that is too clayey cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the seedling's fibrous roots, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The growing medium after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing, to harden off the seedlings. For potting, evenly add soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate as base fertilizer to the growing medium, or prepare a growing medium with barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand in a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1 to ensure an adequate nutrient supply for the plant. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, thoroughly stirred and mixed, and sieved before use as the growing medium for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Florist's cineraria likes a cool climate, avoids cold in winter, and avoids high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be grown in a greenhouse, generally maintained above 10°C, and often kept at around 15°C for good growth. In summer, place the sowing box under a shade frame, or prepare a sowing bed under the shade frame, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m.; never water at noon, so that the seedlings can successfully pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Florist's cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements for good growth. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully growing cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves are often in a wilted state, which is unfavorable for leaf growth, makes the leaves prone to yellowing, and also makes red spider mites and aphids more likely. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, the roots, main stem, and leaves are prone to rot, and aphids are also more likely. If the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, disease is likely.
3. Corn Poppy
Corn poppy, also known as Shirley poppy and "spring all over the garden," is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the genus Papaver, family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stems are slender, with weak branches. The leaves are alternate, irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrated edges; the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the tips of branches, with long pedicels; the buds nod, then straighten when the flowers open. Many horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. Corn poppy flower colors are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor. Each flower lasts only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are abundant and open in succession. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical; the fruit ripens in July. The seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-tolerant and suited to ample spring light and a cool climate, and cannot tolerate severe heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed plots in early winter. It has no strict soil requirements, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the film after seedlings emerge. Corn poppy is a taproot flower; its roots are fine and deep, with few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, root length often exceeds plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted with difficulty, the survival rate is very low. When drill-sown seedlings are too dense, thin them 2 to 3 times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy has low water and fertilizer requirements, but dislikes heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and moved out in late April for use as May Day holiday flowers. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just until the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing, soak the pot in water to moisten it. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, finally leaving 3 to 5 plants to grow on. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in growing soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep light adequate and the air fresh, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging; they can bloom in March and continue until May Day.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also sharing the same habits. The only differences are that opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit and is covered all over, while corn poppy is smaller and covered with sparse hairs. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap, its components do not include opium tincture. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has analgesic and antidiarrheal effects. On a warm, bright spring day, patches of corn poppy in the courtyard green space vie to bloom, like red clouds or pieces of silk handkerchiefs; when the breeze stirs them, both people and flowers feel as if floating.
4. Pocketbook Flower
Pocketbook flower (Calceolaria) is a herbaceous plant in the genus Calceolaria, family Scrophulariaceae. Flower colors include yellow, purple, red, creamy white, orange-red, and dark brown, with colorful spots and markings on the flowers, very lovely, and often used as indoor decorative displays. It blooms from December to February of the following year; under greenhouse cultivation, the flowering period is March to April.
Pocketbook flower is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It likes cool, humid conditions and can grow indoors in winter at 3°C to 6°C. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained, and attention should be paid to ventilation; adequate light is beneficial for flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Pocketbook flower likes cool conditions, with an optimum growing temperature of around 10°C. If the stems and leaves grow luxuriantly during the growing period, while the potting soil is too wet and the air is stuffy and hot, the stems will rot and leaves will fall. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated, cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work must be done well, and shading at noon helps the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Pocketbook flower likes a warm, humid environment, but dislikes overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Do not pour water directly onto the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. Fertilizing must not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Pocketbook flower is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high temperatures. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, water thoroughly by the soak-pot method, and sow. Pocketbook flower seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at about 20°C, and seedlings can emerge in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to about 15°C.
When the seedlings have 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. Once they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. The growing medium uses 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil mixed together, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted into larger pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and cockscomb amaranth, is named for its inflorescence, which is twisted and folded like a rooster's comb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is erect, flattened in the upper part, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, tapering at the tip, with entire margins and petioles. The spike is terminal, with a flattened, fleshy rachis in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety sheen. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 g. Used in flower beds and flower borders, it can also be potted, and is also fairly good as a cut flower; vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely child-and-mother cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb, and phoenix-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm), and tall-stem types (above 60 cm). Divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering distinctions. Colors range from very pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown-yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange-red to purple-red, and there are also mixed colors such as speckled gold and Erqiao, with yellow-series and red-series intermixed.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot, dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, dislikes clayey soil, and grows poorly in barren, poorly aerated soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in open-ground seedbeds in spring, March to April. When sowing, do not cover with soil; after covering with straw, water and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering straw. Transplant when 2 leaves have grown. When seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, plant out or pot up. Do not fertilize during the seedling stage, otherwise side branches will grow vigorously and affect main branch development. After the cockscomb forms, apply light fertilizer to promote growth. Seeds tend to vary, so select carefully every year when saving seed.
Cockscomb flowering time can be adjusted by controlling the sowing date. Generally, sowing can be done from March to June, and sowing according to flower needs can meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm, dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging. However, it has no strict soil requirements; it can generally be grown in ordinary courtyard soil. It is a new approach to developing courtyard economies at present, and those with insight may wish to try it.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, select a good plot, apply plenty of base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter seeds evenly on the bed surface, cover the seeds slightly, firm the soil, and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15 to 20°C, seedlings emerge in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm; the thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, be sure to weed and loosen the soil; when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply one topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately; in the rainy season, strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the lower leaf axils can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, cotton geometrid moths are likely to occur; spraying the leaves with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvest and processing: Generally around White Dew, when the seeds gradually turn black and mature, cut off the flower stalks in time and dry them in a ventilated place. When drying, take them out early and bring them in before evening; do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden Balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, bone-penetrating grass, golden phoenix flower, and speckled gold flower. It is native to China and India and can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, bronze-red, etc., and the flower forms are single and double. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C to 32°C. Flowering period: May to July and December to February.
I. Before Planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, water, and growing medium. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by the season, but after seedlings emerge, the plants must be placed by a sunny window so they can receive as much ample sunlight as possible.
II. When Planting:
Good, now prepare to start sowing. Before sowing, please confirm once again whether the conditions required for seed germination and growth are now available.
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention: on the surface of the flower seeds, cover only a thin layer of soil at most, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; intuition is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, germination will become difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to mist mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on them.
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic wrap to reduce water evaporation.
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation.
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes can affect seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, when the first pair of leaves on the sprout has unfolded symmetrically, immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic wrap), and place it in a sunny spot, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and not watering excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it in all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately. When the second pair of true leaves grows, it means the most difficult stage of planting has passed; as long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, weak, and prone to falling over. The light duration should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and move the rest "to a new home" - repot them.
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When removing the seedling, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system spread fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, keep the soil moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat drier, so that the surface soil is dry while the interior remains moist, which is better.
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight.
3. It is best to let water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water.
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spout pot, starting from a place away from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the edges and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root-vegetable crop in the genus Lilium. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation and management, unit yields have been relatively low. To achieve better economic benefits from growing lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is best to choose acidic sandy loam with ample light, deep soil, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7 to 6.3. The previous crop should preferably be a legume or grass-family plant, and crop rotation should be practiced; continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selecting good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large bulbs, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. It is generally propagated with small bulbs (single bulb weight 30 to 50 g). Lily bulbs easily carry disease, so healthy bulbs without basal rot, disease spots, or mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and less disease. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If seed sources are insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep-plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate three-element compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface is about 1 m wide and the bed height is 20 to 30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed organic fertilizers such as chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, and tung oil cake, at 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant; the seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, and the seed rate per mu is 125 to 150 kg. The harvest after one year of planting is 4 to 6 times the seed amount used.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600 to 800 times, rotating once every 7 to 10 days, and spray continuously 2 to 3 times.
Insect pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate or 50% fenaminosulf mixed into poisonous soil and evenly scatter it into the planting furrows. For aphids, spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: Harvest can be done from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before Start of Autumn gives the highest yield. Harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dry-slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dried slices, while small bulbs below 50 g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shaded environment with ample scattered light, is relatively cold-tolerant, and fears severe summer heat and high temperatures and strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it should be placed under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shaded side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During summer dormancy, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, where it cannot receive direct sunlight, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-tolerant, avoids high temperatures, likes a shady, humid environment and loose, fertile neutral soil; both sandy soil and clay soil are poor for growth. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. It goes dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and likes moist, well-drained, fertile sandy loam. Both sandy soil and clay soil are poor for growth. It avoids direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring; after flowering, the stems and leaves gradually yellow into summer and then it goes dormant.
Propagation of Bleeding Heart:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding Heart Division Propagation Method.
It is best done in early spring in February, after the buds begin to swell and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the young rhizomes with roots around the main rhizome, dividing into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady spot. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, similar to early spring division. Timing must be right; if the old plant's new leaves have already unfolded before division, the roots are easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 to 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. In March before sprouting, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along their segments, with each piece carrying 3 to 5 buds, and replant; they can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can form in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding Heart Cutting Propagation Method.
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are fully developed and have relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each about 10 to 15 cm long, keeping one leaf at the upper end and thinning out some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and its small leaves exposed above the soil surface. The plant and row spacing is 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady spot. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in about a month. The following spring, pot up with soil for final planting. With good management, they can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must absolutely not be applied. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-spout watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Build a low arch over the bed surface, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shaded environment. Control the temperature at around 25°C; when too high, ventilate appropriately to cool it down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the film and straw curtains. The following spring, they can be transplanted for final planting, and they bloom in the same year.
Plant in March to April; cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-grown bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place them in a semi-shaded spot; in the rainy season, be careful to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Alternatively, cut the rhizomes into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along their segments, and plant them separately. You can also cut the rhizomes into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding Heart Sowing Propagation Method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and sun-dry it, winnow the seeds clean, then scatter-sow them in a seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to keep the seedlings alive through the winter. The following spring, plant out the robust young seedlings, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm. Seed-grown seedlings need 3 years to bloom.
Home propagation generally does not use this method; garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Bleeding Heart Cultivation
For field planting, choose a higher-lying area. Before planting, deeply dig over the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer. During the growing period, topdress in combination with irrigation. In summer, when temperatures are high, the stems and leaves turn yellow and enter dormancy; the dead branches can be cut off. Water thoroughly once before Frost's Descent to help protect against cold. For potting, use a fertilized lightweight growing medium, pot up, water thoroughly after planting, and keep it in a sunny place for care. During the growing period, provide ample fertilizer and water. Move it less during the flowering period, so as not to cause flowers to fall and affect ornamental value. After flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Bleeding Heart Management
Bleeding heart is cold-tolerant and shade-loving, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, water once a week. During flower bud formation, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1 to 2 times. Do not water too much; keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, apply well-rotted urine diluted 5 times with water once every 2 to 3 weeks. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin when there are 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply well-rotted urine diluted 3 times with water once more and wait for it to bloom. In July, collect the black fruits, sun-dry them, and thresh to collect seeds.
Bleeding Heart Pests and Diseases
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate EC at 1000 times dilution for control. Leaf spot disease sometimes occurs; spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage, there is harm from scale insects, spray-kill with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
The large-flowered daylily (Hemerocallis hybrida) is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family, native to China, Japan and Eurasia, and now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial flowering plant for landscaping.
The large-flowered daylily has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range; it can be planted from south to north in China. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil; apart from excessively acidic, excessively alkaline, excessively sandy or excessively clayey soils, it can generally be cultivated in most soils, with a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5 being preferable.
Propagation methods
Dividing the daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to carry out, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug up and replanted separately; or a portion of plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting stock, while the remainder is left to continue growing.
Division is mostly carried out before sprouting in spring or after leaf fall in autumn. If divided and transplanted in spring, the plants can send up scapes and bloom the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, they will only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, are of good quality, and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as planting stock; the dug-out portion must have roots. Cut apart at the shortened stem, remove the old roots, decayed roots and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm), and they are ready for planting. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that the plants recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing planting stock in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; the plants are required to be robust, with plump fruit and no pests or diseases. Sowing takes place the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer; the bed is 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture; the seedlings can be lifted and planted in autumn. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm, and after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of thin human waste. For overwintering, use a small arched shed to protect against the cold; after spring begins, strengthen field management, and transplanting can be done in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Bud division. Flower buds refer to the small plantlets on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems; if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root within a week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture. Plants are cultivated from young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into young plantlets on a suitable medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots, cultivated for a period into young plants, and afterwards planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
Besides the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the flower crown, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Planting of the large-flowered daylily is mostly carried out in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although the large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil requirements, because it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to use level ground with a low water table or sloping land with a good water source and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly reclaimed wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to raise its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes in a triangular arrangement, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; if too deep, tillering is slow, and if too shallow, although tillering is fast, the plants mostly grow spindly and weak. Generally the planting holes are more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human waste mixed with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization. The large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Besides applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow dung or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust growth of the plants and enlarge the leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud-forming ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and late stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neatly and thickly, the flower buds develop plumply, and bud-forming ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during flowering, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; nitrogen fertilizer alone must not be over-applied. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation. The large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period, so irrigation should be based on the water needs of the daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil water-holding capacity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, and they should be watered promptly in drought. At the seedling stage the plants are small and their water needs are also small. From the start of reproductive growth, water demand gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept constantly moist to prevent the flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once a week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding. After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivation and weeding should be carried out. At the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil; after emergence, shallow hoeing should be done 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Cultivation and weeding should be carried out when soil moisture is moderate, and can stop once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Remove weeds in the daylily field promptly; if weeds grow in profusion, they easily trigger pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or with herbicides suitable for the large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as nabuqing, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grassy weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, green foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as amine nitramine, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent, with very good pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual grassy weeds like crabgrass, goosegrass, green foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds like goosefoot, amaranth, chickweed, galinsoga and mustard; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual grassy weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, green foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, galinsoga and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge; it has poor control efficacy against perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-buthyl is a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide with good control of annual and perennial grassy weeds, but is ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also Surflan, Snapshot and other mixed agents, all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control. Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylilies are highly prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylilies in the middle and late stages; it begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and only gradually stops after October, harming leaves and flower scapes. At first a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then they gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies; when the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and sodium dimethyldithiocarbamate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylilies at the seedling stage; it begins to occur from late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation, the transport of water and nutrients is interrupted, the leaf tips first turn yellow and wither, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early-to-mid June, and mainly harms the leaves, also harming the flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward; at the middle edge of the leaf, small water-soaked spots first appear, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, finally turning grayish white, and in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are tiny red mites shaped like spiders, mainly piercing and sucking sap on the underside of leaves; grayish white spots appear at the damaged sites. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder and the like. Aphids mainly occur in May, first harming the leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on the flower buds; the damaged flower buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco-lime water and the like. In addition, in breeding trials of the large-flowered daylily it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to the large-flowered daylily, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, Barbados lily and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stem stands gracefully upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing to the eye. Because the amaryllis resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red". In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave", which captures the idea quite well. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is also planted in open-ground gardens to form community landscapes and add to the garden scenery. In recent years, to make it convenient for flower growers, horticulturists in Europe and America have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, had amaryllis sales output value reaching 19.1 million USD in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In China, during 1912-1949, potted ornamental amaryllis already existed in Nanjing, Shanghai and other places, and in the 1970s it began to be planted around open-ground gardens in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
It is commonly propagated by sowing and division.
Sowing propagation: use indoor pot sowing in May to June; the suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management at the seedling stage; when there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: potted amaryllis is divided when repotting in February to March. Before dividing, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, one third of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Planted in March, they flower in April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely adopted abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: choose well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the excessively old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem disc. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18 to 20°C, keep them moist, and small bulbs form and roots grow at the base the same year. The following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: choose bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash them clean with water, cut off one third of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place them flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18 to 22°C and maintain relatively high air humidity; after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. A flowering bulb with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm needs a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on one third of the bulb being exposed above the pot soil. Water little at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump and robust bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced into cultivation: flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, planted under conditions of soil temperature 21°C and room temperature 17 to 19°C, flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking treatment with chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seeds are to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin and easily lose water and lose germinating ability, they should be sown immediately after collection. If bulbs are being produced, cut off the flower stems promptly after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, leaf spot disease and nematode disease. Leaf spot harms leaves and flowers.
11. Chinese peony
The Chinese peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3000 years. Chinese peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are graceful, and the plant clumps are full; used for greening and ornamental purposes, it can lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful dreamland.
The Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. The flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stems are relatively long. The flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Chinese peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open ground in most areas of northern China. However, their heat resistance is relatively poor, and growth stops in hot summers. They like sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under light shade. They like moisture but fear waterlogging, and are suitable for growing in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkaline land is not suitable for cultivation.
Chinese peonies are commonly propagated by division, with the division time preferably from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, let them dry in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of the Chinese peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring; after flowering, upward growth stops and the number of leaves no longer increases. In late autumn all aboveground stems and leaves die, while underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate abundant nutrients, buried deep in the soil, and at the root crown there are dormant young buds ready to emerge, breaking through the soil when spring returns to the earth the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil on high, dry terrain with good drainage, deep soil layers, and loose fertility. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, preferably well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), and only after deep plowing and leveling can planting proceed.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm may be used, planting about 1200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm may be used, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the holes are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter; the depth of the seedling is preferably such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface, and finally the holes are filled with soil, tamped solid, and a 10 cm soil mound is piled up to protect against cold, preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, appropriate watering may be done for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivation and weeding: in the following spring, before the Chinese peony sprouts, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long droughts.
(2) Removing side buds: besides the bud borne at the top of the stem, the Chinese peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated so that the main bud flower is large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers are abundant and the ornamental period is long. This can be decided independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: the Chinese peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed; if there is a long spring drought or dog-day drought, water once or twice, preferably with unpolluted river water, and in winter, depending on soil dryness and wetness, one winter irrigation may also be given. The Chinese peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer requirement, so it can be fertilized twice a year: before winter begins, apply some long-acting fertilizer, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10 to 15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot disease, including red spot disease and brown spot disease. The peak incidence period is generally in summer and autumn seasons with high temperature and high humidity. In the early stage of disease, 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution can be sprayed on the leaves for control; in severe cases, use 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution and spray once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times is enough for control.
(2) Pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak outbreak period in July to August, 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl aqueous solution can be mixed with organic fertilizer or sandy soil into poisoned bait, spread evenly, and then deeply hoed. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and relatively serious harm to Chinese peonies; the symptoms are root nodules of different sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes dwarfed and even dies. For control, 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m can be evenly applied to affected plots during the rainy summer period, followed by deep hoeing of 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals and mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must never be applied too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. In the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylength shortens, it can begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bravely bloom gorgeous flowers in the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions. It is cultivated throughout China, and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemums are drought-tolerant and fear waterlogging, and like loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by many methods such as division, cutting, grafting and sowing. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of good varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only carried out in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally mostly used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation. Before sowing, apply sufficient well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, and deeply plow and finely harrow to make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast them, then cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick. After sowing, cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can only be sown in early April, with about 0.2 kg of seed per mu.
2. Division propagation. In mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens stubble, expose the root crown, cut off the side shoots that already have roots together with old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation. Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted, well-rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm long, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the seedbed moist, avoid waterlogging, provide shading in high-temperature seasons, and when the temperature is relatively low, build a plastic film arched shed to keep warm and moist. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like to put chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the leaves on the lower part of the flower stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves quickly turn yellow; leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period last long, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water-absorbing channels can always be kept unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleaching powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleaching powder should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleaching powder).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids scorching sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red and so on. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white and so on, and it flowers in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the pot soil and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, scatter evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, transplant them into pots, and at this time a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist; they will root quickly. This can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management. The pot soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and a thin composted liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light but avoids direct sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow spindly and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is easily damaged by cold. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and fertilization should stop at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips multiple times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years, it appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to stimulate new shoots; after pinching treatment again, it can recover its former luxuriant appearance. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as lady's eardrops and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of branches, with long pedicels; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular and often droops downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white and so on, flowering in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant forms and flower postures.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate maiden among flowers". Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ by season; in spring and autumn the demand is relatively large. In the hot summer season, fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe overwintering through summer. After the autumn cools, it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch the growing tips in good time and shape the plant to stimulate side branches. Generally two to three weeks after pinching, it can bloom, so pinching is also commonly used to control the flowering period. The pot soil is preferably fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam; it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets seed with difficulty after flowering, so cutting is usually used for propagation, which can be done throughout the year but is best in spring. One-year-old young shoots survive most easily; choose robust, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to the depth of one node; maintain the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. The young seedlings should be potted promptly with culture soil, and the growing tips pinched promptly to stimulate side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, heavily pruned in combination with propagation, and the surrounding old roots cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Spring cutting has an advantage, namely that the young seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves in the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old". If the plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the Beginning of Autumn they should be cut back immediately to stimulate new branches, and liquid fertilizer applied, and they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has vigorous vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; and only then will the clivia one grows be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Here is a discussion of these six aspects:
1. Water: as is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. But different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
pH of water: clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. Water quality and pH vary from place to place; if the water is not neutral or slightly acidic, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ from one another in water quality; clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals and should usually be stored for several days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: the suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability of the soil will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will dehydrate the plant, causing the roots to shrivel and wither.
Watering method: the principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving just a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The dryness mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the water content in the soil is relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow clivia usually tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound produced. A dull sound from tapping indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high and watering is unnecessary; conversely, a clear sound indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low and watering should be done immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature should be close to the soil temperature, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening, and at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, watering is not suitable; watering should avoid the heart of the plant, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: clivia roots are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable and well-aerated soil, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made from Mongolian oak leaves (oak leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple are also acceptable, but attention must be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a degree of rotting of about 50%; too high a degree of rotting is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon made from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace cinder can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the pH of soil differs in different regions; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: as the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an indispensable and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilization of clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will cause a lack of nutrients, slow growth of clivia, and the leaves will noticeably narrow, become soft and no longer upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and the like, after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring and September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and the like, after full fermentation, make good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer; its effect is quick but its fertility is short-lived, and it can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied multiple times, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or heart, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect faster. The growth of clivia emphasizes nutritional balance; it needs not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also why people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed; indoor clivia should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light). In summer, when light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism, so regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat; if conditions permit, the direction in which the leaves extend should be aligned with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: the suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature; above 30°C with low humidity will make the leaf luster diminish, high temperature with abundant water will make the leaves grow too long, and high temperature may even cause high fever disease, leading to the whole plant rotting away.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough with dull color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; the reason lies precisely in this. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts".
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to the scorching sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight in the early morning for a while each day is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; placing it in an air-conditioned room is best, and a shaded, ventilated balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been left in the sun for two or three days, watering once after 6 o'clock every afternoon; do not let the pot soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the pot soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper layer of soil from the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, stir well and put it back into the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, aerated, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent diseases, do not cause infection. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being broken and exuding sap, which triggers infection and causes decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The suitable growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and the flowers easily wither; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In hot summer regions of China, cyclamen is in a dormant or semi-dormant state at that time; while in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily harmed and rots to death. At the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing period, the relative humidity is preferably 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to daylength, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28000 to 36000 Lx; if higher than 45000 Lx or lower than 15000 Lx, the photosynthetic intensity decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Sowing is mostly used for propagation. Sowing in September results in flowering in the following winter. The method of cutting the tuber can also be used for propagation, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation is to maintain a cool but not overly wet environment during the summer dormant period. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing. Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be subjected to virus elimination treatment. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and they can be sown. Determine the sowing date according to the time flowers are to be supplied. Generally sow 13 months before the time flowers are to be supplied, and even early-flowering varieties need 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seed soaking to hasten germination can be done before sowing (virus-free seeds sown immediately need no hastening). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap them in a damp cloth to hasten germination, treat at 25°C for 1 to 2 days, and when the seeds slightly begin to sprout, take them out and sow. For sowing soil, equal parts vermiculite and fine furnace cinder can be mixed; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite mixed; or loam, leaf mold and river sand mixed in equal parts. Sow in spots, at a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot-soaking method to keep the pot soil moist; at 18 to 20°C, they germinate in 30 to 40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, divide the seedlings at a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil mixed in the ratio of 5 leaf mold, 3 loam and 2 river sand. When planting, make the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep moist, place in weak light during the recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light and strengthen ventilation; the temperature is preferably 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let fertilizer liquid contaminate the leaves, to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them.
2. Tuber division method. For excellent varieties of cyclamen that set seed poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to carry a bud eye; coat the cuts with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and they can be potted and planted. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is rarely used.
In recent years, international research has been conducted on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen in many aspects. The successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. Cuttings using leaf buds with some tuber tissue attached; 3. In the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it longitudinally into sections to form regenerated seedlings, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and full tuber and divide it 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable time for division is May to June. First, adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, but especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, and also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter of 4 cm or less) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter of more than 4 cm) longitudinally, with the depth not injuring the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the incision spacing is 1 cm. A tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the flower pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20 to 30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together at the time of division, and every 2 to 3 days the lost water can be replenished according to weight. 70 to 80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11 to 14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to perform, and does not require complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have uniform traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to propagate clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. In order to meet the need for flowers at different periods, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date. By taking advantage of the relatively strong tolerance of young plants to high temperatures and placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and they will flower in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy in plants, or to break or prolong dormancy in dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, if phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied additionally, appropriate shading is provided, and they are placed in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C, they can continue to flower until June to July. ⟧6⟧3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote dormancy of the bulb in order to control the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5 cm of ether and treating for 24 to 48 hours can quickly break the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restore growth, and advance flowering. For another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can prevent the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
3. Use certain volatile chemicals to break or promote dormancy in bulbs, so as to control the flowering period. For example, injecting or fumigating with aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds can break dormancy. For instance, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, place 0.5 cm of ether and treat for 24 to 48 hours; the cyclamen tubers will quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and bloom earlier. As another example, placing a cloth ball soaked in an ester solution such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside cyclamen tubers that are about to sprout can keep the tubers from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly disinfected; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken, and later the lesions expand and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500- to 600-fold solution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by Heterodera radicicola. Soil temperatures of 25 to 30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, invading the roots and forming root galls. Infected plants grow weakly, lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: disinfect the soil; burn infected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500-fold solution of dimethoate. Spider mite damage is also seen; spray with a 1500-fold solution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can unfold green leaves and produce plain, elegant, fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a sense of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is maintained at around 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, frequent watering, and regular water changing, it can flower in 25 to 30 days. However, several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and it enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be planted in a pot about 20 to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After potting, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry outer scales of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm from the rim of the pot. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil compact, then place the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the flower pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the basal plate has grown roots, place the flower pot in a sunny place for cultivation. For soil culture, watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and letting dry between waterings; that is, do not water when the soil is not dry, and once watering, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise root growth will be damaged.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3 cm from the rim, then place the narcissus head with old stem scales and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, add about 1 cm more sand, and bury the lower stem of the narcissus head about 1 cm into the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When cultivating narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place into a narcissus flower pot for cultivation, add water to about 1 cm at the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After the basal plate grows roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, by changing the water every day, the water stays clean and the roots grown are also white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry outer scales of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal cut line from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed. At this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom. The growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and also bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. Carved and shaped narcissus heads should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2 to 3 days. After the mucus is cleaned, take them out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put them into a narcissus pot, add water, and cultivate in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown about 1 cm, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently once a day, spray water frequently 1 to 2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight. In this way, the cultivated flowers will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.;

What to Do When the Leaves of Wax Begonia Curl and Turn Yellow, and Is It Toxic?

How to Grow Several Common Flowers

Related Articles