Can you take rose cuttings in October? An introduction to the number of rose varieties
Roses have very high ornamental value, and quite a few people grow roses themselves. Can you take rose cuttings in October? How many varieties of roses are there?
Can you take rose cuttings in October:
Rose cuttings can be taken all year round, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are most suitable. For softwood cuttings in summer, pay attention to water management and temperature control. Otherwise they will not root easily. Winter cuttings are generally taken in a greenhouse or polytunnel; if taking cuttings in the open ground, be sure to add moisture-retaining measures. Cuttings are mainly divided into hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.
The most suitable rooting temperature for the cuttings is 20-25°C, and they generally root in about a month. Cover with film to retain moisture for about 1 week, leave 2 leaves at the top, and when the leaves dry out, spray water twice a day.
It is best to use a hotbed for propagation by cuttings. Water thoroughly with a spray bottle and let them root: put heat-generating horse manure or leaves in the hotbed. Generally, callus formation only occurs above 8°C. Roses are mostly propagated by cuttings in spring above 15°C, or in early summer or early autumn (personally, I think early autumn cuttings survive best)
How many varieties of roses are there:
1. Groundcover rose
Among rose varieties, the groundcover rose produces the largest number of flowers; each blooming period can produce up to 100 flowers. The groundcover rose is only less than 20 cm tall, but it sends out many branches, and its coverage area can reach about 1 sq m. The groundcover rose is drought-tolerant, tolerant of high temperature and high humidity, blooms in masses, and flowers continuously through all four seasons.
2. Peace rose
Among rose varieties, the Peace rose was bred in France, and it was the most remarkable rose variety of its time, because people longed for peace during the war years, so this great rose variety was named the Peace rose. The flowers of the Peace rose are pure white, giving a feeling of holy beauty.
3. Red Hat rose
Among rose varieties, the Red Hat rose belongs to the flowering shrub category, and is evergreen or semi-evergreen. It originated in Sichuan, Yunnan, Jiangsu and other places. The flowers of the Red Hat rose have a glossy surface, * on both sides, and the petioles and leaf rachises are scattered with prickles. The flowers of the Red Hat rose can be dark red, pink, or nearly white, with a slight fragrance. The flowering period is in April, and the fruit ripening period is from September to November.
4. Large-flowered hybrid tea
There are many varieties of large-flowered hybrid tea roses, and they form the main body of modern roses. Their characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large blooms, elegant and beautiful flower form, many bright and lively colors, fragrant scent, and strong ornamental value. The main white varieties include White Walter, Kennedy, Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Titanic, White Christmas, etc. * include Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold, Gold Plate, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc. Blue varieties include Blue Moon, Blue Peace, Blue Sapphire, Blue Ribbon, Jacaranda, Blue Perfume, Blue River, Heaven, etc.
Alright, that is all for the introduction to rose varieties. Roses can be propagated by cuttings in October.
Can you take rose cuttings in October? Which month is best for rose cuttings
The rose is a plant with high ornamental value and is easy to keep alive, so the seasonal influence on rose cuttings is relatively small. So, can you take rose cuttings in October? Which month is best for rose cuttings?
Can you take rose cuttings in October
Rose cuttings can be taken all year round, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are most suitable. For softwood cuttings in summer, pay attention to water management and temperature control. Otherwise they will not root easily. Winter cuttings are generally taken in a greenhouse or polytunnel; if taking cuttings in the open ground, be sure to add moisture-retaining measures. Cuttings are mainly divided into hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.
Growing conditions for roses
The most suitable rooting temperature for the cuttings is 20-25°C, and they generally root in about a month. Cover with film to retain moisture for about 1 week, leave 2 leaves at the top, and when the leaves dry out, spray water twice a day.
It is best to use a hotbed for propagation by cuttings. Water thoroughly with a spray bottle and let them root: put heat-generating horse manure or leaves in the hotbed. Generally, callus formation only occurs above 8°C. Roses are mostly propagated by cuttings in spring above 15°C, or in early summer or early autumn (personally, I think early autumn cuttings survive best)
Methods for taking rose cuttings
1. First, choose the branches well -- not too tender, and not too old. You should choose current-year branches that are plump, flexible, and have not yet sprouted flower buds, cut them off, trim the top into a flat cut, and use a sharp knife to cut the lower part into a horseshoe shape (about 45-60 degrees) 5-8 mm below a node. In spring, summer, and autumn, keep the topmost two small leaves and remove the rest.
2. Buy a little vermiculite (available at flower markets), put it in a porous plastic basket similar to a tofu tray, with a thickness of 10-12 cm, scrape it level with a wooden board or ruler, and then insert the cuttings into the basket. Space them 5-6 cm apart and insert them 3-5 cm deep. Then water thoroughly. Prop the basket up on two bricks to help with drainage.
3. Place the planted rose cuttings in a shaded place or under the shade of a tree; they can get a little sun in the morning and evening. For the first 4-5 days, spray water more often each day to keep the leaves from dehydrating; it is best to see water constantly dripping from under the basket. After that, spray once each in the morning, noon, and evening. Gradually reduce the frequency of spraying until spraying once every 3-5 days. As long as the temperature is suitable (between 15-28°C), most will form callus tissue and gradually root. It is winter now, so temperature is the key factor. If it is 20-28°C, they will root in just over 10 days. A lower temperature is fine too, it will just take longer.
4. After the rose cuttings root, the two small leaves left earlier will fall off, and new buds will sprout. At this point they can be moved into the sun. After the new leaves turn green, you can spray a 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves to make the roots fuller and stronger.
5. After the rose cuttings survive, there is no need to transplant them in a hurry. Wait until the roots age and turn brown before transplanting; the survival rate will be higher.
6. If conditions allow, after cutting the branches, soak them in a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for 5-10 minutes, which both disinfects and promotes rooting. Of course, you can also dip them in some rooting powder.
7. If the holes in the plastic basket are too large, lay a layer of nylon gauze at the bottom to prevent the vermiculite from leaking out when watering.
Management of roses after cutting
1. After cutting, if the weather is clear and the temperature is high, open the film at both ends of the seedbed at noon to ventilate. Otherwise, sunscald is likely to occur, and large numbers may die in early spring. In mid-November, seal the film tightly.
2. Watering and removing the film: after watering thoroughly at the time of cutting, do not water again afterward. If the soil surface turns white, you can sprinkle some water appropriately.
After winter begins, a frozen layer forms underground, and the seedlings are not short of water. Around Rain Water and Awakening of Insects, observe the temperature of the seedbed; ventilate promptly when it is above 20°C, otherwise the seedlings are very likely to be scorched. Remove the film gradually as the young seedlings unfold their leaves.
3. Pest control: from late March to early April, when the buds on the cuttings are about 1 cm long, they are easily attacked by aphids. Pay attention to preventing aphids. You can fumigate with 80% dichlorvos, that is, place five cotton balls with medicine about 0.6 cm in diameter per 2 sq m, and remove them after 2 hours. Observe after 1 week, and place them again if there are still insects. At this time, special attention should be paid to pests, otherwise the harm to the seedlings is enormous.
A method to improve the survival rate of rose cuttings
Below are two cutting methods. The first is a pruning method that improves the survival rate, that is, girdling for one week and then cutting off for propagation. The second method uses the pruned leftover branches for cuttings; this is the method of soaking them in water and then trimming them into suitable cuttings.(An important note: a rose branch that has just had its flower base cut off is not suitable for cuttings, because it is too tender and prone to dehydration and infection, and the survival rate is very low. It is July now, and the branches that sprouted between March and May are the most suitable for cuttings. Even if too-tender branches survive, the plants are very weak and grow much more slowly than ordinary cuttings. If you are unwilling to cut other branches, you can cut off the flower base and then girdle, and after 2-3
weeks cut it off for propagation)
(I see many people carrying small knives and preparing to go to parks to steal flowers. It is indeed a good way to increase varieties. Rose seedlings bought online are very expensive, and even after spending money and effort they may not survive, so this unethical behavior is not entirely unacceptable. Try to pick some useless branches, and just do not damage other people's plants. Bring two plastic bags with some soaked paper towels inside, remove the leaves and excess parts from the cut branches, and stuff them into the wet paper towels. This can keep the branches fresh and prevent them from pricking you when placed in your pocket.)
First method: girdle, then cut the branch for propagation after one week
1. The seedlings chosen for cuttings must not be too tender, nor should you use branches that have already become woody. It is suitable to choose thicker, sturdier branches whose color shows deep green.
In the image, the green part in the middle is suitable for cuttings; the part above is too tender, and the part below is already brownish and beginning to become woody, so it is not suitable.
2. At a point 1 cm below the bud eye, remove a ring of outer bark about 0.2-0.3 cm wide. Cutting it off for propagation after one week gives the highest survival rate. Because my rose is still in its flowering period, it is hard to work on, so I can only demonstrate with an image. To ensure 100% survival, you can refer to the air layering method provided by other flower growers. That is, wrap mud around the notch, and roots will definitely appear in about a month. The disadvantage is that air layering is only suitable for strong branches, and the quantity is small and the speed is slow. It is not as fast and simple as the cutting method, because the branches used for cuttings can even be the leftover branches after pruning roses, and dozens of seedlings can be propagated at one time.
Second method: using the pruned leftover branches for cuttings
The image below shows weak branches about to be cut for propagation. Unless it is for commercial purposes or you are determined to spare nothing for propagation, flower growers usually are unwilling to prune strong branches for propagation. Weak and miscellaneous branches are more suitable for everyone to practice with. If they succeed, it is certainly a delight; if they die, there is no heartache.
Summer is not suitable for rose cuttings. The temperature is high and the humidity is also high, and roses find it very difficult to sprout above 30°C. Bacteria in the soil also multiply in large numbers at this time, causing infection of the seedling roots. 90% of cutting failures are not caused by being sun-dried to death, but by soil bacteria infecting the cuttings and killing them
The result after pruning. Remember to cut while submerged in water, and do not let the cut surface be exposed above the water, to avoid the siphon effect letting air enter the water-conducting vessels of the branch. Because the branch does not yet carry out metabolism on its own, it cannot absorb water from the soil, and this little bit of water inside it is very important for sustaining its life before rooting. Remove excess leaves; it is better if you can keep a few, but it is fine to have none.
3. Each cutting should have 3 bud eyes, and the bottom of each branch must have a bud eye (the branch fork part is most suitable as the bottom, as it roots easily). Do not insert the cutting too deep, otherwise the lower part will rot. If the internodes are long, the soil surface should be between the bottom and middle buds. If the internodes are very short, it is enough for the second bud to just touch the soil surface.
4: A little extra note on the growing medium. I have done several experiments during this period and found that cuttings in pure perlite have the highest survival rate. But perlite is relatively expensive after all, so I found a lower-cost material, namely burned coal cinder (I believe it is easy to find, right?), crush the coal cinder into fragments and mix it with ordinary clean soil at a 1:1 ratio to make a cutting medium, and the effect is also quite good, because the coal cinder structure is loose and full of hollow spaces inside, which can both retain water to keep the soil moist and prevent water accumulation in the pot from causing root rot. However, the above two media have almost no nutrients to speak of, so after the seedlings grow steadily they should be transplanted into a suitable medium.
5. Water thoroughly immediately after cutting, and do not touch the cuttings again. Even if they grow small leaves later, do not touch them, because a single touch can easily create gaps between the bottom of the branch and the soil. Plants that were clearly alive can turn dead (which is why some people say the more you care, the faster they die).
6. For cuttings in spring and autumn, it does not matter if they are placed in the open air. In summer, pay attention to avoiding light. They can get morning sun before 10 a.m., but at noon and in the afternoon the tray must be moved to a cool place, otherwise they will be sun-dried into sticks. Once the branches show wrinkled skin, there is basically no saving them.
7. Normal cuttings may stop growing after producing 2-3 leaves. Do not disturb them; this is the root-building process. If this situation lasts for about half a month, they can be transplanted with soil. Be sure to keep the soil, and the larger the root ball the better. The roots of cuttings grow horizontally, so if they are too close, new roots will be damaged.
8. Transplanted young seedlings should avoid strong midday light, but can receive morning and evening sunlight. After about half a month, they can receive full sun in the open air all day.
Because some people have asked questions that all relate to basic common knowledge about plant growth, I will give everyone a little lesson here.
1. Why do rose cuttings sprout before they root?
Budding in cuttings is driven by the nutrients contained within the branch and has nothing to do with roots. Young buds produce growth hormone (indoleacetic acid), which is transmitted downward to the bottom, inducing the wound at the bottom to heal and root. This is a long process. The branch's nutrients are limited, and the hormones it produces are not much either. The early budding and growth hormones almost exhaust all its resources. After that, it must rely on the new leaves to produce energy through photosynthesis. The young plant must not be disturbed, because the water needed for photosynthesis can only be obtained through close contact with the soil at the bottom.
People call this situation "false survival." Only when roots have grown and a second round of budding appears is it called true survival.
Therefore, when choosing branches, everyone should choose sturdier, plumper branches. Too-tender branches, due to insufficient accumulated nutrients and excessive water content, are prone to infection or dehydration and death, while too-old branches have already become completely woody, the buds have lost viability, and they are also not easy to keep alive.
2. At what stage can they be transplanted?
After cuttings sprout, they will stop growing for a long time, even 1-2 months. Do not fertilize, but once a week you can spray a little dilute foliar fertilizer to nourish them. When the second round of budding occurs, it shows that the roots have already formed.
Usually the second round of budding will not flower. The roots are still young and small, not enough to absorb sufficient water and nutrients to promote flowering, so after growing a few leaves they will stop growing again. This is the suitable time for transplanting.
When transplanting, keep as much soil as possible. Everyone must remember this. If no soil is kept, the plant will need a period of recovery and adaptation before it can grow normally.
3. Why does the girdling method (ring barking) have a higher survival rate?
The structure of a branch is mainly divided into two major parts: the inner wood and the outer bark. Water and trace elements are absorbed by the roots and transported upward through the inner wood vessels, while the nutrients produced by the leaves through photosynthesis are transported downward through the outer bark tissues. Girdling means cutting off the pipeline that transports nutrients downward, letting nutrients accumulate at the cut, healing in advance and producing connective tissue. When it is inserted into the soil, it avoids the risk of infection by soil bacteria (infection begins from the outer bark), and because nutrients are sufficient, it also sprouts faster.
In theory, the longer the branch remains on the plant after girdling, the more nutrients accumulate, but it cannot be extended indefinitely. Cutting it off for propagation within 1-3 weeks is most suitable. Because when the plant does not receive the nutrients that the cut-off branch would have transported downward for a long time, it will think this branch has aged or is close to death, and will no longer or will reduce the water and other elements it supplies upward, shifting them elsewhere to accelerate the start of new buds, for example in the lower part of the branch. Therefore, after girdling, the time the branch remains on the plant should not be too long, otherwise the water and nutrients it receives will become fewer and fewer, while photosynthesis and new bud initiation consume large amounts of stored nutrients, and a strong branch ends up becoming a weak branch.
4. Why do some people wrap mud around the branch after girdling?
Wrapping in mud is the air layering propagation method.
Continuing the topic above.
When the branch receives fewer and fewer nutrients from the roots, it must save itself. Callus tissue has already grown at the cut, and as long as there is a suitable environment, it can root and absorb what it needs on its own. Moist soil is exactly the suitable environment for rooting.
So the air layering method is "cuttings on the tree." The survival rate can reach 100%. The disadvantages are that the number propagated is small and the time is long. It is suitable for home use, but not for large-scale propagation methods such as flower farms.
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Experiences and insights on rose cuttings
1. Using river sand for cuttings makes success easy (key point), because rose cuttings must not be too wet or too dry. For someone like me who cannot control water well, this is key. Although with sand, excess water will flow out by itself if you water too much, young seedlings also do not like being soaked in water every day, so controlling yourself is also key.
2. To succeed, patience comes first.
1 Be patient, hold back and do not water too much!
2 Be patient, hold back and do not pull them out to look!
After cutting, they may continue to sprout and grow leaves, but that is consuming the nutrients of the original branch, because it has not yet grown roots at all and cannot provide enough nutrients over the long term. Once those are used up, there is nothing left but drying up and dying. So, it is better not to choose branches that have already sprouted too much. Generally, there is not much change in about a month after cutting. You may think: why is it not growing? Could something be wrong? Has it rooted or not? I really want to pull it out and see! But to ensure it can survive, you should still hold back. Do not be too curious, and do not worry too much. As long as the branches and leaves are still green, it shows that at least it is still alive.
-- It is just tenaciously struggling against fate, adapting, recovering, and working hard to grow roots, so it has no time to sprout. We just need to avoid disturbing it.
3 Be patient, hold back and do not keep moving it around looking for a better "environmental spot"!
3. Choosing branches is very important (key point)
4. The best seasons for cuttings are spring, autumn, and winter, because roses are temperate flowers that fear heat and prefer warmth and coolness, so let us give them what they like.
5. You must ensure you have at least 2 months to care for them
The reason is simple. They cannot lack water or be too dry, and about 2 months after cutting, light should be appropriately increased -- they should get sunlight before 9 a.m. and after 5 p.m., and these are things you need to judge. If you feel it is too sunny, they certainly cannot stand it either, so you should avoid it.
6. Do not keep too many leaves, and do not have no leaves at all. It is best to keep mature dark green leaves, which can guarantee the nutrient supply for future rooting and sprouting.
7. Only repot after new buds have appeared and new leaves have begun to grow.
About 2.5 months after cutting, by then it has already survived and grown more fibrous roots, and is no longer afraid of small injuries. But you still need to be very careful when moving it to a pot, and do not, when changing
pots, badly damage the roots that were so hard to grow.
8. Place it in a cool place to recover for 7 to 10 days, letting the newly surviving young seedling adapt to the new potting soil environment, and then enter normal management and care to let it grow strong. OK, the new plant has been successfully propagated~~~ (Reposted from Yu Zi Ai Chi Yu)