Does Dahlia pinnata bloom in winter? A full analysis of its propagation methods

Dahlia pinnata and Dahlia are not the same thing; they are two different plants. So, does Dahlia pinnata bloom in winter? What are the propagation methods for Dahlia pinnata?

Does Dahlia pinnata bloom in winter:

Dahlia pinnata has a very long flowering period, and because the climate and environmental conditions differ from region to region, the flowering period also differs. Generally, flowering can last 4 months——5 months.

The propagation time for Dahlia pinnata is not so fixed and can be carried out in stages. If the care conditions meet the growth needs of Dahlia pinnata, it can basically have flowers in all four seasons.

For Dahlia pinnata grown from seed, transplanting and setting out are done after true leaves appear. From sowing to flowering basically takes about 2 and a half months. Dahlia pinnata is relatively heat-tolerant, and it can bloom when the temperature is kept within a suitable range. Therefore, in order to enjoy Dahlia pinnata flowers at different times or to enjoy more of them within a year, it is necessary to plant Dahlia pinnata in stages.

If Dahlia pinnata is planted in February, after a period of growth it generally can bloom around May Day. If Dahlia pinnata is planted in July, it can bloom around National Day. If Dahlia pinnata is sown in October, then heat preservation measures need to be taken well, and artificial supplemental lighting should be given in time. Water and fertilizer management as well as pinching also need to be done well.

Sufficient light and suitable temperatures are beneficial to flower bud differentiation in Dahlia pinnata, making the flowers more numerous and beautiful. If light is insufficient, flowering will be reduced and growth will be poor. During the growth period of Dahlia pinnata, pinching is needed to control plant height, and pinching can also be used to control flowering. Pinching starting from the base of the Dahlia pinnata plant can form more branches and make it bloom more.

In addition, during the flowering period of Dahlia pinnata, more water is needed in summer, while less water is needed in spring and autumn.

What are the propagation methods for Dahlia pinnata:

1. Seed propagation of Dahlia pinnata

Dahlia pinnata is mostly propagated by seed.

When propagating Dahlia pinnata by seed, flower seeds are needed, but during natural pollination, the seeds of Dahlia pinnata are prone to variation, so it is best to use seeds from artificial pollination for seed propagation.

In northern regions, sowing is carried out in early May, either by dibbling or drilling. When the seedlings grow to 5——7 leaves, they can be transplanted. Sow the seeds of Dahlia pinnata and cover lightly with soil, keeping the temperature at 15℃——20℃, and they will germinate after one week. When the seedlings of Dahlia pinnata grow 5 leaves, they can be transplanted and set out. When transplanting, to avoid damaging the root system, they can be transplanted with soil. After Dahlia pinnata has recovered from transplanting, proper care is all that is needed.

2. Bulb division propagation of Dahlia pinnata

The underground part of Dahlia pinnata has bulbs or corms. As these underground corms gradually grow, they will produce new small bulbs, which can be separated for bulb division propagation.

Bulb division propagation is relatively simple to operate. Cut off the small bulbs and bury them in soil. When planting, be careful not to bury the small bulbs too deep; when covering with soil, try not to let the soil layer thickness exceed one times the corm.

Management of Dahlia pinnata bulb division propagation is still very simple. After the seedlings grow, normal management is all that is needed.

3. Division propagation of Dahlia pinnata

Division propagation of Dahlia pinnata can be carried out in early spring.

When dividing Dahlia pinnata, take the mother plant out of the flower pot, remove excess potting soil, and use a small knife to separate Dahlia pinnata from the roots into several plants. Each plant must have roots, and the leaves should be trimmed.

Disinfect the small Dahlia pinnata plants, and after they dry, they can be potted. After potting, water once thoroughly, place Dahlia pinnata in a shaded place for care, and within the following month water sparingly. You can spray water on the leaves every day, and do not fertilize.

All right, friends, now you all know that Dahlia pinnata can bloom in all four seasons.

What flowers are suitable for spring sowing?

Complete flower planting manual

Flower planting manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower planting manual (February chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to move from winter dormancy into the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do a good job of the preliminary preparations for cuttings, grafting seedling raising, and sowing seedling raising for some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or cuttings with plastic film covering for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches from cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia, Daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for treatment, so as to be used for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, Buddha's hand, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with plastic film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. by cut grafting. In regions south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and propagate excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti' by cut grafting, adopting bagging and gas-filled moisture-retention measures, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, and graft excellent rose cultivar scions by cut grafting or cleft grafting, adopting measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantonensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Liriope, Liriope variegata, Reineckea, Rohdea, Dicentra, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, Bromeliads, Tradescantia zebrina, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered Spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina, holly species, Ardisia, and winter cherry can be picked. After treatment, carry out sand storage to promote germination, and sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

    In February, attention should be paid to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be dibbled, while small seeds can be drilled or row-sown. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to keep warm and moist.

    2. Transplanting and setting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and set out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be set out. Among them, deciduous species such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, ginkgo, Liquidambar, Acer species, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (carried out before budding and leaf expansion), Magnolia species, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Tripterygium, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Euonymus japonicus, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (in-tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively large amounts of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased, so work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue to be done carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the plastic tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the plastic tunnel, continue to hang straw curtains; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protective facilities, ventilation and air exchange should continue to be done well. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept in the home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because the temperature in February is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulation occurs in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds to shrivel and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically be consistent with the indoor and in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, Calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits brightly colored. Especially for peony, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds, so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium purchased from greenhouses, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse differ greatly from those in the home, if water is not frequently sprayed on the leaves, the leaves often become shrunken and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and water should be sprayed on the plants 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially when the temperature continues to rise for several consecutive days, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for landscaping trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done in a timely manner. Especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be given around noon on sunny days to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most landscaping trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10℃ to 15℃, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, Belgian rhododendron, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Vriesea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and tree stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. planted in the ground or potted that have finished flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, only 2 to 3 buds are retained at the base, and all the rest are cut off, promoting many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and irregularly shaped branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting can best be carried out when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end and the root system is recovering growth while the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Kalanchoe, Amaryllis, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera, Clerodendrum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1500 times liquid for spraying, once every 10 days, continuously spraying 2 to 3 times.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder 1000 to 1500 times liquid can be used for spraying.

For potted Belgian rhododendron in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plant is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000 times can be used for spraying to kill them. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as Pseudococcus, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, black brown round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate 2500 times liquid, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clean up fallen branches and leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc. After about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dried, package it well in plastic bags for use. The fully composted and sun-dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially for growing flowers on balconies, where it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing culture soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and dig garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0℃, to prevent plants from freezing to death or artificially bonded rocks from freezing and cracking and disintegrating, causing losses that should not occur.

Flower planting manual (March chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have relatively high requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus praecox, banana, clustering bamboo, etc. Regardless of how the light is in your courtyard and whether it is dry or wet, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, the following points should be noted: first, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting to the soil and climate; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many. A small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve landscaping and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, Osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and ground cover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, garden balsam, lupine, daisy, Calendula, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and ground cover plant species include: Ophiopogon, Liriope, Reineckea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris, Rohdea, Tradescantia zebrina, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus, Saxifraga, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in household courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements can be selected for planting, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian rhododendron, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, Pachira, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia, Bromeliads, Zamioculcas, Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Syngonium, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota, Areca, bottle coconut, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, some types with relatively extensive management requirements can be grown, such as Nandina, Cycas, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, cactus species, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling raising after sand storage and germination promotion include: Cycas, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus, Livistona, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: garden balsam, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, geranium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Sabina, Daphne, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should preferably be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Pinus parviflora, etc. by side grafting; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliflora seedlings as rootstock, propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc. by cut grafting; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc. by cut grafting; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of excellent Chimonanthus praecox cultivars, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, giving a relatively high survival rate; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, graft and propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted and propagated in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, Dicentra, Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and setting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and expand leaves; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting of Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting, is not a problem, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be taken. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial to flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some thin and weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, cut them off in time and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., after leaf expansion, spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. in time, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and set out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, variegated Liriope, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes, Iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, Ophiopogon, red-flowered Oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea liquid, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer liquid.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with loose, fertile fresh culture soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, Cycas, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian rhododendron, Ardisia, Citrus aurantium, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and equal attention must be paid to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March, cold protection and heat preservation work must still continue to be done. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera, Syngonium, Ficus elastica, Araucaria, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers in regions north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia (Fuchsia), glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), white orchid (Michelia alba), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), fish-tail palm (Caryota), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus), and begonias (Begonia), carry out necessary pruning in conjunction with repotting, including removing diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak spindly branches, and some yellowed leaves. For plants grown mainly for their trunk character, such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese fringetree (Chionanthus retusus), oak (Quercus), and redbark syzygium (Syzygium buxifolium), wiring and pruning can also be done in March before bud break to further refine their shapes. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), and forsythia (Forsythia), vigorous rejuvenation pruning can be done after flowering and before new growth emerges.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony cultivation

Not every urban household can have a small courtyard, nor can everyone live on the ground floor with a decent little environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some highly tolerant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate their interiors, improve their living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony cultivation fall into several categories. One category is the relatively drought-tolerant species: their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their bodies are fleshy and thick with abundant sap, or their leaves are small and transformed into needle-like forms with minimal transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, making them extremely drought-tolerant, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus monstrosus, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, Euphorbia tirucalli), elephant bush (Portulacaria afra), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), echeveria (Echeveria), living stones (Lithops), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), leaf cactus (Pereskia), and kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). There are also wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), spider lily (Lycoris), white spathe (Spathiphyllum), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum); these flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, making them quite suitable for balcony cultivation. Another category is the flower species relatively tolerant of direct sun exposure and hot dry winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony container growing (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), bowstring hemp (Sansevieria), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), agave (Agave), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), oak (Quercus), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water willow (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), sabina (Sabina chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), chaste tree (Vitex negundo), euonymus (Euonymus), longevity peach (Prunus persica), and portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora). In addition, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron (Philodendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), Schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), and Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) can also be grown as slightly lower-tier balcony container plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony container flowers

Annual herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony containers, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), marigold (Tagetes erecta), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), and petunia (Petunia hybrida), can be sown in shallow trays for seedling raising at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus) or clivia (Clivia miniata) seed is collected, wash it clean and sow it indoors first; once the outdoor temperature reaches around 15°C, move it to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), echeveria (Echeveria), elephant bush (Portulacaria afra), Euphorbia tirucalli, and Crassula lycopodioides can be cuttings-propagated indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, then moved to the balcony after warm spring weather returns.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors near a window with good light: gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), fuchsia (Fuchsia), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), dwarf pomegranate (Punica granatum), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), nandina (Nandina domestica), daphne (Daphne odora), and Ardisia crenata, but the pot opening must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora 'Albifolia'), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), longevity peach (Prunus persica), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), bagging is required to retain moisture; otherwise survival is difficult.

(2) Management of balcony container flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony containers are still indoors in March. While taking measures for heat preservation and cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively tolerant trees and shrubs placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing; if the potting soil freezes, it can cause frost heaving of container plants, which not only affects the plant's normal growth that year but in severe cases can cause the plant to die. Measures can include building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For trunk specimens such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), water willow (Adina rubella), and small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be done. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, watering once every 3 to 5 days and giving appropriate misting. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), longevity peach (Prunus persica), and camellia (Camellia japonica), necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to help them maintain a good plant form. Give the plants a thorough cleanup, pruning off pest- and disease-infected branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on trunks, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar as a preservative treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) placed on top. Using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, in summer place on it some flowers that prefer humid air, such as orchids (Orchidaceae), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), giant taro (Alocasia), Xanthosoma, Ardisia crenata, and nandina (Nandina domestica). The stored water is ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before the container flowers are moved out of the house, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing container flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade netting in summer, so that once the container flowers are moved out and encounter overly intense sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of a year of balcony flower growing.

Flower Growing Handbook (April chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm moist air flow from the south becomes increasingly strong, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, it no longer poses a threat to container flowers in most areas south of the Huaihe River; only in areas north of the Huaihe River and Yellow River does the danger of snow and frost remain. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze-Huaihe region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most container flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in the Huaibei region, container flowers cannot be moved out until after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-related activities include the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower (Cleome spinosa), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor), portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), morning glory (Ipomoea), cypress vine (Quamoclit pennata), round-leaf cypress vine (Quamoclit coccinea), redflower tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia (Petunia hybrida), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), coreopsis (Coreopsis), snake's-eye daisy (Coreopsis tinctoria), marigold (Tagetes erecta), red-yellow chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), maple-leaved mallow (Abutilon), Mexican fire plant (Euphorbia heterophylla), basil (Ocimum basilicum), asparagus (Asparagus cochinchinensis), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), ladybell (Adenophora), and sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica). Magnolia family flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia cylindrica), Baohua magnolia (Magnolia zenii), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Tianmu magnolia (Magnolia amoena), Wudang magnolia (Magnolia sprengeri), houpo magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), concave-leaf houpo (Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba), Japanese wood anemone (Magnolia sieboldii), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Michelia (Michelia), manglietia (Manglietia), redflower manglietia (Manglietia insignis), Ruyuan manglietia (Manglietia ruyuanensis), big-fruited manglietia (Manglietia grandis), yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), banana shrub (Michelia figo), many-flowered Michelia (Michelia floribunda), Lechang Michelia (Michelia chapensis), Yunshan white orchid (Michelia), golden-leaf Michelia (Michelia foveolata), Emei Michelia (Michelia martini), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), hybrid tulip tree (Liriodendron), and North American tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera); other landscaping flower and tree species that can be sown in April include

: Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), money pine (Pseudolarix), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), yew (Taxus), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan luan (Koelreuteria), soapberry (Sapindus), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer), rosewood (Ormosia), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer sweet (Calycanthus), white spiraea (Exochorda), wolfberry (Lycium), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, and palm (Trachycarpus).

Ornamental plants that can be sown as soon as collected in April include: Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus), primrose (Primula), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum). Among these, Japanese aralia can have its blackened, whitish, softened fruits picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedling beds. Alternatively, the seeds can first be sand-stored until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, promptly remove the grass covering and set up a shade shed; for cultivating nipplefruit, peel off the skin of the harvested golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak them in warm water for 24 hours, and sow them in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and reached a height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted; they can be grown in containers to enjoy the fruit or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach (Prunus persica), redflower black locust (Robinia), as well as cactus (Echinopsis) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: white spathe (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns (Pteridophyta), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), agave (Agave), silver king Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), arrowroot (Maranta), aloe (Aloe), pepperomia (Peperomia), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), and Philodendron (Philodendron), etc. Flower species that can be divided in April include: Aspidistra, Rohdea japonica, Hosta, Fritillaria, Acorus, daylily (Hemerocallis), Lycoris, Anemarrhena, Platycodon, milkwort (Polygala), Pulsatilla, and Lychnis, etc. In addition, water lilies (Nymphaea) and lotus (Nelumbo) can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cutting propagation can be carried out in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia (Mahonia), nandina (Nandina domestica), cypress (Cupressaceae), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea (Spiraea), tulip tree (Liriodendron), snowflake spiraea (Spiraea), winter sweet (Edgeworthia), and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa).

II. Repotting, transplanting

    1. For container flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not severely reduced during repotting, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flower and tree species, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), they absolutely must not be repotted after the leaves have expanded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flower and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet expanded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flower and trees such as camphor (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flower and trees, it is best to transplant before leaf expansion, such as white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), crabapple (Malus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and apricot (Prunus armeniaca). Generally, the soil ball diameter for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the trunk diameter of the transplanted plant; only then, without breaking the soil ball, can transplanting proceed without worry.

III. Bonsai shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), creeping juniper (Juniperus chinensis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), water willow (Adina rubella), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Euonymus, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), juniper (Juniperus), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), winter sweet (Edgeworthia), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis). Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), firethorn (Pyracantha), redbark syzygium (Syzygium buxifolium), Chinese fringetree (Chionanthus retusus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), Galo wood (Rhamnus), golden bullet tree (Diospyros), creeping crabapple (MalusHalliana), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles), Elaeagnus, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), money pine (Pseudolarix), and tiger thorn (Damnacanthus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, timely bud removal. When winter buds begin to swell and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male strobili. When needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the bases of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, substituting misting for watering, to ensure that the newly produced needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilization

For container-grown camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), azalea (Rhododendron), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), daphne (Daphne odora), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), cymbidium (Cymbidium), Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), and Phaius, because flowering or fruiting consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply a topdressing mainly of nitrogen, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth. For container flowers about to bloom, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and white orchid (Michelia alba), topdressing should likewise be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For open-ground white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and crabapple (Malus) after flowering, topdressing should also be applied promptly to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping, care

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time and is left spread out for 3 to 5 days, it will not affect its survival or subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant form and prevent diseases

For container flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant form, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing container plants

For container-grown fruit-viewing flower and trees that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), firethorn (Pyracantha), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), and creeping crabapple (Malus halliana), especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to misting and spraying management. Apart from those with intermittent mist systems, they must be misted or sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Growing Handbook Summer

Flower Growing Handbook (May chapter)

Climate characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain; by the time Xiaoman spring rain ends, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of container flowers. In May, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flower and tree species that can be sown as soon as collected in May mainly include: fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica). When sowing and raising seedlings in May, note the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing abrupt wet-dry changes in the bed that cause seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the grass covering several times and promptly set up shade, to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the radicle tip can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the soil cover should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), Impatiens holstii, coleus (Coleus), begonias (Begonia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), azalea (Rhododendron), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), fuchsia (Fuchsia), coral flower (Jatropha), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), Chinese jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), kerria (Kerria japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), butterfly bush (Buddleja), trumpet creeper (Campsis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), Epipremnum, orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Japanese wood anemone (Magnolia sieboldii), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), lantana (Lantana camara), red-back Excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bracted flower (Pachystachys lutea), glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Cordyline, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Schefflera, oleander (Nerium), firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia), and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use 1- to 2-year-old potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings or cuttings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and banana shrub (Michelia figo); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), feather maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and cloak maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy azalea (Rhododendron pulchrum) cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood (Artemisia) as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, and potted rootstocks can also be used for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    4. Layering

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Western azalea, camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'). Species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and trumpet creeper (Campsis).

II. Potting, transplanting

    1. Potting

For container flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), asparagus (Asparagus cochinchinensis), Impatiens holstii, coleus (Coleus), and begonia (Begonia).

    2. Transplanting

From the end of April to the beginning of May, transplant white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) after flowering and just before sprouting and leaf expansion for the highest survival rate. Some flower and trees that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted and established with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and silk tree (Albizia julibrissin).

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, container ornamental plants will gradually increase their water demand. In addition to combining root watering with foliar misting, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water directly treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Container flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), azalea (Rhododendron), red azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), crabapple (Malus), and redflower camellia (Camellia). Foliage types include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), ferns (Pteridophyta), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red (green) gem, giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor, Syngonium, arrowroot (Maranta), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae), Brazil iron, money tree (Pachira aquatica), and Schefflera. Fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), firethorn (Pyracantha), kumquat (Fortunella), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), nandina (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata.

    2. Pruning, bud removal

(1) Pruning. When shortening white orchid (Michelia alba) not long after being moved out, special care must be taken because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water, dries out, and extends downward. For this reason, cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), after flowering pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. When removing buds from potted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) plants, also pay attention to the location, generally 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise the wound may dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote a good plant form.

    3. Shading

After entering May, container plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), arrowroot (Maranta), Philodendron, giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) gem, green emperor, pink lady, fan palm (Livistona), Syngonium, orchids (Orchidaceae), azalea (Rhododendron), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), camellia (Camellia japonica), and sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua). For light-loving flower and trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), jasmine (Jasminum), and white orchid (Michelia alba). Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water willow (Adina rubella), oak (Quercus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and soft pine require full light; while Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus), redbark syzygium (Syzygium buxifolium), creeping juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia (Camellia japonica), azalea (Rhododendron), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum), white orchid (Michelia alba), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), orchids (Orchidaceae), and crabapple (Malus), after flowering remove the spent flowers and withered stems and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen supplemented with phosphorus, once every half month, to restore nutritional growth while laying a foundation for producing new flower buds. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber plant (Ficus elastica), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and ferns (Pteridophyta), apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colorful spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii'), colorful bromeliad, golden-center Brazil iron, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium, white-butterfly Syngonium, and pink lady, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar topdressing, which can make the leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa), pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For citrus seedlings such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat (Fortunella), golden bean, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), and rue (Ruta), the leaf-eating pest that often appears???citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), small-leaf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans'), mountain gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), creeping juniper (Juniperus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), Galo wood (Rhamnus), and ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba). It is worth noting that when shaping, you must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark or core of branches and trunks; otherwise it will affect the plant's normal growth.

Flower Growing Handbook (June chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huaihe basin enters the plum rain season. This year plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall of the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, and for most bonsai, care should be taken to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light that disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flower and tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula), lotus seeds (Nelumbo), cycad (Cycas), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox). For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the seed mother tree turn from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and extract the seeds. First soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this point sow them in furrows. The soil cover thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 rounds and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in flower and tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flower and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or slow to root from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), lilac (Syringa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball (Viburnum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Euphorbia tirucalli, coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) (with aerial roots), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), metasequoia (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum). The other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood (Buxus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), forsythia (Forsythia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), broom (Caragana), jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), dragon-leaf pearl, lantana (Lantana camara), kerria (Kerria japonica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), nandina (Nandina domestica), trumpet creeper (Campsis), red-back Excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Cordyline, Hypericum, golden spirea, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Brazil iron, Ardisia crenata, winter sweet (Edgeworthia), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Weigela, Weigela florida, snowball viburnum, peach-leaf aucuba, Schefflera, mahonia (Mahonia), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), snowflake spiraea (Spiraea), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ground ivy, nasturtium (Tropaeolum), cuphea, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), geranium (Pelargonium), coleus (Coleus), begonias (Begonia), pansy (Viola), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia (Camellia japonica) and osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the tender branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set bamboo hoops over the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid (Michelia alba), banana shrub (Michelia figo), etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot (Prunus armeniaca), peach (Prunus persica), and plum (Prunus salicina) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and elm-leaf spiraea (Prunus triloba). Use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), feather maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and red maple. Cleft grafting: use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), redflower camellia (Camellia), or single-petal seedling camellia (Camellia japonica) as rootstock for cleft grafting of camellia (Camellia japonica) and sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua); use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea (Rhododendron), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Weigela, oleander (Nerium), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), lilac (Syringa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum), and white orchid (Michelia alba).

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (Zantedeschia) (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple-back oyster plant (Tradescantia), bromeliads (Bromeliaceae), Haworthia, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Acorus, and golden-edge lilyturf (Liriope).

II. Seed collection and transplanting/establishment

    1. Seed collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus (Dianthus), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), primrose (Primula), calceolaria (Calceolaria), and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) (sow as soon as collected).

    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until spring of the following year for sowing, without affecting germination rate. Peach (Prunus persica), apricot (Prunus armeniaca), etc. should be sown as soon as collected, or their seeds sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo; when they germinate, choose nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/establishment and potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting: evening primrose (Oenothera), spider flower (Cleome spinosa), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), Guinea balsam, primrose (Primula), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), red tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia (Petunia hybrida), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), and red-green grass.

Entering summer, some large flower and trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia), Hypericum, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood (Buxus), under special circumstances, planting with a soil ball is not out of the question, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    When watering container flowers in June, note the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature; keep irrigation water and potting soil temperature basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of container flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. In weather with several days without rain, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the container flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and mist based on the wetness or dryness of the potting soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia), and begonias (Begonia): when temperatures reach above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level low, reduce watering and just keep the potting soil moist. Deep-dormant species such as: cyclamen (Cyclamen), spider lily (Lycoris), Persian buttercup (Ranunculus), and Dutch peony: under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter summer in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for these, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops comprehensively inspect the container flowers. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the container flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Syngonium, arrowroot (Maranta), sword fern (Nephrolepis), Philodendron, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber plant (Ficus elastica), anthurium (Anthurium), red-back Excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Brazil iron, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), money tree (Pachira aquatica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), daphne (Daphne odora), azalea (Rhododendron), fragrant osmanthus, lantana (Lantana camara), glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and firethorn (Pyracantha), apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruit set.

For those flower species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, Stapelia, and sedum (Sedum): when temperatures reach above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning, bud removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), sabina (Sabina chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), snow willow, tamarisk (Tamarix), and firethorn (Pyracantha), branches that affect the shape should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and well-shaped, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), promptly remove spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten the flowering branches to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flower and trees such as white orchid (Michelia alba), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), azalea (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and crabapple (Malus), in order to help them form a good plant form and produce more and better flowers that year or the next, pinch and remove buds from overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flower and trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta (Hosta), purple hosta, asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), orchids (Orchidaceae), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), ferns (Pteridophyta), Philodendron, Syngonium, pink lady, Philodendron, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Peperomia, giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm (Livistona), daphne (Daphne odora), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), wisteria (Wisteria), firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), cycad (Cycas), sabina (Sabina chinensis), peach blossom (Prunus persica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), water willow (Adina rubella), oak (Quercus), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), soft pine, white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), mahonia (Mahonia), and grape (Vitis). Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus), nandina (Nandina domestica), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), and podocarpus (Podocarpus) can be appropriately shaded.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Sabina (Sabina chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), papaya (Chaenomeles), firethorn (Pyracantha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), and crabapple (Malus) are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles; promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season; spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid (Michelia alba), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) are susceptible to aphid damage; select suitable pesticides early and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection; spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for control.

(5) Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella), and Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis) have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail larvae; spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in early spring or grown in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), thorny elaeagnus (Elaeagnus pungens), Huashan pine (Pinus armandii), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Midget crabapple (Malus micromalus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), serissa (Serissa japonica), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), boxleaf holly (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), snow willow (Fontanesia fortunei), firethorn (Pyracantha) and so on. Shaping in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow bending; one must never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Handbook (July)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. The dog days begin on July 16 and end on August 15, and most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average monthly temperature in most parts of China in July is above 24°C, and in the region south of the Jianghuai it is 28°C; only in northern Northeast China and on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. The main contents of flower care management in July are as follows:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Flowering plants that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), Chinese primrose (Primula obconica), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), campanula (Campanula) and so on. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading and increased ventilation and light.
    In July, ripe fruits of Japanese apricot, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond and so on can also be collected; after washing off the flesh, sow them in furrows immediately, or store the cleaned stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow them; wintersweet seeds can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, which will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Flowering plant species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: skullcap (Scutellaria), begonias (Begonia), coleus (Coleus), clearweed (Pilea), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), geranium (Pelargonium), Michaelmas daisy (Aster novi-belgii), purple loosestrife (Lythrum), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), coral flower (Pachystachys lutea), pepperomia (Peperomia), rhaphidophora (Rhaphidophora), Chinese knotweed (Polygonum chinense), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe), pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and so on.
    Woody flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), nandina (Nandina domestica), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), hypericum (Hypericum), golden St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), weigela (Weigela florida), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), trumpet honeysuckle (Weigela), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia), snowflake spirea (Spiraea thunbergii), daphne (Daphne odora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), edgeworthia (Edgeworthia chrysantha), mountain magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), aglaia (Aglaia odorata), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), mahonia (Mahonia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), firethorn (Pyracantha), cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), serissa (Serissa japonica), michelia (Michelia figo), coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Tianmu viburnum (Viburnum dilatatum), boxwood (Buxus), fig (Ficus carica), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), dragon-claw willow (Salix matsudana var. tortuosa), golden silk willow (Salix alba var. vitellina) and so on. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, water cuttage can also be used to propagate some flowering shrubs. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon and so on. To propagate flowering shrubs by water cuttage, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, punch holes in it and use it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttage clean, and put in a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach and peach can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot, flowering almond, red-leaf plum, Meiren plum and so on; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses and rugosa roses and so on; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid (Michelia alba), michelia and so on; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock, and use cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Hall crabapple or crabapple as rootstock, carry out 'T'-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use seedlings of Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) as rootstock, and use bagged grafting to propagate red maple, laceleaf maple and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine and so on.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, acorus, umbrella plant, aspidistra, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, liriope, reineckea, zephyr lily, sword fern, iris, inch plant and so on. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus and so on.
    Flowering shrub seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, Japanese apricot, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond and so on.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting
    July is the main period for potting flowering plants for display during the National Day period. The flowering plants transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings; after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as mahonia, hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, aucuba, dragon juniper balls and so on. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased; after they have basically survived, shift to normal management, and never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia, Stapelia, string of pearls, Senecio, daphne, crab claw orchid, portulacaria, aloe and so on, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low, so watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, lycoris, ranunculus, bleeding heart and so on, in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should be kept from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, aspidistra, monstera, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, aglaia, chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, maranta, syngonium, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, green queen, pink lady, Brazil iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose and so on, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but leaf spraying should also be given appropriately, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and one must not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots; never pour water forcefully at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to drop green leaves, or cause the rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted Japanese apricot bonsai, because July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate water restriction should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out in time; after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. First, species with an especially long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, aglaia, jasmine and so on; second, species that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose and so on; third, species for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron and so on; fourth, foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, monstera, Philodendron, rubber tree and so on. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    Flowering plants for which fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, cymbidium, marigold, four o'clock flower, dragon's mouth flower and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, michelia, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, aglaia, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple, jasmine tobacco, bougainvillea, rhododendron, chloranthus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose and so on. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazil iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, syngonium, maranta, green giant, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, monstera, cordyline and so on.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped, especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum, Senecio, Lampranthus, Stapelia and so on, fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, red nanmu, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf holly, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, thorny elaeagnus, water willow, chaste tree, forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, panicled hornbeam, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, orange jasmine and so on. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, cat's claw holly, true juniper and so on.
For potted flower species that continue to bloom for a long time, such as aglaia, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus and so on, their spent flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and the branches that have bloomed should be shortened as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming; for rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, Japanese apricot and so on, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that like shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun, such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, monstera, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron, pink lady, pothos, pepperomia, aspidistra, inch plant, Brazil iron, rhaphidophora, bromeliads, maranta, reineckea and so on.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, Japanese black pine, water willow, oak, brocade pine, white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose and so on. For Buddhist pine, podocarpus, michelia, tiger thorn, cloud bamboo, goddess bamboo, five-needle pine and so on, however, appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand, which can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leaf leatheriness, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, golden hibiscus, fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron, monstera, schefflera, aspidistra, aucuba and so on; it is not advisable to choose sword fern, coleus, green giant, syngonium and so on. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping away from air-conditioner outlets, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of Japanese apricot, peach, crabapple, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, flowering almond and so on, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle feeding inside. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate and so on, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood webworm that harms boxleaf holly, boxwood, lance-leaf boxwood and pearl boxwood; when this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect that harms glossy privet, small-leaf privet, water wax and Chinese ash, late July to late August is its emergence period, and the right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing harm again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf boxwood, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar and so on; in severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted and hardened off in spring or grown in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, false arborvitae, Chinese incense cedar, serissa, Japanese black pine, boxleaf holly, water willow and so on.
    In July, plant shaping should be careful and meticulous, with gentle wiring and slow bending, using force gradually; do not operate impatiently or use excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7, Minor Heat; July 23, Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperatures, strong light and low humidity, and is the second hottest dry and hot period of the year after July, with the average monthly temperature in most parts of the country between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, Japanese black pine, brocade pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Chinese fagraea, Lanyu cinnamon, aglaia, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, hibiscus, lantana, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Brazil wood, palm bamboo, money tree, schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia and so on. In addition, there are aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron, monstera, pothos, silver queen aglaonema and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine and so on; they can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored for germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination and then sow. Flowering plants that can be sown include: baby's breath, fan columbine, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold and so on.
2. Cuttage. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-removed rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttage or pot cuttage to propagate the following flowering shrub species: firethorn, mahonia, wintersweet, michelia, bougainvillea, coral tree, aglaia, spotted aucuba, Chinese snowball, snowball, hibiscus, jasmine, chloranthus, rubber tree, galo wood, Buddhist pine, schefflera, cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam and so on as substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spirea, snowflake spirea, gardenia and so on. In addition, flowering plants such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold and sulfur cosmos can also be cut this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering shrubs can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock for cleft grafting osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock for cleft grafting white orchid; use current-year seedlings of peach as rootstock for bud grafting Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry, flowering almond and so on; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting Japanese cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose and so on as rootstock for bud grafting superior rose varieties; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Chinese pearleaf crabapple, Malus hupehensis and so on as rootstock for bud grafting Midget crabapple and Hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock for crown replacement grafting red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock for cleft grafting variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting superior camellia varieties; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting and side grafting superior wintersweet flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can also be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, forsythia, chaenomeles, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, michelia, hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), aglaia (air layering), red maple (air layering) and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, little angel, multi-head green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, aspidistra, umbrella plant, water buttonbush, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Guangdong evergreen, Michaelmas daisy, fine-leaf acorus, sword fern, silver queen aglaonema, maranta, syngonium, Haworthia and so on. In addition, lycoris, calla lily, freesia and so on can also be divided by small bulbs this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when moved with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, strengthening management such as shading, watering and spraying after transplanting can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, golden-heart (edge) boxwood, hypericum, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Buddhist pine, michelia, dragon juniper balls, Shu juniper balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, aucuba, French holly and so on. In the courtyard, flowering plants can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for road hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, glossy privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, photinia and so on, pruning should continue. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as photinia, dragon juniper, Shu juniper, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, Chinese holly, wintergreen and so on, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering shrubs that continue to bloom for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, lantana and so on, spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be shortened appropriately. For ground-planted flowering plants, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, marigold and so on, topping and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and flowering plants planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are tied with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously, ensuring that water does not accumulate at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edge (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, spotted aucuba, shell ginger and so on, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that continue to bloom, such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, lantana and so on, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone and so on, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, wintersweet and so on that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, glossy privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, photinia, camellia and so on, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet and so on. Flowering plants whose seeds can be collected include: peony, sun rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer and so on.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that like acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia and so on, water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily lead to leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette must not be drenched with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to harden. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant state, watering and spraying should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist; by spraying water on the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as monstera, aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, beautiful date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazil wood, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, pandanus, Chinese fagraea (African jasmine), Lanyu cinnamon (pingan wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink lady, schefflera, aucuba, pocket coconut, croton, Japanese fatsia and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea liquid, special flower fertilizer or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, aglaia, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, lantana and so on, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, coral ardisia, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya and so on, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate and so on. For potted flowering plants that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, dry chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, pocket sunflower and so on, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flowering shrub species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, osmanthus, rhododendron and so on, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied through the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, spray the leaves once in time to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, crab claw orchid, sedum, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, cactus balls and so on, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those ornamental plant species that like cool conditions, such as monstera, Philodendron, little angel, rubber tree, areca palm, green giant, syngonium, maranta, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid grass, pink lady, pepperomia, bromeliads, water buttonbush, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, spider plant, reineckea, pocket coconut, net-veined grass, purple velvet, blood leaf orchid, silver queen aglaonema, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, red anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta and so on, shade frames can continue to be set up, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fujian tea, banyan, panicled hornbeam, water willow, boxleaf holly and so on. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, aglaia and so on, shorten the branches after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, peach red-necked longhorn beetle and so on. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight and so on. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, stem borers and so on.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as Japanese black pine, brocade pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf holly, oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, panicled hornbeam, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, aglaia, trident maple, Buddhist pine and so on. In August, some flowering shrubs on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, dendrobium orchid, cattleya orchid, Chinese cymbidium, vanda orchid, oncidium, South American cycad, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, red anthurium, green giant, red (green) gem, maranta, areca palm, king coconut, little angel, monstera, aspidistra, pothos, palm bamboo, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, net-veined grass, golden shrimp plant, Brazil wood, Japanese fatsia and so on.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to carry out moisture-retaining cuttage of some ornamental plants. The cuttage substrate can be a mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cut include: schefflera, spotted aucuba, begonia, gardenia, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, fragrant osmanthus, chloranthus, cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, michelia and so on; during the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-cut, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, chloranthus, schefflera, aucuba, fig, cordyline, plumeria, geranium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia and so on.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that like a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand pool can be built with bricks, with 10 cm thick wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that are relatively fond of moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: monstera, aspidistra, little angel, camellia, sasanqua, syngonium, spring orchid, cymbidium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, chloranthus and so on; usually spray water instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger-head orchid, oncidium, cattleya orchid, fuchsia, dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia and so on, they can be moved to an air-conditioned room, using spraying instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, aglaia, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, boxleaf holly, trident maple, Japanese black pine, brocade pine, wisteria, Fujian tea, water willow, agave, sago palm and so on, water can be given 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea liquid can be sprayed or applied, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be scattered on the pot surface. For flowering shrubs mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as white orchid, aglaia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat and so on, quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, water willow, boxleaf holly and so on, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Japanese apricot, trident maple and so on, soft grass, moss or wet cloth can be covered on the pot surface, which can not only retain moisture and lower temperature, but also protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowering shrubs on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, serissa, panicled hornbeam, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf holly, firethorn and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers and withered stems, dead branches and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowering shrubs, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Handbook (September)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of China gradually drops, with the average monthly temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Chinese fagraea, cinnamon, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazil wood, money tree, schefflera, palm bamboo, plumeria, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, cordyline, beautiful date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce, schefflera, (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, aglaia, white orchid, orange jasmine, pandanus, nandina and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red-flowered camellia, michelia, magnolia, manglietia, buckeye, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm and so on. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows; when sowing, the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm; cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that summer wintersweet can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, the rest of the above seeds must be stored in moist sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of flowering plants. Flowering plant species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, trollius, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttage. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cuttage substrate, woody flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttage in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, michelia, bougainvillea, weigela, spotted aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball, snowball, weigela, jasmine tobacco, jasmine, chloranthus, golden-vein justicia, coral flower, rubber tree, schefflera, cordyline and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttage include: boxwood, purple magnolia, hypericum, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snowflake spirea, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, chaenomeles, peony and so on. Some flowering plants can also be cut, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum and so on.
3. Grafting. The following flowering shrubs can be grafted and propagated: use peony root segments as rootstock to graft superior peony varieties; use seedlings of peach, apricot and so on as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot and so on; use green maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged moisture-retaining cleft grafting of red maple, laceleaf maple and so on; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting superior white magnolia and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock for cleft grafting white orchid; use citrus seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting kumquat and so on; use fringe tree as rootstock for cleft grafting osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting superior wintersweet varieties.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Nerium oleander (oleander), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Camellia japonica (camellia), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Viburnum plicatum (snowball viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock), Rudbeckia laciniata (golden glow), Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (multi-head green dracaena), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen aglaonema), Nephrolepis cordifolia (sword fern), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Liriope platyphylla (silver-striped lilyturf), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Liriope muscari (big-leaf lilyturf), etc. In addition, Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Freesia refracta (freesia), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Lycoris radiata (red spider lily), Scilla peruviana (Peruvian squill) and others can also have their offsets divided and replanted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard flowers planted in the ground
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures in September are still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower trees and shrubs are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the layout of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided that a soil ball is kept intact. Species include: Nerium oleander (oleander), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Camellia japonica (camellia), Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Buxus species (boxwood), Hypericum monogynum (goldenbeard), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum (red-leaf loropetalum), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting and shading must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle), Cosmos sulphureus (sulfur cosmos), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Canna indica (dwarf canna), early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in the growing season in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: Buxus species (boxwood), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Photinia davidsoniae (wuliang shinan), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana' (golden biota), etc. The ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Buxus species (boxwood), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Photinia species (photinia), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), etc. Those that can have their tips pinched out are: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Cosmos sulphureus (sulfur cosmos), Kochia scoparia (burning bush), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and to induce more flower clusters on the side shoots; stop pinching after late September. For woody flowers planted in the ground that bloom continuously for a long time, such as hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Punica granatum var. pleniflorum (flowering pomegranate), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), etc., the faded flowers and withered stalks should be cut off in time, and the flowered branches should be moderately cut back, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for the successively newly planted herbaceous flowers, misting and moisture retention should also be done well.
4. Fertilizing. For color-leaf ornamental plants planted in the ground, such as Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum (red-leaf loropetalum), Alpinia zerumbet var. variegata (variegated shell ginger), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Acalypha wilkesiana (copperleaf), Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea (red-leaf dwarf cherry), Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf peach), etc., in order to keep their leaf color bright and fresh at all times, an appropriate topdressing of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied. For ground-planted flower trees that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers and fruits in autumn, such as Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui' (fragrant osmanthus), Citrus microcarpa (calamondin), Punica granatum var. pleniflorum (flowering pomegranate), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), Canna indica (canna), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is suitable to apply a quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Osmanthus fragrans 'Yingui' (silver osmanthus), Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui' (orange osmanthus) and others that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple) and other flower trees, an 800-fold solution of 90% trichlorfon crystal can be sprayed for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), poison sticks can be inserted into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) and Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum) plants, a 1000-fold solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be used in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower trees of the Magnoliaceae family, such as Magnolia sieboldii (oyama magnolia), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Michelia chapensis (cloud mountain white magnolia), Michelia chapensis (Lechang Michelia), Michelia floribunda (many-flowered Michelia), Michelia maudiae (deep mountain Michelia), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), etc. In addition, there are Aesculus species (buckeyes), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Syringa oblata (lilac), Malus species (crabapples), Cercis chinensis (redbud), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Chimonanthus nitens (shining wintersweet), etc. Seeds of Magnoliaceae, as well as Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Aesculus species (buckeyes), Malus species (crabapples) and others must all be stored in damp sand until early spring of the following year after treatment, and sown in the ground only after the seeds have cracked. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Zinnia elegans (common zinnia), Impatiens balsamina (garden balsam), Mirabilis jalapa (four o'clock flower), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle), Helichrysum bracteatum (strawflower), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), etc.; after collection they should be threshed promptly, stored dry until the following spring, and then sown.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water can be poured or sprayed once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month changed to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. The watering time should be before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that like an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after the beginning of autumn after summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, the amount and frequency of watering (or misting) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, the soil should be loosened once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer also begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so great attention should be paid to fertilization management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Fagraea ceilanica (huali wood), Cinnamomum species (cinnamon), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant, dragon-phoenix wood), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Philodendron 'Red Emerald' (red emerald), Philodendron 'Green Emerald' (green emperor), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen), Maranta species (prayer plants), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig), etc., dilute fertilizer solution at low concentration should still be the main choice, such as 0.3% urea solution, etc. For flower trees with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Michelia alba (white champaca), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui' (four-season osmanthus), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui' (fragrant osmanthus), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), etc.; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Diospyros cathayensis (Chinese persimmon), Callicarpa bodinieri (beautyberry), Punica granatum (fruit pomegranate), etc.; and for color-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Ficus benjamina 'Variegata' (variegated weeping fig), Dracaena fragrans 'Victoriae' (golden-edged corn plant), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Coleus scutellarioides (coleus), etc., a fertilizer type with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as topdressing. For Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus), Sedum species (stonecrops), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush, jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock), Clivia miniata (clivia), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus) and others that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud expansion stage, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Rhododendron species (azaleas), etc., a low-concentration fertilizer type with balanced nutrients can be applied as topdressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and blooming next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still fierce, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Nephrolepis cordifolia (sword fern), Nephrolepis exaltata (Boston fern), Asplenium nidus (bird's-nest fern), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta species (prayer plants), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Philodendron 'Green Emerald' (green emperor), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen), orchid grass, Dieffenbachia species (dumb cane), Arecastrum romanzoffianum (queen palm), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Begonia species (begonias), Epipremnum pinnatum (dragon-tail plant), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Philodendron 'Red Emerald' (red emerald) and 'Green Emerald' (green emerald), Anthurium crystallinum (crystal anthurium), Alocasia amazonica (African mask plant), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Odontonema strictum (red-vein acanthus), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Pteris multifida 'Variegata' (variegated spider fern), Peperomia argyreia (watermelon peperomia), Dieffenbachia picta (spotted dumb cane), Philodendron 'Imperial Green' (green giant), Anthurium andraeanum (flamingo flower), Platycerium bifurcatum (staghorn fern), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Adina pilulifera (Chinese buttonbush), Philodendron 'Imperial Green' (imperial palm), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Geum japonicum (water poplar), Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Xylosma japonicum (Japanese xylosma), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Damnacanthus indicus (Indian damnacanthus), Syzygium buxifolium (boxleaf syzygium), Osmanthus species (osmanthus), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Crassula arborescens (silver jade plant), Rhododendron species (azaleas), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Punica granatum var. pleniflorum (flowering pomegranate), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower), etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout and vigorous in growth, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Syzygium buxifolium (boxleaf syzygium), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Geum japonicum (water poplar), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), etc., continue to prune or pinch out buds. In addition, Pachira aquatica (money tree) seedlings can have their stems braided into a "braid" and then potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted Prunus mume (plum blossom), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), Prunus persica 'Dushu' (longevity peach), Prunus persica 'Bitao' (ornamental peach) and other plants, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, and carbofuran granules can also be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale and others appearing on potted flower trees, a 1500-fold solution of 40% Supracide can be used for control.
Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flower trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song' (Jin Song black pine), Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Geum japonicum (water poplar), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), fruit-viewing pomegranate, Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Agave americana (century plant), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Celtis sinensis (Chinese hackberry), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Hemiptelea davidii (David hemiptelea), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), etc. For some flower species that like a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum (large-flowered cymbidium), Oncidium species (dancing-lady orchids), Dendrobium species (dendrobiums), Cattleya species (cattleyas), Vanda species (vandas), Lycoris species (spider lilies), Alocasia amazonica (African mask plant), Anthurium crystallinum (crystal anthurium), Anthurium andraeanum (flamingo flower), Clivia miniata (clivia), Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Roystonea regia (royal palm), Ficus species (banyan tree), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice-hull ash and half damp sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui' (fragrant osmanthus), Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui' (four-season osmanthus), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Excoecaria cochinchinensis (red-back leaf), Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen aglaonema), etc. Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Ficus carica (fig), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen) and others can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some relatively moisture-loving ornamental plants, such as Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), etc., they can be placed on wooden slats resting on a balcony water basin or water vat, or placed in a self-built simple sand pit, and ordinarily misting can replace watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, misting should also be increased and watering reduced, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine) bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or the immersion-pot method can be used to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, care should be taken that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate should be added to the irrigation water to prevent the plants from showing physiological yellowing.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from a dormant or semi-dormant state, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied; for vigorously growing potted stump bonsai, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flower trees mainly viewed for flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba (white champaca), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as topdressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium multi-element compound fertilizer. The types of fertilizer applied to flower trees on the balcony should not have an off smell, especially not a foul odor, and care should be taken not to splash down to the floor below when applying, and to operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is not large, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Geum japonicum (water poplar), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina procumbens (creeping juniper), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flower trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, faded flowers and withered stalks should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flower trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be killed by spraying a 1500-fold solution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Juniperus formosana (Formosan juniper) bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on Prunus mume (plum blossom), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Prunus persica 'Dushu' (longevity peach) and other flower trees, continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica (camellia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) and other flower trees, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, a 1500-fold solution of 40% Supracide can be sprayed for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which the woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Sciadopitys verticillata (Japanese umbrella pine), Pinus bungeana (lacebark pine), Abies firma (Japanese fir), Picea species (spruces), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Nageia nagi (nagi podocarpus), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), Yucca elephantipes (spineless yucca), Fagraea ceilanica (huali wood), Cinnamomum kotoense (Lan Yu cinnamon), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Ficus benjamina 'Variegata' (variegated weeping fig), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pseudolarix amabilis (golden larch), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Beaucarnea recurvata (ponytail palm), Mahonia bealei (leatherleaf mahonia), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Ficus auriculata (thick-leaf fig), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Roystonea regia (royal palm), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Phoenix roebelenii (pygmy date palm), Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig), Adenium obesum (desert rose), Zamia furfuracea (cardboard cycad), Garcinia subelliptica (fukugi), Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Grevillea robusta (silk oak), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Michelia alba (white champaca), Ficus species (banyan tree), Murraya paniculata (orange jasmine), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Canna generalis (large-flowered canna), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), small chrysanthemum, Begonia coccinea (cane begonia), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Capsicum annuum (ornamental pepper), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Petunia hybrida (petunia), Impatiens hawkeri (New Guinea impatiens), etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species grown in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Camellia chekiangoleosa (red-flowered oil camellia), Michelia species (Michelia), Magnolia species (magnolias), Manglietia species (manglietias), Aesculus species (buckeyes), Calycanthus chinensis (Chinese sweetshrub), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ilex kudingcha (kuding tea), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Nageia nagi (nagi podocarpus), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Elaeocarpus sylvestris (woodland elaeocarpus), Phoenix roebelenii (pygmy date palm), Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Weigela coraeensis (Korean weigela), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Taxodium distichum (bald cypress), etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species (buckeyes), the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis (Chinese sweetshrub), the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Calycanthus chinensis (Chinese sweetshrub) and Weigela coraeensis (Korean weigela), whose seeds can be stored dry until spring sowing, the seeds of the other species can all be cleaned, stored in damp sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring, and then sown. Note that before storage for germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea (hollyhock), Malva sylvestris (common mallow), Papaver rhoeas (corn poppy), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Dianthus species (pinks), Viola tricolor (wild pansy), Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Silene pendula (drooping catchfly), Silene armeria (sweet William catchfly), Eschscholzia californica (California poppy), Bellis perennis (daisy), Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan), Iris species (irises), Verbena hybrida (garden verbena), etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium), Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Petunia hybrida (petunia), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula obconica (German primrose), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), Calceolaria herbeohybrida (pocketbook plant) can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis (red-back leaf), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Cestrum nocturnum (night-blooming jessamine), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Mahonia species (mahonias), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui' (four-season osmanthus), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Weigela coraeensis (Korean weigela), Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), Hypericum monogynum (goldenbeard), Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Nerium oleander (oleander), Ficus carica (fig), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice-hull ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for the cuttings of some southern flower trees, when the Frost's Descent (Shuangjiang) arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Begonia coccinea (cane begonia), Tradescantia zebrina (inch plant), Epipremnum aureum (golden pothos), Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Calliaspidia guttata (shrimp plant), Sanchezia nobilis (golden-vein acanthus), cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii (black pine) seedlings as rootstock, graft Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine, including Pinus parviflora 'Osakazuki') and Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song' (Jin Song black pine) with bagging for moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony); using 1-year-old Acer palmatum (Japanese maple) seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' (laceleaf maple) and others with bagging for moisture retention; using 1-year-old Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia) seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (red-flowered magnolia) and others; using Hylocereus undatus (night-blooming cereus) as rootstock, graft various cactus balls; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Fortunella margarita (kumquat).

    4. Layering. Flower tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica (camellia), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Weigela coraeensis (Korean weigela), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Osmanthus fragrans 'August Gui' (August osmanthus), Viburnum plicatum (snowball viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Hypericum monogynum (goldenbeard), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Mahonia bealei (leatherleaf mahonia), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea), Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora' (double-flowered Japanese rose), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Ranunculus asiaticus (Persian buttercup), Rudbeckia laciniata (golden glow), Iris species (irises), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen aglaonema), Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock), Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (multi-head green dracaena), Nephrolepis cordifolia (sword fern), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Hippeastrum vittatum (amaryllis), Freesia refracta (freesia), Lycoris radiata (red spider lily), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Scilla peruviana (Peruvian squill), etc.

Management of courtyard flowers planted in the ground

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplanting can be carried out after the Frost's Descent (Shuangjiang) arrives and the leaves have fallen, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Cercis chinensis (redbud), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Syringa oblata (lilac), Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Prunus persica 'Bitao' (ornamental peach), Prunus persica 'Dushu' (longevity peach), floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei (leatherleaf mahonia), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana' (golden biota), Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui' (four-season osmanthus), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus bodinieri (Bodinier boxwood), etc., when transplanting, first, pruning back should be carried out before transplanting; second, a soil ball should be kept intact; third, watering and misting management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis (Chinese pink), Bellis perennis (daisy), Alcea rosea (hollyhock), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Viola tricolor (wild pansy), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Verbena hybrida (garden verbena), Phlox drummondii (annual phlox), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis (Chinese narcissus), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea (red-leaf barberry), Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum (red-leaf loropetalum), Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana' (golden biota), Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' (golden-edged euonymus), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Photinia davidsoniae (wuliang shinan), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), etc. The ball-shaped plants needing pruning are: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Buxus species (boxwood), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Photinia species (photinia), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), etc. For ground-planted flower trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stalks, and moderately cut back the flowered branches. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), etc., promptly cut off the open flower clusters to promote the side shoots to continue producing and opening flowers, thereby prolonging the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flower trees newly planted in the same year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting; first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, misting and moisture retention should also be done well.

    4. Fertilizing. For autumn herbaceous flowers planted in the courtyard, a quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is suitable as topdressing; for Osmanthus species that have already bloomed, a ring-shaped trench can be opened to bury basal fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), as well as Camellia japonica (camellia), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) and others that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn) in the fruit-viewing state, and Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Diospyros cathayensis (Chinese persimmon) and others in the south, a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied to effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume (plum blossom), Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple) and others, continue to use poison sticks for control. For dead branches and fallen leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing of the trunks can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Nageia nagi (nagi podocarpus), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Aesculus species (buckeyes), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Manglietia species (manglietias), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia delavayi (Delavay's magnolia), Magnolia amoena (Huangshan magnolia), Michelia champaca (yellow magnolia), Michelia foveolata (golden-leaf Michelia), Michelia maudiae (deep mountain Michelia), Manglietia insignis (red-flowered manglietia), Michelia platypetala (broad-petaled Michelia), Taxodium distichum (bald cypress), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Phoenix roebelenii (pygmy date palm), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Ilex kudingcha (kuding tea), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Camellia oleifera (oil camellia), etc.; these seeds must all be stored in damp sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Pseudolarix amabilis (golden larch), Metasequoia glyptostroboides (dawn redwood), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), Choerospondias axillaris (Hog plum), Cercis chinensis (redbud), Camptotheca acuminata (happy tree), Bischofia polycarpa (Chinese bishopwood), Acer truncatum (Shantung maple), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Zinnia elegans (common zinnia), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Impatiens balsamina (garden balsam), Mirabilis jalapa (four o'clock flower), Kochia scoparia (burning bush), Helichrysum bracteatum (strawflower), Cosmos bipinnatus (cosmos), Cerastium tomentosum (snow-in-summer), Euphorbia heterophylla (painted euphorbia), Mimosa pudica (sensitive plant), Codariocalyx motorius (telegraph plant), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica (canna), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia) and others, when their above-ground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes or tubers, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for replanting in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be done seriously and carefully. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Fagraea ceilanica (huali wood), Cinnamomum kotoense (Lan Yu cinnamon), Philodendron 'Imperial Green' (green giant), Philodendron 'Red Emerald' (red emerald), etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the beginning of autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Clivia miniata (clivia), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Camellia japonica (camellia) and others that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased, so as to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the autumn cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as topdressing; for Camellia japonica (camellia), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Clivia miniata (clivia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus) and others that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer, so as to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus limon (lemon), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Diospyros cathayensis (Chinese persimmon), etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as topdressing in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia species (dumb canes), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Maranta species (prayer plants), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Philodendron 'Red Emerald' (red emerald), Nephrolepis exaltata (Boston fern), Peperomia species (peperomias), etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc., should first be cut off; for leggy branches, heavy cutback should be carried out; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or retied after being untied, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil at the end of the month, to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off the dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flower trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms and other pests should be controlled.

Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony

    In early to mid-October, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only those potted flower trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song' (Jin Song black pine), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Geum japonicum (water poplar), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Ficus auriculata (thick-leaf fig), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Lantana camara (shrub verbena), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), etc. For some cold-sensitive southern flower tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, they can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that like a relatively cool environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum (large-flowered cymbidium), Anthurium crystallinum (crystal anthurium), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Cattleya species (cattleyas), Phalaenopsis species (moth orchids), Oncidium species (dancing-lady orchids), etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Roystonea regia (royal palm), Ficus species (banyan tree), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flower trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice-hull ash and half damp sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Calliaspidia guttata (shrimp plant), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen aglaonema), Epipremnum aureum (golden pothos), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Michelia alba (white champaca), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds well and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time spray water on the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Asplenium nidus (bird's-nest fern), Anthurium andraeanum (flamingo flower), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Maranta species (prayer plants), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), etc., misting should be the main method and watering supplementary, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from a dormant and semi-dormant state, such as Clivia miniata (clivia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), as well as Cymbidium hybridum (large-flowered cymbidium), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied; for Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Citrus limon (lemon), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Diospyros cathayensis (Chinese persimmon), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry) and others mainly viewed for fruits, a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; for Aglaia odorata (chu-lan tree), Michelia alba (white champaca), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), etc., 1 to 2 thin applications of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as topdressing in early October, to help them pass through the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, even more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Ehretia microphylla (Fukien tea), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Fraxinus chinensis (Chinese ash), etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further training and fixing, which can avoid overly deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flower trees, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turning point between autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter (Lidong), the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow (Xiaoxue), the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flower trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying basal fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic sheds, earnestly do a good job of cold protection and freeze protection. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium), Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Begonia tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), Clivia miniata (clivia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), etc.

    Flower tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Sabina virginiana (pencil cedar), Nageia nagi (nagi podocarpus), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Ligustrum japonicum (French privet), Photinia species (photinia), Photinia davidsoniae (wuliang shinan), etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added; the main flower tree species for heat retention and cold protection are: Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Prunus mume (plum blossom, referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose, referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), etc.

    Flower tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Serissa japonica (snowbush), etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic sheds in November include: Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus bodinieri (Bodinier boxwood), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Euonymus japonicus 'Variegatus' (silver-edged euonymus), Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Ligustrum vicaryi (golden-leaf privet), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Hypericum monogynum (goldenbeard), Hypericum beanii (golden plum), Mahonia species (mahonias), Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata' (golden-edged snowbush), etc. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system by the following spring and can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, Begonia coccinea (cane begonia), Begonia manicata (eyelash begonia), Begonia nelumbiifolia (lotus-leaf begonia), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), Crassula arborescens (silver jade plant), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Excoecaria cochinchinensis (red-back leaf), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Calliaspidia guttata (shrimp plant) and others can also be propagated by cuttings, and can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Vitis vinifera (grape) and others can also be cut and stored until the following spring for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using Acer palmatum (green maple) seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple) and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' (laceleaf maple) indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft Prunus mume (plum blossom) (the graft union buried in the soil to overwinter); using thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis ('Elizabeth' variety) as rootstock-scion, and branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so as to promote the simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut end, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. The main flower tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November are: Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans' (small-leaf gardenia), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Camellia japonica (camellia), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sabina squamata (flaky juniper), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea), Viburnum plicatum (snowball viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea thunbergii (bridalwreath spiraea), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Jasminum subtriplinerve (three-stem jasmine), Hypericum monogynum (goldenbeard), Hypericum beanii (golden plum), Mahonia species (mahonias), Buddleja lindleyana (Lindley's butterfly bush), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf' (fernleaf hedge bamboo), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), Canna indica (canna), Canna generalis (large-flowered canna) can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided and planted out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata (hyacinth orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris species (irises), ornamental Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Liriope muscari (big-leaf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Rohdea japonica (Japanese sacred lily), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), etc.

    1. Seed harvesting. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in November include: Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Zinnia elegans (common zinnia), Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Hibiscus coccineus (scarlet rose mallow), etc.

    Flower tree species whose seeds can be harvested in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Pinus taiwanensis (Huangshan pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Metasequoia glyptostroboides (dawn redwood), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Chamaecyparis pisifera (Japanese false cypress), Chamaecyparis obtusa (Japanese cypress), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Liquidambar formosana (Formosan sweetgum), Camptotheca acuminata (happy tree), Eucommia ulmoides (Chinese gutta-percha tree), Cornus alba (red-twig dogwood), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Spiraea cantoniensis (bridalwreath spiraea). Flower tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in damp sand include: Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Sabina virginiana (pencil cedar), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Lycium chinense (Chinese wolfberry), Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Photinia species (photinia), Photinia davidsoniae (wuliang shinan), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose, used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene pendula (drooping catchfly), Dianthus species (pinks), Alcea rosea (hollyhock), Malva sylvestris (common mallow), Viola tricolor var. hortensis (large-flowered pansy), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Bellis perennis (daisy), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Prunus cerasifera (red-leaf plum), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Aesculus species (buckeyes), Tilia species (lindens), Cercis gigantea (giant redbud), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and main trunk must be appropriately cut back or shortened, and most of the leaves must be removed, the main trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball kept intact (generally the diameter of the soil ball is about 6 to 7 times the diameter of the main trunk), so as to ensure their survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the main trunk can be shortened and the large branches can be pruned, with a soil ball kept intact and the main trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for them to survive. In addition, the cuts on the main trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film, to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, plum bonsai, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), and Malus halliana (hall crabapple) can be transplanted into pots and placed in a greenhouse to force blooming, so as to meet the need for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinths, tulips, Narcissus poeticus (pheasant's eye narcissus), and the like should be moved into a greenhouse to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in a greenhouse, plastic tunnel, or indoor room in November, the amount of watering is gauged by keeping the potting soil moist; it must not be too wet, because if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants easily suffer root rot and die. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, watering should be appropriately increased, along with necessary misting of the leaves.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria, as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand, lemon, Pyracantha (firethorn), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata (coralberry), not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently, to favor the swelling and growth of flower buds and to make the fruits appear even more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and indoor rooms, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be misted frequently so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and indoor rooms with higher temperatures, watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta (prayer plant), Calathea, Dieffenbachia (dumb cane), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time to water potted flowers is around 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), Camellia japonica, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), cineraria, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia miniata (kafir lily), tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Schlumbergera (Christmas cactus), and Vriesea (flaming sword), low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, topdressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy and overwinter. For most flowering trees planted in the ground, such as Malus (crabapple) species, Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Manglietia fordiana, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo (banana shrub), Michelia foveolata (golden-leaved michelia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Spiraea (spirea), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), grape, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), tree peony, Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), herbaceous peony, and Hypericum (St. John's wort), dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma japonicum, Fraxinus hupehensis (Hubei ash), Pyracantha (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), wintersweet, and crabapple, laying a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) that have not yet been pruned; for each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), carry out heavy reduction pruning of the current year's branches, apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, to favor the emergence of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Platanus orientalis (Oriental plane), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Pyracantha (firethorn), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), and crabapple, cut off all distorted branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately reduce and prune the water sprouts protruding beyond the crown. In addition, in November, the coarse trunks of large palm trees can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths, and the trunks cleaned up well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering tree species that are not very afraid of cold, such as Camellia japonica, sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Aglaonema, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata (coralberry), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (split-leaf philodendron), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), and Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), they can be placed in a plastic tunnel, as long as the indoor temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Maranta (prayer plant), Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (deeply lobed philodendron), Aglaonema, Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Pachystachys (shrimp plant), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Dieffenbachia (dumb cane), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Plumeria (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya, and Paphiopedilum (slipper orchid), they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic tunnel.

For those bonsai or potted flowering trees that are relatively cold-tolerant, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis, Acer buergerianum (trident maple), and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), they can be buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a film cover or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or indoor rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, no toxic gases such as coal gas should enter the room, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, be careful never to let the plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead trunk and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stumps.

For whiteflies, scale insects, and the like appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycad, orchid, Camellia japonica, Clivia miniata, and Aspidistra elatior), first, wipe them off with a damp cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, and Rosa chinensis), spray tobacco water for control.

For Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea) placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November are: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Sabina procumbens (procumbent juniper), Euonymus pendulus, Serissa japonica (snowbush), plum blossom, Corylopsis (winter hazel), Xylosma japonicum, Ilex cornuta (horned holly), holly, Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), and Malus halliana (hall crabapple).

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunks and branches, the old palm rope can be untied in November, and the trunks and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Bougainvillea (paperflower), Adina rubella, Pyracantha (firethorn), and Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch breaking, plant them well in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches next year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, paired with fist-sized stones and dotted with moss, and they can be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), ornamental peach, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Sabina chinensis, and Chaenomeles speciosa, suitable pots can be selected in November for potting, water management strengthened, and they can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: this month, most regions of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, and heavy frost occurs frequently. This month, the care of flowers and trees should emphasize three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees moved into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and indoor rooms; second, do a good job in pruning, cleaning, and land turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job in preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixed potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (kafir lily), tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy); flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors as soon as collected or stratified in sand for germination include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (such as 'Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), holly species, Pyracantha (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Photinia (photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be cut outdoors in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (mainly easily rooting cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), wintersweet (cutting with heel), Spiraea (spirea), and boxwood species. Among them, plum blossom and purple-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; Rosa chinensis cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violet can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pelargonium (geranium), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (Dutchman's pipe cactus), Epiphyllum, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Bryophyllum pinnatum (air plant), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Begonia maculata (spotted begonia), Rieger begonia, Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Lantana camara (common lantana), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant). Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus' (gold-heart or gold-edge Japanese euonymus), Mahonia (Oregon grape), Hypericum (St. John's wort), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Pyracantha (firethorn), Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), and Acer triflorum. In addition, branches of Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Syringa (lilac), and grape can be cut and stratified in sand, to be cut in spring next year.

    3. Grafting. Superior plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown in the same year; after digging up the rootstock, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in the seedbed at a certain row spacing, bury the soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, being careful that water does not seep into the union, cover with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering plastic film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior cultivars of Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose); or use robust branch segments (10 to 12 cm long) of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivar scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, being careful that water does not seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering plastic film; only after it has completely survived can a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), plum blossom, camellia, Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), snowball (Viburnum), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spirea), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spirea), and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Oxalis corymbosa (red wood sorrel), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris, Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Ophiopogon bodinieri, Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Bryophyllum pinnatum (air plant), and Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen). When cutting off the basal offsets from large Cryptanthus (earth star) plants for division, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colored bands of the cut-off offsets easily disappear, which deserves special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum (St. John's wort), Mahonia (Oregon grape), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spirea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Agave sisalana (sisal), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), and Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo).

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage) types, Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth) types, Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Cyclamen, and Clivia miniata (kafir lily). Clivia miniata seeds should be sown as soon as collected.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Pyracantha (firethorn), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), holly species, Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), and Photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flowerbeds in December include: Dianthus (pink) species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus (pink), and pansy, and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), pomegranate, Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), cherry blossom, Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia (linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), ornamental peach, Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), rhododendron, and holly. When transplanting, first carry out heavy reduction pruning of the main leader and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, bring a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently mist the leaves and trunk as well, only then can normal survival be ensured.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, Camellia japonica, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), and Malus halliana (hall crabapple). Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, Narcissus poeticus (pheasant's eye narcissus), and the like should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic tunnel where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), Pyracantha (firethorn), Camellia japonica, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo), and cycad.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (split-leaf philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea (paperflower), Cyclamen, Primula (primrose), Lantana camara (common lantana), kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Pelargonium (geranium), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), and Bambusa ventricosa (Buddha belly bamboo), they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic tunnel. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Peperomia (radiator plant), Maranta (prayer plant), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (nerve plant), bromeliads, Calathea, Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Aglaonema, Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya, Paphiopedilum (slipper orchid), Zamia (coontie), red (green) gem, Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), and Cymbidium hookerianum, in a double-layer tunnel with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warm.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Xylosma japonicum, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), boxwood species, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Thuja orientalis (Oriental arborvitae), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (horned holly), and Fraxinus hupehensis (Hubei ash), when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer frost damage; when particularly cold weather occurs, add a plastic film cover or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or indoor rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit-ornamental plants must, besides maintaining a corresponding indoor temperature, also be given attention for ventilation and air exchange; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation and air exchange around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent the occurrence of leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be careful not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and indoor rooms, the criterion is to keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, root rot is extremely likely to occur. When the temperature rises, watering can be increased and appropriate misting of the leaves given.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, sasanqua, Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, Primula (primrose), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), hyacinth, and Narcissus (European narcissus), and fruit-ornamental types such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, calamondin, kumquat, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), and Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be misted, to favor the swelling of flower buds and to increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be misted, always keeping the leaf surfaces clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta (prayer plant), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling watering, only then can their safe overwintering be ensured.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted outdoor flowering trees, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately mist the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple species, Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), herbaceous peony, tree peony, Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hypericum (St. John's wort), grape, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Spiraea (spirea), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Philadelphus (mock orange), Deutzia (deutzia), pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Pyracantha (firethorn), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Syringa (lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Hypericum (St. John's wort), Salix babylonica (weeping willow), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Prunus japonica (Japanese bush cherry), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Photinia (photinia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), and Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), bromeliads, Daphne odora (winter daphne), cineraria, Primula (primrose), Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), hyacinth, Clivia miniata (kafir lily), tulip, and Freesia (freesia), a 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing, to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not completely pruned in November; hedge and green wall types include Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Ligustrum quihoui, Euonymus japonicus (Japanese euonymus), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens' (four-season osmanthus), and Photinia davidsoniae; ball types include Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Photinia (photinia), boxwood species, Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Pyracantha (firethorn), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), and Juniperus rigida (needle juniper). While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees that were not completely pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Photinia (photinia), Platanus orientalis (Oriental plane), plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma japonicum, Fraxinus hupehensis (Hubei ash), Pyracantha (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, crabapple, and Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), continue pruning in December, laying a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica, and Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on Primula (primrose), the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species prone to scale insects among flowers and trees in greenhouses and plastic tunnels, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycad, Camellia japonica, and Aspidistra elatior, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on whose potted plants aphids often appear when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), and Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive), Platanus orientalis (Oriental plane), Camellia japonica, Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Pyracantha (firethorn), Nerium oleander (oleander), crabapple, Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Photinia (photinia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus (Indian wax scale), Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Ceroplastes rubens (red wax scale), armored scales, Unaspis yanonensis (arrowhead scale), mealybugs, and Eriococcus (felt scales); at this time, spraying and killing with relatively high-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and mixed potting soil preparation, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and tree branches in alternate layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings, and pigeon droppings with garden soil, pile and compost them, and seal for fermentation; this can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing mixed potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing mixed potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty lot or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for next spring's repotting and potting of herbaceous flowers. Generally, 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, and after being thoroughly mixed, cover with plastic film, or pile it indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing it into clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cutting, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and the like can be applied before replowing; do not make beds for the time being; after overwintering and freezing into clods, in early spring next year, dig furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Platycladus orientalis (Oriental arborvitae), Sabina procumbens (procumbent juniper), Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (horned holly), holly, Euonymus pendulus, Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Corylopsis (winter hazel), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (hall crabapple), Chaenomeles cathayensis (Chinese flowering quince), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Fraxinus hupehensis (Hubei ash), and Xylosma japonicum.

For bonsai plants that have been shaped and fixed with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be untied, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying, suspending, and pulling.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), crabapple, Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Sabina chinensis, and Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle) that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used next year for display in public places or indoor rooms.

In winter, for some landscape bonsai in shallow pots and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from being frozen to death or dying of dryness. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: this month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the period of the "third nine-day period", and most regions of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year occurs. This month, in flower care, the most important thing is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and the like in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and indoor rooms; next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the land, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (kafir lily), tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy). Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) ('Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), holly, Pyracantha (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Photinia (photinia), Photinia davidsoniae, Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), and Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree).

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for outdoor cutting propagation in January or with plastic film cover include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), Spiraea (spirea), boxwood species, pomegranate, Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), Mahonia (Oregon grape), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Acer triflorum, Hypericum (St. John's wort), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spirea), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), and Jasminum officinale (common jasmine). Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Pelargonium (geranium), Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), African violet (leaf cuttings), Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea (paperflower), Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation), Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), Graptopetalum, Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Crassula ovata (jade plant), Echeveria, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (Dutchman's pipe cactus), Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Bryophyllum pinnatum (air plant), Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf umbrella tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Excoecaria cochinchinensis (Chinese croton), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant). In addition, branches of Syringa (lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), grape, Weigela coraeensis, Deutzia (deutzia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Platanus (plane tree), and Ficus carica (fig) can be cut and stratified in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them in the seedbed, and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In the Guangdong region, people often bud-graft calamondin, kumquat, and the like between Minor Cold and Major Cold; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft superior cultivars of Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), use the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spirea), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spirea), pomegranate, and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple).

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Liriope muscari 'Variegata' (variegated lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Zephyranthes grandiflora (pink rain lily), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Tradescantia spathacea (Moses-in-the-cradle), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris, Chlorophytum (spider plant) species, Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Bryophyllum pinnatum (air plant), bromeliads, Tulbaghia (society garlic), Alpinia zerumbet (shell ginger), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), and Aloe (aloe). Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum (St. John's wort), Mahonia (Oregon grape), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spirea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spirea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Damnacanthus indicus, Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Acer triflorum, boxwood, and Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia).

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern) and Clivia miniata (kafir lily) seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown as soon as collected; seeds of mature winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum) can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Pyracantha (firethorn), holly species, and Ardisia crenata (coralberry) can be picked, treated, and stratified in sand for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, sand-stored seeds should be checked frequently, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, and holly species, to see whether the seeds have molded; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplementary misting should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and cover with plastic film or straw, pine needles, and the like to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus (pink) species, ornamental kale, Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy); in relatively cold regions, after sowing seedlings such as Dianthus (pink), ornamental kale, Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), pansy, and Primula (primrose) are potted, they can first be placed in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, they can be used for display in street flowerbeds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), pomegranate, Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), crabapple species, Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Liquidambar formosana (Chinese sweetgum), Acer species, wintersweet, plum blossom, Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), cherry blossom, Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia (linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spirea), Acer triflorum, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). For evergreen tree species, especially Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree) and Ligustrum quihoui, apart from special circumstances, this month transplanting should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy reduction pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in the regions south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ilex pernyi (Perny's holly), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), holly, and Xylosma japonicum, heavy reduction pruning must be carried out and most of the leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added to protect against freezing.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to the overwintering of potted flowers and bonsai. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, a special environment for safe overwintering should be created for them, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, in an indoor room, or buried in open-field soil. In a simple plastic tunnel where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure a low temperature of about 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Paphiopedilum (slipper orchid), Ardisia crenata (coralberry), Daphne odora (winter daphne), cycad, Acorus calamus (sweet flag), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), and Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo). In a double-layer plastic tunnel where the temperature is not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure a low temperature of about 5°C can be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chulan), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Aglaonema, Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (split-leaf philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Camellia japonica, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (Dutchman's pipe cactus), Bambusa ventricosa (Buddha belly bamboo), Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea (paperflower), and Lantana camara (common lantana). In a double-layer plastic tunnel or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure a low temperature of about 10°C can be placed, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta (prayer plant), bromeliads, Peperomia (radiator plant), Coleus (coleus), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (nerve plant), red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Dieffenbachia (dumb cane), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaonema, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya, Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Zamia (coontie), Adenium obesum (desert rose), Calathea, Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), and Cyrtanthus; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and only after the temperature turns warm can the straw curtains stop being added. On very cold days, inspections of heating facilities and personnel on duty should be strengthened, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the electricity be cut, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Xylosma japonicum, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), boxwood species, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis (Oriental arborvitae), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (horned holly), holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis (Hubei ash), they can be buried in the soil together with their pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and when particularly cold weather occurs, add a plastic film cover or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that, whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or indoor rooms, potted flowers or bonsai, including fruit-ornamental and foliage plants, must, besides maintaining a corresponding air temperature, also be well ventilated; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation and air exchange around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent the occurrence of flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try as much as possible to avoid cold wind directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air movement from the south; if broken glass, torn film, and the like are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to freeze the potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent smoke damage and the like from causing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps); they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, Camellia japonica, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (hall crabapple), and Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) can also be placed in a plastic tunnel at about 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, Narcissus poeticus (pheasant's eye narcissus), and Freesia (freesia) already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    In January, in the watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and misting, that is, to keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even make the plants drop leaves, rot roots, or die. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and indoor rooms, it is appropriate to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is low, correspondingly reduce watering; when the temperature rises, increase watering and give leaf misting. For most foliage plants, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but attention must also be paid to misting the leaves, always keeping the leaves of the plants clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta (prayer plant), and Codiaeum variegatum (croton), when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, sasanqua, Rhododendron obtusum (Belgian azalea), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, Primula (primrose), hyacinth, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), and Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and fruit-ornamental types such as Pyracantha (firethorn), bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata (coralberry), kumquat, kumquat, and winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted, to favor the swelling of flower buds and to increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers do not need much water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and timely supplementary watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, around noon the leaves should also be appropriately misted, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most landscaping trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as crabapples, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, manglietia, michelia, maples, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, schima, machilus, tupelo, camptotheca, tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, flowering almond, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, elaeocarpus, golden weeping willow, weeping elm, cryptomeria, Taiwania, deodar cedar, Japanese pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, white silk tree, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, black bamboo, pomegranate, loquat, etc., if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer edge of the tree root system, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in a greenhouse at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, winter daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-narcissus, spectabilis, hyacinth, tulip, bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, Christmas cactus, etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in a plastic shed, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

Six. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and topiary balls, etc. that have not yet been pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs that have not yet been pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, grape, etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of their root systems to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese ash, water willow, elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, juniper, etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunks and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to lay a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

Seven. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapples, plums, elms, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, etc. that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For ceroplastes, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia, etc., spray and kill with high-concentration methidathion, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in the greenhouse and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, kumquat, etc. in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in the greenhouse, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient: iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

Eight. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat for soaking and fermentation, so that they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dry grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. with garden soil in layers, set on fire and burn, to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

Nine. Plowing and Freezing Soil Clods

For nursery land that has not yet been plowed in December, seize the time in early January to plow it. While plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc. into it. After overwintering and freezing of soil clods, in early spring dig furrows and make beds for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, sad cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf holly, velvet cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, winter hazel, euonymus, banyan, wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic shed, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial to the healing of parts that may be damaged during shaping.

For plants shaped with palm rope or metal wire 1 to 2 years ago, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding parts, the original binding material should be removed and rewiring and training should be carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; tree stump bonsai must be prevented from having the pot soil freeze, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and can also cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate, and it is also necessary to prevent plants planted on small stones from freezing to death after being frozen, so they should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can they be ensured to overwinter safely.