How much is the market price of zinnia seeds per jin? Detailed planting method
Zinnia is also a kind of plant, and many people know about it. So what is the planting method for zinnia seeds? How much is the market price of zinnia seeds per jin: Planting method for zinnia seeds: seed selection. The lifespan of zinnia seeds is 3 years, and the germination rate is about 60%.
Zinnia is also a kind of plant, and many people know about it. So what is the planting method for zinnia seeds? How much is the market price of zinnia seeds per jin:
Planting method for zinnia seeds:
1. Seed selection
The lifespan of zinnia seeds is 3 years, and the germination rate is about 60%. Try to choose plump seeds from the previous year to improve the seed germination rate. To save zinnia seeds, do it when the outer ring of petals begins to dry up and the middle ring of petals begins to lose color. Cut off the flower heads, dry them in the sun, remove impurities, and store them.
2. Disinfection treatment
Before sowing zinnia, the soil and seeds must undergo strict disinfection treatment to prevent pests and diseases during the growth period. For seed disinfection, soak the seeds in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes. The substrate is mixed with 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 2 parts peat, and 2 parts perlite. It can be disinfected with 0.05% potassium permanganate or 1000 times formalin. The soil can be treated by high-temperature fumigation to kill pathogenic bacteria, pests, and weed seeds in it.
3. Sowing method
Zinnia seeds can be sown in holes or broadcast. Because it is a light-avoiding flower seed, after sowing it must be covered with a layer of vermiculite. At a temperature of 21-23°C, it can germinate in 3-5 days. The germination period does not require light. After germination, the seedbed should maintain a water content of 50-60%, and it must not be too wet, so as to avoid root rot or damping-off disease.
4. Seedling management
After zinnia seedlings grow 1 true leaf, divide and transplant the seedlings once. The zinnia root system is not well developed and has few lateral roots. Generally, when there are 2 true leaves, transplant and plant them into pots. When transplanting, they should be taken with soil. The transplanting substrate should be loose, fertile, and well-drained. It can be made by mixing 3 parts pond mud, 1 part leaf mold, and 1 part decomposed barnyard manure. The planting depth should be 0.5 cm below the cotyledons. After planting, press the soil lightly and water thoroughly.
How much is the market price of zinnia seeds per jin:
The market price of zinnia seeds is still very stable, at about 150 yuan per jin, which is still within a range that everyone can accept.
The planting method for zinnia seeds is introduced here. Now you know the price of these seeds!
How to sow asparagus seeds? Treatment methods for asparagus seeds before sowing
For asparagus planting, whether it is direct sowing cultivation or seedling transplanting cultivation, strict seed treatment must be carried out before sowing. Do you know what the treatment methods for asparagus seeds before planting are? Below, the editor will introduce the treatment methods for asparagus seeds before planting!
Treatment methods for asparagus seeds before planting
First, place the dry seeds in hot water at 55-58°C to soak them and kill pathogens inside and outside the seeds. When soaking the seeds, after the seeds are put into the hot water, the water temperature should be maintained at 54-56°C for 20 minutes, and the seeds should be stirred regularly. When the temperature drops to 54°C, promptly add hot water above 70°C to raise it to 56°C. After soaking for 20 minutes, immediately pour out the hot water, add cold water at about 25°C to cool it down, then rub and wash the seeds with your hands for 10-15 seconds, and then replace with clean water to soak the seeds.
When soaking asparagus seeds, the water level should be more than 5 cm above the seeds, and replace with clean water once in the morning and once in the evening every day. Each time the water is changed, rub and wash the seeds with your hands to rub off the sticky substance on the seed surface. The rubbing force should be lighter each time.
After soaking for 72 hours at room temperature of 20-25°C, drain off the water, place them in a clean basin or tray, cover with a wet cloth, and place at 25-28°C for 24 hours to promote germination, then they can be sown. At this time, a small number of seeds can be seen with the seed coat split and the radicle exposed. Some reports say to promote germination for 48 hours or longer, and sow after the seeds grow radicles. Doing so is likely to damage the radicles during actual operation.
Reasons why asparagus seeds need treatment
As long as the soaking time is sufficient and the water temperature during soaking is maintained at 20-25°C, after 3 days of soaking, seedlings can begin to emerge about 10 days after sowing. Some people worry that soaking seeds in hot water at 55°C will affect seed germination. Comparative test results show that seeds treated with hot water at 55°C for 20 minutes can increase the germination rate and germination vigor of the seeds, and can effectively kill pathogens carried by the seeds. It is an effective measure to prevent stem blight and other diseases transmitted through seeds.
Points to note when treating asparagus seeds
1. The water temperature for the soaking treatment must be accurately controlled. The rough method of mixing three parts boiling water with one part cold water cannot replace the method of measuring with a thermometer. The water temperature before the seeds are put in is required to reach 57-58°C, and after the seeds are put in, it can drop to about 55°C.
2. The duration of soaking at 54-56°C must not be less than 20 minutes.
3. After the soaking treatment is finished, immediately pour out the hot water and add cold water to cool it down. If there is no thermometer to measure the water temperature or relevant conditions are lacking and hot-water seed soaking cannot be carried out, first soak in cold water for 48 hours, then switch to a 1:500 dilution of 50% carbendazim aqueous solution and soak for 24 hours. During soaking, the medicinal liquid must be 2-3 cm above the seeds. After soaking, drain off the medicinal liquid and sow. In order to prevent the seeds from sticking to fingers or sticking to each other due to moisture during hole sowing, a small amount of dry fine soil or coal ash can be mixed with the seeds to absorb surface moisture and keep the seeds separated.
Seedling technology for asparagus seeds
1. Selecting excellent varieties is the foundation for growing asparagus well. Excellent asparagus seeds such as Grande, Champion, Shuofeng, Asparagus Prince, and Emperor can be selected.
2. Seed treatment: soaking and germination promotion must be carried out before sowing. Before soaking, first rinse the seeds with clean water to float away shriveled seeds, then soak them in warm water for 2-3 days, changing the water twice a day. After the seeds have fully absorbed water, pour off the water, cover with a washed towel to promote germination, and rinse with clean water twice a day to prevent the seeds from heating up and rotting. Sow after more than 10% of the seeds have split and exposed white;
3. Sowing: before sowing, irrigate the bed with enough soil moisture, draw lines at a spacing of 10 cm between plants and rows, sow single seeds in holes within the squares, cover with 2 cm of sieved fine soil on top, spread a layer of wheat straw or green grass in summer to preserve moisture and provide shade, and transplant when the aboveground stems grow to 30 cm or more than three have grown. According to conditions, using nutritional pot seedling cultivation is best.
① Before land preparation, spray 45% Shenaning + 50% Menglong, with a dosage of 3-10 kg per mu. Spray the ground surface and then water, which can disinfect the soil and prevent root rot and damping-off disease.
② After sowing, a small amount of bait can be spread on the ground surface, such as phoxim granules mixed with wheat bran, rice husk, etc., or spread 2 kg of Bairi Zhuisha, to prevent damage by underground pests such as cutworms and mole crickets.
4. Precautions: March to September each year is the time for asparagus seedling cultivation. March to May is spring seedling cultivation, June to July is summer seedling cultivation, and August to September is autumn seedling cultivation. For overwintering seedling cultivation, water once before freezing, and set up a small arch shed at the end of October to extend the growth time of the seedlings; a layer of soil mixed with manure or wheat straw can also be spread on open-field seedlings to help the seedlings overwinter safely.
Lagerstroemia indica, crape myrtle picture guide: how to grow crape myrtle / how to propagate crape myrtle
Crape myrtle profileLagerstroemia indica
Cultivation methods and precautions of crape myrtle. Introduction to crape myrtle
Crape myrtle, also known as Ru Jing'er tree, Hundred-day red, Mantanghong, and itchy tree. It is a dicotyledonous plant in the genus Lagerstroemia of the family Lythraceae. It is produced in southern Asia and northern Australia. In China it is distributed in East China, Central China, South China, and Southwest China, and is commonly cultivated in various places. The crape myrtle tree has a graceful posture, smooth and clean trunk, and brilliant flower colors; when it blooms, it is during the summer and autumn season when few flowers bloom, and the flowering period is extremely long, from June to September, so it is called "Hundred-day red", and there is also praise saying "in midsummer when green shades the eyes, this flower reddens the whole hall". It is an excellent material for bonsai for viewing flowers, trunks, and roots. Main production areas of crape myrtle include Jiangsu Changmei Flowers, Zhejiang, Anhui, Shandong, and other places.
Crape myrtle, also called Hundred-day red, is drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging, likes warmth and moisture, likes light, and likes fertilizer. It has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide, hydrogen fluoride, and chlorine gas, and can absorb harmful gases. Neutral soil or slightly acidic soil is better. According to measurements, each kilogram of leaves can absorb 10 grams of sulfur and still grow well. Crape myrtle can also absorb and retain dust. In a cement plant at 200-250 m from the pollution source, each sq m of leaves can absorb and retain 4042 grams of dust. Therefore, it is the most ideal tree species for urban and industrial-mining greening, and can also be used for bonsai. Crape myrtle also has medicinal effects. Li Shizhen discussed in "Compendium of Materia Medica" that its bark, wood, and flowers have the effects of promoting blood circulation and menstruation, relieving pain, reducing swelling, and detoxifying. The seeds can be made into pesticides and have the effect of repelling and killing pests. The leaves treat white dysentery, the flowers treat postpartum incessant uterine bleeding and infantile scalp sores and fetal toxins, and the roots treat carbuncles, swellings, and sores. It can be said to be a treasure all over.
Morphological characteristics of crape myrtle
It is a deciduous shrub or small tree. Artificially cultivated at the Jiangsu crape myrtle base, in large quantities. Crape myrtle is a small tree, sometimes shrub-like, 3-7 m tall; the bark easily falls off, and the trunk is smooth. Young branches are slightly four-angled and slightly winged. Leaves alternate or opposite, nearly sessile; leaves are elliptical, obovate, or oblong, 3-7 cm long and 2.5-4 cm wide, smooth and hairless or with hairs along the main vein. Panicles are terminal, 4-20 cm long; flower diameter 2.5-3 cm; calyx with 6 shallow lobes, lobes ovate, smooth outside; petals 6, purple, red, pink, or white, with irregular notches at the edges and long claws at the base; stamens 36-42, the outer 6 with longer filaments; ovary 6-loculed. Capsule elliptical-globose, 9-13 mm long and 8-11 mm wide, dehiscing by 6 valves. Seeds winged. Flowering period June-September, fruiting period October-November. The older the trunk, the smoother it becomes. If touched by hand, the whole plant will tremble slightly.
Deciduous shrub or small tree, up to 7 m tall; bark smooth, gray or grayish brown; branches and trunk mostly twisted, branchlets slender, 4-angled, slightly winged. Leaves alternate or sometimes opposite, papery, elliptical, broadly oblong, or obovate, 2.5-7 cm long and 1.5-4 cm wide, apex shortly pointed or obtuse, sometimes slightly concave, base broadly cuneate or nearly rounded, hairless or with fine pubescence along the midvein beneath, lateral veins 3-7 pairs, veinlets inconspicuous; sessile or petiole very short. Flowers pale red or purple, white, 3-4 cm in diameter, often forming terminal panicles 7-20 cm long; pedicels 3-15 mm long, both the axis and pedicels pubescent; calyx 7-10 mm long, smooth and without ridges outside, but when fresh the calyx tube has slightly raised short ridges, hairless on both sides, lobes 6, triangular, upright, without appendages; petals 6, wrinkled, 12-20 mm long, with long claws; stamens 36-42, the outer 6 inserted on the calyx, much longer than the others; ovary 3-6-loculed, hairless. Capsule elliptical-globose or broadly elliptical, 1-1.3 cm long, green to yellow when young, purple-black when mature or dry, dehiscing along the back; seeds winged, about 8 mm long. Flowering period June-September, fruiting period September-December.
The Song Dynasty poet Yang Wanli praised it in a poem: "Delicate as if intoxicated, beautiful and still excellent, pressed by dew and bullied by wind, it leans especially. Who says flowers cannot be red for a hundred days? Crape myrtle long blooms for half a year." Xue Hui of the Ming Dynasty also wrote: "Crape myrtle flowers last the longest, in a brilliant ten-day period, summer passes into autumn, and new flowers continue to bloom on the branches." Northerners call the crape myrtle tree "monkey scratch-off", meaning the trunk is too smooth for even monkeys to climb. Its precious quality is being barkless. Things are valued for being rare. Among the thousands of trees and plants in the world, how many are barkless? Young crape myrtle trunks produce outer bark every year and shed it by themselves every year. After the outer bark falls off, the trunk appears fresh and smooth. Old crape myrtle trees no longer produce outer bark on the trunk, with veins standing out and a smooth, glossy, and clean surface. After the crape myrtle tree grows up, the outer bark of the trunk falls off, making it smooth and barkless. If people gently touch it, the branches immediately shake, the leaves move, and the whole body trembles, and it may even give off a faint "clucking" sound. This is a whole-body reaction of it "being ticklish", which is truly amazing. Because its branches and leaves are too slender, a light touch makes it sway, just as if it were ticklish.
Cultivation technology of crape myrtle
To plant crape myrtle, choose a wind-sheltered, sunny place with deep soil, fertile soil, and good drainage. Large seedlings transplanted must be taken with soil balls, and branches should be properly pruned, otherwise the survival rate will be low. Apply decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer in the planting hole, water thoroughly after planting, and water again 3 days later. Crape myrtle sprouts relatively late. Under normal circumstances, it does not unfold leaves until mid-April to the end of April. Newly planted plants may sprout even later because of root damage. Therefore, do not mistakenly think it has not survived and give up management.
After survival, plant management is relatively extensive. Crape myrtle has strong vitality, is easy to cultivate, and has no strict requirements for soil, but grows best when planted in deep, fertile sandy loam. It likes light, so it should be planted in a wind-sheltered, sunny place or at the base of the south wall of a courtyard. Insufficient light will not only result in fewer flowers or no flowering, but may even cause weak growth, thin branches, and small leaves. Crape myrtle is relatively cold-tolerant, but during the seedling stage, cold protection and heat preservation work should be done well. Plants over three years old do not need heat preservation. Crape myrtle is drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. Each year, before spring growth starts and after leaf fall in autumn, water once with green-up water and once with freezing water. At ordinary times, if it is not too dry, there is no need to water. Generally, during spring drought, water 1-3 times. In the rainy season, drainage work should be done well to prevent root rot from excessive water. It is not suitable to water in autumn. Fertilize each year after leaf fall in winter and before spring growth starts. Applying human feces and urine or sesame paste residue is even better, which can make the plants grow vigorously the next year and produce large, brightly colored flowers. In order to make crape myrtle flowers abundant and leaves lush, shape and prune it during the dormant period. Because crape myrtle inflorescences are borne at the tips of current-year new branches, during pruning the one-year-old branches should be heavily pruned and shortened so that nutrients are concentrated and branches grow robustly. Remove water shoots, dead branches, drooping branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, slender branches, and inward-growing branches. During the young tree stage, the lateral branches on the lower part of the main trunk should also be pruned in time so that the upper part of the main trunk can receive sufficient nutrients and form a good crown.
Crape myrtle cultivation and management are extensive, but dead branches and diseased and insect-infested branches should be cut off in time and burned. In order to prolong the flowering period, branches that have already flowered should be cut off in time so that they sprout again and grow the next round of flowering branches. In order to thicken the trunk, a large number of flowering branches can be cut off to concentrate nutrients for cultivating the trunk. Practice has proved that with proper management, crape myrtle can be made to bloom multiple times in one year through repeated pruning, for as long as 100-120 days.
Cultivation and sowing
Crape myrtle seedling cultivation is mostly by root suckers and sowing. Root sucker seedling cultivation can use wild shrubs for division and sucker transplanting, or collect fresh, robust seed roots and cut them into sections (section length can be determined by the thickness of the seed roots) for burying and planting. The planting time can be chosen in early spring.
Sowing and seedling cultivation of crape myrtle should pay attention to three important links: seed collection, seed storage, and field moisture preservation. Seed collection is generally in September-October, cutting and picking when the fruit changes from green to brown, then drying until they split and rubbing out the seeds. The timing of seed collection must be grasped well. Too early and the seeds are not mature; too late and the seeds will naturally fall off or dry up.
Before sowing, the seedbed should be prepared first. Because the seeds are about the size of tobacco seeds, sowing is like "planting tobacco seedlings". The seedbed soil should be finely prepared, and broadcasting should be uniform (can be sown together with sand), covered with fine soil, and covered with rice straw to preserve moisture. When crape myrtle seedlings germinate, the moisture-preserving rice straw should be removed in time, but attention should still be paid to keeping the seedbed moist.
In early April, select excellent seeds collected the previous year. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at 40°C, or soak them in cold water, so that the seeds absorb water thoroughly. Then, open shallow furrows on the prepared bed at a row spacing of 30 cm, scatter the seeds in the furrows, with a dosage of 14-20 kg per mu, cover with shallow soil after sowing, 0.5-1 cm thick, and press lightly. At 20°C, generally 15-20 days are needed for germination.
When the seedlings grow to 3 cm, carry out the first thinning combined with weeding, mainly pulling out clustered seedlings to improve ventilation and light conditions. When the seedlings are 5 cm tall, carry out the second thinning. At this time, keep seedlings at a plant and row spacing of 10-15 cm, leaving about 3000 seedlings per mu. June-August is the rapid growth period of crape myrtle. Combined with watering, apply 40 kg per mu of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, applying less but frequently, for a total of 3 fertilizations. When there is a lot of rain, drain water in time to prevent waterlogging. During this period, carry out 3-4 cultivations combined with weeding. When aphids or yellow slug moths harm the seedlings, use 2.5% decis 2000-3000 times solution or 50% parathion for control; if powdery mildew occurs, use 70% thiophanate-methyl for control. Under this management, crape myrtle seedlings can reach 60 cm in the same year.
Maintenance points
1. Strengthen light. Crape myrtle likes sunlight, and during the growing season it must be placed in a sunny place outdoors.
2. Water at the right time. In spring and winter, keep the pot soil moist. In summer and autumn, water once in the morning and once in the evening every day. During drought and high temperature, the number of waterings can be appropriately increased each day. Use river water, well water, rainwater, or tap water stored for 2 to 3 days for watering.
3. Fertilize regularly. Too much fertilizer for potted crape myrtle can easily cause excessive growth of branches and leaves. If fertilizer is lacking, it will instead lead to weak branches, yellowing leaf color, weakened overall plant growth, and fewer or no flowers. Therefore, fertilize regularly. In the peak growing seasons of spring and summer, more fertilizer is needed; after autumn begins, apply less; in winter during the dormant period, it may not be applied. Do not fertilize on rainy days or at noon during high summer temperatures. The fertilization concentration should follow the principle of "thin fertilizer applied frequently", applying once every 10 days from the Beginning of Spring to the Beginning of Autumn, and once every half month after the Beginning of Autumn, and stopping fertilizer after the Beginning of Winter.
4. Prune reasonably. Crape myrtle tolerates pruning, has strong branching ability, and a large amount of new shoot growth. Therefore, after flowering, cut off the residual flowers, which can prolong the flowering period. Remove water shoots, overlapping branches, crossing branches, radiating branches, and diseased branches at any time to avoid consuming nutrients.
5. Change pots in time. For potted crape myrtle, replace the pot soil every 2 to 3 years. Use a culture soil mixed with 5 parts loose mountain soil, 3 parts garden soil, and 2 parts fine river sand. When changing pots, organic fertilizers such as bone meal and bean cake powder can be used as base fertilizer, but the fertilizer must not directly contact the root system, so as not to damage the roots and affect plant growth.
Disease control of crape myrtle
Crape myrtle is a landscaping tree species susceptible to pests and diseases. As far as the Tianshui area is concerned, the scenery here is beautiful and the climate is pleasant, making it the most suitable place for crape myrtle growth. However, during long-term cultivation and management, we have also discovered many problems. Below, the occurrence patterns and control methods of some major pests and diseases of crape myrtle are introduced as follows.
Powdery mildew
Powdery mildew is a worldwide disease with a very wide host range, and crape myrtle is one of its important targets of infection. Crape myrtle powdery mildew occurs commonly in provinces and cities in China where crape myrtle is planted. After infection, it often causes crape myrtle leaves to turn yellow and fall off, directly affecting tree vigor and ornamental effect.
1.1 Symptoms - Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that mainly harms leaves, and young leaves are more easily infected than old leaves. The disease also harms branches, young shoots, flower buds, and flower buds. In the early stage of the disease, small white powdery spots appear on the leaves. After expanding, they become round or irregular discolored patches, covered with a layer of white powdery mildew. Later, the white powdery mildew layer turns gray. After flowers are infected, the surface is covered with a white powdery layer, and the flower spikes become deformed and lose ornamental value. Plants infected by powdery mildew become shorter, young leaves become twisted, deformed, and withered, leaves do not unfold and become smaller, and branches become deformed. In severe cases, the entire plant will die.
1.2 Occurrence pattern - Crape myrtle powdery mildew overwinters as mycelium on diseased buds, diseased branches, or fallen leaves. When the temperature is suitable in the following spring, the overwintering mycelium begins to grow and develop, producing a large number of conidia, which spread and infect with the help of airflow. In the Tianshui area, the disease generally begins to occur in April, tends to become severe in June, slows or stops in July-August because of hot, dry weather, but may break out again in September-October. Powdery mildew occurs severely in the rainy season or under conditions of relatively high humidity. Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer, overly dense planting, or poor ventilation and light transmission all favor the occurrence of the disease.
1.3 Control methods:
1.3.1 Horticultural control. Crape myrtle has strong sprouting ability, so for severely affected plants, all current-year branches can be cut off in winter and burned centrally, thereby completely eliminating the source of the disease. If potted crape myrtle at home is found to be infected with powdery mildew, remove the diseased leaves in time and place the potted flower in a ventilated and light-transmitting place. For field cultivation, control the planting density well and strengthen daily management, pay attention to increasing the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and control the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied, so as to improve plant disease resistance; at the same time, also pay attention to selecting disease-resistant varieties.
1.3.2 Chemical control. When the disease is severe, spray 3-4° Baume lime sulfur mixture before spring sprouting; during the growing season when the disease occurs, spray 80% zineb wettable powder 500 times solution, or 70% thiophanate-methyl 1000 times solution, or 20% triadimefon emulsifiable concentrate 1500 times solution, or 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800 times solution for control.
Brown spot disease
Brown spot disease is also a disease that occurs widely on landscaping plants and often occurs during the growing season of crape myrtle. When brown spot disease occurs severely, it often causes a large number of plant leaves to turn yellow and fall off. It affects ornamental value and flowering.
2.1 Symptoms - The pathogen of crape myrtle brown spot disease is also a fungus, mainly infecting leaves, and usually starting on the lower leaves, then gradually spreading upward. In the early stage of the disease, the spots are round or nearly round of varying sizes, with a few irregular in shape. The spots are purple-black to black, with lighter color at the edges. Later, the spot color deepens, appearing black or dark black, with an obvious boundary from the healthy part. In the later stage, the center of the spot becomes lighter in color and bears small gray-black mold spots. When the disease is severe, the spots connect into patches, and the entire leaf rapidly turns yellow and falls off early.
2.2 Occurrence pattern - Crape myrtle brown spot disease is caused by infection by Cercospora of the family Lythraceae. The pathogen overwinters in diseased residues in the form of mycelium or conidiomata. The following year, primary infection and secondary infection occur through conidia, and spread by airflow or wind and rain. In the Tianshui area, brown spot disease generally begins to occur in early summer and is severe in autumn. It is prone to outbreak in years or seasons with high temperature and abundant rain, especially frequent storms; usually lower leaves are more easily infected than upper leaves.
2.3 Control methods:
2.3.1 Horticultural control. Detect early and promptly remove diseased branches and diseased leaves, and burn or deeply bury them centrally to reduce the source of the pathogen. Strengthen cultivation management and shaping and pruning to make the plants ventilated and light-transmitting. For home potted plants, it is best to replace the soil with new soil every year.
2.3.2 Chemical control. In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times solution, or 65% zineb wettable powder 1000 times solution, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution for control.
Sooty mold
Sooty mold, also known as coal smoke disease, occurs commonly on landscaping plants in various parts of China. It infects crape myrtle mainly after it has been harmed by crape myrtle felt scale and crape myrtle spotted aphid, that is, using the sticky liquid they excrete as nutrition, inducing massive reproduction of sooty mold pathogens. After the disease occurs, the leaf surfaces of diseased plants are covered with a black mold layer, which not only affects the ornamental value of crape myrtle, but also affects leaf photosynthesis, causing weakened plant growth and early leaf fall.
3.1 Symptoms - The pathogen of crape myrtle sooty mold belongs to fungi, but there are many kinds of sooty mold pathogens, and multiple pathogens can infect the same plant. Their symptoms also differ slightly, but a black mold layer or black soot layer is an important feature of the disease. Sooty mold mainly infects leaves and branches. The disease first infects the upper surface of leaves along the main vein, then gradually covers the entire leaf surface. In severe cases, the leaf surface, branches, and even petioles are covered with black soot-like material. This black powdery material blocks leaf stomata and hinders normal photosynthesis.
3.2 Occurrence pattern - The pathogen of sooty mold overwinters as mycelium or ascocarps on diseased leaves and diseased branches. Because the sticky liquid excreted by crape myrtle spotted aphid and crape myrtle felt scale provides nutrition for the sooty mold pathogen, generally after these 2 pests occur, sooty mold occurs in large amounts. Late June to early September is the peak harm period of crape myrtle felt scale and crape myrtle spotted aphid. Moreover, the high temperature and high humidity at this time are also conducive to the occurrence of this disease, so spring (caused by overwintering pathogens) and autumn (caused by felt scale and spotted aphid) are the peak occurrence periods of crape myrtle sooty mold. In the Tianshui area, 1-2 generations occur per year.
3.3 Control methods:
3.3.1 Horticultural control ① Through measures such as thinning seedlings and pruning branches, make the trees ventilated and light-transmitting; ② Promptly control aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, etc., because the secretions of these insects are precisely the basis for the existence of sooty mold pathogens.
3.3.2 Chemical control. Commonly used chemicals are lime sulfur mixture: use 3° Baume lime sulfur mixture in winter, and 0.3° lime sulfur mixture in summer and autumn. Trithion or Litsea cubeba leaf juice can also be used for control. Or spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500-800 times solution, 70% thiophanate-methyl 500 times solution, etc.
Yellow slug moth
The yellow slug moth is medium-sized, and its larva is a stinging caterpillar, commonly known as yanglazi. It is one of the main omnivorous leaf-eating pests of garden flowers.
4.1 Damage characteristics - The yellow slug moth mainly causes damage by larvae feeding. Newly hatched larvae generally gather on the underside of leaves to feed on leaf flesh, making the leaves appear sieve-like; older larvae crawl and spread to cause damage, and directly eat the leaves. In severe cases, the leaves are eaten clean, leaving only petioles and veins.
4.2 Occurrence pattern - The yellow slug moth overwinters as mature larvae forming cocoons on damaged branches and trunks. Adults emerge each year from May to June. After mating and laying eggs, the first-generation larvae can be observed in late June. The larvae have 7 instars, and overlapping generations often occur. The peak damage period is July-September.
4.3 Control methods:
4.3.1 Horticultural control. In winter, combined with pruning, remove overwintering cocoons on branches, thereby eliminating or reducing the insect source.
4.3.2 Physical control. For home potted crape myrtle, after leaf fall, manually remove overwintering cocoons, which can completely eliminate the insect source. In field production, black light traps can be set during the adult emergence period to trap and kill adults.
4.3.3 Chemical control. Chemical control is best applied before larvae spread. Spray 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution, or 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution, or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate 4000 times solution for control.
Crape myrtle can also be harmed by green slug moths or brown slug moths, etc., but they all belong to the slug moth group. Apart from slight differences in morphology, they are very similar in living habits and occurrence patterns and can be controlled together when controlling the yellow slug moth.
Actias ningpoana
Actias ningpoana, also known as shuiqing moth, swallowtail moth, and long-tailed moth, belongs to the order Lepidoptera, family Saturniidae; it is distributed in most provinces and cities in North China, Central China, East China, and Southwest China. It harms many fruit trees and landscaping seedlings.
5.1 Morphological characteristics:
Adult body length 35-40 mm, wingspan about 122 mm; body surface has dense white fluff, wings powdery green, forewings passing through the prothorax purple-brown, with an eye-shaped spot in the center of the wing, hindwings with tail-like projections, 40 mm long. Eggs spherical and slightly flattened, 2 mm long, grayish brown. Larvae can reach about 80 mm long, yellow-green, with nodular protrusions on body segments, especially large on the 4 on the mesothorax and metathorax and 1 on the back of the 8th abdominal segment, with brown and white long hairs on the protrusions. Pupae 45-50 mm long, reddish brown, with a pale patch in the frontal region. Cocoon long ovate, gray-yellow or gray-brown.
5.2 Occurrence pattern - In the Tianshui area, 2 generations can occur per year; cocoons are usually made on branches, and larvae hatch in early to mid-May. The larvae have 5 instars in total, lasting 36-44 days. Mature larvae begin to pupate in early June, reaching the peak in mid-June. The pupal stage lasts 15-20 days. First-generation adults emerge and lay eggs from late June to early July; larvae hatch in early July, and by the end of September mature larvae form cocoons and pupate. The overwintering pupal stage is 6 months.
5.3 Damage characteristics - Larvae cause damage by eating leaves. Young larvae eat leaves into notches or holes, and after growing slightly larger they eat the entire leaf clean, leaving only petioles or thick veins.
5.4 Control methods:
5.4.1 Horticultural control - The overwintering pupae of Actias ningpoana are very large, making manual killing convenient. Older larvae can reach 80 mm long, have strong resistance, and an astonishing food intake, making chemical control relatively difficult, so manual capture can be adopted.
5.4.2 Chemical control - When using chemical control, pay attention to early detection and early prevention, and ensure as much as possible that chemicals are used before the larvae reach the 3rd instar; spray 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate 800 times solution, or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution, or 90% crystallized trichlorfon 1000 times, or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate 3000 times solution for control.
Crape myrtle spotted aphid
In northern China, 5-8 generations occur each year. It overwinters as eggs near buds and shoot tips. May is the early stage of occurrence, June is the peak period. Nymphs and adults gather to harm tender leaves, piercing and sucking sap, affecting growth and development.
Control methods:
6.1 In early spring, scrape off old bark and cut off damaged branches and burn them centrally to eliminate overwintering eggs.
6.2 Strengthen cultivation management measures to reduce the source of the disease.
6.3 When there are large numbers of aphids, spray 40% omethoate, 40% acephate 1000-1500 times solution, or spray derris extract 1000-2000 times solution, but attention must be paid to avoiding phytotoxicity.
6.4 Where conditions permit, artificially breed and release natural enemies, such as: Harmonia axyridis and green lacewing larvae.
6.5 Use colored boards to trap and kill, sticking winged aphids, or use white tin foil reflection to repel migrating aphids from settling.
Propagation methods of crape myrtle
Propagation technology. The crape myrtle tree has a graceful posture, smooth trunk, brilliant flower colors, and an especially long flowering period. Summer and autumn connect and it can last more than a hundred days. It is an excellent ornamental. It can be used both for beautifying courtyards, parks, and green spaces, and for potted ornamental viewing. Crape myrtle likes sunlight, is slightly shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and avoids waterlogging. It tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability. It also grows well on calcareous soil and has strong cold resistance. Crape myrtle can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, layering, division, grafting, etc.
Sowing propagation
A large number of robust and uniform seedlings can be obtained at one time. Collect mature seeds from November to December [11], remove the fruit skin, dry the seeds slightly, and store them dry in a container. In March of the following year, sow in wide drills or broadcast on a sandy loam seedbed, cover with a layer of fine burnt mud ash, to the extent that the seeds are no longer visible, and cover with grass. They germinate and emerge after more than 10 days. Remove the grass in time. When the seedlings have 2 pairs of true leaves, thin them after rain; weed frequently during the seedling stage, apply thin fertilizer 2-3 times in June-July, irrigate in summer to prevent drought. At the end of the year, the seedlings are about 40-50 cm tall. Vigorous ones can bloom in the same year and should be cut off in time. Transplant and grow them in the following spring equinox.
Cutting propagation
Cutting propagation is divided into two types: hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.
Hardwood cuttings are generally carried out from mid-to-late March to early April before the branches sprout. Select thick one-year-old branches, cut them into 15 cm long cuttings, and insert them into a loose, well-drained sandy loam seedbed. The insertion depth is such that the uppermost bud of the cutting is exposed. After insertion, water thoroughly and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat. When the seedlings grow to 15-20 cm, the film can be lifted and replaced with a shade net, watering at appropriate times. In the same year, the branches can grow to about 60-80 cm.
Softwood cuttings are carried out in July-August, when new branches grow vigorously and are most vital. Select semi-lignified branches, cut them into 8-10 cm long cuttings, and keep 2-3 leaves at the upper end. The insertion depth is 3-4 cm. After insertion, water thoroughly and set up a shade shed for shading. Generally, they can take root in about 20 days. Remove the film, keep the shade net, and water at appropriate times. In the same year, the branches can grow to about 60-80 cm, and the survival rate is very good.
Division propagation
In early March to April or in autumn, dig out the sucker seedlings sprouting from the root crown of the plant with roots, properly prune the root system and branches, and plant them separately. Small seedlings can be bare-rooted, and large seedlings should be taken with mud balls. During tending, prune and shape frequently to maintain a graceful tree shape and promote lush flowering branches.
Layering propagation
Layering can be done throughout the entire growing season of the crape myrtle, with March to April in spring being the better time. For air layering, select a 1- to 2-year-old branch, use a sharp knife to score and ring-bark the bark about 1.5 cm, exposing the xylem, apply rooting powder solution (diluted according to instructions) about 3 cm above the scored area, and after it dries, wrap a cylindrical plastic bag around the scored area, fill it with loose garden soil, water it, and tie both ends tightly. Check after one month; if the soil is too dry, add water to maintain moisture. After rooting, cut it off and plant separately.
Grafting method
Crape myrtle has several varieties, such as Silver Crape Myrtle (white flowers); Cuiwei (blue-purple, light purple flowers); Hongwei (peach red, deep red flowers), etc.; grafting several different flower-colored 1- or 2-year-old branches onto the same tree yields a survival rate of over 98%. The specific method is as follows: from late February to early March, before the crape myrtle branches sprout. When grafting, select a robust seedling grown from seed as the rootstock, take branches of the desired flower color as scions, and use the cleft grafting method. First make a vertical cleft about 5-8 cm deep at the top of the rootstock near the outer part, then take a 5-8 cm long scion with more than 2 buds, cut it into a wedge shape, and insert it into the cleft of the rootstock, aligning the cambium. Then wrap the entire scion branch completely with plastic film, exposing the bud tip. Using this method to graft branches of different colors in layers on the same rootstock forms a single tree with multiple colors. After 2-3 months of grafting, the film can be loosened. At this time the scion head can reach 50-80 cm in length; the branch tip should be cut short in time to prevent wind breakage, and it can be cultivated into a thick strong branch. Plants cultivated by this method have a very good survival rate.
From years of practice, the author has summarized the following conclusions: among the five propagation methods, the seedlings cultivated by the latter four methods maintain the excellent characteristics of the scion in flower color. However, among them, the cutting and division methods produce many sprouting branches, which need to be removed in time. If you want to cultivate a tree 3-6 m tall, the seedling grown from seed by the sowing method is better, producing noticeably fewer side branches, but the flower color of seedlings propagated by the sowing method is prone to variation.
Winter and spring layering
The time for layering is generally from November each year to February of the following year. First, on the prepared nursery ground, open furrows 20-30 cm deep at a row spacing of 40 cm, and apply 2-3 cm of cow dung or horse dung in the furrows as base fertilizer. Combined with winter and spring pruning, select healthy mother plants with excellent varieties, large and brightly colored flowers, and no pests or diseases, take well-developed 1- or 2-year-old branches, requiring a diameter of 1-4 cm and unlimited length, soak them in clean water for 2 hours, then bury them diagonally along the furrow, then cover with soil and firm the roots, press the upper part down along the furrow, cover with 10-15 cm of soil, and water thoroughly once, cover tightly with plastic film to increase temperature and retain moisture, and cover with 2 to 3 layers of straw mats to prevent freezing. On clear days, the straw mats can be removed during the day to increase temperature, and put back in the evening. With such treatment, they generally sprout and grow by mid-March, and by April tender buds can be seen emerging from the ground. At this time, a small arched shed can be made again and covered with plastic film, and the straw mats removed. If the temperature inside the shed exceeds 30°C, ventilate to cool it down. Starting from mid-March, the film should be uncovered every 20 days and soil should be banked along the furrow, a total of 3-4 times, so that the base of the seedlings changes from the original height into a 10 cm high ridge, prompting the production of a large number of adventitious roots. At the end of May, remove the arched shed and cut them apart in sections according to the sprouting of the seedlings; each sprout then becomes an independent young seedling. At this time, pinch the tips to promote side branches, and apply a topdressing of farmyard manure, such as once with thin cake fertilizer water or urea water, then bank soil along the furrow again to promote growth. After that, apply topdressing 3-4 more times. If flower buds appear, remove them in time. Generally in the same year they can become plants with a full crown shape and luxuriant branches and leaves. After autumn, on a rainy day, lift the seedlings out with soil, avoiding damage to the fine roots as much as possible, and move them to a sunny place with sufficient water and fertilizer for planting. After survival, water and fertilizer should be controlled to enhance their adaptability. Through comparison, under the same conditions, crape myrtle seedlings propagated by this method not only have developed root systems and a high survival rate after transplanting, but are also clearly superior to other propagated seedlings in crown shape and other aspects. Through observation, many vine plants can also be propagated by this method, such as wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, forsythia, etc.
Shaping and pruning
Crape myrtle should use the open-center layered shape or natural open-center shape; in the past, the flat-top shape was mostly used.
Uses of crape myrtle: material selection for bonsai making
① Sowing propagation: from October to November, cut mature fruit spikes, dry them in the sun and rub them apart, take the seeds and store them dry, and sow in March of the following year (no germination treatment needed). After sowing, cover with a layer of fine soil, just enough that the seeds are not visible, then cover with straw or thatch. After about 2-3 weeks, when seedlings emerge, remove the grass in time. When the seedlings grow 2 pairs of true leaves, build a shed for shading, thin the seedlings, weed, loosen the soil, fertilize, etc. In the same year the seedlings can grow to about 40 cm tall.
② Division propagation: because the crape myrtle root system has strong suckering ability, carry out division propagation in October. Dig up the suckering plants at the roots together with the roots, divide them with a sharp blade, and plant them separately with roots; or near the base of an old stump, select sucker branches with fibrous roots, cut them off with a sharp knife, and plant them in the nursery or in pots to grow stock; generally they can bloom in 2-3 years.
③ Cutting propagation: cutting propagation is the customary method for making miniature or small crape myrtle bonsai, and takes shape relatively quickly. Before budding in early spring, cut 1-year-old branches for cuttings, and they can bloom after 5 months of growth; or in July, cut semi-lignified branches for cuttings, and they can bloom in 2-3 years; or when digging old stumps, use the cut thick roots for cuttings. Generally cut robust branches 10 cm-15 cm long (or according to the creative concept and design, determine the length of the cutting branches and cutting branches of crape myrtle), insert them into loose soil, shade appropriately, and keep the soil moist. After 2-3 months of cutting, new roots have basically grown well. Except from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., give appropriate sunlight exposure, and lightly prune the new shoots once to promote dense side branches and form a crown; or according to the maker's creative concept and design, cut away unnecessary branches on the landscape stump, arrange the stock shape well, remove it with a saw or sharp knife (the length of the landscape stump branches depends on need), make the cut smooth and slanted, and insert it as soon as it is taken. Before cutting, soak the base of the landscape stump in a 100 ppm aqueous solution of a-naphthaleneacetic acid, ABT No. 1 or No. 2 rooting powder for 2 hours. After treatment, cuttings root early, have developed root systems, and can increase the survival rate. Choose ordinary sandy loam or a mixture of 2 parts sand and 3 parts organic fertilizer with good air permeability as the potting culture soil, directly pot the rooting-agent-treated landscape stump branches, firm them, water thoroughly, shade, and fix the landscape stump branches with supports to keep them stable, keep the soil moist, and frequently spray water on the leaves after they grow. After rooting, water normally. They can root in just over a month. At this time, spray the leaves with 0.1% urea and compound fertilizer solution to promote synchronous growth of the aboveground and underground parts. After the root system becomes very strong, enter normal fertilizer and water management and full sunlight (that is, no shading is needed).
④ Digging from the wild: A. It is recommended not to dig crape myrtle stumps at will in nature reserves, around residents' houses, beside roads, and other places just to obtain material, so as not to damage the ecological environment, residents' houses, roads, etc. B. The digging time is generally from early October to before budding in early spring, and the cold season and dry windy weather should be avoided as much as possible. When digging, first take old stumps with thick roots and stems, twisted and strange shapes, or hollowed-out trunks shaped like wrinkled, transparent, leaking grotesque rocks, etc. After digging them up, plant them directly in pots, or plant them in moist, fertile, loose, and breathable soil for cultivation, and move them into pots after the root system recovers growth and the branches and leaves are luxuriant.
Potting
① Pot selection: choose a purple clay pottery pot or a glazed pottery pot.
② Soil: the culture soil requires loam rich in organic matter and well drained. You can choose 5 parts leaf mold or sandy soil (tidal mud sand), 2 parts fired soil (fire loam), and 1 part coal ball ash, fully mixed and prepared.
③ Planting: transplanting is often carried out from after leaf fall in autumn to before budding in spring. Because crape myrtle should be transplanted with a soil ball as much as possible to protect the fibrous roots. At the same time, prune the upper branches of the pot. Before planting, pay attention to padding the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot to prevent water accumulation; when planting, make the root system spread out and not curl up in the pot soil; pay attention to proper positioning, and adjust the posture and position of the tree stump, etc.; after planting, strengthen management, water frequently to keep the pot soil moist, place it under a shade shed for a period of time, and when growth is vigorous, move it to a sunny, ventilated place.
Styling
① For making bonsai from small crape myrtle seedlings, the multi-trunk (branch) twisting method can be used to thicken the main trunk. Use the suckering branches from the base of the crape myrtle to wind one by one along the main trunk in a spiral manner, and fix them with fine string to prevent them from loosening. After 2-3 years, the branches and the main trunk can heal together and become a whole, making the main trunk noticeably thicker and appearing old and quaint; you can also plant small crape myrtle seedlings of different flower colors together in one hole, tie the base together with palm fiber, twine the main trunks around each other, twist and climb them together, and fix them with fine string. After 3-4 years, the main trunk becomes vigorous, quaint, and thick, and the same plant has rich flower colors, uniquely distinctive.
② The pruning and shaping of crape myrtle is generally carried out once in winter with severe pruning. When pruning, keep the branches evenly distributed and the crown complete, cut off overly dense branches, sprouting branches on the trunk, and improperly positioned branches; cut vigorous water sprouts short by 2/3, generally retaining branches about 6 cm from the previous winter's cut; in spring, when new branches grow to about 15 cm, pinch the tips, retaining about 10 cm at the lower part, to promote the growth of two forked branches at the top. When the two forked branches grow to about 20 cm, pinch again, retaining about 15 cm at the lower part, to promote the sprouting of new branches, and remove all branches that affect viewing and styling. After the pruned branches grow flower spikes, cut off the weaker flower branches and buds unrelated to the styling. After the flowers bloom, cut off the faded flowers. If pruned properly, the flowers can bloom until around National Day.
③ Crape myrtle is a deciduous tree species. Under natural conditions it begins to shed leaves in mid-October. In order to prolong the leaf-viewing period after flowering, you can remove old leaves in early September. Note that when removing leaves, do not remove all the leaves on a branch at once; remove them in batches. After removing leaves, frequently spray water on the branches and the remaining leaves. In 15-20 days new leaves will emerge. The new leaves are small, red, thick, and glossy, and the non-lignified twigs are all purplish red. They can be viewed until December, and this does not affect flowering and leafing out the following year.
④ Crape myrtle branches are mostly slender, so the method of "combining pruning and wiring" should be adopted, and excessive forced twisting is not suitable. The main trunk and branches should be appropriately wired, and the remaining side branches should be pruned and shaped. Palm fiber is mostly used for wiring. Metal wire wiring easily damages the crape myrtle bark and should not be used. Wiring is mostly done from late autumn to early spring of the following year.
⑤ To make the smooth, flat crape myrtle bark show an old, mottled appearance, during the vigorous growth period, use a knife or axe to cut or strike part of the bark, apply lime sulfur mixture to the xylem to make it turn white, giving people the feeling of having weathered many years. You can also split, break, or twist the branches and trunks. After callus tissue grows, the trunk will be covered with galls and tumors, showing an aged appearance. You can also use a sharp axe to split off large pieces from a smooth, flat large crape myrtle stump (determined by the size of the stump and the creative concept and design), and use an electric drill, wood chisel, etc. to carve and decorate the exposed xylem, making it show a natural withered and decayed form. The split-off large stump pieces, after treatment with rooting powder and fungicide, can be inserted into the nursery, keeping the pot soil moist, paying attention to shading, so that they normally take root and sprout. Generally in 1-2 years they can be potted. This method can be used to make small or miniature deadwood-style bonsai.
Distribution area of crape myrtle
Main distribution areas: Jiangsu, Shandong, Zhejiang, Anhui, Hebei, Henan, Hubei, Jiangxi, Beijing, Tianjin and other provinces and cities. After many years of introduction, crape myrtle can be cultivated in many places.
In China, it grows or is cultivated in Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, Fujian, Jiangxi, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Hubei, Henan, Hebei, Shandong, Anhui, Shaanxi, Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou and Jilin; it is semi-shade tolerant, likes to grow on fertile and moist soil, and can also tolerate drought. It grows well in both calcareous soil and acidic soil. Native to Asia, it is now widely planted in tropical regions.
Variety classification of crape myrtle
Common ones include: Dwarf Crape Myrtle, Trailing Crape Myrtle, Silver Crape Myrtle, Red Crape Myrtle, Cuiwei, etc. Among dwarf crape myrtles, the Japanese dwarf crape myrtle has relatively stable traits.
At present, the most complete collection of crape myrtle varieties is at the Jiangsu Crape Myrtle Base: respectively there are tall-stem crape myrtles with a branching point of 1.5 m, and clump crape myrtles [9] with a spread of 10-100, in a quantity of about 1 million.
The main varieties of crape myrtle are:
(1) Crape Myrtle: flowers purplish red.
(2) Cuiwei: flowers blue-purple, leaves dark green.
(3) Red Crape Myrtle: flowers fiery red.
(4) Silver Crape Myrtle: flowers white or slightly tinged with pale cocoon color, leaves light green. Clump crape myrtle picture. Among large-specification clump crape myrtle seedlings, Cuiwei with blue petals is the best. It has a panicle inflorescence, borne at the top of new branches, up to 20 cm long. Each flower has 6 petals, and the petals are much wrinkled, like a wheel. When in bloom the whole tree is covered with flowers, gorgeous as rosy clouds, hence it is also called Mantanghong. The fruit is a capsule, shaped like a soybean, containing many seeds, ripening in November. Propagation and cultivation: crape myrtle propagation can use sowing, division, and cutting. Sowing method: collect seeds in November, dry the capsule fruit in the sun and thresh, then store dry, and sow in March of the following year. After sowing, cover with a layer of fine soil, just enough that the seeds are not visible, then cover with straw.
Medicinal dietary or medicinal value of crape myrtle
The medical information and health dietary information on Hugarden are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical staff, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Pharmacological analysis
Aliases: Itch Tree, Zijing Pi [Sichuan], Zijin Biao [Jiangxi]
Source: the plant crape myrtle Lagerstroemia indica L. of the genus Lagerstroemia in the family Lythraceae, using roots and bark as medicine. In summer and autumn, collect the shed bark and dry it in the sun; the roots can be collected at any time.
Nature, flavor, and meridian entry: slightly bitter, astringent, neutral.
Functions and indications: invigorate blood, stop bleeding, remove toxin, reduce swelling. Used for various bleedings, fractures, mastitis, eczema, hepatitis, cirrhotic ascites.
Usage and dosage: 25-100 grams.
The flowers are bright and beautiful, the flowering period is long, and the lifespan is long; tree ages can reach 200 years. It is now widely cultivated in tropical regions as a garden ornamental tree, and is sometimes also used for bonsai. The white-flowered one is called Silver Crape Myrtle L. indica Linn. f. alba (Nichols.) Rehd. The wood of crape myrtle is hard and rot-resistant, and can be used as timber for farm tools, furniture, construction, etc.; the bark, leaves, and flowers are strong purgatives; a decoction of the roots and bark can treat hemoptysis, hematemesis, and hemafecia.
Landscape uses of crape myrtle
The dead-peak-style crape myrtle bonsai, although the stump is decayed and withered, has luxuriant branches and leaves, bright colors, and abundant spikes, like a blazing fire, inspiring people. Beautiful crape myrtle bonsai. As an excellent flowering tree, crape myrtle is widely used in landscaping in park greening, courtyard greening, road greening, street districts, and cities, etc. In practical application, it can be planted in front of buildings, within courtyards, beside ponds, by rivers, next to lawns, and on both sides of small paths in parks, all very suitable. It is also a good material for making bonsai.
Cultural background and literary descriptions of crape myrtle
As if enchanted and intoxicated, lovely and fine, pressed by dew and bullied by wind, leaning all the more. Who says flowers have no hundred days of red? The crape myrtle blooms for half a year. -- Yang Wanli, Song Dynasty
The crape myrtle flower lasts the longest, brilliantly blooming through a ten-day period; summer passes beyond the autumn order, and new flowers continue to open on the branches. -- Xue Hui, Ming Dynasty
In the silk-thread pavilion the documents are quiet, in the bell and drum tower the water clock runs long. Sitting alone at dusk, who is my companion? The crape myrtle flower faces the Crape Myrtle Official. -- Bai Juyi, "Crape Myrtle Flower"
The crape myrtle flower faces the Crape Myrtle Old Man; though the names are the same, the appearances differ. It alone occupies the fragrant beauty as a summer scene, and does not entrust its colors to the spring wind. At the Xunyang official residence two tall trees, in the Xing Shan monk courtyard a
large clump. How does it compare to the place arranged in Suzhou, beneath the flower hall railing in the bright moonlight. -- Bai Juyi, "Crape Myrtle Flower"
Related legends
In Chinese folk culture there is a legend about the origin of the crape myrtle flower. In ancient times, there was a fierce beast named Nian, which harmed countless people and livestock. So the Purple Star descended to the mortal world, locked it deep in the mountains, and allowed it to come out only once a year. In order to supervise Nian, the Purple Star transformed into the crape myrtle flower and stayed in the human world, bringing peace and beauty to the world... Legend says that if crape myrtle flowers bloom all around your home, the Crape Myrtle Fairy will favor you and give you a lifetime of happiness.
City flower
Now some places have made crape myrtle the city flower.
Crape myrtle is the city flower of Anyang City, Henan Province. Also known as Barkless Tree and Mantanghong, it is an ornamental flowering tree species widely planted in urban areas.
Crape myrtle is also the city flower of Tai'an City, Shandong Province. Also called Hundred-Day Red, it belongs to the family Lythraceae and is a deciduous shrub or small tree. In the courtyard of Luohan Cliff there is a crape myrtle tree nearly a hundred years old, with a trunk twisting like a coiled dragon, full of ancient charm. Every year from summer to autumn, when it blooms it is brilliant like fire; when a breeze blows, it sways delicately, too beautiful to take in. The Tai'an Municipal Government widely plants crape myrtle on the streets, in courtyards, and in scenic areas of Tai'an City, and has designated it as the city flower.
Crape myrtle is also the city flower of Xuzhou City, Jiangsu Province. Crape myrtle is also called Itch Flower; when you gently scratch the branches with your fingers, the whole plant trembles slightly, as if very ticklish. Xuzhou has widely planted crape myrtle on both sides of its roads. When the flowers bloom, in brilliant purples and reds, they make this famous historical and cultural city of Xuzhou even more beautiful and lively.
Crape myrtle is also the city flower of Zigong City, Sichuan. Also called Itch Flower, it can be seen everywhere in various places in Zigong.
Crape myrtle is the city flower of Xiangyang City, Hubei Province. Xiangyang is one of the regions in China with the most crape myrtle varieties; the mountainous areas of its jurisdictions Baokang and Nanzhang counties have large numbers of wild plants. The oldest tree is over a thousand years old, ranking as China's most ancient.
Crape myrtle is the city flower of Jintan City, Jiangsu Province, and the city tree is the zelkova.
Crape myrtle is also the city flower of Yantai City, Shandong Province, and the city tree is the Chinese pagoda tree.
Crape myrtle is also the city flower of Jiyuan City, Henan Province, and the city tree is also the Chinese pagoda tree.
Flower language of crape myrtle
Infatuated love, good luck, eloquence, women.
Crape myrtle pictures