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Why do azaleas lose their leaves in winter and why do the leaves turn yellow?

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Azaleas are very beautiful, but sometimes their leaves turn yellow. Why do azaleas lose their leaves in winter? What causes the leaves to turn yellow? Why azaleas lose their leaves in winter: soil reasons. Azaleas are plants that prefer acidic soil, and continuous watering will make the soil become alkaline.

Azaleas are very beautiful, but sometimes their leaves turn yellow. Why do azaleas lose their leaves in winter? What causes the leaves to turn yellow?

Why azaleas lose their leaves in winter:

1. Soil reasons

Azaleas are plants that prefer acidic soil. Continuous watering will make the soil become alkaline, which is not conducive to their living conditions, so leaf drop naturally occurs. Therefore, when choosing soil, choose acidic soil, add some fertilizer appropriately, and maintain the acidity of the soil.

2. Seasonal changes

When the weather changes suddenly, the plant protects itself by instinct and reduces the water in its body, which leads to leaf drop. This situation will recover automatically after a period of time.

3. Watering

Improper watering can also cause leaves to drop. In winter, water evaporates slowly, and overwatering can likewise lead to leaf drop.

4. Environmental factors

When cultivating azaleas, we must maintain the humidity of the environment and also keep the soil slightly moist, but we must not let cold wind blow directly on them. Do not rush to change the soil or fertilize. In winter, they also need sufficient light. When caring for them indoors, try to place them under a south-facing window, and the ambient temperature must not be lower than 5°C. Also, do not change their location casually, to prevent temperature changes. But do not put them in a place with relatively poor air quality.

5. Improper fertilizing

If you fertilize improperly, it can also easily cause problems with the leaves. You should know that in winter the physiological activities of the plant are weakened. If the fertilizer concentration is too high, it will more easily cause its leaves to drop. So at this time we should apply a little thin liquid fertilizer.

What causes azalea leaves to turn yellow:

1. Soil leaning alkaline

The soil and water in northern China contain relatively more alkali, while azaleas need to grow in a slightly acidic environment. In addition, if the water lacks soluble iron, azaleas are prone to yellow leaves. The best solution is to add ferrous sulfate solution or granules to the soil. This can both supplement iron and make the soil slightly acidic, achieving two goals at once.

2. Improper light

Azaleas like a cool and shady growing environment, but if they are placed in a shaded place without light for a long time, or if the light is too strong, the branches and leaves of the azalea will grow leggy, the leaves will be thin and yellow, and they will not bloom or bloom only sparsely. At this time, the azalea needs to be promptly moved to a sunny place or a shady place for cultivation. It is best to give the azalea a fixed time for sun exposure.

3. Too much irritation

Plants, like animals, cannot be subjected to strong irritation. Of course, the irritation here does not refer to fright or similar stimuli, but to stimuli that can affect the plant, including pesticide concentrations for pest and disease control that are too high, sudden temperature changes, and so on. All of these can cause the leaf tips or parts of the leaf surface of azaleas to turn yellow and scorch. Therefore, during cultivation, pesticides should be used reasonably, unnecessary air pollution should be reduced, and in seasons with changeable temperatures, attention should be paid to giving azaleas a relatively stable temperature for growth.

4. Temperature effects

The suitable growing temperature for azaleas is 15-25°C. In winter, they can overwinter safely at temperatures above 10°C. But winter weather is changeable. If they are not moved indoors in time or are directly blown by cold wind, azaleas are very susceptible to cold damage, resulting in yellow leaves, and in severe cases they will wither and die. Therefore, in mid-October each year, move azaleas indoors for care, place them in a sunny spot, and keep the room temperature at around 10°C.

Alright, that is all for the introduction to the reasons why azalea leaves turn yellow. Everyone understands now, right?

It is almost the New Year, and your flowers are still turning yellow and dropping leaves. What should you do?

Azalea

(Author: Lavender  Source: Sina Blog)

Azaleas are one of the top choices for New Year flowers. Placing a pot of blooming azaleas at home during the New Year gives you plenty of face when friends and relatives visit. It is just that yellow leaves are not good...

(Author: Laoniu Chouchou  Source: Sina Blog)

Primary cause: improper watering

For newly bought azaleas whose leaves turn yellow, most of the reason is improper watering, either too much or too little.

The correct way to water azaleas should be to water when dry and let dry between waterings, that is, water thoroughly when the top 2-3 cm of the potting soil is dry. Normally, you should also spray water on the azalea leaves and around them to increase the surrounding air humidity.

Secondary cause: temperature too low

Azaleas are southern flowers and are not cold-tolerant. In winter, the temperature should be kept at 5-10°C. Below 5°C, azaleas will stop growing.

Therefore, for flower lovers who have no heating at home in winter and the temperature is very low, Huahua does not recommend that you buy azaleas.

(Author: Yushui Lanling  Source: Sina Blog)

Camellia

(Author: fcm1987  Source: Nipic)

Quite a few flower lovers also like camellias, but after growing them at home they find the leaves have turned yellow. What is going on?

(Source: Jinhua News Network)

Primary cause: improper watering

Watering is indeed a big problem, and with camellias, most of the time people water too much. In winter, camellias need less water, and the potting soil should be kept on the dry side. If the temperature at home can reach above 20°C, then watering when dry and letting dry between waterings is enough.

Secondary cause: insufficient elements

If some of the trace elements needed during the growth of camellias cannot be satisfied, it can also cause the leaves to turn yellow.

At this time, you can fertilize with 20%-30% bean cake fertilizer, once a month, or add a small amount of ferrous sulfate when watering normally. Note that 1-2 drops at a time is enough.

(Author: wenxiong34d  Source: PConline)

Kalanchoe

(Author: Huachong  Source: Jiazaishenzhen)

Kalanchoe can be said to be one of the super easy-to-grow plants, but there are still flower lovers whose kalanchoe leaves turn yellow. What exactly is the reason? Let Huahua explain in detail.

(Author: Drunk Cat z  Source: China Landscape Photography Network)

Primary cause: natural metabolism

Flower lovers can first observe. If only the leaves at the bottom of the kalanchoe turn yellow while the top is fine, then it is normal metabolism. Flower lovers only need to remove the yellowed leaves.

Secondary cause: overwatering

If the leaves first become soft and then turn yellow, then it is waterlogging.

You can take the kalanchoe out to get some sun. After the edges of the leaves dry up, use scissors to cut off the dried parts. The remaining leaves will heal themselves in a few days, and new shoots will slowly grow out.

(Author: LF680410  Source: Hua Bar)

Orchid

(Author: yangyang  Source: PConline)

I do not know how many flower lovers grow orchids. Many people think orchids are not easy to grow. In Huahua's view, there are no flowers that cannot be grown well, only people who are unwilling to put in the effort!

(Author: nbmeid  Source: 19 Lou)

Primary cause: unsuitable environment

If it is a newly bought orchid, then the yellow leaves are very likely due to the environment, which temporarily affects the orchid's nutrient absorption, causing yellow leaves.

Cut off the leaves that have already turned yellow, and then care for it normally.

Secondary cause: improper watering

For orchids, whether lack of water or waterlogging, both can cause leaves to turn yellow. If even the tender leaves turn yellow, then it means too much water. If the lower leaves start to turn yellow and then continuously spread upward, it means too little water and it is dry.

If there is too much water, you can move the orchid to a well-lit and ventilated place, which can accelerate water evaporation.

If there is too little water, then water it. Note that you must water thoroughly, that is, until you can see water flowing out of the small holes at the bottom.

(Author: Overseas Fisherman  Source: Huitu Network)

Money Tree

Money Tree. Most flower lovers who buy a Money Tree are probably doing so for good fortune, but the Money Tree's tendency to get yellow leaves is also very frustrating...

Primary cause: too much water

The root system of the Money Tree is not well developed. Once overwatered, it is prone to root rot, and once root rot occurs, the leaves will turn yellow.

Use a small iron rod or similar tool to insert along the edge of the pot and gently stir the potting soil to accelerate the evaporation of water in the soil. After that, wait until the surface of the potting soil is dry and whitish before watering. Water thoroughly in one go.

Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a must-buy flower for the New Year. Not only is it beautiful, but its meaning is also very good! It is perfect for giving as a gift!

Primary cause: temperature too low

Phalaenopsis is a tropical flower with high temperature requirements. The optimal growing temperature is 18-28°C. If the temperature is below 15°C, it will affect the growth of Phalaenopsis.

Secondary cause: improper watering

If even the tender leaves turn yellow, it means there is too much water. If the top and new leaves are fine, but the lower old leaves turn yellow, it means too little water and long-term failure to water thoroughly.

If there is too much water, you can stuff a strip of cloth under the nutrient pot, and it will slowly absorb the water. Or gently turn up the surface potting soil so that the soil contacts more air and water evaporation is accelerated.

If there is too little water, water thoroughly in one go. After that, wait until the surface of the potting soil is dry and whitish before watering again, and likewise water thoroughly.

Clivia

(Author: Hu Xiqing  Source: Wuhai Photography Network)

Clivia is a perennial plant. If grown well, it can even bloom every year, but if grown poorly, yellow leaves are inevitable...

Main cause: improper watering

If the leaves of Clivia start to turn yellow from the tips of the tender leaves and then gradually develop downward, it means there is too much water. If the tips of the old leaves turn yellow, then it is lack of water.

For lack of water, you can use the soaking method: put the Clivia together with its pot into a large basin filled with water, and take it out after the surface potting soil is moist. Then the Clivia has been watered thoroughly.

If there is too much water, loosen the soil a bit, being careful not to damage the root system of the Clivia, and then place it in a well-ventilated place such as a balcony to speed up water evaporation.

Secondary cause: insufficient light

Insufficient light can also cause the new leaves of Clivia to turn pale yellow. Especially in winter, when light is relatively weak, move the Clivia promptly to a place with good light.

Cyclamen

(Source: 360 Baike)

Cyclamen is also called radish flower, and it is also one of the flowers everyone chooses during the New Year. Look at its petals, do they look like rabbit ears?

(Source: 3lian)

Main cause: dry air

Cyclamen likes water and is very sensitive to moisture, and it also has relatively high requirements for air humidity. Once the moisture does not meet the requirements, yellow leaves and wilting are inevitable!

Indoors, keep the potting soil of the cyclamen moist and spray around it more to increase air humidity.

Secondary cause: insufficient light

Although cyclamen fears strong light, if it is kept in a place with insufficient light for a long time, it will also get yellow leaves!

Winter light is originally not sufficient enough, nor is it strong, so place the cyclamen in a relatively bright place.

(Author: smile Yibo Mom  Source: Baidu Zhidao)

Methods and precautions for growing potted azaleas at home

Azalea is also called shan zhizhu, shan shiliu, and yingshanhong. It is a deciduous shrub in the Ericaceae family. Deciduous shrub. There are about 900 species of azaleas in the world. China is the country with the most azalea distribution, with about 530 species. There are many kinds of azaleas, with brilliant flower colors, and both flowers and leaves are beautiful. They are suitable for both ground planting and pot cultivation, and are one of China's ten traditional famous flowers.

Soil requirements

To make azaleas bloom beautifully, first become familiar with the soil of the azalea's growing environment. The pH value should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Avoid alkaline or sticky soil. The suitable growing temperature is 12°C to 25°C. In summer, provide shade and sun protection; in winter, protect against freezing and keep warm, and it is best to move them indoors. According to the details introduced above, with careful cultivation, azaleas will surely bloom very beautifully. Azaleas like fertile soil. Acidic humus soil formed by piling up and rotting dead branches and fallen leaves over many years is most suitable for cultivating azaleas. Clay soil has poor permeability and poor drainage and is not suitable for use. In particular, soil containing lime must never be used.

Fertilizing methods

When applying additional fertilizer, do not apply alkaline fertilizer water. Burying rancid fats such as lard into the soil can make azaleas grow vigorously, bloom more, and have bright flower colors. Use nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers correctly. With sufficient nitrogen fertilizer, the leaves are dark green and growth is vigorous. With insufficient nitrogen fertilizer, the leaf color is pale and lusterless, the leaves are thin and aged-looking, the branches are short, small, and weak, and the flowers are few and small. Too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause leggy growth. With sufficient phosphorus fertilizer, the plant is strong, bears many flowers, and the flower color is bright. With insufficient phosphorus, there are few branches and they are weak, the petals are thin, and the flowering period is short. When potassium fertilizer is lacking, azalea branches are slender and the tissues are soft. When the plant is young, apply a little more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer; when mature, apply a little more phosphorus fertilizer. If the soil has already become alkaline, causing the leaves to lose green and turn yellow-white, additional ferrous sulfate should be applied. Fertilizer water should not be too concentrated. Apply thin fertilizer frequently. Liquid fertilizer that is too concentrated will burn the root system and harm the plant.

Water requirements

1. Azaleas fear both dryness and waterlogging. If the azalea potting soil is too dry, the root tips will shrink. First the leaves droop or curl, and later the tips of the tender leaves turn scorched yellow. In severe cases, they cannot recover for a long time and gradually wither and die. If the potting soil is too wet, aeration is poor, causing root rot. In mild cases, the leaves turn yellow and fall early, and growth pauses; in severe cases, the plant dies.

2. If the azalea potting soil is too dry and causes root damage, the remedy is to soak the whole pot and roots in water, place it in a cool place, and spray the leaves several times. If excessive moisture causes yellow leaves to fall early, place the affected plant in a ventilated place, control the frequency and amount of watering, and stop fertilizing to prevent infection by pests and diseases.

3. Azaleas like a humid environment. Water should often be sprinkled around the pot and on the leaf surface to keep the surrounding environment moist. If the surrounding environment is dry, azaleas are very susceptible to disease. The remedy is to place the affected azalea in a pit under grapevines or similar trees, cover it with glass, spray water in the pit frequently, and allow slanted light to pass through the grape branches and leaves. The diseased flower will slowly return to normal.

Light management

After azaleas form buds, they need more sun, but during the flowering period, care must be taken to avoid direct strong light. Strong light will fade the flower color and make the flowers wither early. Scattered light is required, and good ventilation is also required.

Precautions

1. The roots of azaleas are as fine as hair strands, and there are very few thick main roots. They fear both dryness and moisture, and especially fear heavy fertilizer. If watered too much, the roots soak in water; if too dry, the branches and leaves shrink and the leaf petals fall off, posing a great threat to the plant. As for applying heavy fertilizer, it can endanger their lives.

2. After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers must be cut off to avoid seed production consuming nutrients. After new branches sprout, thin the branches appropriately, deciding whether to keep or remove them according to the plant's growth.

3. Azaleas are most suitable for planting in clay pots, because clay pots absorb water and breathe, which is beneficial to root growth and development and makes the branches and leaves lush.

4. There are particular considerations for the placement of potted azaleas. Generally, they should be placed on a southeast-facing balcony, and they must be ventilated. Move them as little as possible. Without ventilation, they are prone to black spot disease and massive leaf drop.

5. Azaleas also have moderate light requirements. Avoid direct light in summer. For fertilizing, master the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently, preferring dilute over concentrated, and apply an organic compound fertilizer to the potting soil once a month. Spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days as a foliar fertilizer. Water in a timely manner, and you can also add edible vinegar to the water to increase acidity.

6. Promptly thin buds and leaves, removing part of the buds and leaves that have grown too many and too densely, so as to improve air circulation and concentrate nutrients into the buds. After the buds form, increase nutrition and apply an appropriate amount of additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; otherwise, the buds will turn into leaf buds.

7. The main causes of leaf drop and failure to bloom in azaleas are: excessively strong direct sunlight in summer, frost damage from severe cold, overwatering, too concentrated fertilizer, being kept indoors for too long, being placed in a spot with poor air circulation or a dark, damp place, and exposure to acid rain, so these situations should be avoided during care.

8. Repotting and changing the soil does not need to be done every year; generally once every 2 to 3 years, with as little damage to the roots as possible. The timing should be after the flowers fade or in autumn, and at the same time spray thiophanate-methyl to prevent disease.

9. The main insect pests of azaleas are red spider mites, aphids, and others, which can be controlled by spraying fenvalerate and similar products, with good results; if they are not dead after three days, spray again. The main disease is leaf spot, caused by a stuffy, hot environment and lack of light. Measures can be taken to promote air circulation on the one hand, and on the other hand to spray Bordeaux mixture and carbendazim.

10. The main propagation method for azaleas is cuttings. Around Grain in Ear, choose new shoots 5 cm to 10 cm long, cut them off at the branching point, strip off the lower leaves, keep 3 to 4 leaves at the top, insert 1/3 of the shoot into the soil, water thoroughly, and cover with plastic film. Strengthen management as usual, and transplant after one year.

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