How to Handle Dry, Curled Leaves on Calathea ornata and Tips for Growing It in Water
Calathea ornata is one of those plants that many people know about, so what should you do if its leaves become dry and curled? Can it be grown in water? What to do when Calathea ornata leaves dry out and curl: mist more during the growing season. Calathea ornata has relatively large leaves and water evaporates fairly quickly, so it should be watered promptly.
Calathea ornata is one of those plants that many people know about, so what should you do if its leaves become dry and curled? Can it be grown in water?
What to do when Calathea ornata leaves dry out and curl:
1. Mist more during the growing season
Calathea ornata has relatively large leaves and water evaporates fairly quickly, so it should be watered promptly. Spraying is best, and as new leaves increase, gradually increase the amount of water given.
At the same time, increase air humidity, keeping relative air humidity at 85%—90%.
2. Maintain indoor temperature
When growing Calathea ornata indoors, understand that it prefers a warm, humid environment. Keep the ambient temperature at 20℃—30℃, and do not place it outdoors in winter.
3. Avoid direct sunlight
Calathea ornata prefers a semi-shaded environment, so it should be grown in a shaded spot.
However, too little light will weaken the plant's growth, so every so often you can place Calathea ornata on a balcony, windowsill or similar spot to absorb scattered light.
4. Prevent and control pests and diseases
For pests and diseases, in daily care work, pay attention to maintaining air circulation and the soil's permeability and drainage. Once signs of pests or diseases appear, immediately identify the cause and treat the problem accordingly.
Can Calathea ornata be grown in water:
Calathea ornata can be grown in water.
That covers how to handle dry, curled leaves on Calathea ornata. It can be grown in water.
Appreciation and Introduction of Common Foliage Plant Pictures
Appreciation and Introduction of Common Foliage Plant Pictures, Part OneRubber Tree[Aliases] Large-leaf Green, Red Burma Tree, Red-mouth Rubber Tree, Indian Rubber Fig
[Family and Genus] Moraceae, Ficus
[Place of Origin] China
[Morphological Characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stems hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves are oblong or elliptical.
[Growing Medium] A sandy loam rich in humus is preferable.
[Watering] Simply keep the soil on the dry side or slightly moist at all times. Summer is the stage when the rubber tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when it needs the least water, so supply less.
[Fertilizing] During the vigorous growing season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. should be applied as a top dressing.
[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shady conditions. However, during cultivation it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. If conditions allow, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun.
[Ventilation] Simply keep the environment appropriately ventilated.
[Temperature] The rubber tree likes a high-temperature environment, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The ambient temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stalled growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees.
[Disease Control] The rubber tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins; in severe cases the spots join together and spread over the entire leaf. Control methods are to avoid mechanical damage to the plant, reducing opportunities for the pathogen to infect it; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; and prune rationally so the tree maintains a natural open-center form, achieving light penetration and ventilation.Asparagus Fern
Asparagus fern is also known as cloud-slice bamboo and mountain grass, belonging to the Liliaceae family and the Asparagus genus.
Origin and Habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded conditions, and does not tolerate drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus with good drainage.
Morphological Characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft, slender stems that are climbing in form. The leaves are fine, spreading horizontally, and small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, white. Berries are spherical, purple-black. The flowering period is mostly in February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.
Propagation Techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is done in March-April, with seeds soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25℃ and keep the potting soil moist; germination occurs in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted out in a greenhouse or potted up. Large 4-5 year old plants can be propagated by division in spring.
Management Techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade plant and should not be placed in too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves easily turn yellow and wither. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternately moist and dry; generally watering until the surface soil is moist is enough. In dry seasons, spray clean water on the leaves more often. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer; apply a fully rotted, dilute liquid fertilizer based mainly on nitrogen and potassium once every 10-15 days, or pour in milk residue mixed with water. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which helps ventilation and maintains a low, compact shape. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes, which have good permeability and water retention, so there is no need to drill holes in the bottom.
Ornamental Value: Asparagus fern is mainly grown in pots for its foliage; it is fresh and elegant, and displays even more of a literary atmosphere when placed in a study. The roots, stems and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used medicinally, and can be harvested year-round. Its branches and leaves are fine, upright and beautiful, with an elegant bearing in their density and greenness, making it a good accompaniment material for cut flowers, bouquets and flower baskets.Areca Palm
Family and Genus: An evergreen shrub of the Palmae family, Areca genus.
Origin and Habits: Native to the island of Madagascar in Africa, and mostly grown in pots across China. The areca palm likes a warm, humid environment, and likes light while also tolerating shade fairly well. It grows slowly in height but develops its crown relatively quickly, and naturally self-prunes well. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and dislikes alkaline soil.
Morphological Characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. Stems branch from the ground and have ring patterns; leaves spread in an arching form, up to 2 m long, with smooth yellow petioles, and pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the underside; flowers are small, borne in strings, golden yellow, flowering in March-April.
Propagation Techniques: The areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Potted plants generally use division. Division can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed shoots from a robust mother plant, cut them away from the mother plant at the roots, and transplant them into a new pot to re-establish. Newly planted specimens, because their root systems are not yet well developed, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray the leaves several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at around 20-25℃, and normal growth occurs in about 20 days.
Management Techniques: Indoor potted areca palms should use slightly acidic soil; in northern China, choose sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season; water more appropriately in dry, hot seasons, and control watering in low-temperature rainy weather. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, frequently use black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons; in summer, appropriately top-dress with nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, and in winter apply organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue. Rotate the pot regularly, frequently prune lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to tidying the crown shape. In winter, indoor temperature must be kept above 10℃. When below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer frost damage.
Ornamental Value: The areca palm is tall, with drooping, emerald-green leaves and a free and easy posture, evergreen all year round. When potted and arranged in meeting halls, halls and rooms, it looks especially majestic and displays a tropical scene. In South China, this species is a good material for park and courtyard landscaping. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is regarded as a symbol of a career “flourishing in all directions.” It is highly favored.Alocasia (Dripping Guanyin)
Dripping Guanyin is a commercial name; when the soil water content is high, water drips down from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so in many places it is called Dripping Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, Alocasia genus - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to subtropical regions, likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, and is not cold-tolerant. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China, it is grown in pots and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia does not demand much from the soil, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil uses a mixture of leaf mold, peat soil and coarse sand in a 2:2:1 ratio. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, and apply a dilute N, P, K liquid fertilizer based mainly on N once or twice a month. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded, ventilated spot, and frequently spray water around it and on the leaves to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very quickly, so during its growth, fertilizer and water must be applied in appropriate amounts to avoid the lower part of the stem becoming bare, which would affect its ornamental value.Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)
[Aliases] Money Tree, Chinese-American Kapok, Chestnut Tree, American Peanut
[Family and Genus] Bombacaceae, Pachira
[Place of Origin] Central America, from Mexico to Costa Rica
[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is best.
[Light] The money tree is not strict about light and can adapt well whether in strong or weak indoor light. However, full sun can make the leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light slows the growth of the cultivated trunk. Do not suddenly move the plant from shade to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be scorched and the edges burned, affecting its appearance.
[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm, humid climate, and 15-30 degrees is most suitable during general growth. In winter it should be moved indoors to overwinter, and the room temperature should preferably not be lower than 5 degrees.
[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept normally moist; be sure not to let it become too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, water an indoor money tree once every 3-5 days; in spring and autumn, water once every 5-8 days; in winter, watering should be restrained, keeping the potting soil slightly moist.
[Fertilizing] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature, high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the money tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened during this stage.
[Economic Value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves and a spindle-shaped trunk, and can be braided into many styles and made into uniquely styled bonsai of various postures. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted in tropical regions as an oil-bearing woody plant.Parlor Palm
[Aliases] Dwarf Palm, Dwarf Coconut, Parlor Palm, Miniature Palm
[Family and Genus] Arecoideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of Origin] Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth Habits] It likes high temperature, high humidity and a semi-shaded environment, does not tolerate strong light, and is not very cold-tolerant.
[Soil] It requires well-drained, fertile, moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring; because the roots are very fine, avoid injuring too many roots during repotting, which would affect its recovery.
[Temperature and Environment] The optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It fears direct sunlight and does not tolerate drought. Under blazing sun its leaf color fades or turns yellow, and in severe cases it causes sunscald, producing scorched leaves and black spots and losing its ornamental value.
[Fertilizing and Watering] This species grows from March to September, and should be watered promptly to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and hot, spray the leaves with water frequently to increase air humidity. During dormancy, water less, keeping the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize once or twice a month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September.
[Economic Value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, graceful and elegant form, emerald-green glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and a rich tropical flavor.King Palm
[Family and Genus] Arecoideae, Rhopalostylis
[Place of Origin] Eastern Madagascar
[Growth Habits] It grows in swamps and along riverbanks in areas with ample rain and sunlight. It likes environments with sufficient light and water, and is also fairly cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant.
[Soil] It is not strict about soil, but loose, fertile and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth.
[Temperature] It grows quickly when sunlight and water are sufficient, with an optimum growth temperature of 22-30 degrees. When potted, it can be moved indoors to overwinter in cold regions.
[Fertilizing] It likes magnesium fertilizer; top-dress once a month to keep the leaves emerald green. When magnesium is deficient, the leaves turn yellow.
[Economic Value] This species has a thick trunk and a graceful, light and elegant plant shape, beautifully green, with pinnate compound leaves resembling feathers. At the same time, because it adapts to a wide range of regions and grows well, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted for indoor display, it has a very tropical feel.Umbrella Tree
[Aliases] Duck-foot Wood, Hand Tree
[Family and Genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera
[Place of Origin] New Hebrides Islands in the South Pacific
[Growth Habits] It likes high temperature and high humidity.
[Soil] The cultivation soil is best as well-drained loam or sandy loam.
[Temperature and Environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will drop its leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, it must be kept warm. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor spot, but not in direct sunlight. If placed in a dark spot, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When growing on a balcony, shade it in spring and summer, and give it light in autumn and winter.
[Watering and Fertilizing] In spring and autumn, the potting soil should be alternately dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. It is not selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October, and it should be fertilized once every half month.
[Economic Value] The umbrella tree has oily green leaves in palmate compound form, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties are yellow and green intermixed and are an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The umbrella tree tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability, with a graceful plant shape; especially for beautifying living rooms, it can rival high-end flower varieties. The flowers of the umbrella tree are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinally.Small Flowered Fishtail Palm
[Aliases] Clustering Fishtail Palm, Wine Coconut
[Family and Genus] Palmae, Caryota
[Place of Origin] Guangdong, Guangxi and Hainan in China, Indochina Peninsula, India
[Growth Habits] A semi-heliophilous tree species, it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, highly humid and well-ventilated environments, and has relatively strong cold tolerance, being one of the more cold-tolerant palm plants.
[Soil] It has strong growth vigor and a well-developed root system, and is not strict about soil conditions. When potted, a mixture of equal parts garden soil and humus soil can be used as the medium. Generally repot once every 1-2 years; during repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of rotted organic fertilizer.
[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees, and it can endure short periods of -1 to -2 degrees; long-term exposure below this temperature will cause frost damage.
[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing season. It has fairly strong adaptability to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor spots.
[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have relatively strong drought resistance. During the growing season from March to October, water once a day; in other seasons, watering should be kept moderate, and waterlogging in the pot must be avoided to prevent root rot. During dormancy, simply keep the potting soil moist. In dry climates, spray water on the leaves to keep them deep green and glossy.
[Fertilizing] During the growing season, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once or twice a month to promote vigorous growth.
[Economic Value] This species grows in clusters with very vigorous growth, a graceful and varied plant shape, luxuriant branches and leaves, a full and layered tree form, peculiar leaf shapes and deep green leaf color, making it an excellent indoor greenery decoration plant. It is often planted in medium to large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, conference rooms and other places, looking exceptionally impressive. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into “sago” for eating. The sap of the inflorescence can be used to make sugar and brew wine.Pothos
Pothos is also called stone citrus. It is a large evergreen climbing vine of the Araceae family. Native to the Solomon Islands, in tropical regions it often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into a huge vine. The green leaves have yellow patches.
Pothos is one of the very best indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant, like emerald reliefs. The bright-colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a warm touch to the room.
It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying living rooms; placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Temperature: It likes a warm environment; the minimum overwintering temperature is 10-13℃; variegated pothos 16℃.
Light: It likes a semi-shaded environment; it can grow well in a relatively bright room; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.
Water: In spring, summer and autumn, there should be sufficient water in the potting soil; water when the top 1-2 cm of the potting soil surface dries out; in winter, when the temperature is low, reduce watering.
Air Humidity: It likes high temperature and high humidity; spray the plant frequently.
Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.
Propagation: In spring and summer, stem cuttings root easily; for making totem poles, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, as these take shape relatively quickly.Dracaena Fragrans
The scientific name of Dracaena fragrans is Dracaena fragrans, also known as Brazilian Iron Tree, Brazilian Millennium Tree, and Golden-edged Dracaena fragrans. It is a plant of the Liliaceae family and the Dracaena genus.
Origin and Habits: Dracaena fragrans is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with sufficient light, high temperature and high humidity, and also tolerates shade and dryness. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern homes.
Morphological Characteristics: Dracaena fragrans is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and an upright stem. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, with slightly blunt tips, curved into a bow shape, with bright yellow or milky white stripes; the leaf margins are bright green and have wavy undulations, with a glossy surface. Flowers are small, yellow-green, fragrant.
Propagation Techniques: Dracaena fragrans is propagated by cuttings. Use branches pruned from poorer-shaped stems as cutting material, cut into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat in a cutting bed using coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be rooted by growing in water. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water; the cut surface should be smooth, and the upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm in water, the temperature should be above 25℃, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tips with leaves root relatively quickly, rooting and potting up in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root more slowly, sometimes needing 2-3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.
Management Techniques: As long as temperature and other conditions are suitable, Dracaena fragrans can grow all year round. In summer's high temperatures, it needs appropriate shading, and in winter the room temperature must not be lower than 5℃. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13℃; if the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on the leaf tips and edges. Indoor Dracaena fragrans should be placed in a spot with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the stripes on the leaves will turn green, and the basal leaves will turn yellow, losing ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean, watering once or twice a week, and do not use too much water, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In summer's high temperatures, misting can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growing season, Dracaena fragrans should be given appropriate foliar top-dressing, spraying the leaves with nutrient solution diluted 100 times, once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, it should be pruned. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment for potted Dracaena fragrans is unsuitable, it may be harmed by red spider mites, thrips, scale insects, etc. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering and excessive fertilizing can all cause scorched leaf tips.
Ornamental Value: Dracaena fragrans is a fairly popular large indoor potted flowering plant, especially when placed in a relatively spacious living room, study or sitting room; it has elegant, simple style and a southern-country flavor. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape.Peacock Plant
Also known as variegated Calathea, it is a foliage plant of the Marantaceae family and Calathea genus. It has tubers at the base, plant height 20-30 cm, leaves oblong-elliptical, leaf surface green-white, with fairly dark brown markings along the edges of the midrib, leaves evergreen all year round with a unique metallic luster; the brown patches are like a peacock displaying its tail, with fresh, gorgeous and soft colors, and it is a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have relatively high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:
(1) Variegated Calathea. Also known as variegated arrowroot, leaves oblong-elliptical, large and thin, leaf surface green like velvet, with zebra-striped feather-like bands on both sides of the midrib, and the leaf underside purplish-red.
(2) Red-backed Arrowroot. Leaves broadly elliptical, surface green, markings indistinct, leaf underside purplish-red.
(3) Variegated Arrowroot. Also called arrow-feather patterned Calathea, leaf surface green, with pale yellow feather-like stripes on both sides of the midrib, leaf underside deep purple, flowers pale yellow.
(4) White-spotted Calathea. Plant height 50-60 cm, stems weak, leaves large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches among the green leaves.
(5) Calathea ornata. Also known as red-feather Calathea, leaves oblong-elliptical, surface pale green, with white or pink parallel double-line stripes on both sides of the midrib, very beautiful.
The peacock plant is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shaded, high-temperature and humid environments, and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30℃; above 35℃ or below 7℃, growth is poor. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves easily curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus with good drainage.
Maranta plants are mainly propagated by division, usually in spring from April to May when repotting is done. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the low temperature can easily damage the roots and affect survival and growth. When dividing, separate into clumps of 2-3 as one plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place in a semi-shaded spot for care. Before new roots emerge, control watering and do not let the soil become too wet.
The potting soil can be mixed with 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, plus a small amount of soybean cake as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm thick layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
From May to September during growth, shade the plant or place it in semi-shade, maintaining 40%-60% light transmission, and avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or the edges become scorched and curled. If placed indoors for a long time, low temperature and insufficient light will also cause weak growth and loss of the unique luster on the leaf surface. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Maranta has high humidity requirements. During routine care, place the flower pot on an inverted flower pot and frequently spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, so as to increase environmental humidity. Water before the potting soil dries out completely, otherwise the leaves easily curl and scorch at the edges due to dryness. During the peak growth season, apply a light soybean cake fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer once a week; do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. In summer during high temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month; stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During the care period, maintain good ventilation, otherwise mealybugs are likely to occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.
Calathea roseopicta is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. The leaf surface has dark green and white or light yellow feather-like markings alternating, with a unique metallic luster, resembling a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Calathea roseopicta is small and beautiful in shape, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, making it a standout among foliage plants. For potting, use a culture soil mixed evenly with leaf mold, garden soil, and a small amount of river sand. During the growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, be careful not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless cultivation can also be used; during the growth period, apply nutrient solution 1-2 times a month. Water to keep the potting soil moist. Calathea roseopicta prefers humid air, so pay attention to using methods such as spraying and sprinkling water to increase air humidity, especially in summer, and pay more attention to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to facilitate growth. For home cultivation, place it in a bright indoor spot, and never expose it to strong direct light, otherwise the leaf edges are easily scorched. If placed in a dim spot for a long time, the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, place it in a well-lit spot, and also pay attention to cold protection; room temperature should be kept above 13°C, stop fertilizing, and control watering. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so besides spraying and washing the leaf surface with cool boiled water once every 3-5 days, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, also gently wipe the leaves with clean water regularly. Calathea roseopicta is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.
Image:Image:Peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)
Also known as white sail, spathe lily, Spathiphyllum kochii, and silver spathe. Araceae, Spathiphyllum genus. Native to tropical America.
Morphological characteristics: perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm. Leaves basal, leathery, long elliptic or broadly lanceolate, with a long tip, dark green. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, veins obvious. Because the spathe curls into a spoon shape and is white like a snow lotus, shaped like clasped palms, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe resembles a white boat raising its sail on green water, in social interactions it carries the blessing meaning of smooth sailing, to encourage life progress and career success.
Spathiphyllum kochii is very similar to white Anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the spathe of the flower differ. The spathe of Spathiphyllum kochii does not turn outward but curls inward, and the ovate spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of white Anthurium.
Cultivated hybrids of the same genus include: Perfume white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green Giant white palm: also known as Green Giant, the plant is taller than Spathiphyllum kochii, the leaves are larger than those of Spathiphyllum kochii, and the parallel pinnate lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous, and it is a trendy indoor potted plant.
Habits: Prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, never expose to direct sunlight, and fears cold. Avoid heavy clay soil; sandy loam rich in humus is suitable.
Cultivation management: Spathiphyllum kochii is fairly shade-tolerant; as long as there is about 60% scattered light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be grown year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading is needed. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to bloom. Spathiphyllum kochii is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the minimum nighttime temperature should be 14-16°C, and daytime should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperature easily causes leaf drop or scorched-yellow appearance.
During the growth period, keep the potting soil moist frequently, but avoid overwatering and long-term soggy potting soil, otherwise root rot and plant yellowing are likely. In summer and dry seasons, frequently use a fine-nozzle sprayer to spray water on the leaf surface and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow, and drop. In winter, control watering, and it is suitable for the potting soil to be slightly moist.
During the peak growth season, apply dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed soybean cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks, which is beneficial both for robust plant growth and for continuous blooming. In northern winters with low temperatures, stop fertilizing.
For potting soil, use leaf mold or peat soil mixed evenly with about 1/4 river sand or perlite, plus a small amount of bone meal or soybean cake residue as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, repot once each year in early spring before a large number of new buds sprout. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant in a pot one size larger to facilitate root development and vigorous growth.
Propagation: Can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be mass-propagated by tissue culture.
1. Division propagation: Because Spathiphyllum kochii easily produces suckers, this method is mostly used for propagation. Vigorously growing plants can be divided about once every 2 years. In early spring before new buds emerge, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut the rhizome at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and should retain as many roots as possible to facilitate faster new leaf growth and a fuller plant shape.
2. Seed propagation: This method is also not difficult. Seeds can be obtained through artificial pollination in a greenhouse. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are harvested. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C; low temperatures make the seeds prone to rot.
Pests and diseases: Excessive fertilizer and freezing injury easily cause yellow leaf tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.Image:Dieffenbachia 'Marianne'
Dieffenbachia, also known as spotted dumbcane and silver-spotted dumbcane, is native to tropical America. Plant height 30-90 cm, flowers upright, internodes short, leaves long elliptic, slightly wavy at the margins, leaf surface scattered with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots, shade-tolerant, with graceful green leaf color. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozi Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Heavenly Dumbcane, etc.
The suitable growth temperature for Dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The possible growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are prone to cold damage.
Dieffenbachia likes environmental humidity of 80%. Water when the soil dries to 2 cm on the surface. During the growth period, water thoroughly and spray water on the leaf surface. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses luster. Soil moisture is best when alternating between dry and wet; water more in summer and control watering in winter.
Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and fears sun. If light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and leaf tips are easily scorched, or even large areas are burned. If light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful.
The soil should be fertile, loose, and well-drained loam. For potting soil, use a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.
[Propagation methods] Commonly propagated by cuttings, sowing, and tissue culture.
Cutting propagation: Cuttings are best taken during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut the top 7-10 cm of the stem, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut end with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity at room temperature 24-30°C. Roots form 15-25 days after insertion. After new buds sprout on the stem section, transplant into pots.
Seed propagation: Dieffenbachia must be artificially pollinated to set fruit. Seeds should be sown immediately after maturity, and the seeds need to be cleaned to avoid mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil and keep room temperature at 24-29°C. Seeds germinate 7-14 days after sowing. Transplant when seedlings are 3 cm tall.
Tissue culture propagation: At present, lateral buds and terminal buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, inoculate on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, transfer to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid. Roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.
[Cultivation management] Dieffenbachia is commonly potted in 15-20 cm pots. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, leaf drop and stem tip rot will occur. If the plant only drops leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants grow for 1-2 years, there are more suckers at the base, and division propagation can be carried out in conjunction with repotting. If the plant grows tall, leave 2-3 nodes at the base and cut off the aboveground part; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a good plant shape.
[Pest and disease control] The main damage is from bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, spray with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution for control.
[Post-harvest handling] Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful color markings. It is suitable for potted viewing, embellishing living rooms and studies, and appears very comfortable and elegant. Used to place in public places with low light, Dieffenbachia still grows normally, with green leaves and lush branches, full of vitality, especially suitable for placement in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can tolerate 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Image:Phoenix roebelenii
Phoenix roebelenii, also known as soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the palm family, Phoenix genus.
Phoenix roebelenii is an evergreen shrub with a short thick stem, usually solitary, sometimes clustered, plant height 1-3 m. Leaves pinnate, initially upright, slightly curved and drooping after growing a little; there are long spines on both sides of the base of the petiole, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; leaflets lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, drooping in an arc. Spadix axillary, 20-50 cm long, dioecious. Fruit about 1.5 cm long, initially light green, jujube red when mature.
Phoenix roebelenii is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It prefers a high-temperature, high-humidity tropical climate, likes light and is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, barren-tolerant, and prefers well-drained, fertile sandy loam. It has relatively strong cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.
Phoenix roebelenii is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures from October to November; after harvest, sow immediately or sow in the following spring. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the substrate moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 5-10 cm, apply dilute liquid fertilizer, then transplant into separate pots and strengthen water and fertilizer management.
For potting Phoenix roebelenii, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand mixed together as the substrate, and add a small amount of base fertilizer when planting. It has strong adaptability, and cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist; when the air is dry, spray the plant once a day to increase the environmental air humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September when sunlight is strong, shade should be provided (50% shading is suitable) to prevent leaves from turning yellow; in other seasons, give relatively sufficient light to promote robust plant growth. Phoenix roebelenii is prone to mealybugs when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If mealybugs are found, control should be carried out; generally, spray with omethoate at 800 times dilution; at the same time, improve ventilation and air permeability.
Phoenix roebelenii has branches and leaves arching and drooping like an umbrella, with evenly distributed, green and glossy leaves. It is an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to arrange interiors can fill them with a tropical mood. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies, and other places, appearing elegant and generous; large plants in pots are often used to decorate conference venues, halls, and other places, appearing solemn and majestic.
Image:Cast iron plant
Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior
English name: Common Aspidistra
Aliases: spider egg-embracing (Aspidistra), ruo leaf (Indocalamus leaf)
Family name: Liliaceae
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen herb with rhizomes. Leaves elliptic-lanceolate, dark green, with slightly wavy margins. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Prefers shade and cannot tolerate strong light; prefers warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant; prefers moisture, and sandy loam that is well-drained and fertile is suitable.Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'
Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silver Queen
Aliases: Silver Queen dumbcane, Silver Queen Chinese evergreen, Silver Queen Aglaonema
Botanical characteristics: > A perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm, stem upright and unbranched, internodes obvious. Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath shape, leaves narrow and long, light green, leaf surface with gray-green stripes, relatively large area.
Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' is famous for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.
This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.
Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine
“Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' can absorb printer radiation.”Snake plant
Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Sansevieria genus.
The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves clustered, fleshy linear-lanceolate, hard leathery, upright, base slightly grooved; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating light green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, elegant fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:
Golden-edged snake plant: shape similar to snake plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.
Short-spiked snake plant: a dwarf variety, plant height about 10-20 cm, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, leaves short and wide, growing in swirling, overlapping manner.
Onion-leaf snake plant: also called cylindrical-leaf snake plant. Leaves cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom throughout the leaf, slightly pointed and thinner at the tip, leaf surface with longitudinal shallow groove-like indentations, each leaf growing independently.
Snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated throughout China. It has strong adaptability, prefers warm and humid conditions, is drought-tolerant, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. It has low soil requirements, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. After the temperature rises each spring, carry out division in conjunction with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then plant them separately in new culture soil. The propagation material for cuttings is leaves (that is, leaf cuttings), which can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves horizontally into 7-8 cm long segments as a cutting, let them dry slightly, then insert into river sand. When taking cuttings, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but it should not be too wet, so as to avoid rot. In about one month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut end, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings from golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edge and variegation disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.
For potting snake plant, use equal parts leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the substrate. It grows well under sufficient light; except in midsummer when direct sunlight must be avoided, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too dark indoor spot for too long, the leaves will become dull and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not suddenly be moved directly into sunlight; it should first be moved to a brighter spot and allowed to adapt before receiving sunlight, so as to avoid leaf scorch. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dryness over moisture. Usually wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and bright. In spring when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more and keep the potting soil moist; in summer during high temperatures, also keep the potting soil moist frequently; after late autumn, control watering, and keep the potting soil relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It has low fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.
Snake plant leaves are firm and upright, and the leaf surface has tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating gray-white and dark green. Its posture is resolute, peculiar, and interesting; it has many varieties, with relatively large variations in plant shape and leaf color, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating studies, living rooms, offices, and other places, and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time.Lucky bamboo
Lucky bamboo, also known as Dracaena sanderiana, is a foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Dracaena genus. Lucky bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no rhizome underground, and roots are yellow-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: Golden-edged lucky bamboo: leaf margins golden yellow, center green. It prefers high-temperature and high-humidity environments, has low light requirements, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. Suitable for well-drained sandy loam. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Lucky bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly taken in conjunction with shaping and pruning. As lucky bamboo grows taller over many years, the leaves at the base of the stem often drop and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growing season, the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm segments as cuttings, inserted into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts form in 1-2 weeks.
For potting lucky bamboo, use equal parts leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand mixed together, or use coconut coir and leaf mold plus a small amount of base fertilizer as culture soil. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist frequently and often spray water on the leaf surface to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; if it is too dry, the leaf tips will dry up; in winter, the potting soil should not be too wet, but the leaf surface should still be sprayed frequently, and at the same time pay attention to cold protection to avoid leaves turning yellow, shrinking, or even dropping. During the vigorous growth period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It has low light requirements and is suitable for growing under bright scattered light; avoid direct sunlight; if exposed to strong sunlight or dryness, the leaf surface will become rough and scorched, lacking luster, reducing ornamental value.Anthurium
Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anthurium, red spathe.
Anthurium family and genus: Araceae, Anthurium genus.
Anthurium origin and distribution:
Anthurium is native to tropical regions of the Americas and prefers a warm and humid climate. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight; it is not cold-tolerant; it likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkaline conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature, and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In frost-free hot areas of Yunnan, good cut flowers and pot flowers have also been cultivated using simple shade houses. With the improvement of economic levels, Anthurium has good application prospects as a high-grade flower. Anthurium flowers are unique, the spathe is bright and gorgeous, rich in color and highly variable, and the flowering period is long, blooming continuously throughout the four seasons; vase life is very long, water culture can last up to 1 month, and a single potted flower can last 4-6 months. The suitable growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
Anthurium morphological characteristics:
It is a perennial herb of Araceae, plant height 30-70 cm, leaves emerging from the short stem, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, petioles hard and slender, 30-40 cm long and about 10 cm wide. Flowers terminal, about 50 cm long, spathe heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide, surface wavy and wrinkled, spathe with bright waxy luster, spadix cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, at first glance looking like an artificial flower, flower shape peculiar and beautiful, cut flower life more than 30 days, an advanced flower material for flower arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach red, vermilion, white, red with green stripes, green, orange, etc., long flowering period, capable of blooming throughout the year. Perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. Plant height can reach 1 m, internodes short. Leaves emerging from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerging from leaf axils, spathe upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, ones inlaid with white-green, multicolored ones, and those with delicate red edges, extremely variable. Spadix sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers bisexual, perianth with four lobes, stamens 4, ovary 2-loculed, each locule with 1-2 ovules. Small berry containing 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today; because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, externally waxy, and long-lasting, it has become an important flower arrangement decoration for high-grade occasions.
Anthurium ecological habits:
It prefers an environment with high air humidity and unobstructed drainage, and likes shade, warmth, and heat. In an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C, it can bloom and fruit year-round; above 35°C it will suffer sunscald, below 14°C growth will be affected, and sustained low temperatures below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and Ec value of 1.2 is suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless cultivation is best.
Anthurium propagation and cultivation
The most suitable growth temperature for Anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, the minimum temperature is 14°C, and below 10°C there is a possibility of cold damage at any time. The most suitable relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful Anthurium cultivation. Therefore, leaf surface spraying should be carried out many times throughout the year. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light. Throughout the year, it should be cultivated in an appropriately shaded environment, that is, choose a greenhouse with protective facilities. In spring, summer, and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature. If the leaf temperature is too high, symptoms such as scorch, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds, and slower leaf growth will appear.
1. Anthurium propagation: usually by division; at present, tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring, the suckers at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; for tissue culture, young leaves are mostly used as explants, and through callus induction, clustered buds are differentiated, then roots are induced to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and after planting, flowering occurs in 2-3 years.
2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly cultivated in greenhouses for cut flowers, and can also be potted for viewing. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless cultivation is mostly used, and the cultivation substrate is preferably a mixture of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 peat. Usually planted from January to May, when seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall. Make ridges 30 cm high, plant on the ridges, with spacing of 30×40 cm, use drip irrigation, and apply nutrient solution twice a week. During the growth period, pay attention to temperature, humidity, and light regulation. The suitable temperature is 27-28°C. In summer during high temperatures, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter keep nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust light to 20000-25000 lux, and provide shading when too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf scorch. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3; cut from the base of the peduncle. Insert into water immediately after harvesting. When transportation is needed, fix as single stems and place flat in layers in boxes. Anthurium lasts long in water; when kept in water, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the peduncle to keep the cut fresh for better water absorption. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh; below 7°C cold damage occurs. When potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure and an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot when there are 5-6 leaves; use small pots for small seedlings and gradually move to larger pots as they grow. Place more broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air release. Repot once every 1-2 years. Watering is best done by spraying the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growth period, apply dilute alum fertilizer water once a week.
Anthurium pest and disease control
The main pests of Anthurium are red spider mites and mealybugs; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution respectively.
Because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, and year-round blooming, Anthurium is welcomed by people both as a cut flower and as a potted ornamental flower. The spathe of Anthurium used as a cut flower is unusually bright red with waxy shine, and vase life is long. When potted for viewing, in spring when it blooms, green leaves paired with bright red spathes are very beautiful; when there are flowers, enjoy the flowers; when there are no flowers, enjoy the leaves. It is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms, and conference rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, Anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used for cut flowers. In recent years, due to the continuous breeding of new multi-flowered varieties.Philodendron 'Green Emerald'
Philodendron 'Green Emerald', also known as long heart-leaf philodendron and green emerald, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the Araceae family, Philodendron genus.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is a climbing species, with thick stems and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, abruptly pointed at the tip, deeply heart-shaped at the base, green, entire, glossy. Young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Related excellent varieties in the same genus include:
Philodendron 'Red Emerald': also known as red emerald, leaves and stems are dark red.
Red-petiole philodendron: petioles, leaf backs, and young new growth are often dark red.
Violin-leaf philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, leaves violin-shaped, 5-lobed, basal lobes broad, ear-shaped, narrow in the middle, tip long elliptic, deep green, glossy.
Heart-leaf philodendron: also known as sharp heart climbing philodendron and round-leaf philodendron, stems and leaves green, leaves heart-shaped.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' and most others are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They prefer warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The suitable growth temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is mostly propagated by cuttings and roots easily in high-temperature seasons. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, and keep the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they can root and be potted.
The potting substrate for Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is best a loam rich in humus and well-drained. Generally it can be prepared with 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil, and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a support pole can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes a high-temperature and high-humidity environment, and the potting soil must be kept moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed frequently; but avoid water accumulation in the potting soil, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally water once a day in spring and summer, once every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter, reduce watering, but do not let the potting soil become completely dry. During the growing season, pay attention to topdressing frequently, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, growth slows or stops, so fertilizing should be stopped. It likes bright light and avoids strong direct sunlight. Generally during the growing season, 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure a dark indoor environment, although too weak light for a long time easily causes leggy growth, longer internodes, and thin weak growth, which is not good for viewing.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' has broad, large, deep green leaves. Grown as a climber, it can form a green rounded shape, with a neat and robust plant form, full of tropical style. It has strong shade tolerance and is extremely suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often grown in medium and large sizes and placed in halls, conference rooms, offices, and other places, appearing extremely spectacular.Spider plant
Spider plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Chlorophytum genus. Spider plant is a perennial herb with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The greatest feature of spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce stolons, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the stolons. Flower scapes slender, longer than the leaves, curved and drooping; flowers white, several per cluster, scattered sparsely on the inflorescence axis. Flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, horticultural varieties of spider plant besides the pure green-leaf type include large-leaf spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and golden-edged spider plant. It prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It has strong adaptability, is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not choosy about soil, and grows better in loose sandy loam. It has low light requirements; generally it is suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and also tolerates weak light. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Spider plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low and unsuitable for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, during spring repotting divide the dense potted seedlings into two to several clumps and pot them separately as new plants. Spider plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the stolons. During the growing season, cut off the small plantlets on the stolons, plant them in culture soil or water, and after the small plantlets grow roots, transplant them into pots.
For potting spider plant, commonly use equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil, and river sand mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer as the substrate. Repot once every 2-3 years and remake the culture soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and strong drought resistance, but from March to September during the vigorous growth period the water requirement is relatively large, so it needs frequent watering and spraying to increase humidity; after autumn gradually reduce watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. The fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen fertilizer, but golden-centered and golden-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become less obvious. Spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment. If the placement spot has too strong or insufficient light, the leaves easily become pale green or yellow-green, lacking vitality and losing their proper ornamental value, or even drying up and dying; if exposed to direct sunlight and dry air, spider plant is most easily scorched, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. Spider plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil accumulates water and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, so attention should be paid to spraying chemicals for control.
Spider plant has stems and leaves like orchids, evergreen throughout the four seasons, and when suspended indoors can be called an “aerial flower.” The stolons it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots that hang down along the pot, very elegant. Spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier.” It can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide, and other volatile gases, purifying the room air and benefiting human health. However, spider plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The methods of prevention and control should start from the causes: Spider plant has more than 200 species, and common ones include golden-edged and silver-edged spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and entire-edged spider plant. Spider plant is native to South Africa, South America, and tropical regions of Asia. It prefers warmth, semi-shade, and humidity, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or if winter frost is severe, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken as follows: (1) Frequently pay attention to watering and spraying to keep the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves, and is suspended in the air or placed in a ventilated spot on a balcony, its water requirement is relatively large. Therefore, it is necessary to frequently water and spray the potting soil, leaf surface, and around the pot. Generally in summer and autumn, water and spray 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days, less in winter and slightly more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil remain moist and the air humid. At the same time, the spider plant leaves should also be cleaned of dust in time to keep them fresh and enhance ornamental appeal. (2) Place the flower pot in a semi-shaded spot to prevent strong light exposure. Although spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are also easily withered. (3) Spider plant is suitable for a large pot with few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and air permeability. For a medium-sized flower pot, generally planting 2-3 plants is suitable. If there are too many plants, the water requirement is also greater; if the pot is small and the soil water supply is insufficient, the leaves are also easily withered. Attention should also be paid to frequently cutting off withered and declining leaves. It can also be combined with repotting in spring or autumn each year, moving smaller pots into larger pots for planting, and at the same time removing excess branches and leaves.Golden barrel cactus
Golden barrel cactus, also known as yellow-spined golden barrel, is the most charming cactus ball species in the Cactaceae family, Echinocactus genus. There are also several main varieties in cultivation, such as white-spined golden barrel, wild-spined golden barrel, short-spined golden barrel, golden barrel variegata, and golden barrel cristata.
Origin and habits: Golden barrel cactus is native to desert regions of Mexico, and is now introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. Golden barrel cactus prefers sufficient sunlight, and mostly likes fertile sandy loam with good water permeability. During the hot high-temperature period in summer, appropriate shading should be provided to prevent the ball from being scorched by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: Golden barrel cactus has a spherical stem, the ball is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; flowers yellow, terminal in the wool cluster, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; fruit covered with scales and wool, seeds black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: Golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by offset grafting. 1. Sowing method: seeds collected in the same year have a high germination rate. Sow from May to September. After germination, in 30-40 days the seedling ball has reached the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and can be transplanted or grafted onto rootstock to accelerate growth. 2. Offset grafting method: graft seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to accelerate growth. When the scion grows to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, dried at the wound, and then used for cutting propagation in pots. In a good environment with fertile soil and air circulation, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, seedlings or grafted offsets should be placed in semi-shade and avoid direct sunlight; if the ball does not shrink after 7-10 days, it has survived.
Management techniques: Golden barrel cactus prefers sandy loam containing lime, which can be prepared by mixing equal amounts of coarse sand, loam, leaf mold, and a small amount of old wall ash. Once a year, repot and change the soil and cut off old roots. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place it in a ventilated spot to dry for 4-5 days so the cut dries; the new culture soil used for repotting should use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash, and a small amount of animal bone meal, etc., and mix evenly; the pot should be disinfected by sunlight exposure, steaming, and spraying chemicals, etc., to prevent ball rot.
Golden barrel cactus prefers sufficient sunlight, but in summer it should be semi-shaded. When the temperature reaches above 35°C, shade should be provided around noon to avoid strong sunlight scorching the ball. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in sunlight to encourage more flower buds and avoid excessive shading, which makes the ball elongate and reduces ornamental value. Keep the overwintering temperature at 8-10°C and keep the potting soil dry. If the temperature is too low, yellow spots will appear on the ball. In summer, protect it from rain.
Summer is the peak growth season for golden barrel cactus, and the water requirement increases. If drought occurs, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening. Never water with very cold water at hot noon, as it easily causes “chilling” and disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, spray a little water to moisten the pot surface only; do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted part, so as to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growth period, apply dilute fertilizer liquid containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other components 1-2 times every half month, used together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and the concentration appropriate.
Golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and has strong disease resistance, but in summer due to factors such as humidity, heat, and poor ventilation, it is susceptible to pests and diseases such as red spider mites, mealybugs, and whiteflies, and control should be strengthened. For damage from pests and diseases such as red spider mites, mealybugs, and whiteflies, control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, spray with 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution for control. When mealybugs, whiteflies, and other pests are found causing damage, they can be manually wiped off.
Ornamental value: Golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. Adult large golden barrel cacti have abundant flowers and robust balls, resplendent in gold and jade, with very high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in volume and occupies little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban household greening.Safe tree (Cinnamon)
Safe tree is an elegant name for cinnamon-type plants in the Lauraceae family, Cinnamomum genus. It is an evergreen small tree, with green branchlets, smooth and without down, leaves opposite or nearly opposite, ovate-long elliptic, pointed at the tip, thick leathery, leaves about 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide, the upper side bright green with metallic luster, the leaf back gray-green to yellow-green, with obvious triplinerved veins, and it is a relatively popular foliage plant.
It prefers a warm, humid, and sunny environment, is relatively shade-tolerant, likes a warm, hot, frost-free, foggy, and high-humidity environment, and is not tolerant of drought, severe cold, or saline-alkaline conditions. For cultivation, use loose, fertile, well-drained acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. Its suitable growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C, and it is not tolerant of low temperatures below 5°C. It should be moved indoors before Frost's Descent and moved out after Pure Brightness. Its light requirement is that from mid-May to mid-October, 40%-50% shading should be provided; too strong light easily causes leaf scorch, but long-term placement indoors in a well-lit spot can also grow well. During the growing season, always keep the potting soil moist, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface and environment so that the relative air humidity in the environment is maintained at about 80%. In northern regions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder to irrigation water, or drip in a small amount of edible vinegar, to increase the acidity of the water quality and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants during the growing season, it is suitable to loosen the soil once a month, always keeping its root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sprouts new leaves, apply dilute soybean cake fertilizer water once a month, and after autumn apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2 times in succession to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer, and heavy fertilizer, and especially prohibit high-concentration chemical fertilizer solution, otherwise it very easily causes fertilizer damage and root scorch, leading to yellowing and scorched leaves and plant death.
Under indoor conditions with poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and insufficient light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. Its symptoms are as follows: it mostly occurs on new leaves, starting with oval yellow-brown spots on the leaf surface, which then continuously expand, and more small black dots appear within the spots on the upper side of the leaf, while the underside of the spots is purple; after the entire leaf turns yellow, it wilts and falls off. Control method: if a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and burn them promptly. In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of spots on household potted plants, applying Dakning cream can inhibit the expansion of the spots.
Yellowing and falling of leaves may be caused by the following aspects: First, it may be a newly potted plant bought back from the south, with the root system severely damaged, compounded by long-distance transport and cold weather. Second, the indoor temperature in winter is below 5°C, causing yellowing and leaf drop due to cold damage. Third, excessive watering leads to root rot, causing the plant to yellow and drop leaves. Fourth, the water quality is alkaline, causing the leaves to yellow slowly. Fifth, improper fertilization, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the nutrient fibrous roots to lose water, shrink, and die. For a plant with yellowing and falling leaves, check its root system; if part of the roots have already rotted, cut off the rotted part and replant it in clean, fresh culture soil. Around the cut near the root system, surround it with a ring of moist fine sand, which can promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. For dead branches and leaves, cut them all off. After repotting, spray more water and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, it can be moved outdoors, and only after new leaves grow out can normal fertilization be resumed.Zebra Dieffenbachia
Zebra Dieffenbachia, also called giant dumb cane and dumb sugarcane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family. Its stem is cylindrical and fleshy, and the stem often has white ring markings, which are traces left after the leaves fall off. The leaves of zebra Dieffenbachia are long oval, and on both sides of the green main vein, irregular white or pale yellow spots and stripes are scattered across the leaf surface, making it look especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Zebra Dieffenbachia is native to Colombia. It prefers a warm and humid climate. The optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, a mixture of 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand can be used. Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia likes a semi-shaded environment and avoids direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors all year round. It is tolerant of waterlogging, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray so that water continuously seeps into the potting soil from the small holes at the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frozen badly, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If it is kept indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vigor recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on its growth condition, once or twice a month, mostly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer, to promote lush green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used excessively.
Its “flower” is the typical spathe and spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or does not set seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, and the main methods are tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut the old stem into 10 to 15 cm small sections in spring, insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they take root and grow leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, the stem can be cut into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, left to dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, and then planted directly in a pot; kept moist, it will quickly take root and grow leaves. A stem section with leaves can also be cut and inserted into a transparent glass water bottle, fixed with white building-decoration stone, and in about half a month its pure white jade-like fibrous roots can be seen growing, so both leaves and roots can be enjoyed. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia, which also have certain ornamental value, but this species is the largest; its leaves are thick and hard, with elegant and beautiful markings and luster, and the plant is tall with thick stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant.Maidenhair Fern
Maidenhair fern: also called wire grass and iron-line grass, it is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the Adiantaceae family.
Maidenhair fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome grows horizontally and is densely covered with brown scales. The leaf stalk is slender and hard, resembling iron wire, hence the name maidenhair fern. Its ecological habit is to prefer warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments.
Maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before new buds sprout, in combination with repotting. Knock the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old culture soil, cut the rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of maidenhair fern mature, they scatter in a warm and humid environment and reproduce and grow on their own; when they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.
Maidenhair fern prefers loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the culture soil can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern prefers bright diffused light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is 5°C.Dragon Tree (Dracaena)
Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco), is a species in the genus Dracaena, family Agavaceae.
Dragon Tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island. After artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade-loving plant suitable for indoor display.
Morphological characteristics: evergreen tree. The plant height can reach 10 m, slightly branched. The leaves are mostly densely borne on a flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long and 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. Panicle, flowers white with green. What is commonly seen in cultivation is a stemless or short-stemmed young foliage tree.
Key points for propagation and cultivation: can be propagated by cuttings, layering, and sowing. For cuttings in early spring, use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut them into 5 cm to 10 cm sections, place them flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, keep the temperature at 25°C to 30°C and the air relatively humid, and they can take root in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade shed is needed for shading. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam, and sand.
Application value: Dracaena is both a foliage ornamental flower and a flowering ornamental flower. It is suitable as background material for decorating the main rostrum of large conference venues and is extremely spectacular. The leaf bases, stems, and branches can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has hemostatic effects.Broadleaf Lady Palm
[Aliases] Guanyin bamboo palm bamboo
[Family and genus] Palmae, Rhapis
[Place of origin] Southeastern, southern, and southwestern China Japan
[Growth habits] Prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environment; drought-tolerant; afraid of strong sunlight; the optimum growth temperature is 25-30 degrees; the nighttime temperature in winter is best not lower than 5 degrees, but it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees; avoid prolonged cold wind, frost, and snow; generally, potted plants can overwinter safely indoors.
[Soil] Prefers fertile and well-drained sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus.
[Temperature and environment] Prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and ventilated environment. It grows well in a semi-shaded environment. In summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight, preferably with about 70% shading. In summer especially, avoid scorching sun exposure, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and the plant will grow slowly. In winter and spring, more light is better.
[Water and fertilizer] From May to September, during the peak growth period, water more to keep the soil moist; better moist than dry, but do not let water accumulate, otherwise root rot is easy. During high-temperature periods, water should also be frequently sprayed on the leaves and ground to increase air humidity. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote a deep green and verdant leaf color. Stop fertilizing in winter.
[Pest and disease control] In a well-ventilated environment, there are few pests and diseases. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids are likely to occur. If only a small number occur, manually scrape them off promptly, pay attention to ventilation and air permeability, and prune dead branches and fallen leaves in time.
[Economic value] This species is a traditional excellent foliage plant in China. Its plant shape is compact and elegant, its leaf shape is delicate, and it has a rich tropical charm as well as the unrestrained elegance of bamboo. It is suitable for potted display and appreciation in homes, offices, conference rooms, entrance halls, and so on.Lacy Tree Philodendron
English name: Lacy tree philodendron
Family and genus: Araceae, Philodendron
Scientific name: Philodenron selloum Koch
Lacy tree philodendron was originally named feather-split Philodendron (feather-split monstera), native to Brazil, Paraguay, and other places. It is a perennial herb. The plant height can reach 1 m, and the stem is thick and upright, with a diameter of up to 10 cm. The stem has obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, with petioles about 40-50 cm long. The leaf blade is fresh and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but generally only about half that size in pots. The entire leaf is deeply pinnatifid and leathery. The leaves of seedling juvenile stages are thinner and triangular, and as growth proceeds the leaves gradually become larger, with more and deeper pinnatifid incisions. Lacy tree philodendron prefers a high-temperature and high-humidity environment. It is not strict about light, is not cold-tolerant, and is shade-tolerant. It can be grown in pots anywhere indoors where the light is not too weak. It prefers fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September. Cut a robust stem with 2-3 nodes and insert it directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep it moist, and it can take root in about 20 days. During the growing period, keep the potting soil moist; especially in summer, it must not lack water, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface. Fertilize once a month. The plant grows rapidly, so it needs repotting every spring. In winter, growth slows down, so fertilization should be stopped and water reduced. Household cultivation should be renewed after 3-4 years. Common problems include leaf spot disease and scale insect damage. For leaf spot disease, spray 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution for control; for scale insects, spray 50% at 1000 times dilution to kill them. Lacy tree philodendron has a unique leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall display, and especially suitable for decorating music tea lounges and hotel rest rooms. A related species in the same genus is red-stem philodendron.Jade Plant, also known as jade tree and stonecrop tree, etc., is a plant of the family Crassulaceae and genus Crassula.
Native to South Africa, now cultivated in various places. Evergreen small shrub. Stem cylindrical, gray-green, jointed. Leaves opposite, flat, fleshy, elliptical, entire, apex slightly pointed, base rounded and clasping the stem. Flowers red. Prefers warmth and dryness, and likes sufficient sunlight and ventilation. Prefers loose sandy culture soil. Avoid overly wet soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before insertion, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.
The cultivation and management of the jade plant are simple and extensive, but to achieve a full and robust plant shape and have it bloom all over the tree as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, the jade plant grows relatively fast, so it must be repotted every spring, with fertile soil added, and placed in a sunny place for care. Apply dilute fertilizer water once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. In midsummer high temperatures, the jade plant is in a semi-dormant state and is afraid that strong light will scorch the leaves, so shading care should be done at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent the leaves from turning yellow and falling off. If heavy rain continues, avoid being washed by torrential rain, so as to prevent water accumulation at the roots causing root rot and death. From August to October, when autumn arrives and it turns cooler, the jade plant begins to resume growth, so lighting should be strengthened again, shade equipment removed, and at this time fertilization and watering should in principle be the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse and place it in a sunny indoor spot, stop fertilizing, and control watering, basically watering once every half a month, with the amount of water being one-half of that in summer. The jade plant is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be kept above 7°C. Prune and shape it once a year, in spring when repotting or in late autumn when moving it into the greenhouse, so that the plant shape remains simple and elegant all year round.
The jade plant has relatively few pests and diseases, but sometimes suffers from anthracnose and leaf spot disease, which can be controlled by spraying 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insect damage. Once pests are found, they should be manually washed off immediately. When the damage is severe, 40% omethoate emulsion at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed for control.
In the jade plant, the leaves contain euphol, and when the human body comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it can cause skin redness, swelling, and pain. If it splashes into the eyes, it can also lead to blindness.
Although the jade plant is not astonishing in appearance, because this succulent plant is robust, drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and full of branches and leaves, with leaves as green as emerald all year round, and because the swollen nodes on its stem have the posture of an ancient tree stump, potted jade plants are now relatively commonly seen on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.
Although the jade plant is easy to propagate, easy to plant, and easy to manage, it is still common to see jade plants on some residents' balconies looking elegant in spring, summer, and autumn, but once winter passes they become wilted and dull, and may even become a “bare chicken.” This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of the jade plant and ignore its fragile side. After entering severe cold, they still place it on an open balcony and let it suffer from cold wind and freezing, causing the jade plant to be damaged by freezing. After freezing damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off. In severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering potted jade plants on balconies is very important, and the following aspects should be mainly addressed:
1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter begins, move the jade plant to an indoor place where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained for warmth. On warmer days, around noon, the jade plant can be moved to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and at night it should still be moved indoors.
2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be mainly slightly dry, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaf surface at appropriate times to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move it into a warm shed for insulation. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, a plastic film cover can also be used, but attention should be paid to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, uncover it in time for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.
4. If the jade plant has already suffered freezing damage due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frozen-dead leaves and tender branches are removed, the plump main stem is preserved, and fertilizer is appropriately applied the following spring, the main stem can still sprout new branches and new leaves. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect jade plant again.Dracaena fragrans
Latin name: Dracaena
The leaves of Dracaena fragrans are broad and linear, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can reach 80 cm long. It is suitable for high-temperature and high-humidity environments. It can grow in both sufficient light and shade. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is relatively suitable, and it must not be lower than 5°C. It is evergreen all year round, highly adaptable, easy to manage, slow-growing, and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for indoors and outdoors, especially indoors.
The care method for Dracaena fragrans is the same as that for Dragon Tree (Dracaena).Zamioculcas zamiifolia
A foliage plant of the Araceae family and genus Zamioculcas, native to tropical Africa. It is an evergreen perennial with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground. Adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy, with short petiolules, firm and deep green, with a bright luster, and high ornamental value. It is suitable for growth under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, known as the “king of shade tolerance.” It is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. Zamioculcas zamiifolia has large tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers. The compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. Zamioculcas zamiifolia seedlings do not grow fast, so they can be grown in small or medium pots for ornament, and are also suitable for large combined plantings.
Ecological habits
Zamioculcas zamiifolia is native to the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It likes warm, hot, slightly dry, semi-shaded environments with small annual temperature fluctuations. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but afraid of cold, avoids strong direct sunlight, and fears heavy clay soil and water accumulation in the pot. If the potting soil has poor permeability, it can easily cause its tubers to rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter, acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick compound leaves, new leaves will soon emerge from the top of the tuber.
Propagation techniques
Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, take the large Zamioculcas zamiifolia plant out of the pot, shake off most of the old soil, pull it apart from the weak junction of the tubers, smear sulfur powder or plant ash on the wound, and pot it separately. Note that when planting, do not bury it too deep; burying the top of the tuber 1.5-2 cm below the soil is sufficient. In addition, based on the characteristic that Zamioculcas zamiifolia tubers carry latent buds, a large single tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2-3 latent buds. After the wounds have dried, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot them.
Cuttings: The cuttings can use a single small leaf, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaflets, or a separate section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings with leaf rachis and leaflets root faster, have a higher sprouting rate, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite. After 10-14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem can form at the leaf base. After 2-3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling formation rate is not high. If leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaflets is used as cuttings, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a substrate mixed with peat soil, perlite, and river sand in a 3:1:1 ratio. The insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3-1/2 of the length of the cutting, leaving only the leaves outside the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place it in a shaded place, maintain an environmental temperature of 25°C-27°C, and according to the degree of dryness and moisture of the substrate, spray the leaf surface 1-2 times a day, keeping the substrate slightly moist, but it must not be overly moist, otherwise the cuttings will rot and the cutting will fail. When the cuttings have formed a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a spherical small tuber, and the tuber gradually enlarges. Some relatively tender cutting leaves may wither and yellow after potting due to high temperature or poor water management and die, but the tuber can survive. Old mature leaves and cuttings with total leaf stalks can also remain green and vigorous. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but the growth vigor is weak and growth is slow. The next year the tubers will grow robust new buds and grow normally.
Cultivation management
Temperature: The optimum growth temperature is 20-32°C. Whether potted or field planted, it requires small annual temperature fluctuations. Commercial cultivation is best carried out in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the plant grows poorly, so measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water around the environment should be taken to cool it down, creating a suitable environment with a suitable ambient temperature that is also relatively dry and refreshing. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C. If the room temperature is below 5°C, it is easy to cause the plant to suffer cold damage and then seriously endanger its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, it should be moved in time to a brightly lit indoor place. Throughout the overwintering period, the temperature should be kept between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.
Light: Zamioculcas zamiifolia likes light and also has strong shade tolerance, so a sunny environment with a certain degree of shade should be created for it. It avoids strong direct light, and especially should avoid the scorching sun after long rain and first clearing in late spring and early summer, as well as the unobstructed strong light baking for 5-6 hours around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. In commercial cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50-70% shading, but it must not be too dark, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves will become slender, the leaf color will turn yellow and listless, and the spacing between leaflets will be sparse, thus affecting the compact and beautiful shape of the plant. For potted plants moved into a greenhouse in winter, supplementary lighting should be provided. Keep the potting soil moisture on the dry side, and the plant can remain disease-free year-round. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape remains good.
Water: To care well for potted Zamioculcas zamiifolia, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both moist and on the dry side. In commercial cultivation, for plants placed in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, the plant should be sprayed with water once a day. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is better to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasionally excessive watering and fertilizing will not necessarily cause root rot. In winter, attention should be paid to spraying water on the leaf surface and the surrounding environment so that the relative air humidity reaches above 50%. After mid-autumn, watering should be reduced, or spraying water can replace watering, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely pass the winter. In addition, in winter special attention should be paid to the fact that the potting soil must not be overly moist; it is better to keep it on the dry side, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil is more likely to cause root rot and even the death of the whole plant.
Soil: Because of the special climatic conditions of its place of origin, Zamioculcas zamiifolia has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The cultivation substrate is mostly a mixture of peat, coarse sand or washed coal cinders, and a small amount of garden soil, with its pH adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are large, its root system is well developed, and its pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in time to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation substrate well aerated, so as to create a root environment with good air permeability and drainage. During the plum rain season, inspect frequently; if water accumulation is found in the pot, repot and change the soil in time.
Fertilizer: Zamioculcas zamiifolia relatively likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation substrate, during the growing season it can be watered with 2-3 times a month with a mixed solution of 02.% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, or a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) at a concentration of 200-250 ppm combined with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, to help it pass the winter safely, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution should be applied continuously 2-3 times to promote the hardening and filling of the young leaf rachis and newly sprouted leaves. After the temperature drops below 15°C, all forms of topdressing should be stopped to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low-temperature conditions.
Pest and disease control
Freezing damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, it is easy to cause the plant's tender leaves to fall over due to freezing cold, and in severe cases it can cause tuber rot, making it very difficult to restore vitality.
Control method: In commercial cultivation, during the overwintering period the greenhouse temperature should be maintained not lower than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept in a slightly dry state.
Sunscald: In hot summer, or in clear weather after long rain and first clearing, or for potted plants that have been kept indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight can easily cause their plump tender leaves to be scorched, causing part of the leaves to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.
Brown spot disease: This disease occurs mostly on leaves. The spots are nearly round, gray-brown to yellow-brown, with a slightly darker edge. This disease is prone to occur under conditions of high temperature, high humidity, and poor ventilation. Control method: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and destroy them in time. In the early stage of the disease, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 600 times dilution or 40% chlorothalonil suspension at 500 times dilution, spraying the leaves once every 10 days, for 3-4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.
Control method: After summer begins, move the plant in time to a semi-shaded environment. In late spring and early summer after long rain and first clearing, shade the potted plant early.
Scale insects: In an environment with poor ventilation and insufficient light, the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia are susceptible to the piercing and sucking damage of scale insects.
Control method: In commercial cultivation, during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray 20% buprofezin wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, which has a good insecticidal effect.
Radermachera sinica
Generally refers to “Radermachera sinica” of the Bignoniaceae family and genus Radermachera.
Radermachera sinica, also called chili tree and bone-setting umbrella, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, of the Bignoniaceae family and genus Radermachera. From the collected pictures, “Radermachera sinica” mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. Young branches have mucus. Leaves are 1- to 3-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets entire and stalked. Bark is light gray, deeply and longitudinally fissured. Capsules are long and strip-shaped, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are verdant and smooth, with a metallic luster, and it both likes light and is extremely shade-tolerant, young trees in pots are high-grade foliage plants.
Radermachera sinica prefers a high-temperature and high-humidity environment and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering, and other methods. Sandy loam is best for cultivation. It can be grown in full sun or semi-shade. The optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C. It is suitable to carry out a pruning and shaping before spring sprouting. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, water should also be frequently sprayed on the leaf surface, and it should be placed in a brightly lit location.
It should be specially pointed out that in winter the greenhouse temperature should be kept not lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage is likely to occur, or even the death of the whole plant; control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, spray water on the plant and the surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.False Aralia
False Aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the Araliaceae family and genus Plerandra. It can reach 3 m in height. Leaves alternate, palmately compound with 7-11 leaflets, shaped like slender fingers, with coarsely serrate leaf margins, arranged radially and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, and the leaves have a coppery metallic luster. When it grows above 2 m, the fine leaves will become broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. It is suitable for placement in relatively spacious conference halls, restaurants, and other relatively bright places, and can also be used as a decoration for the entrance halls of hotels and buildings, rich in southern charm. For the specific measures of cultivation and management, they are described separately as follows:
1. It likes humus loam, preferably culture soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half a month.
2. It likes brightness and avoids exposure to the sun. The optimum growth temperature is about 20-28°C. When air humidity is high, growth is more robust. In summer, if outdoors, it must be shaded 50%. Indoor temperature is generally kept at 20°C to 30°C. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. If below 8°C, it is susceptible to freezing damage.
3. It requires moist potting soil, and avoids dryness as well as waterlogging. If too dry, the leaf tips are likely to wither. Frequently spray the leaf surface and around the plant to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible; cold and wet conditions easily lead to leaf drop.
4. For plants that grow too weakly and slenderly, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base. If the upper branches dry up, heavy pruning is also appropriate to promote the growth of branches and leaves.
5. It is mostly propagated by cuttings. From May to June each year, cut one-year-old lignified branches and insert them in a 20°C environment; they can take root and survive in about 30 days. It can also be propagated by sowing, but seeds are not easy to obtain and must be kept fresh.
6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years. After changing the soil, the branches should be pruned. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vigor declines, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, and then sufficient fertilizer should be given to promote the sprouting of new branches and leaves, making the tree shape more beautiful.Monstera deliciosa
Monstera deliciosa, also known as Penglai banana and wire orchid, is an evergreen large vine of the Araceae family and genus Monstera.
Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It likes warmth, shade, and humidity, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-drained soil.
Morphological characteristics: The vines of Monstera deliciosa can reach more than 10 meters. The stem is thick, and aerial roots can reach 1-2 meters, growing horizontally, slender and columnar, brown. When young, the leaves are heart-shaped and without holes; after growing up, they become pinnately deeply lobed, with perforations between the veins, leathery, and drooping.
Propagation techniques: Monstera deliciosa is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be separated from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May. Cut the scions from the tip of the stem nodes, each section with 2-3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert them with leaves or without leaves into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity. After rooting, transplant them into pots.
Management techniques: For potted Monstera deliciosa, leaf mold is best. During the growing period, water should be sufficient. When potting and repotting, leave a rim 5-6 cm deep to facilitate more watering. The culture soil must often be kept moist, watering once every 2-3 days; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface to keep the air humid. Grasp the watering principle of better wet than dry, so as to facilitate the growth of branches and leaves and make the leaves bright. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce the amount of watering. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still be kept relatively humid. Spray water on the leaf surface every 7-10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera deliciosa relatively likes fertilizer. To make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading, with semi-shade being best. Avoid strong direct sunlight, especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise it is easy to cause leaf scorching and burning, affecting ornamental value.
For large pots, use 1 wooden stick 1.3-1.5 meters long, insert it into the pot, and plant the Monstera deliciosa, first to prevent lodging, and second to attach to the stake and grow luxuriantly. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stems for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter, it needs to be placed indoors at above 10°C, but at least maintain a temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will be frozen and scorched, and the potting soil should preferably be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera deliciosa often develops brown spot disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled in time by spraying 50% thiophanate and 75% chlorothalonil at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim at 800-1000 times dilution. In summer and winter, when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often occur on the back of the stems, sucking sap and eating tender leaves. They can be caught manually or brushed off, and it is best to spray 40% omethoate emulsion at 1500 times dilution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution, or 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill them.
Monstera deliciosa is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for a long time for care, but during the growing period it is best placed in a ventilated spot near a window indoors to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected. The newly grown leaves will be thinner, pale, and lusterless, reducing ornamental value.
Keeping Monstera deliciosa at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly planted in small and medium pots and placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms, and studies. It can also be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, halls, and indoors, or by garden ponds and under large trees, giving a considerable tropical flavor. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage material. Monstera deliciosa has been introduced and cultivated relatively widely in China. The beautiful, peculiar, and varied Monstera deliciosa is a famous indoor potted foliage plant and is very popular. Monstera deliciosa is famous for its shade tolerance and is suitable for display and embellishment in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south, it is often planted scattered in courtyards, beside park ponds, streams and ditches, beside rocks, and in stone crevices. The holes and notches on the leaves of Monstera deliciosa have both emptiness and substance, novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hang at the mouth of the pot, simple and elegant.Guzmania
Also known as star bromeliad. Perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown width can reach 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a slightly loose rosette. The flower scape often rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster. The flower scape, bracts, and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very colorful; between the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering period is spring; although the true flowers open for a relatively short time, the colored flower scape and bracts remain for a very long time, and the ornamental period can be about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright diffused light indoors, and can be placed by a bright window for year-round appreciation. If the light is too dark, it is not easy to bloom. There are “Red Star” Guzmania, “Torch” Guzmania, and “Dennis” Guzmania.
Temperature: Normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; during flower forcing, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.
Light: Likes bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, with about 50% shading; no shading in winter.
Water: Often keep water in the leaf cup, replacing it once every 2 weeks; water when the surface of the potting soil dries 1 cm; irrigate with soft water or rainwater.
Air humidity: Frequently spray water on the leaf surface and around the plant; foliar fertilization can be done by spraying.
Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the plant has grown very dense.
Propagation: When the offshoots at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in peat soil without fertilizer. Keep slightly moist, and they can take root in about one month.Chamaedorea seifrizii
[Aliases] Hawaii palm, Seifriz's bamboo palm, bamboo-stemmed parlour palm
[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity, is shade-tolerant, fears direct sunlight, and can tolerate short-term low temperatures of 1-2 degrees
[Soil] For potting, use loose, well-aerated, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus.
[Temperature and environment] This species likes high-temperature and high-humidity environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter, keeping the temperature above 10 degrees allows normal growth, and it can also tolerate short-term low temperatures of 0 degrees. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for a relatively long time in a dim indoor environment. However, bright diffused light is beneficial for growth. Avoid strong direct sunlight, otherwise the leaf color will fade or turn yellow.
[Watering and fertilizing] During the growing period, the potting soil should often be kept moist. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaf surface to increase the ambient air humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth and can keep the leaf surface deep green and glossy; in late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering and keep the potting soil moist to enhance the plant's cold resistance and overwintering ability. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and deep green leaf color.
[Pest and disease control] Under high-temperature and high-humidity conditions, this species may develop brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying carbendazim or thiophanate at 1000 times dilution.
[Economic value] This species has stems like emerald bamboo, dense branches and leaves, and deep green, glossy leaves. Its pinnae are elegant, giving people a sense of uprightness, refinement, lightness, and delicate beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted appreciation.Black Bean
Original name: Castanospermum australe
Other names: Australian chestnut, green ingot, pistachio
Scientific name: Castanospermum australe
Origin of the name: It is called green ingot because its seeds resemble the shape of a sycee, so this name was chosen to invite good luck.
Distribution: Native to Australia
Family and genus: One account says Fabaceae; another says Leguminosae, Castanospermum
Form: Belongs to medium-sized trees, with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets. The leaf shape is lanceolate-oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire, leathery. The pods are up to 20 cm long, and the seeds (that is, the green ingots) are oval, as large as eggs, and can be roasted for eating.
Uses: Young plants of Castanospermum australe can be used as small potted plants and as indoor plants; mature plants can grow to more than 12 meters and are suitable as courtyard ornamental plants or street trees.
Sunlight: Young plants are shade-tolerant, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants require sufficient sunlight.
Management: It likes high temperatures, and the most suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees.
The ornamental appeal of the Malabar chestnut seedling lies in its swollen basal seed ball and the sprouts that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; be careful not to splash muddy water when watering daily, and keep the surface of the pot level.
Water: It is suitable for planting in loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. Avoid prolonged moisture in winter.
Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2 to 3 months during the growing season.
Propagation: Propagated by sowing seeds; spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons.Cyclamen
Cyclamen: Also known as bunny ear flower, radish begonia, etc. Its scientific name is Cyclamen Persicum. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae, with unusual flower shapes. The leaves emerge from the top of the tuber and are heart-shaped, ovate or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations along the leaf margins; the leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, the leaf underside is green or purple, and the petioles are relatively long, reddish-brown and fleshy. The flowers are borne singly at the top of the flower stalks, nodding, with the petals rolled backward upward, just like rabbit ears; the flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple red, pale violet and other colors, often with dark red markings at the base; the petal margins vary and may be entire, notched, wrinkled or wavy.
Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast and other places. It prefers a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The optimal growing temperature is 15°C to 20°C. It is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering period. To make the flower buds abundant, give it plenty of sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every week, preferably by watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron, sulfur and other secondary and trace elements), using about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist. Never water heavily; water only when the potting soil has dried. But never let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will injure the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will make it difficult to recover. The water temperature should be close to room temperature when watering.
Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, thin them appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is more abundant. When removing leaves or spent flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.
When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form flower buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period shortens; above 28°C the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flowerpot on a radiator.Umbrella tree
The umbrella tree is also called Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian ivy palm, and commonly known as money tree. It is a woody foliage plant of the genus Schefflera in the family Araliaceae.
The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches. The young stems are green and gradually become woody; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are long elliptical, with obtuse tips and short abrupt points, and obtuse bases; the leaf margins are wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short hairs, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless. The leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, with a deep green and glossy upper surface and a light green underside, and reddish-brown petioles. The inflorescence is umbellate, with small white flowers borne terminally, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely bloom.
The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in the tropical regions of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid and well-ventilated environments. It likes sun and also tolerates shade, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn, and generally cutting is combined with shaping; cut the branches of a plant with an irregular shape from 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface, so that the mother stem sprouts several branches and a good tree shape is cultivated. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem sections 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, and insert them into a cutting bed of river sand or perlite, maintaining a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and taking care to shade them. Generally they can root in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.
For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growing season, with a relatively large amount of growth. Generally fertilize once a month, while keeping the soil moist and ensuring sufficient water, and frequently spray the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, never expose it to direct sunlight, and take care to shade appropriately, generally 30-40% shading, so that strong sun does not cause the leaves to lose their gloss or become scorched and yellow. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce watering and control fertilizing; in late autumn, foliar fertilization may be applied by spraying 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to promote the aging of branches and leaves and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity in greenhouses and indoors with poor ventilation, anthracnose or damage by scale insects and red spiders may occur, so observe carefully and control them promptly.
The umbrella tree has broad, soft, drooping leaves shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves layer upon layer, with an elegant plant shape, a light posture that is not thin, and a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and easy to manage and maintain, and can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting rooms, living rooms, corridors and passageways, and is also a fairly ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies and bedrooms.Greater periwinkle
Scientific name: Vinca major
Aliases: twining periwinkle, periwinkle
Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca
Native to the Mediterranean coast, India and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Taiwan, China. It is an evergreen trailing subshrub, growing in clumps. The vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. The flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. The leaves are opposite, elliptical, with acute tips, green and glossy; the petioles on the flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margins, petioles, calyx and throat of the corolla. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils of the flowering branches, with a salverform corolla, blue, 5-lobed. The fruits are paired and upright. The flowering period is April to May. The cultivated variety variegated greater periwinkle, Variegata, has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.
Greater periwinkle prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environment. It is highly adaptable and grows rapidly, with growth peaks from June to August and in October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best especially in a semi-shaded environment.
Greater periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, and it roots easily. When taking cuttings, cut semi-lignified stems with 3-4 nodes as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand soil during cutting, and the soil should be pressed and firmed, and watered promptly to keep it moist. Generally after 1-2 weeks they can root and sprout. When the plants grow to 20-30 cm, they can be transplanted. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in severe winter. In addition, during the growing season, densely growing clumping plants can be divided along the rhizome for propagation by division.
Greater periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam. For potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be used as the substrate. Multiple plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and pinching should be done in a timely manner, so that it can quickly take shape. To promote more branching, pinching can be done several times during the growing season, and mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote the growth of runners. Because it grows quickly, it should be watered thoroughly during the growing season, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of the branches and vines and a rich, glossy green leaf color. It is suitable for a bright environment. But in midsummer, avoid direct strong light to prevent scorching the leaves; appropriate shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although greater periwinkle prefers warmth during growth, it is also cold-tolerant, and in winter it can tolerate low temperatures of around 0°C.
Greater periwinkle is an excellent groundcover material and can be planted in masses at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and on slopes, helping to conserve soil and water.