Can Umbrella Plant Take Full Sun? Detailed Guide to Cutting Propagation
Umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius) is an excellent garden ornamental plant, not only beautiful but also air-purifying. Can umbrella plant take full sun? How to propagate by cuttings: Can umbrella plant take full sun: It actually quite likes light, so we can grow it in a spot with good sunlight. Generally, the morning sunlight is quite good.
Umbrella plant is an excellent garden ornamental plant, not only beautiful but also air-purifying. Can umbrella plant take full sun? How to propagate by cuttings:
Can umbrella plant take full sun:
It actually quite likes light, so we can grow it in a spot with good sunlight.
Generally, the morning sunlight is quite good, and you can place it in the sun to enjoy it, but at midday it is best not to let it be in direct sunlight, because the sun is relatively harsh at that time, so we can put it in a bright spot indoors, or take certain measures to shade part of the sunlight for it. This plant can be grown both in water and in soil, but when growing it in water, you need to note that exposing it to sun also speeds up water evaporation, so you need to replenish water in time to meet its growth needs. At different stages of its growth, we cannot give it the same amount of sunlight; we should give it different durations of light according to its specific growth stage.
For example, during the seedling stage, we can only let it bask in sunlight before 9:30 in the morning or after 3:30, otherwise it will become very fragile. During the growth period, we can let it receive sunlight except at noon, which can speed up its growth.
In addition, in winter it should also be placed in a sunny spot. Around Grain Rain, it is best to let it stay in a place that is sheltered from the wind and can still receive sunlight.
How to propagate umbrella plant by cuttings:
1. Soil cuttings
There are two ways to take cuttings, one of which is soil cuttings. As the name suggests, this operation is carried out in soil.
The part we need to select is the stem with bracts. Perhaps some people are not clear about this; in plain terms, it is the topmost part of the most robust branch before flowering, more precisely the top 3 cm to 5 cm long section of this part.
Cut off part of its whorled leaves, because this can reduce water evaporation. Then what we need to do is insert it into the soil. There are particular requirements for this soil; we need to mix some sand and gravel into it.
2. Water cuttings
The second method is water cuttings, which means inserting it into water for cultivation.
The water used here also has particular requirements. We had best use cooled boiled water, and the bottle holding this water needs to have a wide mouth. We still need to choose a stem with bracts, but we need to cut an 8 cm section of its umbrella-shaped upper part. Each bract needs to be cut off by half, and then it is inserted directly into the water.
We need to keep the temperature at 25°C, and the time required is 20 days. If water cuttings are done in summer, then the water needs to be changed every two or three days. This can resist bacteria, so its roots will not rot because of this.
Umbrella plant can take full sun, no problem.
Taiwan Bamboo Cyperus alternifolius Taiwan Bamboo Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Taiwan Bamboo / How to Propagate Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo ProfileTaiwan Bamboo Cyperus alternifolius
Taiwan Bamboo Cultivation Methods and Precautions Introduction to Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo is a perennial herb of the genus Cyperus in the family Cyperaceae. Its upright, slender stems bear leaf-like involucral bracts clustered at the stem, arranged in a radial pattern, with an elegant and graceful posture that carries the charm of green bamboo, so it is very popular and is often used for potted display or as cut foliage for flower arrangements.
Taiwan Bamboo is propagated by division and cuttings. It likes warm, humid, and well-ventilated environments. For pot cultivation, garden soil can be used as the substrate; it does not need to be too rich. The pot should not be too large; a shallow bonsai pot is better for planting. After planting, it can be managed simply and extensively. Provide shade in summer, bring it indoors for warmth in winter, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 7°C. Give it plenty of water normally, and it is better to keep it wet than dry. Apply a thin fertilizer once each in spring and autumn to keep the leaves bright green. Stems that are too old should be cut off as early as possible to allow renewal. Repot and change the soil once every two years.
Morphological Characteristics of Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo is a perennial evergreen herb, with a blocky and short thick underground stem. Stems grow in clusters from the underground stem, with a slightly triangular cross-section, hollow, 50-100 cm long. Leaves are reduced to sheath-like forms, wrapping around the base of the stem. The inflorescence is borne at the top of the stem, with 10-20 involucral bracts arranged in a wheel-like pattern. The bracts are narrowly sword-shaped to linear, with acuminate and downward-curving tips, each 10-20 cm long and 0.6-1.0 cm wide, with an irregular flowering period.
Taiwan Bamboo is also known by other names such as umbrella plant, umbrella sedge, windmill grass, and water bamboo. It is a perennial herb of the genus Cyperus in the family Cyperaceae. Its upright, slender stems bear leaf-like involucral bracts clustered at the stem, arranged in a radial pattern, with an elegant and graceful posture that carries the charm of green bamboo, so it is very popular and is often used for potted display or as cut foliage for flower arrangements.
Taiwan Bamboo is a perennial wetland and emergent plant, 40-160 cm tall. The culms are thick and strong, growing upright, nearly cylindrical, clustered, rougher in the upper part, and wrapped in brown leaf sheaths in the lower part. The leaf-like bracts are very prominent, about 20 in number, nearly equal in length, more than twice as long as the inflorescence, 2-11 mm wide. The leaf-like bracts are arranged spirally at the top of the culm, spreading out in all directions and expanding in an umbrella shape. It has a cyme with many radiating branches, and each radiating branch tip often has 4-10 secondary branches; there are many spikelets densely borne at the tips of the secondary branches. The spikelets are elliptical or oblong-lanceolate, flattened, 3-8 mm long, with 6 to many florets.
Taiwan Bamboo flowers are bisexual, without hypogynous bristles. The scales are arranged in two rows, ovate-lanceolate, with acuminate tips, about 2 mm long, with rusty-colored spots. The anthers have bristle-like appendages at the tip, and there are 3 styles. The fruit is a small nutlet, elliptical and nearly triangular, about 1 mm long. The fruit matures from September to October, and the flowering and fruiting period is summer and autumn. Dwarf umbrella plant is low-growing, 20-25 cm tall, with an umbrella-shaped involucre. Silver umbrella plant has white lines on the culms and leaves, appearing alternately white and green.
Ecological Habits of Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo likes warm, humid, well-ventilated, and adequately lit environments. It tolerates partial shade and is very cold-tolerant. In East China, it can overwinter outdoors with slight protection. It has no strict requirements for soil, and fertile, slightly clayey soil is suitable.
Taiwan Bamboo likes warm, humid, and well-ventilated environments. It fears cold and dislikes blazing sun. It is extremely shade-tolerant and moisture-tolerant, and can be maintained indoors in all four seasons. It likes warm, humid, and shaded environmental conditions and fears exposure to strong sunlight. It has no strict requirements for soil and is suitable for moist, loose soil. It is not drought-tolerant and not cold-tolerant.
Taiwan Bamboo likes warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environments. It has strong adaptability and no strict soil requirements; fertile soil with strong water retention is most suitable. It can also grow well in swampy areas and long-term waterlogged land. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C. It is not cold-tolerant, and the indoor temperature in winter should be maintained at 5-10°C.
Cultivation Techniques of Taiwan Bamboo Cultivation Points
Taiwan Bamboo fears cold in winter and blazing sun in summer, and is extremely shade-tolerant. Before Frost's Descent, it should be moved indoors for warmth and maintenance; if frostbitten, the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases it will die. In East China, around Qingming it can be moved outdoors to a semi-shaded or shaded place for maintenance. In summer and autumn, strong light must be prevented, otherwise the leaf tips will wither and scorch, affecting growth. Taiwan Bamboo has strong growth vigor. Spring, summer, and autumn are its peak growth seasons, during which new tender shoots continuously emerge from the rhizome, like small bamboo shoots, full of vitality. At this time, if stems or leaf tips are found to be withered and yellow, the scorched parts should be cut off in time to maintain its appearance.
Potted Maintenance
Normally, the pot soil should maintain a certain humidity; if the pot soil is too dry, the leaves easily turn yellow and withered. It does not have high fertilizer requirements. Generally, in the growing seasons of spring and summer, applying a thin nitrogen-based topdressing 1-2 times is enough, and then Taiwan Bamboo can grow with green branches and lush leaves. It can also be grown and maintained in water. Generally, light-colored pots are better; if there is no pot, a bowl can be used instead. Place some stones or yellow sand in the pot or bowl as a substrate to fix the plant, then add water until the roots are submerged. Do not change the water every day. Change it when the water becomes cloudy; generally change the water about once every 7 days. During the growing season, add 0.1%-0.2% compound fertilizer each time the water is changed, and the effect will be even better. Do not apply organic fertilizers. Because after adding organic fertilizers, the water quality will become cloudy and easily cause root rot. Do not let the water run out normally, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and die. In winter, as long as the temperature is not lower than 15°C, it can still grow normally; when the temperature is lower than 10°C, water-cultured plants should be taken out and placed in a dry place to avoid cold damage. Stems damaged by cold should be cut off in time, and new shoots can still sprout in the following spring.
When potting Taiwan Bamboo, ordinary garden soil plus a small amount of base fertilizer is sufficient. During the growing season, keep the soil moist, or plant it directly into a watertight pot and keep about 5 cm of water in the pot, which can save the trouble of watering every day. During the peak growth season, fertilize 1-2 times per month. To control height, in May, irrigate once with 400 ppm paclobutrazol, which can effectively control excessive growth. This plant has a wide adaptability to light and can grow well in full sun or partial shade, but placing it in partial shade in summer is more beneficial to its growth and can keep the leaves tender green and not old.
Hydroponic Method
Based on the characteristic that Taiwan Bamboo can grow both in water and on land, if a rectangular watertight flowerpot is used, arranged with several clumps of umbrella flowers at different heights, leaving the water surface exposed and dotted with a few ornamental stones, it can form a natural waterscape, with sparse shadows slanting across, pleasing scenery, and a unique charm.
Taiwan Bamboo is commonly propagated by division and cuttings, and can also be grown from seed. Cuttings are carried out from June to July, and robust branches selected before flowering root most easily. Take 3-5 cm of the stem tip, and cut the whorled leaves by half to reduce water evaporation, then insert into sand or vermiculite, making the leaves lie flat on the substrate. Water thoroughly, then keep the substrate moist, and roots can form in 20 days. Division can be carried out throughout the year, but it is most suitable when repotting in mid-to-late March. Sowing in April also easily germinates into seedlings.
Cultivation
For pot cultivation, choose a deep pot with a diameter of 30-40 cm, apply base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot, add culture soil, dig a hole in the middle and plant, and after planting keep the pot moist or with shallow water. It can also be grown as a submerged pot plant, immersing the potted seedling in a shallow water pond for cultivation; during the peak period, the water depth should be 15-20 cm above the pot surface. When potting seedlings, first place a 2-2 cm thick layer of coarse substrate or ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, then cover with another layer of substrate about 1-2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid burning the roots. After potting, water once thoroughly and place it in a shaded environment for maintenance.
Management
Taiwan Bamboo likes shade and moisture. Newly potted plants are in the seedling recovery stage and should be placed under a shade shed to recover, keeping the soil moist. During the growing period, apply a thin cake fertilizer solution or sesame residue water once every 10-15 days. Along with topdressing, promptly remove weeds in the pot and cut off yellow leaves to maintain a beautiful plant shape. In hot, high-temperature seasons, keep the pot full of water and avoid direct strong sunlight. Before the Beginning of Winter, move it into a greenhouse to overwinter; at this time, appropriately control water and give slight light. After the plant has grown for 1-2 years, when the culms are dense and the root system fills the pot, it should be divided and repotted in time.
Soilless Cultivation
Taiwan Bamboo likes warm, humid, ventilated, and shady environments. It is relatively easy to manage and simple to propagate, among which root-cutting and division planting is the easiest to survive. The soilless cultivation method for Taiwan Bamboo is introduced as follows: Place the plant into a watertight pot (a deep-mouthed pot is better), fill the pot with washed stones or coarse sand, pebbles, etc., and press down the root system. The amount of filler should be enough to ensure the plant does not shake and does not fall over in the water.
Once Taiwan Bamboo is potted, it must be watered immediately, to the extent that the pot is filled without overflowing. It is best to use rainwater, snow water, river water, and pond water; tap water should be left to stand for one or two days before use. Frequently top up the pot with water, preferably using a watering can to spray from top to bottom, so that the leaves are dust-free, fresh, green, and glossy. In spring, autumn, and winter, change the water once or twice a month; in summer, due to temperature, it can be changed once every 4 to 6 days. When changing the water, care should be taken to rinse the root mucus clean, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death. For fertilization, a nutrient-rich fertilizer tablet solution can be used; urea or compound fertilizer can also be used. Fertilize once each before flowering in summer and before dormancy in winter, one or two tablets each time, dissolved and applied into the pot. Note that fertilizer should be dilute rather than concentrated to prevent fertilizer damage.
Taiwan Bamboo is relatively shade-tolerant and can often be placed indoors for viewing, but it should avoid ventilation openings to prevent the plant from being blown over by wind. In summer, when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaf surface to maintain a certain humidity. In winter, move it to a warm, sunny place indoors; the room temperature should not be lower than 5°C, and corresponding humidity should be maintained. Frequently spray the leaf surface with warm water (15°C to 20°C) to keep the leaves dust-free and facilitate photosynthesis. When a cold wave comes, take cold protection measures and pay attention to keeping it warm so the plant avoids cold damage and overwinters safely. Around Grain Rain in spring, it can be placed outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny place for maintenance. Normally spray the leaves with warm water frequently, and add enough water to the pot to prevent drying from wind, which can lead to water deficiency and death. In addition, prune appropriately, cutting off dead branches and residual leaves to promote new shoot growth. If the plant becomes crowded, it can be divided.
The soilless cultivation of Taiwan Bamboo is simple and easy to carry out, clean and hygienic, and especially has the ornamental effect of both potted plants and bonsai. If placed in places such as the living room or desk, it can be said to have a unique elegance and is an ideal indoor ornamental item.
Planting Methods
Taiwan Bamboo is commonly propagated by division and cuttings, and can also be grown from seed. Cuttings are carried out from June to July, and robust branches selected before flowering root most easily. Take 3-5 cm of the stem tip, and cut the whorled leaves by half to reduce water evaporation, then insert into sand or vermiculite, making the leaves lie flat on the substrate. Water thoroughly, then keep the substrate moist, and roots can form in 20 days. The root system is fine, and root-cutting division propagation can be used. Division can be carried out throughout the year, but it is most suitable when repotting in mid-to-late March. Sowing in April also easily germinates into seedlings. Taiwan Bamboo has many propagation methods, including sowing, division, and cuttings.
Cuttings can be divided into two types: soil cuttings and water cuttings. Soil cuttings are generally carried out in the summer growing season. Cut from 5 cm to 6 cm below the umbrella-shaped bracts at the top of the stem, cut off the tips of the bracts, leaving 3 cm to 4 cm long, trim into a leaf disc with a diameter of 6 cm to 8 cm, then insert the flower stem into a pot or sand bed filled with sand, making the leaf disc closely adhere to the sand surface. Place in a cool place, maintain air and pot soil humidity, and after more than 20 days Taiwan Bamboo begins to take root and grow new shoots, and sprouts small plantlets. For water cuttings, use a washed wide-mouthed bottle filled with cooled boiled water, cut from 8 cm below the umbrella-shaped bracts at the top of the stem, cut each bract by 1/2, and insert it into the wide-mouthed bottle filled with water. The water temperature is 25°C. Afterward, new shoots are produced in the leaf axils and grow upward, and fibrous roots extend into the water. After more than 20 days, they can become seedlings for transplanting. When doing water cuttings in summer, change the cooled boiled water once every 2 to 3 days to prevent the cuttings from being contaminated by bacteria and rotting.
Division is best carried out when repotting from March to April. Take the over-dense mother plant out of the pot, divide it into several clumps, pot them separately, and plant them as they are divided; they survive very easily. Generally, after potting, it is already a complete foliage plant.
For sowing, generally collect seeds when they mature from September to October, place them in a cool place to air-dry, and then store them. From March to April of the following year, use the broadcast sowing method to scatter the seeds into a pot with culture soil, press flat, cover with a thin layer of soil, soak with enough water, then cover with glass and keep the pot soil moist. After 10 days, Taiwan Bamboo germinates one after another, and when the seedlings are 5 cm tall, they can be moved into small pots.
Soilless Cultivation
Root-cutting division can be carried out in all three seasons: spring, summer, and autumn. When dividing, dig the plant out of the pot, cut open the rhizome with a sharp knife, wash away the old soil between the roots with clean water, then cut off the old decayed fibrous roots, place it into a watertight pot, and then fill the pot with washed white stones, coarse sand or Yuhua stones, and pebbles, covering the plant roots. The covering material should be based on covering the root zone and should not be too little. At the same time, some mountain stones, coral, or other bonsai decorative accessories can be placed on top of the covering material, which can not only prevent the plant from falling over but also add scenery to the pot.
Maintenance
Taiwan Bamboo grows relatively fast and is easy to cultivate. It can even grow very well when water submerges the pot soil, and it can also grow in water, hence it is called Taiwan Bamboo. In the high-temperature summer season, maintain relatively high air humidity and moist pot soil, avoid direct strong light, and apply thin liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. In winter, the room temperature should not be lower than 5°C. If fertilizer and water are insufficient, the plant is crowded, the temperature is too low, or the pot soil is dry, the stems and leaves will turn yellow and wither.
In spring, summer, and autumn, water cultivation is better; in winter, it can be changed to pot cultivation. In summer, evaporation is greater, so pay attention to topping up. When potting, keep the soil moist during the growing season, or plant directly into a watertight pot and keep about 5 cm of water in the pot, which can save the trouble of watering every day. During the peak growth season, fertilize 1-2 times per month. To control height, in May, irrigate once with 400 ppm paclobutrazol, which can effectively control excessive growth. This plant has a wide adaptability to light and can grow well in full sun or partial shade, but placing it in partial shade in summer is more beneficial to its growth and can keep the leaves tender green and not old.
Water, change the water, and keep the water quality free from pollution. Autumn is dry, so prevent it from being blown over by wind. You can frequently spray the leaf surface, and let it receive night dew at night. Taiwan Bamboo does not need much fertilizer; just dissolve one or two fertilizer tablets in water and pour it on. In winter, it is best to change from water cultivation to pot cultivation. Vermiculite, river sand, or loose culture soil can all be used. Maintain a certain humidity, prune appropriately, and place it in a warm, sunny place indoors. It can overwinter safely as long as the temperature is not lower than 5°C.
Taiwan Bamboo has relatively high requirements for water. It is best to use mineral water and purified water, and tap water comes second, but it must be left to settle before use. The water surface should contact 3 cm above the upper part of the roots; do not submerge too much, so as not to cause root rot and affect respiration. If the stem part rots, the rotten part must be cut off in time to prevent the rotten part from expanding. It is best to cut from the bamboo node. Generally, once Taiwan Bamboo has taken root, it is not prone to rotting. If rotting occurs, in addition to cutting off the rotten part, you can also put some Lianglübao in the water to promote rooting. Change the water once every half month.
Taiwan Bamboo is easy to grow and does not require much management. As long as it has a certain amount of light every day, good air circulation, and frequent watering, it can grow thick, lush, and green. It looks elegant and generous, giving people a beautiful enjoyment. Taiwan Bamboo does not have strict soil requirements. Grown in garden soil, it always grows upright and graceful for more than ten years; sometimes when the seedlings are weak, a small amount of human urine or chemical fertilizer diluted with water can be used to water it. Water cultivation can be done in a narcissus pot, mountain stone pot, glass container, or ceramic pot. Plant the plant into the pot, fill with coarse river sand, white stones, Yuhua stones, or pebbles, choosing any one, then pour in water (river water or rainwater is best; settled tap water can also be used). Small decorative items such as mini rockeries can also be added to enhance its appearance.
Taiwan Bamboo Cultivation Methods Humidity
It likes a highly humid climate environment and requires the relative air humidity of the growing environment to be 75-85%. When the relative air humidity is too low, the lower leaves turn yellow and the upper leaf tips dry up.
Temperature
Taiwan Bamboo is distributed in the evergreen broad-leaved forests of Jiangxi, Zhejiang, Fujian, Hunan, Guangxi, Guangdong, and other provinces between east longitude 105-120 and north latitude 21-29. The most suitable annual average temperature is 18-26°C; its cold resistance is weak, and the extreme minimum temperature is -7°C, otherwise it is prone to low-temperature damage.
The optimum growth temperature is 18°C-30°C. It is averse to cold and frost. The overwintering temperature needs to be maintained above 10°C. When the winter temperature drops below 4°C, it enters a dormant state. If the ambient temperature approaches 0°C, it will die from frostbite.
In Summer
1. Strengthen air convection so that the internal temperature of the plant can dissipate;
2. Place it in partial shade, or provide it with 50% shade;
3. Spray it appropriately, 2-4 times a day.
In Winter
1. Move it indoors to a bright place for maintenance;
2. Outdoors, it can be wrapped with plastic film to overwinter, but every two days at noon when the temperature is relatively high, the film should be opened to let it breathe;
Light
Taiwan Bamboo is a shade-tolerant tree species, often scattered in the evergreen broad-leaved forests of the hilly low mountains of southeastern subtropical China. It grows 5-6 times faster on shady slopes than on sunny slopes. On sunny slopes with strong sunlight, the root crown may suffer sunscald or die. Annual light of 500-800 hours is sufficient, and natural regeneration under the forest canopy is good.
It fears direct strong light and needs to be placed in partial shade for maintenance, or given 70% shade. For indoor maintenance, place it in a bright place as much as possible, and every one or two months move it outdoors to a semi-shaded or shaded place for maintenance for one month, so that it can accumulate nutrients and recover its growth.
Fertilizer and Water
It has high requirements for fertilizer and water, but it most fears indiscriminate fertilization, concentrated fertilizer, and one-sided application of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. It is required to follow the fertilization (water) principle of "dilute fertilizer applied frequently, small amounts with more applications, and complete nutrition":
Spring, summer, and autumn: These two seasons are its peak growth seasons. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clear water - "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clear water (at least two "Huabao" applications per week are required). The interval period is approximately: 1-3 days for outdoor maintenance; the interval is shorter on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures; 2-4 days for indoor maintenance; the interval is shorter on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures. Watering should be arranged as much as possible in the morning when the temperature is lower. In summer, water in the morning or evening when the temperature is low, and also frequently spray the plant.
Winter: During the winter dormant period, the main work is to control fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - clear water - clear water - "Huabao" - clear water - clear water. The interval period is approximately 7-10 days; the interval is shorter on sunny days or during high temperatures, and longer or no watering on rainy days or during low temperatures. Watering should be arranged as much as possible at noon on sunny days when the temperature is relatively high.
Soil
Taiwan Bamboo has strict soil requirements. Deep, loose, moist, humus-rich, acidic sandy loam to light clay developed from parent rocks such as sandstone, granite, and metamorphic rock is more suitable. It likes mountain yellow soil and brown forest soil, and grows most rapidly in sandy loam. It grows extremely slowly on barren soil. Limestone land is not suitable for cultivation, and cultivation in low-lying waterlogged land also grows poorly. Taiwan Bamboo grows slowly in the initial period, gradually accelerates after 4-5 years, reaches a tree height of 5 m and a DBH of 8-10 cm at 6-10 years, begins flowering and fruiting after about 10 years of growth, and a 15-year-old plant can produce about 5-15 kg per fruiting plant, and at 40 years it can reach as high as 500-650 kg.
Rainfall
Taiwan Bamboo grows well in areas with an average rainfall of 1200-1800 mm. When the rainfall is below 800 mm, it grows poorly. It likes humid but non-waterlogged zones.
Propagation Methods of Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo is commonly propagated by division and cuttings, and can also be grown from seed. Cuttings are carried out from June to July, and robust branches selected before flowering root most easily. Take 3-5 cm of the stem tip, and cut the whorled leaves by half to reduce water evaporation, then insert into sand or vermiculite, making the leaves lie flat on the substrate. Water thoroughly, then keep the substrate moist, and roots can form in 20 days. Division can be carried out throughout the year, but it is most suitable when repotting in mid-to-late March. Sowing in April also easily germinates into seedlings.
Home cultivation mostly uses division propagation. In spring, divide and cut open the old clumps when repotting, and pot each clump with 2-3 stems. After new stems grow out, the old stems can be cut off. Seed propagation is also very easy; seeds that fall off can reproduce on their own.
(1) Sowing Method
In summer, after the small white flowers at the top of the leaves finish blooming, seeds form. In autumn, after the seeds mature, collect them. In the following spring, broadcast sow them in a pot filled with river sand. About one month after sowing, they germinate and take root, sending out new shoots. By summer, they can be transplanted and repotted for maintenance. They can also be propagated by sowing in autumn; however, they cannot be potted for maintenance in the same year.
(2) Cutting Method
Generally in the summer growing season, cut off a top bud with leaves, cut the leaves short to 2-3 cm long, insert into a pot filled with river sand, often maintain a certain humidity, and place it in a ventilated shady place outdoors, or cover with a curtain. After about 30 days, new leaves begin to grow from the roots. When branches appear, they can be divided and potted.
(3) Division Method
The division method is relatively simple and easy to survive, and can be carried out in all four seasons. Whether water-cultured or soil-cultured, as long as the plant grows too densely, this method can be used for propagation.
Sexual Reproduction
That is, seed propagation
From March to April, take out the seeds and evenly broadcast sow them in a shallow pot with culture soil. After sowing, cover with soil and level it, soak thoroughly, cover with glass, and keep the temperature between 20-25°C. They germinate in 10-20 days. Sowing is often carried out in summer: soak the seeds in warm hot water (temperature similar to face-washing water) for 3-10 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be omitted. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, dip one end of a toothpick in water, stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, cover with 1 cm of substrate, then place the sowing pot into water with a depth of 1/2-2/3 of the pot height, and let the water slowly soak up (this method is called the "pot immersion method");
For larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 3 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness of 2-3 times the size of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate. Later, when the pot soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds up;
Management after sowing: After the seedlings emerge after sowing, uncover the film in time, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weakly; after most seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain space between each other; when most seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted into pots.
Asexual Reproduction
(1) Division Propagation
This can be carried out when repotting from April to May. Cut the old clumps into several small clumps with a sharp knife as propagation material. Cuttings can be carried out in all four seasons. Cut robust terminal bud stem sections 3-5 cm long, trim the umbrella-shaped leaves slightly, insert into sand, making the umbrella-shaped leaves lie flat and closely adhere to the sand and soil, keep the cutting bed moist and the air humid, with a room temperature of 20-25°C as suitable. After about 20 days, many small umbrella-shaped bract clusters and adventitious roots will emerge among the involucral bracts. Water cuttings of umbrella-shaped leaves for seedling cultivation can also produce a large number of plants.
(2) Cutting Propagation
Taiwan Bamboo cuttings can be carried out in all four seasons. Cut robust terminal bud stem sections 3-5 cm long, trim the umbrella-shaped leaves (bracts) slightly, insert into sand, making the umbrella-shaped leaves lie flat and closely adhere to the sand and soil, keep the cutting bed moist and the air humid, with a room temperature of 20-25°C as suitable. After about 20 d, many small umbrella-shaped bract clusters and adventitious roots will emerge among the involucral bracts. Water cuttings of umbrella-shaped leaves for seedling cultivation can also produce a large number of plants. In addition to sand, the commonly used cutting substrate also includes the most common garden soil. In production, clear water is also used as a cutting substrate, and the cutting effect is also relatively ideal. At the same time, the cutting method can also be reversed from conventional operation, that is, inverted cuttings.
Disease and Pest Control of Taiwan Bamboo
Taiwan Bamboo commonly suffers from leaf blight and red spider mite damage. For leaf blight, spray with 50% thiophanate-methyl 1000x solution; for red spider mite, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500x solution.
Taiwan Bamboo Variety Classification Species under the Genus
1. Water Bamboo: Phyllostachys heteroclada Oliver in Hook. Icon. Pl.23: pl.2288. 1894; Z.
2. Water Bamboo: f. heteroclada (see morphological characteristic description)
3. Solid Bamboo (form) Wood Bamboo (Flora of Jiangsu): f. solida (S. L. Chen) Z. P. Wang et Z. H. Yu in Act. Phytotax. Sin. 18(2):
4. Solid Bamboo: The difference from the original form is that the culm wall is particularly thick, and in thinner culms it is solid or nearly solid. The internodes in the upper part of the culm are also often more or less flattened on the side opposite the branches, so that they are slightly square. The 1 or 2 internodes at the base or lower part are sometimes extremely shortened and abacus-bead-like. It is produced in Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, and Hunan provinces. Its habitat is the same as Water Bamboo. It is cultivated in the United States. The type specimen was collected from the United States. The culm wood of this form is hard and suitable for building melon sheds and bean trellises; the shoots are edible.
5. Lizhu Bamboo (form): f. purpurata (McClure) Wen in Bull.Bot. Res.2(1): 78. 1982. --P.
6. Lizhu Bamboo: This form can be distinguished from the original form by its purple-red culm sheaths. It is produced in Guangdong. The type specimen was collected from a cultivated type bamboo clump in the bamboo garden of Sun Yat-sen University (formerly Lingnan University).
Related Species
Phyllostachys atrovaginata C. S. Chao et H. Y. Chou
Phyllostachys aurita J. L. Lu
Phyllostachys heteroclada Oliver
Phyllostachys lofushanensis Z. P. Wang et al.
Phyllostachys nidularia Munro
Anji golden bamboo Phyllostachys parvifolia C. D. Chu et H. Y. Chou
Phyllostachys rivalis H. R. Zhao
Phyllostachys rubicunda Wen
Phyllostachys stimulosa H. R. Zhao
Phyllostachys veitchiana Rendle
Distribution range of Taiwan bamboo
Taiwan bamboo is native to the West Indies and other places; Taiwan bamboo is native to India and Indonesia. It is cultivated in all provinces north and south of China, widely distributed south of the Yangtze River basin, and grows wild throughout the mountainous areas of eastern Hubei. Taiwan bamboo is widely distributed in swamps at the edges of large lakes and rivers in forest and grassland regions. Farmers in counties along the river often plant it beside their homes; it is especially abundant in Qichun, Huangmei, Xishui and other counties, and is often used for potted ornamental display or as cut foliage for flower arrangements.
Uses and functions of Taiwan bamboo
Taiwan bamboo is valuable in every part; it is not only one of the industrial raw materials but also has a wide range of uses. The bamboo shoots are fresh and sweet; bamboo woven utensils and handicrafts are beautiful and durable; after burning, bamboo oil and bamboo charcoal can be produced. Bamboo oil has a rich fragrance and can be used as an ingredient in cosmetics and so on. Bamboo charcoal is used for heating, blacksmithing and building coatings. Taiwan bamboo also has many medicinal values. Taiwan bamboo timber has good toughness; the culms of cultivated Taiwan bamboo are thick and straight with relatively flat nodes, making it suitable for weaving various household and production utensils. The famous Hunan Yiyang Taiwan bamboo mat is woven from this species as the material; the shoots are used for food.
Potted plant function
Taiwan bamboo has a distinctive plant form, with stems resembling bamboo and leaves shaped like an umbrella. When potted alone and placed on a windowsill, a shelf or a writing desk in the study, it appears elegant and graceful, full of charm. New leaves begin to grow from the right root portion, and when branches appear, it can be divided and potted up.
Ornamental value
If it is combined with small landscape stones to make a bonsai and arranged in an indoor environment, it carries an even stronger flavor of mountain forest scenery. The stem of Taiwan bamboo is upright and slender, and the leaf-like spathes cluster on the stem in a radial pattern, with a free and elegant posture that does not lack the charm of green bamboo; therefore it is very popular and is often used for potted ornamental display or as cut foliage for flower arrangements.
Taiwan bamboo is easy to manage and easy to grow; it can be grown in water or in pots, is clean and elegant, noble and free-spirited, and has the bearing of a bonsai.
It is suitable for display on a desk or table; if matched with rockery and ornamental stones to make a small bonsai, it has a natural scenic charm. When planted outdoors in the south, it is suitable for embellishing streamsides, rockeries and stone crevices. Taiwan bamboo has upright stems and luxuriant leaves, with distinct layers, elegant and natural, evergreen all year round; it is an excellent item for indoor display and also a good material for cut flowers. Therefore it is deeply favored by bonsai enthusiasts.
It can be grown in soil in a flowerpot, or grown in water in a water-filled container. For the water-growing method, lake water, river water, well water, rainwater, or tap water that has been left to settle for 24 hours can be used; electrolyzed ion water with acidic water is best, and mineral water should be avoided. Several colored glass balls or pebbles can be placed in the bottle to stabilize the center of gravity and increase its beauty.
Cut flower material
The branches and leaves of Taiwan bamboo are also a foil material for flower arrangements.
Environmental protection use
Taiwan bamboo has the value of purifying the environment. After Taiwan bamboo was cultivated in domestic sewage for 10 d, the removal rates of TN, TP, COD and BOD in the sewage reached 91%, 92%, 70% and 73% respectively, among which the uptake of N and P by Taiwan bamboo accounted for 55% and 53% of the purification amount respectively. The subsurface-flow constructed wetland planted with Umbrella plant had removal rates of TN, TP, COD and BOD of 64%, 47%, 74% and 74% respectively; compared with a constructed wetland without plants, the removal rates of TN, TP, COD and BOD increased by 28%, 19%, 14% and 13% respectively.
Use value
It can be used to make summer sleeping mats. Taiwan bamboo is fine in texture, prefers shade and coolness, loves moisture, and has particularly good water absorption, so the bamboo body is cool. After being split into strips and woven into a mat, it still maintains its original characteristics and strengths. When a person lies on a Taiwan bamboo summer mat, sweat is absorbed by the bamboo strips, body temperature drops accordingly, and one feels a gentle breeze rising from the mat; as sweat seeps into the bamboo strips, they become even more moist and cool. Therefore, a Taiwan bamboo summer mat used for many years has even better heat dissipation and sweat absorption, becoming cooler the longer you sleep on it. Taiwan bamboo can also be used as a puzzle, cut into different shapes and arranged into different patterns. In addition, the juice squeezed from Taiwan bamboo leaves can be used as a light green dye for painting.
Dietary therapy or medicinal value of Taiwan bamboo
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Hugarden are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower care mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow medical advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Edible value
The shoots of Taiwan bamboo can provide daily food.
Landscape use of Taiwan bamboo
In garden waterscapes, Taiwan bamboo is often planted near water and is commonly used as a focal point material for waterscapes.
Taiwan bamboo has dense clumps and peculiar leaf shapes; it is a good indoor foliage plant. Besides potted ornamental display, it is also a material for making bonsai, and can also be hydroponically grown or used as cut flower material. In the Jiangnan area, where there is no frost period, it can be cultivated outdoors, and is often arranged to embellish the gaps of rockeries by stream banks, with a unique natural scenic charm; however, special attention should be paid to the lighting conditions of the planting site, and the ecological habits of the plant should be considered as much as possible, choosing a shaded side for planting and viewing.
Cultural background of Taiwan bamboo: classical poetry
Inscription on Bamboo - Tang: Li Qunyu
A hundred mu hold autumn green, a dense wind through a hundred thousand poles.
Its breath blows summer away, its sound sweeps the blue sky cold.
Water Bamboo Pavilion - Song dynasty: Song Wuji
A pool of clear water and several stalks of bamboo, enough for a person to plan and compose verses.
Now I have no vulgar matters after official duties, so I may as well take guests along for a while.
Flower language of Taiwan bamboo
Flower language of Taiwan bamboo: tenacious vitality, courageous and resilient, upright joints piercing the sky.
Taiwan bamboo pictures
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
61.Where to place small and medium-sized foliage plants indoors？Generally, plants below 1 m are called small and medium-sized foliage plants; the small and medium-sized ones mentioned here do not include hanging foliage plants.
Small and medium-sized foliage plants, compared with large plants, are much richer in both variety and color. They mainly include: various ferns, Peperomia, Acalypha wilkesiana, poinsettia, Clivia, Begonia semperflorens, Coleus, Pilea, Dieffenbachia, Anthurium, Caladium, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, Echeveria, Crassula portulacea, Gynura aurantiaca, Sedum spectabile, Aloe, Syngonium, Asparagus cochinchinensis, bromeliads, Maranta, Sansevieria, etc.
For these plants, according to their ecological conditions and the size and shape of the plants, they can be placed on windowsills, flower stands, tea tables, writing desks and other places. The number placed should not be too many, otherwise it gives people a dazzling feeling. In young people's rooms, more brightly colored plants can be placed, such as Coleus, Caladium and Gynura aurantiaca, etc.; in elderly people's rooms, plants with relatively fresh and elegant tones are mostly chosen, such as Syngonium, Philodendron, Peperomia, etc. If in a room where children are active, placing a pot of Mimosa can better satisfy children's innocent and curious psychology and, intentionally or unintentionally, increase children's knowledge. However, note that the sap of Dieffenbachia has a certain toxicity and should not be placed where children can touch it.
62.What is the relationship between flower growth and environmental conditions？
Most amateur flower-growing enthusiasts treat their flowers as their own treasures and care for them meticulously. Although they are all growing flowers, some grow flowers that are lush and full of blooms, while others often fail to bloom or end up killing the plants. So people say that growing flowers requires "flower qi." In fact, the so-called "flower qi" is the environmental conditions suitable for flower growth. These environmental conditions include 6 aspects: temperature, light, moisture, air, soil and fertilizer. Each kind of flower has its own unique requirements for these environmental conditions. Only by understanding their habits and trying to create an artificial, suitable micro-environment according to the temperature, humidity, light and other conditions of their place of origin can the various organs of the flowers grow and develop healthily and greet visitors with graceful posture.
63.How can flowers be grown well？
The factors for growing flowers well are many-sided, especially growing potted flowers well on a home balcony, which involves even more aspects. To grow flowers well, at the very least one must have the following three aspects of basic knowledge.
(1) Understand the functions of the various organs of flowers and trees. Flowers and trees generally have 6 kinds of organs: roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits and seeds. Roots can fix the flowers and trees in the soil and absorb water and nutrients from the soil. Stems can support leaves, flowers and fruits, and conduct the water and nutrients absorbed from the roots and the organic nutrients made by the leaves. Leaves can make organic nutrients and also carry out respiration and transpiration. Although the functions of these three organs, roots, stems and leaves, are different, they are related to the nutrition of flowers and trees, so they are all vegetative organs.
After flowers and trees grow and mature, they bloom; after the flowers fade, they bear fruit, and the fruit contains seeds. Mature seeds fall into a suitable environment and grow into new flower and tree bodies. Flowers, fruits and seeds are all related to reproducing offspring, so they are all reproductive organs.
(2) Understand the growth habits of flowers and trees. Some flowers and trees like sunlight, some tolerate shade; some like warmth, some tolerate cold; some are afraid of cold, some are afraid of heat; some like sunlight in winter but need shading in summer; generally flowers and trees like loose soil, while a few like heavy clay soil; some flowers and trees have strict requirements for soil pH, while others do not; generally flowers like fertilizer, while a few flowers do not like fertilizer.
(3) Understand what characteristics the climate, soil and other conditions of the places of origin of various flowers and trees have. What influence do these characteristics have on their growth habits? How were they introduced? What changes occurred after introduction? Once these situations are clear, one can choose flowers and trees suitable for the local area to plant, and can also artificially create for different flowers and trees a special microclimate environment and soil type that meets their needs. In this way, one will not plant jasmine at a shaded window or plant hosta on a sunny balcony. Otherwise, even if the flower grower exerts all his heart and blood, he still cannot grow the flowers well.
Once the functions of the various organs of flowers and trees are clear, and their growth habits and their relationship with external environmental conditions are understood, one can plant according to their laws and achieve the expected goal of growing the flowers well.
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
64.Which foliage plants are most afraid of low temperatures？
Many plants can only live in medium-temperature or high-temperature environments; they are least able to endure low temperatures, otherwise they will suffer various kinds of cold damage, or even die. Therefore, special attention should be paid during cultivation.The optimum growth temperature for Alocasia lowii is 20--30°C, and the winter room temperature cannot be lower than 18°C; Codiaeum variegatum will shed leaves when exposed to cold; ferns are also afraid of low temperatures, but among them Adiantum can endure a temperature of 10°C; Maranta plants are the most afraid of low temperatures. If the ambient temperature is below 15°C, the leaves will curl, shrink, turn yellow and even fall off, among which Maranta roseopicta and Maranta leuconeura require even higher temperatures; Syngonium, Golden Pothos and others grow poorly when the temperature is below 10°C for a short period, and may even develop yellow leaves and leaf drop; Peperomia species will suffer cold damage below 10°C, and black spots often appear on the leaves. In addition, Philodendron, Fittonia and others are also afraid of cold environments.
Therefore, if the indoor temperature in winter is often or occasionally below 15°C, then you must be very careful when choosing foliage plants.
65.What requirements do flowers have for light？
The growth and development of flowers have two aspects of requirements for light, namely the intensity of light and the length of time.Flowers are usually divided into two categories: sun-loving and shade-loving. Those that need to be cultivated in light to grow well, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, chrysanthemum, narcissus, Scutellaria barbata, Oxalis, lotus, etc., are sun-loving flowers. If these flowers are placed in a shaded environment where light intensity is insufficient, they often produce slender branches, elongated internodes, thinner leaves and poor leaf color, and are also more susceptible to pests and diseases. Shade-loving flowers refer to flowers originally growing on shady slopes or in relatively shaded and humid forest environments; most do not like direct strong light, especially in high-temperature seasons when they need varying degrees of shading, and attention should be paid to appropriately increasing air humidity. Shade-loving flowers include Begonia semperflorens, Adiantum, Impatiens, Asparagus setaceus, Fuchsia, orchid, Clivia, rhododendron, Monstera deliciosa, Rohdea japonica, etc.
66.What should be done when indoor light is insufficient when cultivating foliage plants？
Plants placed indoors cannot receive the most ideal light due to the limitations of sunlight exposure. However, artificial methods can be used to make up for the lack of light.
If the daytime light period is too short, fluorescent lamps or incandescent lamps can be used every evening to increase light for several hours; the light they emit can also enable plants to carry out photosynthesis. However, the light intensity is limited, so place the fluorescent lamp or incandescent lamp close to 30-40 cm from the plant. For example, African violet needs sufficient sunlight; placing it under a desk lamp indoors every night can make it flourish with abundant flowers and leaves. But even so, this is only about 5%-10% of sunlight.
Some people also place a mirror beside a sunny window to refract light into dark indoor areas, letting plants placed in dark places grow by the refracted light. This can also strengthen the lighting effect.
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
67.Why is watering the key to growing flowers？
A flower proverb says: "Whether it lives or not depends on water; whether it grows or not depends on fertilizer." Watering is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Many beginners at flower growing are mostly puzzled by the question of how much to water: "The book says not too much and not too little, so what counts as neither too much nor too little?" In fact, how much to water first depends on what kind of flower is being grown, whether this flower likes dryness, likes moisture, or is semi-dry. Never treat all flowers the same way: if there are 10 pots of flowers at home, do not water them all together and let them dry together. Water is the source of plant life, but an overly moist soil environment will prevent the root systems of some drought-loving flowers from breathing, and then the roots will rot and die. If the roots die, of course the flowers cannot survive either. Therefore, to grow flowers well, the first step is to find out clearly each flower's water requirements. First it must survive; only then can blooming be discussed.68.How to water potted flowers？
Potted flowers are limited by specific environmental conditions, so the watering operation is not only troublesome but also the key to success or failure. To water just right, one must first understand the natural habits of different varieties of flowers regarding how much water they need at each stage of growth and development; one must also consider whether the weather is cloudy or clear, the temperature and humidity levels, the type of flowerpot, the size of the plant and the texture of the potting soil.Watering potted flowers generally includes the following situations and methods:
(1) Watering. In spring, summer and autumn, water before 10 a.m.; in winter, water at 2 p.m. Ensure the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, slightly higher in winter and slightly lower in summer. However, the temperature difference between water and soil should not exceed about 5°C. The amount of watering should be such that the potting soil is uniformly moist from the surface to the bottom. Watering must avoid "waist watering" (wet on top, dry below) and "pocket water" (water accumulating at the bottom of the pot), and also avoid soil and fertilizer loss through the drainage hole, causing cavities in the center of the pot and seriously affecting the growth and development of potted flowers. When watering, note that drought-loving flowers can have their water amount controlled, keeping the potting soil slightly moist; the surface soil may show a whitish dry layer but must not dry out completely. Moisture-loving flowers should keep the potting soil moist at all times, with no whitish dry layer on the surface soil, but there must be no standing water or prolonged wetness.
(2) Supplementary watering. In dry periods, at 15:00-16:00, check the dryness or moisture of the potting soil and supplement with an appropriate amount of water as needed, to keep the potting soil moist. When the weather changes suddenly and special circumstances require water, watering is not limited by time or frequency.
(3) Liberal watering. During the vigorous growth period of potted flowers, in order to promote shoot growth, plant development, flower forcing and fruit strengthening, the amount of watering can be increased together with topdressing, keeping the surface soil free of a whitish dry layer and the leaves free of wilting.
(4) Restrained watering. During the dormant period or in low-temperature periods, or to control seedling growth, promote flower bud formation, prevent excessive vegetative growth, and correct the phenomena of yellow leaves and bud drop caused by excessive water, the amount of watering should be appropriately controlled, keeping the potting soil merely moist, and combined with loosening the soil to conserve moisture.
(5) Misting. In dry seasons in spring and autumn, in addition to normal watering and supplementary watering, water should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces and around the flower-growing area to increase environmental humidity, prevent young leaves from scorching and flowers from fading early, and keep the plants fresh; especially for southern flowers, even more attention should be paid to environmental humidity. After rain in summer when it suddenly clears, or on stuffy hot evenings, misting should be used to lower the temperature and prevent disease; whenever misting, the leaf surfaces should be sprayed clean to prevent residual water droplets and dust on the leaf surfaces from congealing into stains that are difficult to remove.
69.How to master potted flower watering principles such as "water thoroughly when dry" and "water when dry, stop when wet"？
These watering principles are all summarized according to the water preferences of flowers and trees. For potted flowers such as wintersweet, plum blossom, hydrangea, dahlia and geranium, which like dryness and fear waterlogging, watering should follow the principle of "water thoroughly when dry." Only when the surface of the potting soil is completely dry should you water. "Water thoroughly" means do not give "half watering"; the potting soil should be watered through and moistened from top to bottom. If not watered thoroughly, the root tips cannot absorb water, which affects growth. But watering thoroughly does not mean watering until it leaks; frequent leaking causes excessive loss of fertilizer and also affects growth.For flowers such as rhododendron, camellia, Chinese rose, gardenia, Aglaia odorata, Nandina domestica, hydrangea and Rohdea japonica, which like moisture but cannot tolerate heavy watering, watering should follow the principle of "water when dry, stop when wet": water when the potting soil turns white, and stop once it is moist. Do not wait until the potting soil is completely dry before watering, and do not give heavy watering. The potting soil should be sometimes dry and sometimes wet; it should neither be dry for a long time nor often soaked through, but alternate between dry and wet.
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
70.Why is it difficult for water to seep down when watering potted flowers？
When watering potted flowers, water accumulates on the surface of the potting soil and does not seep down for a long time. There are the following reasons:(1) The potted flower has not been repotted for many years, and the root fibers have filled the pot and formed a dense mass, making it difficult for water to seep down.
(2) The tile over the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot is improperly placed and blocks the hole, or the gravel layer at the bottom of the pot is too thin, or no gravel drainage layer has been placed, so water seepage is poor.
(3) The newly potted soil is clayey soil containing no organic matter or fine sand, so it is very difficult for water to seep through.
In the above situations, loam rich in organic matter should be selected; if it is clay, an appropriate amount of fine sand should be added, and the plant should be repotted, cutting away excessive fibrous roots. Otherwise, over time, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and accumulated water will rot the roots and cause death.
71.How to prune flowers and trees to promote flowering and fruit setting？
When cultivating flowers for flower appreciation or fruit appreciation, the plant form should be graceful, the flowers luxuriant and the leaves abundant, and the fruit plentiful, for seasonal viewing. Therefore, in addition to water and fertilizer management, pruning methods should also be used to regulate the relationship between branch and leaf growth and the development of leaves, flowers and fruits, so as to promote flowering and fruiting. First, consider the number of flowers and fruits and the leaf area, and maintain an appropriate ratio so as to fully carry out photosynthesis and produce enough nutrients to meet the needs of flowering and fruiting. Especially for fruit-viewing plants, even more attention should be paid to retaining enough leaves. The time of flowering and fruiting of flowers and trees varies, so the favorable pruning timing must be grasped. Generally, for those that bloom in early spring, the flower buds are roughly formed on the previous year's branches, so during the winter dormant period, heavy pruning is not suitable; for example, for ornamental peach and plum blossom, only the autumn shoots without flower buds can be cut off, but after flowering, a shaping pruning should be done.For flowers that bloom on current-year branches, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, oleander, poinsettia and kumquat, heavy pruning should be carried out during the winter dormant period to concentrate nutrients and promote the production of more strong branches in the following spring. Some flowers and trees generally do not need frequent pruning, such as rhododendron and camellia; in order to keep the tree shape beautiful and symmetrical, a portion of the branch tips can also be appropriately cut off, but heavy pruning should not be done. Vine flowers generally do not need pruning; only old branches, densely growing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and blind bud branches need to be cut off to maintain ventilation.
There are also flowers such as Hydrangea macrophylla, whose branches and leaves all need to be cut off in winter, so that new shoots sprout from the stem base, promoting flower bud formation and making the plant neat and sturdy. For Hippeastrum, all leaves can be cut off after autumn, and when brought indoors it should be placed in a sunny place with the room temperature kept at about 20°C, and it can bloom around the Spring Festival. For common herbaceous flowers such as Dianthus, after blooming in June, cut off the aboveground parts, and they can bloom another round in autumn.
72.How do balcony potted flowers get through the summer？
From June to August, the temperature gradually rises and there is more rain, which is favorable for the growth of potted flowers, but some flowers and trees cannot tolerate high temperatures and their growth stagnates. Especially on home balconies, the area is small, ventilation is poor and it is prone to heat; in the rainy season the humidity is high and it is stuffy and hot, which easily causes potted flowers to grow poorly or even become diseased and die. Therefore, management should be strengthened in terms of shading, ventilation, water and fertilizer.In mid-to-late May, place bamboo blinds for shade on sunny windowsills, and place shade-loving rhododendron, camellia, orchid, Daphne, hosta and Chloranthus under the bamboo blinds on flower stands for care, and frequently spray leaf water and sprinkle water around the windows to increase air humidity. Sun-loving succulents and jasmine, Aglaia odorata, crape myrtle and pomegranate are still placed on balcony flower stands for cultivation. Chinese rose, gardenia, Begonia semperflorens and geranium also need shading during the hot hours of 12:00-14:00. Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, Cyperus alternifolius and spider plant are placed in ventilated indoor areas, and direct sunlight should be prevented.
During the plum rain season in June, do not let potted flowers be exposed to rain and lose fertilizer. If water accumulates in the pot due to rain, lay the flowerpot on its side to facilitate drainage; otherwise, because too much water suffocates the root system, the roots will rot and the plant will die. When humidity is high and temperature is high, pay attention to observation and strengthen the prevention and control of pests and diseases.
Except for jasmine, Aglaia odorata, crape myrtle and Begonia semperflorens, which can still bloom in the hot season and can continue to be fertilized, other potted flowers should stop being fertilized. For Fuchsia, Lycoris, Cyclamen, geranium, poinsettia, calla lily and Epiphyllum, which are dormant or semi-dormant in summer, fertilization is even more prohibited.
Watering should follow the principle that in the rainy season evaporation is low and the potting soil should be kept on the dry side; as the temperature rises, the amount of watering should also increase, and in high temperatures water thoroughly both morning and evening. Loosen the soil frequently, so that water can seep through easily and the potting soil has good air permeability, which is favorable for plant growth. While watering, also do a good job of sprinkling water around the environment to lower the temperature.
In addition to strengthening environmental ventilation, for potted flowers with luxuriant branches and leaves, some overly dense small branches and leaves should be thinned out to improve ventilation and light transmission for growth, which is also beneficial for the prevention and control of pests and diseases.
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
73.How do foliage plants overwinter？
The most valuable thing about foliage plants is that they can remain evergreen all year round, so they have ornamental effect in all four seasons, but their best ornamental period is the severe winter season when everything is bleak. At this time, outside the window, the cold wind is piercing and everything is desolate; inside the window, patch after patch of emerald green is full of vitality. Therefore, in winter the decorative role of foliage plants is especially important.To help foliage plants overwinter smoothly, first, one must understand and master the ecological habits of the foliage plants being grown. Foliage plants mostly originate from tropical and subtropical regions. If the room can maintain 20--25°C, the plants can grow normally. But if exposed to low temperatures, the plants will suffer cold damage in mild cases and die in severe cases. The day-night temperature difference in the room should be as small as possible; the daytime room temperature should be at least no lower than 18°C, and the nighttime room temperature should be at least no lower than 8°C. If the indoor temperature is within this range, most foliage plants can overwinter safely, such as ivy, Cordyline, spider plant and Dracaena.
In addition, light and the air humidity around the plants are also important factors. In winter, sunlight shines obliquely and the light intensity is half that of summer, so some sun-loving foliage plants should be placed near a sunny south-facing window. Under sufficient light, foliage plants can also keep their branches and leaves green in winter. If light is insufficient, the leaves will become thinner and turn yellow. If the indoor air humidity in winter is below 50%, it will not only affect the growth of the plants and the beauty of the leaves, but may also lead to pests and diseases such as red spider mites.
It is best not to place the plants on the windowsill, where the temperature is low and they may also be attacked by cold wind.
In the interiors of modern buildings, both temperature and light can allow foliage plants to overwinter safely. What needs attention is maintaining indoor humidity.
74.How to make the herbaceous flowers in a flowerbed bloom uniformly？
The basic requirement of a flowerbed is continuous blooming in all four seasons, especially for large flower-cluster flowerbeds. Therefore, for the design of flower-cluster flowerbeds, there should be careful arrangements for the flowering period.To ensure the ornamental effect of flower-cluster flowerbeds, it is not allowed to sow and raise seedlings directly in the flowerbed until they bloom. Because doing so makes it impossible for the seedlings to grow uniformly or for the planting distances to be equal, and it also causes the flowerbed to be occupied by seedling cultivation for a long time with nothing to view. Therefore, the flower seedlings used to arrange flower-cluster flowerbeds should be specially cultivated in a separate flower nursery, that is, through the process of sowing and transplanting; if conditions permit, they can also be potted for care, which is even more reliable. When the flowering period approaches and the buds are about to open, select seedlings that grow well and are uniform in height and transport them together with the pots to the flowerbed, and plant them all in one go with soil according to the specified dimensions. If planting in the ground, the flower seedlings should be transported to the flowerbed with soil balls for planting, which can better ensure uniform plant height and uniform blooming.
The planting distance for flower-cluster flowerbeds is based on the standard that the branches and leaves of the seedlings touch each other and do not expose the soil surface; generally, triangular planting is mostly adopted.
75.What is soilless cultivation and soilless seedling raising？
At present, the vast majority of potted flowers and trees in China are cultivated using soil. That is to say, through the nutrients in the soil, after being absorbed by the roots, the flowers and trees are prompted to grow, bloom and bear fruit. In some foreign countries, materials such as hemp fiber and vermiculite have been used, with liquid fertilizer added, as media for flower cultivation. Now in some areas of China, this soilless cultivation method has also begun to be used.Soilless seedling raising refers to not using soil as the medium for cuttings and other seedling propagation, but using river sand, rice husk ash, vermiculite and water as seedling media; this is called soilless seedling raising. This method is now widely used in various parts of China.
Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part Two)76.How to carry out soilless cultivation？
Not using soil, but instead using other substances to replace soil as a culture medium for potted flower planting, is called soilless cultivation. Although soil is not used, flowers and trees in a myriad of colors can still be cultivated. It has the advantages of retaining water and fertilizer and being convenient to handle, and does not have the disadvantages of mud stains and soil being too heavy, so it is currently favored by people. There are many soilless cultivation methods, but most formulas are rather cumbersome and the raw materials are difficult to gather, so they are not suitable for home flower growing. The following introduces two simple and easy soilless cultivation materials.Sawdust medium. Mix 70% sawdust and 30% poultry manure, or crushed cake fertilizer, evenly, pile them up, add some human excrement and urine, and after full fermentation, it can be used to cultivate flowers and trees. If some coal ball ash is added, the air permeability and water seepage performance will be even better.
Vermiculite medium. Vermiculite is a light-textured mineral, used in industry as a thermal insulation material. Mix vermiculite and fermented horse manure at a ratio of 4:1 and stir evenly, and it can be used as a medium for cultivating flowers and trees. Horse manure is acidic, so it is suitable for cultivating southern flowers and trees that like acidic soil.
These two media are both very loose, both air-permeable and water-permeable, will not harden, and have strong water and fertilizer retention, which is favorable for root growth and development of flowers and trees. When transplanting and repotting, they are easy to handle and will not damage the roots. Because they are light in weight and the raw materials are not difficult to obtain, they are very suitable for home potting.
77.What substrates are commonly used in soilless cultivation？
The cultivation substrate mainly plays the role of fixing the plant, retaining moisture, storing nutrients and increasing air content. After the substrate is selected, attention should be paid to disinfecting the substrate. At home, methods such as pouring hot water, steaming in a pot, or stir-frying in a pot can be used, or it can be sprayed several times with a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution.78.Can flowers be grown indoors without soil?？
Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen) can be grown indoors without soil. It is a perennial evergreen herb with jointed, unbranched stems, which is why it is also called bamboo-joint evergreen. The leaves are ovate or elliptic-ovate, 10-20 cm long and 4-8 cm wide, bright green and growing in clumps. There is also a variety with irregular golden-yellow spots scattered on the leaves; both are excellent foliage plants for indoors.The stems of Aglaonema modestum root very easily. Placed in a bottle of clean water, they not only remain ornamental for a long time but also grow tender roots and become new plants. The sap of its stems and leaves is toxic, so when cutting or dividing plants, never let the sap splash into the mouth or eyes. For potted plants, use fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil; simply avoid scorching sunlight and keep the potting soil moist, and no special care is needed.
79.Can foliage plants grow in water?？
Some foliage plants can also grow fully submerged in water like aquatic plants. For example, Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Spathiphyllum (peace lily), Peperomia (radiator plant group), and Dracaena fragrans (corn plant) can all grow well in water. Planted in transparent glass containers, they produce an unexpectedly ornamental effect.Many foliage plants originate from hot, humid tropical rainforests. They love warm, humid environments and do not adapt to the dry conditions of a home interior. Therefore, some botanists also call this type of plant "amphibious plants that grow on land during the dry season." Growing them in water is thus very natural and perfectly suited to the needs of such plants.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
80.How to use nutrient solution correctly？
The container holding the nutrient solution should be made of ceramic, plastic, or glass. Iron products must not be used, otherwise the nutrient solution will become ineffective. It is best to mix it fresh each time it is used.Spring and summer are the peak growing seasons for plants, when fertilizer requirements are relatively high. Generally, fertilize once every half month. By autumn, the amount of fertilizer should be gradually reduced; watering it on once every 1-2 months is enough. In winter, because of low temperatures, plants enter dormancy and stop growing, so no fertilizer is needed.
However, if the plant has already taken on its desired form, even during the peak growing season it only needs an occasional watering with a small amount of nutrient solution, once every 3-6 months. If fertilized too frequently, the plant will continue growing and thus ruin its original shape.
Because the substrate used in soilless culture contains no nutrients itself, the plant can only rely on nutrient solution watering to supply its growth. Nutrient solution is both scientific and hygienic, and cannot be replaced by other fertilizers.
81.How should flower seeds be collected and stored?？
When collecting seeds from herbaceous flowers, you must first understand the seed's ripening period and degree of maturity. When seeds are ripe, the petals dry up and the seeds are firm and glossy. At the same time, collection must be timely to avoid rotting from rainy weather or scattering and loss. On the same plant, choose seeds from the earliest flowers and earliest-ripening ones to save. If variation is found in flowers or color, collect and sow them separately. The method of collecting flower seeds varies with the type of herbaceous flower. Some can have the entire flower picked, air-dried, and then the seeds taken, such as Celosia (cockscomb) and Salvia splendens (scarlet sage); some can have the fruit rubbed and washed to remove the flesh, then dried in the sun and the seeds cleaned out, such as Solanum integrifolium (pumpkin-on-a-stick) and Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry). There are also seeds whose fruit skin easily splits and scatters after ripening; these should be collected promptly when the fruit changes from green to yellow and the seeds feel loose when touched by hand, such as Impatiens (touch-me-not) and Viola tricolor (pansy).Common methods for storing flower seeds include dry storage, sand storage, and water storage.
Dry storage: Most flower seeds can be dried in the shade, cleaned of debris, and placed in bottles or thick paper bags, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage) and Cyclamen. Keep them in a well-ventilated room, where the room temperature should not fluctuate much (5-10°C).
Sand storage: Bury the collected seeds in moist sand, keeping the soil temperature at 0-5°C. This type of seed has a dormant period under natural conditions. Take them out one month before sowing, such as Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony) and Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony). ⟧18⟧Water storage: Some seeds should be soaked in water after collection, such as Nymphaea (water lily), with the water temperature kept at 5°C.
Water storage: some seeds, after harvesting, should be soaked in water, such as water lilies, with the water temperature required to stay at 5°C.
All types of seeds should not be exposed to the sun; they should be stored in a dark place, with attention to moisture prevention and rodent damage.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
82.Which methods are commonly used for sowing herbaceous flowers?？
The commonly used methods for sowing herbaceous flowers are broadcast sowing, row sowing, and spot sowing.Broadcast sowing: Often used for smaller seeds, such as Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Aster novi-belgii (New York aster), and Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon). Before sowing, first break up the soil finely and level it. After watering thoroughly, wait 1-2 hours, then evenly scatter the seeds over the seedbed or flowerpot and cover with fine soil just until the seeds can no longer be seen. For seedbed sowing, in spring it is best to cover with plastic film and reed blinds; in autumn cover only with reed blinds. Before sowing, water thoroughly; generally no watering is needed before seedlings emerge, and if necessary, use a fine-spouted watering can to spray water. For pot sowing, cover with glass and newspaper to retain moisture and warmth; if necessary, immerse the pot to soak water in, but do not water directly, otherwise the seeds may be washed out or silt up on one side and affect the germination rate. After the young shoots emerge, gradually remove the coverings. For particularly tiny seeds such as Sinningia (gloxinia), Calceolaria (pocketbook plant), and Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), the seeds should be mixed with 3-4 times their volume of fine sand and broadcast in the flowerpot, with no further soil covering needed.
Row sowing: Open shallow furrows in the seedbed or pot soil, sow the seeds into the furrows, and press level. Other management is the same as for broadcast sowing. Row sowing is mostly used for taprooted flowers that are unsuitable for transplanting, such as Papaver rhoeas (corn poppy) and Ipomoea (morning glory).
Spot sowing: Large seeds can be sown one by one, such as Mirabilis jalapa (four o'clock flower) and Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium). The soil covering thickness should be about 3 times the diameter of the seed.
After the seeds germinate, watering should be appropriately reduced to harden the seedlings, and overcrowded seedlings should be thinned in time to maintain ventilation and light. When 2-3 true leaves have grown, transplant them; those tolerant of transplanting can be moved 1-2 more times, such as Callistephus chinensis (China aster) and Impatiens (touch-me-not), and then set out in flowerpots or flowerbeds. Some herbaceous flowers are unsuitable for transplanting, such as Papaver rhoeas (corn poppy) and Quamoclit (cypress vine); it is best not to transplant them.
It is very important to correctly grasp the sowing time for each type of flower. Calceolaria (pocketbook plant) and Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria) grow better when sown in autumn; Zinnia elegans (zinnia) has a relatively long growing period and is suitable for spring sowing.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)83.How to sow seeds when growing flowers at home？
Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (clivia), and annual or biennial herbaceous flowers are propagated by sowing. Choose strong, fresh seeds from superior mother plants. Some seeds need treatment to facilitate germination because their seed coats are hard. For example, the seeds of Nelumbo (lotus) have hard shells, so the top must be ground open until the seed coat appears before sowing; seeds such as Cyclamen, Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), and Wisteria should be soaked for 1-2 days before sowing to promote germination. To prevent the spread of pests and diseases, seeds should be disinfected by soaking for 5 minutes in 0.1% mercuric chloride, 0.3% copper sulfate, or 1% formalin solution, then rinsed clean with water before sowing. As for sowing time, spring sowing should not be earlier than the last frost period; in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, mid-March is suitable, and autumn sowing can be done in September. Since home flower growing uses only a small amount of seed, a sowing pot can be used. If using an ordinary clay pot, the diameter should not be less than 12 cm, as too small a pot dries out easily. The growing medium used for sowing should have good water permeability and should be steam-sterilized in advance. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot by crossing two arched shards over it, then fill with 2-3 cm of crushed stone or gravel, then add 5 cm of growing medium, and finally spread 1 cm of washed river sand on top as the sowing layer. After sowing, cover with fine sand at 2-3 times the diameter of the seeds. Do not water directly; water by the immersion method to avoid washing away the seeds. Cover the pot with a piece of glass, and cover the glass with newspaper to shade light, so as to maintain the temperature and humidity inside the pot. Turn the glass over once a day to allow ventilation and remove water droplets on the glass. Place the sowing pot in a spot with direct sunlight and maintain a room temperature of 15-25°C to favor germination. If the temperature is too high, the seedlings tend to grow leggy; if the temperature is too low, the seeds tend to rot. After the seedlings emerge, remove the glass and newspaper and gradually move them to a place with ample sunlight, water according to the dryness and moisture of the potting soil, and when the seedlings have grown 2-4 true leaves, transplant them
84.What propagation work can be done for flowering shrubs in spring?？
During March-April, before the new buds of flowering shrubs sprout and while the sap is not yet flowing, this is the suitable season for propagation, and the survival rate of propagation is high. For example: Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), and Cymbidium (orchid) can be divided for propagation when repotting in spring. Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant), Nelumbo (lotus), and bamboos can be propagated by cutting off new shoots from their runners. Canna indica (canna), Dahlia pinnata (dahlia), and Iris can be propagated by dividing tuberous roots or tubers that bear buds. Lilium (lily), Gladiolus, and Narcissus can be propagated by taking the small bulbs produced by their bulbs or corms. Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), and Syringa (lilac) can be propagated by grafting their branches. Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle), and Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) can have their branches cut, while Chrysanthemum, Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), and Saxifraga stolonifera (strawberry geranium) can have their leaves cut, for cutting propagation. However, cuttings root easily only when the soil temperature is higher at the end of April. Annual herbaceous flowers such as ornamental pepper, Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Portulaca grandiflora (moss rose), and Callistephus chinensis (China aster) can be propagated by sowing.85.Why do some flowers need asexual propagation?？
Asexual propagation is the use of branches, buds, leaves, root suckers, tubers, bulbs, and so on from the mother plant to propagate through cutting, grafting, layering, division, and other methods, producing new plants.Many flowers cannot set seed because their ovaries have degenerated, such as Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia) and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus). Some flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions also find it very difficult to bloom and fruit in the north, such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Aglaia odorata (mock lime), and Jasminum sambac (jasmine). These flowers therefore require asexual propagation.
Many flowers are superior varieties selected through cross-breeding, and the superior traits of these varieties can usually be preserved only by adopting asexual propagation methods.
Using asexual propagation methods can enhance stress resistance and increase ornamental value. For example, many varieties of Echinopsis (cactus) have relatively weak root systems of their own; when grafted onto the more vigorously growing Acanthocereus tetragonus (triangle cactus), they grow and propagate relatively quickly.
86.What are the benefits of using vermiculite and perlite for cutting propagation of flowering shrubs?？
Vermiculite and perlite were originally lightweight insulating building materials. They have the properties of drainage, warmth retention, moisture retention, many pores, and good aeration, which are exactly the conditions needed for rooting in cutting propagation. Practice has proved that using these materials for cutting propagation of flowering shrubs results in fast rooting, little root damage at potting time, and a high survival rate.When using vermiculite and perlite for cutting propagation of flowers, moisture must be appropriately controlled, avoiding both excessive dryness and excessive wetness. When cutting in summer, shade is needed, and in the north plastic film should be used as a cover.
Using these materials for cutting propagation of flowering shrubs, although rooting is fast, because vermiculite and perlite contain no nutrients, the rooted cuttings should be potted in time after surviving; otherwise the new roots quickly "rust" (that is, turn from white to yellow) and gradually die.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
87.Is there a convenient and easy simple method for small-scale cutting propagation when growing flowers at home?？
To ensure the survival of cuttings, the cutting medium and the air must be kept moist, requiring frequent watering and misting. For small-scale cutting propagation at home, pot cutting can be used, but watering and misting add quite a bit of trouble. Here is an easy and convenient cutting method that does not require frequent watering and misting.Use a large clay pot with a diameter greater than 20 cm. First place a 8 cm layer of small stones at the bottom, then add a layer of coarse sand as a drainage layer. Place a small clay pot with a diameter of about 9 cm in the center of the pot; the drainage hole at the bottom of the small clay pot should first be plugged with a cork. Outside the small clay pot and inside the large clay pot, fill in fine sand, vermiculite, or rice-hull ash and other cutting media, and insert the cuttings in the medium. Then fill the small clay pot with water and put a plastic film bag over the large clay pot, cutting a few small holes in the two upper corners of the bag for ventilation. Because the water in the small clay pot continuously seeps through the pot wall into the surrounding medium, it can keep the cutting medium moist for a long time. And because the mouth of the large clay pot is covered with a plastic film bag, sufficient air humidity is also constantly maintained. This saves the troublesome work of uncovering the bag, watering, and covering the bag to retain moisture every day, while still creating environmental conditions that make it easy for the cuttings to root.
88.Which foliage plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings?？
Leaf cutting is a unique propagation method, and not every kind of plant can be propagated by leaves. The foliage plants that can be propagated by leaf cuttings include: Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella papyrus), Saxifraga stolonifera (strawberry geranium), Saxifraga stolonifera 'Tricolor' (tricolor strawberry geranium), Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Peperomia (radiator plant group, such as Peperomia argyreia, Peperomia obtusifolia, Peperomia clusiifolia, Peperomia glabella, etc.), foliage begonias (such as Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, etc.), Saintpaulia (African violet), Aloe, succulents, and Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii' (variegated snake plant), etc.89.What is layering propagation?？
Bend the lower branches of the mother plant down and bury them in the soil to encourage the adventitious buds at the nodes or internodes to sprout and grow new roots, then cut them away from the mother plant and plant them separately, thereby forming a new plant. This propagation method is called layering propagation.Layering propagation is mostly used for flowering shrubs with strong clumping habits or vines with soft branches. For some tree and shrub species that root with difficulty, the air layering method can also be used to let branches in the crown root before detaching from the mother plant, providing more propagation opportunities for flowering shrubs.
The advantages of layering propagation are that it is easy to succeed, the seedlings form quickly, and the operation is simple and convenient. A living branch that has been layered can be layered again the next year, without wasting propagation material. The disadvantages are that the plant's organism cannot be completely renewed, growth vigor is not strong, and the number of seedlings produced is relatively small, so it is not suitable for use in large-scale seedling production.
90.What is the air layering method?？
For some woody foliage plants, stem-section cuttings root with difficulty; in this case, air layering can be used for propagation. First make a ring of bark removed from the branch, then wrap it with moist sphagnum moss or cotton, and bind it securely with plastic film or string. If the branch is soft, a bamboo stick can be used to support the layer to prevent lodging and breakage. About one month after layering, when roots grow at the ringed bark area, it can be cut off and planted separately. The most suitable time for air layering propagation is between April and August each year. However, do not choose old branches for the part taken for layering; it is best to use one-year-old young branches.The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
91.What causes flower diseases?？
The causes of flower diseases: First, poor cultivation environmental conditions, such as excessive or insufficient water, too strong or too weak light, too high or too low temperature, insufficient or imbalanced nutrition, and diseases caused by smoke, dust, and harmful gas pollution. These are also called physiological diseases. Such diseases affect the growth and development of flowers but are not contagious. Second, infection by pathogens, such as fungi, bacteria, and viruses invading the plant body, among which fungal infections are the most common. Under suitable environmental conditions, such diseases can spread and infect rapidly.For diseases caused by poor environmental conditions, as long as cultivation management is improved in time to meet the requirements of flower growth and development, the plants will generally recover naturally. Diseases caused by pathogen infection, however, must be prevented and controlled in time. But these two types of diseases are also closely related and mutually causal. When flowers are in a weakened state of growth, they are often prone to disease; sometimes when flowers suffer pest damage, it can also lead to the occurrence of disease.
92.What symptoms do physiological diseases of flowers have?？
Diseases caused by unsuitable environmental conditions during the growth and development of flowers are called physiological diseases. Diseases caused by insufficient nutrients mainly include stunting and chlorosis. If a plant lacks nitrogen, its height growth cannot be ensured; if the soil is too alkaline (in the north) or too acidic (in the south), plants become weak and leaves scorch; lack of phosphorus, potassium, and other trace elements can also cause flowers to become chlorotic and withered. Lack of water during the growth and development of flowers can cause withering and stunted growth; too much water obstructs root respiration and causes root rot, and the plant will also turn yellow and wither. Therefore, when leaves turn yellow and wilt, a careful diagnosis should be made before taking measures.
Recommended reading:The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)