In China there is a tradition of loving, planting and appreciating plum blossoms, regarding them as a symbol of uprightness. What to do when sorbaria leaves turn yellow? How to prune:

What to do when sorbaria leaves turn yellow:

1. Sorbaria leaves turning yellow: humidity too low

During the process of growing sorbaria, if the humidity is relatively low, it will cause the leaves to turn yellow and dry out. So at this point you need to raise the air humidity; you can spray water around the plant frequently, or place a few pots of water nearby, both of which can increase air humidity, thereby alleviating the current situation of sorbaria leaves turning yellow and drying out.

2. Sorbaria leaves turning yellow: iron deficiency

Sometimes, when sorbaria lacks iron or other elements, the phenomenon of yellowing leaves appears. This is because the lack of growth elements causes the leaves to lose their green color.

You can place a measured amount of compound fertilizer or minerals in the soil to replenish the various growth elements it has lost and prevent the leaves from turning yellow.

3. Sorbaria leaves turning yellow: overwatering

Overwatering is one of the main causes of sorbaria leaves turning yellow.

When caring for sorbaria in daily life, if you water too much, the soil will become relatively moist, or even be in a waterlogged state, which directly leads to root rot, and further causes the leaves to turn yellow and new leaves to wither and die. This is why the leaves turn yellow.

When watering in daily life, it should be determined according to the plant's growth condition, checking whether the potting soil is dry. Wait until the potting soil is dry before watering; if the potting soil is still relatively moist, you must not water. Watering after the soil is dry will not only reduce the occurrence of root rot and yellow leaves, but also promote good growth of the branches and leaves.

How to prune sorbaria:

1. Pruning the roots

When planting sorbaria, you can appropriately prune the lateral roots, cutting off some excess roots as well as rotten roots and diseased roots, and then plant it. This allows it to grow better.

2. Pruning the branches

When pruning branches, for old perennial plants, heavy pruning can be carried out at 4 or 5 years; the pruning time is generally before spring sprouting, keeping 3 to 5 buds on the branch and cutting off all the rest. In addition, you can also prune after the sorbaria plant has dropped its leaves, cutting off the residual branches, dead branches, diseased branches, etc. Some overly old branches, overly dense branches and leggy branches can all be pruned.

3. Pruning the flower branches

After the sorbaria flowers fade, cutting off the remaining flower branches can reduce the consumption of water and nutrients.

Are you clear about the care of sorbaria?

Anthurium leaves turning yellow, how to grow anthurium, is anthurium toxic, anthurium flower meaning, anthurium hydroponics

Anthurium

Anthurium flower meaning

The flower meaning of anthurium is "great prospects, passion, hot-bloodedness" as well as "happy newlywed, blessed and lucky". The red anthurium represents passionate boldness and enduring love, suitable for giving to passionate and bold friends; two stems imply two hearts beating as one.
When giving such flowers to others, it is not suitable to give a single stem, because it carries the meaning of "one hand cannot clap". It is best to give three, six or nine stems. In addition, white anthurium should not be given to others, because it represents "false affection"; the indigenous people in its place of origin believe that it represents a faded and bleached heart, and does not carry the purity meaning that white flowers often symbolize!

Is anthurium toxic

Anthurium is slightly toxic; you just need to be careful when pruning, wash your hands clean, and not eat it!

How to grow anthurium

Anthurium cultivation methods:
1. Soil: The best potting soil for anthurium is loam rich in humus, loose and well-drained. It is advisable to use 2 parts leaf mold, soil or peat soil, and 1 part perlite or coarse sand to make the potting soil, or use leaf mold (or 1 part peat soil, 1 part garden soil, moss) and 1 part charcoal plus a small amount of superphosphate or bone meal to make the potting soil.
2. Watering: Anthurium likes warmth and moisture, so it needs to be misted on the leaf surface every day. Maintaining humidity is beneficial to leaf growth. Poor drainage or overly wet potting soil easily causes root rot; during the peak growth period, pay attention to keeping the potting soil with sufficient moisture. Watering should alternate between dry and wet; after one watering, wait until the surface of the potting soil looks dry before watering the next time. It likes slightly acidic water, so you can use slightly acidic water with a pH of 4 to 4.5 or water it with rainwater.
3. Sunlight: Anthurium likes semi-shade and fears strong light, so in summer it is advisable to place it indoors by a north-facing window for care; in spring and autumn, place it near a south-facing window; in winter, place it on a south-facing windowsill so that it receives relatively sufficient light, and thus it will grow robustly with green leaves and abundant flowers. If after flowering it can be moved outdoors to a shaded place for cultivation for a period, it will grow even better.

Anthurium hydroponics

1. Root washing and disinfection: Take a small potted plant, rinse off the growing medium with clean water (tap water left to stand for 2 days), and soak it in a 1000 times dilution of potassium permanganate for disinfection for 30 minutes;
2. Soak the roots in IBA rooting agent at 10 mg/L (IBA is "indolebutyric acid", a rooting powder, and for anthurium it is the most effective rooting inducer; sold in flower markets) for 2-3 days; the induction effect is best, with fast rooting, a high rooting rate and long roots.
3. Once the roots are induced, hydroponics can begin; at this time an appropriate nutrient solution should be added. If the nutrient solution is not prepared well, it can also easily cause root rot, blackened roots, yellow leaves, etc. At present, KC nutrient solution is considered a relatively ideal nutrient solution, with MS nutrient solution second.

Anthurium leaves turning yellow

The symptoms of yellowing, drying and rotting in anthurium leaves are caused by bacteria. Spraying chili water cannot cure it; chili water is for preventing and controlling insect pests, not bacterial diseases. To eliminate bacteria, you can spray a 0.3% solution of garlic juice, a 0.2% solution of vinegar, or fungicides such as carbendazim or chlorothalonil at 800-**** times dilution for prevention and control. But this cannot solve the fundamental problem, because the appearance of such symptoms in anthurium is due to an unsuitable care environment. Anthurium should be managed in a semi-shaded, moist and warm environment; the best temperature is between 20-25 degrees C, and it must not be higher than 33 degrees C, otherwise symptoms of discomfort easily appear; air humidity must be between 75-90%, and below 50% the leaves easily show scorched edges and drying. Fertilization also must not be too concentrated; you should water the potting soil with a fully water-soluble fertilizer, and must not apply ordinary chemical fertilizers, because anthurium cannot absorb them and fertilizer burn will occur.

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Grow these flowers like this in summer, and they will grow madly and make your potted plants burst out of the pot!

Although the weather is hot in summer, it is the best growing season for jasmine and pothos. At this time, with a little effort they can burst out of the pot. If you still do not know this, then you have really lost out; you have raised them for more than half a year in vain and they still are not as vigorous as other people's flowers! So let's take a look below at how to make potted plants grow more and more luxuriant!

1. Jasmine

Some flower friends bought jasmine together with a friend, but the friend's has already bloomed a second flush, and with more and more flowers, while yours bloomed once and then went quiet. Hurry and take a look, there is still hope!

1. Jasmine summer pruning:

Prune jasmine in summer, and it can bloom 3-4 times. For jasmine with relatively short branches, after flowering cut off 3-5 cm from the top of the flower branch; for jasmine with relatively long branches, just leave 2-3 pairs of leaves on each branch. After being pruned, jasmine's will to survive greatly increases, and it will once again grow madly and produce flower buds.

2. Jasmine cuttings:

The pruned branches can also be tried as cuttings. The cutting branch should have at least one pair of leaves, and the leaves can be cut in half to conserve nutrients. Use a disposable plastic cup, poke some small holes in the bottom for ventilation, put in some sandy soil, insert the branch about 2-3 cm into the soil, place it in a cool place, and occasionally spray water. Flower friends who are afraid of failure can insert several more branches!

3. Jasmine summer fertilizing:

Besides sufficient sunlight, jasmine flowering also requires adding some organic fertilizer. In summer, put leftover fruit peels, kitchen leftovers, etc. into a plastic bottle with water and ferment them for 20 days, turning them into mature fertilizer water. Watering with diluted fertilizer water twice a month (fertilizer: clean water = 1:500) is enough.

For flower friends who are afraid of the stench of fermented fertilizer, try cutting watermelon rind into small pieces, burying them in the soil, and then sealing and covering them with a plastic bag. In this way they will rot in about 1 month, becoming truly rich fertilized soil; just mix a little into the flower soil!

2. Pothos

In summer you have curtains, while others have pothos curtains; taking a look every day is truly refreshing. It is especially suitable to grow it on a north-facing windowsill, and it can also purify the air!

1. Common problems of pothos in summer:

In summer, drooping pothos leaves mean it is thirsty, and water must be poured to the roots to be absorbed; large areas of yellowing, soft and rotting leaves mean too much water, so quickly control watering and increase ventilation; and if the light is too strong, pothos will turn scorched yellow, so it must be moved to a cool place and the necrotic leaves cut off.

In summer, pothos is best kept indoors; a north-facing windowsill is very suitable, not only because the light is mild, but also because it is ventilated and cool. Hydroponic pothos easily develops dry leaves or rot, all caused by the environment being too dry or too humid, so only by placing it in a good position can there be fewer problems and good growth!

2. Pothos summer fertilizing:

Leftover beer from home, after being left for 1-2 days to let the gas escape, can be mixed with water (beer: water = 1:10) to wipe pothos leaves. You can also add one aspirin or vitamin B12 to the beer water; the nutritional elements in them can make pothos leaves glossy and grow quickly!

3. Pothos cuttings:

Pothos cuttings burst out of the pot faster. Cut off a pothos branch with a bud (node), about 3-8 cm long. Insert it upright in moist sandy soil, keep it moist, and in less than a week it will take root; this kind of pothos easily climbs and vines. Pothos inserted horizontally on the soil surface easily fills the whole pot!

3. Chinese rose

Recently there has been another wave of high temperatures; a few days ago the Jiangnan area was already close to 40 degrees. Flower friends growing Chinese roses at home should be careful: above 36 degrees, Chinese roses are very likely to stop growing and not bloom!

1. Cooling measures for Chinese roses in summer:

If you want Chinese roses to bloom continuously, you must cool them down to prevent them from entering a "comatose" state. Besides shading, you can also place bricks under the pot for insulation, put it inside a larger pot to retain moisture, and wrap it in a layer of aluminum foil for sun protection, so that the Chinese rose is full of life and can bloom no matter how hot the weather is!

2. Chinese rose summer fertilizing:

Chinese roses like light and are generally grown in the open air or on a south balcony. Extremely hot weather is not suitable for adding fish intestines or manure, as these easily burn the roots. You can water with some fermented rice water, milk water, okara water, etc.; all of these must be fermented for 1-2 weeks until mature before use!

3. Chinese rose pruning:

After Chinese roses have bloomed 1-2 times, they easily grow blind branches, which must be pruned off, otherwise the nutrients will be taken away by them! The top of a blind branch has no bud, only a pair of leaves; you must recognize it clearly.

4. Chinese rose cuttings:

When the temperature exceeds 36 degrees, Chinese rose cuttings easily blacken and rot and are not easy to keep alive. Flower friends whose homes are cool can give it a try: the flower branch should be 5-8 cm long, with more than one pair of leaves, using sandy soil as the medium, and it is best placed in a cool place. You can poke holes in a plastic cup to make a moisture-retaining cover!

4. Bougainvillea

Quite a few flower friends' bougainvilleas still have not bloomed yet. While the flowering season is still here, hurry and force them to bloom, otherwise you can only wait until next year for them to bloom!

1. Bougainvillea water control for flowering in summer:

The most effective way to make bougainvillea bloom is water control. First let it go thirsty for a few days; when you see the leaves wilt and droop, wait half a day and then water thoroughly. After that, leave it alone, and wait until it is thirsty and wilting again before watering. Back and forth, in about 20-25 days it will bloom.

If your bougainvillea blooms little and also has yellow leaves, it may be iron deficiency. It is best to water with a ferrous sulfate solution (1:500), or you can also water with fermented fruit peel water or rice water. If you have urea at home, you can also mix in 3-5 granules each time you water.

2. Bougainvillea summer pruning:

Bougainvillea grows too fast in summer and easily becomes leggy, so it must be pruned promptly. Besides pruning off messy long branches, Huahua also wants to introduce a braid pruning method: braid the long branches and prune them, leaving a braid 20-30 cm long; once it blooms there will be a shape.

5. Spider plant

Do not be fooled by the spider plant's quiet appearance; once summer comes it grows madly. Many flower friends' spider plants are frantically producing little pups, looking truly spectacular! At this time some flower friends complain again, why is it that my spider plant just will not grow taller

1. Light, water and fertilizer for spider plants in summer:

Spider plants can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Indoors, place them in a place with good light and water once every 2-3 days; outdoors, water every day, and in the morning you can also spray water around the leaves to increase air humidity.

Besides adding some chicken manure or cow and sheep manure at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer when repotting each year, also water once a month with potassium dihydrogen sulfate, or fry eggshells into powder and mix them into the spider plant's soil. In this way the spider plant frantically produces pups and can also bloom every year!

2. What to do when spider plants produce many pups:

Spider plants produce many pups. If you like the look of them hanging with little pups, you can keep them. If you do not like it, after the little pups grow aerial roots, you can cut them off and plant them; giving them away is also nice, and the survival rate of planting aerial roots is excellent!

6. Snake plant

Snake plants are also very good at purifying air, but many flower friends buy them, put them at home and then ignore them, while also complaining that they grow slowly. In fact, they easily burst out of the pot, and when well grown their formaldehyde-removal effect doubles!

1. Soil and fertilizer for snake plants:

For a snake plant just bought home, it is best to change the soil first. Leaf mold soil, pine needle soil, coal cinder soil are all fine, then mix in some perlite and ordinary garden soil; it has good air permeability and sufficient nutrients. Usually water only after the soil is dry, and it can be grown plump without much care!

If you want snake plants to frantically produce pups, you can also add fertilizer. Put chicken manure or bird droppings in the soil and bury them for about 2 weeks to decompose, then mix the decomposed fertilized soil into the flower pot; this is natural organic fertilizer. If you do not have it, you can also directly add compound fertilizer, which suits the snake plant's comprehensive nutritional needs.

2. Snake plant leaf cuttings to produce pups:

Cut a section of a snake plant leaf and insert it into the soil, place it in a cool and ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and absolutely do not be curious and reach out to move it. Wait quietly for about 1-2 weeks and little pups will emerge. One leaf can produce 3-5 pups, and one pot can become 100 pots!

The above are the summer growing methods for these six kinds of flowers. In summer the weather is hot; keeping a pot of green potted plants indoors can freshen the air and also has ornamental value, but note that potted plants easily attract flies and the like, so be careful in tending them!